and more - Viva Lewes

A NIGHT WALK
In the footsteps of Simon de Montfort
Photo: Tim Hurdal
Having previously cycled and run the Downs, this time I’m walking
them, with my partner Shelley at my side. We’re aiming for the site
of the Battle of Lewes, before heading along the ridge and cutting
down through St John (Without) towards Hamsey. We’re following
(in reverse) the route taken by Simon de Montfort’s baronial army
back in May 1264 when they launched a surprise stealth night-time
advance, before routing the King’s army the following day. And for
historical perspective we’re doing so in the dark – without a torch.
We start at the castle and head westwards behind the prison. Even
at 8.45 it’s very dark, but there’s a clear sky and a bright moon so we
press on quite happily. Just above the Nevill estate we’re right on the
site of the battle and it’s an incredibly atmospheric spot. On the eve
of the battle, 746 years ago, we’d have found the advance scouting
parties of De Montfort’s troops, but today it’s just us - and a lot of
strange noises. Lewes, with its still dominating castle, lies below - a
mass of light pollution - but around us it’s dark and disorientating.
Walking in the dark really heightens your senses. I step on a twig
and it sounds like a gunshot. We discuss the possibility of poachers
or kids hunting for rabbits, but rapidly stop worrying about getting
shot and worry instead about the movement on the horizon. We
relax when we realise they’re sheep, but tense up when we discover
we’re in the field with them. Maybe there’s a ram? And why is the
bigger bush the other side of the fence moving? It’s moving because
it’s a cow - or then again, a bull. Every sound is accentuated in the
w w w. V I VA L e w e s . C o M
wA L k I N g
clear night air and every movement
appears to carry a potentially lethal
threat. We’re scared - but only in an
excited ‘adventure’ sort of way.
We walk on, occasionally stopping
to look back at Lewes as we meander
through the night. Apparently over
3,500 troops successfully approached
Lewes this way - and I can see why,
because as we stumble along welltrodden
paths in the darkness, I can
barely see where my feet are going, so
I’m sure I’d have missed them all. After
an hour and a half we reach Black Cap,
and stop for a sip of water and a bite
of an emergency ration peanut butter
roll. To get home we need to find our
way down to the road, and after edging
back down towards Mount Harry we
find a steep path to follow. Near the
bottom, we hear a massive rustling,
and looking up, realise we’ve disturbed
a sleeping rookery, and the noise
they’re making suggests they’re not
pleased. Eventually we’re safely down
and I celebrate by twisting my ankle
in a tractor rut. I certainly wouldn’t
have fancied marching up that hill in
full battle armour. We eventually find
the road - our first two efforts are
blocked by a locked gate and a barn
full of horses - and we’re on the route
back to Lewes through Offham village.
We arrive back in Lewes just before
midnight - over three hours after
leaving - exhilarated by our journey
and proud to march in the (inverse)
footsteps of De Montfort’s troops.
Nick Williams
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