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personal memories revolutionary states and indian ocean migrations

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MEMORY, LABOR AND VIOLENCE<br />

Ghania’s account of life in <strong>and</strong> return from Zanzibar is structured around<br />

work <strong>and</strong> the violence of the revolution. Contrasting her life in Zanzibar with what<br />

was possible in Bahla, she emphasizes how she <strong>and</strong> her brother-in-law’s wife would<br />

manage their stores near the farms in Zanzibar. Although many women in her birth<br />

place of Bahla manage little stores outside of the main market today, few Arab<br />

women do. Within the market as well, although some young women have taken<br />

jobs in shops, they are usually not Arab women. The market is, in general,<br />

considered (as in some other places in the Middle East) a place of disrepute <strong>and</strong><br />

inappropriate for women, especially for Arab women. Stores in the rest of the town<br />

selling c<strong>and</strong>y for children, feminine hygiene goods <strong>and</strong> basic cleaning products as<br />

well as some ready-made clothes have been established outside the main market in<br />

Bahla to cater to women who are not supposed to venture to the market. Although<br />

I knew several Arab women who ran such stores, most of the stores were<br />

connected to the houses of <strong>and</strong> managed by those of the “servant” class. Ghania’s<br />

pride in her management of the store did not in this case, however, reflect a<br />

complete rejection of class divisions between servants <strong>and</strong> Arabs in Bahla, but<br />

rather a pride in her responsibilities for the formal affairs of their business<br />

endeavors.<br />

In addition to the management of the store, Ghania enjoyed describing the<br />

details of copra production. Frederick Cooper has noted that in the late nineteen<br />

twenties, Zanzibar’s copra was sun-dried <strong>and</strong> mostly done by a small number of<br />

Indians. And, except for some Arab families on Pemba, Arabs, he notes, generally<br />

did not do their own drying. 18 Ghania’s detailed account of Copra drying – with fire<br />

– suggests that either her techniques <strong>and</strong> participation were exceptions to the<br />

general economy of copra or that by the late 1950s <strong>and</strong> early 1960s, the industry<br />

had changed. It is also possible, of course, that while elite Arabs in Zanzibar did not<br />

participate in copra, manga Arabs in rural areas did. Similarly, it is possible that<br />

colonial officials writing the archival record simply did not know about the activities<br />

of rural manga Arabs.<br />

Although Ghania did not associate copra drying with a particular ethnic<br />

category, whether Arab, African or Indian, as some of the literature on early<br />

twentieth century coconut agriculture does, Ghania was also very careful about her<br />

use of social categories in reference to labor in other contexts. In particular, when<br />

speaking about who worked for them on the farm, Ghania insisted that all of their<br />

“workers,” were Omani <strong>and</strong>, further, that all received payments. She was, in other<br />

words, insisting that they were not slaves, either from East Africa or from Oman.<br />

Indeed, she became somewhat defensive about their “payment” of the workers,<br />

saying “what’s wrong, of course we paid them.” At the same time, however, Ghania<br />

refused to answer her gr<strong>and</strong>son’s questions about whether the workers were<br />

“servants” (akhdâm) in the Omani sense of the term. Her refusal <strong>and</strong> her gr<strong>and</strong>son’s<br />

continued questions not only suggested that, in fact, their workers were servants, but<br />

that her gr<strong>and</strong>son was somewhat confused about the structure of identity. Like their<br />

own identities as “Arabs,” being a servant in Oman is transferred patrilineally <strong>and</strong> is<br />

not necessarily a condition of labor. For Sayf, the distinction was between workers<br />

<strong>and</strong> servants: “work” for Sayf implied monetary compensation while being a<br />

servant did not.<br />

In her account, Ghania distinguishes herself <strong>and</strong> her family from those<br />

“from there,” but it is also quite clear that she <strong>and</strong> her family might have stayed in<br />

Vol. 5, Fall 2005, © 2005 The MIT Electronic Journal of Middle East Studies<br />

30

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