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The Haynes Welding Manual - VolksPage.Net

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<strong>Welding</strong> with filler rod<br />

Let's say that you need to join two pieces of 1/8-inch-thick metal in a straight<br />

bead from right to left. Position the two pieces such that they are butted together<br />

where they are to be joined, and that you have something blocking or clamping<br />

them in place so they won't move as you weld. Start your weld puddle at the<br />

right end of the seam, and as the puddle develops, use your left hand to insert<br />

the tip of the filler rod into the center of the hot puddle, then pull it out right away.<br />

Set up a rhythm of alternately putting in the rod and taking it out as the bead progresses<br />

to the left. When we describe the puddle, the edge of the puddle closest<br />

to the direction you are traveling is the front edge, while the part of the puddle<br />

you just finished is the rear.<br />

If you have ever done any soldering, you may have a bad habit of heating the<br />

solder with your torch or soldering iron and letting the molten lead drip onto the<br />

joint. This is a bad habit and one you shouldn't bring with you in your welding<br />

practice. <strong>The</strong> molten puddle should melt the filler rod, not the torch. If the rod<br />

sticks, then you are not keeping the puddfe molten enough, or you are adding<br />

filler rod too fast, either of which will result in a low-quality weld.<br />

This skill of making a good bead, with evenly overlapping ovals and good<br />

penetration will take considerable practice, but if you learn two-handed gaswelding<br />

techniques well, any other welding system you pick up later on will be<br />

considerably easier to learn. Most of the welding you will do will be forehand<br />

welding, in which you angle the torch so that the flame is aimed somewhat toward<br />

the direction of the desired weld bead. This preheats the metal as you go<br />

and makes addition of filler rod to the front edge of the puddle easier because it<br />

is truly hot. Sometimes it seems like keeping the proper torch distance, moving<br />

at the right speed, circling or ovaling the tip and dipping the rod in at the right<br />

time is just too much to concentrate on at one time, but you will get the hang of<br />

it. This isn't "brain surgery" and millions have learned before you. After a good<br />

long practice session, begin to examine things around you that are of welded<br />

construction and you'll get an appreciation of the practice it took to lay down<br />

those beautiful beads that look like they were done by some machine instead of<br />

human hands. Indeed there are some kinds of welding that are done with largely<br />

robotic welding machines, but a good weldor can make virtually perfect joints<br />

that are stronger than the parent metal.<br />

We mentioned before that cleanliness is critical in making good welds. <strong>The</strong><br />

two edges to be joined need to be sanded or ground clean to bright metal and<br />

should fit as closely as possible. Small gaps are inevitable<br />

in some kinds of work and can be bridged with filler rod, but<br />

gaps should be kept to a minimum. On thicker materials,<br />

you will find that it is easier to make a clean weld with good<br />

penetration if the edges of the two pieces are beveled before<br />

you weld. This can be done with a file or grinder. Thin<br />

materials have their own idiosyncrasies, mostly to do with<br />

keeping the two edges in alignment. As you progress with<br />

your weld bead, more and more heat travels out into the<br />

parent metal, so that after welding for some distance, the<br />

metal you now encounter is hotter than the metal you<br />

started on, so you may have to adjust the torch away<br />

slightly to compensate for the puddle forming faster.<br />

Another problem with thin materials is that the parent<br />

metal tends to distort with the application of heat. Metal expands<br />

when heated, and two edges that were parallel when<br />

you started welding probably won't stay that way. Usually,<br />

the edges pull away and you have a gap to bridge that wasn't<br />

there when you started. <strong>The</strong> solution is to tack-weld at<br />

intervals before applying too much heat. A tack-weld is<br />

Gas welding/cutting<br />

3.26 When practicing basic butt welds, tack the near corner<br />

first, then tack the top corner with a slight gap between the<br />

parts. This will close up as the plates grow from welding heat.<br />

3-11

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