Madeira Press Kit - Associação de Promoção da Madeira

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History History and and development: development: development: EMBROIDERY EMBROIDERY Embroidery was brought to the island in the 15 th century by the first colonisers, like other traditions that they had, from the place where they came from. Until the 19 th century no importance was given to the embroidery. Then, in April 1850, there was the Madeira Industry Exhibition where the embroidery was introduced to the public. A year later, it had its first presence in a foreign country, when Madeira was represented in a industry exhibition in London, by invitation of Queen Victory. In 1852, a British resident in Madeira, Miss Elizabeth Phelps, started the business of Embroidery, taking some with her, to present it to her friends when she went to London. Embroidery started to be produced in large scale on the island, due to the demand of the English market and also because of the “oidium” disease that struck the vines, between 1852 and 1862 and decreased the wine exportation. First, the embroidery was sold privately but sooner, two british brothers, Frank and Robert Wilkinson, established themselves in Madeira to start their own business, exporting embroidery on a much larger scale to England. By this time, 1858-1860, over than 1000 women were employed in the industry, especially women from the countryside, the outworkers, to whom the embroidery was a way of being busy when they finished their housekeeping and the work on the land. For these women it was a way of earning money to improve their way of life. Until 1878, the embroidery exportation increased but, in 1880, it suffered a decrease because the English market reached saturation point of this kind of fashion. But it was still very significant the money that the island was profiting, from selling embroidery works to the tourists that visited the island and wanted to take a souvenir for them and their friends. Several embroidery factories established in Funchal, most of them English but, in 1890, the first German embroidery exportation houses, settled down in Funchal. This situation was really good for the embroidery Industry. As the exportation was in a not very good moment due to the lack of embroidery consumption markets, it started to be exported not only to German but also to the United States of America and other countries. The result of this was an increase in the production, a fact that brought benefits not only to the rural economy but also to the region’s economy.
Between 1900 and 1919 the exportations made by Customs were high, showing the importance of this industry to Madeira. In 1906, there were, 30.000 outworkers in Madeira; in 1924, 45.000 and in 1950, 60.000. The First World War, between 1914 and 1918, brought serious problems to embroidery Industry. The German market closed, and in the United States the orders were reduced, what led to a decrease in the production and in the number of outworkers and embroidery houses. After the War, the production started to increase again. In 1923, there were in Funchal, about 100 embroidery houses, with exportations to the United States, England, South Africa, Canada, France, etc. Influences: Influences: Madeira Embroidery, as it is known today, suffered influences not only from several countries such as England, France, Milan and German, but also from different periods such as the Renaissance, Rococo and Baroque. The result of this miscellany was the finest, the beauty and the perfection of these hand-made embroidery works which take many hours of work and dedication. To the different stitches was given a name, such as eyelets, garanitos (small relieves), rosettes, stars, viúvas and cavacas, richelieu stitch, etc. The The feature feature process: process: • The embroidery materials are imported as well as some of its designs and some are made by stylists. • The design is transferred onto the tracing paper and pierced by a “picador”, a machine that makes tiny holes on the paper, along the traced lines of the design. • After, the tracing paper is put on the top of the cloth, ready to be stamped by a cloth soaked in blue dye. The design is in this way transferred to the material (linen, cotton or silk), and sent to embroidereses. • When the outworkers finish it, they are sent back to the factory where the open work flowers and patterns are cut out. • It is then, washed and ironed, ready to carry a seal to prove it is genuine Madeira embroidery.
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Madeira Press Kit - Associação de Promoção da Madeira

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