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Trevor Smith, chocolate<br />

champion, displays his 2008<br />

awards in his Beaulieu<br />

Chocolate Studio in the<br />

picturesque New Forest village<br />

working on a new chilli and lime<br />

truffle,’ says award-winning chocolatier<br />

‘I’m<br />

Trevor Smith enthusiastically. ‘I like<br />

the fact that I can do what I like. If it<br />

doesn’t work, I don’t do it any more. Our<br />

chilli chocolate bars sell rather well.’<br />

Trevor has made quite a name for<br />

himself since he opened the Beaulieu<br />

Chocolate Studio in 2006. Last year he won<br />

several accolades at the Guild of Fine Food’s<br />

Great Taste Awards – recognised as the<br />

Oscars for fine foods – taking two Gold<br />

Awards, one for his sherry truffles and the<br />

second for the dark chocolate bar with mint.<br />

‘I’m delighted with the awards,’ he says,<br />

‘particularly for the dark chocolate mint bar<br />

which I devised soon after opening Beaulieu<br />

Chocolate Studio. It has become one of the<br />

shop’s most popular sellers. We also won an<br />

award in 2006 for Champagne truffles.<br />

We’d just opened the shop and entering was<br />

the first thing we did.’<br />

Though born in Brockenhurst, Trevor<br />

gained his chocolate skills in France, where<br />

he studied patisserie and worked in Paris for<br />

two years. ‘I then bought my own<br />

bakery/patisserie in the Loire valley and<br />

began doing a little bit of chocolate. I learnt<br />

how to temper chocolate and other basic<br />

skills and each year introduced a little more<br />

into the shop. It was an accident, in a way,<br />

but I found I really enjoyed working with<br />

chocolate.’<br />

‘Clever Trevor bought the<br />

machinery with the<br />

invaluable goodwill<br />

thrown in’<br />

Trevor returned to the UK in 2004 with<br />

a vague idea of starting up a patisserie on his<br />

home ground but found the costs<br />

prohibitive, much higher than they had been<br />

in France. Luck was smiling on him, though,<br />

when he successfully applied for the job of<br />

chocolatier at Beaulieu Chocolates,<br />

established in the 1980s and owned by the<br />

Beaulieu Estate. ‘I stood a pretty good<br />

chance,’ he says with a smile. ‘When you<br />

advertise for a chocolatier you don’t get too<br />

many replies, so I was on the short list for a<br />

start.’<br />

Luck was on his side again when the<br />

estate offered the business for sale in 2005<br />

but failed to find a buyer. ‘I said I’d like to<br />

buy the machinery and set up on my own in<br />

new premises,’ recalls Trevor. ‘The estate was<br />

quite supportive, keeping the new building<br />

empty while they decided what to do. They<br />

wanted to encourage food-producing<br />

businesses in Beaulieu so that it’s not just full<br />

of gift shops.’<br />

Clever Trevor bought the machinery with<br />

the invaluable goodwill thrown in and<br />

moved to new, small premises on the other<br />

side of the road, taking with him several staff<br />

from Beaulieu Chocolates. ‘I couldn’t see the<br />

original business ever making money as it<br />

was before,’ he says. ‘A lot of people were<br />

paid for packing, and the chocolate makers<br />

were in the factory a long way back from the<br />

shop and we had no contact with the<br />

customers. We now make the chocolate in an<br />

area that can be viewed by visitors to the<br />

shop, and if a customer comes in I can serve.<br />

We don’t need to pay people just to serve in<br />

the shop, or just to pack, so it’s much easier<br />

to manage and we can make a little bit of<br />

money. I don’t think I’m ever going to be<br />

rich, but I really enjoy my job.’<br />

Trevor says that last Christmas was his<br />

busiest yet, but that of the year’s two major<br />

chocolate events, Easter is his favourite. ‘I<br />

like to make traditional eggs and I don’t<br />

know anybody else who makes iced eggs like<br />

outlook v<br />

ours, which are probably our biggest Easter<br />

seller. We also do more contemporary<br />

things, like ginger eggs, or chilli and mint.<br />

We have lots for children as well, iced eggs<br />

and milk-and-white marbled eggs, and try<br />

to do a bit of everything. We put chocolate<br />

fish and animals inside some of our smaller<br />

eggs for children.’ His best seller, though,<br />

whatever time of year, is a local speciality<br />

product known as New Forest Bark, loved<br />

by tourists and locals alike. ‘It’s dark<br />

chocolate with toasted almonds,’ he<br />

explains. ‘We make it on a large tray and<br />

break it as it comes off. The lines running<br />

through it make it look like bark. We<br />

actually ran out at Christmas.’<br />

He hasn’t yet decided what he will<br />

enter in this year’s Great Taste Awards but<br />

is considering a dark chocolate and<br />

raspberry bar. ‘Awards are always<br />

subjective,’ says Trevor. ‘Sometimes I enter<br />

something that I think is really good and it<br />

doesn’t win anything. But we try to enter<br />

new things. If we win, and can put the<br />

sticker on the product, it does sell more<br />

quickly than others.’<br />

Despite working in his own chocolate<br />

heaven, Trevor admits that he doesn’t give<br />

in to temptation, and eats only about one<br />

chocolate a day. ‘I have to try them, and we<br />

also make all our own ganache centres and<br />

I have to taste them as well. We specialise<br />

in fresh-cream truffles, so we only use fresh<br />

cream, chocolate and sugar. The awardwinning<br />

Champagne and sherry truffles are<br />

both fresh-cream.’<br />

‘… he’s been asked to<br />

make 50 chocolate<br />

policemen’<br />

Trevor’s skills are also in demand for<br />

bespoke commissions. For his sister’s<br />

wedding in August he plans to make<br />

individual chocolate ‘flower-pots’ filled with<br />

mousse, which will be served to guests<br />

instead of wedding cake. And for a July<br />

wedding for one of the boys in blue he’s<br />

been asked to make 50 chocolate policemen<br />

to be placed on the dinner tables as unique<br />

wedding favours.<br />

‘Beaulieu Chocolate had many oldfashioned<br />

metal moulds, which came to me<br />

when I bought the machinery,’ he says.<br />

‘You name it, they had a mould for it.<br />

Among them I found a policeman, a little<br />

over four-inches tall.<br />

‘The thing is,’ he adds wryly, ‘there’s<br />

only one mould, so I’ll have to make the<br />

chocolate policemen one at a time. And the<br />

old-fashioned metal moulds are actually<br />

quite difficult to work with so I’m going to<br />

be pretty busy…’ V<br />

www.beaulieuchocolatestudio.co.uk<br />

11<br />

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