M A G A Z •: - Desert Magazine of the Southwest
M A G A Z •: - Desert Magazine of the Southwest
M A G A Z •: - Desert Magazine of the Southwest
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Through <strong>the</strong> Navajo grapevine, word quickly went out over <strong>the</strong> reservation that a sing was<br />
to be held in Canyon de Chelly and some o\ <strong>the</strong> Indians rode long distances to be present.<br />
G.V6.4O<br />
By JOYCE ROCKWOOD MUENCH<br />
Photographs by Josef Muench<br />
/iT was in <strong>the</strong> spring that a snake ran<br />
[ I across <strong>the</strong> path <strong>of</strong> Nesccayazzie, <strong>the</strong><br />
—~S Navajo. That was a bad omen. It<br />
made him restive all <strong>the</strong> next two months.<br />
Then when his wife Sally began to complain<br />
<strong>of</strong> pains in her joints, he decided it<br />
was time to have a sing.<br />
Of course, it would cost many sheep<br />
and some dollars beside, to feed all <strong>the</strong> Indians<br />
who were sure to come, but <strong>the</strong> host<br />
and hostess would have <strong>the</strong> benefit <strong>of</strong><br />
purification and cure, plus <strong>the</strong> satisfaction<br />
<strong>of</strong> entertaining <strong>the</strong> countryside.<br />
Word spread quickly, thanks to <strong>the</strong> efficiency<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> Navajo grapevine. By word<br />
<strong>of</strong> mouth <strong>the</strong> invitation went—far up <strong>the</strong><br />
canyon to <strong>the</strong> family that dwells beneath<br />
<strong>the</strong> ruins at Mummy cave, down to Chinle<br />
and out across <strong>the</strong> Black mesa—yes, <strong>the</strong>y<br />
would all come. No one needed to know<br />
<strong>the</strong> name <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> host—it was necessary only<br />
to know <strong>the</strong> place and <strong>the</strong> time.<br />
The first night's ritual was set for a<br />
MAY, 1 94 1<br />
grassy plot six miles up Canyon de Chelly.<br />
The Indians began to ga<strong>the</strong>r <strong>the</strong> day before.<br />
Some <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> girls who lived in hogans<br />
far from <strong>the</strong> edge <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> canyon spent that<br />
whole day in travel, dressed in <strong>the</strong>ir best<br />
clo<strong>the</strong>s and laughing merrily as <strong>the</strong>y rode<br />
along.<br />
All Indians are fond <strong>of</strong> ceremonials and<br />
<strong>the</strong> Navajo is particularly fond <strong>of</strong> a sing.<br />
Covered wagons rolled along <strong>the</strong> sandy<br />
floor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> canyon, carrying whole families.<br />
Solitary riders or hikers appeared for<br />
an instant silhouetted against <strong>the</strong> sky<br />
along <strong>the</strong> top <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> cliffs that rise precipitously<br />
on both sides <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> canyon—<br />
<strong>the</strong>n disappeared as <strong>the</strong>y followed trails<br />
known best to <strong>the</strong>se natives who live close<br />
to <strong>the</strong> earth. There were automobiles too,<br />
shiny new cars and pickups, and o<strong>the</strong>rs<br />
that creaked and groaned as <strong>the</strong>y bounced<br />
along over <strong>the</strong> ruts that followed <strong>the</strong> winding<br />
course <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> canyon.<br />
Nesccayazzie and Sally were not among<br />
Joyce and Josef Muench make periodic trips into <strong>the</strong><br />
Navajo country in nor<strong>the</strong>rn Arizona to add new pictures<br />
to <strong>the</strong> fine collection which adorns <strong>the</strong>ir photographic<br />
studio at Santa Barbara, California. On <strong>the</strong>ir most recent<br />
visit to <strong>the</strong> Navajo reservation <strong>the</strong>y were present at one<br />
<strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> tribal ceremonials in scenic Canyon de Chelly. It<br />
was an emotional experience never to be forgotten —<br />
and Joyca Muench has written about it for <strong>Desert</strong> <strong>Magazine</strong><br />
readers.<br />
those who journeyed, nor were <strong>the</strong>y busy<br />
preparing things where <strong>the</strong> sing was to be<br />
held. Their hogan was far away and <strong>the</strong><br />
medicine man "Wide Hat" was to spend<br />
<strong>the</strong> three nights <strong>the</strong>re performing rites.<br />
His was a long and ever changing performance,<br />
full <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong> old magic that has<br />
been brought down through generations<br />
from fa<strong>the</strong>r to son to grandson. It is full <strong>of</strong><br />
Indian music and imagery. It is a tribal<br />
ceremony—not for <strong>the</strong> white man to see. It<br />
is only when <strong>the</strong> ritual reaches its later<br />
stages in <strong>the</strong> squaw dance that he is an acceptable<br />
guest—perhaps even a welcome<br />
guest for he <strong>of</strong>ten is impelled to play a<br />
role that is pr<strong>of</strong>itable to <strong>the</strong> Indians.<br />
Night comes swiftly to Canyon de<br />
Chelly. When <strong>the</strong> sun touches <strong>the</strong> tops <strong>of</strong><br />
<strong>the</strong> cliffs with a last fleeting gleam, darkness<br />
already has reached <strong>the</strong> floor <strong>of</strong> <strong>the</strong><br />
canyon. For <strong>the</strong> walls rise almost vertically,<br />
300 to 500 feet <strong>of</strong> sheer red sandstone.<br />
These precipitous walls have <strong>the</strong>ir ad-