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personal memories revolutionary states and indian ocean migrations

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spirits, she was accustomed to the process <strong>and</strong> agreed. When I returned <strong>and</strong> began<br />

the tape, she explained:<br />

Many years ago, before I was born but when my father was alive,<br />

there was a very serious drought (mahl) <strong>and</strong> our family (hayyannâ) all<br />

traveled from Bahla, some going to Khaburah, some to Zanzibar,<br />

<strong>and</strong> some to Hamra. There was no one of our family here.<br />

Traveling to Khaburah 150 miles away was likened to traveling to Zanzibar<br />

2200 miles away <strong>and</strong> likened to traveling to Hamra, 30 miles away from Bahla. She<br />

made no categorical distinction of different spatial or political boundaries.<br />

Her father, who had stayed in Bahla, although of a prominent family, was<br />

hardly wealthy.<br />

We lived in “the neighborhood” [meaning one of the main<br />

neighborhoods in Bahla, Hârat al-‘Aqur] <strong>and</strong> my father worked as a<br />

porter. There were no jobs at that time. He had a donkey <strong>and</strong><br />

would ride it, carrying with him water, dirt <strong>and</strong> manure (samâd). He<br />

couldn’t work with heavy things, but he had a donkey. And, when<br />

my father died, they said: it is better if she marries her cousin [the<br />

son of her paternal uncle]. I did not have a brother. So, four<br />

months after my father’s death, he took me.<br />

This must have been in the early 1950s.<br />

We stayed in Bahla at first, farming: alfalfa (qat), indigo (nîl), chick<br />

peas (dengiû), onions (basal), <strong>and</strong> sesame (simsim). Within the year, he<br />

came to me <strong>and</strong> said Zanzibar is nice, let’s go to Zanzibar. Most<br />

people would go to Zanzibar, though, when there was fighting<br />

(ma‘ârik) or drought, but there wasn’t either when we went. They<br />

just told us it was nice (zayna). So, we went to Zanzibar, together<br />

(irbâ‘a), <strong>and</strong> opened a store.<br />

When I asked about the voyage, how they got to Muscat, where they took a<br />

boat, what happened when they arrived in Zanzibar, Ghania seemed less interested.<br />

Ahmad, she said, took care of all that. She didn’t remember where they took the<br />

boat. She was with the women on the ship <strong>and</strong> when they arrived in Zanzibar, they<br />

went to the Association house at first. Instead, Ghania wanted to explain her life in<br />

Zanzibar.<br />

We lived in a village where there were plantations (shamba) outside<br />

of Zanzibar town. When Ahmad would go to the town (al-balad)<br />

[Zanzibar town], I would stay in the store <strong>and</strong> I would buy <strong>and</strong> I<br />

would sell.<br />

Ghania liked to repeat how she ran the store when Ahmad would go to the<br />

town <strong>and</strong>, she would add, Ahmad’s brother Abdullah was there too. He also<br />

opened a store <strong>and</strong> his wife Salma would run his store. In contemporary Oman, it<br />

would have been unlikely that Ghania would run a store: her status as an Arab<br />

woman would have been an obstacle to her partaking in what is sometimes<br />

understood as less than appropriate work. Ghania, nonetheless, took pride in her<br />

work in the store, emphasizing how on the isl<strong>and</strong>, it was the women who took care<br />

of such things. Ghania <strong>and</strong> Ahmad sold, she said, whatever people wanted.<br />

We would sell groceries (samân), sugar, rice (‘aysh). I would make<br />

m<strong>and</strong>âzî [a type of fried bread] <strong>and</strong> sell it. We also had coconuts.<br />

Do you know what we did with the coconuts? We would break the<br />

Vol. 5, Fall 2005, © 2005 The MIT Electronic Journal of Middle East Studies<br />

26

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