march-2013

ussels airlines’ inflight magazine issue 76 | march 2013
THE FOOD ISSUE
Amuse-bouchons
the joys of nose-to-tail eating in lyon

welcome MAAKT
Cher passager,
EENDRACHT
MACHT
L'UNION FAIT
LA FORCE
Dear Passenger,
We are pleased to announce that following the success of our first transatlantic destination, this
summer we will open our second destination in the United States. As from 18 June, we will fly directly
from Brussels Airport to Washington Dulles five times weekly. Further, thanks to our partnership with
United Airlines, you will be able to fly between Brussels and Washington 12 times weekly, and connect to more
than 40 destinations in the United States and Canada. All our flights to Washington will be flown in A330 aircraft
with our brand new cabin on board offering the highest level of premium comfort and relaxation.
We always aim to serve you the highest quality, and we’re pleased to say that the cuisine on board our long-haul
flights was recently awarded the runner-up position for Best Airline Cuisine by Global Traveler magazine. In
addition, we bring a Belgian touch to all our flights. You’ll find flavours and products from the Belgian kitchen on
board both our long-haul and short-haul flights.
At the end of this month, we will switch to our summer timetable, and we welcome back our summer
destinations to the European network: Catania, Faro, Florence, Lamezia Terme, Naples and Porto. We will also
open a new destination: Palermo in Italy.
We will also continue our successful partnership with the multiple award-winning music festival Tomorrowland
this summer. Last year, we organised a special party flight from Barcelona to Brussels with three DJs on board.
This year, you can look forward to more such fun with a special act on every flight that is filled with Tomorrowland
party-goers.
I wish you a pleasant journey today and look forward to welcoming you back on board another Brussels
Airlines flight.
Bernard Gustin CEO
Nous sommes heureux d’annoncer que suite au succès remporté par notre
première destination transatlantique, nous nous apprêtons à proposer dès
cet été une seconde destination aux États-Unis. À compter du 18 juin, nous
assurerons cinq vols hebdomadaires directs entre Brussels Airport et Washington
Dulles. En outre, grâce à notre partenariat avec United Airlines , vous aurez la
possibilité de voler 12 fois par semaine entre Bruxelles et Washington et de voyager
vers plus de 40 destinations aux États-Unis et au Canada. Tous nos vols pour
Washington seront opérés par des Airbus A330 pourvus de toutes nouvelles cabines
offrant le plus haut niveau de confort et de détente.
Dans notre souci de vous offrir toujours des services de grande qualité, nous
sommes fiers de vous informer que les repas servis sur nos vols long-courriers nous
ont récemment valu une seconde place au classement de Best Airline Cuisine
(meilleure cuisine à bord) du magazine Global Traveler. Par ailleurs, nous mettons un
point d’honneur à ajouter une touche belge à tous nos vols. Vous trouverez ainsi, à
bord de nos vols long-courriers tout comme à bord de nos vols intra-européens, des
saveurs et produits issus de la cuisine belge.
À la fin de ce mois, nous passerons à notre horaire d’été et proposerons à nouveau
sur notre réseau européen : Catane, Faro, Florence, Lamezia Terme, Naples et Porto.
Nous desservirons également une nouvelle destination : Palerme, en Italie.
Cet été, nous poursuivrons notre partenariat fructueux avec le festival de musique
récompensé à de multiples reprises Tomorrowland. L’an dernier, nous avons organisé
un vol spécial entre Barcelone et Bruxelles, avec trois DJ à bord. Cette année, d’autres
belles surprises de ce genre vous attendent, avec un événement spécial sur chacun
de nos vols transportant des fêtards en partance pour Tomorrowland.
Je vous souhaite un agréable voyage aujourd’hui, et me réjouis de vous accueillir à
nouveau à bord d’un vol Brussels Airlines.
Bernard Gustin CEO
BEST SINGLE
ACHIEVEMENT
IN PASSENGER
EXPERIENCE 2012
beste passagier,
Met veel plezier kondigen we aan dat we u vanaf deze zomer een tweede
bestemming in de Verenigde Staten zullen aanbieden, als vervolg op het
succes van onze eerste trans-Atlantische bestemming New York. Vanaf 18
juni vliegen we vijfmaal per week rechtstreeks van Brussels Airport naar Washington
Dulles. Dankzij ons partnerschip met United Airlines kunt u vanaf juni dus 12 keer per
week tussen Brussel en Washington vliegen en doorreizen naar meer dan 40
bestemmingen in de Verenigde Staten en Canada. Al onze vluchten naar Washington
zullen worden uitgevoerd met A330-toestellen die zijn ingericht met onze
gloednieuwe cabine en dus het hoogste niveau van comfort en ontspanning bieden.
Wij streven ernaar u altijd de hoogste kwaliteit te bieden en melden u dan ook
met trots dat de catering aan boord van onze lange afstandsvluchten onlangs werd
bekroond met een tweede plaats voor Best Airline Cuisine door het tijdschrift Global
Traveler. Een Belgische toets op Brussels Airlines vluchten is voor ons een must .
Daarom zult u aan boord van zowel onze lange- als korte afstandsvluchten smaken
en ingrediënten uit de Belgische keuken ontdekken.
Eind deze maand schakelen we over naar onze zomerdienstregeling. We
verwelkomen dan onze zomerbestemmingen terug in het Europese netwerk:
Catanië , Faro, Firenze, Lamezia Terme, Napels en Porto. We bieden ook een nieuwe
bestemming: het Italiaanse Palermo.
Ook zetten we deze zomer onze succesvolle samenwerking voort met het
veelvuldig bekroonde muziekfestival Tomorrowland. Vorig jaar organiseerden we een
speciale partyvlucht van Barcelona naar Brussel met drie dj’s aan boord. Ook dit
jaar mag u weer uitkijken naar zulke initiatieven, met een speciale act op elke vlucht
die gevuld is met Tomorrowland-feestgangers.
Ik wens u vandaag een aangename reis en hoop u binnenkort opnieuw te mogen
verwelkomen aan boord van een vlucht met Brussels Airlines.
Bernard Gustin CEO
BEST
INTERNATIONAL
BUSINESS CLASS
WINE 2012
BEST
SHORT HAUL
AIRLINE
2012
MArch 2013 3

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6
regulars
11 observation deck: lisbon 13 diary
14 barrio: london 16 sleep 19 style
20 Eco 23 design 25 on the road:
malaga 52 Business: urban farms
56 business NEWS 106 sport
mARCH 2013
76
contents
28 44
features
28
35
FR Résumés des articles en français nl Samenvattingen in het Nederlands
going the whole hog cover story
Elizabeth Winding enjoys the robust pleasures of dining at Lyon’s traditional “bouchons”
the willy wonka of bruges
Colourful chef Dominique Persoone tells Emma Beddington why chocolate is his life
the rise of hipster hooch
40 NYC is experiencing an explosion in small-scale artisanal spirit distilling. Joe Warwick tests the best
a taste of africa
A culinary trip around the continent, from smoked catfish in Conakry to roasted bush rat in Benin
44
49
Val thorens: skiing on a gourmet high
Michelin-star restaurants, rustic hillside auberges, exemplary chalet cooking: Val Thorens – who knew?
63 city guides
Get the lowdown on destinations across
the network from local writers
87 airline section
Keep up to date with all the latest news
and information from Brussels Airlines
discover more...Why not check out this issue online at btheremag.com, or download the
b.there magazine app by scanning this code (right) with your iPhone/iPad to take you to the
iTunes App Store. You’ll need a QR reader (barcode scanner), which you can download.
stay connected to brussels airlines Follow @FlyingBrussels on Twitter,
join facebook.com/brusselsairlines or see pinterest.com/flyingbrussels
35
editorial
Editor Jane Wright
jane.wright@ink-global.com
Acting Deputy Editor Elizabeth Winding
elizabeth.winding@ink-global.com
Chief Sub Steve Handley
Sub Editors Alida Campbell (English),
Brigitte Ledune/edito3 (French and Dutch),
Telelingua (Dutch)
art
Art Director Marten Sealby
Designers Colette Fahy; Alan Johnson
Picture Desk Manager Julia Holmes
Picture Editor Alexandra Kelly
Cover Laura Stevens
sales
Publisher Svetlana Sosnina
svetlana.sosnina@ink-global.com, +32 (0)2 808 1576
Advertising Anna Szpunar,
Jonathan Carrillo Saez, David Serra
production
Production Manager Antonia Ferraro
Production Controller Adam Jones
Online Director Sal Lababidi
Digital Development Edward Chamberlin
Print & Logistics Manager Tim Davey
Reprographics Scott Reed/KFR Pre-Press Ltd
for ink
Executive Creative Director
Michael Keating
Editorial Director Andrew Humphreys
Design Director Julia Murray
Publishing Director Simon Leslie
Chief Executive Jeffrey O’Rourke
Chief Operating Officer Hugh Godsal
Commercial Director Kevin Rolfe
b.there magazine is published on behalf of
Brussels Airlines by Ink. All correspondence and
advertising enquiries should be addressed to:
b.there magazine, Ink, 141-143 Shoreditch High St,
London E1 6JE
Tel +44 (0)20 7613 8777 Fax +44 (0)20 7613 8776
Email info@btheremag.com
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All material is strictly copyright and all rights are
reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced
in whole or in part without written permission of the
copyright holder. While every effort is made to ensure all
prices and data are correct at the time of publication,
Brussels Airlines can not be responsible for editorial
errors. Opinions expressed in b.there magazine are not
necessarily those of Brussels Airlines and Brussels
Airlines does not accept responsibility for advertising
content. Any pictures or transparencies supplied are
at the owner’s risk.
for brussels airlines
Publications Director Monica Devi Lim
monicadevi.lim@brusselsairlines.com
b.house, Brussels Airport, Airport bld 26
box 4.7, Ringbaan B-1831 Diegem,Belgium
brusselsairlines.com

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ILLUSTRATION: EMILY ROBERTSON
I
n Lisbon, breakfast is the most
important meal of the day. I like to
stop off at the Confeitaria Nacional
on Praça da Figueira at least once a week for
a treat. All five essential cake groups are here:
creamy, chocolatey, flaky, fruity and doughy.
But even on an empty stomach you have to
remember what each one is called – each cake
is a unique design, with its own name, elevating
bakery into an art form of cultural significance.
This display of excellence is about pride.
Fortunately for visitors to the city, there’s
a lot of hilly walking between breakfast and
lunchtime, because lunch in Lisbon isn’t simply
a sandwich. Like most southern European
countries, Portugal shows its commitment to
food, family and friends by shutting up shop
and sitting down to eat. There is nothing so
important at the office that it can’t wait until
FLY TO lisbon daily. brusselsairlines.com
observation deck: lisbon
everything stops for lunch in lisbon, and rightly so, says Emma Brunton
after lunch. And there it is – the Portuguese
are relaxed and they get their priorities right.
So what are the people of Lisbon eating?
Neither wealthy nor pretentious,
Lisboetas care less for the exotic and more
for flavoursome food in generous proportions.
Eat at Casa da India in Chiado, where you sit
next to complete strangers crowded together
at communal tables. Big plates of grilled
sardines, squid and cuttlefish, chicken and
pork, masses of rice, salad and potatoes
arrive at the table without delay, amid rowdy
conversation and waiters shouting beer orders.
It’s chaotic, cheerful and inclusive.
In Lisbon, dining out is not just about
the food. You go to see the traditional décor
as well. Casa do Alentejo in the Baixa has
two extraordinarily tiled dining rooms and a
fading baroque ballroom with frescos and
chandeliers. Restaurant Trinidade in Bairro
Alto has a long history as a beer hall and is also
fabulously tiled and decorated. You don’t have
to look far for history – it’s there, wherever
you are. Galeto Saldanha is an amazing
example of 1960s interior design, all dramatic
gold bubbles and dark wood.
Portugal’s ego is best detected in Lisbon’s
fine dining. At the lauded XL in São Bento
there’s no snobbery or stiffness. The food is
subtle and defined, trend and gimmick-free.
The wine list too, sums it up. There’s a small
foreign selection, like a nod of recognition, but
the rest is a portfolio of one of the greatest
wine producers in the world: Portugal. The
Portuguese know what they have, and they
don’t need to brag about it.
emmashouseinportugal.com
Next month: Nice
march 2013 11

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diary
elizabeth winding selects the best of this month’s events around the network
Antoine Watteau
Bozar, Brussels, until 12 May, bozar.be
Working in collaboration with the Palace des Beaux-Arts in Lille, Bozar revisits the great 18th-century
French painter. The exhibition examines his works’ musical references – which means that assorted
musical instruments are on display alongside around 100 paintings, drawings and prints.
Armory Arts Week
New York, 5-10 March,
armoryartsweek.com
Showcasing modern and contemporary
art, the Armory Show is New York’s biggest t
art fair. It’s open to the paying public, bar
the invites-only opening night. What’s
more, it brings six days of fringe events,
with open studio events, art tours,
performances, talks and exhibitions
taking place across the city.
Kunstkammer Wien
Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna, khm.at
One of Europe’s most powerful royal dynasties, the
Habsburgs were also inveterate collectors – and
many of their finds ended up in the Kunstkammer
(‘cabinet of curiosities’), which reopens this month
after a decade of renovations. A collection of
priceless objets d’art, natural wonders and outright
oddities, the highlight, perhaps, is Benvenuto Cellini’s
exquisite gold, enamel and ivory Saliera (below),
which elevates the humble salt cellar to an art form.
30% off b.light economy fares* Book 10-31 March
2013; ; travel 19-21 April p
2013; promo code MVIEKUNS
fly to LONDON fOUR times daily; madrid three times daily; vienna three times daily;
NEW YORK JFK DAILY. brusselsairlines.com
David Bowie Is
V&A, London, 23 March-28
July, vam.ac.uk
The iconic musician is given
the ultimate accolade: a
retrospective at the V&A,
exploring his idiosyncratic
style and talent for reinvention.
Poster designs, cover art,
handwritten lyrics, set designs
and costumes all feature.
Legacy of the
House of Alba
CentroCentro, Madrid, until
31 March, centrocentro.org
As one of Spain’s most noble
families, the House of Alba
amassed an extraordinary art
collection – and this is a rare
chance to glimpse 150 of the
finest pieces, including works
by Rubens and Goya (above).
30% off b.light economy
fares* Book 1-21 March 2013;
travel 22-25 March 2013; promo
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march 2013 13

Dissolute, stay-up-late Soho may be best known for its pubs, but it
also has a powerful thirst for coffee. Over the last few years, a wave of
coffee shops have opened up, and you’re never more than one street
away from the next precision-pulled espresso.
In this part of town, there’s a coffee to suit every mood, from a swift
morning takeaway at Fernandez & Wells to an indulgent, gelato-spiked
affogato at Gelupo. And if the caffeine craving strikes late, never fear:
Bar Italia, open since 1949, dispenses coffees around the clock.
1 Speakeasy
Espresso
& Brew Bar
3 Lowndes Court, (0)20 7434
3340, speakeasycoffee.co.uk
This is one for coffee connoisseurs,
who tend to bypass the airy
ground-floor espresso bar in
favour of the basement brew bar,
with its weekly changing coffee
beans and choice of brewing
methods. Thursdays bring free,
drop-in training sessions with
the baristas, from 5-7pm.
barrio: London
There’s a coffee bar on every corner in soho; elizabeth winding samples the best
2 TAP Coffee
193 Wardour Street,
tapcoffee.co.uk
The Probat roasting machine at
the back of TAP testifies to its
commitment to good coffee, while
the spacious, stripped-down
interior is a relief after Oxford
Street’s crowds. In summer, try
the super-strength cold brew
coffee, dispensed in little brown
medicine bottles. There’s no sign
outside, so look out for the number
above the door.
Speakeasy
3 Fernandez
& Wells
Espresso Bar
16A St Anne’s Court,
(0)20 7494 4242,
fernandezandwells.com
Everyone may be serving flat
whites these days, but this is the
only place you’ll find a “stumpy”
(€3/£2.60). It’s a strong, velvety
brew with a shot of milk, served in
a short – hence “stumpy” – glass.
To accompany it, order a creamy,
flaky pastel de nata (Portuguese
custard tart).
4 Milkbar
3 Bateman Street, (0)20 7287
4796, fl atwhitecafe.com
flat white, made from a bespoke
Square Mile Coffee blend: velvety
without being too milky, packing
a punch and adorned with a
perfect foam-froth fern.
5 Yalla Yalla
1 Green’s Court, (0)20 7287
7663, yalla-yalla.co.uk
Better known for its mezze, this
tiny, convivial Lebanese café also
offers cardamom-spiked Arabic
Sister to the more polished Flat coffee, served in a little brass
White on nearby Berwick Street, rakweh pot, and with dainty,
CORBINEAU
Milkbar is smaller, scruffier and (in handleless cups. Time your visit
ANTOINE
our opinion) cooler, with its 1950s- to avoid the lunchtime rush, and
style shopfront and dive-bar décor. nibble on date- or walnut-stuffed
The baristas here serve a textbook ILLUSTRATION:
maamoul cookies.

Yalla Yalla
6 Algerian
Coffee Stores
52 Old Compton Street, (0)20
7437 2480, algcoffee.co.uk
Behind its jaunty red frontage,
the Algerian Coffee Stores is a
coffee emporium par excellence,
stocked with 81 different coffee
beans and 24 flavoured brews.
As regulars know, it also has the
best-value takeaway deal in Soho:
€1.18/£1 for an espresso, be it
double or single.
7 Bar Italia
22 Frith Street, (0)20 7437
4520, baritaliasoho.co.uk
With its whiff of disrepute, iconic
neon signage and night-owl hours
(it closes at 5am, only to re-open
two hours later), Bar Italia is a
Soho institution. Its venerable
Gaggia coffee machine works
through the night, dispensing
potent, bittersweet espresso. It’ll
set you back €2.60/£2.20, though:
all that history comes at a price.
8 Gelupo
7 Archer Street, (0)20 7287
5555, gelupo.co
Specialising in exquisite gelato,
and run by the owners of
acclaimed Italian restaurant
Bocca di Lupo, this is the place
to come for coffee and dessert
in one. Affogato (€3.50/£3) is a
classic – a double espresso with
a scoop of fast-melting hazelnut
gelato – while the caffè allo
zabaglione is a sweet, rich mix of
coffee, beaten egg yolks and sugar.
fly to london four times daily. brusselsairlines.com march 2013 15

16
It was Frederick the Great who built
Sans Souci
the original Sans Souci in Potsdam,
Museumstrasse 1, Vienna
near Berlin – an opulent summer
+43 1 522 2520; hotel-
palace whose name translates as
sanssouci.at
“without worries” or “carefree”.
That, too, is the idea behind Vienna’s
latest hotel, the Sans Souci Wien.
words Adrian Mourby
Opened last December, it sits just
beyond the Ringstrasse, in a neighbourhood nicknamed “Boboville”
in honour of its Bourgeois Bohemian residents.
The block was constructed as a hotel in the 1890s, lost its way in
the 20th century and ended up as offices after World War II. Recently,
a Viennese businessman by the name of Norbert Winkelmayer bought
it up, and encouraged his design team to let their creativity run riot.
It begins with a dazzling foyer of marble and chandeliers, which
gives way to more sober, spacious bedrooms with parquet flooring
airy white walls and antique-style rugs. Windows, triple-glazed against
the roar of the Ringstrasse, look out on to the MuseumsQuartier.
The stygian dining room is along the same stately lines, with
even more chandeliers, while the bar is not to be missed: a gloriously
rococo concoction of painted panels, marble and gold, where the
specialty is champagne cocktails.
Down in the basement, meanwhile, is the extensive fitness and
sauna area. Its revamp of the traditional Austrian sauna owes more
to Terence Conran than the Tyrol, while the centrepiece is a vast
swimming pool, lit by five crystal chandeliers.
MARCH 2013
sleep
romantic retreats in Brussels, new york living for less, and a decadent stay in Vienna
This relatively new Midtown
Ace Hotel
address – it’s been open since
20 W29th Street, New York
2010, in a building that dates from
212 679 2222
1904 – has cool credentials that are
acehotel.com
hard to beat, even in New York. The
hotel’s lobby music, not usually a
celebrated genre, is a handpicked
selection from indie record store
words Sophy Grimshaw
Other Music, for instance. There’s a
discreet entrance from within to hip boutique Opening Ceremony next
door, and another to Stumptown Coffee Roasters (always packed out,
but it’s worth waiting in the early morning queues).
You can dine in-house at The Breslin, brought to you by Ken Friedman
and April Bloomfield, the people behind New York’s hit gastropub The
Spotted Pig. It’s all very trendy, but it’s also extremely good, with one
Michelin star no less. “Rich salty roasted flavours predominate,” says
the blurb, and you can expect a nose-to-tail dining experience, as befits
Bloomfield’s St John London connection.
Bedrooms run the gamut from surprisingly modest bunk bed
set-ups to huge lofts with hardwood floors and vintage furniture.
The best bathrooms have big ol’ tubs that make them much more
soulful than your average hotel facilities. Even the laundry bags, made
to look like an old US Post Office sacks, are cool. I had no idea a laundry
bag could be cool; it’s that sort of hotel. Rooms from €60/$79.
It makes for a luxurious retreat after browsing the city’s museums
or the shops in nearby Kohlmarkt (dubbed Kohlingrad by locals, due
to a preponderance of well-heeled Russians). Doubles from €209.
FLY TO new york daily; vienna three times daily. brusselsairlines.com

These days, the term boutique
Odette en Ville
hotel is much-misused; this place,
25 Rue du Châtelain,
though, is the real thing. Set in
Brussels
a gracious 1920s townhouse on
+32 (0)2 640 2626
a tree-lined street in Ixelles, close
chez-odette.com
to the chi-chi Place du Châtelain,
Odette en Ville has just eight rooms.
Children are made welcome,
words Elizabeth Winding
but we didn’t spot any on our
visit: this is more a stylish hideaway for a romantic weekend à deux.
The décor, indeed, is a study in seduction, mixing restrained blacks
and greys with opulent crushed velvets and sleekly modern fittings:
flatscreen TVs, wi-fi and iPod docks are present and correct, along
with big, gloriously comfortable beds. Our opulently tasseled key
belongs to Room 6 – much in demand, thanks to its marble tub for
two and palatial bathroom, stocked with Penhaligon’s toiletries.
Down the wrought-iron staircase, the dining room is a polished
but unstarchy affair, as is the dimly lit lounge and darkly decadent
bar. The library, too, is an inviting spot for a drink, with its black
lacquered walls, book-print wallpaper panels and little honesty bar;
settle into a low-slung Chesterfield and make yourself at home.
Come the morning the lounge is transformed, its tables set
with pristine white tablecloths and gleaming silverware. We
breakfast on eggs Benedict by a crackling open fire; what this
place lacks in big-hotel amenities, it more than makes up for in
charm. Rooms from €250, not including breakfast.
FLY TO brussels from 50 european destinations. brusselsairlines.com
44 mm
440 €
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Suggested Retail Prices Suggested Retail Prices
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MONTRES VENUS S.A.
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good
things
come in
threes
style
elizabeth winding on cult prints, creative belgians and springtime beauty buys
Creative forces
Set up to support up-and-coming design talents from Belgium and the Netherlands,
De Invasie staged its fi rst ‘invasion’ three years ago. Fifty selected designers set up
camp in Bruges, selling their work straight to the public; since then, the project’s army
of creatives has successfully invaded Leuven, Kortrijk and Gent, along with a number
of smaller-scale incursions.
Now it’s Antwerp’s turn. On Saturday 23 and Sunday 24 March, around 70 young
designers, jewellers and artists will occupy the former ethnographic museum on the
Suikerrui. For a taste of what’s in store, visit the online shop, which is particularly strong
on accessories; look out for silversmith Elisa Lee’s blown-glass cherry earrings (€200)
and Lisa Colpaert’s cool, surreally-printed silk scarves (from €40). deinvasie.be
spring watch
■ Estée Lauder Pure Color Nail Lacquer, €17
The latest additions to the Pure Color range
were inspired by Paris in the springtime time –
which translates to softly glossy polishes ishes
in pretty, macaroon hues. Yellow-green een
Absinthe is the most daring, while
Coral Cult is a classic in the making; ;
our pick, though, is Dilettante, in
the softest of pastel blues.
esteelauder.com
– a
■ Dior Addict in Charming, €28
Part of Dior’s Chérie Bow
spring collection, ‘Charming’ is
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and
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Prints
charming
Textile designer Celia Birtwell’s bold,
bohemian prints helped to defi ne ’60s style,
and her designs were worn by everyone from
Twiggy to Jimi Hendrix. Surviving pieces are
hugely sought after – but now there’s a fresh
chance to bag yourself a Birtwell, thanks to
a new collaboration with Uniqlo. Launching on
21 March, online and in stores, the collection
will take in tote bags, T-shirts, leggings and
more, in striking archive prints. uniqlo.com
■ Bobbi Brown Shimmer Brick, Lilac Rose, €38
Something omething of a a cult beauty buy, Bobbi Brown’s
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march 2013 19

eco
roger east on reinvented city trails in NYC, saving snow in oslo and park life in vilnius
Park
pleasures
in vilnius
The reopening of Sereikiskes Park in Vilnius, after
a year-long refurbishment, should cheer all those
who share the traditional Lithuanian love of trees.
Sereikiskes, the green heart of the Old Town, is the
oldest of the capital’s parks. City-dwellers with a taste
for wilder woodland don’t have far to go either: nearby
Vingis Park provides a well-protected ecosystem within the capital,
with a wider ring of forest in the countryside all around.
Largely thanks to this greenery (and the absence of industry),
Vilnius boasts the best air quality of any capital in Europe. In the
European Green City Index compiled by Siemens and the
Economist Intelligence Unit, its top clean air ranking
helped it reach 13th place overall, the highest in
eastern Europe.
And that’s despite a legacy of Soviet-era buildings
that leak energy like sieves; no wonder Vilnius’s
flamboyant mayor, Arturas Zuokas, is so pro-park.
He’s keen on green transport innovations too, as
witnessed in the city-wide electronic traffic
management system and the E-Orange electric bike
scheme, introduced in 2011. What Zuokas can’t abide is
illegal parking; he once drove a tank over an offending car.
rails to
trails
in new york
What city wouldn’t love its own version
of New York’s High Line? Since it opened
in 2009 – turning a disused elevated
goods railway into a hugely popular
aerial park-cum-pathway through
Manhattan’s densely urbanised Lower
West Side – everyone seems to be
launching copycat “rails to trails” projects.
The latest New York scheme is the ‘Low Line’. Not yet off the
drawing board, the Low Line has designs on the long-abandoned
Williamsburg Bridge underground trolley terminal. Enthusiasts
envisage it as a below-pavement neighbourhood park for the
Lower East Side, complete with trees, plants, grassy spaces and
piped-down sunshine (artist’s impression pictured).
In London, a recent competition organised by the Landscape
Institute came up with some decidedly wilder ideas, such as the
‘Lido Line’ — a special lane in the Regent’s Canal so commuters
could swim to work.
The winner, ‘Pop Down’, more plausibly proposed turning the
disused Mail Rail tunnel beneath the city’s busy Oxford Street
into a cool mushroom-growing park, with sunlight brought down
by fibre optics from the street above. Work begins on the project
later this year.
saving
snow
in oslo
Thanks to an innovative new system, Oslo
airport is set to profit from a perennial
winter problem. The snow that has to be
swept off the runways to keep them clear –
about 22,000m3 of it every year – is being
stored in a specially constructed basin, the
size of an Olympic swimming pool, behind the airport’s
new terminal extension.
A covering of wood chips in the spring will keep the
snow cold until things start hotting up in the airport
extension – the first phase of which is due to open
later this year. Trickling icy water into the district
cooling system, as the snow gently melts, is a
smart low-carbon way to keep the airport
buildings cool during the summer.
It’s ingenious, but also obvious – ice houses
were used for centuries before the refrigerator
was invented. The energy saved will help
Danish engineering company COWI meet
its 21st-century target to halve the energy
consumption of the new extension compared
to that of the existing terminal.
20 march 2013
FLY TO new york JFK daily; vilnius six times weekly;
oslo twice daily. brusselsairlines.com
ALAMY: RAAD STUDIO

Kanaal
A City in the Country
— View at Silo’s —
To discover your apartment in this Axel Vervoordt project
call +32 3 355 38 00 or visit www.kanaal.be

Enfin un lieu où l’on peut réaliser ses rêves...
Les Seychelles... Un autre monde
Office du Tourisme des Seychelles | 18 Rue de Mogador, 75009, Paris, France | info-tourisme.fr@seychelles.travel | www.seychelles.travel

Spice up your spaces
profile The cast-iron AGA cooker is a
AGA Total Control kitchen classic. Invented in 1922
by Gustav Dalen, the Swedish
Nobel Prize-winning physicist, it is renowned for its
longevity: many are still in operation after more than 50
years of use. Constructed in England’s Coalbrookdale
foundry since the
1940s, the AGA
range now welcomes
a new generation of
the legendary heatstorage
cooker – the
award-winning AGA
Total Control.
design
Pennie Taylor on what’s cool for kitchens this spring
A few years ago, a group of friends in Poland were bemoaning how boring their walls were. It struck
them that there could be more exciting things to do with them than simply hanging up predictable
posters and paintings. And so the Pixers concept was born.
Now there’s an online shop and a catalogue featuring a whopping 20 million images which can
be customised as easy-to-install wall décor. Murals, decals, stickers and film can be applied at
home as permanent, or temporary, interior decorations. The striking vinyl mural (above), entitled
Chillis, measures 300x200cm, costs €190 and adds a splash of colour to spice up a run-of-themill
kitchen. “Our goal is to transform lifeless, boring spaces into vibrant celebrations of the
individual,” says Magdalena Zieba of Pixers. “Options are limited only by imagination.”
Select colours to match a motif, or personalise images with photos, names or words. Murals can
be bespoke and, if desired, Pixers’ designers will get in touch to discuss requirements. pixersize.com
What’s new? The classic Aga relied on a constantly
burning source to heat the ovens and hotplates. The
new Total Control version comes with a touch-screen
panel that allows the user to choose which part of the
cooker is on. Heat can be sent to each oven and
hotplate independently and, for the first time, the
AGA comes with an on/off switch.
Chip off the old block? AGA Total Control boasts the
same cast-iron lineage and timeless good looks as its
forebears, and offers the cooking performance that has
made the brand synonymous with culinary excellence.
There are three ovens plus two hotplates. And now,
the latest technology has been harnessed to allow
responsive programming.
FLY TO brussels from 50 destinations. brusselsairlines.com
La Cucina Italiana
Specialising in kitchen utensils and dining
accessories, Italian family firm Alessi has
been in existence for almost a century,
and is known for its cool, creative take on
worktop staples. Working with designers
such as Philippe Starck, Richard Sapper
and architect Zaha Hadid, Alessi has
produced some of the most covetable
domestic objects of recent times, from
singing kettles to leggy lemon squeezers.
Humour is always a feature of the
company’s products, as illustrated by
this cheerful Banana Band spice holder
(below). Designed by Stefano Giovannoni,
whose work is held in the collections of
the Centre George Pompidou in Paris and
New York’s MoMA, the set costs €49.
alessi.com
A 21st-century AGA? This is cutting-edge cooking.
Chefs can operate the AGA Total Control with the heat
radiating throughout, or direct heat to specific areas.
It comes in three-door or five-door models, in a choice
of 11 colours – such as the luscious aubergine (left).
The AGA iTotal Control also allows control of the cooker
by smartphone, tablet computer, or via the web.
Is it eco-sustainable? AGA has worked hard to reduce
the energy consumption of its cookers. New models are
made out of 70% recycled materials and are 90%
recyclable and AGAs can also carry on working for
decades. Thanks to its revolutionary off switch, this
is the greenest AGA yet.
AGA Total Control, from €13,500. agaliving.com
march 2013 23

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ILLUSTRATION: SAM BREWSTER
M
on the road: Malaga to Antequera
Chris Anderson explores southern Spain in Renault’s latest budget car
alaga has certainly changed in recent years. There seems
to have been an influx of fashionable boutiques and cafés
along streets like Calle Marqués de Larios and on the main
square, Plaza de la Constitución. But the city is probably still best
known as the birthplace of artist Pablo Picasso, and the home of
the glorious Museo Picasso Malaga.
Thanks to his fierce opposition to Franco, Picasso spent much of his
life in France, home to the car manufacturer responsible for our drive
here in southern Spain. We plan to drive out of Malaga up into the hilly
region to the north of the city, taking to the countryside in a Dacia
Sandero, the latest offering from Renault’s budget brand. The Dacia
FLY TO malaga daily. brusselsairlines.com
marque originates from Romania, and was purchased by Renault in
1999, originally intended for emerging markets and Eastern Europe.
However, the rest of Europe also saw the appeal, so Renault decided
to offer it further afield – and the Sandero is the result. The Sandero
Stepway is available too: essentially the same car, but with an elevated
ride and roof bars to give it more of an off-roader look. With a starting
price of around €7,000, the Sandero is one of the most affordable cars
in Europe. We’re testing the bells-and-whistles Lauréate version, which
costs extra but gives a level of choice, kitting the car out to suit your
budget. Even if you opt for everything, the price remains competitive
with, say, the price of a Fiesta or Clio.
MARCH 2013 25

Raidillon, always limited to 55 original masterpieces.
Galerie de la Reine, 32 - 1000 Brussels www.raidillon.com

Our car also features the same touchscreen sat-nav available in other
Renault models, which comes in handy for negotiating the route out of
Malaga. It isn’t long before the industrial buildings and forests of highrises
fall away, revealing longer, quieter roads, flanked by old farmhouses,
vineyards and wooded hillsides.
Just 40km into the drive, the town of Álora is an impressive sight, a
typical Spanish pueblo with shady cobbled streets and white-washed
buildings scattered around a large hill, with a castle resting imperiously
on top. Accelerating strongly, the Sandero has no problem getting up to
the historic town, and is just as comfortable as it has been on the flat.
But then this is the turbo-charged petrol engine version.
In the centre of town is Los Correos, a three-room tapas bar built into
what was once the old post office. This is a great spot to sample the fresh
produce of these valleys – beginning with a bowl of fresh olives, followed
by a slab of tortilla and a plate of local ham and cheese. We finish with
some crunchy, wickedly good churros (long strips of sugary, deep-fried
doughnut batter). Dipped in chocolate, of course.
We bid goodbye to Álora, driving north towards the vast lake of Conde
de Guadalhorce which stretches out in every direction and is surrounded
by lush green hills. We flit over a huge dam holding back the water –
covering an expanse of 271km2 – the reflection of the Dacia’s Sargasso
Blue metallic paint glinting in the waters below.
At Campillos we head west towards our final stop, Antequera. Located
between the Guadalhorce River in the north and the Sierra de Torcal
mountain range to the south – home to two huge nature reserves – the
landscape becomes more varied, but the Sandero handles it with ease.
Yet another castle dominates the landscape at Antequera, rising above
a huddle of handsome historic buildings. For a touch of tradition, we
make our way to the Plaza del Toros, the city’s bullring, built in 1848.
Inside is a small museum and a restaurant, located beneath the public
seating. Here you can sit under wooden beams, surrounded by old
photos, and sample pig’s cheek with mushroom and raisins, rich h duck
confit or the local speciality porra – a thicker version of gazpacho, o,
made from tomatoes, peppers and dried bread.
As we end our journey we reflect on the beautiful old towns and nd
traditional cuisine encountered on the trip. The terrain is ruggedly ly
spectacular and it’s a pleasant surprise to find that getting to the e heart
of the Spanish countryside, away from the tourism hotspots, doesn’t esn’t
have to cost much either. The Sandero is perfect for such a journey. ney.
FLY TO malaga daily. brusselsairlines.com
SPEC
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Engine
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Acceleration
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Top speed
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28
SLUG
xxxx 2012
Jean-Louis Gelin,
owner of La Meunière

F
guts and
Lyon has an appetite for ine dining, with 20 Michelin stars to its
name. Its heart, though, belongs to its bouchons, which are
altogether earthier affairs. Elizabeth Winding samples the city's
centuries-old tradition of no-nonsense, nose-to-tail eating
or the bouchons of Lyon, eating the whole animal is
nothing new. Salade de museau (beef muzzle
salad) has been on the menu for over two
centuries, as has oxtail, gently braised with tomatoes
and shallots. They’re the kind of dishes around which
every self-respecting bouchon’s menu revolves: solid,
honest and immune to the vagaries of passing foodie fads.
The bouchons started up in the 18th century, when they
catered to hungry travellers waiting for their horses to be
rubbed down (bouchonné) in the stables. Often presided
over by women, who became known as les mères lyonaisses,
they were cramped and convivial places, serving up unfussy
but often excellent home-cooking; in 1933, Eugénie Brazier
of La Mère Brazier became the first woman to be awarded
three Michelin stars.
These days, bar a few honourable exceptions, it’s mostly
men in the kitchen – though little else seems to have changed
over the years. Communal tables, red-and-white checked
tablecloths and minimal elbow-room are de rigueur, as is a
comfortable clutter of copper pans and dubious bric-a-brac.
Menus revolve around offal, just as they’ve always done,
from tête de veau (calf’s head) to tablier du sapeur (literally
“fireman’s apron”), a workmanlike slab of fried, breaded
tripe. Quenelles are another local speciality: a triumph of
FLY TO lyon three times daily. brusselsairlines.com
glory
Photography Laura Stevens
culinary ingenuity, whereby almost inedibly bony pike are
transformed into ethereal, mousse-like dumplings, served
with rich, crayfish-infused sauce.
Lunch in such establishments proceeds along timehonoured
lines. The proprietor chides the regulars, delivers
heaped plates of charcuterie and dispenses squat pots
lyonnais of wine, while regulars keep up a hum of conversation
and purposeful clatter of cutlery. They’re not shy about
dispensing advice to out-of-towners, either, from the merits
of various digestifs to vociferous recommendations of other
vrai bouchons: we leave one lunch with a 12-strong list,
scrawled on a torn-off strip of paper tablecloth.
Locals who eat at the bouchons generally harbour fiercely
partisan preferences, although there is some consensus. Most
would concur that Comptoir Abel has the lightest quenelles
in town, while over at Daniel et Denise, Joseph Viola’s awardwinning
pâté en croûte is considered beyond reproach.
There’s broad agreement, too, on the fact that a lot of the
tourist traps that call themselves bouchons are nothing of
the sort – an increasing problem, as tourist numbers rise.
Although a new scheme to identify and label ‘authentic’
bouchons is afoot, not everyone’s keen on signing up.
“We know we’re a bouchon Lyonnais,” says one indignant
owner. “And we don’t need to pay a committee to tell us so.”
MARCH 2013
29

30
Jean-Louis Gelin,
owner of la meunière
A bouchon must
be simple: no
embellishment,
no sommelier, no
little decorations
on the plates. It’s
no good having
a big golden sign:
what matters
most is that a bouchon has
soul. What qualities do you
need, as an owner? Charisma.
And you have to love people:
it’s not just a matter of carrying
plates, handing over the bill
and saying thank you and
goodbye. You have to interact.
If you don’t, you might as well
open a brasserie.
With the Lyonnais, there’s
always an element of attack.
If a regular’s late, you might
say "T’a cassé ta montre?":
have you broken your watch?
We always joke around.
The décor helps to create a
certain ambiance, and I try to
preserve it exactly as it is. It’s
a bit of a problem as things
get older, actually – like the
patch of wallpaper that needs
redoing. I’ve got a plan for
that, though: we’re going to
get some identical paper made,
xxxx 2012
which will match
the patina perfectly.
It really wouldn’t do
to get new paper!
If I even mention
replacing the old
panelling, the
regulars get upset.
“‘Everything’s
been newly done,” I tell
people. “Forty-five years ago.”
Nothing’s been altered over
the years, and that’s not
easy to maintain.
The menu hasn’t changed
either; it’s a simple cuisine, a
generous cuisine, centred on
tripe and offal. Every bouchon
has its own way of making the
classics, but they’re not wildly
different. For me, the mark of
an authentic bouchon is to find
the same dishes, made the way
they always have been.
We’re one of the only places
that still serves salads in big
bowls so that people can help
themselves: EU legislation
has made it hard to keep to
the old ways. Everything’s
becoming more sterile, more
homogenised; it’s a shame.
11 rue Neuve, +33 (0)4 7828
6291, la.meuniere.free.fr
I've worked in
other places, but a
bouchon lyonnais is
something special –
like one big family
Denis Buisson,
chef at the
café des
fédérations
People take their time over lunch at
Les Fédés. Last December, when the
city was full of visitors for the Fête des
Lumières, we refused to do a double
lunch sitting. We wanted to do right
by our regulars, who come here dayin
day-out, and it also meant that the
tourists who came in weren’t hurried
along. It’s really a nice way of working.
I’ve cooked in other places before,
but a bouchon lyonnais is something
special. It’s very friendly, like one big

family, and there are some real
characters among the owners.
We serve a lot of offal; if you’re
not used to that, quenelles are a
good dish to try. Here, we serve
them with a sauce of tiny green
crabs, which are cooked alive:
you have to crush them. It’s a
bit disgusting, I suppose, but
that’s cooking for you! Each
place has little things they do
differently; when I started here,
the owner took me to one side
and showed me their recipes.
Gras-double à la lyonnaise is a
local speciality: tripe, cut in thin
slices and cooked with white
FLY TO lyon three times daily. brusselsairlines.com
Café des Fédérations chef
Denis Buisson (left), with
owner Yves Rivoiron
wine, onions, garlic and parsley,
finished with a dash of raspberry
or balsamic vinegar. Tablier
de sapeur is similar, but cut
into squares and breaded.
Personally, I really like tête
de veau (calf’s head), though
it takes a long time to prepare
and cook. You have to simmer
it softly for hours, keeping it
just below boiling point – and
if you don’t wait for it to cool
properly, it can explode. Me,
I like to eat everything; I am
Lyonnais, after all.
8-10 rue Major Martin, +33
(0)4 7828 2600, lesfedeslyon.com
Laura Vildi, co-owner of
le bouchon des filles
Isabelle [Comerro] and I
opened Le Bouchon des Filles
in 2007. Before that, we’d
both worked at the Café des
Fédérations for years – though
we were there at different
times, and only met later.
We both felt that if Lyonnais
cuisine was going to survive, it
needed to be updated and made
a bit lighter. The idea was to
appeal to younger people, and
to women: even in the days
of the mères lyonnaisses, the
bouchons attracted a very male
clientele. At the same time,
we’ve tried to keep the spirit
and culture alive: the closeness
of the tables, which encourages
people to chat, and the convivial
atmosphere. The prices are
affordable, but you eat a proper
meal: an entrée of three salads,
a main, cheese and dessert.
Our dishes often have a twist.
There’s a smoked herring and
warm potato salad that’s very
well known here; our version is
to make a herring rillette, with
Isabelle Comerro, left, and Laura
Vildi of Le Bouchon des Filles
LYON
carrot and a little coriander. If
we serve tripe, we might cook it
Spanish-style, with chorizo and
peppers. We’re known for our
boudin aux pommes (black
pudding with apples), which has
been on the menu since the
start; we serve it in a filo parcel,
with an aromatic herb salad.
People here can be quite
conservative. If anyone calls up
and asks if we have tablier du
sapeur or tête de veau, I explain
that while our menu is based
on Lyonnais ingredients and
cuisine, it’s not completely
traditional. Even so, some
people would never eat here,
because they’re looking for a
“vrai bouchon”: that’s too bad.
Was it difficult to choose a
name for the bouchon? Not
at all. We wanted the name to
reflect the personality of the
place: we’re two girls, and this
is our bouchon. Here, we can
do things our way.
20 Rue Sergent Blandan,
+33 (0)4 7830 4044
xxxx 2012 31

SLUG
Joseph Viola
owner of daniel et denise
When my wife and I bought this place, we
decided to keep the name. Daniel and
Denise, the previous owners, had been
here for 40 years and it was a name
everyone knew. The Lyonnais are
conservative by nature, so we wanted to
preserve that history.
Back in 2004, I became a Meilleur
Ouvrier de France. The
competition is held once
every four years, and it
was such an honour to get
through; of the 800 or so
chefs that take part, only
about 15 reach the final
stage. A few months after
that, we bought the
bouchon. People said I
was crazy, but I wanted to
cook food that everyone
could taste – not just people with money,
eating in the most expensive restaurants.
Our suppliers come every day; we
don’t have cold storage in my kitchen.
The fridge contains the ingredients we’ll
use that day, not in three days’ time. I’ve
worked in a lot of Michelin-starred
32 MARCH 2013
kitchens, so I have a certain way of doing
things. The mise en place is key:
everything is apportioned and calculated,
nothing left to chance. Here, we make
traditional bouchon dishes using the
methods of a starred restaurant, so you’ll
always find exactly 15 lardons in our salad
lyonnais. Everything is made in-house,
too, from the sorbet to
the quenelles. If I can’t
make something myself,
I won’t put it on the
menu.
It’s been nine years
now, and we’ve been
very lucky: for the last
four years, we’ve been
full every day, lunch and
dinner, and we’ve just
opened a second
outpost in Vieux Lyon. Times have
changed, and offering value for money is
key; the people who thought I was mad to
buy a bouchon back in 2004 now say I
had the right idea.
156 rue de Créqui, +33 (0)4 7860 6653,
daniel-et-denise.fr
here, we make
bouchon dishes
with michelin
precision: there
are exactly 15
lardons in our
salad lyonnais
FR
Le ventre de Lyon
Elizabeth Winding savoure un week-end
dégustation dans les « bouchons » de la ville
C’est bien connu, dans les bouchons on mange tout –
du museau à la queue. Dans ces établissements typiques
de Lyon, qui existent depuis le 18 e siècle, les abats trônent
en bonne place au menu. Au départ, c’était des lieux
populaires, bon marché, souvent dirigés par des femmes
appelées les mères lyonnaises.
La plupart des Lyonnais défendent fi èrement leurs
bouchons, mais ils reconnaissent que de nombreux
pièges à touristes existent. Et bien qu’il existe un label
« authentique bouchon », tous les établissements
n’y adhèrent pas. « Nous savons que nous sommes un
véritable bouchon lyonnais, » dit un propriétaire indigné.
« Nous n’avons pas besoin de payer un comité pour nous
le confi rmer. »
Jean-Louis Gelin, propriétaire de La Meunière
Dans un bouchon, il est important de nouer des contacts
avec les clients. Avec les Lyonnais, on trouve toujours un
angle d’attaque. Si un habitué est en retard, vous lui lancez :
« t’as cassé ta montre ? » On aime bien blaguer.
la.meuniere.free.fr
Denis Buisson, chef au Café des Fédérations
Personnellement, j’adore la tête de veau, quoique cela
prenne du temps à préparer. Vous devez la laisser mijoter
à feu doux durant des heures. Pour ma part, j’aime manger
de tout ; je suis Lyonnais, après tout. lesfedeslyon.com
Laura Vildi, co-propriétaire du Bouchon des Filles
Cet établissement est plus féminin que les autres. Nous
pensons que pour survivre, la cuisine lyonnaise doit
s’adapter et opter pour plus de légèreté. Notre boudin aux
pommes, par exemple, est cuisiné en croûte et
accompagné d’une salade aromatisée aux herbes.
Délicieux !
Joseph Viola, propriétaire de Daniel et Denise
J’ai toujours travaillé dans des restaurants étoilés, mais je
voulais faire une cuisine accessible – et non pas réservée
aux seuls clients fortunés. Lorsque j’ai acheté cet endroit,
tout le monde disait que j’étais fou ; aujourd’hui, ils
trouvent que c’était une bonne idée. daniel-et-denise.fr
NL
Het gastronomische
hart van Lyon
Elizabeth Winding geniet een weekendje van de beste
bouchon eetgelegenheden van de stad
In de bouchons slachtafval staat er al sinds de 18de eeuw
op het hoofdmenu. Sinds hun begindagen zijn dit
goedkope, gezellige eetplekjes die vaak worden uitgebaat
door vrouwen, de zogeheten mères lyonnaises.
Jean-Louis Gelin, eigenaar van La Meunière
Wie een bouchon uitbaat, moet leren communiceren. De
inwoners van Lyon vinden altijd wel een manier om je te
“bekritiseren”. Tegen vaste klanten die te laat komen,
zeggen we bijvoorbeeld: ‘t’as cassé ta montre?’ (is je
horloge kapot). We zijn altijd wel te vinden voor een grapje.
la.meuniere.free.fr
Denis Buisson, chef-kok van Café des Fédérations
Ik hou enorm van tête de veau, hoewel het lang moet
opstaan. U moet het een aantal uren zachtjes laten
sudderen. Ikzelf eet echt alles graag. Ik ben dan ook een
echte Lyonnais. lesfedeslyon.com
Laura Vildi, mede-eigenaar van Le Bouchon des Filles
Dit plekje is vrouwelijker dan de andere. We waren ervan
overtuigd dat de lokale gastronomie een nieuwe impuls
en iets minder zware gerechten nodig had om te kunnen
overleven. Zo bereiden wij onze boudin aux pommes in
papillot en wordt het opgediend met een aromatische
kruidensalade.
Joseph Viola, eigenaar Daniel et Denise
Ik heb altijd voor Michelin restaurants gewerkt, maar ik
wilde gerechten bereiden voor het grote publiek. Toen ik
deze zaak kocht, zei iedereen me dat ik gek was. Nu geven
ze toe dat ik het bij het rechte eind had. daniel-et-denise.fr
FLY TO lyon three times daily. brusselsairlines.com

SLUG
Joseph Viola
owner of daniel et denise
When my wife and I bought this place, we
decided to keep the name. Daniel and
Denise, the previous owners, had been
here for 40 years and it was a name
everyone knew. The Lyonnais are
conservative by nature, so we wanted to
preserve that history.
Back in 2004, I became a Meilleur
Ouvrier de France. The
competition is held once
every four years, and it
was such an honour to get
through; of the 800 or so
chefs that take part, only
about 15 reach the final
stage. A few months after
that, we bought the
bouchon. People said I
was crazy, but I wanted to
cook food that everyone
could taste – not just people with money,
eating in the most expensive restaurants.
Our suppliers come every day; we
don’t have cold storage in my kitchen.
The fridge contains the ingredients we’ll
use that day, not in three days’ time. I’ve
worked in a lot of Michelin-starred
32 MARCH 2013
kitchens, so I have a certain way of doing
things. The mise en place is key:
everything is apportioned and calculated,
nothing left to chance. Here, we make
traditional bouchon dishes using the
methods of a starred restaurant, so you’ll
always find exactly 15 lardons in our salad
lyonnais. Everything is made in-house,
too, from the sorbet to
the quenelles. If I can’t
make something myself,
I won’t put it on the
menu.
It’s been nine years
now, and we’ve been
very lucky: for the last
four years, we’ve been
full every day, lunch and
dinner, and we’ve just
opened a second
outpost in Vieux Lyon. Times have
changed, and offering value for money is
key; the people who thought I was mad to
buy a bouchon back in 2004 now say I
had the right idea.
156 rue de Créqui, +33 (0)4 7860 6653,
daniel-et-denise.fr
here, we make
bouchon dishes
with michelin
precision: there
are exactly 15
lardons in our
salad lyonnais
FR
Le ventre de Lyon
Elizabeth Winding savoure un week-end
dégustation dans les « bouchons » de la ville
C’est bien connu, dans les bouchons on mange tout –
du museau à la queue. Dans ces établissements typiques
de Lyon, qui existent depuis le 18 e siècle, les abats trônent
en bonne place au menu. Au départ, c’était des lieux
populaires, bon marché, souvent dirigés par des femmes
appelées les mères lyonnaises.
La plupart des Lyonnais défendent fi èrement leurs
bouchons, mais ils reconnaissent que de nombreux
pièges à touristes existent. Et bien qu’il existe un label
« authentique bouchon », tous les établissements
n’y adhèrent pas. « Nous savons que nous sommes un
véritable bouchon lyonnais, » dit un propriétaire indigné.
« Nous n’avons pas besoin de payer un comité pour nous
le confi rmer. »
Jean-Louis Gelin, propriétaire de La Meunière
Dans un bouchon, il est important de nouer des contacts
avec les clients. Avec les Lyonnais, on trouve toujours un
angle d’attaque. Si un habitué est en retard, vous lui lancez :
« t’as cassé ta montre ? » On aime bien blaguer.
la.meuniere.free.fr
Denis Buisson, chef au Café des Fédérations
Personnellement, j’adore la tête de veau, quoique cela
prenne du temps à préparer. Vous devez la laisser mijoter
à feu doux durant des heures. Pour ma part, j’aime manger
de tout ; je suis Lyonnais, après tout. lesfedeslyon.com
Laura Vildi, co-propriétaire du Bouchon des Filles
Cet établissement est plus féminin que les autres. Nous
pensons que pour survivre, la cuisine lyonnaise doit
s’adapter et opter pour plus de légèreté. Notre boudin aux
pommes, par exemple, est cuisiné en croûte et
accompagné d’une salade aromatisée aux herbes.
Délicieux !
Joseph Viola, propriétaire de Daniel et Denise
J’ai toujours travaillé dans des restaurants étoilés, mais je
voulais faire une cuisine accessible – et non pas réservée
aux seuls clients fortunés. Lorsque j’ai acheté cet endroit,
tout le monde disait que j’étais fou ; aujourd’hui, ils
trouvent que c’était une bonne idée. daniel-et-denise.fr
NL
Het gastronomische
hart van Lyon
Elizabeth Winding geniet een weekendje van de beste
bouchon eetgelegenheden van de stad
In de bouchons slachtafval staat er al sinds de 18de eeuw
op het hoofdmenu. Sinds hun begindagen zijn dit
goedkope, gezellige eetplekjes die vaak worden uitgebaat
door vrouwen, de zogeheten mères lyonnaises.
Jean-Louis Gelin, eigenaar van La Meunière
Wie een bouchon uitbaat, moet leren communiceren. De
inwoners van Lyon vinden altijd wel een manier om je te
“bekritiseren”. Tegen vaste klanten die te laat komen,
zeggen we bijvoorbeeld: ‘t’as cassé ta montre?’ (is je
horloge kapot). We zijn altijd wel te vinden voor een grapje.
la.meuniere.free.fr
Denis Buisson, chef-kok van Café des Fédérations
Ik hou enorm van tête de veau, hoewel het lang moet
opstaan. U moet het een aantal uren zachtjes laten
sudderen. Ikzelf eet echt alles graag. Ik ben dan ook een
echte Lyonnais. lesfedeslyon.com
Laura Vildi, mede-eigenaar van Le Bouchon des Filles
Dit plekje is vrouwelijker dan de andere. We waren ervan
overtuigd dat de lokale gastronomie een nieuwe impuls
en iets minder zware gerechten nodig had om te kunnen
overleven. Zo bereiden wij onze boudin aux pommes in
papillot en wordt het opgediend met een aromatische
kruidensalade.
Joseph Viola, eigenaar Daniel et Denise
Ik heb altijd voor Michelin restaurants gewerkt, maar ik
wilde gerechten bereiden voor het grote publiek. Toen ik
deze zaak kocht, zei iedereen me dat ik gek was. Nu geven
ze toe dat ik het bij het rechte eind had. daniel-et-denise.fr
FLY TO lyon three times daily. brusselsairlines.com

OUR KNOW-HOW IS TASTED WITH WISDOM 12% VOL
Served on board
Brussels Airlines’ long-haul
Business Class

Dominique and the
Self-styled ‘shock-o-latier’ Dominique Persoone loves
to experiment with outlandish ingredients, but also
creates ine, elegant, herb-infused confectionery.
Emma Beddington meets the real-life Willy Wonka
and inds there’s method in his madness
T
he chocolate-box beautiful city of Bruges is
the undisputed chocolate capital of Europe:
there’s a chocolate museum (Choco-Story)
and an annual chocolate festival, while an
extraordinary 52 chocolate shops line its
medieval streets. None, however, is quite like
the establishment run by Dominique Persoone.
It’s not that The Chocolate Line – named
for the route New World explorers took to
transport cacao beans – looks particularly
different: an elegant brown and gold
frontage on a narrow cobbled street,
wooden counters, white uniformed staff.
It’s what you find behind those counters
that sets it apart. Take a closer look and you’ll
find chocolates spiked with soy sauce or balsamic
vinegar, curry, tobacco and Coca-Cola. You can buy a
chocolate lipstick or even test the Chocolate Shooter,
a contraption for snorting chocolate snuff which
Persoone designed for a birthday party for the Rolling
Stones. It’s chocolate, but not as we know it.
That’s just the tip of the iceberg for the selfproclaimed
‘shock-o-latier’. When I meet Persoone in
the test kitchen of his factory on the grey outskirts of
the city (the letterbox is a giant cacao pod, and the

uilding is decorated to look as if it has been dipped in chocolate), the
genial 44-year-old Bruges native reels off a few of his more outrageous
creations. “We’ve done cauliflower, oysters, grass, melon and Parma
ham. Rain. Anchovy. Caramel. Chocolate frogs coated in lidocaine…”
It could all be terribly gimmicky, but Persoone has a stellar culinary
pedigree. He trained as a chef before opening The Chocolate Line in
1992 and his creations are brilliant, experimental gastronomy: the
outlandish combinations not only work, they change your perspective
on what chocolate is and how it can taste.
The culinary establishment agrees: Persoone is one of only three
chocolatiers in the Michelin Guide, and has the distinction of supplying
all of Belgium’s three-star restaurants with chocolates. He’s also part
of Heston Blumenthal’s Fat Duck ‘think tank’, and tells me a wonderful
anecdote about experimenting with chocolate and a tank of helium,
and ending up surrounded by clouds of floating chocolate. René Redzepi
of Noma (Restaurant magazine’s Best Restaurant in the World 2012)
sent his pastry chef to train at the factory last summer.
“I’m a cook, not a real chocolate maker,” says Persoone. “For me,
chocolate is just another department of the kitchen. A lot of chef
colleagues say that working with chocolate every day must be boring,
but there are so many things we can do, it’s wonderful.” The experimental
culture extends to his whole team: 12 people in the factory, and another
22 split between the two shops (the second, opened in 2010, is in a
gorgeous frescoed space in Napoleon’s former palace on the Meir in
Antwerp). “We have everything here: bakers, cooks, even a butcher.
The one thing they have in common is they all fell in love with chocolate,
and we share the same passion.”
Each week the team meets to discuss new ideas, to experiment and
taste. The test kitchen is a riot of scribbled recipes and sketched designs,
mysterious, industrial-scale pieces of kitchen equipment and jars of
esoteric flavours and spices. Current projects include chocolate ‘pills’
flavoured with walnut, fig and goat’s cheese, and a new smoked-tea
praline for Michelin three-star chef Sergio Herman of Oud Sluis.
“We use lots of strange ingredients,” says Persoone, gesturing at a
row of jars. “That’s powdered coca leaf from Peru. It’s legal to buy there
so I brought it back in my luggage wrapped in my socks and underwear!”
Developing a new chocolate can take anything from a few hours to six
months, says Persoone; sometimes you get lucky, more often you need
to test exhaustively. Are there any disasters? Things that just don’t work?
“Rose hasn’t worked out yet. I tried, but it tasted like soap. The challenge
36 march 2013
FLY TO brussels From 50 european destinations. brusselsairlines.com

is to find the right balance. Of course, some of the flavours we do sound
crazy-freaky, but it’s important to have an open mind when you taste.”
The quest for new flavours and combinations has also taken
Persoone to Latin America to explore the roots of chocolate. The walls
of the factory are lined with souvenirs of his travels, from machetes,
tribal masks and molinillos (hot chocolate stirrers) to traditional wooden
implements for creating a cocoa espuma, or foam.
“It’s an addiction. I’m addicted to food, to tattoos [he has five, mainly
chocolate related, including a Rolling Stones inspired ‘Chocolate is
rock’n’roll’] and to Latin America.” Since his first trip in 2007, he’s
returned to the region again and again, trips which formed the basis
for his prize-winning book, Cacao. Always animated, he’s aglow as he
describes his adventures of riding deep into the rainforest, abseiling into
a cenote (the deep natural sinkholes in which the Mayans grew cacao)
and encountering boa constrictors at close quarters.
“It’s amazing. It’s a completely different story of chocolate than the
one we know in Europe. I discovered new varieties of bean, the spices
the Mayans used in their drinks, and learned how to make an espuma.”
Last year Persoone acquired his own cacao plantation, deep in Mayan
territory near Uxmal in the east of Mexico. It’s partly pure adventure,
THE SHOCK-O-LATIER
Clockwise from far left: Shock-o-latier Persoone
with a precious cacao pod; the Chocolate Line store
in Antwerp; a variety of unique chocolate creations;
Persoone at work; his ‘dipped-in-chocolate’ HQ.
partly a way of protecting his supply. “We see so many things going
wrong with the beans. There’s a variety called Criollo Negro, an amazing,
wonderful bean, but only 120kg are grown a year, because other crops
are more profitable. We thought maybe we could save some varieties.”
7 heavenly chocolates from Persoone
Cebolla: Almond praline with crisp fried onion.
Tokyo: Bitter ganache with Japanese wasabi marzipan.
Italian Javanais: White chocolate ganache with fresh basil,
sun-dried tomato chutney and marzipan with black olives.
Bollywood: White chocolate with saffron and curry ganache.
Atlanta: Coca-Cola ganache and almond praline with fizzing
popping candy.
Cabernet Sauvignon: Caramel of Cabernet Sauvignon
vinegar with pine nuts.
Havana: Dark chocolate ganache, flavoured with Havana
tobacco leaves.
MAIN PORTRAIT: DOMINIQUE LIBERT
march 2013 37

of course some of the flavours
sound crazy-freaky, but you have
to have an open mind to taste
He’s growing four types of bean in his
plantation (including one discovered at the
bottom of that cenote) and the first crop is
due two years from now. “We’ll never get
rich from it, but my big dream is to take all
my team to Mexico for the first harvest. It’s
amazing, it’s really fun”.
Flemish television has been filming his
Mexican adventures, so Persoone’s life
looks set to get even more rock’n’roll. He
already gets recognised on the street,
something that leaves him bemused:
“People stop me and ask for pictures.
It’s very strange.” Thankfully his wife,
Fabienne, is there to keep him grounded.
“She’s the real boss. I’m a very bad
businessman, so she’s in charge and she
gives me pocket money for cigarettes and
beer. It works perfectly.”
What’s next for this real-life Willy
Wonka? There’s more TV in the offing,
projects in Japan and Qatar, perhaps a new
shop, definitely a trip back to his beloved
Latin America. He’s busy – busier than most
of us could imagine – but the word I hear
most from him is “fun”. “I never feel like
I’m working. I have fun, I travel, I follow
my passion. It is, if you’ll forgive the
pun, a sweet life.”
The Chocolate Line, Simon Stevinplein 19,
Brugge, and Paleis op de Meir 50, Antwerp,
FLY TO brussels from 50 european destinations. brusselsairlines.com
THE SHOCK-O-LATIER
FR
Le Willy Wonka belge
Rencontre d’Emma Beddington avec le premier
« shock-o-latier » du pays
Avec son musée et son festival dédiés au chocolat, la
pittoresque ville de Bruges est, en Europe, la capitale
incontestée du chocolat. On y trouve en outre pas moins
de 52 boutiques de chocolat dans ses rues médiévales.
Toutefois, aucune ne ressemble à l’établissement de
Dominique Persoone, La Chocolate Line – ainsi nommée
en référence à la route empruntée par les explorateurs du
Nouveau Monde pour transporter le cacao. Vue de
l’extérieur, avec sa façade élégante de couleur brun et or, sa
boutique ne paraît pas très différente. Mais de l’autre côté du
comptoir, c’est une autre histoire.
Regardez-y de plus près et vous découvrirez des
chocolats rehaussés de sauce soja, de vinaigre balsamique
ou encore de curry, tabac et Coca-Cola. Vous pourrez y
acheter un rouge à lèvres saveur chocolat ou même le
fameux Chocolate Shooter, un « sniff » de chocolat. Persoone
l’a conçu pour la fête anniversaire des Rolling Stones. C’est
du chocolat, certes, mais pas sous sa forme habituelle !
L’audace est la marque de fabrique de ce « shock-o-latier »
originaire de Bruges. A 44 ans, Persoone est un artisan qui
nous étourdit avec ses nombreuses créations extravagantes.
Tout cela pourrait paraître terriblement gadget, si
Persoone ne possédait un réel talent culinaire. Il a suivi une
formation de chef avant d’ouvrir la Chocolate Line en 1992
et ses brillantes créations relèvent de la gastronomie
expérimentale. L’establishment culinaire s’accorde à dire
que Persoone est un des trois seuls chocolatiers repris
au Guide Michelin, et qu’il a le privilège de fournir les
restaurants étoilés en Belgique.
« Je suis un cuisinier, pas un chocolatier, » explique
Persoone. « Pour moi, le chocolat est juste une autre branche
de la cuisine. » Sa culture de l’expérimentation s’étend à
toute son équipe : 12 personnes dans l’usine et 22 autres
collaborateurs répartis entre les deux magasins (le second,
ouvert en 2010, se trouve dans un ancien palais napoléonien
décoré de fresques, sur le Meir à Anvers). « Nous avons tout
ici : pâtissiers, cuisiniers, même un boucher. Leur commun
dénominateur est leur amour pour le chocolat, une passion
partagée par nous tous. »
NL
Belgische Willy Wonka
Emma Beddington ontmoet de allereerste
Belgische ‘shock-o-latier’
Brugge is ontegensprekelijk DE Europese
chocoladehoofdstad. In de middeleeuwse straatjes vindt
u een chocolademuseum, een jaarlijks chocoladefestival
en liefst 52 chocoladewinkels. Dominique Persoone baat
echter het alleruniekste winkeltje uit.
U vindt er chocolade op basis van sojasaus, balsamicoazijn,
curry, tabak of zelfs Coca-Cola en u kunt er
chocoladelippenstift of een Chocoladeshooter kopen, een
heuse chocolade ”shot” die Persoone ontwierp voor het
verjaardagsfeestje van de Rolling Stones.
De in Brugge geboren, 44-jarige Persoone is een
genie. Chocolade op basis van bloemkool, oester, gras,
meloen, Parmaham, ansjovis en karamel, chocoladen
kikkers met een laagje lidocaïne,… Het zijn maar enkele
van zijn extravagante creaties.
Voordat Persoone in 1992 The Chocolate Line opende,
volgde hij een koksopleiding. Zijn creaties zijn briljant en
experimenteel; bizarre combinaties die je perspectief over
chocolade en hoe het smaakt helemaal veranderen.
De culinaire experts zijn het ermee zijn; Persoone is
een van de slechts drie chocolatiers die worden opgenomen
in de Michelin Gids. Hij levert chocolade aan alle Belgische
driesterrenrestaurants.
“Ik ben een kok, geen echte chocolatier”, aldus Persoone.
“Voor mij vormt chocolade gewoon een onderdeel van het
koken. Veel van mijn collega’s zeggen dat het saai moet zijn
om dagelijks met chocolade te werken; maar je kunt er
zoveel mee doen, het is fantastisch.” Deze experimentele
chocoladecultuur stelt 12 mensen te werk in de fabriek en
nog eens 22 in de twee winkels. “We hebben hier echt alles:
bakkers, chef-koks en zelfs een slager. We hebben onze liefde
voor chocolade gemeen en delen allen dezelfde passie.”
thechocolateline.be PORTRAIT: DOMINIQUE LIBERT
march 2013 39

E
The Brooklyn
hooch revolution
There’s a new artisanal distilling movement growing in New York, sustained by a
group of enthusiastic and dedicated young entrepreneurs and hobbyists. A thirsty
Joe Warwick discovers a scene that is above ground, legal and very, very tasty
very big distillery tends to have some sort of tourist
trap of a bar attached, but the sort of joint that
you’d actually want to drink in, one that makes
great cocktails, attracts hip locals and just happens to have
its very own distillery attached are often in short supply. In
fact The Shanty, opened in an old rag-trade warehouse in
Williamsburg, is the only one that I’ve ever come across.
Since it opened in December 2011 as an annexe of the
newly founded NY Distilling Company, the nascent distilling
trend in New York City has turned from a trickle of hard
liquor to a steady stream, with nine artisan distillers now
operating in Brooklyn, and one in the Bronx.
“The great ethnic diversity of the city has given swift rise
to a variety of spirits, liqueurs and vermouths,” says Shanty
co-founder and spirit expert-turned-distiller Allen Katz. “At
the same time, the decline of Wall Street five years ago left a
collection of unemployed people with more than a few dollars
and the confidence and desire to build new businesses.”
On a more practical level, a gradual change in New York
State law has made it more affordable to distil, where less
than a decade ago, red tape and licensing costs had made
it economically unviable. Call it a hangover from Prohibition,
but it took 72 years from the repeal of the 18th Amendment in
1933 for alcohol – or at least legally produced alcohol – to be
distilled again in New York State, which at its peak in the 19th
century was home to over 1,000 distilleries.
In 2005, Tuthilltown Spirits in the Hudson Valley was the
first company to take advantage of a change in New York law
that made affordable Farm Distilling Licences available –
issued only if the bulk of ingredients used were of New York
origin. So began the trickle of spirit production, the first to
be openly distilled in New York since 1920.
Although more distilleries have since emerged across the
state, it’s in urban New York City rather than rural New York
that the micro-distillery movement has really taken off. You
don’t need to be a farm to gain a Farm Distilling Licence and
since Kings County Distillery in Brooklyn Navy Yard began in
2010 (now the city’s longest-running distillery), New York
City now has 10 distilleries, six having opened in 2012; three
years ago there were none.
The spirits being produced range from bourbon, rye and
corn whiskeys to vodkas, gins and rums, plus more esoteric
tipples such as grappa (made with wine from New York
vineyards) and liqueurs made from cacao and hibiscus. For
the most part, we’re talking about artisan spirits – hipster
hooch and experimental recipes being produced by hobbyists
in small batches, a world away from industrial distilling.
Katz sees New York’s distillery movement as an extension
of what is going on elsewhere in American food and drink.
“There is a great entrepreneurial spirit that has returned to
the idea of ‘manufacturing’,” he says. “There has been a
progression from the concept of cocktail culture being
inherent to the history of American gastronomy, to actually
producing spirits and related products.”
The distillers are already being embraced by the city’s
best bartenders, who are as keen to use a quality local
alcohol in their cocktails as chefs are to use the best local
produce. From this April, the spirits produced here can be
sold in farmers’ markets, making what are often tricky-todistribute
products much easier to obtain.
It’s been nearly a century since illicit stills supplied the
speakeasies that fuelled New York during the ‘Roaring
Twenties’. Now, once more, New York is the city that never
stops distilling. To celebrate this renaissance we bring you
40 MARCH 2013
FLY TO new york daily. brusselsairlines.com

FLY TO new york daily. brusselsairlines.com
NEW YORK
from the repeal
of the 18th
Amendment in
1933, it took 72
years, for
alcohol to be
distilled again
– or at least
legally – in New
York State
xxxx 2012 41

our guide to the best the city has to offer,
whether that’s gin at Greenpoint, cacao
rum in Red Hook or bourbon in Bushwick.
These modern-day bootleggers even made
it all the way to the Bronx, where you can
enjoy an aged corn whiskey in Woodstock.
THE NOBLE EXPERIMENT
BUSHWICK, BROOKLYN
Started pouring: October 2012.
The hooch: Owney’s NYC, a light rum
named after the notorious bootlegger
Owney Madden, who ran Harlem’s Cotton
Club. “The Noble Experiment” is another
name for Prohibition. Bourbon, rye
whiskey and a dark rum are in the works.
Tours + tastings: Saturdays, reservations
required. tnenyc.com
KINGS COUNTY DISTILLERY
BROOKLYN NAVY YARD
Started pouring: August 2010.
The hooch: Corn whiskey they call
moonshine, and bourbon.
Tours + tastings: Saturdays, reservations
required. kingscountydistillery.com
VAN BRUNT STILLHOUSE
RED HOOK, BROOKLYN
Started pouring: April 2012.
The hooch: A light golden rum called Due
North; a grappa; a whiskey made with
malted barley, wheat, corn and rye.
Tours + tastings: Second Sunday of every
month but tastings on the premises not
currently available, reservations required.
vanbruntstillhouse.com
CACAO PRIETO
RED HOOK, BROOKLYN
Started pouring: April 2012.
The hooch: The world’s only distilled
cacao rum and liqueur (made with
Dominican Republic beans from which
they also produce chocolate); Widow
Jane, an aged bourbon.
Tours + tastings: Seven days a week,
reservations preferred but not required.
cacaoprieto.com
GREENHOOK GINSMITHS
GREENPOINT, BROOKLYN
Started pouring: February 2012.
The hooch: American Dry gin; a beachplum
gin liqueur. A sweeter 19th-centuryinspired
gin on the way.
Tours + tastings: Currently no tours.
greenhookgin.com
we’re talking
artisan spirits,
hipster hooch,
with experimental
recipes being
produced by
hobbyists in small
batches
42 MARCH 2013
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Clockwise from top right: The New York Distilling
Company bar; making rum at Van Brunt Stillhouse;
downtime at Industry City; whiskey barrels at Kings
County distillery; the Brooklyn whiskey trail
Previous page, clockwise from top left: labelling
bottles at Industry City; transferring aged rum at
Van Brunt; Van Brunt bourbon; raw ingredients; Daric
Schlesselman, founder of the Van Brunt Stillhouse;
an historic moment as Prohibition is repealed, 1933
NEW YORK DISTILLING COMPANY
WILLIAMSBURG, BROOKLYN
Started pouring: December 2011.
The hooch: Dorothy Parker American
Gin and Perry’s Tot, a 57% proof “Navystrength
gin” named after Matthew Perry
– not the actor from Friends, but an 1840s
commandant of the Brooklyn Navy Yard.
A rye whiskey is currently being aged.
Tours + tastings: Monday-Thursday,
6-7pm. Next door the distillery’s bar, The
Shanty, is open seven nights a week and
weekend afternoons. nydistilling.com
BREUCKELEN DISTILLING
GREENWOOD HEIGHTS, BROOKLYN
Started pouring: July 2010.
The hooch: Glorious Gin; two varieties of
77 Whiskey, both aged in American oak,
one made from wheat, the other with rye
and corn.
Tours + tastings: Announced on their
website but typically 2pm on Saturdays.
brkdistilling.com
JACK FROM BROOKLYN
RED HOOK, BROOKLYN
Started pouring: May 2012.
The hooch: Sorel, a Caribbean-style
hibiscus liqueur.
Tours + tastings: Saturdays from noon
to 5pm. jackfrombrooklyn.com
INDUSTRY CITY DISTILLERY
SUNSET PARK, BROOKLYN
Started pouring: April 2012.
The hooch: Vodka made with beet sugar.
Tours + tastings: Every Sunday afternoon
by appointment only. drinkicd.com
TIRADO DISTILLERY
WOODSTOCK, THE BRONX
Started pouring: August 2011.
The hooch: Clear corn whiskey; Tirado
Gold, an aged corn whiskey; Tirado El
Caribe, a sweet whiskey; Tirado Black rum;
and Tirado Maple Delight, a fermented
maple syrup.
Tours + tastings: Wednesdays and
Fridays, reservations required.
tiradorum.com
GETTY IMAGES
FR
NL
La révolution de la
boisson à Brooklyn
NEW YORK
Joe Warwick célèbre les nombreuses distilleries artisanales
de New York
Serait-ce un effet secondaire de la Prohibition ? Il aura fallu
72 ans, à compter de l’abrogation du 18 e Amendement en
1933, pour que l’alcool puisse à nouveau être distillé dans
l’Etat de New York, sachant qu’au 19 e siècle – au sommet de
sa prospérité – on y recensait plus de 1 000 distilleries.
En 2005, Tuthilltown Spirits dans la Vallée de l’Hudson,
est la première compagnie à profi ter de ce changement
de législation à New York. Grâce à la reprise de l’accès aux
licences, cette distillerie – la première à rouvrir ses portes
depuis 1920 – a repris progressivement le business de la
production d’alcool.
Bien que les distilleries se soient multipliées dans
l’Etat, c’est dans la ville de New York que le mouvement de
micro-distillerie a réellement pris son essor. Depuis que la
Kings County Distillery, dans le chantier naval de Brooklyn,
a démarré en 2010, le quartier a vu l’arrivée de huit autres
petites unités, et le Bronx, une. New York City recense à
l’heure actuelle 10 distilleries alors qu’elle n’en comptait
aucune, il y a juste un an.
La production de spiritueux va du bourbon au whisky de
seigle et de maïs, en passant par la vodka, le gin et le rhum et
les boissons plus rares, comme la grappa et d’autres liqueurs
à base de cacao ou d’hibiscus. Généralement, ce sont de
petites productions artisanales remises au goût du jour, loin
des volumes industriels.
Les barmans les plus renommés utilisent déjà ces
« élixirs » dans leurs cocktails, privilégiant l’alcool local de
qualité tout comme les chefs, les produits de terroir. Dès ce
mois d’avril, la production de spiritueux pourra être vendue
sur les marchés de producteurs, ce qui les rendra plus faciles
à acquérir.
Pour célébrer cette renaissance, voici un guide de nos
fl eurons fabriqués dans la ville : le gin de Greenpoint, le rhum
cacao de Red Hook ou le bourbon de Bushwick, selon vos
préférences. Ces contrebandiers des temps modernes sont
même remontés jusque dans le Bronx, à Woodstock, où vous
pourrez savourer un sublime whisky de maïs de quelques
ans d’âge.
Brooklyn opnieuw in de
ban van alcohol
Joe Warwick brengt ode aan de talrijke ambachtelijke
New Yorkse destilleerderijen
U kunt het misschien een kater van de Drooglegging noemen.
Liefst 72 jaar na het verbod van het 18de amendement
uit 1933, mag er in de staat New York eindelijk opnieuw
alcohol worden gestookt. In de 19de eeuw beleefde New York
met zijn meer dan 1000 stokerijen zijn absolute topperiode.
In 2005 besloot Tuthilltown Spirits uit de Hudsonvallei
om de nieuwe wet te benutten die het mogelijk maakte om
goedkope stokerijlicenties te bekomen. Het was de eerste
destilleerderij sinds 1920 die openlijk haar activiteiten
bekend maakte en er zouden er nog veel volgen.
Ondertussen zien we overal in de staat meer stokerijen,
maar toch is het in het bijzonder in New York city waar de
kleine destilleerderijen bijval oogsten. Sinds de Kings County
Distillery in 2010 zijn activiteiten opstartte in de Brooklyn
Navy Yard, openden er in de buurt een achttal kleinere
stokerijen. Ook in de Bronx opende een stokerij. Drie jaar
geleden had New York geen enkele destilleerderij, vandaag
heeft het er in totaal dus 10.
De geestrijke drank die er wordt gebrouwen gaat van
bourbon naar whisky’s op basis van rogge en graan, naar gin
en rum of zelfs specialere drankjes zoals grappa en likeuren
op basis van cacao en hibiscus.
De drankjes zijn populair bij de beste barmannen van de
stad, die prat gaan op het bereiden van cocktails op basis
van kwalitatieve, plaatselijk gebrouwen alcohol.
Om deze wedergeboorte te vieren, geven wij u graag een
overzicht van het beste wat de stad te bieden heeft. U kunt gaan
voor een glas gin bij Greenpoint, een rum op basis van cacao bij
Red Hook of bourbon bij Bushwick. Deze moderne dranksmokkelaars
hebben zelfs de weg gevonden tot in de Bronx,
waar u bij Woodstock kunt proeven van een oude graanwhisky.
MARCH 2013
43

!
From crunchy black-eye pea fritters in Senegal to smoked catish in Conakry, African
cuisine offers something for all palates and pockets. Yolanda Zappaterra gets
the inside track on where and what to sample
CONAKRY, GUINEA
Djeli Moussa Condé, Guinean musician,
djelimoussaconde.com
Chez Baba Castille (Quartier Sans Fil, C:
Kaloum) is one of my favourite places to
eat in Conakry. For me it evokes hot nights
in Conakry and good Guinean food, with
traditional dishes made using lots of local
products, and live music – an important
component of Guinean culture. Two typical
Guinean dishes are konkoé touré gbéli,
Illustration Christina Hagerfors
smoked catfish with vegetables, made
with palm oil and served with rice, and
boukhèkhè, or feuille de manioc; cassava
leaf sauce with fish or meat and rice.
MARRAKECH, MOROCCO
Mourad Mazouz, restaurateur,
momoresto.com
To eat like a local in Marrakech, visit Snack
Al Bahria (Boulevard Moulay Rachid,
corner of Rue Mauritanie). It’s a tiny fish
stall with a few outdoor tables where you
choose from the daily catch and have it
cooked in front of you. They also do great
seafood platters with fish and shellfish.
If you’re after grilled meat, Chez
Bejgueni (Rue Ibn Aïcha, Guéliz) is an
institution; every Marrakechi has been
eating there since 1973. Also, Service
Station Al Baraka (RP 24 Commune
Annakhil, Sidi Yousef Ben Ali) does great
beef and chicken tagines, méchoui (slow-
44 march 2013
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ILLUSTRATION: CHRISTINAHAGERFORS.COM

oasted lamb), grills and berber flatbread.
It really is a service station, about 20
minutes outside town on the old Fez route.
KAMPALA, UGANDA (ENTEBBE)
Paula Adhis Rogo, food writer,
chefafrik.com
In the makeshift street kitchens of
Kampala, you should sample the Rolex.
A delicious meal-in-one-dish, its name
derives from “roll of eggs”. It’s a rolled
chapati filled with omelette, cabbage,
onions, tomatoes and green peppers.
COTONOU, BENIN
Gary Thomas, intrepid traveller
Just outside Cotonou at Ouidah, you’ll
find an open-air restaurant called Well
Chic; it’s opposite the entrance to the
Voodoo Museum. It’s just a collection
of tables, chairs, pots and pans and one
smiling chef, whose limited menu is
based on what’s fresh and available. Her
signature dish is an amazing concoction
with whole crabs, fish and eggs with
various meats – usually beef, goat
and/or cowhide. Near the Point of No
Return slavery memorial, the tiny Côté
Pêche (Route des Esclaves, quartier
Brésil) serves great seafood.
Between Cotonou and Abomey, there
are lots of roadside stalls selling bush rat.
All along the roadside people will cook
one up for you, served with local cheese,
pounded cassava and beer. It’s surprisingly
juicy and tender – very tasty, in fact.
NAIROBI, KENYA
Yetunde Osakue-Allison, African food
blogger, avartsycooking.com
As a Nigerian who has dabbled in Kenyan
food, the first two dishes I was introduced
to were nyama choma and ugali. Nyama
choma is simply roasted or grilled meat.
It’s often eaten with a side of Kenyan salsa,
known as kachumbari, or with ugali, a
starchy side made from maize flour. It
has a texture similar to mashed potatoes,
but firmer. You can find nyama choma
and ugali at most street markets and
restaurants, and they serve as a wonderful
introduction to Kenyan food.
MONROVIA, LIBERIA
Elie Calhoun, writer,
africanepicure.com
My two favorite Liberian foods
are kelewele and sweet potato
greens. Kelewele is a spicy
version of fried plantains that
the smiling
chef has a
concoction of
whole crabs,
fish, eggs and
various meats
piles on a heavy dose of ginger and some
hot pepper. Potato greens are the best
way to get your dark leaf greens in Liberia,
and the local version includes fish or
chicken and plenty of deep red palm oil.
You can try both when Pandora’s Basket
takes over Africana (14th Street in Sinkor)
on Thursday nights.
My other tip is the employee-owned
Ministry of Fruit (17th Street and
Cheeseman Avenue), which makes terrific
fresh smoothies from whichever tropical
fruits are in season.
LUANDA, ANGOLA
Claudio Silva, blogger at Luanda
Nightlife, luanda-nightlife.com
There are some superb fish in the city’s
waters, and La Vigia (Rua Nicolau Gomes
Spencer) takes full advantage. It features
an open-air coal grill, where giant groupers
are cooked to juicy perfection.
On the Ilha, a peninsula jutting
out of Luanda Bay, the Luanda
Grill (Rua Murtala Mohamed)
serves great international
cuisine using mostly local
ingredients, and its fourth-floor
lounge offers lovely views of the
bay. For the adventurous, Casa
march 2013 45

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The “best seller” from Italy
KOMMA

do Peixa da Bela (Chicala, Ilha de Luanda)
has the best mufete in town – an Angolan
staple made with grilled fish, beans
and boiled plantains.
DAKAR, SENEGAL
Pierre Thiam, New York-based chef
and author of Yolele! Recipes from the
Heart of Senegal, pierrethiam.com
Growing up in Dakar, dibi Hausa, spicy
lamb skewers served hot from a charcoal
grill, ranked high among my favourite
snacks. They’re coated with Kankan
spice (a mixture of peanuts, cayenne
pepper and ginger), and served with
slices of fresh onion, more Kankan
spices and a baguette. The name comes
from the nomadic Hausa people from
northern Nigeria and Niger, who originally
brought the recipe to Senegal.
Another favourite is accara or black-eye
pea fritters, a crunchy beignet sold at
street corners all over West Africa.
They’re served with a side of cooked
tomato, onion and scotch bonnet pepper
sauce; the sauce will make you sweat,
but it’s worth it.
FREETOWN,
SIERRA LEONE
Paula Adhis Rogo, food
writer, chefafrik.com
Sierra Leone’s Freetown is
the city of sweet cakes.
Walk into any market and
you’ll find endless flavours.
Benni (sesame seed),
black-eye pea
fritters with
scotch bonnet
pepper sauce will
make you sweat,
but it’s worth it
groundnut and ginger cakes are favourites,
but the ultimate is the Kill Driver; a biscuit
so indulgent it is said to force bus drivers
into drowsiness with its richness.
BANJUL, GAMBIA
Kathryn Burrington, graphic
designer at The Gambia Experience,
thegambiablog.co.uk
I can highly recommend Ida Cham-Njai’s
cookery courses, which take place at
her home in Brufut. The day starts with
a visit to the local market to select the
ingredients, then it’s back to Ida’s house
to spend the morning
making lunch. The day
I joined the course, we
cooked fish benechin with
john dory and red snapper,
served with a hot chilli
sauce – which packed
a serious punch.
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NL
Afrikaanse smaken
Yolanda Zappaterra krijgt tips en tricks van insiders
AFRICA
FR
Saveurs africaines
Où manger et quel plat savourer en Afrique ? Yolanda
Zappaterra recueille les bons plans cuisine du continent
Conakry, Guinée Le musicien guinéen Djeli Moussa Condé
(djelimoussaconde.com) adore Chez Baba Castille (Quartier Sans Fil,
C: Kaloum). « Essayez le konkoé touré gbély, du poisson-chat fumé
avec des légumes et du riz. »
Marrakech, Maroc « Pour manger comme les locaux, allez au Snack
Al Bahria, Bd Moulay Rachid » recommande le restaurateur Mourad
Mazouz (momoresto.com). « C’est une petite cantine de poisson
ultra-frais. »
Kampala, Ouganda (Entebbe) « Ne ratez pas le Rolex, un chapati
fourré à l’omelette, au chou, aux oignons, tomates et poivrons verts,
» dit la chroniqueuse culinaire Paula Adhis Rogo (chefafrik.com).
« Un délice des rues de Kampala ! »
Cotonou, Bénin « À l’extérieur de Cotonou, à Ouidah, Well Chic est un
restaurant en plein air, » explique Gary Thomas, voyageur intrépide.
« Le plat attitré de la cuisinière : une étonnante concoction de crabe,
poisson, œufs et viandes. »
Nairobi, Kenya « Nyama choma est simplement de la viande grillée
» explique la bloggeuse africaine Yetunde Osakue-Allison (avartsy.
com). « Dégustée avec de l’ugali, à base de farine de maïs, c’est une
très bonne initiation à la cuisine locale. »
Monrovia, Liberia « Kelewele est une gourmandise de bananes plantains
frits avec du gingembre et du poivre noir, » précise l’auteure Elie
Calhoun (africanepicure.com). « J’apprécie également les verdures
de patates douces, mijotées avec du poisson ou du
poulet et de l’huile de palme rouge. Essayez ce plat à l’Africana
(14e rue à Sinkor). »
Luanda, Angola « La Vigia (Rua Nicolau Gomes Spencer)
prépare les grands mérous à la perfection, » selon Claudio
Silva de luanda-nightlife.com.
Dakar, Sénégal « Les plats préférés de mon enfance à Dakar: dibi
Hausa – brochette d’agneau grillé épicée – et accara, beignets de
haricots noirs croustillants vendus à tous les coins de rue, » nous
confi e le chef Pierre Thiam (pierrethiam.com).
Freetown, Sierra Leone « Freetown est la ville des gâteaux » sourit
Paula Adhis Rogo (site ci-dessus).
Conakry, Guinee Chez Baba Castille is het favorietje van de Guinese
muzikant Djeli Moussa Condé. “Probeer zeker eens de konkoé touré
gbély, gerookte meerval met groenten en rijst.”
Marrakech, Marokko De plaatselijke keuken ontdekken? “Breng
een bezoekje aan Al Bahria Snack op de Boulevard Moulay Rachid”,
adviseert restaurateur Mourad Mazouz. “Het is een piepklein viskraampje
waar de dagelijkse vangst live voor u wordt klaargemaakt.”
Kampala, Oeganda (Entebbe) “Rolex, een chapati gevuld met ei,
kool, ui, tomaten en groene peper, is een echte aanrader. Het wordt
verkocht in de eetkraampjes van Kampala”, aldus food schrijfster
Paula Adhis Rogo. Heerlijk!
Cotonou, Benin “Well Chic is een openluchtrestaurant even buiten
Cotonou in Ouidah”, vertelt de onverschrokken reiziger Gary Thomas.
“De specialiteit van de chef is een heerlijke mix van krab, vis, eieren
en verschillende vleessoorten.”
Nairobi, Kenia “Nyama choma is een gerecht op basis van
geroosterd of gegrild vlees”, zegt de Afrikaanse foodblogger
Yetunde Osakue-Allison. “Op te dienen met een bijgerecht zoals ugali,
gemaakt van maïsbloem. De perfecte eerste kennismaking met de
plaatselijke keuken.
Monrovia, Liberia “Kelewele is een gerecht op basis van gefrituurde
weegbree, gember en pikante pepers”, vertelt de schrijfster Elie
Calhoun. “Ik ben ook helemaal verzot op de bladeren van zoete
aardappelen bereid met vis of kip en rode palmolie. U kunt dit gerecht
uittesten bij Africana.”
Luanda, Angola “Bij La Vigia smult u van gigantische, tot op de
perfectie bereide zeebaars”, aldus Claudio Silva van luanda-nightlife.
com. Bij Casa do Peixa da Bela kunt u terecht voor de beste mufete;
gegrilde vis, bonen en gestoomde weegbree.
Dakar, Senegal “Dibi Hausa, pikant, op houtskool gebakken
lamsvlees, was mijn favoriete snack tijdens mijn kinderjaren in Dakar.
Net zoals accara, knapperige beignets op basis van zwartoogerwten
die overal in de West-Afrikaanse straten worden verkocht”, aldus chefkok
en schrijver Pierre Thiam.
Freetown, Sierra Leone “Freetown staat bekend om zijn gebakjes”,
lacht Paula Adhis Rogo.
march 2013 47

Your holiday in complete serenity
Space
RENTALS :
MOBILE HOMES AND CHALETS
L’Escale Saint Gilles
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11
Le Fief
9
Port'Land
12 Village de la Guyonnière
8
Interlude 13
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14
Well-being
34 holiday destinations
Lac de Panthier
3 2
La Pointe du Médoc
15
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La Ribeyre
Domaine les Ranchisses
Le Soleil Fruité
Le Col Vert
Framissima Nature
16
6 Le Logis d'Orres
Aluna Vacances 4
31
Le Ranc Davaine L'Hippocampe Limone Piemonte
Berrua 17
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Domaine de la Dragonnière Le Clos du Rhône
30
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Le California
19
24 25
33
23 Col d'Ibardin
Les Tropiques
34 22 Les Pins
Les 3 Vallées
21
Le Malazéou
Holiday Green
26
Villaggio
dei Fiori
Perla di Mare
20
Rubina Resort
27
28
Lisa Maria
7
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BOOKING
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Tel. : +33(0)5 57 14 33 60 - Fax : +33(0)5 57 14 33 61
Email : contact@sunelia.com
ONLINE BOOKING : www.sunelia.com
32

Chalet de la Marine,
Val Thorens
H
igh-altitude Val Thorens has
always had a place in the hearts
of die-hard skiers, with most of its
slopes above 2,000 metres and a season
that extends all the way to May. A resort
known for its uncrowded slopes and wide,
well-groomed pistes, Val Thorens is a
haven both for intermediates and off-piste
aficionados, with a plentiful supply of soft
powdery snow providing fresh tracks all
winter long. Add to that the magnificent
5km Cîme de Caron run, a huge snowpark
for boarders and freestylers, plus the
longest toboggan run in France, and
ValTho – as it’s affectionately known
– easily impresses as much as its
fancier neighbours.
But these days the resort is also
garnering a reputation for some of the
best restaurants in the Trois Vallées.
And it’s not just Michelin-standard fine
dining establishments leading the charge.
A fresher, more local, authentic attitude
to food on the slopes is ensuring that
expectations of cuisine are just as high as
HAUTE CUISINE
The lofty peaks of Val Thorens are well known for having the best snow in les Trois Vallées, but
these days the resort is reinventing itself as a foodie mecca, offering everything from Michelin stars
to humble hillside auberges and hotels with rather decent restaurants, inds Jane Wright
they are in the village, as ideas, innovation
and culinary talent are drafted in to shore
up this burgeoning reputation. And most
encouraging of all perhaps, is increasing
evidence of the farmhouse auberge on the
mountain – small eateries created from old
farm buildings which promote simple rustic
food and artisanal local produce that is
home-made and reasonably priced.
Pepe Nicolas is the perfect example: a
little converted hillside barn that serves
traditional Savoyard cuisine to hungry
skiers in a warm, cosy ambience. The
addition of a sweet fluffy St Bernard pup
at the door completes the perfect Alpine
tableau. Expect hearty bowls of thick
soup served with the local Tomme de
Savoie cheese, home-made sausages
with polenta, and Grandma Josephine’s
myrtle and génépi dessert.
At the other end of the scale, Jean
Sulpice’s two-Michelin starred L’Oxalys
wouldn’t look out of place in one of the
world’s great metropolises. The boyishlooking
34-year-old gained his first star at
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just 26 and it’s not hard to see why. This
is precise, inventive cooking, imaginatively
combining textures and flavours that
awaken the palate. Dedicated to the
produce of the Savoyard terroir, the boy
from Aix-les-Bains is the proud owner of the
highest Michelin restaurant in the world and
has several cookbooks to his name. Staff
are drilled to military standards and his
accomplished wife Magali is his sommelier.
The chi-chi set might say Val Thorens
has finally arrived thanks to the recent
addition of its very own Folie Douce (two
other outposts are ensconced in flashier
resorts such as Val d’Isère and Meribel).
A party-party combination of cocktail bar,
restaurant and cabaret show, the Folie
Douce is the staggeringly popular slope-side
destination that draws bright young things
to dance on tables and spend oodles of
cash on champagne and cocktails. And
that’s just during the day.
More interesting, though, is the attached
restaurant La Fruitière, a bastion of
civilised calm and grown-up dining in
march 2013 49

SKIING
contrast to the frenetic atmosphere
beyond its doors. Refined dishes such as
ravioli stuffed with foie gras, excellent local
bread, a seriously good cheese board and
charming, knowledgable staff all combine
to make this a lunch experience to savour.
On colder days, Chalet de la Marine on
the Dalles piste is a great stop-off for lunch,
with its cosy Alpine-style dining room and
huge blazing fire in the corner. Nearby
there’s also a surprisingly toasty yurt with
a woodburning stove and rugs for snuggling
under while enjoying a Kir or two. The
restaurant is famous for its steaks and
traditional mountain fare such as tartiflette
(lardons, onion and potato cooked in
cream) and pot-au-feu (a tasty, slowcooked
pot roast of meat and vegetables).
But best of all is its expansive dessert
table offering a wickedly tempting array
of tarts, cakes and chocolate delights.
It may be wise to take a gentle blue run
home afterwards.
But the best indication that ValTho is on
the up is the existence of its latest prize
hotel offering, the Altapura. Part of the
classy Sibuet Hotel group, the self-styled
‘Highest Palace in the Alps’ has clearly
upped the ante, prompting a rash of new
luxury developments including the ambitious
Koh-i-Nor (sic) due to open this December.
The Altapura has been imaginatively
designed with wit, warmth and originality,
offering spacious bedrooms with mountain
views and attractive, airy public spaces.
The look is stylishly Scandinavian – lots of
wood, slate and textured furnishings, big
open funnel fires and a few nice artistic
flourishes such as the multi-coloured
collection of vintage wooden skis attached
to the lower lobby wall. In the spa the walls
are lined with real birch trunks – a rather
lovely way of bringing nature inside.
At its fine-dining restaurant L’Enfant
Terrible, the Altapura prides itself on its
comprehensive menu, with a whole section
devoted to black truffles (a heavenly
ramekin of mashed potato mixed with cream
and black truffle is the stand-out dish), a
magnificent seafood counter, and a wine
list that showcases local Savoie vineyards.
Clearly, with Altapura setting a new
standard for food and hospitality in the
resort, Val Thorens can look forward to living
up to its new-found gourmet reputation.
Altapura Val Thorens, doubles from €250
with breakfast, altapura.fr; chezpepenicolas.
com; lafoliedouce.com; restaurantloxalyis.com;
chaletmarine.com
Delicate fl avours
from L’Oxalys
A tradtional
tartifl ette
two more in the three valleys
Courchevel
Romantically calling itself “the last chalet before the stars”,
the fi ve-star La Sivolière is a small, beautifully appointed
traditional Savoyard-style chalet hotel. Suites with open
fi res, a sublime spa, ski-in-ski-out privileges and a chap
to take your boots off in the evening all signal that this is
a place that takes the needs and desires of its guests
seriously. The fabulous interiors make use of local wood,
slate and stone, and the decor is a combination of muted
shades and electric splashes of colour, with eclectic pieces
of art and nods to local tradition in the public areas. Chef
Billal Amrani’s degustation menu is not to be missed, served
in the candlelit dining room overlooking moonlit pine trees.
Classic double rooms from €400. hotel-la-sivoliere.com
Meribel
This lively, attractive resort’s fi rst fi ve-star hotel, the Kaïla,
opened this season, but there are plenty of reasonably
priced options, such as the Eterlou and Tremplin which has
cosy rooms, hearty breakfasts and a lovely steamy outdoor
pool. For the best après-ski fun, stop off for some toffee
vodka at the (in)famous Rond Point bar on your last run
home. For dinner, nowhere in Meribel does steaks better
than Chez Kiki. lekaila.com; chaudanne.com; chez-kiki.fr
The Altapura,
Val Thorens
La Sivolière,
Courchevel
50 march 2013
FLY TO geneva seven times daily. FLY TO lyon three times daily. brusselsairlines.com
Meribel

FR
Haute cuisine
Val Thorens, prochaine station gastronomique ? Un reportage de Jane
Wright
Station de ski la plus haute d’Europe, Val Thorens n’est pas seulement la préférée
des amateurs de glisse. Elle commence également à se tailler une réputation de haut
lieu de la gastronomie dans le domaine des Trois Vallées. En témoignent ses
établissements étoilés au Michelin, mais pas seulement. Une approche plus locale et
authentique de la cuisine est en train de voir le jour.
Pepe Nicolas en est un parfait exemple. Sa petite grange reconvertie à fl anc de
coteau sert une cuisine savoyarde traditionnelle aux skieurs affamés, dans une
ambiance chaleureuse. A l’autre extrémité, on trouve l’Oxalys avec deux étoiles au
Michelin. Aux commandes, le jeune chef Jean Sulpice, 34 ans, qui a gagné sa première
étoile à l’âge de 26 ans seulement. L’on comprend aisément pourquoi. Sa cuisine
combine à merveille recettes saines et inventive, mélangeant avec imagination les
textures pour le plus grand plaisir de la découverte de nouvelles saveurs.
La Fruitière, à La Folie Douce, est un havre de calme, qui contraste avec
l’atmosphère de fête qui règne au-delà des ses portes. Ses plats raffi nés tels les
raviolis au foie gras et son délicieux plateau de fromages en font une adresse de
choix pour le lunch.
Célèbre pour ses recettes montagnardes typiques comme la tartifl ette et le pot au
feu, le Chalet de la Marine, sur la piste des Dalles, est une halte prisée pour le
déjeuner, avec sa confortable salle à manger de style alpin et son feu ouvert.
Station d’exception, Val Thorens ajoute l’Altapura - le dernier fl euron du groupe
Sibuet - à son offre hôtelière. Ce « plus haut palace des Alpes » comblera les
amoureux d’un certain art de vivre, avec son ambiance feutrée, son design original et
ses chambres aux volumes généreux avec vue sur les cimes.
Dans son restaurant chic, L’Enfant Terrible, l’Altapura revisite les saveurs classiques
et propose une section dédiée aux truffes noires, un sublime comptoir de fruits de
mer et une carte des vins, incluant des cépages issus de vignobles de la Savoie.
Altapura Val Thorens, chambres doubles à partir de 250 €, petit déjeuner inclus,
altapura.fr; chezpepenicolas.com; lafoliedouce.com; restaurantloxalyis.com;
chaletmarine.com
Courchevel Le magnifi que hôtel de luxe 5* La Sivoliere est conçu dans le style
traditionnel des chalets savoyards. Ne manquez pas le menu dégustation du chef
Billal Amrani, servi dans la salle à manger éclairée aux chandelles. Chambres
doubles classiques à partir de 400 €. hotel-la-sivoliere.com
Méribel Le Kaïla, l’hôtel 5* de la station a ouvert cette saison, mais d’autres options
moins coûteuses s’offrent aux visiteurs, tel que l’Eterlou et le Tremplin, qui dispose
de chambres confortables et d’une piscine extérieure chauffée. Mangez absolument
Chez Kiki pour les meilleurs steaks.
lekaila.com; chaudanne.com; chez-kiki.fr
NL
Haute cuisine
Jane Wright vertelt hoe Val Thorens bezig is aan een opmars als
skibestemming voor foodies
Val Thorens ligt op grote hoogte en staat niet enkel bekend om zijn uitstekende
sneeuwkwaliteit. Momenteel staat het skiresort eveneens bekend omwille van zijn
restaurants, waarvan sommige tot de beste uit het Trois Vallées gebied zouden behoren.
Het zijn trouwens niet alleen de Michelinster waardige restaurants die verantwoordelijk
zijn voor deze opmars. Ook de plaatselijke keuken vindt de nodige bijval.
Pepe Nicolas is hiervan het perfecte voorbeeld. In deze voormalige schuur
gevestigd op een helling, worden Savoyardische gerechten opgediend in een warm
en gezellig kader. Daartegenover staat het tweesterrenrestaurant L’Oxalys van Jean
Sulpice. Deze 34-jarige, jeugdig uitziende kok kreeg zijn eerste Michelinster op zijn
26ste en dat is niet te verwonderen. Dit is creatief koken op het scherp van de snede
waarbij verrassende texturen en smaken worden gecombineerd.
In La Foulie Douce biedt La Fruitière een rustig alternatief en toevluchtsoord voor
het feestgedruis van buiten. Op het menu staan verfi jnde gerechten zoals ravioli
gevuld met ganzenlever en een uitstekende kaasplank. Een unieke lunchervaring!
Chalet de la Marine ligt aan de piste van Dalles en biedt een gezellige eetkamer in
typische Alpenstijl, inclusief een openhaard. Het staat bekend om zijn typische
skigerechten zoals tartifl ette en pot au feu. Een aanrader voor de lunch!
Het onlangs geopende Altapura luxehotel biedt het beste bewijs dat Val Thorens
hip is. Dit hotel maakt deel uit van de upscale Sibuet Hotelketen. Het noemt zichzelf
het “Hoogste Paleis in de Alpen” en baadt in het wit. Een gezellig en origineel hotel
met enorme kamers met zicht op de bergen en aantrekkelijke, grote open ruimtes.
In L’Enfant Terrible, het toprestaurant van het Altapura hotel, biedt een selectie
zwarte truffels, zeevruchten en een wijnkaart met plaatselijke Savoyardische pareltjes.
Altapura Val Thorens, dubbele kamers vanaf € 250 inclusief ontbijt, altapura.fr;
chezpepenicolas.com; lafoliedouce.com; restaurantloxalyis.com; chaletmarine.com
Courchevel La Sivolière is een klein maar prachtig chalethotel met vijf sterren in
traditionele Savoyardische stijl. Mis zeker het fi jnproevermenu van chef-kok Billal
Amrani niet. Het wordt opgediend in de met kaarsen verlichte eetkamer. Een
klassieke dubbele kamer kan al vanaf € 400. hotel-la-sivoliere.com
Meribel Dit seizoen opende Kaïli, het vijfsterrenhotel van dit skigebied, zijn deuren.
Er zijn echter tal van goedkopere alternatieven zoals het Eterlou en Tremplin hotel
die beide over gezellige kamers en een verwarmd buitenzwembad beschikken. Een
steakliefhebber? Ga zeker eens langs bij Chez Kiki.
lekaila.com; chaudanne.com; chez-kiki.fr
BIG & TALL
THE BIG AND TALL
SIZES SPECIALIST
A veritable institution,
specialising in the art of
dressing tall and large
men from head to toe.
Avenue Louise 160A Louizalaan
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T 02 649 34 81
Brussels - Ghent
www.gulliver1985.com

The high-rise of
City-dwellers are embracing their space and getting closer to the elements with the concept
of vertical farming. Boyd Farrow discovers how rooftop veg may be just an elevator ride away

W
hile New York’s High Line – a
shard of greenery slicing through
the metropolis – has captured the
imagination, some people believe that
within the next decade visitors to New York
will barely bat an eyelid at vegetables being
grown – and maybe even livestock being
reared – high above the glass and steel
canyons of Manhattan.
New York is at the vanguard of vertical
farming, a global revolution that its
advocates claim will soon change the way
that city dwellers get their food. The theory
is that instead of trucking food into cities
from farms, at a massive environmental
cost, it can be grown in huge greenhouses,
hundreds of metres above the city streets.
The last few years have seen a gold-rush
by companies to bag rights to any
serviceable plots. There are already
hydroponic (plants grown in water)
greenhouses on rooftops in Brooklyn,
Queens and the Bronx, producing basil,
lettuce and bok choy for retailers such as
Left and far left:
Brooklyn Grange
grows tomatoes,
spring onions
and squash at
its 6,000m2 roof
farm at the old
Brooklyn Navy
Yard in New
York. Below left:
Rooftop produce
on sale. Below:
Vegetables
PA
fl ourish up on
the roof away
from pollution EYEVINE;
Whole Foods and FreshDirect. One rooftop
farming pioneer, Brooklyn Grange, has a
6,000m² roof farm at the Brooklyn Navy
Yard that grows tomatoes, spring onions
and squashes, and a one-acre rooftop in
Long Island, Queens.
Another, BrightFarms, is creating a
hydroponic greenhouse on a roof in Sunset
Park, Brooklyn, which chief executive Paul
Lightfoot claims will grow more than half
a million kilogrammes of produce a year,
including tomatoes, lettuce and herbs.
Its aim is to “grow enough crops to meet
the fresh vegetable consumption needs
of up to 5,000 New Yorkers, to create
jobs, and to prevent as much as 6.8
million litres of storm water from going
into local waterways.”
While the emphasis is on the local, the
principle of urban gardening is global.
Similar schemes proliferate in other United
States cities such as Milwaukee and
Chicago and the first commercial-scale
vertical farm recently opened in Singapore.
March 2013 53

54
BUSINESS
Neat rows of fruit bushes and salad leaves on a
rooftop at the old Navy Yard in Brooklyn, New York
Several projects involving hydroponics and
aquaponics (where aquatic life is integrated
into the process) are also flourishing in
European cities such as Amsterdam,
Rome, Milan, Barcelona and Lyon.
While urban farming has been popular
across Germany for a few years, Berlin
has undoubtedly been the movement’s
poster child. A variety of crops have been
grown on a 6,000m² former wasteland
in Kreuzberg since the summer of 2009.
The Prinzessinnengärten, as it is now
known, is an agricultura urbana, a phrase
coined by the vegetable production and
urban community.
Now, the Frisch vom Dach (Fresh
from the Roof) project plans to create a
7,000m² garden on the roof of a former
malt factory in the Schöneberg district
of Berlin, complete with a fish farm, to
provide sustainable, locally grown food.
“Humankind is driving fast into a wall,”
Frisch vom Dach co-founder Nicolas
Leschke warned German newspaper
Spiegel when the plans were first
announced. “Global resources are
running out. With so many people
living in cities, we need to think locally.”
The Retina Project in Brussels is
doing just that. One of Europe’s smallest
experimental schemes, an infrastructure
created for the top of a family house
has been designed to provide optimal
march 2013
people are starting to
embrace this business. a
lot of what is going on
in cities like new york is
being integrated into
urban planning policy
conditions for plants to grow. There are
also ambitious plans by the Sustainable
City project for a roof farm on the site of
the old Anderlecht abattoir in the capital.
Elsewhere on the continent, one of
the most ambitious projects under
construction is a farm in Linköping, 175km
from Stockholm. At 12 storeys high, this
will be one of the tallest vertical farms in
the world. The company behind the farm,
Sweden’s Plantagon, intends to sell its
produce at a local farmers’ market, while
leasing out office space on most floors.
Outside the office windows, a
mechanical track enclosed in its own
layer of glass will carry growing plants
from the top of the building to the bottom,
giving them even exposure to sunlight.
The company plans to plant and harvest
300,000kg to 500,000kg of greens a year.
Andre Viljoen, a leading figure in the
fields of urban food production,
architecture and urban design, says that
the momentum of urban farming will grow
as more of us live in cities and resources
become ever more valuable. “In 2005,
cash-strapped and facing a shortage of
land, Cuba was the prototype; now it’s
the US and Europe,” he explains. “The
movement grew out of social and public
health agendas, but now it increasingly
involves commercial enterprises too.”
Viljoen’s work for his London-based firm,
Bohn & Viljoen, brings him into contact
with pioneering urban agricultural projects
throughout the world. “There’s a new wave
of green-conscious, media-savvy graduates,
embracing this as a business,” he says.
“At the same time, a lot of what is going
on in many cities, like New York, is being
integrated into urban planning policy.”
Neatly illustrating his point, Copenhagen
recently became the first city in Scandinavia
to have a mandatory green (vegetation
and soil) roof policy when planning new
developments. It may not be too long
before this approach takes root
throughout Europe.
FR La ferme en ville
Boyd Farrow se penche sur les bénéfi ces de
l’agriculture verticale
Tandis que la High Line de New York – ce tronçon de végétation
qui traverse la métropole – a conquis les imaginations, certains
spécialistes pensent qu’endéans la prochaine décennie, les
touristes qui visitent Manhattan s’étonneront à peine en voyant
légumes et bétail au sommet de la plupart de ses tours de verre.
La Grosse Pomme est à l’avant-garde de l’agriculture verticale,
une révolution planétaire qui devrait bientôt changer la façon
dont les citadins s’approvisionnent. Le raisonnement est le
suivant : plutôt que d’amener, par camions entiers et à grand
coût environnemental, des produits de la ferme à la ville, ces
aliments peuvent très bien être cultivés dans d’énormes serres,
en hauteur.
Bien qu’il soit « local », ce principe de l’agriculture urbaine est
« global ». Des projets impliquant hydroponie (cultures hors-sol)
et aquaponie (qui intègre la vie aquatique dans le processus), se
sont mis à pousser dans des villes telles qu’Amsterdam, Rome,
Milan, Barcelone ou Lyon. Si l’agriculture urbaine est prisée en
Allemagne depuis quelques années maintenant, c’est Berlin qui
a servi de modèle à ce mouvement. Ainsi, depuis l’été 2009, une
large variété de cultures pousse dans le Prinzessinnengärten, un
site de 6.000 m² à Kreuzberg. Actuellement, le projet Frisch
vom Dach (littéralement « tout frais du toit ») prévoit de créer
un jardin de 7.000 m² sur le toit d’une ancienne malterie dans le
district de Schöneberg, complété d’une pisciculture.
Il n’y a certainement pas plus local que le projet
« Rétine », dans la banlieue de Bruxelles. Il s’agit d’un des plus
petits schémas expérimentaux en Europe, sur le toit d’une
maison unifamiliale, conçu pour procurer les meilleures
conditions de lumière, d’air et d’eau, et permettre ainsi aux
plantes de pousser.
Plus loin, la ferme triangulaire de Linköping de l’entreprise
Plantagon, à 175 km de Stockholm, est l’un des projets les plus
ambitieux en cours de réalisation. Avec ses 12 étages, ce sera
l’une des fermes verticales les plus hautes au monde.
Enfi n, Copenhague est, depuis peu, la première ville de
Scandinavie à imposer la présence de végétation et de cultures
dans le développement de nouveaux projets architecturaux. Et
l’on pourrait bien voir, sans trop tarder, émerger de telles
politiques dans le reste de l’Europe.
NL
De opmars van de
stadsboerderij
Boyd Farrow ontdekt de voordelen van verticale landbouw
Hoewel het New Yorkse High Line project tot de verbeelding
spreekt, geloven sommigen echter dat bezoekers de komende
tien jaar nauwelijks nog versteld zullen staan wanneer ze hoog
boven de glazen torens van Manhattan her en der
zelfgekweekte groenten en vee zien uittorenen.
De Big Apple vormt de voorhoede van verticale landbouw,
een wereldwijde trend die al snel de manier waarop
stedelingen hun voedingsmiddelen bekomen zal veranderen.
Het idee bestaat erin om voedingsmiddelen te kweken in
enorme serres die duizenden meter boven de stadsstraten
uittorenen.
Commerciële projecten op basis van hydro- en aquacultuur
(projecten met geïntegreerd onderwaterleven) zijn aan een
opmars bezig in steden zoals Amsterdam, Rome, Milaan,
Barcelona en Lyon.
Hoewel we de laatste jaren overal in Duitsland stedelijke
landbouwprojecten zagen verschijnen, is het ongetwijfeld
Berlijn die deze beweging in gang stak. In Kreuzberg wordt op
Prinzessinnengärten, een 6.000m² groot terrein, al sinds de
zomer van 2009 een brede waaier aan gewassen geteeld.
Momenteel plant het Frisch vom Dach (Vers van het Dak)
project in de wijk Schöneberg de aanleg van een 7.000m² tuin
- inclusief een viskwekerij - bovenop het dak van een
voormalige moutfabriek. Doel? Het kweken van duurzame,
plaatselijk geteelde voeding.
Het Retina Project in een Brusselse buitenwijk is een 100%
plaatselijk project. Op het dak van een gezinswoning werd een
speciale structuur geïnstalleerd om optimale licht-, lucht- en
wateromstandigheden voor planten te creëren.
Elders in de wereld zien we op 175 km van Stockholm het
ambitieuze project Linköping, een driehoekige boerderij. Met
zijn 12 verdiepingen wordt dit een van ’s werelds grootste
verticale boerderijen.
FLY TO new york JFK daily; and 50 european destinations from brussels. brusselsairlines.com

Celebrating 40 years of
student success!
www.ssb.be
* Now open to international students!

56
theBusiness
Boyd Farrow rounds up the latest news from the business world around the network
A few coins in the fountain
The crucial but expensive protection of Rome’s Trevi
Fountain is looking more assured following a €2.12m
donation by luxury label Fendi to restore the famous water
feature. The company, which was founded in Rome, has
pledged to finance the Trevi’s entire two-year restoration
as well as the renovation of the Four Fountains sculpture
on the nearby Via XX Settembre.
The former is expected to be completed in 2015 while
work on the latter is expected to be put to tender this
March 2013
autumn. “The restoration of the Trevi Fountain shows the
importance of cooperation between public and private
support,” said Mayor Alemanno at a media conference
with Silvia Venturini Fendi and designer Karl Lagerfeld,
the label’s creative director.
Despite concerns about artistic integrity, Italy’s
impoverished cultural authorities are increasingly courting
commercial benefactors. Last year the city of Rome was
forced to carry out emergency work costing €320,000 after
a piece of the fountain fell off, and Alemanno appealed to
companies and individuals to help save the monument.
On your marks
A year after it opened a new store on the Champs-Elysées
in Paris, it appears that Marks & Spencer is also planning to
open an outpost in the heart of Brussels. A report in Belgian
financial daily L’Echo asserts that “the first M&S store of the
new generation” will open its doors in the scrubbed-up Toison
d’Or shopping mall in the Louise district, which has recently
wooed names such as Abercrombie & Fitch, Burberry and
Bose, plus a new Sofitel hotel.
Last November, M&S returned to Belgium, as well as to
Germany and Austria, with localised websites offering 15,000
products, after high demand from the countries’ customers.
L’Echo says that while the Brussels store will sell clothes, home
appliances and food, there wiil be a base in the Koningsstraat,
which will act as a dispatching hub and staff recruitment centre.
Ten years ago, M&S shuttered all 38 West European outlets
to focus on Asia, the Middle East and the emerging East
European market, while shoring up its domestic position.
in
digits
€2bn
The combined
turnover of the
18 clubs that make
up Germany’s
Bundesliga. According
to the German
Football League, 2012
was the fi rst time this
fi gure was reached
in the league’s
50-year history.
10,000
The number of
crowns citizens in the
Czech Republic will
have to pay for a
month’s supply of
marijuana, following
legalisation of use of
the drug for medical
purposes. The average
gross monthly wage
in the country is
26,000 crowns.
€1.3bn
The amount Ford
lost in Europe in
2012 despite
posting decent
fi nancial results
everywhere else.
96.5m
The number of
hectolitres of beer
brewed in Germany
last year, down nearly
2% from 2011 and
the lowest amount
since reunifi cation,
says the Federal
Statistics Offi ce.
GETTY IMAGES

Happy Danes
Now we know why the Danes usually rank as the happiest people.
According to Statistics Denmark, Danes are working about three
hours a week less than the already low 37 they had previously
calculated. “We significantly overestimated the number of hours
that Danes are working,” Sven Egmose, the head of Statistics
Denmark, informed Politiken newspaper.
In the past, numbers were reported yearly by employers who
gave bulk figures on their entire workforce. The new measurement
looks at the monthly hours for which individual employees are paid.
In a response worthy of a politician in the TV show Borgen, Harold
Børsting, head of the Danish trade union confederation says the drop
in hours was a positive trend because it showed that Danish workers
were productive at work.
Hours after Statistics Denmark’s announcement, German Labour
Minister Ursula von der Leyen pleaded for solutions to workplace stress,
citing new study Stress Report Germany 2012,
which claimed that stress was responsible
for Germany losing 59mn days of work
in 2011 and €6bn a year.
According to the study, 43% of
workers believe that their jobs have
become more stressful in the past
two years. Notably, stress has
increased more than 80% in the last
15 years. Causes of stress include an
increased focus on multi-tasking and
emails interrupting workflows.
YOU ARE HERE
Park life
Residents of Moscow may soon be enjoying new parklands thanks to
City Hall’s decision to plant greenery on many disused construction
sites. Noting President Putin’s new eco-bent, Moscow’s construction
investment committee has cancelled leases on six undeveloped sites
around the city and is landscaping them instead.
The new parkland includes a site in the middle of the Moscow Ring Road
that was leased to a company in 2000 to build an automotive services
complex. In January 2012, when Putin was Prime Minister, he ordered
Moscow Mayor Sergei Sobyanin to turn wasteland that was once the site
of the Rossiya hotel, into a park. But can Moscow afford all this new
greenery when there is such a shortage of homes? Vedomosti newspaper
reports that the authorities have a plan to develop a 20km² district in
Molzhaninovo, in the north of the capital, into a satellite town with an
industrial park, transport hub and other infrastructure, creating up to
70,000 local jobs. The €3.6bn project will take at least five years to build. GETTY IMAGES
Rue Pierre Fatio 3
CH-1204 Genève, Suisse
t: +41 22 707 09 09 f: +41 22 707 09 10
Gerbergasse 1 (Am Marktplatz)
CH-4001 Basel, Schweiz
t: +41 61 260 31 31 f: +41 61 260 31 39
info@banquethaler.ch www.banquethaler.ch

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The Egg
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Le Délire Parisien
Restaurant
Situated on a famous pedestrian
street close to the Place Louise,
this Brussels restaurant offers an
atmospheric setting throughout the
year, as well as a charming terrace.
Owner Flavio is on hand to assist
with choices to suit your taste and
budget. The menu is infl uenced by
seasonal fare and driven by the
fresh produce delivered daily.
Based upon your requirements,
Flavio can suggest a perfectly
balanced food and wine combination.
By trusting in him, you will be
guided by a graduate of one of
the world’s most renowned hotel
schools (Glion-Montreux,
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TIO3
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and inspirational meetings,
Hilton Antwerp
Meetings & Congress
The 210-bedroom Hilton Antwerp is
located in the heart of this historic
city, overlooking the charming
Groenplaats and the Cathedral of
Our Lady. Just steps away from
world-class shopping, museums and
picturesque streets, the Hilton
Antwerp creates a tranquil
environment in the centre of this
vibrant and cosmopolitan city. From
the moment you walk through the
door, you enter a world of luxury,
serenity, style and comfort.
The hotel is easily reached with
a short fl ight from London or
Manchester. Alternatively, guests
can enjoy the convenience of a new
34-minute direct train link between
Brussels Airport and Antwerp
Central Station.
With 2,600m2 of fl exible space,
including a splendid 1,200m2 Belle
PROMOTION \\\
exhibitions and events for two
to 400 people.
TIO3 can offer high-quality
audiovisual equipment for your
event, as well as a fantastic
in-house catering service, with an
eye for seasonal and local produce.
Residential, seminar and
incentive packages are available
upon request.
60 Oscar Delghuststraat, Ronse
+32 55 21 80 07
tio3.be
Epoque ballroom, the Hilton
Antwerp is a unique setting for
events of all sizes up to 1,200
guests. The 13 meeting rooms all
feature natural daylight and have
direct access to the Business
Centre. Plus, there is a dedicated
Hilton Meetings team always on
hand, who are happy to take care of
every detail to ensure that your
event is successful and hassle-free.
After the meeting, you can then
relax in spacious rooms starting at
28m2 . Pamper your VIPs with an
Executive room or suite, with access
to the Executive Lounge, where free
drinks and snacks are available
throughout the day. Additionally, a
private terrace offers a breathtaking
view over the Groenplaats. For a
tailor-made offer, contact the
hotel’s Conference & Events team.
+32 3 204 8285
antwerp.events@hilton.com

PROMOTION
Marseille Blue
Attraction
Endowed with an exceptional set of qualities that
make it popular with tourists, such as a stunning
natural location, 300 days of sunshine a year,
picturesque neighbourhoods and easy access,
Marseille can be considered a true jewel of the
Mediterranean. And its attraction is set to increase
even further as Marseille-Provence becomes the
2013 European Capital of Culture.
For the past 15 years, the city of Marseille and its
partners in the public and private sectors have been
Brussels44Center
Conferences
Located in the heart of Brussels in Passage 44,
the Brussels44Center offers fi ve venues of
different shapes and sizes, ensuring that your
event – be it a conference, congress, show or gala
– will be held under optimal conditions. The
Auditorium has 768 seated places and a lobby
that can hold up to 400 people. The Jacques Brel
venue has 156 seated places, while Maeterlinck,
working together to make the city the Mediterranean
destination of choice for business tourism. More
than €660m has been invested across a wide range
of sectors, vaulting Marseille into its well-deserved
place among the great European metropolises.
Since February, the Palais du Pharo, a prestigious
building originally built by Napoleon III, has offered 10
new conference rooms, including a large meeting hall
for 300 people to go with its reception area seating
1,000 and a terrace overlooking the sea and the Old Port.
Contact them to organise your perfect event in Marseille.
cfreani@marseille-tourisme.com
next door, can act as a reception area for a
conference or seminar. Finally, the Atrium, with its
modernist architecture, can give your event that
little je ne sais quoi: there is standing room for up
to 350 or 240 seated for dinner. For mega-events,
all venues can be jointly hired and Passage 44 will
be decorated in the event colours.
44 Boulevard du Jardin Botanique, Brussels
+32 2 222 84 99, b44c.com,
info@b44c.com
Top picks
All4theEU
All 4 the EU shapes your events and
ideas into a successful event by
providing the necessary knowledge,
staff and logistical support. They
can produce video materials and
advertisements using 3D animation.
+32 471 111 468
All4theEU.com
Sweets Company
Happy employees work better, and
a creative team-building workshop
from Sweets Company can do
wonders for company morale.
Featuring activities based around
chocolate, they can be staged at
any location. sweetscompany.be
info@sweetscompany.be
Le Manoir du Capitaine
Located in the heart of Belgium’s
greenest landscapes, close to the
motorway, Le Manoir du Capitaine
offers 11 quiet, multifunctional,
accessible rooms and suites for
seminars, meetings or banquets.
+32 67 87 45 40
manoirducapitaine.com

The Good Life
Hubert de Bellefroid & Alexandre de Bergeyck
welcome you everyday except on Sundays
The Lodge - Restaurant & Bar-Club I Rue des Pêcheries 2 I 1170 Brussels
Reservation : +32 2 662 26 66 I e-mail : info@the-lodge.be I website : www.the-lodge.be
© Mireille Roobaert

PROMOTION
Mougins School
Offering the internationally
acknowledged British curriculum
adapted for international
students, Mougins School has a
track record for academic success
while maintaining a strong
emphasis on sport and the arts,
and is dedicated to nurturing
individual development.
The custom-built campus, in
a green environment at the heart
of Sophia Antipolis near Cannes,
provides state-of-the-art facilities
for more than 500 students aged
between three and 18, of over
40 nationalities. The building
programme, which will be
completed in 2013, includes four
TOP OF THE CLASS
Give your child the best possible start to life with an
international education that is second to none
science laboratories, two ICT
suites, a magnifi cent gymnasium,
a performing arts centre, two
art studios, music rooms and
a well-equipped library, as well as
a dining room serving up freshly
cooked fare.
With their IGCSE, AS and
A-Level qualifi cations, students
can then enter prestigious
universities all over the world, or
go directly into the workplace
armed with the skills and
competence they have gained in an
academically excellent and caring
international environment.
+33 4 93 90 15 47
information@mougins-school.com
mougins-school.com
PICTURE
YOURSELF
HERE
Now imagine where your BU degree
will take you.
BU in Brussels—
Innovative leadership education
in the heart of the EU.
Classes start April 22, 2013.
bu.edu/brussels
Boulevard du Triomphe, 174, Triomflaan, B-1160 Brussels
+32 (0)2 640 74 74
An equal opportunity, affirmative action institution.

FOUR CORNERS
bru bcn txl bud edi gva ncl osl tlv vce vno
city
guides
Explore destinations across the Brussels Airlines
network with the help of our essential guides.
Our local writers uncover the best each city has
to offer every month – so don’t forget to take
your copy of b.there magazine with you
Oslo’s waterfront is a
popular place for people
watching while enjoying
a late-night drink
BRUSSELS AIRLINES FLIES FROM:
BRUSSELS BELGIUM P64
INCLUDING A DOUBLE BELGIAN
CITY FOCUS ON:
KORTRIJK BELGIUM P68
STAVELOT BELGIUM P70
FLY TO 50 european destinations from brussels. brusselsairlines.com
OSLO *
STOCKHOLM BROMMA *
* GOTHENBURG
* NEWCASTLE
*
BIRMINGHAM*
MANCHESTER *
BRISTOL *
HAMBURG
* PRAGUE
* BERLIN
* LONDON
*
HEATHROW
COPENHAGEN
* BRUSSELS
* HANNOVER
* EDINBURGH
VIENNA *
*
BILBAO *
BUDAPEST
* NICE
* BOLOGNA * VENICE
PORTO *
* MADRID
* TURIN
MARSEILLE
TOULOUSE *
*
* BARCELONA
STRASBOURG *
GENEVA
LYON *
* * MILAN-MALPENSA/MILAN-LINATE
* BASEL
* ROME
FLORENCE *
NAPLES *
LAMEZIA TERME *
PALERMO *
* CATANIA
LISBON *
FARO * MALAGA*
TO 50 PREMIUM EUROPEAN DESTINATIONS INCLUDING:
BARCELONA SPAIN P72
BERLIN GERMANY P74
BUDAPEST HUNGARY P75
EDINBURGH UNITED KINGDOM P76
GENEVA SWITZERLAND P78
MOSCOW DOMODEDOVO *
* VILNIUS
TEL AVIV *
NEWCASTLE UNITED KINGDOM P79
OSLO NORWAY P80
TEL AVIV ISRAEL P82
VENICE ITALY P83
VILNIUS LITHUANIA P84
march 2013 63

u u
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brussels
belgium
10,438,353
Euro (EUR)
+32 6°C
emma beddington
There’s been a flurry of new openings in
Brussels, from hotels to art exhibitions
SABLON
Place du Sablon is one of Brussels’
most beautiful squares – and with
a weekend antiques market and a
wealth of good bars and shops, it’s
the perfect place to wander.
SLEEP In a vast modern tower
overlooking Egmont Park, The Hotel
(Boulevard de Waterloo 38, (0)504
3335, thehotel-brussels.be, rooms
from €125) is both elegant and
well-equipped. Most rooms have a
breathtaking view over the city, and
there’s a buzzy 24th-floor bar and
an excellent spa and fitness centre.
EAT L’Ecailler du Palais Royal (Rue
Bodenbroek 18, (0)512 8751) is one
of Brussels’ classic special-occasion
restaurants: set in a 17th-century brick
house on the Grand Sablon, it has crisp
white tablecloths, sublime seafood and
wonderful views over the square.
CULTURE The ING Cultural Centre
(Place Royale 6) is currently hosting
Yves Saint Laurent: Visionary, an
exhibition of the designer’s most
revolutionary creations, from the paper
dolls he created as an adolescent to
the famous ‘Smoking’. The Brussels
Conservatoire (Rue de la Régence 30)
INFO
Brussels Airport
is 11km north east
of the city, in
Zaventem.
Train
Trains from Brussels
Airport depart from
Terminal-1 every 15
minutes at peak
times for the three
main city centre
stations. The journey
takes around 25
minutes and public
transport day passes
cost €4.50.
Bus
The bus station
is one level below
the arrivals hall.
Bus services 12
(weekdays) and
21 (evenings and
weekends) to the
city centre depart
every 30 minutes;
one-way tickets
cost €3.50.
Taxi
The journey to the
city centre costs
€45 and takes
around 25 minutes.
Tourist info
The main offi ce
is at Rue Royale 2,
(0)2 513 89 40,
visitbrussels.be
is located on the Sablon, and on Friday
lunchtimes the public is invited to
attend a series of free concerts by the
very talented students. On 8 March
there’s a Prokofiev recital and on 29
March, the composition students will
showcase new works.
SHOP Frenchman Patrick Roger
(Place du Grand Sablon 43) is a recent
arrival among the Sablon’s many
chocolatiers, and has won over locals
and tourists alike with his jewel-like
pralines and delectable soft caramels.
Beauty boutique Kroonen & Brown
(Rue Lebeau 49) is a welcoming white
space specialising in niche fragrance
and beauty brands, from Miller Harris
colognes to RMS organic cosmetics.
LATER The Marquee (Rue Sainte Anne
20/22) calls itself a “deluxe microclub”.
It’s certainly stylish – check out the
vast chandelier – but is big enough
to spread over three floors, playing
mainly techno and electro on the
ground-floor dancefloor.
TIP On 2 March, Brussels is gripped
by Museum Night Fever. From 7pm to
1am, 23 of the city’s biggest and best
museums stay open with special
activities, concerts, fashion shows
and DJ sets.
A tranquil room at
Made in Louise, close
to Place Stéphanie
ST JOSSE
Multicultural St Josse isn’t one
of Brussels best-known communes.
Nonetheless, there’s a surprising
amount of cultural activities on
offer, as well as some beautiful
art nouveau architecture.
SLEEP The Phileas Fogg (Rue
Van Bemmel 6, (0)495 220 985,
phileasfogg.be, rooms from €95) is
an exquisitely decorated B&B. It’s set
in a rambling 19th-century townhouse,
decorated with finds from owner Karin
Dhadamus’s travels around the world.
On Friday nights, Karin cooks up a table
d’hôte feast for guests (€30 per person).
EAT Exquisite art nouveau brasserie De
Ultieme Hallucinatie (Rue Royale 316,
(0)2 217 0614) has finally reopened
after a three-year closure. It’s a
sympathetic and minimal restoration,
preserving all of the tavern’s charm and
its museum-quality fixtures and fittings.
The food was never the main draw, and
the menu of brasserie staples – steaks,
mussels, salads – is largely unchanged.
CULTURE In the former greenhouses
of the botanic gardens, the Botanique
(Rue Royale 236) cultural centre is
the city’s best venue for new music. In

More than a school.
www.isb.be/more

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March it’s hosting singer-songwriter
Jake Bugg and indie rockers I am Kloot,
and there’s an exhibition of artworks
themed around the Tower of Babel.
TIP In a converted 19th-century railway
station, Jazz Station (Chaussée de
Louvain 193A-195) is now a bar, cultural
centre and library, with a concert venue
devoted to jazz in all its forms. Look out
for the Saturday ‘apéritif concerts’.
PLACE STÉPHANIE
Chic Place Stéphanie is the heart
of the uptown shopping quarter,
and the surrounding streets are
in constant flux: there’s always
something new to buy, eat or see.
SLEEP The newly-opened Made in
Louise (Rue Veydt 40, (0)2 537 4033,
madeinlouise.com, rooms from €99) is
a family-owned boutique hotel in a
peaceful backstreet near Avenue
Louise. The décor is restrained and
restful, in soft greys and whites with
lots of natural wood, and there’s a cosy
bar-restaurant with lots of local beers.
EAT English-inspired organic café-deli
God Save the Cream (Rue de Stassart
131, (0) 2503 0775) serves wholesome
salads and quiches, but also proper,
stodgy British cakes. They’re justly
proud of their excellent coffee –
something of a rarity in Brussels.
CULTURE Baronian Francey (Rue
Isidore Verheyden 2) has been a fixture
on Brussels’ contemporary art scene
since the 1970s, exhibiting the likes of
Gilbert & George and Robert Crum. In
March, it’s showing works by German
artist and sculptor Olaf Holzapfel.
SHOP French brand Just Campagne
(Chaussée de Charleroi 30) opened
here late last year, selling leather bags
and purses. The summer range has
some great acid brights.
LATER Gotha Club (Galerie Louise,
level -1), in the basement of the Louise
shopping centre, is a new arrival on the
Brussels club scene. This outpost of
the well-known Cannes super-club
promises big name DJs, a glitzy crowd
and even the odd celebrity sighting.
TIP At the peaceful, luxurious Serendip
Spa (Place Stéphanie 18), holistic
therapists offer anything from a 15minute
‘eyelift’ to a full five-hour ritual.
marche aux
poissons/vismet
ste-catherine
st-katelijne
dansaert
RUE A. DANSAERT / A. DANSAERTSTRAAT
halles st-gery
st-gorikshallen
R. VAN ARTEVELDE / ARTEVELDESTRAAT
E
BLVD ANSPACH / ANSPACHLAAN
RUE DU MIDI / ZUIDSTRAAT
marolles
marollen
p. du jeu de balle
vossenplein
INFO
For further
information on
places to stay,
things to do and
much more, go to
visitbrussels.be
Belgium extra...
See pages 68 & 70
for a special double
Belgian city focus.
This issue: Kortrijk
and Stavelot.
de brouckère
place ste-catherine
st-katelijneplein
RUE BLAES / BLAESSTRAAT
RUE HAUTE / HOOGSTRAAT
place du beguinage
begijnhof
RUE DE LAEKEN / LAKENSESTRAAT
place de
la bourse
beursplein
RUE DU LOMBARD / LOMBARDSTRAAT
manneken
pis
place de la chapelle
kapellemarkt
BLVD A.MAX / A.MAXLAAN
MATONGE
Brussels’s busy African quarter
takes its name from a shopping
area in Kinshasa; like its namesake,
it’s a hive of food and clothes
shops, African hairdressers and
lively bars and restaurants.
SLEEP Renovated 1930s gem Hôtel le
Berger (Rue du Berger 24, (0) 2510
8340, lebergerhotel.be, rooms from
€120) has a louche charm, with its
period wallpapers, low lighting and
vintage furniture.
EAT Tiny Italian osteria Unico (Rue
Longue Vie 48, (0)2 325 9512) has
gare centrale
centraal station
a daily-changing menu that might
feature razor clams, Italian sausage or
artichokes. There’s a €35 tasting menu
for the greedier or more adventurous.
CULTURE The Vendôme (Chaussée de
Wavre 18) is a cosy two-screen cinema
with a varied programme of homegrown
and international arthouse films. On
‘Vendôme Saturdays’, it shows films for
grown-ups and children simultaneously.
SHOP Behind its hot pink door, Le Petit
Boudoir (Rue de la Paix 19) sells pretty,
original womenswear and accessories:
there’s a particularly good selection of
inexpensive jewellery, including London
brand Tatty Devine’s bright, witty pieces.
66 march 2013
FLY TO brussels from 50 european destinations. brusselsairlines.com
BLVD É.JACQMAIN / É.JACQMAINLAAN
RUE GRÉTRY / GRÉTRYSTRAAT
RUE NEUVE / NIEUWSTRAAT
R. DE L'ÉCUYER SCHILDKNAAPS / BISSCHOPSSTRAAT
grand-place
grote markt
place st-jean
st-jansplein
mont des arts
kunstberg
square
B. DE L'EMPEREREUR / KEIZERSLAAN
grand sablon
grote zavel
RUE DES MINIMES / MINIENENSTRAAT
RUE E.ALLARD / E.ALLARDSTRAAT
palais de justice
justitiepaleis
BLVD DE L'IMPÉRATRICE / KEIZERINLAAN
RUE AUX LAINES / WOLSTRAAT
rue neuve
nieuwstraat
place des martyrs
martelaarsplein
opera
louise
louiza
B
m. magritte
RUE DU MARAIS / BROEKSTRAAT
B. DE BERLAIMONT / BERLAIMONTLAAN
museés des beaux-arts
m. voor schone kunsten
sablon
zavel
B. DU JARDIN BOTANIQUE / KRUIDTUINLAAN B. BISCHOFFSHEIM / BISCHOFFSHEIMLAAN
cathédrale
kathedraal
bozar
place royale
koningsplein
parc
park
BLVD PACHÉCO / PACHECOLAAN
BOULEVARD DE WATERLOO / WATERLOOLAAN
RUE DE LA LOI / WETSTRAAT
RUE ROYALE / KONINGSTRAAT
congres
place du congres
congresplein
parc de
bruxelles
m. des instruments de musique
muziekinstrumenten museum
palais royal
koninklijk paleis
porte de namur
naamsepoort
jardin botanique
kruidtuin
RUE DUCALE / HERTOGSTRAAT
botanique
kruidtuin
palais de la nation
paleis der natie
arts-loi
kunst-wet
BLVD DU RÉGENT / REGENTLAAN
ILLUSTRATION: IAN DUTNALL

My time at BSB was great preparation
for life and study at Harvard. I really
enjoyed the challenging IB Diploma
curriculum alongside wider opportunities,
including musical performance, public
service and debating, all underpinned
with a global perspective.”
Kaat de Corte (BSB alumna,
Harvard College Class of 2014)
• 1,250 students from ages 1 - 18 years
• Between 60 and 70 nationalities
• British-based curriculum up to age 16
• French/English bilingual education
available across 6 Year Groups
• Only school in Belgium to offer A
Levels and IB Diploma
• Outstanding academic results
For more information visit
www.britishschool.be
Fermé dimanche et lundi soir
Avenue Louise 300
1050 Bruxelles
Tél.: 02 640 54 55
www.atelier.truffenoire.com
« Diamant parmi les diamants, la Truffe Blanche est de retour dans notre restaurant.
« Inspiré par La Truffe Noire, sa maison mère, L’Atelier de La Truffe Noire ouvre sa carte à la
Pour nouvelle les connaisseurs, saison de la truffe elle représente du Périgord. surtout Particulièrement un moment parfumée, de dégustation riche et odorante rare, d’autant cette
plus année, exquis elle nous qu’il enivre est limité déjà dans les sens. le Et temps, si elle se nous décline laissant chez à nous peine à la trois façon mois « de pour tous les en
proter jours », elle otre n’en est restaurant pas moins conceptstore la perle de cet est hiver. aussi Un délice un des au seuls quotidien, endroits à répéter où ous tout orir au
quelques long d’une grammes année que de je true vous souhaite lance, succulente. pour des » dégustations puissantes et ranées à
Gil Van Haut
domicile. »
Gérant de L’Atelier La Truffe Noire
Gil Van Haut - Gérant de L’Atelier La Truffe Noire

u u bcn txl bud edi gva ncl osl tlv vce vno
kortrijk
belgium
10,438,353 +32 6°C
Euro (EUR)
Emma Thomson
THIS INNOVATIVE TOWN ON THE RIVER LEIE
OFFERS A GENTLER PACE OF LIFE
GROTE MARKT
Dotted with cafés and restaurants,
the city’s central square is presided
over by a sturdy red-brick belfry –
all that remains of the once-great
13th-century cloth hall destroyed
in World War II.
SLEEP The stylish B&B Dharma
(Groeningestraat 18, (0)56 29 36 56,
bedandbreakfast-dharma.be,
rooms from €80) has three beautiful
rooms, decked out in calming colours
and featuring interesting objets d’art.
Note it’s cash only.
EAT Nata (Grote Markt 4, (0)56 20
12 20) is an upmarket brasserie that
occasionally serves local speciality
Kortrijkse bil (smoked veal). To sate
a sweet tooth, Ridder & Hove
(Voorstraat 7, (0)56 22 44 42) is
the best place in town to try kalletaart
– apple cake flavoured with marzipan
and Calvados.
CULTURE The course of Belgian
history was changed forever on the
outskirts of Kortrijk in July 1302, when
Flemish foot soldiers went head to head
with a cavalry of French knights – and
won. Known as the Battle of the Golden
Spurs, it was the first time in history
INFO
Brussels Airport is
around 100km east
of Kortrijk.
Train
Take a train to either
Brussels Noord or
Deinze, then take a
connecting train to
Kortrijk. Trains to
Brussels Noord
leave the airport
at nine minutes past
the hour, every hour,
and take about an
hour and 35
minutes; trains to
Deinze depart at
50 minutes past
the hour, every hour,
and the journey
takes just under
two hours. A single
ticket costs €18.
Taxi
A taxi to Kortrijk
city centre from the
airport will cost
from €120 and take
a good hour.
Tourist info
The offi ce is at
Begijnhofpark,
(0)56 27 78 40,
kortrijk.be
that a horseback army had been
defeated by footmen. Multimedia
museum Kortrijk 1302: Seven
Centuries in One Day (Begijnhofpark)
re-lives the drama.
LATER With any luck, the weather
may just be warm enough to enjoy a
cocktail or two on the roof terrace of
Punta K (Sint-Maartenskerkhof 8).
It’s a sleek bar located above the
Dell’ Anno restaurant, and is popular
with well-heeled townsfolk.
ALONG THE LEIE
Around ten-minutes’ walk north
of the central part of the town, the
River Leie branches to form a citycentre
islet known as Buda Island.
It’s a peaceful, quietly up-andcoming
neighbourhood which
is now being touted as a hub of
innovation and creativity, with
the converted textile factory
known as Budafabriek at its heart.
SLEEP All aboard Ahoi (Handelskaai 1,
(0)56 22 91 70, ahoi.be, rooms from
€62), a charming converted barge
moored on the river, right in the centre
of Kortrijk, close to the Grote Markt.
Its small, simple rooms have capsule
The splendid City
Hall dominates the
ancient Grote Markt
en-suite bathrooms, and a delicious
organic breakfast is served in the bar.
EAT The atmospheric t’Mouterijtje
(Kapucijnenstraat 25A, (0)56 20 14 14)
serves up a predominantly fish-focused
menu of scallops, prawns and homemade
shrimp croquettes beneath an
old, brick-vaulted ceiling. A great place
for a lively lunch.
CULTURE Definitely worth a detour
is the charming Broelmuseum
(Broelkaai 6), which occupies a
creaky 18th-century waterside
mansion and displays an interesting
collection of art produced by locals.
Look out, too, for Brussels-born
artist Constantin Meunier’s haunting
Begrafenis van een Trappist (‘The
Burial of a Trappist Monk’).
SHOP If you’re looking for an
unusual edible gift, make your way to
Kortrijks Chocoladehuis (Leiestraat
35). It sells begijntjes – nun-shaped
chocolates – in honour of the town’s
ancient begijnhof, where pious women
once lived.
TIP Pick up a Degustatiepas
(‘Tasting Ticket’) from the tourist
office. It costs €9 and buys you an
aperitif, coffee and sweet treat to
keep you going as you explore.
TO ADVERTISE HERE contact
Svetlana Sosnina svetlana.sosnina@ink-global.com
tel. +44 (0)207 613 8797, +32 (0)2 808 1576
ALAMY

EVERE
MAGRITTE
Unique investment
close to NATO
BRIGHT, SPACIOUS
APARTMENTS IN
A GREEN ENVIRONMENT
• Only 2 kilometers from NATO
• Guaranteed rental succes
• An investment opportunity not
to be missed
• 2 bedroom from € 239.500
• 3 bedroom from € 259.500
7 days a week from 9h00 till 21h00
Tel. 02 626 29 29
www.immpact.be
I wish to receive more information: about housing about investing
NAME: TEL:
ADDRESS: E-MAIL:
Send to Immpact - Terkamerenlaan 28, 1000 Brussels, or fax to 02 626 29 28, or mail to brussels@immpact.be

u u bcn txl bud edi gva ncl osl tlv vce vno
stavelot
belgium
10,438,353 +32 4°C
Euro (EUR)
ReneE Cordes
The historic village of Stavelot comes to
life for this month’s carnival festivities
STAVELOT & AROUND
Anchored by one of Belgium’s
oldest abbeys, Stavelot is rich
in old-world charm.
SLEEP The Auberge St-Remacle
(Avenue Ferdinand Nicolay 9, (0)80 86
20 47, lerelais-stavelot.be, rooms from
€37) is a no-frills hotel directly across
from the abbey. Alternatively, check
into the Romantik Hotel Le Val
d’Amblève (Route de Malmedy 7,
(0)80 28 14 40, levaldambleve.be,
rooms from €250, levaldambleve.be),
which more than lives up to its name.
Stay in the main manor house, which
features a gourmet French restaurant,
or the modern, wood-panelled annex,
where you’ll find the wellness centre,
sauna and steam room.
EAT Grab a quick lunchtime sandwich
or quiche at the Boulangerie Maréchal
bakery and tea room (Avenue
Ferdinand Nicolay 3, (0)80 86 22 82),
close to the abbey. For the best pizza
and pasta in town, head to La Table
de Figaro (Place du Vinâve 4, (0)80 86
42 86), a bustling, family-friendly
eaterie popular with locals. If it’s a
special occasion, La Maison (Place
St-Remacle 18, (0)80 88 08 91) is a
polished hotel restaurant serving
classic, French-inflected cuisine.
CULTURE Stavelot Abbey (Cour de
l’Abbaye 1) houses three very different
museums under one roof. The museum
in the vaults explores the history of the
INFO
Brussels Airport is
150km north west
of Stavelot.
Train
From Brussels
Central Station, it
takes about two
hours to travel to
Trois-Ponts, often
including a transfer
in Liège; a standard
return ticket costs
around €41. From
there, it’s about 6km
to central Stavelot,
easily accessible by
taxi or bus lines 744
and 745.
Tourist info
Stavelot’s tourist
offi ce is at 32 Place
Saint Remacle,
(0)80 86 27 06,
tourisme.stavelot.be
Spa-Francorchamps race track,
showcasing a series of sleek Formula 1
cars, while another traces the abbey’s
history from its 7th-century origins to
the French Revolution; the third museum
is devoted to French poet Guillaume
Apollinaire. Stavelot’s famous Carnival
takes place from 9-11 March, when
thousands of revellers take to the
streets, with white-clad, red-nosed
characters known as the Blanc Moussis
spreading good cheer and confetti.
Meanwhile, nature-lovers shouldn’t
miss Belgium’s largest waterfall at
Coo, some 7km west of Stavelot.
SHOP Stock up on picnic provisions at
the Thursday morning farmers’ market
on Stavelot Abbey Esplanade. From
23-24 March, the abbey’s cellar
hosts its annual spring wine fair, the
Printemps du Vin (Cour de l’Abbaye 1).
TIP The tourist office offers various
60- to 90-minute group tours, from a
visit to the Treasury of St-Sebastian
Church to a ‘Stavelot and Water’
circuit of fountains and waterways.
MALMEDY
Just over 8km north east of
Stavelot is Malmedy – once part of
Prussia and Germany, but annexed
to Belgium after World War I.
SLEEP Not far from Malmedy, in a
peaceful spot on the edge of the forest,
Le Maison Geron (Route de la Ferme
Libert 4, (0)80 33 00 06, geron.be,
Stavelot’s historic abbey
rooms from €80) is an elegant
18th-century country manor with
impeccably decorated rooms and
spectacular breakfasts, featuring
freshly-squeezed orange juice and
the owner’s home-made marmalade.
EAT Albert I (Place Albert I 40, (0)80
33 04 52), attached to a hotel of the
same name, specialises in French fine
dining, with signature dishes ranging
from spiced foie gras to sea bream with
fennel and orange; weather permitting,
reserve a table on the terrace.
CULTURE Housed in a handsome
former monastery, the Malmundarium
(Place du Châtelet 10) tourist and
cultural centre comprises several
museums, exploring Malmedy’s
paper- and leather-making traditions
as well as its carnival folklore, with
elaborate costume and mask displays.
The 18th-century Cathedral of Saints
Peter, Paul and Quirin (Place du
Châtelet), elevated from monastic
church to cathedral status in 1920,
features relics and a marble Madonna
with Child sculpture ascribed to
Baroque artist Jean Del Cour.
TIP As part of the High Fens nature
reserve, Malmedy offers numerous
opportunities to explore the great
outdoors by foot, bike or boat. Learn
all about the local flora and fauna
or pick up a walking map at the
Botrange Nature Centre, next to
Belgium’s highest point (at 694m),
the Signal de Botrange.
70 march 2013
FLY TO Brussels from 50 european destinations. brusselsairlines.com
ALAMY:

21.02 > 26.05.2013
Pionnier de l’abstraction / Pionier van de abstractie / Pioneer of abstraction
www.museedixelles.be
Exposition organisée
par le Musée d’Ixelles
et le Musée des Beaux-Arts
de La Chaux-de-Fonds, Suisse
À l’initiative de / Op initiatief van / On the initiative of
Willy Decourty, Bourgmestre / Burgemeester / Mayor
Yves de Jonghe d’Ardoye, Député-honoraire - Échevin de la Culture
Ere-afgevaardigde - Schepen voor Cultuur / Honorary Deputy - Alderman of the Culture
et les membres du Collège des Bourgmestre et Échevins d’Ixelles
en de leden van het College van Burgemeester en Schepenen van Elsene
and of the Ixelles Municipal Executive Team.
Brussels
Avenue Louise 208
B-1050 Brussels
T. +32 2 646 46 36
Luxembourg
8, rue 1900
L-2157 Luxembourg
T. +352 2684 54 16
Antwerp
Frankrïjklei 33 (WTC)
B-2018 Antwerp
T. +32 3 612 01 06
Madrid
Monte Esquinza 36,2°
E-28010 Madrid
T. +34 64 752 53 94
Geneva
Rue du Rhône 65
CH-1211 Geneva 3
T. +41 79 544 80 78
+41 22 737 10 00
Tel Aviv
Harbaa Street 21
IL-64739 Tel Aviv
T. +972 3 623 61 55
Alberto Magnelli, Angle qui se prolonge (détail / detail), 1945, Kunstmuseum, Saint-Gall (Suisse / Zwitserland / Swiss) © SABAM, Belgium 2013

u bcn c txl bud edi gva ncl osl tlv vce vno
barcelona
spain
47,042,984 +34 11°C
Euro (EUR)
Three times daily
Sally Davies
March brings bright, warm days and fewer
tourists to Barcelona’s streets
BARRI GÒTIC
Grand buildings and medieval
alleyways give the Gothic quarter
an atmospheric feel.
SLEEP The curious eyeball sculptures
on the façade of the Ohla Hotel (Via
Laietana 49, 93 341 50 50, ohlahotel.
com, rooms from €211) hide a more
restrained, quietly luxurious interior.
The Bonic (Carrer Josep Anselm Clavé
9, 1º 4A, 626 053 434, bonic-barcelona.
com, rooms from €90) is a bright and
breezy eight-room B&B.
EAT Can Culleretes (Carrer Quintana
5, 93 317 30 22, culleretes.com) is
cheap, noisy and utterly unmissable;
mains might include wild boar stew
or cod with butterbeans.
CULTURE The neighbourhood sprawls
out from the Gothic Catedral de
Barcelona (Pla de la Seu), starting
point for the city’s Easter parades.
Palm Sunday is particularly lively.
SHOP La Boqueria (La Rambla 89)
is Europe’s biggest food market: a
cornucopia of weighty hams, fruit and
veg, nuts, shellfish and freshly-cooked
buñuelos de bacalao (salt-cod fritters).
LATER Harlem Jazz Club (Carrer de
Comtessa de Sobradiel 8) has been
INFO
El Prat Airport is
12km from the city.
Bus
Aerobuses, one
from each terminal,
depart every 10
minutes and stop
at Plaça Espanya,
Plaça Universitat
and Plaça
Catalunya. Tickets
bought on the bus
cost €5.75 and
the journey takes
30-40 minutes.
Train
A suburban
(Rodalies) train
calling at Sants and
Passeig de Gràcia
takes about 30
minutes. Tickets
cost €3.80, but it’s
best to buy a T10
train card for €9.80,
which comprises 10
train, bus or metro
journeys.
Taxi
A black and yellow
taxi to the centre
will cost around
€25, depending
on traffi c.
Tourist info
The main tourist
offi ce is at Plaça
Catalunya, 932 853
832, barcelona
turisme.com
bringing diverse acts to the city’s night
owls for a quarter of a century, from
flamenco to bossa nova.
TIP Ride the lift up to the roof of the
Hotel Duquesa de Cardona (Passeig
Colom 12) for a cocktail and an
unmatched view over the port.
SANT ANTONI
An up-and-coming barrio of the
Eixample, with a plethora of new
bars and cafés.
SLEEP You get a lot of design bang
for your buck at the Market Hotel
(Passatge Sant Antoni 10, 93 325 12 05,
markethotel.com.es, rooms from €69),
with its pared-down rooms and chic
communal areas.
EAT Carrer Parlament is the main
artery for Sant Antoni’s wealth
of hipster cafés, but Federal (Carrer
Parlament 39, 93 187 36 07) is still
the coolest of them all. Try Bar
Calders (Carrer Parlament 25,
93 329 93 49) for tapas and a
Sunday-morning vermouth.
LATER Gin bars are a hot trend right
now, and Xix (Carrer Rocafort 19) is
where it all started, with literally dozens
of gins to choose from.
Australian coffee
and stellar brunches,
courtesy of Federal
TIP Sant Antoni’s iconic market
building is being renovated, but its
Sunday book market still takes place
in muted form in the adjacent streets.
GRÀCIA
This quiet, low-rise neighbourhood,
beloved of families and students,
has an anarchic past.
SLEEP Casa Gràcia (Passeig de Gràcia
116, 93 187 44 97, casagraciabcn.com,
rooms from €55) can lay claim to being
the city’s first boutique hostel. Nearby
Casa Fuster (Passeig de Gràcia 132, 93
255 30 00, hotelcasafuster.com, rooms
from €160) is an altogether grander
affair, in a beautiful Modernista building.
EAT Café-cum-deli Les Tres a la
Cuina (Carrer Sant Lluis 35, 93 105
49 47) has one of the best lunch deals
in the city: two creative, delicious
courses for €7.
CULTURE Gaudí’s Park Güell contains
some of his most fantastical buildings
and sculptures, and has a spectacular
view across the city to the sea.
SHOP Lots of quirky boutiques
have sprung up in Gràcia lately,
many of which can be found
along Carrer Verdi.
READ OUR CITY GUIDES ONLINE
btheremag.com

u bcn txl bud edi gva ncl osl tlv vce vno
Berlin
germany
81,305,856 +49 4°C
Euro (EUR)
five times daily
Jeroen van Marle
It’s still chilly in Berlin, so retreat to cosy
cafés and art galleries
MITTE
Once part of East Berlin, the
city centre district has changed
enormously. With easy access to
many of the city’s major sights
and cultural hubs, it makes a
great base for visitors.
SLEEP The 1930s-built former Danish
Embassy is now home to a new,
much talked-about hotel, Das Stue
(Drakestrasse 1, (0)30 311 7220,
das-stue.com, rooms from €180). It
combines sleek contemporary design
with views of Tiergarten Park, and the
antelopes in the adjacent zoo.
EAT Pauly Saal (Auguststrasse 11–13.
(0)30 3300 6070) is Mitte’s latest
dining sensation, serving fresh, regional
German cuisine. The three-course €32
lunchtime menu might include chestnut
soup with celery, or roebuck haunch
with homemade pasta. It, too, is set in
a monumental 1930s building, this time
a Jewish girls’ school.
CULTURE It’s 80 years since the Nazis
rose to power in 1933, and the free
Destroyed Diversity exhibition at the
German Historical Museum (Unter
den Linden 2) kicks off a year of special
events. Near Checkpoint Charlie, the
new Wall Panorama (Friedrichstrasse
205) is a fascinating 900m2 painting of
the Berlin Wall as it looked in the 1980s.
LATER Judging by the old photos in
the hallway at Clärchens Ballhaus
(Auguststrasse 24), not that much has
INFO
Berlin Tegel Airport
is 8km north west of
the city centre.
Bus
Bus TXL connects
Tegel airport with
Hauptbahnhof
(main) station, Mitte
(the city centre) and
Alexanderplatz. Bus
X9 connects Tegel to
Zoo Bahnhof station
in the western city
centre. Journeys
take 20-40 minutes
and tickets cost
€2.40.
Taxi
A taxi into the city
centre takes about
20 minutes and
costs around €20.
Tourist offi ce
There are tourist
offi ces at the
Brandenburg Gate,
Hauptbahnhof
station,
Kurfürstendamm 21
and the Reichstag,
(0)30 250025,
visitberlin.de
changed since this legendary ballroom
opened a century ago. There’s still
dancing almost every day – tango on
Tuesday, wild swing on Wednesday,
and live bands at the weekend.
CHARLOTTENBURG
The former heart of West Berlin is
set for revival, with a new five-star
hotel and several ambitious
building projects.
SLEEP An elegant, 31-storey
skyscraper overlooking the Kaiser
Wilhelm Memorial Church houses the
brand new Waldorf Astoria Hotel
(Hardenbergstrasse 28, (0)30 814
0000, waldorfastoriaberlin.com, rooms
from €255). The luxurious rooms have
spectacular views, and the restaurant,
Les Solistes, is top-notch.
EAT Opposite the Schaubühne theatre,
Gianni runs the charming Locanda
(Lehniner Platz 2, (0)30 3180 6968) as
a one-man show, serving simple but
delicious Italian fare while he sings and
potters about in his tiny kitchen. On
Sundays, visit the Duke (Nürnberger
Strasse 50-55, (0)30 6831 5400 0)
for an excellent brunch accompanied
by live jazz music – its namesake,
Duke Ellington, often performed here
when it was a club.
CULTURE After years of renovation,
the scaffolding is finally coming down
around the iconic Kaiser Wilhelm
Memorial Church (Gedächtniskirche,
Once the Danish
Embassy, Das Stue is now
a sleek, modern hotel
Breitscheidplatz), which was left in
ruins after the war as a warning to
future generations.
SHOP An unusual but charming
combination of teas from around the
world, tea paraphernalia and irresistibly
pretty paper products is sold at Paper
& Tea (Bleibtreustrasse 4).
FRIEDRICHSHAIN
The young international crowd
that hangs out in this lively, former
East Berlin workers’ district knows
how to party.
EAT The unique Scheers Schnitzel
(corner of Warschauer Strasse and
Stralauer Allee) serves delicious
SchniPoSa – schnitzel with potatoes
and salad, for just €5. Spontaneous
parties often happen late at night.
For a calmer lunch, head to Wahrhaft
Nahrhaft (Grünberger Strasse 83),
a delightful café with great bagels,
salads and cakes.
LATER Overlooking Boxhagener
Platz, the quiet Macondo Café
(Gärtnerstrasse 14) brings a slice
of South America to Berlin; try an
authentic mate tea. The graffitiscrawled
RAW Gelände railway yard
hosts a number of excellent bars and
concert venues; Badehaus Szimpla
(Revaler Strasse 99) is a musiksalon
with a fantastic programme of Balkan
boogie, hip-hop jams, jazz-rock nights
and electric gypsy disco.
74 march 2013
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u bcn txl bud edi gva ncl osl tlv vce vno
Budapest
hungary
9,958,453 +36 6°C
Forint (HUF)
three times daily
douglas allan
Spring arrives early in Budapest: shake off
winter with an outdoor thermal bath
FERENCVÁROS
(THE 9TH DISTRICT)
Often overlooked by visitors, this
district in Pest offers an authentic
slice of Budapest life, with a nod
to hipsterdom.
SLEEP Kalvin House (Gönczy Pál utca
6, (0)1 216 4365, kalvinhouse.hu, rooms
from €75/22,000 HUF) has huge,
individually furnished rooms in a
charming 19th-century building.
Maharaja Apartments & Rooms
(Ráday utca 49, 06 30 964 2465,
rooms from €20/6,000 HUF) caters
to budget travellers, and is known for
its friendly staff.
EAT Over the last 20 years, Ráday utca
has become a pedestrianised gastroenclave,
lined with eateries offering
Persian, Italian, Chinese, Mediterranean
and, of course, Hungarian cuisine.
CULTURE If experimental dance, music
and theatre are your thing, head for the
Trafó House Of Contemporary Arts
(Liliom utca 41). March’s line-up
includes pianist Brad Mehldau and
acclaimed percussionist Mark Guiliana,
as well as Icelandic dance sensation
Erna Omarsdóttir.
SHOP Nagycsarnok (Great Market,
Vámház körút 1-3) is Budapest’s
biggest food market, perfect for picking
up Hungarian souvenirs such as exotic
mushrooms and dried paprika.
LATER The colourful entrance to
Trapéz Kultikocsma (Imre utca 2)
INFO
Budapest Ferenc
Liszt International
Airport is 16km
south east of the
city centre.
Bus
The 200E to
and from the
Kőbánya-Kispest
metro terminal
leaves every 10 to
30 minutes until
11.46pm, taking 25
minutes. Tickets
cost €1/HUF 400.
Train
A train service
connects Terminal 1
to Nyugati Railway
Station. The journey
takes 23 minutes;
tickets are priced
€1/HUF 282.
Taxi
A taxi to the city
centre takes about
30 minutes – the
price is around
€22-€25/HUF
6,220-7,068. You can
also take the airport
minibus, from €10/
HUF 2,827.
Tourist info
The Tourinform
Central Offi ce is
located
at Sütő utca,
(0)1 438 8080,
budapestinfo.hu
FLY TO budapest three times daily. brusselsairlines.com
leads to a maze of nooks and crannies
where you can have a drink. KisErkel
Café (Erkel utca 14) is a quiet, arty spot
for an early evening tipple; depending
on how the night unfolds, you might
find yourself at Kakas Presszó (Üllői
út 2-4), which never closes.
TIP Möbelkunst (Földváry utca 4) is
a cross between a fleamarket and a
garage sale, held every Sunday from
10am to 4pm.
BELVÁROS
(THE 5TH DISTRICT)
Traditionally the business centre
of Budapest, downtown Pest has
recently developed more of a
cultural and retail scene.
SLEEP Palazzo Dorottya (Dorottya
utca 6, 06 30 44 55 750,
palazzodorottya.com, rooms from
€190/55,000 HUF) is an architectural
treasure designed in the 1820s by
Mihlay Pollack, which now contains 87
luxury apartments. For a stylish pied-àterre,
the Bohem Art Hotel (35 Molnár
utca, (0)1 327 9020, bohemarthotel.hu,
rooms from €60/18,000 HUF) is ideal.
EAT This district has several high-end
bistros, but Boom & Brass (Vigadó
Utca 4-6, (0)1 877 7788) is the newest,
delivering Hungarian cuisine with a
modern bent. Despite its French name,
Comme Chez Soi (Aranykéz utca 2,
(0)1 318 3943) serves Italian dishes in
convivial surrounds. Cash only.
Buy local paprika and honey
at Nagycsarnock market
LATER Drop Shop Wine Bar
(Balassi Bálint utca 27) has over
4,000 wines from all over the world,
including Hungary.
TEREZVÁROS
(THE 6TH DISTRICT)
Lined with smart shops and
restaurants, stately Andrássy
Avenue extends the length of this
upscale district, sitting equably
alongside the bohemian cafés and
bars of the inner district.
SLEEP The stunning Bauhaus
Mamaison Hotel Andrassy (Andrássy
Utca 111, (0)1 462 2100, mamaison.
com, doubles from €90/24,000 HUF)
offers easy access to the Széchenyi
Thermal Baths, Heroes Square and
Andrássy Avenue.
EAT Eklektika Restaulounge
(Nagymező Utca 30, (0)1 266 1226,
eklektika.hu) has good wines, smiling
service and a wonderful – if limited –
menu, which might run from veal
cheeks and fried dumplings to chicken
with quince compôte.
LATER Pótkulcs (Csengery Utca 65B)
may not be easy to find, hidden behind
an anonymous iron gate; once inside,
you’ll find a wonderful watering hole.
TIP In March, five of Budapest’s most
famous thermal baths play host to the
Night of Baths, when you can party in
the medicinal waters until 3am; see
visitbudapest.travel for details.
march 2013 75

u bcn txl bud edi gva ncl osl tlv vce vno
edinburgh
scotland
63,047,162 +44 5°C
BRITISH POUND (GBP)
daily
Andrea Pearson
Scotland’s capital is a sophisticated city
with a taste for fine dining and culture
BROUGHTON STREET
Close to the city centre but a world
away from the tartan kitsch of the
Royal Mile, Broughton Street is an
appealing bohemian strip.
SLEEP Just off Broughton Street,
20 Albany Street (20 Albany Street,
0131 478 5386, 20albanystreet.co.uk,
rooms from €150/£129) is a decidedly
superior townhouse B&B with three
spacious suites, where guests are
welcomed with home-made cakes
and a dram of whisky.
EAT L’Escargot Bleu (56 Broughton
Street, (0)131 557 1600) is a welcoming
restaurant with excellent Scottish
produce, a French owner and a polished
menu (cauliflower velouté, steak with
Roquefort sauce). The early-evening
blackboard menu is terrific value.
SHOP Concrete Wardrobe (50A
Broughton Street) and Curiouser
and Curiouser (93 Broughton Street)
are, conveniently, right opposite one
another. They sell exquisitely designed
clothes, bags, jewellery, cards and other
locally made items.
LATER It’s not all about being
hopelessly hip on the strip. The Barony
Bar (81-85 Broughton Street, (0)131
558 2874) is a classic old Edinburgh
pub, and the perfect place for a pint.
More cosmopolitan drinkers might try
the Treacle Bar and Kitchen (39-41
Broughton Street, (0)131 557 0627),
renowned for its killer cocktails.
INFO
Edinburgh Airport
is 13km west of
the city.
Bus
The Airlink 100
Express departs
for the city centre
(Waverly Bridge)
every 10 minutes.
The journey takes
about 25 minutes,
and a single ticket
costs €4.30/£3.50;
tickets can be
bought from the
driver. Lothian bus
no. 35 calls at local
stops so takes about
an hour to reach the
city centre. A single
costs €1.75/£1.40
Taxi
A taxi into the city
centre takes about
25 minutes and
costs around
€16.20/£13.
Tourist offi ce
Edinburgh Tourist
information Centre
(TIC) is in the city
centre, above
Waverley Station,
at 3 Princes Street,
0845 225 5121,
visitscotland.com
TOLLCROSS
In the southwest of the city,
Tollcross – as its name suggests
– was where tolls were levied
on those entering the city in
medieval times. These days, it’s
something of a cultural hub.
EAT There’s great sushi at Njoi (119
Lothian Road, (0)131 229 1866), but
for a more Scottish feel head to the
Timberyard (10 Lady Lawson Street,
(0)131 221 1222), a laidback restaurant
and cocktail bar in a former timber
merchants, with a south-facing outdoor
space for sunny days. The menu is big
on locally produced ingredients, from
sea purslane to Shetland lamb.
CULTURE Film buffs are irresistibly
drawn to the screenings, discussions
and lectures held at the Filmhouse
(88 Lothian Road) and the Cameo
(38 Home Street); the latter has been
a cinema since 1914.
LEITH SHORE
Strictly speaking, Leith is a separate
town, largely comprising harbour
and warehouse buildings that have
been turned into flats, boutique
shops and cafés. It’s ubër-cool
and a centre for foodies – but
whatever you do, don’t say it’s
part of Edinburgh.
SLEEP The Malmaison (1 Tower Place,
(0)84469 30652, malmaison.com,
The Michelin-starred
Kitchin, presided over by
chef Tom Kitchin
rooms from €105/£89) is an elegantly
modern conversion of a building that
once accommodated sailors with
whisky and women on their minds.
EAT Edinburgh has more Michelin-star
restaurants than any other UK city
outside London. Two are in Leith, and
offer great deals on weekday lunches.
The Kitchin (78 Commercial Quay,
(0)131 555 1755) serves the city’s most
creative cuisine – including chef Tom
Kitchin’s ‘rock pool’ of local shellfish
served in a seafood consommé, which
you’ll find on the à la carte menu.
Restaurant Martin Wishart (54 The
Shore, (0)131 553 3557) also capitalises
on Scotland’s wealth of superb produce,
which is treated with consummate skill.
Neighbourhood favourite the Shore Bar
& Restaurant (3 The Shore, (0)131 553
5080) may not have a mantelpiece of
gongs, but is known for its excellent
seafood and cosy ambience.
CULTURE Browse the work of local
artists at Coburg House Studios
(15 Coburg Street), or tune into the
Scottish music scene at Nobles Bar
(44A Constitution Street). The latter
has Victorian décor as well as a fine
selection of Scottish beers.
TIP Escape the hubbub with a stroll
along the 20km Water of Leith
Walkway. Follow it for a few kilometres
towards the city centre to take in the
magnificent buildings of the Scottish
National Gallery of Modern Art
(75 Belford Road).
76 march 2013
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A e
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A e
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Email: info@bhrclinic.com
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u bcn txl bud edi gva g ncl osl tlv vce vno
geneva
switzerland
7,925,517 +41 6°C
swiss franc (chf)
seven times daily
Michela Mantani
clear, Cloudless views over Lake Léman
mark the beginning of spring
BASTIONS &
PLACE NEUVE
By the Parc des Bastions, the cool
and cultured Neuve district attracts
an interesting crowd.
SLEEP A short walk from Bastions, Les
Armures Hotel (1 rue Puits-St-Pierre,
(0)22 310 91 72, hotel-les-armures.ch,
rooms from €300/360CHF) is the
residence of choice for visiting
statesmen and international stars.
The décor melds 17th-century panelled
ceilings and frescos with understated
modern luxury.
EAT Little Buddha (10 rue Jean-
François Bartholoni, (0)22 307 10 00)
serves up French-infused Asian dishes
such as truffle-laced beef teriyaki or
coquilles Saint-Jacques with yuzu,
and has an opulent lounge bar. In
spring, a candlelit dinner is served on
the leafy terrace. Alternatively, the
art deco Café du Parc des Bastions
(1 Promenade des Bastions, (0)22
310 86 66) overlooks the park’s giant
chessboards; it’s a charming spot,
though service can be slow.
CULTURE The Fascinating Lebanon
exhibition at the Musée Rath (Place
Neuve) features all manner of
INFO
Geneva
International Airport
is 4km north west
of the city centre.
Train
From the airport to
the city centre takes
six minutes by train:
it’s free if you’ve just
fl own in, but you’ll
need to pick up a
Tout Genève pass,
which you can also
use on buses. The
passes are available
from dispensing
machines before
customs in the
baggage claim area.
Bus
Buses nos. 5 and
10 will take you
to the city centre
Genève-Cornavin
railway station in 10
minutes and across
the river in about 15.
Fares are around
€2.50/CHF3.
Taxi
The journey into the
city centre takes
about 15 minutes
and costs between
€25-37/CHF30-37.
Tourist info
The Geneva Tourist
Offi ce is at Rue du
Mont-Blanc 18,
(0)22 909 70 70,
geneve-tourisme.ch
archaeological finds (until 31 March),
while experimental theatre and world
cinema fill the cultural agenda at the
Maison des Arts du Grütli (16 rue
du Général-Dufour).
SHOP Founded in 1839, Brachard
& Cie (10 rue de la Corraterie) stocks
Swiss paper-cut cards, Caran d’Ache
art supplies and exquisite stationery.
For great deals on cool footwear brands
(Bronx, Blink, Camper and the like),
try the nearby Pompes Funèbres
(17 rue de la Corraterie).
LATER Relax in a leather club chair
while sampling the confident cocktail
list and tapas menu at the Salons de
Théophile (13 rue de la Cité).
RIVE DROITE
The Rive Droite (Right Bank)
commands iconic views of
Mont Blanc and the famous
Jet d’Eau fountain.
SLEEP A boutique hotel with plenty of
rustic charm, Hotel Edelweiss (2 Place
de la Navigation, (0)22 544 51 51,
manotel.com/edelweiss, rooms from
€130/160CHF) is an alpine hideaway
in the heart of the city, with Swiss Arolla
Pine beds and hand-painted furniture.
free APP download
Available from iTunes
Little Buddha;
where French and
Asian cuisine meet
EAT Chef Dominique Gauthier’s awardwinning
fare sets the bar for fine dining
at Le Chat Botté (13 quai du Mont
Blanc, (0)22 716 69 20), with a
signature dish of roasted monkfish
with clams and candied fennel. For an
exclusive culinary experience, reserve
the table du chef in the kitchen. Perched
on the pier of the city’s 1930s lake
baths, La Buvette des Bains des
Pâquis (30 quai du Mont Blanc, (0)22
738 16 16) is favoured by locals for a
late breakfast of bircher muesli or
leisurely lunch-with-a-view; come the
evening, it serves a celebrated fondue
(booking essential). Alternatively, the
shaded terrace of the Cottage Café
(7 Adhémar-Fabri, (0)22 731 60 16) is
an oasis of calm to savour home-made
ginger juice and fondant au chocolat
noir with thyme ice cream.
CULTURE Ensconced in the Parc de
la Perle du Lac, the Musée d’Histoire
des Sciences (128 rue de Lausanne)
houses a collection of antique scientific
instruments on the first floor of the
neo-classical Villa Bartholoni.
TIP The yellow Mouettes Genevoises
shuttle boats (mouettesgenevoises.ch)
provide swift transportation and striking
views of the city for €1.60/2CHF.

u bcn txl bud edi gva ncl osl tlv vce vno
newcastle
united kingdom
62,698,362 +44 7°C
british pound (gbp)
Three times daily
paul smith
A spring break in Newcastle promises a breath
of fresh air and the warmest of welcomes
OUSEBURN
A short walk from the city centre,
there’s plenty packed into this
once-industrial neighbourhood.
SLEEP Set in a shipping company’s
former headquarters, Newcastle’s
Hotel Du Vin (City Road, (0)191 229
2200, hotelduvin.com, rooms from
€127/£105) has spacious, stylish
rooms, a well-stocked wine cellar
and views over the River Tyne.
CULTURE The volunteer-staffed
Star and Shadow Cinema (Stepney
Bank) promises an eclectic schedule
of film and art. This month’s highlights
include Write On Tap, with actors
performing new plays by eight up-andcoming
writers. A national centre for
children’s books, Seven Stories (30
Lime Street) occupies a Victorian mill,
hosting story sessions, events and
exhibitions. Until mid-April, there’s
an exhibition on Julia Donaldson,
author of The Gruffalo.
LATER Fans of live music should make
time for The Cluny (36 Lime Street),
which has gigs almost every night. If
the evening sky is clear, enjoy sunset
over the river from the beer garden of
the Free Trade Inn (Saint Lawrence
Road), which has a commendable
array of craft beers and cask ales.
TIP Don’t miss the chance to explore
the Victoria Tunnel, a two-mile long
tunnel deep beneath the city. Built
to transport coal down to the River
INFO
Newcastle
International Airport
is 12km north west
of the city centre.
Train
Metro trains depart
the airport every 12
minutes at peak
times. The journey
to Newcastle takes
20 minutes and
costs €3.90/£3.20.
Taxi
The journey to the
city centre takes 15
to 20 minutes and
costs between
€18/£15 and
€22/£18.
Tourist info
The main tourist
offi ce is at 8-9
Central Arcade,
(0)191 277 8000,
newcastle
gateshead.com
FLY TO newcastle three times daily. brusselsairlines.com
Tyne, it was used as an air-raid shelter
during the war. Tickets must be booked
in advance at ouseburntrust.org.uk.
HIGH BRIDGE
In the heart of Newcastle, High
Bridge is an ancient lane that’s
now enjoying a new lease of life.
EAT Come the weekend, Dabbawal
(69-75 High Bridge, (0)191 232 5133)
is generally thronged, so book a table
for a weekday evening to enjoy the
tapas-style Indian menu, from Punjabi
chicken lollipops to sweet potato
chaat. Coffee connoisseurs should
try a flat white and slice of walnut
cake from 9 Bar Coffee (100 Grey
Street). It also serves an Italianinfluenced
lunch menu, from plump,
homemade arancini to mozzarella and
sausage-stuffed sourdough sandwiches.
CULTURE In just 18 months, The
Stand (31 High Bridge) has become
north-east England’s top comedy
venue. Local turns like Steffen Peddie
give audiences a taste of Geordie
humour, while big-name stand-ups
set to appear this month include
Mark Thomas and Rob Deering.
SHOP Opened in 1987, Union Clothing
(23 High Bridge) sells superior denim
brands and menswear, while specialist
vinyl experts RPM Music (4 Old George
Yard) have been going for almost as
long. Nearby Bcharmd Boutique
(16 Shakespeare Street) sells bold,
Newcastle has come a
long way from its
industrial roots
affordable jewellery, from bejewelled
bangles to weighty cocktail rings.
LATER Sip on cut-price cocktails in
Browns (51 Grey Street) from Sunday
to Wednesday, or sample dozens of
real ales and microbrewery beers at
Bacchus (42-48 High Bridge).
GOSFORTH
Take a trip to Newcastle’s affluent
northerly neighbourhood for a
taste of local life.
SLEEP It may look like a traditional
Victorian house in a sleepy suburb,
but the ten-room Townhouse Hotel
(1 West Avenue, (0)191 285 6812,
thetownhousehotel.co.uk, rooms from
€114/£95) offers a lavish boutique
experience away from the city lights.
EAT Loch Fyne (West Avenue,
(0)191 255 9320) remains a favourite
for both its food and setting. Feast on
fresh oysters, shellfish platters and
Scottish rope-grown mussels from the
pure sea loch waters of Loch Fyne
beneath the stained-glass arches of a
renovated United Reformed Church.
LATER In South Gosforth, the
Brandling Villa (Haddricks Mill Road)
is an independent pub with plenty of
cask ales to choose from; it also hosts
a well-attended ale and sausage festival
every spring. The Queen Victoria (206
High Street) is another haven for beerlovers,
offering an extensive range of
local brews in a traditional pub setting.
march 2013 79

u bcn txl bud edi gva ncl osl os tlv vce vno
oslo
norway
4,707,270 +47 0°C
Norwegian Krone (NOK)
Twice daily
Beate Oera-Roderick
Skiing events, Munch’s anniversary and a new
food venue make for an exciting month
CITY CENTRE
Most of Oslo’s main attractions
are within walking distance of Karl
Johan, its imposing main street.
SLEEP The Carlton Oslo Hotel
Guldsmeden (Parkveien 78, 232 74
000, hotelguldsmeden.dk/oslo,
rooms from €123/NOK895) has a
Turkish-inspired hammam and spa,
excellent organic breakfasts and
stellar eco-credentials.
EAT The elegant, Viennese-style
Theatercaféen (Hotel Continental,
Stortingsgata 24, 22 82 40 50) has
hosted Oslo’s in-crowd for over a
century. The seafood is excellent, but
the buzzing atmosphere and peoplewatching
are the real draw. Musiclovers
should head to Bare Jazz
(Grensen 8, 22 33 20 80), a relaxed
café, record store and concert venue.
The muffins are delicious, and its
cosy courtyard is charming.
CULTURE This year marks the
anniversary of artist Edvard Munch’s
birth, and the National Gallery
(Universitetsgata 13) is celebrating with
a major retrospective, Munch 150
(until 31 March).
LATER Descend a staircase lined
with Japanese prints and anime
drawings to find Izakaya (St Olavs
Gate 7). This informal Japanese pub
has an impressive sake menu, and
serves light, tapas-style dishes
instead of sushi.
INFO
Gardermoen Airport
is 45km from the
city centre.
Train
The airport express
train, Flytoget, costs
€23.50/NOK 170,
with six departures
per hour. It’s also
worth checking out
NSB, the national
rail company, which
is slower but also
convenient; tickets
cost from €12.50/
NOK 90.
Taxi
A taxi to the city
centre costs around
€95/NOK695
before 5pm and
€123/NOK895
after 5pm.
Tourist info
Oslo’s tourist offi ce
is by the City Hall,
at Fridtjof Nansens
plass 5, 815 30 555,
visitoslo.com
There is another
outpost at the
Cruise Terminal.
GRÜNERLØKKA
Once home to Edvard Munch,
Oslo’s old industrial area is dotted
with charming little cafés, bars
and design shops.
EAT Mathallen (Maridalsveien 17, 40
00 12 09) is a new food court with a
range of Norwegian and international
shops and eateries. Grünerløkka
Brygghus specialises in beer, with a
no-nonsense menu to match, while
Hotel Havana serves home-made
fishcakes, cured meats, pâtés and
Spanish bocadillos.
SHOP Conzept (Steenstrupsgate 12)
is a shop and gallery hybrid with a
focus on Scandinavian design. Look
out for its range of printed tops, and for
Line Marsdal’s playful charm bracelets
and animal-inspired necklaces. Dainty
Frøken Dianas Salonger (Markveien
33) offers a hand-picked selection
of vintage fashion, costume jewellery
and homeware.
LATER The tiny Bar Boca (Thorvald
Meyers Gate 30) offers innovative
cocktails, a snug, 1950s-style interior
and expert bartenders who often
use home-made ingredients. They like
a challenge, and will do exciting things
with Aquavit if you fancy something
with a Nordic twist.
TIP Stroll along the river Akerselva,
where there is an 8km walking trail that
passes waterfalls, parkland and various
historical buildings. Arty café Hønse-
The heart-stopping
Holmenkollen ski jump
Lovisas hus (Sandakerveien 2) is
an excellent starting point.
HOLMENKOLLEN
Hilly Holmenkollen enjoys
spectacular views to the city
and the fjord, and is the gateway
to Nordmarka, Oslo’s main
recreational area.
SLEEP Historical Holmenkollen Park
Hotel Rica (Kongeveien 26, 22 92 20
00, holmenkollenparkhotel.no, rooms
from €149/NOK1,085) is built in the
Norwegian ‘dragon’ style, and perches
atop the hill like a fairytale castle.
Rooms combine tradition and luxury,
and the breakfasts are princely.
EAT The famous apple cake at
Kafe Seterstua (Frognerseteren,
Holmenkollveien 200, 22 92 40 40)
can be enjoyed with panoramic views
from the sun terrace. Back at the
Holmenkollen Park Hotel Rica, De Fem
Stuer (Kongeveien 26, 22 92 20 00)
offers fine dining with a Norwegian
twist, with offerings such as reindeer
steak or brown cheese ice-cream with
sea buckthorn.
CULTURE The best view in town is
from the tower of the Holmenkollen
ski jump (Kongeveien 5). There is a ski
museum and jump simulator, and you
can even abseil from the tower.
The Nordic Combined World Cup takes
place on the 15-17 March; for tickets,
call 815 33 133.
80 march 2013
FLY TO oslo twice daily. brusselsairlines.com

Foto: CH/www.visitnorway.com
WHEN ARRIVING AT OSLO AIRPORT, YOU ARE IN THE HEART OF THE
OSLO REGION AND CAN EASILY VISIT ALL PARTS OF THE REGION.
www.flyOSL.com
See you soon !
Cheers !
INTERNATIONAL UNIVERSITY
IN GENEVA
STUDY IN SWITZERLAND
Bachelor and Master
programs in:
NEW Doctorates in Business/
Public Administration
in partnership with Plymouth University (UK)
ICC · Rte de Pré-Bois 20 · 1215 Geneva 15 · Switzerland
Tel.: +41(0)22 710 71 10/12 · Fax: +41(0)22 710 71 11
Email: info@iun.ch · www.iun.ch
Foto: VisitOSLO/Matjaz Intihar

u bcn txl bud edi gva ncl osl tlv vce vno
TEL AVIV
israel
7,933,200 +972 15°C
New Israeli Shekel (nis)
daily
Leigh Cuen
the city that never sleeps makes a perfect
spring break for shopping and streetlife
JAFFA
This beautiful, centuries-old
port offers a stroll through time,
from its ancient remains and
thriving outdoor shuk (market)
to its style-conscious boutiques
and burgeoning art scene.
SLEEP Directly across from the Old
Jaffa shuk sits the inexpensive Old
Jaffa Hostel & Guesthouse (13 Amiad
Street, (0)3 682 2370, telaviv-hostel.
com, doubles from €50/NIS250).
From the rooftop deck, guests can
enjoy a view of Jaffa’s iconic clock
tower and the Mediterranean Sea.
EAT A local fixture since 1966, founded
by a family of the same name, Abu
Hassan (1 Dolphin Street, (0)3 682
0387) is renowned for its hummus.
There are a couple of sister outposts
these days, but the original Dolphin
Street venue still makes just one giant
batch of hummus per day, from the
family’s coveted secret recipe.
SHOP Tel Aviv-Yafo Tourism (see
info, right) runs various free walking
tours, including a Wednesday-morning
visit to Old Jaffa and the fleamarket
(the Shuk Ha Pishpishim) – a labyrinth
of stalls selling second-hand goods,
trinkets, oriental rugs, junk, jewellery
and Judaica.
TIP Haggling is elevated to an art form
in the fleamarket; feel free to offer your
own price and not agree to the first,
second, or sometimes even third price
INFO
Ben Gurion Airport
(TLV) is 15km
south east of
Tel Aviv.
Train
The train station
is on level S of the
Landside Building,
next to the Greeters’
Hall. The train stops
at Ha’Hagana (10
minutes from the
airport), Ha’Shalom
(15 minutes) and
Savidor (20
minutes); a ticket
costs €3/NIS15.
Taxi
The taxi journey can
take anything from
20 minutes to an
hour, depending on
traffi c. Services are
regulated, and the
fare is €27.50/
NIS140 to €31.50/
NIS160.
Tourist info
The main offi ce is
at 46 Herbert
Samuel Promenade,
(0)3 516 6188,
visit-tlv.com
offered. A skilled shopper can come
away from the shuk with quite a bit
of booty, including keepsakes that
sell for three or four times the price
in Jerusalem’s tourist havens.
FLORENTIN
Covered with street art, this
downtown neighbourhood in Tel
Aviv is often compared to SoHo
and the Lower East Side of New
York. At night, it’s bursting with
music, wine and colour.
CULTURE Multilingual local Guy
Sharett (streetwisehebrew.com)
offers guided tours exploring Tel Aviv’s
spice market and street art. Whether
or not you book a tour, keep your
eyes open around Florentin, with
its streetside stencils, graffiti,
murals and tags.
LATER Intimate and unpretentious,
Stern1 Bar (1 Stern Street) is a
favourite with Israeli celebrities. It
has an extensive selection of beers,
including some local brews. For music,
squeeze into Levontin 7 (7 Levontin
Street), a cosy venue that often hosts
new artists from the underground
Israeli jazz scene.
OLD NORTH & THE PORT
Between the sea and the Yarkon
River lies Tel Aviv’s Old North,
a smart neighbourhood full of
boutiques and cafés. It ends
Sip a seriously rich hot
chocolate at Max Brenner
at the port, which teems with
life both day and night.
SLEEP Unwind at the aptly named
Shalom Hotel & Relax (216 Hayarkon
Street, (0)3 762 5400, atlas.co.il,
rooms from €164/823NIS). Its 51
rooms have chic, beachhouse-style
décor, while the rooftop deck offers
breathtaking ocean views and a jacuzzi.
EAT Israeli chocolatier Max Brenner
(Yarkon Estuary, (0)3 544 5480) has
three chocolate shops and cafés in Tel
Aviv; head to this one to sample the
superb hot chocolate. Shila (182 Ben
Yehuda Street, (0)57 943 9018) is a
clamorous, much-loved seafood
restaurant, whose menu runs from
delicate fish carpaccio to freshly grilled
calamari; if you’re on a budget, check
out the lunchtime deals.
SHOP Dizengoff Street is full of
international and Israeli fashion
boutiques – and a cluster of famous
wedding dress designers. Yosef Peretz
(no. 213) is a master of surreal prints,
fluid silhouettes and edgy glamour,
while Cala (no. 184) sells rails of vintage
dresses alongside its own playful
designs. For distinctive, beautifully
made women’s shoes and boots, drop
by Shani Bar (no. 151).
TIP A great way to get around Tel Aviv
is by renting a set of wheels from the
friendly Wheel Bee Bike Rental
(wheelbeetlv.com), which also has
electric, tandem and children’s bikes.
82 march 2013
FLY TO tel aviv daily. brusselsairlines.com

u bcn txl bud edi gva ncl osl tlv vce vno
venice
italy
61,261,254
Euro (EUR)
Twice daily
+39 8°C
Roderick Conway Morris
March brings soft breezes and sunny days
to the glittering city of canals
SANTA MARIA FORMOSA
The ancient church that forms
the centre of this fascinating
neighourhood, just a few minutes’
walk from St Mark’s Square,
owes its existence to a seventhcentury
bishop’s vision of a
beautiful (formosa) Virgin Mary.
SLEEP The restored 16th-century
palazzo on the district’s central square
is now the splendid Ruzzini Palace
Hotel (Campo Santa Maria Formosa
5866, (0)41 241 0447, ruzzinipalace.
com, rooms from €270). The staff are
welcoming, 10 rooms have views over
the square and the royal suite’s ceilings
are adorned with baroque frescoes.
EAT An intimate locale with friendly
service, Testiere (Calle del Mondo
Nuovo 5801, (0)41 522 7220) is tiny;
book to secure a table. It specialises
in fish dishes, made from the freshest
ingredients and given imaginative
new twists with the subtle use of
herbs and spices.
CULTURE Giovanni Grimani, a
16th-century collector of ancient and
contemporary works, spent a large
part of his long life turning Palazzo
Grimani (Ramo Grimani 4858) into a
palace of art. Its marvellous frescoed,
marbled, stuccoed and gilded interiors
are now at last open to the public again.
SHOP Pick up beautiful clothes and
bags made from silks, brocades,
damasks and velvets at Banco.no.10
FLY TO venice twice daily. brusselsairlines.com
INFO
Venice Marco Polo
airport is located
on the northern
edge of the lagoon.
Taxi
A taxi to Piazzale
Roma costs about
€40. A water taxi
costs around €100.
Bus
ACTV no.5 to
Piazzale Roma,
takes about 20
minutes and costs
€6. The ATVO
shuttle takes 15-20
minutes for the
same price.
Boat
The Alilaguna ferries
run from the dock
500m from arrivals,
6.10am-12.10am
to San Marco;
8.45am-6.45pm
as far as Zattere.
Tickets cost €15,
alilaguna.it.
Tourist info
Piazza San Marco
71/F, (0)41 529 8711,
turismovenezia.it
(Salizada Sant’ Antonin 3478), all
made at the atelier in the women’s
prison on Giudecca.
TIP You can avoid the crowds even
in St Mark’s Square. The Secret
Itineraries Tour, for small groups,
takes you behind the scenes in
the Doge’s Palace (palazzoducale.
visitmuve.it), through hidden warrens
of antique offices, prisons and even into
the roof above the ‘suspended ceiling’
of the vast Great Council Chamber.
CAMPO SANTA
MARGHERITA & AROUND
The heart of the Dorsoduro district,
this spacious square with its
colourful food stalls is a meeting
place for locals and a children’s
playground during the day. After
dark, it becomes one of the city’s
liveliest nightspots.
EAT Just off Campo San Barnaba, a
neighbouring square, are two small
restaurants next door to one another,
one specialising in fish and the other,
meat. Quatro Feri (Calle Lunga San
Barnaba 2754/A, (0)41 520 6978)
offers traditional Venetian starters such
as bacalà mantecato (whipped salt cod)
and pasta dishes, including spaghetti
alle vongole with carpet-shell clams.
The bistrot-style La Bitta (Calle Lunga
San Barnaba 2753/A, (0)41 523 0531)
serves pasta and gnocchi and succulent
steaks, and has a little walled garden.
The ceremonial staircase
at the Palazzo Grimani
SHOP Signor Blum (Campo San
Barnaba 2840) makes hand-crafted
wooden toys, mobiles, clocks and
panels with charming Venice and
lagoon scenes.
LATER Great for people watching,
corner café Margaret Duchamp
(Campo Santa Margherita 3019) is
one of the most popular rendezvous
for a drink or a snack.
ZATTERE
The long stretch of south-facing
quay along the wide Giudecca
Canal takes its name from the
rafts (zattere) of timber that
were floated downriver from the
Alps to supply the boatbuilders’
yards that once lined the shore.
SLEEP Victorian art historian John
Ruskin, who described himself as ‘a
foster child of Venice’, lodged at La
Calcina (Fondamenta Zattere 780,
(0)41 520 6466, rooms from €150),
with its panoramic view over the
Giudecca Canal. Now a comfortable
modern hotel, it also has a good
restaurant, La Piscina.
EAT Just off the Zattere, at the
ever-popular Ai Schiavi (Fondamenta
Priuli 992), Sandra Gastaldi offers an
enticing array of fresh Venetian cichetti
(tapas-like snacks), while her three
sons dispense wines sourced from all
over Italy. Wine can also be purchased
by the bottle to take home as a gift.
march 2013 83

u bcn txl bud edi gva ncl osl tlv vce vno
vilnius
lithuania
3,535,547 +370 -1°C
Lithuanian Litas (LTL)
six times weekly
Robin MCKelvie
As the Lithuanian capital awakens from
winter, the cultural scene steps up a notch
OLD TOWN
The world-famous boulevard,
a kaleidoscope of colour and
characters, runs down past the
oldest part of town, where you’ll
find medieval palaces, charming
squares and stylish boutiques.
SLEEP Ramada Hotel & Suites
(Subaciaus 2, 5255 3355,
ramadavilnius.lt, rooms from €109/
LTL375) is just within the 16th-century
city gate known as the Gate of Dawn.
Rooms are spacious and well equipped,
and there’s a bathhouse on hand to
ease tired muscles.
EAT Sturdy, traditional cuisine is on
the menu at atmospheric Amatininku
Uzeiga (Didzioji 19/2, 5261 7968),
from beetroot soup to the stuffed
potato dumplings known as zeppelins.
Bistro 18 (Stikliu Gatve 18, 6830 3673),
is a wine shop and bistro in one, with a
menu that runs from well-executed
risottos to braised rabbit with garlic,
olives and white wine.
CULTURE To take the cultural
heartbeat of Vilnius, pop in for a
coffee at the CAC Café at the
Contemporary Art Centre (Vokieciu
2). Bohemian types and local artists
INFO
Vilnius Airport is
5km south of the
city centre.
Train
A fast train leaves
every hour in peak
times and takes
seven minutes to
the central station.
Tickets cost
€0.72/LTL2.50.
Bus
The no.1 goes to the
central train station
every 30 minutes.
Tickets cost
€0.58/LTL2.
Taxi
It takes around 15
minutes to the city
centre and
should cost about
€14.50/LTL50.
Tourist info
Vilniaus Gatve 22,
5262 9660,
vilnius-tourism.it
hang out here, and you can find out
about events and exhibitions you might
otherwise miss.
SHOP Ona (Sv Kazimiero 12) sells all
sorts of accessories and homeware
produced by local artists and designers,
from chunky, felted bead necklaces to
one-off porcelain vases.
GEDIMINO
This is the Lithuanian capital’s
Champs-Élysées – a sweeping
boulevard, replete with chic cafés,
thronged bars and restaurants, not
to mention acres of retail space.
EAT Free wi-fi and fresh,
Mediterranean-style cuisine are
the main attractions at Esse
(Gedimino 50/2, 5210 2511),
which does an excellent moules
marinières and is popular with
the business crowd.
SHOP More and more international
brands are springing up on Gedimino,
so head here for some retail therapy.
There's also a shopping centre,
Gedimino 9 (Gedimino 9).
LATER For uninhibited, hands-in-the-air
fun, Ministerija (Gedimino 46) is the
place. Something of an old-timer, it still
Do you want to stay dry travelling through Europe?
Rent an Avis car. AD
www.brusselsairlines.com/avis
The 16th-century Gate of
Dawn – once part of the
city's defensive walls
packs in both locals and tourists. Down
a steep set of stairs in a vaulted brick
cellar, Bambalyne (Stikliu 7) specialises
in bottled beers from small-scale
breweries – including some nonpasteurised,
unfiltered beers.
NORTH OF THE RIVER
Just across the River Neris, the
emerging business quarter is
changing the city’s skyline with
its glass and steel skyscrapers.
SLEEP The Best Western Vilnius
(Konstitucijos 14, 5273 9595,
bestwestern.com, rooms from €69/
LTL238) has free wi-fi, an indoor pool
with a sauna and spa, and free on-site
parking, while the 22-storey Radisson
Blu Hotel Lietuva (Konstitucijos 20,
5272 6272, radissonblu.com, rooms
from €76/LTL260) soars over the
city. Ask for a room with views back
to the Old Town.
LATER High above the city, the
SkyBar (Radisson Blu Hotel Lietuva,
Konstitucijos 20), offers sweeping
views and pretty decent cocktails.
TIP Take a morning stroll along the river
to appreciate the old and new aspects
of Vilnius as the city wakes up.

PIERRE - YVES
AALST
BRUSSEL
WWW.PIERRE-YVES.BE
Linea Raffaelli
Linea Raffaelli

airline news
Keep up to date with all the latest news and information from
87 Airline news | 91 In partnership | 92 b.foundation | 94 Choose how you fly | 96 Check-in
97 Safety | 98 Comfort | 99 Fleet | 100 Miles & More | 102 Maps | 105 Airport info
New direct service to Washington
Brussels Airlines will fl y between Brussels and Washington 5 times per week, as from 18 June 2013
Following the successful launch of a daily
service to New York last year, Brussels
Airlines will open its second
transatlantic destination in June this year:
Washington Dulles International Airport.
The route between the capital of the United
States and the capital of Europe will be
operated with Airbus A330 aircraft.
Passengers can expect the new long-haul
cabin on board with the highest levels of
quality and relaxation, including a premium
fully-horizontal flatbed with a pneumatic
cushion in Business Class and an ergonomic
seat with generous legroom in Economy
Class, as well as an individual touchscreen
monitor with over 100 hours of entertainment.
Other highlights on board include an
international menu and award-winning wines.
With a late afternoon departure from
Brussels Airport, passengers will arrive
in Washington in the early evening, and
can connect smoothly to more than 40
destinations in USA and Canada, thanks to
the cooperation with partner airline UNITED.
Passengers from Brussels Airlines’
European destinations will also enjoy a
smooth transfer in Brussels to the flight
departing for Washington.
From Washington, the flight will depart in the
late evening and arrive in Brussels the next day,
allowing for smooth connections to Brussels
Airlines’ African and European network.
Washington is the capital of USA, and
its world-famous landmarks include the
White House, Capitol Hill and the Pentagon.
What’s more, the city offers a wealth of
cultural attractions and experiences,
including the world-renowned Smithsonian
museums, the United States Botanic Garden
and numerous libraries.
To book your Brussels Airlines flight to
Washington, go to brusselsairlines.com
stay connected to brussels airlines
Follow @FlyingBrussels on Twitter, join facebook.com/brusselsairlines or see pinterest.com/flyingbrussels
MARCH 2013 87

88
airline news
Nouveau vol direct à
destination de Washington
À compter du 18 juin 2013, Brussels Airlines assurera 5 vols
hebdomadaires entre Bruxelles et Washington
Suite au succès rencontré par le lancement d’un vol quotidien
à destination de New York l’année dernière, Brussels Airlines
s’apprête à inaugurer sa deuxième destination transatlantique
au mois de juin prochain : Washington Dulles International Airport. Ce
nouveau vol reliant la capitale des États-Unis à celle de l’Europe sera
opéré en Airbus A330. Les passagers profiteront de la nouvelle
expérience long-courrier garantissant le plus haut niveau de qualité et
de confort à bord, avec notamment un fauteuil se transformant en lit
parfaitement plat avec coussin pneumatique en classe Business, et d’un
nouveau siège ergonomique avec davantage d’espace pour les jambes
en classe Economy, ainsi qu’un écran tactile individuel doté de plus de
100 heures de divertissement à la demande. Les gourmets se réjouiront
de pouvoir déguster à bord un menu international et des vins primés.
Les passagers décolleront de Brussels Airport en fin d’après-midi
pour arriver en début de soirée à Washington, où les attendront des
correspondances rapides et faciles vers plus de 40 destinations aux
États-Unis et au Canada, en collaboration avec notre partenaire United.
Les passagers en provenance du réseau européen de Brussels Airlines
profiteront également d’un transfert aisé à Bruxelles pour le vol à
destination de Washington. Au départ de Washington, le vol s’envolera
en fin de soirée pour arriver le lendemain à Bruxelles, où les passagers
pourront facilement continuer leur voyage vers les pays africains et
Nieuwe rechtstreekse
verbinding met Washington
Vanaf 18 juni 2013 zal Brussels Airlines 5 keer per week tussen Brussel
en Washington vliegen
Na de succesvolle lancering vorig jaar van een dagelijkse
vlucht naar New York, biedt Brussels Airlines vanaf juni
een tweede trans-Atlantische bestemming aan: Washington
Dulles International Airport. De route tussen de hoofdstad van de
Verenigde Staten en de hoofdstad van Europa zal worden uitgevoerd
met Airbus A330-toestellen, met aan boord de nieuwe lange
afstandscabine. De passagiers kunnen dus rekenen op het
hoogste niveau van kwaliteit en ontspanning, dankzij een volledig
horizontaal ‘flatbed’ met een pneumatisch kussen in Business
Class, ergonomische stoelen met veel beenruimte in Economy
Class en een persoonlijke inflight entertainment systeem met
ruim 100 uur entertainment. Er kan gerekend worden op een
Scan this code with your smartphone to find
out more about the new long-haul cabin, or
visit brusselsairlines.com/experience
MARCH 2013
Scannez ce code à l’aide de votre smartphone pour plus
d’informations sur la nouvelle cabine long courrier ou
visitez brusselsairlines.com/experience.
européens desservis par Brussels Airlines.
Capitale des États-Unis, Washington abrite de célèbres monuments
comme la Maison Blanche, Capitol Hill et le Pentagone. La ville offre
en outre une multitude d’attractions culturelles et d’expériences en
tous genres, avec entre autres les musées mondialement célèbres
de la Smithsonian Institution, le Jardin Botanique ainsi que de
nombreuses bibliothèques.
Pour réserver votre vol Brussels Airlines à destination de Washington,
rendez-vous sur brusselsairlines.com
internationaal menu en bekroonde wijnen aan boord.
De vlucht vanuit Brussels Airport vertrekt in de late namiddag,
waardoor passagiers in de vroege avond aankomen in Washington.
Dankzij een samenwerking met partnermaatschappij United.
kunnen ze vervolgens vlot overstappen om door te reizen naar
meer dan 40 bestemmingen in de VS en Canada. Passagiers vanuit
Europese bestemmingen van Brussels Airlines kunnen rekenen op
een makkelijke overstap in Brussel voor de vlucht naar Washington.
De vlucht vanuit Washington vertrekt laat op de avond en komt de
volgende dag aan in Brussel, wat een gemakkelijke aansluiting
mogelijk maakt met het Afrikaanse en Europese netwerk van
Brussels Airlines.
Washington is de hoofdstad van de Verenigde Staten. Bekende
bezienswaardigheden zijn het Witte Huis, Capitol Hill en het
Pentagon. Daarnaast biedt de stad een brede waaier aan culturele
attracties en belevenissen, zoals de wereldberoemde Smithsonian
Musea, de Botanic Garden en tal van bibliotheken.
Uw vlucht naar Washington boeken met Brussels Airlines?
Ga naar brusselsairlines.com.
Scan deze code met uw smartphone en ontdek meer
over onze nieuwe lange afstandscabine, of surf naar
brusselsairlines.com/experience.

Free city-card
in Bilbao
Turn your visit into an even more enjoyable
experience with the Bilbao Card
Brussels Airlines passengers arriving in Bilbao can
now receive the Bilbao Card for free. The card offers
promotional rates on the Spanish city’s best spots,
including discounts on cultural sites, museums and galleries,
as well as shops and restaurants. In addition, passengers
will find it easier to move around the city as the Bilbao Card
also entitles the holder to two days of free public transport
in the city, including the metro, tram and bus.
Passengers can pick up their free Bilbao Card throughout
2013 by showing their Brussels Airlines boarding pass
(Brussels-Bilbao) at the Bilbao Tourist Office, in front of
the Guggenheim Museum (Alameda Mazarredo, 66).
Located in north-central Spain, Bilbao is the largest
and most lively city in the Basque Country. With many
spectacular projects and impressive contemporary
architecture, this is one of Spain’s most exciting cities.
Brussels Airlines offers two flights daily between
Brussels and Bilbao.
For more information on the full benefits
of the Bilbao Card, please visit
bilbao.net/bilbaoturismo
Recevez une city-card
de Bilbao gratuite
Pour faire de votre séjour à Bilbao une expérience encore plus agréable
D
ésormais, les passagers de Brussels Airlines peuvent recevoir
gratuitement une city-card à leur arrivée à Bilbao. Cette carte
offre des tarifs promotionnels sur les meilleurs endroits de la
ville espagnole, y compris des réductions sur les billets d’entrée de sites
culturels, musées et galeries, et des prix avantageux dans certains magasins
et restaurants. Et pour vous déplacer, rien de plus simple, puisque la carte
vous permet d’emprunter gratuitement les transports en commun métro,
tram et bus pendant 2 jours.
Les passagers sont invités à retirer leur city-card tout au long de l’année
2013 en présentant leur carte d’embarquement Brussels Airlines (Bruxelles-
Bilbao) à l’Office du tourisme de Bilbao, situé en face du Musée Guggenheim
(Alameda Mazarredo, 66).
Située au centre de l’Espagne septentrionale, Bilbao est la plus grande et
la plus dynamique des villes du Pays Basque. Riche d’une impressionnante
architecture contemporaine et d’une multitude de projets spectaculaires,
elle compte parmi les plus séduisantes des villes espagnoles.
Brussels Airlines propose deux vols quotidiens entre Bruxelles et Bilbao.
Pour de plus amples informations sur tous les avantages de la city-card de
Bilbao, rendez-vous sur bilbao.net/bilbaoturismo
Gratis stadspas voor
Bilbao
Maak uw bezoek nog onvergetelijker met de BilbaoCard
P
assagiers van Brussels Airlines die in Bilbao aankomen,
krijgen de BilbaoCard nu gratis en voor niets! De kaart biedt
promotarieven voor de niet te missen trekpleisters van de
Spaanse stad, met kortingen voor culturele bezienswaardigheden,
musea en kunstgalerieën, maar ook winkels en restaurants. En je kunt
je bovendien vlot door de stad verplaatsen, want de BilbaoCard geeft
ook recht op twee dagen gratis openbaar vervoer – metro, tram en bus.
Passagiers kunnen hun gratis BilbaoCard het hele jaar 2013 lang
afhalen op vertoon van hun instapkaart van Brussels Airlines
(Brussel-Bilbao) op de toeristische dienst van Bilbao, tegenover
het Guggenheim-museum (Alameda Mazarredo 66).
Bilbao ligt centraal in Noord-Spanje en is de grootste en meest
bruisende stad van het Baskenland. Met haar vele opzienbarende
projecten en indrukwekkende moderne architectuur is dit een van
de opwindendste steden van Spanje.
Brussels Airlines biedt elke dag twee vluchten tussen
Brussel en Bilbao.
Surf voor meer informatie over alle voordelen van de BilbaoCard naar
bilbao.net/bilbaoturismo
MARCH 2013 89

90
airline news
Take to the skies
Brussels Airlines organises courses to help
overcome fear of fl ying
Do you know someone who would like to go on holiday
and visit new places but is too afraid to fly? Does flying
turn a business trip into a nightmare? Help is at hand!
Brussels Airlines has been organising fear of flying courses
since 2006 to help people overcome this phobia. Tried and
tested scientific training methods, committed expert trainers
and a personalised follow-up session combine to deliver a
successful and enjoyable course.
The two-day course is open to anyone over 18 years of age
who wishes to (re)gain the freedom to use an aircraft as they
would any other means of transport. The first day of the
course covers the theoretical and psychological aspects,
offering participants all the necessary tools to help them
overcome their fear.
A short flight on the second day gives participants the chance
to practise what was learned the previous day. Chances of success
are high: 96% of course participants see their fear diminish.
The fear of flying course is conducted several times a year.
At present, the course is only available in Dutch and French.
The first course dates are in March 2013.
For more information on the course, please visit nofeartofly.org
Prenez votre envol
Brussels Airlines organise des cours pour aider à surmonter
la peur de l’avion
Vous connaissez quelqu’un qui adorerait partir en vacances et
visiter de nouveaux coins de la planète, mais que la peur de
l’avion cloue au sol ? Un voyage d’affaires se transforme en pur
cauchemar à cause du vol ? Il existe une solution !
Pour aider les gens à vaincre cette phobie, Brussels Airlines organise
depuis 2006 des cours visant à contrer la peur de l’avion. Des méthodes
scientifiques éprouvées, des formateurs spécialisés et un suivi personnalisé
garantissent un cours agréable qui se traduit par de vrais résultats.
Ce cours de deux jours est ouvert à toute personne âgée de plus de 18
ans et qui souhaite (re)gagner la liberté de monter dans un avion comme
elle le ferait dans n’importe quel autre moyen de transport. Le premier
jour de formation couvre les aspects théoriques et psychologiques en
offrant aux participants tous les outils nécessaires pour les aider à
surmonter leur peur. Le deuxième jour, un court vol aller-retour donne
aux participants l’occasion de mettre en pratique ce qu’ils ont appris la
veille. Les chances de succès sont élevées : 96 % des participants voient
leur peur diminuer.
Le cours ‘voler sans peur’ est organisé plusieurs fois par an, et est
donné en français et en néerlandais. Les premières dates sont fixées au
mois de mars 2013.
Pour de plus amples informations sur ce cours, rendez-vous sur
volersanspeur.org
MARCH 2013
Vlieg met ons mee
Brussels Airlines organiseert een cursus om vliegangst
te overwinnen
Kent u iemand die wel graag op vakantie zou willen vertrekken
en nieuwe oorden wil verkennen maar niet durft te vliegen? Is
elke zakenreis een nachtmerrie door uw vliegangst? Wij
snellen u ter hulp!
Brussels Airlines organiseert al sinds 2006 vliegcursussen om
mensen over hun vliegfobie heen te helpen. Beproefde
wetenschappelijke oefenmethodes, toegewijde en deskundige
begeleiders en een persoonlijke follow-up staan garant voor een
succesvolle en aangename cursus.
De tweedaagse cursus is toegankelijk voor iedereen die minstens
18 jaar oud is en graag (weer) aan boord van een vliegtuig zou
gaan alsof hij gewoon op de bus stapt. De eerste dag van de
cursus gaan we in op de theoretische en psychologische aspecten
en reiken we de deelnemers middelen aan om hun vliegangst te
overwinnen. Op de tweede dag geeft een korte vlucht hun dan de
kans om wat ze de vorige dag hebben geleerd in praktijk te brengen.
De slaagkansen zijn hoog: 96% van de deelnemers heeft na de
cursus minder angst.
De vliegangstcursus wordt meerdere keren per jaar georganiseerd.
Momenteel is hij enkel te volgen in het Nederlands en het Frans. De
eerstvolgende cursus vindt plaats in maart 2013.
Surf voor meer informatie naar vliegangst.org

in partnership
An unforgettable
challenge
Brussels Airlines partners the Togo Jungle
Challenge to offer you a unique experience
The second edition of the Togo Jungle Challenge, a mountain bike
marathon in the heart of West Africa, will take place this year in
November. Crossing Togo and Benin, the unforgettable challenge is
a Belgian initiative which combines adventure, team spirit and fun. The
route covers 600km, broken down into seven stages, and passes through
wilderness, jungle, savannah, tropical forests and rivers.
The challenge starts in Kpalimé, about 100km north of the Togolese
capital Lomé, and takes participants through rarely used bush tracks,
green mountains, plains and woods, finally coming to an end on the
palm-tree lined white sand beach of Grand Popo in Benin.
While the daily average distance covered (85km), together with the
hot and humid climate and the total climbing distance of 5,480m will
pose a tough challenge, participants can rest assured that speed is
not an important factor. Each participant will cycle at his or her own
pace, with the ultimate goal being the completion of all seven stages.
The maximum number of participants is 120. Cyclists can count on the
Un challenge inoubliable
Brussels Airlines s’associe au Togo Jungle Challenge pour vous
offrir une expérience unique
La seconde édition du Togo Jungle Challenge, un marathon
V.T.T. au cœur de l’Afrique de l’Ouest, se tiendra cette année
en novembre. Cet incroyable challenge, au cours duquel les
participants traversent le Togo et le Bénin, est une initiative belge
combinant aventure, esprit d’équipe et une bonne dose de plaisir.
L’itinéraire couvre 600 km divisés en sept étapes, et traverse
étendues sauvages, jungle, savane, forêts tropicales et rivières.
Le challenge débutera à Kpalimé, à quelque 100 km au nord de
Lomé, la capitale togolaise, et entraînera les participants sur des
routes à peine fréquentées à travers le bush, des montagnes
verdoyantes, des plaines et dans des forêts, pour aboutir sur la
plage de sable blanc bordée de palmiers de Grand Popo, au Bénin.
Si la distance moyenne quotidienne de 85 km, alliée au climat
chaud et humide et monter 5,480m en total s’avérera certainement
être un défi de taille, les participants peuvent d’ores et déjà se
rassurer en sachant que la vitesse ne constituera pas un facteur
important. Chaque cycliste courra à son propre rythme, l’objectif
ultime étant de parcourir les sept étapes.
Le nombre maximum de participants est de 120. Les cyclistes
pourront compter sur le soutien d’une équipe de 30 personnes
incluant des médecins et des cuisiniers. Le transport des participants
et de leurs vélos sera assuré par Brussels Airlines.
Le Togo Jungle Challenge aura lieu du 13 au 23 novembre 2013. Pour plus
d’informations, rendez vous sur le site Internet togo-jungle-challenge.com.
support of a team of 30 people, including doctors and cooks. Transport
of participants and their bicycles will be provided by Brussels Airlines.
The Togo Jungle Challenge takes place 13 - 23 November 2013. For more
information, please visit togo-jungle-challenge.com
Een onvergetelijke
uitdaging
Brussels Airlines is partner van de Togo Jungle Challenge om u
een unieke ervaring te laten beleven.
De tweede editie van de Togo Jungle Challenge, een
mountainbikemarathon midden in West-Afrika, vindt dit
jaar plaats in november. Deze onvergetelijke uitdaging
dwars door Togo en Benin is een Belgisch initiatief en combineert
avontuur, teamspirit en plezier. Het totale traject van 600km is
opgesplitst in zeven etappes en doorkruist wildernis, jungle,
savanne, tropische wouden en rivieren.
De challenge gaat van start in Kpalimé, ongeveer honderd
kilometer ten noorden van de Togolese hoofdstad Lomé. Vervolgens
fietsen de deelnemers over nauwelijks gebruikte junglepaden,
groene heuvellandschappen, vlaktes en door bossen, om uiteindelijk
aan te komen op het bountystrand van Grand-Popo in Benin.
De gemiddelde dagafstand van 85 kilometer, in combinatie met
het warme, vochtige klimaat en een totaal van 5,480 hoogtemeters,
zorgen voor de ultieme uitdaging. Snelheid staat niet centraal. Het
doel is dat elke deelnemer in zijn of haar tempo de zeven etappes
volledig uitrijdt.
Er mogen maximaal 120 mountainbikers deelnemen. Zij kunnen
rekenen op ondersteuning door een team van dertig mensen,
waaronder dokters, koks en mecaniciens. Brussels Airlines verzorgt
het vervoer van de deelnemers en hun fietsen.
De Togo Jungle Challenge vindt plaats van 13 tot 23 november 2013.
Kijk voor meer informatie op togo-jungle-challenge.com.
MARCH 2013 91

92
b.foundation
Caring for Cameroon
Brussels Airlines employees show they care for Cameroon
Every year around the year-end holiday season, Brussels Airlines
employees organise a donation drive to collect toys and other
materials for humanitarian projects in Africa.
In 2012, Brussels Airlines employees managed to accumulate 20 boxes
filled with donated material including shoes, blankets, washing powder,
buggies and scooters, which were then handed over to AFRAD, a privately-run
orphanage in Yaoundé. The donations were handed over by the local Brussels
Airlines team in the presence of a representative from the Cameroonian Ministry
of Social Affairs. To the children’s delight, one of the local Brussels Airlines staff
dressed up as Santa Claus, and the event was broadcast on national television
in Cameroon.
Earlier last year, Brussels Airlines also sponsored the Challenge Camerounais
in Stuttgart, the biggest cultural, economic and sporting event of the
Cameroonian diaspora in Europe. All profits from the event were handed over
to a state-owned centre for children in Yaoundé, the Centre d’Accueil des
Enfants en Détresse (CAED). The funds, together with another 15 boxes filled
with donations, were handed over by the local Brussels Airlines team in
December, in the presence of the German ambassador.
Ensemble pour le
Cameroun
Les employés de Brussels Airlines font preuve de
solidarité envers le Cameroun
Chaque année aux alentours des fêtes de fin d’année, les
employés de Brussels Airlines organisent une campagne de
dons afin de récolter des jouets et autres équipements pour
des projets humanitaires en Afrique.
En 2012, les employés de Brussels Airlines sont parvenus à réunir 20
cartons remplis de dons, notamment des chaussures, des couvertures,
de la lessive en poudre, des poussettes et autres trottinettes, qui ont
ensuite été apportés à l’AFRAD, un orphelinat privé de Yaoundé. Les
donations ont été remises par l’équipe locale de Brussels Airlines en
présence d’un représentant du ministère camerounais des Affaires
Sociales. À la grande joie des enfants, l’un des membres de l’équipe
locale de Brussels Airlines s’était déguisé en Père Noël, et l’événement
a été diffusé sur la chaîne télévisée nationale du Cameroun.
Plus tôt dans l’année, Brussels Airlines avait par ailleurs sponsorisé
le Challenge Camerounais de Stuttgart, le plus grand événement
culturel, économique et sportif de la diaspora camerounaise en Europe.
Tous les bénéfices de l’événement étaient destinés à un centre d’État
pour les enfants de Yaoundé, le Centre d’Accueil des Enfants en
Détresse (CAED). Les fonds, ainsi que 15 cartons contenant des dons
divers, ont été remis en décembre par l’équipe locale de Brussels
Airlines en présence de l’ambassadeur allemand.
Scan this code with your smartphone to
find out more about b.foundation, or visit
brusselsairlines.com/CSR
MARCH 2013
Pour en savoir plus sur b.foundation, scannez
ce code avec votre smartphone ou surfez sur
brusselsairlines.com/CSR
Begaan met Kameroen
Het personeel van Brussels Airlines toont zich
begaan met Kameroen
Elk jaar rond de eindejaarsperiode organiseren werknemers
van Brussels Airlines een donatiecampagne om speelgoed
en ander materiaal in te zamelen voor humanitaire projecten
in Afrika.
In 2012 wisten de werknemers van Brussels Airlines twintig kisten
te vullen met gedoneerde spullen, zoals schoenen, dekens,
waspoeder, kinderwagens en scooters. Alles werd overhandigd aan
AFRAD, een particulier weeshuis in Yaoundé. De donaties werden
overhandigd door het plaatselijke team van Brussels Airlines, in
aanwezigheid van een vertegenwoordiger van het Kameroense
ministerie van Sociale Zaken. Tot grote vreugde van de kinderen
had een van de plaatselijke werknemers van Brussels Airlines zich
als Kerstman verkleed, en werd het evenement uitgezonden op de
nationale televisie in Kameroen.
Eerder vorig jaar had Brussels Airlines al de Challenge Camerounais
in Stuttgart gesponsord, het grootste culturele, economische en
sportieve evenement van de Kameroense diaspora in Europa. Alle
opbrengsten van dat evenement waren bestemd voor het Centre
d’Accueil des Enfants en Détresse (CAED), een overheidscentrum
voor kinderen in Yaoundé. Het geld werd, samen met nog eens
vijftien kisten vol gedoneerd materiaal, in december overhandigd
door het plaatselijke team van Brussels Airlines, in aanwezigheid van
de Duitse ambassadeur.
Scan deze code met uw smartphone om meer
te vernemen over b.foundation, of surf naar
brusselsairlines.com/CSR

New!
Brussels Washington
Direct flight 5 times weekly as from 18 June
brusselsairlines.com

†PRICES QUOTED ARE FOR A RETURN TICKET IN B.LIGHT ECONOMY FROM OR TO BRUSSELS, ALL TAXES AND FEES INCLUDED, IF BOOKED ON BRUSSELSAIRLINES.COM. TICKETS ARE NOT CHANGEABLE, NOR REFUNDABLE. PRICES ARE SUBJECT TO CHANGE WITHOUT PRIOR NOTICE
94
Fares
choose how you fly
Cancellation possibility
Pre-flight seat selection
Latest check-in
Luggage allowance
Access through
security via Fast Lane 4
Priority check-in
Premium seating
Newspapers
Meal and drink service
Access to Lounge
Miles & More
Change to earlier flight 8
Change of booking
march 2013
Three great products in Business and
Economy for flying around Europe
Whether you want premium Business Class service, time-saving and total fl exibility, or the
lowest fare guarantee † to 50 European destinations, Brussels Airlines has just the ticket for
you. Check out which option suits you best...
ECONOMY CLASS
■ From €99* return, taxes included
■ No refund possible
■ Yes, for check-in online
■ 60 minutes before departure 1
■ 1 piece of 23kgs checked + 6kgs hand luggage
(1 piece), ski equipment for free 2/3
■ N o
■ N o
■ N o
■ N o
■ For sale on board (see menu card)
■ No lounge access 7
■ 125 or 750 status miles per flight depending
on fare level
■ N o
■ Subject to availability, €50 change fee +
difference between old and new fare
Footnotes (1) Check-in times can vary depending on destination (2) Miles & More Frequent Traveller members are entitled to
one extra piece of 23kgs checked luggage in Economy Class (3) Miles & More HON Circle and Senator as well as Star Alliance
Gold members are entitled to one extra piece of 23kgs checked luggage and 1 golf bag (4) For Business Class passengers
(incl. b.business); Miles & More HON Circle and Senator members (irrespective of class flown); Miles & More Frequent Traveller
members when flying Business, b.business or b.flex economy+; Star Alliance Gold members and b.flex economy+ passengers
The low
fare you
can trust
ECONOMY CLASS
■ Flexible premium economy fares
The best
economy
class in
Europe
■ Fully refundable if cancelled prior to departure
■ Yes
■ 40 minutes before departure 1
■ 1 piece of 23kgs checked + 12kgs hand luggage
(1 piece), ski equipment for free 2/3
■
Berlin Tegel 5 , Birmingham, Bristol, Brussels,
Frankfurt, Geneva, Hamburg, Lisbon, London,
Madrid, Manchester, Milan Linate/Malpensa 4a ,
Moscow, Newcastle, Oslo, Porto, Prague, Rome,
Venice and Vienna
■ Yes
■ Middle seat free if possible
■ Fre e
■ Free snacks and drinks
■ €15 (access only available at Brussels) 7
■ Up to 1,250 status miles per flight
■ Free if seats available upon departure
■ Free subject to availability within the same
fare category 9
(4a) Excluding Star Alliance Gold members (5) Open during peak times only (6) Business Class passengers (incl. b.business),
Miles & More HON Circle and Star Alliance Gold members only (7) Free for Miles & More Frequent Traveller in Lufthansa Group
lounges, and for Star Alliance Gold members in Star Alliance lounges (8) Change to an earlier flight only permitted at the
airport on the day of departure (9) If same fare category or lower is no longer available, then a fare differential is charged.
Fully flexible fare category available.

BUSINESS CLASS
■ Business Class return fares
The class
that puts
you first
■ Fully refundable if cancelled prior to departure
■ Yes
■ 40 minutes before departure 1
■ 2 pieces of 32kgs each checked + total 16kgs hand
luggage (max 2 pieces), ski equipment for free 3
■
Athens, Berlin Tegel 5 , Birmingham, Bristol,
Brussels, Frankfurt, Geneva, Hamburg, Lisbon,
London, Madrid, Manchester, Milan Linate/
Malpensa 4a , Moscow, Newcastle, Oslo, Paris CDG 6 ,
Porto, Prague, Rome, Venice, Vienna and Warsaw
■ Dedicated b.business check-in at Brussels
■ Guaranteed middle seat free
■ Fre e
■ Gourmet dining service, champagne
■ Fre e
■ 2,000 status miles per flight
■ Fre e
■ Free subject to availability
Scan this code with your smartphone to visit
brusselsairlines.com for the latest promotions, flight
updates and other useful information related to your trip.
My profile
Keep up to date with
our exclusive offers
and product updates.
sign up online at
brusselsairlines.com
PRODUCT OPTIONS
Premium Business Class service for
top segment business travellers
Dedicated product for corporate
travellers, offering best value for
money (flexibility, time saving
and onboard service)
Our low fare leisure product. Fares starting
from €99* return, taxes included
Discover
your
check-in
options on
page 96
Visitez brusselsairlines.com en scannant ce code avec
votre smartphone et découvrez nos dernières promotions
ainsi que des informations utiles pour votre voyage.
Scan deze code met uw smartphone om brusselsairlines.com
te bezoeken en blijf op de hoogte van onze laatste promoties,
vlucht-updates en andere nuttige informatie betreffende uw trip.
march 2013 95

96
check-in
Checking in for your Brussels Airlines
flight is simple and hassle-free
S’enregistrer sur son vol
Brussels Airlines n’a jamais été
aussi simple, sûr et efficace
Enregistrement en ligne Gagnez du temps à l’aéroport
■ Enregistrez-vous depuis Internet sur checkin.brusselsairlines.com. N’oubliez pas
d’imprimer votre carte d’embarquement au format pdf.
■ Une fois à l’aéroport, rendez-vous à l’un des points Bagages Drop Off de Brussels Airlines
pour y déposer vos bagages. Dirigez-vous ensuite directement vers la porte d’embarquement.
■ Disponible entre 24 heures et 1 heure avant le départ de votre vol.
Enregistrement Mobile
Idéal pour les personnes toujours en mouvement
■ En surfant sur m.brusselsairlines.com depuis votre appareil mobile, vous pouvez
recevoir directement votre carte d’embarquement sous forme d’un code barre 2D qui sera
scanné à l’aéroport.
■ Rendez-vous alors à l’aéroport à l’un des points Bagages Drop Off de
Brussels Airlines pour y déposer vos bagages. Dirigez-vous ensuite directement
vers la porte d’embarquement.
■ Disponible entre 24 heures et 1 heure avant le départ de votre vol.
Check-in Express Simple et rapide
■ Evitez les files d’attente et enregistrez-vous via nos bornes Express.
■ Ce service est disponible à Brussels Airport ainsi que dans une sélection
d’aéroports européens.
Enregistrement de votre vol retour Un service pratique
■ Si votre vol retour est prévu dans les prochaines 24 heures et que votre réservation est
confirmée, alors vous pouvez vous enregistrer en même temps sur les vols aller et retour.
march 2013
Online check-in
Saves time at the airport
■ Visit checkin.brusselsairlines.com to
check-in. Remember to print the pdf
version of your boarding card.
■ Once at the airport, drop baggage off at
Brussels Airlines Baggage Drop Off
points, and proceed to the gate.
■ Available from 24 hours to one hour
before your flight.
Mobile check-in
Ideal for busy people on the move
■ Visit m.brusselsairlines.com from
your web-enabled mobile device.
The boarding pass will be sent to your
mobile device as a 2D barcode, which
can then be scanned at many locations
in airports.
■ Once at the airport, drop baggage off at
Brussels Airlines Baggage Drop Off
points, and proceed to the gate.
■ Available from 24 hours to one hour
before your flight.
Express check-in
Fast and simple
■ Speed through check-in with our
Express check-in kiosks.
■ This service is available at Brussels
Airport and selected European airports.
Return check-in
Added convenience
■ If you’re returning within 24 hours and
have a confirmed booking, you can
check in for your outbound and return
flights at the same time.
Inchecken voor uw vlucht
met Brussels Airlines kan
eenvoudig en zonder zorgen
Online check-in Bespaart tijd op de luchthaven
■ Check in via checkin.brusselsairlines.com. Denk erom de pdf-versie
van uw instapkaart af te printen.
■ Op de luchthaven zet u uw bagage af aan één van de drop-off points van
Brussels Airlines en loopt u meteen door naar de gate.
■ Beschikbaar vanaf 24 uur tot 1 uur voor het vertrek van uw vlucht.
Mobile check-in Ideaal voor druk bezette mensen die
steeds onderweg zijn
■ Ga naar m.brusselsairlines.com via uw mobiele toestel met
internetverbinding. De instapkaart zal als een streepjescode in 2D naar
uw mobiele toestel verzonden worden. Deze code kan vervolgens
gescand worden op vele plaatsen in luchthavens.
■ Op de luchthaven zet u uw bagage af aan één van de drop-off points van
Brussels Airlines en loopt u meteen door naar de gate.
■ Beschikbaar vanaf 24 uur tot 1 uur voor het vertrek van uw vlucht.
Express Check-in Snel en eenvoudig
■ Snel door de check-in met onze machines voor Express Check-in.
■ Deze dienst is beschikbaar op Brussels Airport en geselecteerde
Europese luchthavens.
Return Check-in Extra comfort
■ Indien u binnen de 24 uur terugkeert en uw boeking reeds bevestigd is,
kunt u tegelijkertijd inchecken voor uw heen- en terugvlucht.

safety
For your safety
and comfort
Welcome on board our fl ight today and
thank you for choosing Brussels Airlines.
Please read the information below
regarding smoking and safety regulations
on board. Should you have any questions,
please ask your cabin attendant.
Electronic devices
No personal communications or radio emitting
devices, such as portable telephones, radios,
GPS locators, games or remote-control toys,
may be used on board*. Please ensure that
your telephone is switched off before and
during the flight. Items such as personal
computers and electronic games may be used
during the flight, but must be switched off
during take-off and landing.
Smoking
In accordance with government regulations,
smoking is not permitted on any Brussels
Airlines flight. Passengers should be aware that
there are smoke detectors in the aircraft’s
toilets and that any breach of this rule may
incur penalties. Additionally, please note that
electronic cigarettes are prohibited on board
all our flights.
Safety procedures
You will find an information sheet on safety
procedures in your seat pocket. Please read it
carefully and please listen attentively to all
safety announcements and instructions
from the crew.
Alcohol
Passengers are not allowed to consume alcohol
they have brought with them or bought on
board. Alcohol may be served on board, but our
cabin crew will not serve any passenger who
they feel has already had too much to drink.
*For the complete list of items whose use is
restricted, please see your safety card located in
the seat pocket in front of you.
Pour votre sécurité
et votre confort
Nous vous souhaitons la bienvenue à
bord de notre vol, et vous remercions
d’avoir choisi Brussels Airlines.
Veuillez lire les informations suivantes
concernant les consignes de sécurité
et l’interdiction de fumer à bord. Pour
toute question, n’hésitez pas à vous
adresser à notre personnel navigant.
Appareils électroniques
Aucun appareil de communication ou émetteur
radio personnel, tel que téléphone portable,
radio, système GPS, jeu ou jouet
télécommandé ne peut être utilisé à bord*.
Veuillez vous assurer que votre téléphone est
bien éteint avant et pendant le vol. L’utilisation
des ordinateurs et jeux électroniques est
autorisée pendant le vol, mais ces appareils
doivent être éteints lors du décollage et de
l’atterrissage.
Interdiction de fumer
Conformément aux réglementations
gouvernementales, tous les vols Brussels
Airlines sont entièrement non-fumeurs. Nous
rappelons aux passagers que les toilettes de
l’avion sont équipées de détecteurs de fumée,
et que toute infraction à ce règlement peut
entraîner une amende. Veuillez également
noter que les cigarettes électroniques ne sont
pas autorisées sur nos vols.
Procédures de sécurité
Vous trouverez dans la poche de votre siège
une fiche d’information concernant les
procédures de sécurité. Veuillez lire cette
fiche et écouter attentivement toutes les
annonces et instructions de l’équipage en
matière de sécurité.
Alcool
Les passagers ne sont pas autorisés à
consommer l’alcool qu’ils ont emporté ou
acheté à bord. De l’alcool peut être servi
dans l’avion, mais notre équipage refusera de
servir tout passager qu’il soupçonne d’avoir
déjà trop bu.
*Pour la liste complète des appareils dont l’utilisation
à bord est interdite, veuillez consulter la fiche de
sécurité rangée dans la poche du siège devant vous.
Voor uw veiligheid
en comfort
We verwelkomen u graag aan boord van
deze vlucht en danken u om te vliegen
met Brussels Airlines. Lees aandachtig
onderstaande informatie over roken en
veiligheid aan boord. Als u vragen heeft,
kunt u die stellen aan het
cabinepersoneel.
Elektronische apparaten
U mag aan boord geen (communicatie)
apparaten gebruiken die radiogolven uitzenden,
zoals draagbare telefoons, radio’s, GPSapparaten,
spelletjes of speelgoed met een
afstandsbediening*. Zorg ervoor dat uw
telefoon is uitgeschakeld voor en tijdens de
vlucht. Elektronische toestellen zoals personal
computers en spelletjes mag u tijdens de
vlucht gebruiken, maar moet u uitschakelen
bij het opstijgen en landen.
Roken
In overeenstemming met de Belgische
wetgeving is roken verboden op alle vluchten
van Brussels Airlines. Wij wijzen u erop dat de
toiletten aan boord zijn uitgerust met
rookdetectoren. Een inbreuk op het rookverbod
kan bestraft worden. Tevens wijzen wij u erop
dat het gebruik van elektronische sigaretten
verboden is aan boord van al onze vluchten.
Veiligheidsprocedures
U vindt een informatieblad over
de veiligheidsprocedures in het opbergzakje
voor u. Lees het zorgvuldig en luister
aandachtig naar alle veiligheidsmededelingen
en instructies van het cabinepersoneel.
Alcohol
Passagiers mogen geen alcohol gebruiken die
ze hebben meegebracht of aan boord hebben
gekocht. Alcohol kan aan boord worden
geserveerd, maar ons cabinepersoneel zal geen
alcohol schenken aan passagiers die volgens
hen al voldoende hebben gedronken.
*In het opbergzakje voor u vindt u uw
veiligheidskaart met daarop de volledige lijst van
apparaten met gebruiksbeperkingen.
Useful telephone numbers in Europe
112 (emergency services requiring an ambulance, fire brigade or police); Child Focus 116 000 (missing children hotline)
march 2013 97

98
comfort
Your personal
wellbeing on board
Nowadays, for many passengers, fl ying
regularly is part of life. However, the body is
sensitive to change and fl ying still isn’t part
of a normal daily rhythm. Brussels Airlines
cares about your comfort, so here are a
couple of hints on how to keep your body
happy and healthy in the air.
Before
■ Drink plenty of water and avoid excessive intake of
alcohol, coffee and tea
■ Take time to have a stroll around the terminal after
check-in
■ A light snack is fine, but avoid heavy meals
before flying
■ Dress in loose, comfortable clothing
■ Apply moisturiser to keep your skin feeling fresh
During
■ Drink plenty of water and avoid excessive intake of
alcohol, coffee and tea
■ Exercise helps you avoid cramps and is good for
circulation, even on short flights (see below)
■ Don’t eat too much
Exercises
Stretch and flex your leg muscles, as well as your
arms, shoulders and neck, from time to time. This
will improve your general level of comfort and
stimulate your circulation. Stretch and rotate
your ankles and legs while sitting in your seat.
MARCH 2013
Votre bien-être
à bord
De nos jours, il est de plus en plus courant de
prendre l’avion régulièrement. Cependant, le
corps est sensible aux changements, et voler
implique toujours une modifi cation du rythme
normal. Pour Brussels Airlines, la question
de votre confort est une priorité. Voici donc
quelques conseils pour garder un corps léger et
équilibré jusque dans les airs.
Avant
■ Buvez beaucoup d’eau, évitez une consommation
excessive d’alcool, de café et de thé
■ Prenez le temps de vous balader un peu dans
l’aérogare après l’enregistrement
■ N’hésitez pas à prendre un en-cas léger, mais évitez
les repas trop lourds avant d’embarquer
■ Portez des vêtements amples et confortables
■ Appliquez une crème hydratante pour garder une
peau fraîche
Pendant
■ Buvez beaucoup d’eau, évitez une consommation
excessive d’alcool, de café et de thé
■ Faire de l’exercice permet d’éviter les crampes et est
excellent pour la circulation. Essayez les exercices
décrits ci-dessous
■ Ne mangez pas trop
Exercises
Etirez et fléchissez de temps à autre les muscles
de vos jambes, vos bras, vos épaules et votre
nuque. Cela améliorera votre confort général tout
en stimulant votre circulation. Etirez et dessinez de
petits cercles avec vos chevilles et vos jambes
lorsque vous êtes assis.
Uw persoonlijk
comfort aan board
Vandaag maakt vliegen voor heel wat passagiers
deel uit van het dagelijkse leven. Ons lichaam is
echter gevoelig voor verandering en vliegen kan
ons dagritme danig in de war brengen. Uw welzijn
ligt Brussels Airlines nauw aan het hart. Daarom
geven we u enkele tips om ook in de lucht uw
lichaam fi t en gezond te houden.
Vooraf
■ Drink veel water en vermijd overmatig gebruik van
alcohol, koffie en thee
■ Neem de tijd om na het inchecken even door de
terminal te wandelen
■ Een lichte snack mag, maar eet niet te zwaar vóór u
het vliegtuig neemt
■ Draag losse, comfortabele kleding
■ Gebruik een vochtinbrengende crème zodat
uw huid fris aanvoelt
Tijdens
■ Drink veel water en vermijd overmatig gebruik van
alcohol, koffie en thee
■ Oefeningen voorkomen krampen en zijn goed voor de
bloedsomloop. Probeer onderstaande oefeningen
■ Eet niet te veel
Oefeningen
Strek en buig nu en dan uw benen, armen,
schouders en nek. U zult er zich beter door
voelen en het stimuleert de bloedsomloop.
Strek en draai uw enkels en benen terwijl u in
uw stoel zit.
Stretch and rotate your ankles and legs while seated . Flex and stretch your calf muscles , as well as your arms , shoulders and neck periodically.
This will improve your general level of comfort and stimulate your circulation.
ILLUSTRATIONS: JULIE JOHNSON

in the air
Brussels Airlines aircraft are a regular sight taking off and landing at Brussels Airport as well as at the 70 destinations we
serve across Europe, Africa and the United States. Check our fl eet line-up to fi nd out more about the aircraft you’re fl ying on
Airbus A330-200
long haul flights
Number 2
Seats 268
Wingspan 60.30 m
AVRO RJ100
short haul flights
Number 12
Seats 97
Wingspan 26.30 m
brusselsairlines.com
Length 58.40 m
Height 17.80 m
Cruising speed 870 km/h
Length 31.00 m
Height 8.50 m
Cruising speed 755 km/h
Bombardier DH8-Q400
short haul flights
Number 5
Seats 76-78
Wingspan 28.42 m
Length 32.84 m
Height 8.34 m
Max speed 667 km/h
Airbus A330-300
long haul flights
Number 5
Seats 284
Wingspan 60.30 m
Airbus A319
short haul flights
Number 14
Seats 141
Wingspan 34.09 m
Airbus A320
short haul flights
Number 5
Seats 168
Wingspan 34.10 m
Length 63.66 m
Height 16.91 m
Cruising speed 870 km/h
Length 33.84 m
Height 11.76 m
Cruising speed 850 km/h
Length 37.57 m
Height 11 m
Cruising speed 850 km/h
march 2013 99

100
PROMO 1
loyalty programme
Destination Washington!
Celebrate Brussels Airlines’ new direct connection between Brussels and Washington and earn double award miles. Register until 31
Become a Miles & More member now and start
earning miles immediately with this flight!
Sign up online at miles-and-more.be or ask our cabin crew for an application form
march 2013
August 2013, and travel from 18 June to 31 August 2013. Sign up at miles-and-more.be
Cap sur Washington !
Célébrez le lancement de la nouvelle liaison directe de Brussels Airlines entre Bruxelles et Washington et cumulez le double de Miles de
prime. Inscrivez-vous jusqu’au 31 août 2013, et voyagez du 18 juin au 31 août 2013. Enregistrez-vous sur miles-and-more.be
Richting Washington!
Vier de lancering van de nieuwe directe vliegroute van Brussels Airlines tussen Brussel en Washington en ontvang dubbele awardmijlen.
Registreer u tot en met 31 augustus 2013, en reis van 18 juni tot 31 augustus 2013. Schrijf nu in via miles-and-more.be
Scan this code with your smartphone to visit miles-and-more.be
Visitez miles-and-more.be en scannant ce code avec votre smartphone
Scan deze code met uw smartphone om miles-and-more.be te bezoeken

PROMO 2
Mileage bargains on our Scandinavian
destinations
Book your Brussels Airlines flight award to/from Copenhagen, Gothenburg,
Stockholm or Oslo until 30.05.2013 for only 12,000 miles in Economy Class
and 24,000 miles in Business Class, and fly between 01.04.2013 and
31.05.2013. Visit miles-and-more.be/spendmiles
Bonnes affaires sur nos destinations
en Scandinavie
Réservez votre billet Prime avec Brussels Airlines vers / de Oslo, Göteborg,
Stockholm et Copenhague jusqu’au 30.05.2013 pour seulement 12 000 Miles
en Economy Class et 24 000 Miles en Business Class, et voyagez entre le
01.04.2013 et le 31.05.2013. Visitez miles-and-more.be/echangerdesmiles
Mijlenaanbiedingen op onze
Scandinavische bestemmingen
Boek uw Brussels Airlines awardticket naar /van Oslo, Göteborg, Stockholm
en Kopenhagen tot 30.05.2013 voor slechts 12.000 mijlen in Economy Class
en 24.000 mijlen in Business Class, en vlieg tussen 01.04.2013 en 31.05.2013.
Bezoek miles-and-more.be/gebruikmijlen
Connect more smoothly
The Star Alliance network ensures you a convenient,
smooth and effi cient worldwide travel experience
■ The Star Alliance network is a group of 27 airlines
working together to operate more than 21,000 daily
departures to 1,356 destinations in 193 countries, with
over 990 airport lounges
■ Flight connections between member airlines are
smoother and faster thanks to coordinated arrivals and
departures, as well as closer airport facilities
■ Earn frequent flyer mileage on any Star Alliance
scheduled flight, making it easier to reach, maintain
and build your status. staralliance.com
march 2013
101

102
network
over 60
premium
European
destinations
Perfect for
one-day,
weekend and
leisure trips
MADEIRA
Funchal
Portland
Vancouver
Seattle
Porto
Lisbon
Faro
Manchester
Birmingham
Calgary
Denver
San Francisco
Las Vegas
Los Angeles
Phoenix
San Diego
Austin 2 Brussels Airlines
march 2013
Bristol
Bilbao
Madrid
Malaga
Edinburgh
Newcastle
London
Heathrow
Winnipeg
Minneapolis
UNITED
STATES
Strasbourg
Paris
Basel
Geneva
Munich
Zurich
Vienna
Ljubljana
Budapest
Lyon
Milan
Venice
Turin
Bologna
Zagreb
Toulouse
Marseille
Nice Florence
Barcelona
Dallas
Houston
destinations in US
Daily direct fl ight to New York JFK
Direct fl ight to Washington as from 18 June
connections to nearly
30
Hannover
BRUSSELS
Frankfurt
Chicago
CANADA
Atlanta
Tampa
Oslo
Philadelphia
CUBA
JAMAICA
Hamburg
Rome
Palermo
Québec City
Ottawa
Moncton
Toronto
Montreal
Boston
Halifax
Washington
Orlando
Gothenburg
Copenhagen
Malta
Fort Lauderdale
HAITI
Stockholm
Poznan
Berlin
Wroclaw
Prague
Naples
New York
BAHAMAS
Gdansk
Lamezia Terme
Catania
DOMINICAN REP.
San Juan
SAINT KITTS
AND NEVIS
US destinations with Direct
flights to Chicago, Washington
and New York in codeshare with Star Alliance partners
9 destinations in Canada
Calgary, Halifax, Moncton, Montreal, Ottawa, Québec City, Toronto,
Vancouver & Winnipeg in codeshare with Air Canada
Bari
Warsaw
Krakow
Vilnius
Athens
Helsinki
Tallinn
Riga
Bucharest
Beijing
CHINA
Kiev
Tel Aviv
Moscow
2
destinations
in the
Middle East
Abu Dhabi
in codeshare with
Etihad Airways
Tel Aviv
fl own by Brussels Airlines
and also in codeshare
with Lufthansa
Sweden
Abu
Dhabi
Umea
1
destination
in China
Beijing
in codeshare with
Hainan Airlines

Casablanca
MOROCCO
19 Brussels Airlines Marrakech
destinations
in Africa
Abidjan, Agadir,
Banjul, Bujumbura,
Conakry, Cotonou,
Dakar, Douala,
Agadir
ALGERIA
Entebbe, Freetown,
Kigali, Kinshasa, Lomé,
MAURITANIA
Luanda, Marrakech, SENEGAL
Dakar
Monrovia, Nairobi,
Banjul GAMBIA
Ouagadougou GUINEA
BISSAU GUINEA
& Yaoundé
Conakry
SIERRA
Freetown LEONE
Monrovia 3 Korongo
LIBERIA
Airlines destinations
(operated by Brussels Airlines)
Johannesburg, Lubumbashi & Mbuji-Mayi
11 codeshare destinations in africa
Casablanca (with Royal Air Maroc); Abuja, Accra, Johannesburg,
Khartoum, Lagos, Libreville, Luanda & Port Harcourt
(with Lufthansa); Cairo (with Egyptair); Nairobi (with SWISS)
Mumbai
Delhi
INDIA
Codeshare partners
2 destinations
in India
Delhi & Mumbai
in codeshare with Jet Airways
2 destinations
in Southeast Asia
Bangkok
in codeshare with Thai Airways
TUNISIA
Luanda
LIBYA EGYPT
MALI
NIGER
SUDAN
BURKINA
FASO
CHAD
Khartoum
ERITREA
DJIBOUTI
NIGERIA
IVORY GHANA
Abuja
COAST
Abidjan Lomé Lagos
Port Harcourt
Accra
Douala
CENTRAL
AFRICAN REPUBLIC
ETHIOPIA
Yaoundé
EQUAT. CAMEROON
GUINEA
Libreville CONGO
GABON
DEMOCRATIC
REPUBLIC OF
THE CONGO
RWANDA
UGANDA
KENYA
Entebbe Nairobi
Kigali
Bujumbura
SOMALIA
Kinshasa
BURUNDI
Mbuji-Mayi
TANZANIA
Cotonou
Ouagadougou
SOUTH
SUDAN
Singapore
in codeshare with Lufthansa
TOGO
BENIN
Bangkok
THAILAND
MALAYSIA
SINGAPORE
ANGOLA
NAMIBIA
ZAMBIA
BOTSWANA
SOUTH AFRICA
ZIMBABWE
Johannesburg
Cairo
Lubumbashi
MALAWI
MOZAMBIQUE
Legend
Brussels Airlines fl ights
Brussels Airlines fl ights
(from April 2013)
Korongo Airlines fl ights
Codeshare operated
march 2013 103

LEVEL 2
LEVEL 1
GATES A28-A39
LEVEL 0
LEVEL -2
at the airport
BRUSSELS AIRLINES
LOUNGE
Transport to/from
Brussels Airport
Car rental
The car rental companies are located in the
arrivals hall level 2. To return your car, follow the signage
at Brussels Airport for Front Park 1. Returning your car is
simple and should take no longer than 10 minutes. Avis is
the preferred partner of Brussels Airlines, for preferential
rates, see the Avis link on brusselsairlines.com
Fast
Lane
Discover the new
internet communication
centre in the T zone
BRUSSELS AIRLINES
TRANSFER & SERVICES
GATES A40-A72
GATES T61-T72
Taxis
Taxis are continuously available outside the
arrivals hall, level 2. We advise you to use official taxis
carrying a yellow/blue licence emblem. Wheelchair
users can reserve a taxi with Taxi Hendricks via
tel. +32 (0)2 752 9800 or hendriks.be
A57
BRUSSELS AIRLINES
TRANSFER & SERVICES
OPPOSITE GATE A40
T-ZONE
PLAY AREA
LEVEL 4
LEVEL 3
LEVEL 2
LEVEL 0
LEVEL -1
DEPARTURES
BRUSSELS AIRLINES
SALES & TICKETING
ARRIVALS
BUSES
RAILWAY STATION
TO GATES A/T
Buses
The bus station is located at level 0
and provides bus services to many cities around
Brussels Airport. For more information you can contact:
■ De Lijn: tel. +32 (0)70 220 200 or delijn.be
■ MIVB/STIB: tel. +32 (0)7 023 2000 or stib.be
■ Airport Express: Antwerp–Brussels Airport–
Antwerp: tel. +32 (0)52 334 000 or
airportexpress.be
The Netherlands–Brussels Airport–
The Netherlands: airportxpress.nl
(stops at Amsterdam and Rotterdam)
Trains
The train station is located at
Brussels Airport at level -1.
BRUSSELS AIRLINES
SUNRISE LOUNGE
BUS TRANSFER TO B-GATES
57
TO GATES B
Fast
Lane
BRUSSELS AIRLINES
TRANSFER & SERVICES
BESIDE GATE B16
PLAY AREA
BRUSSELS AIRLINES
CHECK-IN
BRUSSELS AIRLINES
BAGGAGE SERVICES
PREMIUM
GATES B01-B40
GATES B80-B98
BUS TRANSFER TO A/T-GATES
PLAY AREA
DEPARTURES
LEVEL 3
ARRIVALS
LEVEL 2
LEVEL 0
Brussels Airlines Services
Services Restaurants & bars
Restaurants & Shops bars
Shops Tickets & airline services
Tickets & airline
Airline
services
lounges
Airline lounges
Relaxation Zone
Relaxation Zone
wi Wi-Fi is available in all areas of the
wi Wi-Fi is available fi passenger in all areas terminal of theand
the piers
fi passenger terminal and the piers
Check-in rows
Check-in rows
Baggage reclaim area
Baggage reclaim area
Brussels Airport, the home base of Brussels Airlines, is tailored to suit the needs of all passengers whether they
require a full-service product or are low-fare seekers. International surveys and ratings have shown that Brussels
Airport is one of the most welcoming and effi cient in the world
AIRLINES
SERVICES
M
Brussels Airlines
Transfers
All flights from non-Schengen countries arrive at B-Gates
All flights from Schengen countries depart from A-Gates
The Brussels Airport Express takes you up to four times
an hour to the centre of Brussels in 15 minutes. From
there you can connect to the Belgian and international
rail networks. For more information please contact
NMBS/SNCB via tel. +32 (0)2 753 2440 or b-rail.be
Lost, found and
refused objects
■ In the terminal: go to the information desk
in the arrivals hall – level 2 (opening hours
6am-midnight). For more information, tel. 0900-70 000
daily 7am-10pm
■ Left on board: go to the Brussels Airlines desk in
the baggage reclaim area or email lost.properties@
brusselsairlines.com; Lost baggage: go to the Brussels
Airlines desk in the baggage reclaim area
march 2013 105

106
extra time: sport
tom watt on a university challenge, no-boat Water-skiing and football’s power for good
the ticket
There are plenty of ways to spend money
watching elite sport in London all year round.
This month, however, one of the city’s blue
riband events can be watched from the banks
of the Thames for free. On 31 March the
159th Boat Race between the Universities
of Oxford and Cambridge will take place.
First held in 1829, the Boat Race is one of
the oldest sporting events in the world. It’s
the athlete the knowledge
Monrovia is a capital that demonstrates the he energy of
a nation reinventing itself. Ask Monrovians s who best
symbolises Liberia’s re-birth and they’ll answer, nswer, “The King”.
George Weah was raised in Clara Town, one of the city’s
toughest areas. His talent took him to the very top of
European club football where he was voted d European
Player of the Year and World Player of the Year in 1995,
the only African footballer to win those awards. ards.
But Weah never turned his back on Liberia; eria; he
worked with the national football team and d
became involved in politics. Recognition came
late in 2012, when he was appointed head of the
National Reconciliation Commission. Years rs on, there’s
still work for Africa’s greatest-ever player to do.
March 2013
also a contest that captures British culture
– sporting and otherwise – in a way that’s
pretty much unique. These are sportsmen at
the very top of their game: each crew will
include oarsmen who will go on to become
future Olympians.
But the event is also a throw-back to the
old hierarchies and traditions which have
seen Oxbridge graduates monopolise the
country’s corridors of power. And yet
the Boat Race retains a genuine popular
appeal; up to 250,000 cheering spectators
will cram the banks of the Tideway, between
Putney and Mortlake, on the day. Millions
more will watch on TV, and the competition
this year will be as fi erce as ever. It’s hard
to think of a more British way to spend
a Sunday afternoon.
Water’s never far away in Hambu Hamburg, in the River Elbe as well as canals and
lakes, so there’s plenty ple of action to be had by way of rowing
and canoeing. ca If you arrive in Hamburg in
March, March however, you can try something a little
more ambitious: water-skiing at Wasserski Hamburg on the Neulander
Lake. Water-skiing and wake-boarding wake-b here work on the ski-lift
principle: you grab a T-bar that tha pulls you across the water on a rotating
steel cable at speeds of anything anyth up to 60 km/h along the 1km course.
The 2013 season opens on 17 March and, once you’ve found your
way 15 minutes south from the th city centre, you’ll need nothing but a few
euros to take part. Wetsuits and an equipment are included in prices which
rise and fall depending on the water temperature! Fortunately, at the
head of the course sits a fi ne beer b garden, where you can pluck up
courage before taking to the water, wat or recover afterwards.
FLY TO london lo four times daily; monrovia four times
weekly; hamburg hamb
four times daily. brusselsairlines.com
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