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Trevor Smith, chocolate<br />
champion, displays his 2008<br />
awards in his Beaulieu<br />
Chocolate Studio in the<br />
picturesque New Forest village<br />
working on a new chilli and lime<br />
truffle,’ says award-winning chocolatier<br />
‘I’m<br />
Trevor Smith enthusiastically. ‘I like<br />
the fact that I can do what I like. If it<br />
doesn’t work, I don’t do it any more. Our<br />
chilli chocolate bars sell rather well.’<br />
Trevor has made quite a name for<br />
himself since he opened the Beaulieu<br />
Chocolate Studio in 2006. Last year he won<br />
several accolades at the Guild of Fine Food’s<br />
Great Taste Awards – recognised as the<br />
Oscars for fine foods – taking two Gold<br />
Awards, one for his sherry truffles and the<br />
second for the dark chocolate bar with mint.<br />
‘I’m delighted with the awards,’ he says,<br />
‘particularly for the dark chocolate mint bar<br />
which I devised soon after opening Beaulieu<br />
Chocolate Studio. It has become one of the<br />
shop’s most popular sellers. We also won an<br />
award in 2006 for Champagne truffles.<br />
We’d just opened the shop and entering was<br />
the first thing we did.’<br />
Though born in Brockenhurst, Trevor<br />
gained his chocolate skills in France, where<br />
he studied patisserie and worked in Paris for<br />
two years. ‘I then bought my own<br />
bakery/patisserie in the Loire valley and<br />
began doing a little bit of chocolate. I learnt<br />
how to temper chocolate and other basic<br />
skills and each year introduced a little more<br />
into the shop. It was an accident, in a way,<br />
but I found I really enjoyed working with<br />
chocolate.’<br />
‘Clever Trevor bought the<br />
machinery with the<br />
invaluable goodwill<br />
thrown in’<br />
Trevor returned to the UK in 2004 with<br />
a vague idea of starting up a patisserie on his<br />
home ground but found the costs<br />
prohibitive, much higher than they had been<br />
in France. Luck was smiling on him, though,<br />
when he successfully applied for the job of<br />
chocolatier at Beaulieu Chocolates,<br />
established in the 1980s and owned by the<br />
Beaulieu Estate. ‘I stood a pretty good<br />
chance,’ he says with a smile. ‘When you<br />
advertise for a chocolatier you don’t get too<br />
many replies, so I was on the short list for a<br />
start.’<br />
Luck was on his side again when the<br />
estate offered the business for sale in 2005<br />
but failed to find a buyer. ‘I said I’d like to<br />
buy the machinery and set up on my own in<br />
new premises,’ recalls Trevor. ‘The estate was<br />
quite supportive, keeping the new building<br />
empty while they decided what to do. They<br />
wanted to encourage food-producing<br />
businesses in Beaulieu so that it’s not just full<br />
of gift shops.’<br />
Clever Trevor bought the machinery with<br />
the invaluable goodwill thrown in and<br />
moved to new, small premises on the other<br />
side of the road, taking with him several staff<br />
from Beaulieu Chocolates. ‘I couldn’t see the<br />
original business ever making money as it<br />
was before,’ he says. ‘A lot of people were<br />
paid for packing, and the chocolate makers<br />
were in the factory a long way back from the<br />
shop and we had no contact with the<br />
customers. We now make the chocolate in an<br />
area that can be viewed by visitors to the<br />
shop, and if a customer comes in I can serve.<br />
We don’t need to pay people just to serve in<br />
the shop, or just to pack, so it’s much easier<br />
to manage and we can make a little bit of<br />
money. I don’t think I’m ever going to be<br />
rich, but I really enjoy my job.’<br />
Trevor says that last Christmas was his<br />
busiest yet, but that of the year’s two major<br />
chocolate events, Easter is his favourite. ‘I<br />
like to make traditional eggs and I don’t<br />
know anybody else who makes iced eggs like<br />
outlook v<br />
ours, which are probably our biggest Easter<br />
seller. We also do more contemporary<br />
things, like ginger eggs, or chilli and mint.<br />
We have lots for children as well, iced eggs<br />
and milk-and-white marbled eggs, and try<br />
to do a bit of everything. We put chocolate<br />
fish and animals inside some of our smaller<br />
eggs for children.’ His best seller, though,<br />
whatever time of year, is a local speciality<br />
product known as New Forest Bark, loved<br />
by tourists and locals alike. ‘It’s dark<br />
chocolate with toasted almonds,’ he<br />
explains. ‘We make it on a large tray and<br />
break it as it comes off. The lines running<br />
through it make it look like bark. We<br />
actually ran out at Christmas.’<br />
He hasn’t yet decided what he will<br />
enter in this year’s Great Taste Awards but<br />
is considering a dark chocolate and<br />
raspberry bar. ‘Awards are always<br />
subjective,’ says Trevor. ‘Sometimes I enter<br />
something that I think is really good and it<br />
doesn’t win anything. But we try to enter<br />
new things. If we win, and can put the<br />
sticker on the product, it does sell more<br />
quickly than others.’<br />
Despite working in his own chocolate<br />
heaven, Trevor admits that he doesn’t give<br />
in to temptation, and eats only about one<br />
chocolate a day. ‘I have to try them, and we<br />
also make all our own ganache centres and<br />
I have to taste them as well. We specialise<br />
in fresh-cream truffles, so we only use fresh<br />
cream, chocolate and sugar. The awardwinning<br />
Champagne and sherry truffles are<br />
both fresh-cream.’<br />
‘… he’s been asked to<br />
make 50 chocolate<br />
policemen’<br />
Trevor’s skills are also in demand for<br />
bespoke commissions. For his sister’s<br />
wedding in August he plans to make<br />
individual chocolate ‘flower-pots’ filled with<br />
mousse, which will be served to guests<br />
instead of wedding cake. And for a July<br />
wedding for one of the boys in blue he’s<br />
been asked to make 50 chocolate policemen<br />
to be placed on the dinner tables as unique<br />
wedding favours.<br />
‘Beaulieu Chocolate had many oldfashioned<br />
metal moulds, which came to me<br />
when I bought the machinery,’ he says.<br />
‘You name it, they had a mould for it.<br />
Among them I found a policeman, a little<br />
over four-inches tall.<br />
‘The thing is,’ he adds wryly, ‘there’s<br />
only one mould, so I’ll have to make the<br />
chocolate policemen one at a time. And the<br />
old-fashioned metal moulds are actually<br />
quite difficult to work with so I’m going to<br />
be pretty busy…’ V<br />
www.beaulieuchocolatestudio.co.uk<br />
11<br />
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