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44<br />

| TASTING KITCHEN | september 2013<br />

How does Krug maintain consistent<br />

quality every year?<br />

We keep a library of beautiful vintages<br />

and blend them together to make the<br />

most stunning liquid, ensuring that when<br />

a particular vintage is disappointing, Krug<br />

lovers will still have the chance to drink<br />

a wonderful Champagne. The blending<br />

is an art – there can be over a hundred<br />

individual wines in a blend and it is<br />

completely driven by taste. The blend will<br />

be changed and altered until it is perfect.<br />

How should Champagne be served to<br />

appreciate it fully?<br />

Champagne is about joy, so its flavor should<br />

not be stifled. I don’t like flute glasses as<br />

they hide the flavor of the wine. And it is<br />

not good to serve Champagne too cold – it<br />

restrains the subtle notes. Riedel designed<br />

us a special glass, which is wider and allows<br />

blending the senses<br />

库克香槟如何保持品质上乘?<br />

我们对于葡萄丰收年份均有详细记载,精<br />

心挑选、混酿制作令人惊艳的好酒,即便<br />

某一特定年份的酒液不尽人意,我们的忠<br />

实客户仍不乏特极香槟可享用。混酿真的<br />

是门艺术,动辄就要混搭上百种酒液,箇<br />

中拿捏完全取决于所要的味道。达到完美<br />

品质前,混酿需要不断修整及微调。<br />

香槟的最佳享用方式是?<br />

香槟为欣悦而生,天性使然。一般细长酒<br />

杯会掩盖香槟风味,对此我个人并不欣赏。<br />

此外香槟不宜过冷,否则细致的味道会被<br />

压抑。 Riedel 特别为我们设计了以创办人<br />

all the aspects of the Champagne to show<br />

themselves. They call it “The Joseph” after<br />

our founder. But you could also serve Krug<br />

in a white wine glass to give it a chance to<br />

reveal its flavors. As the wine warms up<br />

when you drink it, you will notice more and<br />

more aromas and flavors coming to the<br />

fore – it’s a journey, down to the last sip!<br />

It’s really about activating all the senses.<br />

Champagne is a drink that delights all<br />

the senses. When you take a sip of<br />

Champagne the first thing you do is smell<br />

it – this opens your palate and allows you<br />

to fully savor the wine. But there is more<br />

to wine than just those two senses. It<br />

looks beautiful, with the bubbles rising in<br />

the golden liquid. And there is an aural<br />

quality too – the pop of the cork, the<br />

sound as the wine is poured into a glass,<br />

and the sound of the bubbles dancing.<br />

「Joseph」为名的宽颈酒杯,能完整体现香<br />

槟的各种特色。用白酒杯也是一种选择,<br />

可以让我们品牌的香槟散发独有的气味。<br />

入口后香槟渐暖,会逐渐引发内蕴的多种<br />

香气及味道。在最后一口前,味蕾都能徜<br />

徉在各式绝妙的美味中。<br />

喝香槟就是要让人五感舒畅是吧?<br />

香槟能启动全身感官,让人通体舒畅。喝香<br />

槟第一件事就是「闻」,有助打开味觉,品<br />

味好酒。但除了嗅觉及味觉,视觉也是关键<br />

所在,气泡不断从金黄色泽的香槟中冒出,<br />

着实赏心悦目。加上开瓶、倒酒及泡沫喷流<br />

起舞的声音,不斥也是一场听觉飨宴。<br />

tasting notes<br />

You have recently been exploring the<br />

realm of sound with your Champagne –<br />

tell us a little more about that.<br />

Every Champagne sounds different, but I<br />

think Krug has the most beautiful sound<br />

of all. Everyone appreciates the beauty<br />

in the sound of the sea, and as children<br />

we hold seashells to our ears to hear the<br />

roar and whoosh of the waves. I was<br />

inspired to bring that dimension – the<br />

sense of sound – to the experience of<br />

tasting Champagne, so Krug has created<br />

a beautiful conch-like shell, which fits on<br />

top of the Riedel glass. If you put your ear<br />

to the shell, it amplifies the sound of the<br />

bubbles.<br />

When you agitate the liquid, the<br />

sound becomes louder and more intense.<br />

I love to watch people’s faces when they<br />

listen to Champagne for the first time –<br />

they are so beautiful!<br />

Joseph Krug founded the Krug Champagne House in 1843 with a vision: to produce<br />

Champagne of superlative quality and to do it every year, again and again. With<br />

a background in the commercial wine trade, he felt that he owed his customers a wonderful wine regardless of the vagaries of<br />

that year’s harvest. Current Krug CEO Margareth Henriquez spoke with TK about blending vintages and senses. • 早在 1843 年,<br />

Joseph Krug 创立库克香槟酒庄 (Krug Champagne) 时就惦记着一件事 :每年都要制作出品质无可挑剔的香槟,循环往复。因<br />

为出身酒水贸易背景,他总觉得不管每年收成好坏,都应让顾客拥有绝佳的美酒享受。库克香<br />

混酿之最 感官之旅<br />

槟总裁 Margareth Henriquez 近日特别接受 TK 访问,分享混酿酒及品酒感官享受的经验谈。<br />

您最近一直钻研香槟的声音,其中故事能<br />

否和我们分享一下?<br />

每支香槟听起来都不一样,但我敢说库克<br />

声音之美,绝对数一数二。海洋之声,大<br />

家都非常推崇,小时候我们也喜欢把贝壳<br />

放耳边,聆听浪潮的翻覆呼啸。所以我就想,<br />

何不加强听觉的享受,让品尝香槟的体验<br />

更加丰富。库克因此在特制 Riedel 酒杯上<br />

加缀看似贝壳的响螺,造型相当别致。喝<br />

香槟时附耳到响螺边,泡沫声可听得一清<br />

二楚。摇晃酒杯,声音会愈加集中继而更<br />

响亮。我喜欢看大家第一次听到香槟声音<br />

的表情,真是太美好了!<br />

september 2013 | TASTING KITCHEN | 45

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