PATTER - Porsche Club Chesapeake Region PCA

Tech, continued from page 5
I began by removing the rubber line from the metal line coming from the body (yellow arrow in
picture below). I used flare nut wrenches on all the brake line fittings. Once you loosen one of
these fittings you’ll have brake fluid dripping. I place a pan under the line before starting the
removal process. Also, I had some spare rubber bleeder screw caps handy. Once a fitting was
removed, I put one of these caps on the open end to limit spillage of brake fluid.
Even with the lines removed from the car, I could
not separate the rubber lines from these metal
lines. So, my $140 job became more expensive. I
ended up ordering four new metal lines from
Porsche Annapolis for a total of $70. The part
numbers are two each of 996 355 584 06 and
996 355 581 06.
Once I had these new parts, the rest was a breeze.
At each wheel I installed the new metal fitting into
the caliper, then fitted the stainless-steel line. After
all the new brake lines were installed, I flushed the
brake and clutch lines with the new brake fluid.
Next I tried to remove the rubber line from the
metal line that goes to the caliper (green arrow
in picture to the left). Here’s where I hit my first
problem: I could not get this fitting undone.
Even with the flare nut wrench, I just rounded
off the nut. I ended up removing the metal line
from the caliper, and this enabled me to remove
the rubber line (along with the metal line) from
the car. I had to do this with all four lines. See
one of them in the picture below. The green
arrow indicates the metal brake line that screws
into the caliper.
The last picture shows a new stainless-steel brake
line installed. Can I say the brakes feel any
different? Not really, although maybe there is a
bit of a placebo effect. I’m not sure when I’ll get to
the track again, but maybe I’ll notice a difference
then.
Now I need another project!
18