january-2011

Viva Santo Niño!
Elsewhere in the Philippines, more
parties await, and they are louder,
rowdier and fl ashier in the Visayas,
down south. The Santo Niño is again,
the object of devotion; the fi estas are
usually associated with a single image
— that of the soot-blackened, lavishly
costumed Ati-ati warrior. The Ati-atihan
tradition is the classic symbol of this
fi esta-crazy country. Aklan is where it all
started, since the time the dark-skinned
Ati tribespeople were converted to
Christianity and Christian settlers were
so elated, they dressed themselves like
their newfound brothers. Celebrated all
over Aklan, the biggest revelry is in the
capital of Kalibo. On January 14, dozens
of Ati-ati “tribes” take to the streets,
alongside Aklanons bearing statues of
the Child Christ. Through ear-splitting
drumbeats, hear the cries of “Hala bira!
Pwera pasma! Viva Santo Niño!” (“Go
gettum! Nobody gets tired! Long live
Santo Niño!”). The townspeople dance
on till Monday’s dawn. But there’s more.
The nearby towns of Ibajay and Altavas
hold their own Ati-atihan. And in Iloilo
City, four hours away, they have the Atistyled,
Dinagyang celebration.
Cebu Pacifi c fl ies to Kalibo from Manila.
www.cebupacifi cair.com
Clockwise from
top: Soot-covered
faces and an image
of the Santo Niño
characterize the
Ati-ati festivals down
south; legions of Ati
“tribes” parade the
streets of downtown
Kalibo; and putting
on “make-up” for
the occasion.
PARTY ISLANDS
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