TK9-SEAFOOD-Nov13-BOOK.pdf

tasting kitchen #9 • sep 2013 

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4 

Hong Kong 

Treasures of the Sea 海中珍宝 

Aberdeen 

Seafood Central 海鲜集中地 

centrAl 

The Heart of the Mandarin 创意之源

8 

| TASTING KITCHEN | september 2013 

starter 

Flowers or food – or both? This lovely flower arrangement, created at The Mandarin 

Oriental’s Krug Room by Chef Uwe Opocensky’s, turns out to be both beautiful and 

delicious. Read more about "Branch" and Chef Uwe starting on page 38. 

鲜花能与美食共存?图中的精美花卉料理出自文华东方酒店库克餐厅主厨 

Uwe Opocensky之手,美轮美奂,味道诱人。如想了解更多请翻至本刊38页详读。 

Discover a New Dimension 

with Küppersbusch 

German Built-in Kitchen Appliances since 1875

10 

treasures of the sea 

September 2013 • I SSue #9 

Tasting Kitchen 

www.tasting-kitchen.com 

7A, 22/F, Kodak House II, 39 Healthy East Street 

Quarry Bay, Hong Kong 

Tel: +852 2642 0008 

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s 

finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. 

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for 

all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer. 

Mark Hammons 

FOunDER & CO-PuBLISHER 

mark@tasting-kitchen.com 

Jenny Man 

GROuP GEnERAL MAnAGER & CO-PuBLISHER 

jman@tasting-kitchen.com 

Jeff Hammons 

EDITOR AT LARGE 

jeff@tasting-kitchen.com 

Joey cheang 

EDITORIAL COORDInATOR 

CHInESE EDITOR 

Li Meng de bakker 

Mamie chen 

Sarah Dallof 

Kristen gallagher 

Annabel Jackson 

Lucy Morgan 

roland Muksch 

Kate nicholson 

inara Sim 

Helene Wong 

COnTRIBuTInG WRITERS 


Jean Alberti 

CHEF AT LARGE 

jean@tasting-kitchen.com 

David Hartung 

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHy 

Alicia beebe 

ART DIRECTOR 

Kennis Yuen 

PRODuCTIOn MAnAGER 

Timothy Tang 

CIRCuLATIOn & 

SuBSCRIPTIOn ExECuTIvE 

rita ng 

ACCOunTAnT 

The three sea urchins on our cover come from the cool waters off the coast of Brittany, France. 

Along with all of the amazing seafood featured on pages 58 to 71 they were generously 

provided by Classic Fine Foods, Asia’s leading importer of gourmet foods, whose products 

confirm the truth of their motto: “We select the best from the world and bring it to you.” 

封面所拍摄的三颗新鲜海胆来自法国西北部地区布列塔尼沿岸的冷水域。与本刊第58至71 

页所提及的其它高级海鲜食材一样,均由Classic Fine Foods所供应。这家全亚洲首屈一指的 

优质食材供应商,所有产品均能突显其宗旨:“我们坚持从全球各地引入最优质的食材。” 

Photograph by David Hartung 

group ADverTiSing 

sales@tasting-kitchen.com 

gerard William Whitty 

ASST. SALES DIRECTOR 

HK: +852 5196 0253 

Macau: +853 6279 2238 

gerard@tasting-kitchen.com 

SubScripTionS 

subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com 

prinTing 

Infinity Printing Company Limited 

3/F, Cheung Lee Industrial Building 

9 Cheung Lee Street, Chai Wan, Hong Kong 

DiSTribuTion 

Blackstone Concepts Communication 

+ 852 3481 0518 

©Tasting Kitchen 2013. 

All rights reserved

12 


contents 

18 Food Champion • 24 Winning Dishes • 28 Sweet Moments • 30 Bounty of the Bay of Naples 

32 Diners, Start Your Engines • 34 Seafood, Stainless Steel Style • 36 The Art of Elegant Living 

38 The Heart of the Mandarin • 44 Blending the Senses • 46 Yin Yang Autumn Delights 

50 Savor the Sea • 54 Singing the Brittany Blues • 58 Treasures of the Sea • 72 Mirror Menu 

18 24 

32 

36 

38 

46 

50 

28 

58 

54 

30 

34 

38 

44 56 

72 

74 

100 

120 

contents 

74 Shooting Stars • 80 Fishy Business • 84 Classic Match • 96 Culinary Diplomacy 

100 Cataplana de Marisco • 104 Seafood Central • 116 Austria’s New Generation of Winemakers 

120 Champagne Savoir-Faire • 126 Paradise Found • 130 A Fine Selection • 134 Wine Player 

138 Where to find t K • 140 r estaurant Listings • 144 d essert 

80 

126 

84 

104 

130 

96 

116 

134

14 

publisher’s note 

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. 

In this issue we present you with an 

autumn seafood smorgasbord: smoked eel, 

stir-fried scallops with ginger, stone-roasted 

John Dory, steamed grouper and doubleboiled 

conch, razor clams, Portuguese 

bacalhau and cataplana, Brittany blue 

lobsters, Peruvian ceviche, pan-roasted arctic 

char, abalone, oysters, crab and more. 

We talk to an etiquette consultant about 

the cultivated way to enjoy caviar, share advice 

on properly pairing Champagne, and take you 

to the top of the Ritz-Carlton for an exclusive 

caviar and Champagne pairing menu. 

In our cover story, you’ll be introduced to some underwater wonders that are 

worth adding to your bucket list, including goose barnacles and scorpion fish, 

Tarbouriech oysters and Brittany sea urchins. After spending some time getting 

to know these rare treasures of the sea, you’ll follow them to Mirror restaurant in 

Wan Chai where they were the stars in a memorably imaginative meal created by 

Chef Jeremy Biasiol. 

If you’ve enjoyed seafood in Hong Kong, there’s a good chance it passed 

through the Aberdeen Wholesale Fish Market on its way from the sea to your 

plate. In this issue’s photo essay by TK Director of Photography, David Hartung, 

we share glimpses of the energy and hard work that define the market in the hours 

before dawn. 

In addition to all the seafood, we take you inside the Mandarin Oriental’s 

newly renovated Krug Room to experience some of Chef Uwe Opocensky’s 

famously innovative dishes, trace the inspiration and vision of one of Hong Kong’s 

wine pioneers, sample a world-class New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, meet a trio of 

Austrian winemakers, and explore the city’s largest cheese room. 

Enjoy! 

MARK HAMMONS 


Shiro, LG1, Two Pacific Place, 

Queensway, Hong Kong 

Tel: 2117 9481 

Contemporary Japanese cuisine, served within a space 

that reflects elegant Zen simplicity. 

Shiro, 1301 Hysan Place, 500 

Hennessy Rd, Causeway Bay 

Tel: 2155 8066 

Opening in 

TaiKoo Place in October 

With our third Shiro restaurant now open in TaiKoo Place and more to follow, 

join the Shiro Sushi Society to enjoy exclusive preview opportunities, 

member privileges and special invitations at all locations. 

Please visit www.aqua.com.hk to join. 

G/F, Lincoln House, TaiKoo Place, 

979 King’s Rd, Island East 

Tel: 2116 4969 

Open now 

in TaiKoo Place

16 

Greetings from Tasting Kitchen. 

My first job in the kitchen was at a 

chef’s note 

restaurant in Alsace, on the German border, 

far from the sea. Twice a week I would arrive 

at the restaurant at midnight with the other 

apprentices and we would wait for a load of 

precious cargo. 

The fresh seafood would arrive by trucks 

in the middle of the night in wooden boxes 

filled with crushed ice. The scallops were still 

live in their shells, full of sand, and I spent 

hours meticulously cleaning them until every 

grain was gone. 

After graduation I landed a job in Paris at a restaurant called L’Alsace aux 

Halles, which specialized in seafood. There I learned how to cook, smoke, steam, 

grill, and sautée all types of seafood, but my most valuable lesson was taught by 

l’ecaillers (the scalers). 

They taught me how to prepare raw seafood – oysters, clams, winkles, shrimp, 

gambas, and spider crabs – and how to create colorful seafood sculptures on a bed 

of seaweed and ice. 

The restaurant was near the red light district in Paris, and at around four in the 

morning the girls would come to eat our frog legs soufflé and drink along with the 

butchers from nearby shops who were starting their days early with cognac and coffee. 

Later, when I was cooking in the West Indies, I liked to watch the kids dive 

into the sea and come out with enormous conches. They’d extract the flesh and eat 

it raw. I tried it once and I could not even sink my teeth into the rubbery texture – 

cooked, though, it became a great delicacy. 

The best seafood I ever had was at a small roadside restaurant in Yunnan, 

China. An older tattooed chef slowly cooked a fresh fish stuffed with tea leaves and 

red pimento over an open fire and it was extraordinary. 

Sometimes culinary revelations find you when you’re least expecting them. 

JEAN ALBERTI 

| TASTING KITCHEN | september 2013

presented by g.h. mumm 

food champion 

18 

Terry Ho Kai-tung is Hong Kong’s top oyster 

shucker. He prevailed over a field of twentyfive 

talented chefs at the 2013 Hong Kong 

Oyster Shucking Championship, organized by 

Café Deco on the Peak and Worldwide Seafood. 

The chefs were tested on speed, dexterity and 

presentation – oysters needed to be opened 

cleanly, detached from the shell and presented 

artfully on ice. For his efforts, Chef Ho, who 

works at Café Express at the Hotel Panorama, 

won a trip to the Galway International Oyster 

and Seafood Festival in Ireland. 

何启东(Terry)参加由顶峰景餐厅(Café Deco on 

the Peak)及环球海产(Worldwide Seafood)合办 

的2013年香港开蚝挑战赛,从25位具有实力的竞 

争者中脱颖而出,成为全港第一开蚝高手。开 

蚝速度、敏捷度及摆盘都是评分标准-参赛的 

厨师开蚝切忌拖泥带水、生蚝需完全脱壳及摆 

于冰上的美观等都是重点所在。 Terry来自隆堡 

丽景酒店「咖啡亭(Café Express)」,凭借一身 

绝活为自己赢得前往爱尔兰「Galway国际生蚝 

海鲜节」一游的门票。 


tasting news 

红白交映肉中骄子 

red, white 

and moo 

Up until the seventeenth century in England, 

cattle were bred to be work animals, pulling 

heavy carts and working the land. After this 

point farmers began breeding cattle for their 

meat – strong steers with flesh sweetened by 

the green pastures of the English countryside. 

Grass is the most natural feed for ruminants. 

It is pure and easy to digest. As they 

graze, cattle walk miles, becoming fit and lean. 

Royal Standard English beef has good mouth 

feel and a pure, clear taste. This natural, delicious 

and traditional beef from England’s green and 

pleasant land is now available in Hong Kong. 

20 

www.englishbeef.hk 

China Rouge 紅伶 

Galaxy Hotel, Macau Avenida De Cotai, Taipa, Macau 

澳門路氹城大馬路澳門銀河酒店 +853 2888 0888 


十七世纪的英国,牛只尚为拉曳拖车的驼兽,用于农忙耕地。而后农家才开始畜 

养肉牛,以英国乡间翠绿青草为主食的食用牛肉质鲜甜,品质极佳。 

对牛只这种反刍动物而言,青草正是最天然的饲料,纯净无染又容易消化。 

放牧的牛只每日行走数里,也让肉质变得结实精瘦。「皇家品质英国牛肉」口感好, 

味道纯净、不带任何杂质。来自英国大草原、纯天然传统英国牛肉美味满分,现 

在在香港就吃得到。 

红焰冰娘子 

ice bride on fire 

“Autumn is traditionally wild game, hairy crab and truffle season, and these 

ingredients match well with traditional yet adventurous cocktails,” say China 

Rouge bartender Jerry Li and bar manager Roy Kong. Featuring flaming 

rosemary, traditional Shaoxing hua diao wine, fresh lemon juice, Worcestershire 

sauce and tomato juice, Ice Bride on Fire is among three special drinks recently 

added to the menu at the exclusive Macau nightspot. For inspiration, Li and 

Kong drew on ancient Chinese wedding customs and literary references to the 

decadent wine parties of dynastic China. “The classic ingredients and familiar 

flavors recall memories of good times, but adding hua diao wine makes for a 

totally new sensory experience.” 

澳门高级私人会所「红伶 (China Rouge)」名噪一时,调酒师 Jerry Li 及酒吧经理 

Roy Kong 异口同声表示 :「照传统,秋天正是品尝野味、毛蟹及松露的节候,搭 

配经典却带点颠覆性的调酒正当时。」以传统绍兴花雕酒为基酒、加入柠檬汁、 

伍斯特郡黑醋、蕃茄汁,再插入迷迭香点火就是「红伶」最近推出的三大秋季调 

酒之一「红焰冰娘子」。这款调酒以古代中国婚礼习俗为灵感、封建时期饮酒作 

乐的宴会作为参考所创作。 Jerry 及 Roy 解释 :「经典的调酒成分及熟悉的味道让 

人联想到昔日的美好时光,花雕酒则带来全新的感官体验。」 

CoURTESy oF EnGLISH BEEF, CHInA RoUGE 

CoURTESy oF LA MAISon DU CHoCoLAT, A TASTE oF LE SALon DE THé 

奢华中秋献礼 

lunar luxury 

The Mid-Autumn Festival is a time for sharing and giving thanks. While millions 

are preparing to dig into all manner of traditional mooncakes, the festival’s famous 

culinary delight, those looking for an original alternative this year can opt for La 

Maison du Chocolat’s exotic Moonchocolates. Five different selections harbor 

flavors like ginger, blueberry and praline. Mid-Autumn revelers will also 

appreciate the lucky cloud and moon designs printed on both chocolates 

and their packaging. 

又来到分享欢乐与表达感谢的中秋佳节,许多人 

正在挑选琳琅满目的传统月饼。但今年,您可 

以拥有不一样的选择。法国进口 La Maison du 

Chocolat 中秋朱古力礼盒发挥独特创意,精选鲜 

姜、蓝莓、果仁等五种口味,并于朱古力本身 

及包装上均绘有象征喜庆吉祥的云中邀月图案, 

是中秋佳节最亮眼、体面的精致礼品。 

觅甜有方 

a taste of 

le salon de thé 

no need for diners to pack their passports: a taste of 

France can now be found at the new location of Le Salon 

de Thé de Joël Robuchon. The chic tea salon, which 

opened in the ifc mall this summer, seats sixty and offers 

an afternoon tea service in addition to decadent pastries 

and macarons almost too beautiful to eat. Think creamy 

mango cheesecake, fresh mixed fruit tart and chocolate 

cappuccino cake dusted with cocoa powder. The behindthe-scenes 

secret is simple: top-of-the-line fresh 

ingredients that elevate natural flavors. Délicieux! 

品尝法式美味,何须远赴法国? Le Salon de Thé de Joël 

Robuchon 于香港国际金融中心商场盛大开幕,风格时尚, 

内附 60 个座位,供应下午茶、各式诱人甜点及造型精巧、 

令人爱不释手的马卡龙,法式美味,一次满足。还有绵 

密的芒果起司蛋糕、新鲜综合水果塔及洒缀可可粉的巧 

克力卡布奇诺蛋糕,每样都是让人食指大动的顶级甜点。 

美味秘诀在于 :运用品质最好的新鲜食材,突显原味的 

鲜美。好吃没话说! 

+852 2234 7422, www.robuchon.hk 

La Maison du Chocolat 

2801 4880, Shop 2006 

2/F, IFC Mall, 1 Harbour View, 

Central 中環港景街1號國際金 

融中心商場2樓2006號舖 

september 2013 | TASTING KITCHEN | 21

tasting news 

珠宝糕点赏心悦目 

美味无穷 

rich jewels, 

rich tastes 

What do jeWelers, goldsmiths and pastry 

chefs have in common? 

“Both pastry and jewelry are seen 

as refined art pieces,” says Richard Long, 

Executive Pastry Chef at The Ritz-Carlton, 

Hong Kong. “We are all working towards 

stylistic and aesthetic perfection.” 

A new afternoon tea collaboration 

between The Lounge & Bar at The Ritz- 

Carlton, Hong Kong and iconic Italian 

jewelry brand Damiani showcases these 

shared ideals. During the month of 

September, tea takers will be treated 

to edible chocolate pendants modeled 

on pieces from Damiani’s Belle Epoque 

collection. Other tempting pastries, like 

the five-textured limoni tea cake “shot” 

and the golden Sicilian pistachio and 

raspberry croissant, tempt with saturated 

jewel tones. 

Figuratively inspired by Damiani’s 

jewelry, the meticulously crafted, gemlike 

pastries both display good taste and 

deliver it, literally. Chef Long counts a 

creation in the ring category as one of his 

favorite selections. The “illy” tarte echoes 

the woven bands of Damiani’s Gomitolo 

collection with cascading waves of 

chocolate cream. “It has a great balance 

of taste and texture,” says Long. 

22 


珠宝工匠、金匠及糕点师傅三者有何相似 

之处?香港丽思卡尔顿酒店行政糕点总厨 

骆育文一语道出 :「糕点和珠宝都是精致的 

艺术品,追求卓绝风格及雕琢极致美感的 

程度并无二致。」 

酒店大堂酒廊 (The Lounge & Bar) 最 

新推出的下午茶套餐,便是与意大利首屈 

一指的著名珠宝品牌「Damiani」共同打造 

的梦幻逸品。整个九月,宾客品茶时都能 

同时享用仿造「Damiani」美好年代 (Belle 

Epoque) 系列项链坠饰制作的巧克力点心, 

The Damiani jewelry tea set is available September 1-30, 3 PM - 6 PM. 

Damiani 限量下午茶将于2013年9月1日至30日下午3时至6时供应 

HKD388 for one, HKD618 for two. 

+852 2263 2270, restaurantreservation.hk@ritzcarlton.com 

或是富五层质感的 limoni 茶香蛋糕、金黄 

西西里开心果及野莓牛角包等多种甜点, 

散发珠宝般的璀璨光芒,撩动宾客的味蕾 

与心弦。 

以「Damiani」顶级珠宝为灵感打造的 

糕点精巧可人、维妙维肖,味道也无从挑剔。 

其中以大量巧克力奶油交叠制作的「illy」 

塔将「Damiani」Gomitolo 系列戒指交错 

的纹理设计表现得淋漓尽致,更是骆育文 

的得意之作。他自豪表示 :「味道和口感搭 

配得天衣无缝。」 

COuRTESy OF DIAMAnI 

COuRTESy OF THE MIRA HOnG KOnG, RnAISSAnCE HARBOuR VIEW HOTEL 

秋唤味蕾醒 

autumn 

awakening 

The Mira Hong Kong has joined forces with venerable 

Australian winemaker Penfolds to bring a seasonal 

set dinner menu to their wine destination restaurant, 

WHISK. Chef de Cuisine Bjoern Alexander has created 

a fresh and original menu sourcing the finest produce 

from around the world. Shellfish are paired with a 

Penfolds Riesling from the Barossa Valley. Smoked 

eel and lemongrass meet their perfect match with a 

Penfolds Pinot noir. And with Chef Bjoern’s succulent 

Scottish beef, don’t miss the much-loved Penfolds 

2010 Magill Estate Shiraz, a small batch drop made 

from hand-picked grapes from the winery’s original, 

heritage-listed Magill vineyard. 

The Mira Hong Kong 与澳洲知名酿酒商「Penfolds」 

合作,打造旗下品酒殿堂「Whisk」欧陆餐厅全新 

的季节套餐。在主厨Bjoern Alexander 严格把关 

下,餐厅也搜罗了来自世界各地的顶级食材。贝类 

搭配 Barossa 河谷酿制的 Penfolds Riesling 白酒享 

用 ,Penfolds 黑皮诺红酒则是烟熏鳗鱼及柠檬草的 

最佳拍档。至于主厨特制、软嫩多汁的苏格兰牛肉料 

理,享用时一定要试试 Penfolds 2010 年的 Magill 酒 

庄 Shiraz 葡萄酒,来自 Penfolds 最早的 Magill 葡萄园, 

仍保留酿酒的优良传统,严选人工摘取的限量葡萄所 

酿,备受好评。 

Call 2315 5999 or book online at www.themirahotel.com. 

Available until October 31, 2013. 

查询可致电2315 5999或于www.themirahotel.com 线上预 

约, 供应至2013年10月31日。 

餐酒聪明搭配 

wine and dine wisely 

“Wine is like a friend of mine,” says leading sommelier Andy She, who 

since April 2013 has been making wine selection simple for restaurant 

guests at the Renaissance Harbour View Hotel in Hong Kong. Burgundy 

chardonnays and pinot noirs from new Zealand’s Central Otago wine 

region currently rank among his favorites. Mr. She says wine and wine 

pairing never fail to fascinate: “Every time I pair wines with various foods 

or dishes, I have a new experience.” 

自 2013 年 4 月加入香港万丽海景酒店 

(Renaissance Harbour View Hotel) 以 

来,担任首席侍酒师的 Andy She 在餐 

厅里协助客人挑选餐酒,他还以「酒如 

密友」来形容自己与酒密不可分的关 

系。他目前的最爱则是纽西兰中奥塔哥 

(Central Otago) 酿酒区所产的伯艮第夏 

多内及黑皮诺葡萄酒。葡萄酒与餐酒搭 

配魅力无穷,让他不时萌发崭新灵感 : 

「每逢食物料理遇上葡萄酒,都让我有 

新的体验。」 

Renaissance Harbour View Hotel 

香港万丽海景酒店 

www.renaissanceharbourviewhk.com

tasting news 

24 

季节料理抢鲜争艳 

winning 

dishes 

新季悄临,永利澳门酒店 

(Wynn Macau) 招牌餐厅理各 

自推出全新菜单,搜罗世界 

各地的新鲜时节食材,打造 

崭新美馔,满足饕客味蕾。 


A chAnge of seAson brings with it new tastes 

and flavors. The chefs at Wynn Macau have 

recently launched new menus featuring fresh and 

seasonal ingredients from around the world. 

Stir-Fried Scallops 

with Marinated Ginger 

At Golden Flower, Executive Chef Liu 

Guo Zhu ensures that, in authentic Tan-style, 

the true flavors of his ingredients are honored 

and kept in perfect balance. This innovative dish, a 

combination of seafood and young ginger, brings 

together ingredients from both Southern and 

Northern China. The scallops are fresh and tender, 

the ginger is pungent and crisp – the spicy element 

enhances the sweetness of the scallops. Crunchy 

Shandong leeks add another textural dimension. 

泡姜滑炒带子 

「京花轩」行政总厨刘国柱主掌的「谭家菜」的风格, 

一向主张彰显食材原味,拿捏精准完美。这道创意料理 

结合海鲜及嫩姜,食材正好来自中国南北两方。带子新鲜 

软嫩,辅以呛鼻爽脆的嫩姜,一丝劲辣正好激发带子的鲜 

甜。饶富口感的山东韭葱则让这道菜吃来层次更加丰富。 

Stone-Roasted John Dory 

with Dungeness Crab 

Risotto and Leek Emulsion 

Another winning combination of 

premium ingredients and amazing textures 

by Il Teatro Chef De Cuisine Anthony Alaimo. 

Flown in directly from the pristine waters of 

southern New Zealand, the John Dory is stone-roasted, 

avoiding the harshness of a grill and giving the fish a 

subtler flavor. The crab risotto provides rich texture. 

石烧尊多利鱼伴珍宝蟹意大利饭及大蒜浓汁 

「帝雅廷意大利餐厅」高级主厨Anthony Alaimo 的拿手料理 

可说是顶级食材与绝佳口感的完美结合。为避免烤架破坏肉 

质,纽西兰南部纯净海域空运而来的尊多利鱼以石头炙烧, 

让细致美味更上一层楼。螃蟹炖饭则增添丰富的口感,与鲜 

嫩鱼肉搭配得恰到好处。尊多利鱼与黄金蟹均是以永续渔 

业捕捞方式取得,也正是餐厅研发新菜色所遵循的理念。 


Kaiseki Appetizer 

The key to great kaiseki is harmony 

– using just the right flavors so 

that every dish succeeds on its 

own and also plays it role in the 

ensemble. An artist at heart, Mizumi 

Chef de Cuisine Hiroshi Kagata 

designs each dish so that tastes 

are carefully balanced and no dish 

overwhelms another. For absolute 

freshness, the seasons determine 

which ingredients are selected. 

Chef Kagata’s kaiseki appetizer can 

include grilled sweet fish, seared 

Omi beef, marinated deep fried 

rock fish, boiled abalone, spicy 

cod roe and cucumber, sweet 

corn, lily root and boiled shrimp. 

「泓」日本料理:怀石料理前菜 

怀石料理的精髓就是「完美调和」, 

味道调试得恰到好处,让每道菜发 

光发亮,各司其职却又能为整体加 

分。「泓」日本料理高级主厨加贺 

田浩精心雕琢每道菜肴,让味道彼 

此调和,却不喧宾夺主,锱铢必较 

的艺术家性格展露无遗。因为追求 

绝对新鲜,通常会以季节来决定烹 

煮的时令食材。主厨的怀石料理前 

菜包括烧烤香鱼、炙烧近江牛、酥 

炸调味石斑鱼、汆烫鲍鱼、辣味 

鳕鱼子及小黄瓜、甜玉米、白藕及 

汆烫鲜虾,无一不是一时之选。 

26 


Seafood Seafood Panzanella Panzanella Salad Salad 

Il Teatro Il Teatro Chef Chef de Cuisine de Cuisine Anthony Anthony 

Alaimo Alaimo puts puts a fresh a fresh spin spin on a on a 

classic classic Italian Italian salad. salad. The original The original 

panzanella panzanella salad salad has been has been 

popular popular for centuries for centuries for its for simple its simple 

combination of flavors of flavors and textures. and textures. 

Heirloom Heirloom tomatoes, tomatoes, cucumber, cucumber, 

onions, onions, avocado avocado and homemade and homemade 

citrus citrus dressing dressing make make a dynamic a dynamic 

blend blend of fresh of fresh flavors. flavors. Croutons Croutons 

add crunch. add crunch. Scallops, Scallops, prawns prawns and and 

lobster lobster add depth add depth of flavor. of flavor. 

海鲜意大利面包牛油果沙律伴柑橘汁 

传统意式panzanella沙拉作法简单, 

口感新鲜细腻,在意大利流传数百年 

而人气丝毫不减,在「帝雅廷意大利 

餐厅」高级主厨Anthony Alaimo的 Alaimo的 

巧妙改良下,沙拉加入味道质朴的祖 

传蕃茄、小黄瓜、洋葱、酪梨及自制 

柑橘酱,舒爽度倍加,方形面包块增 

添酥脆口感,最后在扇贝、明虾及龙 

虾的搭配下,层次更为丰富饱满。 

september 2013 2013 | TASTING | TASTING KITCHEN KITCHEN | 27| 

27

甜蜜时光 

sweet 

moments 

Toward the end of her recently released book, Butterflies and All 

Things Sweet, Bonnae Gokson quotes the Bengali writer Rabindranath 

Tagore: “The butterfly counts not months but moments, and has 

time enough.” The book, subtitled The Story of Ms. B’s Cakes, is a 

celebration of Ms. Gokson’s focus on evanescent pleasures, on the 

enjoyment of moments, and on her tremendous talent for creating 

sweet moments for other people. 

These sweet moments often take the form of her famously 

inventive cakes. “The cakes I create for my customers are like 

butterflies, here and then gone, devoured in a few sweet bites,” she 

says. The book itself is a series of lovely moments, with images of 

the cakes surrounded by the things that have inspired them: “Spools 

of brightly colored ribbons, the seeds of a pomegranate, a fragment 

of handmade lace that holds memories of my years in fashion, the 

petals of a peony: all these things inspire me to create cakes that give 

pleasure to my customers.” 

You might say that Bonnae Gokson’s aim in life has been to 

release a series of butterflies out into the world. The evidence in her 

book suggests that she has been succeeding, and beautifully. 

香港「甜点女王」郭志怡 (Bonnae Gokson) 在新书「Butterflies and 

All Things Sweet」文末引用了印度诗人泰戈尔的一段话 :「蝴蝶在世不 

算年月,而以瞬息计,却已无比充裕。」新书副标为「The Story of Ms. 

B’s Cakes」,记载了郭志怡追求生命乐趣的执着。她享受每一刻,发挥 

无限想像力为客人创造甜蜜回忆。 

这些令人无法忘怀的回忆,主要归功于她的招牌创意蛋糕。郭志 

怡形容 :「我为客户量身订做的蛋糕就像蝴蝶一样,不消几口即享用完 

毕,稍纵即逝。」新书内容如同美好时光的汇串,一幅又一幅精美蛋糕 

伴随其灵感来源的美丽画面,正如书中所述 :「亮色缎带的卷轴、石榴 

的籽、勾起过往时尚界回忆的一片手工蕾丝,或牡丹花瓣-都能激发 

我的灵感,创作独一无二的蛋糕,带给客人欢乐。」 

或许可以说郭志怡的人生目标,就是让一只只蝴蝶来到这个世界。 

由这本书可知,她成功了,蝴蝶翩翩起舞,美丽又动人。 

Marie Antoniette’s 

Crave Cake from SEVVA 

Ebony & Ivory from Ms B’s Cakery 

books 


food & art 

30 

那不勒斯湾大海的恩赐 

bounty of the 

bay of naples 

A vivid sea-themed mosaic provides insight 

into the dining habits of the Ancient Romans. 

Before the eruption of Mt Vesuvius in 79 AD, the Roman 

port city of Pompeii did a roaring trade in wine, olives and its 

most infamous export, garum. This pungent fish sauce, made 

by crushing whole fish and fermenting the mixture in brine for 

up to six weeks, was used to flavor dishes across the Empire. 

Not everybody was a fan: Seneca, the Roman philosopher 

and statesman, complained that it “burns up the stomach 

with its salted putrefaction.” 

In this wonderfully detailed mosaic, unearthed by 

archeologists in a nondescript city villa, the observer is 

invited to dive deep under the white crests of the Bay of 

Naples. Among the rocks and seaweed adorning the sea 

floor, a lobster and an octopus are locked in battle. Around 

them floats a smorgasbord of edible sea creatures. Some – 

the mullet, bream, squid, eel and prawn – feature regularly 

on tables today, while others, such as the sharks, stingray, 

scorpion fish and barnacle, are rarer delicacies. 

The Ancient Romans used mosaic to decorate walls and 

floors in shops, restaurants and dwellings. Similar undersea 

scenes have been discovered in other Pompeii residences, 

such as the lavish House of the Faun, suggesting that many 

citizens of the city may have shared a grateful appreciation 

for the bounties of the Mediterranean Sea. 


西元 79 年,维苏威火山爆发前,罗马帝 

国海港城市庞贝一片欣欣向荣,可见酒类、 

橄榄的大宗交易,以及让不少人掩鼻走避、 

味道刺鼻的出口品鱼酱 (garum)。罗马人 

把全鱼捣烂、浸于盐水中发酵六周制成鱼 

酱,为当时全国家家户户均会使用的调味 

品。不过也有人不买帐,像罗马哲学家及 

政治家赛内卡就曾抱怨,鱼酱的「盐腐味 

让胃都要烧起来了」。 

这幅马赛克于庞贝某处不知名的别墅 

中出土,细节之丰富让考古学家大为惊艳, 

可一探那不勒斯湾海底世界的奥妙。磐石 

及海草处处可见的海床上,龙虾及章鱼正 

打的难分难解,旁边则穿插了各种可食用 

的海中生物,其中鲱鱼、欧鳊、乌贼、鳗 

鱼及明虾至今仍是常见的食材,另外像鲨 

鱼、魟、天蝎鱼及藤壶则是较为少见的珍馐。 

古罗马人喜欢用马赛克装饰商店、餐 

厅及住宅的墙壁及地板。类似的海洋主题 

作品也曾于庞贝他处民宅,如奢豪的「农 

牧神之家 (House of the Faun)」中发现, 

代表了当时许多庞贝居民对于地中海惠赐 

的丰饶物产都怀着感激之心。

inspired living 

32 


老饕们,引擎始动 

diners, start 

your engines 

In honor of the approaching Macau Grand Prix, set a 

visually exciting table with Hermès’ racetrack motif 

Rallye 24 collection. The bold Limoges-porcelain 

tableware stands out with its modern design and six 

color options reminiscent of racing-team hues. Rallye 24 

comes in 17 shapes and is dishwasher and microwave 

safe – a collection created to go the distance. 

为了即将到来的澳门格兰披治大赛车,顶级品牌爱 

马仕(Hermès')以车道为设计灵感,推出由Limoges 

陶瓷打造、全新的「Rallye 24」系列餐盘。前卫 

及流线设计,及六大色系均让人联想到参赛车队 

的代表颜色。「Rallye 24」系列共有17种造型, 

均可放入洗碗机及微波炉内使用,绝对耐用。 

+852 2525 5900, www.hermes.com 


inspired living 

34 

海鲜食具精选 

seafood, 

stainless steel style 

Oyster Glove 

生蚝手套 

Comes in standard and large 

to fit a range of oyster lovers. 

标准、特大尺寸应有 

尽有,满足生蚝迷所需。 

€ 218 

 

 

Marisco Oyster Chucker 

牡蛎剥壳刀 

Twist and slide the 

blade to open even the 

most stubborn shells. 

顺势插入、一扭,最难缠的牡 

蛎壳也只能乖乖敞开大门。 

€ 159 


Succulent seafood is also slippery seafood. 

To avoid a mess, invest in Pott’s stainless steel tools. 

Stirring Spoon / 

Lobster Fork 

挖杓/龙虾叉 

Slim sticks do double-duty. 

One end stirs, the other spears. 

细柄两端各有功用: 

一边挑起,一边戳刺。 

€ 39 (set of two, € 74) 

 

 

Oyster bowl serving 

set with stand 

生蚝立盘 

A little ice, a lot of oysters 

and a feast is ready. 

铺点冰块、放上大量生蚝, 

美味飨宴准备上桌。 

€ 175 

H www.pott-bestecke.de 

Lobster Pliers 

龙虾钳 

Shells don’t stand a 

chance against this heavy 

duty appliance. 

龙虾钳设计精巧、 

耐用,虾壳迎刃而解。 

€ 156 

 

 

Oyster Fork 

生蚝叉 

Frees an oyster from its 

watercolor shell with ease. 

将生蚝自水彩般的壳中 

取出,不费吹灰之力。 

€ 39 

 

 

 

 

 

 


savoir-vivre 

36 

雅致生活艺术所在 

the art of elegant living 

Etiquette consultant Catherine Soulas-Baron is the founder of Hong Kong’s Academy of 

Etiquette and Modern Manners. She devotes herself to studying the role of food and drink 

in the history of society and is an expert on savoir-vivre and the art of elegant living. 

What is savoir-vivre exactly? 

The French phrase savoir-vivre is a little hard to translate. All in 

one phrase it conveys politeness, etiquette, demeanor, personal 

behavior, how one carries oneself, table manners and more. It 

can be understood as the path to a life of cultivation. France’s 

own path to cultivation started with King Louis XIV, the Sun 

King, and has long since been the world standard for etiquette. 

Nowadays, it has become both a lifestyle and a life philosophy 

synonymous with elegance and excellence. Savoir-vivre defines 

how delicacies are to be enjoyed, how to taste wine, how to 

savor a fine cigar, how to receive guests, and the rules of table 

etiquette. 

What is so important about etiquette? 

These kinds of soft skills can turn a simple meal into a pleasant 

and relaxing event, as well as assist you with smoothly fitting 

into refined social circles. Proper etiquette makes you 

stand out from the crowd, gives you an elegant 

bearing and encourages modesty and respect. 

Caviar is considered by some to be the 

pinnacle of Western gourmet cuisine. Therefore, 

it should be served in a crystal bowl to better 

highlight its elegance. 

Caviar should always be served on a bed of crushed ice. 

A silver spoon should never be used with any respectable 

caviar, as it will transfer an unpleasant taste to the caviar. 

There are many ways to enjoy caviar, but true connoisseurs 

eat it after making a small mound of the eggs on the back of the 

hand, between the thumb and index finger. 

仪节 (savoir vivre) 一词该如何理解? 

「savoir vivre」在法文中可指礼貌、礼节、 

举止、个人行为、风度或餐桌礼仪等,意 

思很多,要直译其实有点困难。如需诠释 

可理解为高尚生活之道。法国的高尚生活 

之道从太阳国王露易十四开始,已成为世 

界礼仪之坐标。时至今日 , 已成为一种生 

活格调,一种生活哲学,是优雅与卓越的 

代名词。如何品尝美食、如何品酩、如何 

品味雪茄、如何招待宾客,乃至于餐桌礼 

仪等都含括其中。 

礼仪为何如此重要? 

透过得当的软性技能 (soft skills),简单的 

一餐也能变成愉悦及惬意的飨宴,同时也 

能帮助你顺利融入上流社交圈。 

举止恰宜的人与众不同,举 

手投足间得体优雅、端庄 

有礼,受人尊重。 

Caviar EtiquEttE 如何享用鱼子酱 


鱼子酱是西方顶级食 

材的代表,常盛装于水晶 

盘中,衬托其高雅的气质。 

鱼子酱一定要置于铺着碎冰的 

盛盘上。 

任何品质优良的鱼子酱,均不得以银制 

汤匙品尝,否则会影响鱼子酱的原味。 

品尝鱼子酱的方式很多,但真正的行家 

喜欢用手背来品味,虎口处放上一小匙鱼 

子酱,直接吸吮入肚就是最佳的方式。 


创意之源 

the heart of the mandarin 

At The Mandarin Oriental’s Krug Room, Chef Uwe Opocensky’s 

innovative dishes defy categorization. 

The firsT sign that this will be no ordinary 

dining experience is the delicate posy 

of freshly picked English wildflowers on 

the long marble dining table of the recently 

refurbished Krug Room. Uwe Opocensky, 

the Mandarin Oriental Hotel’s Executive 

Chef, has seen to the floral arrangement 

himself. 

How interesting that the Executive Chef 

concerns himself with the details of the 

room’s decoration. His attention to detail 

is clearly extraordinary – but that’s not the 

whole story. The floral arrangement isn’t 

just beautiful. Every element of the gracefully 

composed bouquet also turns out to 

be edible: the pale pink meadowsweet, the 

toothwort sprigs, the fine nettles and the 

“branches” that are in fact crisp brown bread 

tasting notes 


sticks intended to be dipped in the creamy 

herb butter placed at the base of the vase. 

Chef Uwe grins: “You’re not going to be 

eating normal food today.” 

Indeed. In his six years as Executive Chef 

of that grand dame of Hong Kong establishments, 

the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, 

German-born Chef Uwe has brought imagination, 

freshness and vision to a hotel that has 

always enjoyed a sterling reputation for dining 

excellence, but perhaps less recognition for 

innovation and creativity. The process of transforming 

the Mandarin into a dynamic dining 

destination began here, in the Krug Room, the 

40 


twelve-seat enclave that is now the beating 

heart of the hotel’s gastronomic culture, the 

place where ideas have their genesis before 

radiating out into the hotel’s other restaurants. 

“We start with a concept for a dish. In 

the Krug Room, we might test this idea on 

two people first. We then think, ‘Can we do 

this dish for five hundred people? A thousand? 

Two thousand?’ You modify it slightly 

of course. But the Krug Room is the heart 

of where it all begins.” 

The transformation of the room has 

been inspired in part by the idea of dining 

in a luxury train carriage. “Like the Orient 

Express,” explains Chef Uwe. Gone are the 

austere white plates and contemporary finishes 

of the former Krug Room, replaced by 

tones of plum and gold and an air of refined, 

but never ostentatious, luxury. 

This makes sense, given the partnership 

with that most elite yet discreet of Champagne 

brands – Krug. The weight of such 

a reputation boosts expectations sky-high: 

is there ever any hesitation in pushing the 

envelope, knowing Krug CEO Margareth 

Henriquez is watching every move with interest? 

“No. Never,” says Uwe. “It’s exactly the 

opposite. They are always asking me, ‘What 

踏入新近整修完成的香港文华东方酒店「库 

克厅」,便会被大理石长桌上的现摘英伦野 

花束所吸引。雅致精巧的花艺由行政总厨 

Uwe Opocensky 亲自打理,也似乎预示着 

接下来会是场别开生面的飨宴。 

作为总厨,连餐厅内的装饰摆设都要 

亲自操办,还真少见。他对细节锱铢必较 

的程度令人赞叹,不过若以为仅止于此可 

就大错特错了。 

花艺设计不只为赏心悦目,花束里看 

得到的几乎都是食材,包括淡粉色的绣线 

菊、齿鳞草细枝、上好的荨麻以及置于花 

瓶底部的「树枝」-其实是沾裹草本奶油、 

酥脆焦黄的面包条。 

德籍总厨 Uwe 笑着说 :「今天会来点 

跟平常不一样的。」 

的确,他入主香港奢华酒店代名词「文 

华东方」六年来,以天马行空的想像力带 

来许多惊奇及愿景,除了维持「文华东方」 

于顶级餐饮界第一把交椅的地位不坠,也 

挹注原本较为缺乏的创新力道及创意想法。 

「库克厅」在此转型过程中扮演举足轻重的 

角色,仅能容纳 12 位宾客的斗室却是驱动 

「文华东方」追求极致餐饮文化的核心所在, 

创意由此灵聚,继而辐散至其他餐厅。 

「一道料理我们会先提想法,可能在库 

克厅试做给两个人吃,然后会想,『那可以 

做给五百个人吃,甚或一两千人吃吗?』 

The Lawn, Afternoon Tea 

当然过程会稍有调整,但库克厅就是心脏, 

所有创意的来源。」 

库克厅重新装修的灵感来自高级列车 

车厢,总厨说明 :「就像在东方特快车上用 

餐一样」,往昔素静淡白的餐盘及当代设计 

风格已不复见,取而代之的是青紫及金色 

的主色调、精致却不铺张的低调奢华。 

华美气势正与库克厅另一幕后推手, 


are you going to come up with next?’ There 

is no limitation here on what you should and 

shouldn’t do. When I speak with Krug, it is 

never, ‘Oh, what food are you going to do to 

go with our Champagne?’ They are totally 

relaxed about the whole thing.” 

Chef Uwe’s confidence and unfettered 

creativity are manifest in his exquisite 

“Vivaldi” dish. Inspired by its namesake’s 

Four Seasons concertos, it is an artfully 

arranged medley of paprika, pea, pumpkin 

and caviar purees, poured to form the 

image of a tree in full seasonal splendor. A 

cherry-shaped ball of fois gras dangles from 

42 


a branch. “For a dish like this, I’ll do a drawing, 

and then from that we make a special 

stencil to create the image.” 

Food this precise is serious business, but 

Chef Uwe’s sense of humor ensures that 

dining at the Krug Room is never stiff or pretentious. 

He recalls the story of a frequent 

Krug Room customer who hired the room 

for his 40th birthday. “He asked, ‘Can we do 

something special here?’ We said of course 

we can, so we served a school dinner. It was 

big pots of vegetables, mash, peas, steak and 

kidney pie, even our interpretation of Spam 

in a can.” And the pièce de résistance? Chef 

Uwe, dressed in a tuck-shop apron, wheeling 

the feast in on a kitchen trolley and doling 

out wooden trays so everyone could stand in 

line to get their serving. “That was an interesting 

experience!” he laughs. 

And creating an experience, explains 

Chef Uwe, is a chef’s most important goal. 

“If you come to the Mandarin and it is just 

an intake of food, I have not succeeded. 

Hong Kong is so fast paced. If I can make 

you stop for a moment, have a conversation 

about the food, take a picture even, put away 

the Blackberry and enjoy the moment, then 

I’m doing my job well.” 

同名顶级香槟品牌的风格相互衬托。与业 

界无人不晓的「库克」香槟合作,想必期 

待值也几乎破表 :想到一举一动都被「库 

克」执行长 Margareth Henriquez 都看在眼 

里,是否真能放开胆子去尝试? Uwe 强调: 

「跟大家想的刚好相反,反而是他们一直问 

我『接下来要做什么新东西』,没有人下指 

导棋,想做什么都可以。和库克沟通的时候, 

从来不会听到『你要创作什么料理来搭配 

库克的香槟?』,他们很放心,也从不干涉。」 

总厨无穷的想像力在发想自作曲家韦 

瓦第知名协奏曲「四季」的同名自信之作 

中展露无遗。在他巧妙安排下,混制红辣椒、 

豌豆、南瓜及鱼子酱成泥,绘制一棵尽显 

春日之美的树,加上悬挂树枝、樱桃形状 

的鹅肝球,更添趣味。「做这种创意料理 

我会先画草图,再就此特制模版,方便实 

际做出造型。」 

料理做到如此精准不能不令宾客肃然 

起敬,但总厨独有的幽默感,却总能让库 

克厅的气氛轻松自然。他还记得有个常客 

某次包场要庆祝 40 岁生日:「客人问我『能 

不能来点特别的?』我说当然没问题,于 

是就做了全套的英美学校晚餐。大锅大锅 

的蔬菜、马铃薯泥、豌豆、牛排及肉排腰 

子派,以及库克风格的猪肉罐头应有尽有。 

Uwe 还配合演出,穿上白围裙,化身打菜 

大叔推出餐车,宾客排排站着,等他派发 

Vivaldi, The Krug Room 

木头餐盘拿食物,更是『当天的高潮所在』。」 

总厨也忍俊不住 :「当真兴味盎然!」 

为客人创造体验,厨师责无旁贷。 

Uwe 特别强调 :「如果到文华东方只是吃吃 

东西就走的话,就是我失职。香港步调这 

么快,如果我能让客人稍微抽空聊聊眼前 

的美食,甚至黑莓机先放一旁,拍张照片, 

享受当下,我就成功了。」 


44 


How does Krug maintain consistent 

quality every year? 

We keep a library of beautiful vintages 

and blend them together to make the 

most stunning liquid, ensuring that when 

a particular vintage is disappointing, Krug 

lovers will still have the chance to drink 

a wonderful Champagne. The blending 

is an art – there can be over a hundred 

individual wines in a blend and it is 

completely driven by taste. The blend will 

be changed and altered until it is perfect. 

How should Champagne be served to 

appreciate it fully? 

Champagne is about joy, so its flavor should 

not be stifled. I don’t like flute glasses as 

they hide the flavor of the wine. And it is 

not good to serve Champagne too cold – it 

restrains the subtle notes. Riedel designed 

us a special glass, which is wider and allows 

blending the senses 

库克香槟如何保持品质上乘? 

我们对于葡萄丰收年份均有详细记载,精 

心挑选、混酿制作令人惊艳的好酒,即便 

某一特定年份的酒液不尽人意,我们的忠 

实客户仍不乏特极香槟可享用。混酿真的 

是门艺术,动辄就要混搭上百种酒液,箇 

中拿捏完全取决于所要的味道。达到完美 

品质前,混酿需要不断修整及微调。 

香槟的最佳享用方式是? 

香槟为欣悦而生,天性使然。一般细长酒 

杯会掩盖香槟风味,对此我个人并不欣赏。 

此外香槟不宜过冷,否则细致的味道会被 

压抑。 Riedel 特别为我们设计了以创办人 

all the aspects of the Champagne to show 

themselves. They call it “The Joseph” after 

our founder. But you could also serve Krug 

in a white wine glass to give it a chance to 

reveal its flavors. As the wine warms up 

when you drink it, you will notice more and 

more aromas and flavors coming to the 

fore – it’s a journey, down to the last sip! 

It’s really about activating all the senses. 

Champagne is a drink that delights all 

the senses. When you take a sip of 

Champagne the first thing you do is smell 

it – this opens your palate and allows you 

to fully savor the wine. But there is more 

to wine than just those two senses. It 

looks beautiful, with the bubbles rising in 

the golden liquid. And there is an aural 

quality too – the pop of the cork, the 

sound as the wine is poured into a glass, 

and the sound of the bubbles dancing. 

「Joseph」为名的宽颈酒杯,能完整体现香 

槟的各种特色。用白酒杯也是一种选择, 

可以让我们品牌的香槟散发独有的气味。 

入口后香槟渐暖,会逐渐引发内蕴的多种 

香气及味道。在最后一口前,味蕾都能徜 

徉在各式绝妙的美味中。 

喝香槟就是要让人五感舒畅是吧? 

香槟能启动全身感官,让人通体舒畅。喝香 

槟第一件事就是「闻」,有助打开味觉,品 

味好酒。但除了嗅觉及味觉,视觉也是关键 

所在,气泡不断从金黄色泽的香槟中冒出, 

着实赏心悦目。加上开瓶、倒酒及泡沫喷流 

起舞的声音,不斥也是一场听觉飨宴。 

tasting notes 

You have recently been exploring the 

realm of sound with your Champagne – 

tell us a little more about that. 

Every Champagne sounds different, but I 

think Krug has the most beautiful sound 

of all. Everyone appreciates the beauty 

in the sound of the sea, and as children 

we hold seashells to our ears to hear the 

roar and whoosh of the waves. I was 

inspired to bring that dimension – the 

sense of sound – to the experience of 

tasting Champagne, so Krug has created 

a beautiful conch-like shell, which fits on 

top of the Riedel glass. If you put your ear 

to the shell, it amplifies the sound of the 

bubbles. 

When you agitate the liquid, the 

sound becomes louder and more intense. 

I love to watch people’s faces when they 

listen to Champagne for the first time – 

they are so beautiful! 

Joseph Krug founded the Krug Champagne House in 1843 with a vision: to produce 

Champagne of superlative quality and to do it every year, again and again. With 

a background in the commercial wine trade, he felt that he owed his customers a wonderful wine regardless of the vagaries of 

that year’s harvest. Current Krug CEO Margareth Henriquez spoke with TK about blending vintages and senses. • 早在 1843 年, 

Joseph Krug 创立库克香槟酒庄 (Krug Champagne) 时就惦记着一件事 :每年都要制作出品质无可挑剔的香槟,循环往复。因 

为出身酒水贸易背景,他总觉得不管每年收成好坏,都应让顾客拥有绝佳的美酒享受。库克香 

混酿之最感官之旅 

槟总裁 Margareth Henriquez 近日特别接受 TK 访问,分享混酿酒及品酒感官享受的经验谈。 

您最近一直钻研香槟的声音,其中故事能 

否和我们分享一下? 

每支香槟听起来都不一样,但我敢说库克 

声音之美,绝对数一数二。海洋之声,大 

家都非常推崇,小时候我们也喜欢把贝壳 

放耳边,聆听浪潮的翻覆呼啸。所以我就想, 

何不加强听觉的享受,让品尝香槟的体验 

更加丰富。库克因此在特制 Riedel 酒杯上 

加缀看似贝壳的响螺,造型相当别致。喝 

香槟时附耳到响螺边,泡沫声可听得一清 

二楚。摇晃酒杯,声音会愈加集中继而更 

响亮。我喜欢看大家第一次听到香槟声音 

的表情,真是太美好了! 


sponsored feature 

Steamed Sliced Garoupa 

with Egg White Custard 

and Chinese Wine 

花雕蛋白蒸海斑球 

阴阳食补暖迎秋 

yin yang autumn delights 

City of Dreams Executive Chef Tam Kwok Fung chooses the best 

and healthiest ingredients for Jade Dragon’s autumn menu. 

“We like to do as much as we can to make 

our guests feel comfortable,” says Executive 

Chef Tam Kwok Fung of Jade Dragon Restaurant. 

“That includes looking after their 

physical well-being. Our dishes are carefully 

prepared in accordance with our philosophy: 

yin yang balance and seasonally appropriate 

eating. Our menu is more than just fine 

dining – it’s also healthy dining.” 

Chef Tam believes foods contain different 

elements that can support the body’s 

basic functions. Eating healthily and being 

mindful of the time of year, climate and 

available ingredients gives people a greater 

chance to feel fit and well all year round. 

“Autumn in Southern China is when the 

weather becomes drier, less humid. We need 

moister food to counteract the changing conditions. 

The perfect foods for autumn are 

mildly nourishing and slightly warming, but 

tend not to have really strong flavors.” 

“This is a sea conch, caught locally,” says 

Tam, presenting a foot-long, pointed and 

convoluted sea snail with a pale green shell. 

The flesh inside is peach-colored. “The meat 

is very sweet. Conch is popular in the South 

of China but is very much a deluxe product.” 

Tam makes sure nothing is wasted from this 

special creature: “If we have a large conch 

like this, we make two dishes. We take the 

meat out, peel and slice it, then stir fry. We 

use the skin for double-boiled soup.” 

Tam has created a delicious soup, perfect 

「誉珑轩」行政总厨谭国锋在谈到餐厅理念 

时表示 :「我们竭尽所能让顾客舒服自在, 

像是以各种对健康有益的食材入菜方面, 

我们便下了极大的功夫。在我们餐厅,任 

何一道菜的准备功夫都马虎不得,就是希 

望能展现阴阳平衡和时令餐饮等两大经营 

哲学。我们的菜色不仅精致,更是健康饮 

食的代名词。」 

谭国锋深信,食物蕴含的不同元素可 

作为人体机能运作的后盾。饮食健康,留 

心时节递换及气候转变,适度食用季节食 

材都有助身心平衡,让人整年维持在最佳 

状态。「时序进入秋天,中国南部潮湿天 

候逐渐远离、变得干燥,需要适时多摄取 

饱含水分的食材。营养丰富、略微温热且 

味道适中的食材最适合于秋天品尝。」 

Lobster with Rice 

in Superior Broth 

浓汤龙虾泡饭 




Executive Chinese Chef Tam Kwok Fung 中菜行政总厨谭国锋 

for the changing season, by adding chicken 

stock and sliced ginger to the conch meat. 

“We use ginger to make the soup a little 

warming. We keep it simple – no serious 

herbs or seasonings, just the natural seafood 

flavor, a slight meaty back-taste from 

the chicken and some ginger to lift it. Great 

for balancing the body’s condition.” 

Conch is one of many treasures swimming 

around near the coast of Southern 

China, where the fresh waters of the Pearl 

River estuary dilute the deep salty ocean. “In 

the old days people sat on the steam boat 

between Hong Kong and Macau for hours, 

just so they could buy our local crabs and 

carry them home in their bamboo baskets. 

The taste of Macau crab is natural and succulent 

– the waters are rich in feed for the 

fish and this gives a juicy quality to the meat. 

We have lionhead fish too which you can find 

in the wet markets here. They are expensive, 

but the flavor and texture of them is something 

you will never forget! And then there 

are the prawns. South China Sea prawns 

have great texture – both tender and chewy. 

Nowadays there is a focus on farmed food 

and fish, but I don’t agree with it. I prefer 

natural, wild-caught food. It tastes better.” 

48 


South China Sea prawns are the main 

focus of another of Tam’s autumn dishes. A 

lacy basket made from translucent rice flour 

holds pink prawns, shiny walnuts studded 

with tiny sesame seeds, and gleaming chive 

shoots. This beautiful dish has a fresh and 

delicious aroma. Made with local produce, 

it’s light-flavored yet deeply satisfying. 

“Prawns are a good source of protein,” 

says Tam. “The combination of fish and 

chives is naturally warming. Chives come 

from the garlic family and are reputed to 

defend against cold, bacteria and germs. As 

for walnuts – well, the Chinese believe that 

they are a healing food, good for the brain 

and kidneys. We toast the walnuts with some 

brown sugar in the wok, then fry them for 

two minutes. When you roast nuts with a 

little brown sugar it makes them more nourishing 

for the body. Perfect for autumn!” 

Chef Tam summarizes Jade Dragon’s 

cooking philosophy: “It is better to eat right 

on a daily basis than to wait until you get sick 

and rely on medicines. Daily consumption 

of good, nourishing food will balance your 

body’s condition. Choosing the right food 

for the season should help keep you healthy 

throughout the year.” 

总厨拿起了只长约一尺的响螺、螺壳 

外突、呈盘旋状,带着白绿色泽,螺肉颜 

色则像蜜桃般娇嫩。他说 :「螺肉很甜,在 

中国南部算是很受欢迎的顶级食材。」在 

「誉珑轩」,这般大小的海螺通常会做成两 

道菜,一道把肉取出、去皮切片后下锅爆炒, 

皮则放于炖汤,物尽其用。 

为了迎合季节变换,谭国锋使用螺肉、 

鸡汤及姜片熬煮独门汤品,美味非常。他 

也大方分享制作秘诀 :「姜可让汤喝起来较 

暖,除此之外一切简单至上,无须添加特 

别的药草或调味品,便能喝得到海鲜的原 

味,另外在姜的提味下,还尝得到些许鸡 

肉香甜的余韵,对于身体状况平衡大有益 

处!」 

中国南部沿海地区与珠江交会,偏咸 

的海水受到稀释,孕育出许多近海珍馐, 

海螺便是其中之一。「以前有不少人习惯 

搭蒸气船往返港澳,花上数小时就是为了 

采买我们当地的螃蟹,再用竹篓整笼带回。 

澳门蟹滋味天然、水分饱满,且拜此区水 

中生物繁多所赐,栖息的鱼类肥美,肉质 

多汁。这里的生鲜湿货市场也找得到狮头 

鱼,虽然价格不菲,但味道及肉质让人一 

试难忘!南中国海出产的明虾也绝对不能 

错过,软嫩中带有嚼劲,口感极佳。现在 

许多养殖食物或鱼类大行其道,但我总无 

法苟同,还是偏爱天然、野生捕捉的食材, 

吃起来滋味更足。」 

韭菜花合桃炒斗门花竹虾正是谭国锋 

秋季菜单中的另一个亮点。红粉的明虾、带 

有亮泽的合桃,缀以芝麻及透亮的葱芽,置 

于糯米粉制成的花边透明篮篓中,相当别致, 

散发清新且诱人的香气。使用的俱是地方农 

产食材,口味清淡,却让人一尝倾心。 

谈到这道菜,谭国锋表示 :「花竹虾富 

含蛋白质,另外鱼肉加上细葱有天然温热 

的效果。细葱与大蒜系出同门,都有祛寒、 

遏止细菌及病毒的功效。至于合桃,中国 

人视为具疗效的食材,对于大脑及肾脏特 

别好。我们在铁锅中加入合桃及些许黑糖 

烘烤,再拌炒两分钟即可。坚果类加点黑 

糖过烤,有助释放出对人体有营养的成分, 

正是秋季菜式的不二之选!」 

总结「誉珑轩」的餐饮理念,谭国锋说: 

「相较于病起求医,每天的正确饮食显得更 

为重要。摄取品质良好、营养丰富的食物对 

于保持身心健康平衡极有裨益。顺应时节吃 

的好、吃的对,可保经年健康无虞。」 

Stir-fried Sea Prawns with 

Walnut and Garlic Chives 

韭菜花合桃炒斗门花竹虾 

Double-boiled Sea Conch with 

Dried Longan, Yam and Wolfberry 

桂圆淮杞炖响螺

50 

Curry Crab Tartlets 

咖哩蟹肉批 

Roasted Chorizo with 

Toasted Bread and Thyme 

燒葡国腸配香草多士 

Sauteed Broad Beans and 

Black Sausage with Tomato & Coriander 

葡国黑血腸炒扁豆 

Stewed Chicken Giblets with Beer 

葡式啤酒烩鸡杂 


葡轩推出全新菜单 

海中美味应有尽有 

savor the sea 

At Galaxy Macau ’ s Gosto, Chef de Cuisine Mario Gil’s 

new menu showcases the fabulous seafood of Portugal. 

“Portugal is famous for its seafood,” 

says Gosto Chef de Cuisine Mario Gil. 

“It’s a seaside country with a lot of shoreline 

and I think that is what distinguishes 

Portuguese from other European cuisines. 

The new menu will really focus on that.” 

Since taking over at Galaxy 

Macau’s Gosto in April 2013, 

Chef Mario has been busy 

designing a new menu, 

set to be launched in 

late October. It will 

showcase traditional 

Portuguese dishes, 

current Macanese 

favorites, and modern 

twists on both. Plenty of 

Portugal’s famous seafood 

dishes are included. 

“I do like to work with fish 

– it is very versatile, you can do 

so much with it,” he says. “I love 

the fact that it is very delicate 

and demanding to work with, 

so you really have to focus. If 

you overwork it or overcook it, the flavors 

disappear.” 

It’s impossible to talk about Portuguese 

seafood without mentioning the ubiquitous 

bacalhau, and a variety of salted cod dishes 

feature on the new menu, including Deep 

Fried Cod Fish Balls with Chickpea Salad. 

“These are usually served as two individual 

Traditional Potato Soup 

with Green Cabbage 

and Chorizo Oil 

葡国薯蓉青菜汤 


「」葡轩 (Gosto) 总厨马俊杰自 

豪表示 :「葡萄牙靠海,海岸线绵长,海鲜 

也赫赫有名,造就葡萄牙菜别于其他欧陆 

料理,独树一格的美味。海鲜正是我们全 

新系列菜色的聚焦所在。」 

马俊杰于 2013 年 4 月接掌葡轩后,无 

时不在构思于 10 月下旬即将推出的全新 

菜色。菜单概想将有如故事书一 

般,有传统葡式料理、当代 

葡澳美味,也有集两派之 

长的全新融合菜色,知名 

葡萄牙海鲜料理几乎全 

员到齐。如此丰盛的海 

鲜飨宴,要总厨从中挑 

出自己所爱可真是难倒 

他了。 

马总厨笑着说 :「没 

有什么最爱的啦!不过鱼 

类料理千变万化,一直是我爱 

用的食材,着实能够大展身手。 

处理鱼类需要细工,没两把刷 

子可做不来,得要全神贯注才 

行。处理或蒸煮过度都可能会 

令鱼的鲜味尽失。」 

说到葡萄牙海鲜,绝对不 

能漏掉的就是无所不在的国民食材马介休 

(bacalhau),也正是马总厨的拿手食材之一。 

在新菜单上你能找到包括马介休球佐鸡心 

豆沙拉等多种马介休美食。马总厨表示 : 

「马介休球和鸡心豆沙拉都是常见的前菜, 

但甚少放在一起上桌。我这次用现代手法 

将两者融合,以崭新风貌上桌,却又丝毫 

不减彼此的风味。」 



Deep Fried Cod Fish Balls with Chickpea Salad 

炸马介休球配鸡心豆沙拉 

「在葡萄牙,以马介休为食材的料理 

之多,一时半刻都说不完。如果身在国外, 

要端出地道的葡式料理的话,一定少不了 

马介休,我们都称它为『最好的朋友』。」 

走遍澳门各地的葡式餐厅,几乎都能 

看到马介休的踪影,但为了配合当地饕客 

的口味,马总厨于准备过程中有稍做调整。 

「味道太咸本地人吃不习惯,所以我小调了 

一下,做出本地饕客喜欢的口味。一般作 

法是让马介休在水中浸超过 48 小时,以略 

减咸味 ;但在我们餐厅时间拉更长,才不 

会那么咸,有时会到 50 甚或 52 小时,但 

再过可就不行了,味道可能会跑掉。」 

52 


以传统半球形铜锅炖煮而成的经典葡 

式美味「葡萄牙特级海鲜煲 (cataplana)」 

也是新菜单上的一大亮点。 

「海鲜煲集各式海洋美味精华于一身, 

包括蛤蛎、淡菜、明虾及三种鱼类。通常 

是放在一起炖煮,但为了保留个别食材的 

美味,我特别分开处理后再组合上桌,尝 

得到鱼肉的鲜美,也吃得出淡菜的滋味。 

一起煮的话味道容易混淆,剩下的只有强 

烈的海鲜味道。但在我们餐厅,各种美味 

尽能品尝。」 

总厨也特别推荐烤肉肠、鸡杂及咖喱 

蟹等葡萄牙风味小菜 “pesticos”。马总厨特 

Seafood Stew in a cataplana 

葡萄牙特级海鲜煲 

别说到,咖喱蟹可视为自己对传统葡澳料 

理的个人诠释 :「调味较为清淡,正可品尝 

螃蟹的美味,咖喱味过重反而容易喧宾夺 

主。」 

马俊杰虽然初来乍到,但葡轩的厨师 

团队却是他最坚实的后盾。团队成员对于 

新菜单投注的心力让他赞赏不已,他说:「特 

别像葡式小菜这种新概念,他们也都能全 

力以赴。」 

「我常鼓励旗下厨师要把重点放在味道 

上,试着去品尝食物。再三品尝,力臻完美。 

我们有新菜单、崭新菜色即将上桌,我们 

准备好了!」 

starters. I combine them and present 

them in a more modern way,” says Chef 

Mario. “But the flavors are all still there.” 

“In Portugal we say we have 1,001 

recipes for bacalhau. If you are outside 

of Portugal and you are representing 

Portuguese cuisine, then you must have 

bacalhau on the menu. We call it our best 

friend.” 

Chef Mario alters the preparation 

slightly to suit local tastes. “Here diners 

don’t like things quite so salty, so I have 

adapted to suit the local palette,” he says. 

“Usually bacalhau rests in water for 48 

hours to lessen the salt content, but here 

we have to leave it in for longer so that it is 

not as salty. Sometimes we leave it in for 50 

to 52 hours, but it can’t be much more than 

that or you really lose the flavor.” 

The new menu also features his 

country’s classic cataplana, a robust seafood 

stew cooked in a traditional domed copper 

vessel. 

“The cataplana combines everything our 

shore gives us – clams, mussels, prawns, 

and three different types of fish. Typically 

it’s a stew, but I cook everything separately 

and then combine it all in order to maintain 

all the individual flavors. The fish will taste 

like fish, the mussels will taste like mussels. 

If you put everything in together, flavors get 

lost and you may only taste the strongest 

seafood. This way, you taste everything.” 

Chef Mario is also introducing petiscos – 

Portuguese tapas – such as roasted chorizo, 

chicken giblets, and curry crab. “This is my 

interpretation of the traditional Macanese 

dish,” Chef Mario says of the crab. “The 

flavor will be a little bit lighter so that you 

can really taste the crab. Too much curry 

can really overpower this delicate flavor.” 

Although Chef Mario is new to Gosto, 

he has a supportive team of chefs behind 

him. “My team here is really committed to 

this new menu,” he says. “I encourage my 

chefs to focus on the flavors and to taste 

and taste and taste again. We have new 

dishes, a new menu, and we’re ready to 

present the best of Portugal.” 

“If you are outside of Portugal and you 

are representing Portuguese cuisine, 

then you must have bacalhau on the 

menu. We call it our best friend.” 

Chef de Cuisine Mario Gil 


蓝色狂想正当时 

singing the 

brittany blues 

Colorful crustaceans make a splash 

at Banyan Tree Macau’s Belon 


Blue lobster tartar, 

fragrant ginger, 

gourmand salad 

蓝龙虾他他

sponsored feature sponsored feature 

Belon Chef de Cuisine Robby 

Setiawan and Assistant Beverage 

Manager for Banyan Tree Andy Tam 

The rare BriTTany Blue loBsTers have 

come out of hiding and Belon Chef de Cuisine 

Robby Setiawan is taking full advantage 

of their bravado. “September and October 

are the only months to catch them,” he 

says. “By November, they’ve disappeared 

for another year.” 

Lobsters are usually a motley mix of 

green and brown, but these Brittany Blues 

have a distinct blue tint and are prized for 

being sweeter and tastier than their Boston 

counterparts. “The blue lobster is much 

richer in flavor,” Robby says. “You can taste 

the ocean.” 

To showcase the rich distinct flavor of 

these prize lobsters, Chef Robby has created 

a set menu featuring fresh tartar, lobster 

bisque, and a beef spare rib ‘surf ‘n’ turf.’ 

For those who prefer their lobster straight 

up, steamed or grilled whole lobsters can be 

selected from the carving trolley. 

The indigo-tinged beauties are best paired 

with Krug champagne, advises Andy Tam, 

Assistant Beverage Manager for Banyan Tree 

Macau. “This Krug is non-vintage and has 

been aged in the bottle for six years,” he says. 

“It makes the flavors much more intense. 

Grilled lobster really brings out the smoky 

charcoal characteristics of the champagne. 

It’s really perfectly paired with something 

so delicate.” 

“Lobster doesn’t have to be difficult 

to work with,” says Robby. “You just need 

to understand the lobster and respect the 

ingredients. If you cook it too long you will 

ruin the flavor and the texture and you’ll get 

nothing. Treat them nice, and they will be 

good to you!” 

Beef spare rib, surf n turf, sauteed potato, kenya bean, stuffed tomato 

香烤蓝龙虾拼美国牛子骨 

九月和十月是蓝龙虾每年仅有的两个月捕 

捞期,相当珍贵。总厨石志云就说 :「到了 

十一月龙虾便会消失无踪,直到隔年才又 

出现。」因此他打算好好把握难得的蓝龙虾 

盛产季,大展身手。 

龙虾通常是绿色及棕色混杂,但蓝龙 

虾一如其名,带着显眼的青蓝色泽,也因 

肉质较波士顿龙虾来得鲜甜美味而大受饕 

客喜爱。石志云形容 :「味道非常丰富, 

吃得到来自大海的新鲜美味。」 

为了让饕客品尝蓝龙虾的各式美味, 

总厨特别打造全新餐单,包括新鲜龙虾 

他他、龙虾浓汤及搭配牛肋排的海陆料 

理。偏好品尝全龙虾的客人,也可从桌 

边烹调车选择清蒸或烧烤全虾,大快朵 

颐一番。 

蓝龙虾的餐酒搭配也马虎不得,悦 

榕庄餐饮部副经理 Andy Tam 便大力推荐 

法国顶级香槟 Krug :「这支酒是不记年香 

槟,陈酿大概六年,味道非常浓纯。烧烤 

龙虾正好诱发出香槟酝酿的烟熏焦炭风味。 

Krug 与肉质细嫩的龙虾可说是天作之合。」 

总厨也大方分享料理龙虾的心得 :「烹 

煮龙虾也可以很简单,重点是要对龙虾有 

通彻了解,并充分发挥好自己手中的食材。 

若烹煮时间过长,食材便会失去了其味道 

及口感。反之,对食材好一点,他们将会 

以最佳姿态呈现,给你最大的回报!」 


海中珍宝 

Treasures of the Sea 

Six delicious underwater wonders, imported 

to Hong Kong from around the world by Classic Fine Foods 


60 


靜待伯樂 

Slow Burner 

Goose Barnacles 鹅颈藤壶 

The goose barnacle, with its distinctive rings of black 

around a hard, bone-like shell, has been described as looking 

like a dinosaur’s claw. Found stubbornly attached to rocks and 

flotsam off the coast of Barcelona, they must be collected by 

hand, sometimes at great hazard in the crashing surf. Even 

after being rinsed, scrubbed, packed in ice, and then shipped 

by air, many arrive at kitchens still clinging to the rocks on 

which they were found. 

Goose barnacles have been enjoyed in Spain and 

Portugal for centuries, where they are boiled in salt water and 

eaten as tapas, with the tubular skin peeled back to reveal 

the springy, stretchy pink neck meat. The harder outside 

shell is left on as a useful handle for dipping in aioli, a type of 

garlicky Provençal sauce. 

While the Spanish might know when they are on to 

a good thing, international acceptance has been mixed. 

Once touted as the next big thing in upscale dining, goose 

barnacles have never really caught on outside of Iberia. In 

recent years fine food wholesalers have reported an uptick in 

interest from some tonier Asian restaurants, but demand for 

this underrated morsel is still criminally modest. No matter: 

that leaves more for the rest of us. 

鹅颈藤壶坚硬、类似骨头的壳上绕着多个 

黑色环圈,甚至有人以恐龙脚来形容其独 

特造型。鹅颈藤壶栖息于巴塞隆纳沿岸海 

域,顽强吸附在岩石或船只残骸上,因此 

仅能以人力采集,碰到海浪来势凶猛时, 

作业环境也变得相当险峻。经过冲洗、刷揉、 

冰库装箱,即便最后空运到餐厅,许多鹅 

颈藤壶仍紧紧依附于石头上。 

西班牙人及葡萄牙人食用鹅颈藤壶已 

有数百年历史,通常是以盐水汆烫后作为小 

菜享用。去掉管状外皮,就能看到弹牙且口 

感扎实的粉色颈肉,拿着坚硬的外壳可将颈 

肉佐以普罗旺斯蒜味酱汁「aioli」食用。 

鹅颈藤壶虽然在西班牙很受欢迎,但 

在其他国家的回响却是相当两极。虽然一 

度被捧为高级餐饮界的新星,但似乎仍走 

不出伊比利半岛。但近几年在高级食材批 

发商的推波助澜下,似乎出现了转机,不 

少时尚亚洲餐厅对鹅颈藤壶的兴趣渐浓, 

不过真正下手的仍是少之又少。但这样也 

好 :意味着我们有更多机会品尝这备受低 

估的美味食材。 


62 

陽光饗宴 

A lace in the Sun 

Tarbouriech Oysters 生蚝 

IT Is TempTIng to dismiss the distinctive pinkish hue of the 

Tarbouriech oyster shell as nothing more than a marketing 

gimmick, a swipe of blush on a beauty queen. After all, what 

can the merest tint of pink really reveal about the flesh within? 

As it happens, quite a lot. 

Tarbouriech oysters hail from Bassin de Thau, a tideless 

lagoon near Marseille in the South of France. Many other oyster 

farmers have their bases in these waters, but a unique farming 

technique makes the Tarbouriech special. At intermittent 

periods throughout the day, a solar-operated mechanism lifts 

the oyster frames out of the water, exposing each precious 

oyster to the sunshine in an attempt to recreate a natural tidal 

environment. 

Exposure to light and oxygen forces oysters to produce 

glycogen, which in turn causes the muscle to become denser 

and “nuttier” in taste. Chefs praise the Tarbouriech for its almost 

chewy texture. The sunshine is also responsible for adding the 

trademark rosy hue to each shell. 

The benefit of this farming system is twofold: not only 

is the taste improved, but it also breeds into the oysters a 

hardiness and adaptability to environmental changes, allowing 

them to survive much longer in transit than ordinary oysters. A 

definite plus, considering the distances each oyster must travel 

to fulfill burgeoning demand in all four corners of the globe. 


Tarbouriech 生蚝的粉色蚝壳独树一格, 

犹如美人脸颊的一抹红晕,但拿来当作行 

销的亮点似乎仍有点勉强。毕竟单凭外 

壳的颜色难以保证蚝肉也同样粉嫩诱人, 

不过打开之后却是里外如一,令人惊艳。 

Tarbouriech 生蚝产自法国南部大城 

马赛附近一处水波不兴的泻湖「Bassin 

de Thau」。在此也有许多其他种类的生 

蚝养殖场,但 Tarbouriech 生蚝却有一点 

与众不同 :一天当中固定时期,太阳能 

启动的机器会将养殖架自水中升起,让 

每颗生蚝都能晒到太阳,模拟自然的潮 

汐环境。 

吸收阳光及氧气让生蚝产生肝 

糖,使肉质结实,坚果味更为浓郁。 

Tarbouriech 生蚝近乎弹牙的口感备受大 

厨的好评,蚝壳上的招牌玫瑰色泽也是 

受阳光恩赐。 

此种特殊养殖技术有两种好处,一 

则让美味升级,同时也加强生蚝适应环 

境改变的能耐,运输途中的存活率比起 

一般生蚝高出许多。时值全球五大洲对 

于生蚝需求遽增,能长途旅行无虞的生 

蚝确实是一大优势。

64 


深海之后 

Deep Sea Diva 

Obsiblue Prawns 蓝虾 

precIous, cosseTed and perfecTly formed, it is no 

wonder Obsiblue prawns are often referred to as the “Rolls 

Royce” of their species. A pretty, almost translucent blue, 

with a dark tail, long delicate tentacles and superb pearl grey 

flesh, in no more than ten years they have risen from Coral 

Sea obscurity to become a versatile fine-dining staple. What 

triggered this ascent to superstardom? 

Perhaps the explanation is that Obsiblue prawns are 

special from the start. Farmed in low-density cages located 

in a pristine natural lagoon off the coast of New Caledonia 

in Eastern Australia, the spacious living arrangements 

and crystal clear waters ensure that each prawn grows 

unstressed to full size. Growth hormones, antibiotics and 

artificial substances of any kind are banned from their 

environment. As with any blossoming diva, it simply wouldn’t 

do to rush an Obsiblue along: they are given nine leisurely 

months to reach maturity, as opposed to three for a standard 

restaurant prawn. 

To obtain Obsiblue classification, each prawn must be 

caught, individually examined, and transported as a flawless 

whole. The merest imperfection has them ruthlessly culled 

from the lot. 

The result is an elegant, unblemished outer shell, and 

flesh with both a complex sweetness and bouncy firmness, 

especially when eaten raw. Once tasted, the question is not 

why Obsiblue prawns are on every Michelin-star menu, but 

why it took so long. 

珍贵异常、备受青睐,各方各面均无懈可 

击,无怪乎 Obsiblue 蓝虾享有虾中「劳斯 

莱斯」的美名。蓝虾带着近乎透明的青蓝 

色泽、虾尾颜色转暗、一对虾须细致又长, 

加上蕴含珍珠光泽的灰色虾肉,使其不到 

十年的时间便从澳洲珊瑚海默默无闻的食 

材跃升为顶级餐厅的新宠。 Obsiblue 蓝虾 

有何魅力短时间窜红晋升为明星食材呢? 

细列原因,第一点可能是 Obsiblue 蓝 

虾原本就独树一格,养殖于东澳新克里多 

尼亚沿岸水质纯净的泻湖,每笼仅放入少 

量蓝虾,让每只虾能在宽阔的环境及清澈 

的水质中毫无压力的养殖至成年体型。生 

长激素、抗生素及任何人造补给物均严格 

禁止。蓝虾也如培养绝代女伶般,非一朝 

一夕可成 :比起一般餐厅用虾子三个月的 

成长期,蓝虾可是有悠悠漫长九月龄的生 

长期。 

每只蓝虾都需个别检查、全虾运送、 

务求完美,才够格成为 Obsiblue 的一员。 

若有一丝瑕疵便只能接受无情淘汰的命运。 

出产的每批蓝虾都是品质保证,拥有 

漂亮无瑕的外壳及鲜甜、弹牙扎实并俱的 

口感,生吃时更能体验其美妙滋味。吃过 

的人必定对 Obsiblue 蓝虾身为米其林餐厅 

的必备珍馐毫无疑问,只想问等候佳肴的 

时间为何如此天长地久! 


天然美味用途多 

eed and Reap 

Seaweed 海草 

IT can be drIed in the sun, baked, pan-fried, ground to 

powder, boiled, or eaten fresh. Farmers don’t have to plant 

it, or water it – if you are lucky enough to live near a beach, 

you can collect it for free on your morning walk and have 

it salad-ready by lunch. Nutritionists agree that it’s packed 

with vitamins and essential minerals. It has a unique, natural, 

sweet and salty flavor. Depending on the variety, it can offer 

a unique summery kick to seafood dishes. Roasted, it has a 

wonderful savory flavor. 

It’s versatile, healthy and delicious. If you’re not already in 

the habit of rejoicing at the joys of seaweed, it’s time to start. 

Most edible types of seaweed can be broadly divided 

into three categories: brown, green and red. Brown seaweeds, 

like Wakame, hail from temperate and arctic waters and are a 

common element of Japanese cooking. 

Green seaweeds, sometimes known as sea lettuce, 

include varieties such as Kombu Breton and Kombu Royal. 

Also a core ingredient of Japanese cuisine, green seaweeds 

are used to add extra texture to soups and salads, and that 

certain savory flavor the Japanese call “Umami” or the “fifth 

flavor.” 

In the red corner are seaweeds that are slightly sweeter 

and often eaten crispy and dry. Dulse, a champion grower 

found on the northern shores of the Atlantic and Pacific 

Oceans, is used in Iceland in the place of tortilla chips, or 

eaten warm and slathered in butter. Not bad for a weed. 

海草有上百种加工方法,晒干、烘烤、干 

煎、磨粉、汆烫或直接生吃。不用费心栽 

种或浇水-幸运一点住海边的话,甚至早 

上散步采一些海草回家,中午就可以当沙 

拉享用了。海草也有营养师背书,富含多 

种维他命及必要矿物质,味道天然、鲜甜, 

带有咸味,独树一格。不同种类更能为海 

鲜料理带来独一无二的夏日风情。网烤处 

理则会散发扑鼻的开胃香气。 

海草用途百变、美味,对健康极有益 

处。还没习惯吃海草、大啖海草美味的人, 

现在开始还不晚。 

绝大部分食用海草可分为三类 :棕海 

草、绿海草及红海草。前者类似日本人常 

吃的「Wakame」海菜,生长于北极圈较 

为温暖的海域,为日式料理常见的食材。 

绿海草有时称为海白菜,包括布瑞顿 

(Breton) 昆布及皇家 (Royal) 昆布等多个 

种类。日式料理常用昆布为汤品或沙拉增 

添味道,此一独到风味日本人称为「鲜味 

(Umami)」或「第五味」。 

相较之下,红海草较甜,常烘干食用, 

口感酥脆。生长于大西洋及太平洋北岸的 

品种「Dulse」品质一流,冰岛人习惯和着 

玉米饼,或沾一大层奶油温温的吃,也算 

物尽其用了。 

66 | TASTING KITCHEN | september 2013 september 2013 | TASTING KITCHEN | 67

68 


法国制造 

French Connection 

Brittany Sea Urchin 布列塔尼海胆 

ThIs sea urchIn’s journey begins in the cool waters around 

a peninsula jutting off the coast of Brittany, France. The 

commune of Quiberon is famous not only for urchins, but also 

as the spiritual home of a frequently overlooked contribution 

to world cuisine: the tinned sardine. In the early 19 th century, 

Quiberon was the home of a brilliant French chemist called 

Nicolas Appert, who revolutionized the way the world eats 

with his technique of preserving fish by placing it in boiled, 

airtight tins. 

By contrast, the local method of collecting urchins is still 

decidedly low-tech. With its white shell beaches, salty sea 

breezes and charming ancient fishing villages, Quiberon in the 

summer months is a laid-back seaside resort. But come winter, 

as the sea breezes turn to icy winds straight off the Bay of 

Biscay, the hardy Quiberonnais foot fishermen get to work. 

October to April is sea urchin season, and a select few 

local fishermen are permitted to collect, by hand, a strictly 

enforced quota of the creatures. Licenses are difficult to 

obtain and easy to lose. Few fishermen risk their livelihood 

for the sake of a few extra Euros. 

There is a marvelous French expression that references 

the sea urchin’s sharp defensive spines and is used to describe 

someone who is tight-fisted with his money: “Il a des oursins 

dans les poches!” (He has urchins in his pockets!) Such dining 

companions are best avoided if you wish to order Brittany 

sea urchins. With a distinctively tangy yet smooth flavor 

like nothing else from the sea, they continue to command a 

handsome fee everywhere they go. 

法国布列塔尼沿岸某处突出半岛邻近的 

冷水海域,是为此种海胆旅程的起点。 

Quiberon 行政区有名的不仅是海胆,也 

是罐装沙丁鱼的故乡,虽鲜为人所知,却 

是全球餐饮文化中不可或缺的要角之一。 

十九世纪曾居住於 Quiberon 的聪明法国化 

学家 Nicolas Appert 首创以煮沸的密闭锡 

罐保存鱼肉,为世界饮食历史带来革命性 

的影响。 

相较之下,当地采集海胆的方式仍然 

相当原始。优美的白沙滩、咸味海风及怀 

古风情的渔村景致,让 Quiberon 在夏日时 

光里成为悠闲的海边度假圣地。但时序进 

入冬天,比斯开湾吹来的海风冰寒彻骨, 

却正是当地吃苦耐劳的渔夫们开始工作的 

时节。 

十月到四月为海胆产季,仅有少数获 

准的渔夫得以用双手采集为数有限的海胆。 

采集证照不仅难以取得,一不小心更会失 

去采集资格,少有渔夫愿意为了多赚那几 

块钱卖命下海。 

法文中有句话以海胆尖锐的刺骨为譬 

喻,用以形容人一毛不拔可说是活灵活现 : 

「Il a des oursins dans les poches!( 他口袋 

中有海胆 )」,要找这种人去餐厅大啖布列 

塔尼海胆的话,可要三思。海胆味道浓呛 

却又滑顺,找不到其他海鲜与之比拟,不 

管在哪品尝可都所费不赀。 


吓人外表极致美味 

Armed and Delicious 

Scorpion Fish 天蝎鱼 

The name ITself inspires trepidation – is it really worth 

experimenting with the flesh of such a creature for the sake 

of an original seafood experience? Fiercely orange, slimy, and 

armed with savage-looking teeth and venom-covered spikes, 

its appearance isn’t exactly welcoming. The roe and internal 

organs are deadly poisonous. Some species in the scorpion 

fish family have been uninvitingly described as the “world’s 

deadliest” fish. Hardly a gourmet’s delight. 

But to dismiss the scorpion fish too quickly is to miss the 

point that in this case, the end may in fact justify the means. 

Caught by line from the depths of tropical or temperate 

seas, particularly off the coasts of Eastern Australia and 

Spain, its finely-grained white flesh is tender and juicy, 

not too oily and not too dry. It is firm and robust enough 

to make an excellent ingredient in just about any dish, 

holding up particularly well in pasta, but doing just as nicely 

pan-fried. Scorpion fish is flavorsome and slightly sweet, 

not unlike grouper, never so brash as to overpower more 

delicate ingredients. In short, a scorpion fish tastes a lot more 

welcoming than it looks, and it’s the perfect fish for a chef to 

use to demonstrate his or her skills. 

So don’t let the spikes scare you away. Or if you do 

decide to play it safe and toss the scorpion fish into the toochallenging 

basket, just make sure you’re wearing protective 

gloves. 

天蝎鱼一如其名,让人听来心生畏惧,真有 

需要为了尝鲜拿这种高难度的鱼类来开刀 

吗?天蝎鱼的橘红色泽挑衅意味十足,加上 

黏滑的身躯、血盆大口内的锋利牙齿以及含 

有剧毒的尖刺,确实叫人退步三舍。天蝎鱼 

卵及内脏满是致命剧毒,同科鱼类下更有数 

种名列「全球最致命」排行榜,再怎么想都 

难以和老饕的盘中美味划上等号。 

但可别急着下定论,说不定最后会出 

现意想不到的结果。 

天蝎鱼一般以延绳捕捞,它们栖息在 

东澳及西班牙沿海热带或温热的深海海域, 

白色的鱼肉纹理细致、软嫩多汁,不油不柴、 

肥瘦间隔得宜。天蝎鱼质地扎实、风味独具, 

搭配各式料理都有水准以上的表现,除了 

拌制意大利面外,香煎处理也非常美味。 

天蝎鱼味道丰富、带些许甜味,与石斑一 

样能与他种细嫩食材调和,交汇彼此。总 

的来说,天蝎鱼虽然外表吓人,但吃来让 

人惊艳,对于欲大展身手的大厨们,也是 

能一显高超技巧的绝佳食材。 

所以可别让满身尖刺给吓跑了!或真 

觉得难度太高、只求安全过关的话,拿走 

天蝎鱼的时候可千万记得戴着手套,别受 

伤了。 


menu 

72 

Dining out on Mondays is usually a lowkey 

affair – that is, unless you are booked 

to enjoy dinner at Mirror Restaurant with 

a group of Asia’s best chefs and gourmet 

delicacy importers. For this dinner, TK teamed 

up with Classic Fine Foods to set Mirror’s 

head chef, Jeremy Biasiol, a unique challenge: 

to create an original menu using some of 

the ocean’s most treasured offerings. Did 

he rise to the challenge? See for yourself. 

创意海鲜盛宴 

mirror menu 

周一出门用餐的客人通常较为低调,但若是和 

亚洲一流大厨及美食进口商在「Mirror」法式 

餐厅有约,可就另当别论了。由 TK 和顶级食材 

代理商「Classic Fine Foods」共同举办的主厨 

晚宴,给了「Mirror」行政主厨 Jeremy Biasiol 

一道难题 :运用海中珍馐打造一系列原创菜 

色。主厨表现如何,就留待看倌们自行评判了。 

| t A stiNG KitcheN | september 2013 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Amuse-bouche 开胃小点 

Tarbouriech Oysters with Orange and Lemon Citrus Emulsion 

Tarbouriech 生蚝佐香橙及柠檬柑橘乳沫 

Appetizers 开胃前菜 

Obsiblue Three Ways 

Obsiblue 蓝虾三吃 

Marinated and raw, with caviar 

调味生蓝虾佐鱼子酱 

In a cocktail, revisited Mirror style 

经典 Mirror 鸡尾酒虾 

Pan seared with mushrooms and sauce from the head 

虾头酱汁及蘑菇煎烧蓝虾 

Cauliflower Royal 

皇家白花菜 

Cauliflower puree, Quiberon sea urchins and seaweed 

白花菜茸、Quiberon 海胆及海草 

Fish course 鲜鱼套餐 

Red Brittany Spiny Lobster 

布列塔尼红龙虾 

Served with eggplant caviar, tomato confit, 

sauce au Comté, and goose barnacles 

佐圆茄鱼子酱、油封蕃茄、法式康提酱及鹅颈藤壶 

Scorpion Fish 

天蝎鱼 

Stuffed and oven roasted with fennel, onions, 

potatoes and saffron-coconut sauce 

镶料佐茴香、洋葱、马铃薯及蕃红花 - 椰子酱香烤 

Dessert 甜点 

Mirror Chocolate and Raspberries Pie with Seaweed Chantilly 

Mirror 特制巧克力及覆盆子派佐海草奶油霜 

 

 

 

 

 

 

september 2013 | t A stiNG KitcheN | 73

presented by 

闪烁的星光 

shooting stars 

Perrier-Jouët’s Belle Epoque Champagnes pair beautifully 

with Chef Pino Lavarra’s creative caviar menu. 

Do caviar anD champagne make the best 

gourmet match ever? When the Champagne is 

Perrier-Jouët’s Belle Epoque and Tosca Director 

Pino Lavarra is preparing the caviar, the answer 

is a yes and an anticipatory sigh of pleasure: it’s 

a match made in heaven. 

At the Ritz-Carlton Hong Kong’s Tosca, 

Chef Pino’s latest degustation menu showcases 

a selection of the kings of caviar, paired with 

Perrier-Jouët’s Belle Epoque 2004 and Belle 

Epoque Rosé 2004 Champagnes. 

The flavors of Chef Pino’s dishes progress 

from mild and delicate to powerful and savory 

and they are accompanied by the Belle Epoque 

Champagnes from first course to last. 

The 2004 Belle Epoque wines exhibit all 

the qualities for which the label is famous: a 

floral bouquet, elegant structure, hints of fruit, 

and crystal-clear expression of the Perrier-Jouët 

style. Cellar Master Hervé Deschamps calls it a 

“multi-sensorial” style of wine. 

“When you eat caviar something special is 

happening, so you want the same concept for 

the wine,” says Tosca Manager Francesco Del 

Gaudio. “Champagne is usually used to open a 

meal, but this level of Champagne is amazing 

to drink with the whole dinner. Caviar and 

Champagne is the best match ever.” 

74 

| TASTING KITCHEN | july 2013 

鱼子酱与香槟是否真为天生一对?若是 

「巴黎之花」的「花漾年华」香槟加上 

「Tosca」意大利餐厅总监洛卫华悉心准备 

的鱼子酱,答案绝对是百分之百肯定。顶 

级餐酒美馔,定让饕客惊呼两者为「天作 

之合」。 

香港丽思卡尔顿酒店「Tosca」意大 

利餐厅总监洛卫华推出全新菜单,一展四 

款帝王级鱼子酱的极致美味,搭配精选「巴 

黎之花」的「花漾年华 2004 年份香槟」 

及「花漾年华 2004 年玫瑰香槟」享用。 

洛卫华主厨的全套菜色口味由淡转 

浓,从细致温和到浓郁美味, 从开胃菜到 

最后一道都能搭配「花漾年华」香槟享用, 

相得益彰。 

从细致花香、优雅的酒体结构、水果 

韵味到「巴黎之花」晶莹剔透的质感,所 

有与众不同之处都在这款 2004 年「花漾 

年华」香槟上展露无遗,酿酒大师 Hervé 

Deschamps 甚至以「多重感官飨宴」来 

形容,独特风格可见一斑。 

「Tosca」餐厅经理Francesco Del 

Gaudio 说道 :「品尝鱼子酱时,味蕾出现 

奇妙的美味变化,选用的酒也希望能有此 

一魔力。香槟常用来当开胃酒享用,但若 

是「花漾年华」此种顶级香槟,整顿晚宴 

下来都是最佳配角。鱼子酱和香槟的搭配, 

真可说是无懈可击。」

presented by 

perrier-Jouët 

With this classic dish, Chef Pino uses mild-flavored white sturgeon caviar. The light, subtle flavors of 

the dish find their perfect complement in the crystal-clear floral notes of the Belle Epoque 2004. The 

Chardonnay in Perrier-Jouët’s blend provides a mineral backbone; Pinot Noir adds complexity; and 

the effervescent delicacy of the Champagne makes this an ideal pairing. 

在这道经典意大利料理中,洛卫华使用较为温和的白鲟鱼鱼子酱,淡雅细致的味道与 2004 年「花漾 

年华」香槟的清澈花香相辅相成。「巴黎之花」这款混酿美酒中以夏多内葡萄的矿物质风味为基底, 

另用黑皮诺增添了丰富层次。香槟令人雀跃的美味口感,与鱼子酱可说是天生绝配。 

Potatoes Focaccia with Mimosa Egg 

意大利马铃薯香草面包,酿鸡蛋 

White Sturgeon Caviar, Gold Leaves and Lemon Sour Cream 

White Sturgeon 鱼子酱,金叶和柠檬酸奶 

TrAdITIoN: WHITE STurGEoN 

传统鱼子酱 : 白鲟鱼 

76 

| TASTING KITCHEN | july 2013 

Red prawns, caviar, sea tiramisu and 

sea scallops are combined to create an 

explosion of flavor in Sea Tiramisu, Chef 

Pino’s signature dish. “The prawns are 

Italian,” he says, “and with the Adriatic 

sturgeon, this dish takes us back to 

Italy.” The salty sea flavors are balanced 

by the sparkling citrus notes of the Belle 

Epoque Champagne, and the golden 

wine and red-accented dish make for 

an elegant pair. 

主厨的招牌菜食材有红虾、鱼子酱、海 

鲜提拉米苏及海扇贝,所有美味精华于 

味蕾一次爆发,让人大呼过瘾。「红虾 

是从意大利进口的,加上意大利亚得里 

亚海鲟鱼鱼子酱,让料理充满浓浓的意 

式风情。」「花漾年华」香槟的柑橘气息 

正好调和海鲜的咸味,亮金色泽的香槟 

加上红艳诱人的海鲜,搭配的优雅大器, 

魅力凡人无法挡。 

Sea Tiramisu: Mediterranean 

Red Prawns Carpaccio with Rice Crackers 

地中海生红虾薄片配米饼 

Da Vinci Adriatic Caviar and Sea Foam 

Da Vinci Adriatic 鱼子酱和海洋泡沫 

dA VINCI: AdrIATIC STurGEoN 

dA VINCI AdrIATIC 鱼子酱 - 亚得里亚海鲟鱼

The almond, herbs and sea aromas of this pasta salad blend alluringly 

with the delicate, peonies and red fruits bouquet of the Belle Epoque Rosé 

2004. The almond cream plays sweet counterpoint to the caviar and the 

Champagne helps light up all the wonderful flavors that are layered above 

the spaghetti base. “It’s a perfect marriage,” says Chef Pino. 

意大利面沙拉的杏仁、草本及海洋风味,佐以「花漾年华 2004 年玫瑰香槟」, 

牡丹及鲜红水果交错的细腻韵致,十分诱人。杏仁奶油的香甜与鱼子酱的 

滋味相互调和,香槟入口更让意大利面的独特口感与滋味更上一层楼,真 

的就像洛卫华所说的 :「配的恰恰好。」 

Warm Spaghetti with Caviar de Venise, 

Chives and Seaweed 

Venise 鱼子酱配暖意大利面, 

细香葱和海藻 

CAVIAr dE VENISE: SIbErIAN STurGEoN 

VENISE 鱼子酱 – 西伯利亚鲟鱼 

For this dish, Chef Pino renders autumn radishes with a Champagne and 

caviar sauce. “The radish is quite sweet so it balances well with the briny 

taste of the caviar, and it goes perfectly with the poached lobster,” he 

says. The nutty, buttery flavor of the Russian caviar is pierced by the 

light acidity of the Belle Epoque Rosé 2004, and the flavors of dish and 

Champagne alike linger silkily on the palate. 

使用上好的秋季山萝卜,佐以香槟及鱼子酱汁调味,洛卫华介绍「山萝卜 

味道香甜,正可中和鱼子酱的咸味,也是水煮龙虾的最佳拍档。」俄罗斯 

鲟鱼的核果味及奶香在「花漾年华 2004 年玫瑰香槟」的细微酸度衬托下, 

显得恰到好处不腻口。餐点与香槟交融的美妙滋味如丝般柔顺,萦绕于味 

蕾上,久久不散。 

Poached Lobster Tail with Chervil Root Puree 

水煮龙虾尾,山萝卜蓉 

Baby Salad Leaves and Royal Oscietra Caviar 

Sauce 

皇家奥赛佳鱼子酱和沙拉 

oSCIETrA royAl: ruSSIAN STurGEoN 

皇家奥赛佳鱼子酱 – 俄罗斯鲟鱼 

Available until 23 December. 

鱼子酱套餐供应至12月23日。 

presented by 

perrier-Jouët 

july 2013 | TASTING KITCHEN | 79

kitchen conversations 

天马行空海味鲜 

fishy business 

Dot Cod Executive Chef Arron Rhodes searches the 

globe for the best seafood, and has plenty of interesting 

ideas about what to do with it when he finds it. 

80 

Pan-roasted arctic char, white 

dune asparagus, cauliflower, peas 

and mint, tendrils and quinoa 

烤北极鲑鱼,白芦笋,花椰菜, 

豌豆,薄荷,卷须,藜麦 


Two recTangles of juicy pink fish with 

crispy skin lie on a mattress of freshly shelled 

peas and broad beans. Crisp white asparagus 

tips, decorated with tendrils of slender 

pea shoots, stand like sentries on the plate. 

Baby beetroot leaves add color. “This is 

Arctic char,” says DotCod Executive Chef 

Arron Rhodes. “The texture and flavor is 

somewhere between salmon and trout, 

with a little taste of white fish in there too. 

I sourced this char from a small fishing village 

on a little outcrop of islands just off the 

east coast of Norway. As soon as the fishermen 

catch it, it’s on a plane to us, so it’s 

really fresh.” 

Chef Arron is very particular about the 

fish he serves. “Always buy a fish whole,” 

he says. “Then you can see that the gills are 

pink, the eyes are clear and the skin is shiny. 

And it should smell fresh too.” He checks all 

the fish that comes into the restaurant and 

if it doesn’t pass his test, it won’t be on the 

menu that day. “I’m very strict about that,” 

he laughs, “but I am flexible about what I 

buy too. If I see something really lovely and 

fresh, I will buy it and offer it to the guests 

that day. I like to surprise them.” 

Arron has fun in his kitchen. He loves 

to experiment with new flavors and dishes 

which he brings to the guests as a surprise 

course. “I call them ‘chef snacks,’” he says. 

“We have a range of special miniature dishes 

and glasses to serve them in, so they look 

really good. It’s a great way to see how customers 

respond to the new ideas I have.” 

He describes a fish lollipop he invented, 

mixing tuna with white chocolate and rolling 

两块方整多汁、呈粉红光泽的鱼肉外皮酥 

脆,平铺于新鲜去壳的豌豆及蚕豆上。清 

脆白透的芦笋尖从细嫩豆芽的盘根错节中 

昂然立起,就像站哨的卫兵一般,接着再 

放上一些幼甜菜根叶增添色泽。 Dot Cod 

行政总厨 Arron Rhodes 表示 :「这是北极鲑 

鱼,口感和滋味介于鲑鱼和鳟鱼之间,还 

带着些许白鱼的味道。这鱼是我从挪威东 

海岸的一个离海小岛渔村找来的,鱼被捕 

获后立即空运直送,新鲜有保证。」 

对于鱼类料理,总厨有特别的坚持, 

他强调 :「一定要整条鱼买下来,才能看到 

鱼鳃是否粉嫩、眼睛够不够清澈,并观察 

鱼皮的亮泽程度,当然闻起来也一定要新 

鲜才行。」每条送到餐厅的鱼他都会从头到 

尾检查一番,未能通过他的法眼,自然也 

上不了当日菜单。他笑着说 :「对新鲜我非 

常有要求,至于要进什么种类的鱼我倒是 

很乐意尝试。看到诱人且新鲜的食材我就 

会买,当天就端上桌当成给客人的惊喜。」 

Arron 在厨房总能自得其乐,喜欢试验 

新的味道,出来的成果端上桌每每让客人大 

呼惊喜。他透露:「我都叫这些菜是总厨小点, 

装盛于我们餐厅特别准备的各式缩小版杯盘 

中,非常别致,卖相极佳,也可以当作是为 

我的创意料理试水温,看看客人反应如何。」 

他以独门的鲜鱼棒棒糖为例,混搭鲔鱼及白 

巧克力后,用跳跳糖卷起来,入口后绽放有 

如火花般的口感,层次非常丰富。巧克力混 

搭鱼肉乍听很大胆,要能搭配的恰到好处也 

有一定难度,不过总厨可不这么认为 :「巧 

克力搭配鱼早就不那么稀奇了。我喜欢不断 

尝试,手上最新的目标是混搭爪哇和尼泊尔 

两地独特的香料,我用的尼泊尔胡椒带有葡 

萄柚的气味。鱼肉质地细嫩,因此要注意味 

道绝对不能过重,只需一点柚香提味,就有 

画龙点睛之效。」

kitchen conversations 

Chocolate Garden 

巧克力花园 

the resulting creation in popping candy to 

produce a fireworks effect in the mouth. 

Chocolate and fish may seem a bold and perhaps 

excessively challenging combination, 

but Rhodes is quick to disagree: “Chocolate 

with fish isn’t that unusual any more. I like 

to keep experimenting. At the moment I am 

working with exciting spices from Java and 

Nepal. The Nepalese pepper we use has a 

scent of grapefruit. Flavors must not be too 

heavy as fish is delicate – just a little aromatic 

kick, to lift it a bit.” 

Light flavors are orchestrated to create 

a delicious crab appetizer: miniature sweet 

tomatoes play counterpoint to quenelles 

of crab meat. Salty samphire spears (also 

known as sea asparagus) stand in pools of 

avocado puree. Cubes of tart apple jelly and 

a foamy mound of apple mousse add fresh 

orchard aromas. In the centre of the plate, 

resting on a sesame crumble, is a tiny deepfried 

Japanese river crab. “I wanted the plate 

to look like the crab was crawling on sand,” 

says Arron. “You can pick the crab up and 

just eat it whole – like a crispy snack.” 

Fish can vary within a species, depending 

on where they live. This presents a challenge 

for chefs. Sea temperature, currents, the 

salinity and minerality of the water all have an 

82 


impact on the texture and flavor of the flesh. 

Salmon from the waters around Alaska, or the 

North of Scotland, live in rough cold waters 

and have to swim hard to survive. They are 

lean and fit as a result, with firmer meat. New 

Zealand King salmon has a slightly easier life 

– and a bigger belly to match. “We use salmon 

from Tasmania at Dot Cod,” says Arron. “You 

need to take into account how you want to 

cook and serve it. This particular salmon was 

the juiciest and softest and looked the best 

on a plate.” Arron loves shopping around for 

the best the seas can produce. “We are just 

trying some prawns from Madagascar,” he 

says with great excitement. “Prawns are everywhere 

– but I want to find the best. These 

ones are really sweet and delicious – I can’t 

wait to introduce them on the menu. I’m 

always keen to try new suppliers. It’s a competitive 

business and new sources appear all 

the time.” 

Choosing the right fish is just the first 

step to a great meal. Chef Arron elaborates: 

“It’s about understanding the individual 

ingredients in a dish – creating something 

with distinctive flavor and beautiful presentation. 

If I create a dish that someone 

remembers when they leave the restaurant 

– then my job is done.” 

Miniature marzipan tomatoes, mushrooms and 

carrots nestle in delicious chocolate soil made from 

roasted raw cocoa beans. Attention to detail is 

amazing: Chef Rhodes has painted the underside 

of the mushroom with coffee to stain it darker, 

and uses the stamen of a tiny edible blue flower 

to form the stalk of the tomato. Fresh mint leaves 

have a faint hint of chocolate. “It’s a specially 

grown chocolate mint,” explains Rhodes. “If you 

put a little chocolate into the plant feed, it gets 

absorbed by the roots and makes the leaves taste 

a bit chocolaty. It’s the perfect garnish for this dish.” 

小巧的蕃茄、蘑菇及红萝卜糕饼置身于炙烤生可 

可豆做成的巧克力糊中,雕琢精细、令人赞叹: 

蘑菇底层涂咖啡上色,让颜色稍暗,并取一小型 

蓝色花朵的雄蕊作为蕃茄的果柄。新鲜薄荷叶散 

发着一丝巧克力的气息,Arron说明:「这是特 

别培育的巧克力薄荷,把少许巧克力混入肥料 

中,渐渐可由根部吸收,薄荷叶尝起来会带点 

巧克力香,用来装饰这道菜再完美不过了。」 

美味的蟹肉开胃菜则由清爽的食材组 

合而成 :小巧甜蕃茄与蟹肉丸相映成趣, 

咸味珊瑚草叶 ( 或称海芦笋 ) 则立于酪梨 

果泥中, 一颗颗略酸的苹果冻及绵密、形 

状有如小丘的苹果慕斯则增添些许水果芳 

香,令人神清气爽。再往盘中一看,只见 

一只小型酥炸日本河蟹安坐于芝麻碎末上。 

Arron 解释 :「希望看起来就像螃蟹在沙中 

爬动一般,顺手一抓可以整只入口,如同 

吃香脆零食一样简单。」 

同一种类的鱼因为栖息地不同会出现 

些微差距,对厨师来说可是一大挑战。海 

中温度、洋流、咸度及矿物质含量不同, 

均会影响鱼肉的口感及味道。像是来自阿 

拉斯加邻海或苏格兰北部等极冷海域的鲑 

鱼,为了生存需要特别奋力游动,因此肉 

质偏瘦、较为扎实,吃起来稍微硬一些。 

纽西兰国王鲑鱼相对之下生活较为惬意, 

自然鱼肚也大多了。总厨谈到自家餐厅说 : 

「我们用的是塔斯马尼亚产的鲑鱼,怎样烹 

煮、如何上菜都要先在脑中沙盘推演。这 

种鱼很特别,肉汁最多、吃起来也最软嫩, 

摆盘特别漂亮。」Arron 钟情于海中各式食 

材,遇到最棒的绝不放过。他语带兴奋表 

示:「明虾到处都有,但我只要品质最好的。 

手头上现有的是马达加斯加进口的明虾, 

又甜又好吃,真的等不及要放到菜单上了。 

我总喜欢开发新的供应商,市场竞争激烈, 

永远都会有新的供货来源。」 

选对鱼还只是做好菜的第一步而已。 

Arron 特别强调 :「对每道菜里面的各种食材 

都要了若指掌,做出风味独树一格、摆盘精 

美的佳肴。若有客人离开餐厅后还对我的料 

理念念不忘的话,就代表我成功了。」 

Crab salad, brioche crouton, 

apple jelly, river crab, avocado 

crème, and homemade 

sun-blushed tomatoes 

新鲜蟹沙拉,配以油煎法国 

香脆面包粒,苹果果冻, 

牛油果奶油及秘制鲜红番茄 


天作之合 

classic match 

Cloudy Bay’s 2013 Sauvignon Blanc pairs 

perfectly with four fresh seafood dishes 

– crab, lobster, oysters and abalone – 

prepared by four great Hong Kong chefs. 

84 


PERFECTPAIRINGS 

p r e s e n t e d b y c l o u d y b a y 


86 


Once a landscape dOminated by cattle 

and sheep farms, during the past forty 

years the Wairau Valley in Marlborough has 

become known for a more luxurious agricultural 

product: wine grapes. Cloudy Bay, one 

of New Zealand’s most storied wine companies, 

has been growing grapes and making 

wine on this fertile alluvial plain since early 

in the region’s development. The company 

takes its name from a nearby beach that was 

christened Cloudy Bay in 1770 by British 

explorer Captain Cook. In a visual tribute 

to the dramatic glacial ranges that provide 

the valley with its free draining, mineral-rich 

soils, Cloudy Bay features Mount Riley, one 

of the highest peaks in the region, on its distinctive 

wine bottle labels. 

The company’s grape production is 

spread across four estate vineyards, including 

the original Cloudy Bay Estate on Jackson 

Road and five local vineyards. Sauvignon 

Blanc, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are the 

纽西兰马尔堡(Marlborough) 的怀劳谷 

(Wairau Valley) 得天独厚,大片好山好水过 

往曾是牧牛及绵羊的天下,最近 40 年则成 

为高附加价值的农产品「酿酒葡萄」的产 

地。「云雾之湾 (Cloudy Bay)」作为首批踏 

足这片肥沃冲积土地的酿酒商,多年来栽 

种葡萄及酿酒,早已成为纽西兰最负盛名 

的酒庄之一。 1770 年英国探险家库克船长 

(Captain Cook) 初来此地,将邻近海滩称为 

「云雾之湾」,酒庄后来也以此为名。拜冰 

河山脊冲刷地形所赐,河谷土壤排水良好, 

富含矿物质,「云雾之湾」所产葡萄酒酒标 

上亦可见该区最高的莱利山图腾,特色鲜 

明。 

「云雾之湾」酒庄共有四座葡萄庄园, 

包括杰克森大道上的创始庄园,以及其他 

五处据点。庄园主要种植白苏维翁、夏多 

chief varieties grown, while lesser quantities 

of Gewürztraminer, Riesling and Pinot Gris 

are also produced. “With thirty years of grape 

growing and winemaking experience, Cloudy 

Bay has been able to focus on the vineyards 

and sub-regions that produce complex flavors 

and consistent quality,” says Cloudy Bay 

winemaker Nick Lane. This “blending of the 

highest quality” – which involves leaving out 

batches of wine that do not suit the company’s 

style – is crucial to the success of Cloudy 

Bay’s signature Sauvignon Blanc. “Through 

the art of blending, we can now make a wine 

with genuine complexity,” says Lane. 

Sauvignon Blanc is a vigorous vine that 

grows exceptionally well in the Marlborough 

region, with its crystalline combination of 

clear, sunny skies and cool nights. “The fruit 

thrives in a cool, dry climate and produces 

intense flavors of citrus, tropical fruit and 

lifted herbaceous notes,” Lane says. That climate 

can, however, fluctuate unpredictably, 

“Through the art of blending, we can now 

make a wine with genuine complexity. 

我们不断钻研混酿的学问,现在已可酿制 

出味道繁复、质感纯正的葡萄佳酿。” 

内及黑皮诺三种葡萄,另还有少量 Gewürztraminer 

种、雷司令及灰皮诺等。「云雾 

之湾」酿酒师 Nick Lane 表示 :「酒庄累积 

三十年栽种及酿酒经验,对于葡萄园及次 

级区域栽植都相当得心应手,制作的葡萄 

酒口味繁复,品质仍能维持不坠。」所说的 

「最高品质混酿法」是去芜存菁的一个方 

法,未达酒庄标准的批次都会被淘汰,造 

就了「云雾之湾」备受好评的白苏维翁白 

酒。 Lane 说道:「我们不断钻研混酿的学问, 

现今已可酿制出味道繁复、质感纯正的葡 

萄佳酿。」 

白苏维翁种的葡萄藤茂密健壮,在天 

气晴朗、日照充足且入夜凉爽的马尔堡长 

的特别好。 Lane 自豪表示 :「干爽宜人的 

气候特别有利水果生长,柑橘香及热带水 

果味浓郁,散发草本韵味。」然而水也可覆 



particularly during the October/November 

growing season and the picking time in 

frosty April. “Timing of harvest is crucial with 

Sauvignon Blanc,” says Lane. “Approaching 

harvest, we taste the grapes every day. We’re 

looking for a combination of ripe, tropical flavors 

with underlying citrus and a zesty acidity.” 

Thanks to highly favorable weather that 

resulted in a fruit with intense flavors, 2013 

was a bumper year for Cloudy Bay grape 

growers. “Not only will we be able to enjoy 

a wine with the signature aromatics,” says 

Lane, “but also a full-bodied wine with fantastic 

palate weight.” 

On the following pages, Cloudy Bay’s 

famously crisp and focused Sauvignon 

Blanc is served with fresh crab, lobster, oysters 

and abalone, classic dishes prepared by 

four accomplished Hong Kong chefs. The 

citrus focus and mineral qualities of the Sauvignon 

Blanc and the fresh salty sweetness 

of the seafood make for a classic match. 

舟,十月 / 十一月栽植季及采收时期-结 

霜的四月气候难以预测,变动极大。「白 

苏维翁的采收季是决定味道的关键时期, 

随采收脚步越来越近,我们几乎每天都要 

品尝葡萄的味道,严格挑选蕴含柑橘及酸 

味,带有热带气息的熟成葡萄。」 

2013 年天公做美,经年好天气孕育了 

气味浓郁的葡萄。 2013 年酒庄葡萄大为丰 

收,Lane 强调 :「葡萄酒散发招牌迷人香 

气之外,酒体也相当浓厚,入口质感极佳, 

口齿留香。」 

接下来香港四大名厨将分别使出拿手 

绝活,搭配「云雾之湾」白苏维翁白酒著 

名的舒爽及浓醇口感,端出鲜美螃蟹、龙虾、 

生蚝及鲍鱼等经典美味。白苏维翁细致的 

柑橘香及矿物质味和海鲜咸甜适中的鲜味 

相遇时,岂是绝配两字足以形容。 




Salt-Roasted French Crab 

盐焗法国新鲜面包蟹 

Prince Restaurant 王子饭店 

Executive Chef Wong Kin Yee 

厨部主管黄健仪 

When the lid of Executive Chef Wong’s 

crab casserole is lifted, an irresistible 

aroma rises from the salt-encrusted crustacean’s 

succulent meat. Sight and scent 

promise moist and intensely flavorful crab 

meat, and they do not deceive. 

“We keep the crab whole, instead of 

cutting it into sections which risks allowing 

the natural flavors to escape,” says 

Chef Wong, describing the method he has 

adapted from Japanese cuisine. “This is 

unusual in Chinese cooking but it is also 

the reason why our crab is renowned for 

its pureness and intensity.” 

As the perfect pairing for Prince’s star 

dish, Chef Wong selects Cloudy Bay Sauvignon 

Blanc. “It is a very suitable match,” 

he says, “The wine has freshness and a 

hint of sweetness that soften the saltiness 

of the crab.” 

厨部主管黄健仪特制的全蟹料理热腾腾上 

桌。掀开砂锅,只见裹在厚厚盐层里的螃 

蟹肉汁满溢,散发诱人香气。色香俱全, 

味道自然也无可挑剔,温润多汁、层次相 

当丰富。 

为了充分展现螃蟹的美味,总厨特别向 

日式料理取经 :「我们选择原只螃蟹烹制, 

而非切分几等份,就是希望保留原味不流 

失。这样做中国菜很罕见,但也因为如此, 

我们的螃蟹味道鲜纯,后劲十足,大受好 

评。」 

为了衬托螃蟹美味,黄健仪精选云雾之 

湾酒庄的白苏维翁为餐酒搭配。他强调:「白 

苏维翁口感清爽且带有些许香甜,正好调 

和螃蟹的咸味,两者简直是天作之合。」 

Edmon lEong 


Edmon lEong 

Lobster Basil Ravioli 

龙虾罗勒意大利云吞 

Fish Bar at JW marriott Hotel Hong Kong 香港JW万豪酒店Fish Bar 

Fish Bar guests were clamoring for a 

seafood pasta dish and Executive Chef 

Stephen doe responded by creating a hit: 

lobster Basil Ravioli, Fennel Puree and 

Chips, with lobster Sauce. Keeping things 

simple to bring out the lobster’s natural 

flavor, he lightly blanches and sautés 

the meat with olive oil and herbs before 

folding it into the ravioli with basil and a 

taste of mascarpone cheese. The bite of 

the pasta shell delays the peak pleasure 

for just a moment – then the rich lobster 

flavor floods wonderfully out into your 

mouth. 

“After tasting the Cloudy Bay 2013 Sauvignon 

Blanc, we incorporated fennel with 

a puree and chips garnish, to complement 

the fennel flavor within the vintage,” 

explains Chef doe. “I think it pairs very 

well because it won’t overpower or complicate 

the wine.” 

为了让每个光临 Fish Bar 的客人都能大饱 

口腹之欲,一尝海鲜意大利面滋味,行政 

总厨 Stephen doe 发挥巧思,端出精心创 

作的美食「龙虾罗勒意大利云吞佐龙虾汁、 

茴香茸及薯片」。为了保留龙虾原味,总厨 

一切简单至上,虾肉稍微汆烫、以药草及 

橄榄油过煎后搭配罗勒包进意大利云吞, 

并加上些许马斯卡朋起司提味。吃这道菜 

好戏在后头,先吃云吞外皮,龙虾精华要 

一会儿才在味蕾化开,满口都是鲜甜美味。 

Stephen 说明 :「试过云雾之湾酒庄 2013 

年的白苏维翁白酒后,我们加入茴香茸和 

薯片,让餐酒相互融合。茴香让酒喝来同 

样甘醇,又不会抢味,搭配得恰到好处。」 


Executive Chef Stephen Doe 





Trilogy of Gillardeau Oysters on Ice 

法国生蚝三重奏 

oyster & Wine Bar at Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel & Towers 香港喜来登酒店蚝酒吧 

92 

Chef de Cuisine Oscar Chow 

总厨周国豪 


White wine and oysters have been a 

trusted duo since the dawn of food and 

wine pairings. But this wonderfully simple 

combination isn’t as simple as it seems: 

chefs and sommeliers enter a world of 

complexity as they fine tune matches 

between varieties of oysters and grapes. 

“gillardeau oysters have a salty and crispy 

quality with a sweet aftertaste,” says 

Chef oscar Chow, who serves them three 

ways: with cucumber and apple; with 

cauliflower puree and Imperial caviar; and 

with salmon roe and ginger salsa. 

“Cloudy Bay’s 2013 vintage is fresh 

and light and fruity, which is where some 

of the condiments enhance its qualities,” 

says Sommelier Ace lee. “And this Sauvignon 

Blanc also has a strong mineral taste 

– that is why the minerals in the oysters 

blend so well with this wine.” 

从人们开始讲究餐酒搭配起,白酒和生蚝 

就是最佳拍档。看似简单,里头其实是大 

有学问 :因应生蚝及葡萄种类的不同,搭 

配也需不时微调,大大考验厨师和侍酒师 

的功力。谈及法国 gillardeau 生蚝,总厨 

周国豪形容 :「口感爽脆带咸,后味则有丝 

鲜甜。」他以三吃展现生蚝美味 :佐小黄瓜 

及苹果、佐白花菜茸及 Imperial 鱼子酱, 

及搭配鲑鱼卵及姜味莎莎酱。 

蚝酒吧首席侍酒师李志伦解释 :「2013 

年的酒清爽、淡雅并带有果味,在部分佐 

料衬托下更别有一番风味。另外,白苏维 

翁也有浓郁的矿物质劲道,无怪乎与生蚝 

的矿物质味搭的完美无瑕。」 

Edmon lEong 


Edmon lEong 

Braised Abalone 

蚝王扣澳州三头鲜鲍 

IFC lei garden Restaurant 中环利苑 

lei garden, established four decades ago, has become synonymous with both tradition 

and innovation and has created over a thousand dishes that have moved in and out of 

its repertoire through the years. From this impressive list, the famed Braised Abalone has 

been a consistent favorite with the restaurant’s many guests. 

While the abalone is normally paired with a rich white wine to harmonize with the 

dish’s powerfully aromatic sauce, lei garden has broken with tradition and adapted the 

recipe to create a less concentrated jus for a lighter and fresher experience. 

With this in mind, lei garden found in Cloudy Bay’s 2013 Sauvignon Blanc a natural 

and delicate pairing that marries the vintage’s citrus notes with this refreshing take on its 

beloved seafood classic. 

已有四十年历史的中环利苑向来是传统及创新融合的代名词,多年来匠心独具的创作菜色 

更已超过千道。不可胜数的招牌菜之中,又以蚝王扣澳州三头鲜鲍特别受到青睐,为许多 

忠实客户的首选。 

因鲍鱼搭配味道鲜明的酱汁,餐酒常选用浓郁的白酒一同上桌。但利苑不走传统老路, 

改良菜单烹制较为清淡的酱汁,让鲍鱼吃来更为鲜美清爽。 

利苑也看上「云雾之湾酒庄 2013 年白苏维翁白酒」带着柑橘香气的雅致味道,与这道 

清爽版的经典菜色一起享用,再适合不过。 




tasting tasting notes 

notes 

美食外交 

culinary diplomacy 

Lan Kwai Fong’s Mayta restaurant flies the flag for New Peruvian Cuisine 

“I see thIs restaurant as a culinary 

embassy,” says Executive Chef Jaime 

Pesaque of restaurant Mayta. “Peru is an 

important country with diverse ingredients 

and strong influences from abroad.” 

European, African, and Asian settlers 

have all influenced the Peruvian cooking 

style. In combination with a range of 

unique native ingredients, these multiple 

intertwined culinary traditions make for 

an excitingly varied and flavorful cuisine. 

In recent years, international foodies have 

discovered Peru and, as Peruvian restaurants 

have opened up across the globe and top 

chefs raid the Peruvian repertoire for new 

ideas, culinary influence is spreading in the 

other direction. 

Peru benefits from a long coastline, 

mountainous regions and deep jungle. 

Fertile soil and a range of microclimates 

yield an abundance of produce. “There 

are more than sixty different types of fruits 

in the rainforest,” says Jaime. He talks 

enthusiastically about the sweet flavor of 

the giant, fruit-eating fish that live in Peru’s 

jungle rivers. Peru is also home to more than 

3,000 varieties of potatoes, one of the world’s 

richest fisheries, and that nutrient-packed 

Andean super food, quinoa. 

The classic Peruvian dish, and one of 

the dishes that has helped Peruvian cuisine 

become a worldwide hit, is ceviche. Fresh 

raw fish is diced and steeped in a lime juice 

marinade, with thinly sliced onions, salt, 

pepper and spicy ají. Marinating produces 

a refreshing, spicy, and addictively delicious 

96 


「Mayta」行政总厨 Jaime Pesaque 自 

信满满表示 :「这间餐厅就像秘鲁的 

美食大使馆,宣扬我们丰富多元的 

食材及综合异国文化而成的饮食风 

格。」 

秘鲁当地饮食曾受欧洲、非洲 

及亚洲殖民者影响,加上国内多种 

独特食材,交织而成多元的餐饮传 

统,呈现的料理种类多变、口味非 

常丰富。秘鲁料理近年在国际食坛 

声名鹊起,成为不少老饕的新宠, 

秘鲁餐厅版图也随之拓展到世界各 

国。同时也有许多顶尖大厨发挥创 

意,改良传统秘鲁料理,影响力也 

在各地逐渐发酵。 

秘鲁海岸线极长,加上大片的山 

区及茂密丛林,天然资源得天独厚。 

农产也拜肥沃的土壤及不同地形的微气 

候所赐,非常丰富。 Jamie 就说 :「光在雨 

林就有超过 60 种以上的水果。」总厨特别 

提到栖息在丛林水域、以水果为主食的巨 

型鱼类,对其鲜甜的肉质赞不绝口。秘鲁 

国内孕育超过 3,000 多种马铃薯、鱼获量 

全球数一数二,更有来自安地斯山脉、营 

养满点的超级谷物「藜麦」。 

帮秘鲁菜在全球打响名号的经典料理 

非「ceviche( 虎之奶腌鲈鱼 )」莫属。作法 

简单,将生鱼切块、浸入莱姆汁为底的卤 

汁调味,再加上洋葱细片、盐、胡椒及「ají」 

辣酱即可。腌酱呈白色,当地称为「leche 

de tigre」,即「虎之奶」的意思,味道清新、 

呛辣,好滋味让人一口接一口。「ceviche」 

为美洲沿岸各国常见的料理,但美味程度 

却无人出秘鲁人之其右。 

Jamie 强调 :「这么多年来,ceviche 一 

直都是代表秘鲁的国民料理,不过日本人 

Arroz con Pato

Mayta Executive Mayta Chef Executive Jaime Chef Pesaque Jaime Pesaque 

white juice white called juice leche called de leche tigre – de tiger’s tigre – tiger’s different topping: different octopus topping: tentacles octopus curl tentacles atop curl vanilla. atop “I vanilla. make an “I ice make cream an ice out cream of olive out oil,” of olive oil,” 

milk. Ceviche milk. is Ceviche made in is coastal made in countries coastal countries the deep the orange deep sweet orange potato sweet orb; potato a juicy orb; a juicy says Jaime. says “We Jaime. experimented “We experimented to find a more to find a more 

throughout throughout the Americas, the Americas, but nobody but does nobody does prawn tops prawn the yellow tops the mash; yellow and mash; the flavor and the flavor savory flavor. savory I’ve flavor. sprinkled I’ve sprinkled the ice cream the ice cream 

it better than it better the Peruvians. than the Peruvians. of the deep of the purple deep potato purple is potato brightened is brightened by with by toasted with quinoa, toasted too. quinoa, It’s recognisably too. It’s recognisably a a 

“Ceviche “Ceviche has been has a staple been dish a staple in Peru dish in Peru the sharp, the spicy sharp, tiger’s spicy milk tiger’s from milk a finely from a finely suspiro – suspiro but has – more but has going more on.” going on.” 

for many, for many many, years,” many says years,” Jaime. says “The Jaime. “The chopped chopped salmon ceviche. salmon ceviche. “This dish “This uses dish uses Jaime also Jaime takes also an innovative takes an innovative approach approach 

Japanese Japanese taught us taught to cut us the to fish cut more the fish like more my like favourite my favourite ingredient ingredient of all: aji of amarillo,” all: aji amarillo,” with his Arroz with his con Arroz Pato con – Duck Pato with – Duck Rice. with Rice. 

sashimi and sashimi to eat and it quicker. to eat it Ceviche quicker. should Ceviche should continues continues Jaime, describing Jaime, describing the chilli the chilli “This is traditional “This is traditional in the north in the of Peru, north but of Peru, I but I 

be cold and be refreshing.” cold and refreshing.” 

peppers that peppers give that a particular give a particular smoky spice smoky spice changed it changed a little. it I made a little. the I made rice more the rice like more like 

At Mayta, At Jaime Mayta, has Jaime introduced has introduced a scallop a scallop to the dishes to the they dishes flavor. they “I flavor. can’t imagine “I can’t imagine paella and paella marinated and marinated the duck the confit duck and confit and 

ceviche with ceviche cape with gooseberry cape gooseberry in the blend. in the “I blend. cooking “I our cooking cuisine our without cuisine it.” without it.” breast in breast beer to in make beer it to soft make and it tender.” soft and tender.” 

have topped have this topped with this toasted with black toasted quinoa, black quinoa, Jaime loves Jaime Peru’s loves traditional Peru’s traditional ingredients ingredients The rice The is cooked rice is with cooked fragrant with cilantro fragrant cilantro 

a grain which a grain grows which high grows in the high Andes in the Andes and dishes, and but dishes, likes but to likes innovate to innovate and and choclo and – a choclo large-kernelled – a large-kernelled corn that corn was that was 

mountains mountains and which and was which once was eaten once by eaten modernize by modernize his cooking. his cooking. “It’s new “It’s Peruvian new Peruvian another popular another Incan popular grain. Incan The grain. tang The of tang of 

the Incas. the The Incas. quinoa The gives quinoa this gives ceviche this ceviche cuisine - classic, cuisine but - classic, with a but little with twist. a little Take twist. Take a cleansing a cleansing relish made relish from made olive from oil, olive red oil, red 

crispness.” crispness.” 

this Suspiro this de Suspiro Limeña de dessert Limeña – dessert I have – I have onion, salt, onion, lime salt, and lime chopped and chopped chilli cuts chilli cuts 

Jaime draws Jaime on draws Peru’s on boundless Peru’s boundless potato potato added small added pieces small of pieces toasted of pineapple toasted pineapple through the through rich meat the rich and meat creamy and rice. creamy Tiny rice. Tiny 

varieties for varieties another for dish. another “This dish. dish “This is called dish is called for acidity for and acidity texture. and Otherwise texture. Otherwise it can be it can glazed be baby glazed carrots baby lend carrots color lend and color sweetness. and sweetness. 

causa – a causa colloquial – a colloquial term for term a friend,” for a he friend,” too he sweet.” too The sweet.” suspiro The is suspiro a lake is of a dulce lake of dulce Regarding Regarding his culinary his ambassadorship, 

culinary ambassadorship, 

says. Designed says. Designed for sharing, for it sharing, couldn’t it have couldn’t have de leche de – sweet leche – caramel sweet sauce caramel pushed sauce pushed Jaime has Jaime this to has say: this “We to try say: to “We bring try many to bring many 

a better name. a better “To name. make “To it more make fun, it more we fun, through we a through soda siphon a soda to siphon aerate it to and aerate make it and make things here things to Mayta, here to so Mayta, people so can people try the can try the 

use three use different three different kinds of potato kinds of and potato add and it add fluffy. Floating it fluffy. on Floating the caramel on the base caramel is a base whole is a spectrum whole spectrum of Peruvian of Peruvian cuisine. It’s cuisine. It’s 

some interesting some interesting flavors.” A flavors.” trio of A mashed trio of mashed crisp quinoa crisp cookie, quinoa buttery cookie, with buttery a pleasing with a pleasing nice to try nice different to try different things. You things. have You fun, have fun, 

potato spheres potato come spheres in the come purple, in the yellow purple, yellow crunch. On crunch. top of On this top cookie of this is cookie a quenelle is a quenelle and you experience and you experience more.” Spoken more.” like Spoken a true like a true 

and orange and colors orange of colors a sunset. of a Each sunset. has Each a has of ice a cream of ice – cream but it’s – not but the it’s ubiquitous not the ubiquitous diplomat. diplomat. 

98 

98 

| TASTING | KITCHEN TASTING | KITCHEN september | september 2013 

2013 

让我们学会把鱼肉切的更像日式生鱼片, 

入口方便吃得更快。Ceviche 就是要够沁凉、 

清爽才好吃。」 

在「Mayta」也吃得到总厨对这道菜的 

特殊诠释-扇贝「ceviche」搭配灯笼果。 

Jamie 亲自介绍 :「我用的黑藜麦生长在安 

地斯山脉高海拔区,也曾是印加帝国人民 

的主食,放到 ceviche 上层,可以增添酥脆 

口感。」 

总厨另一道招牌菜「causa( 三色薯蓉 )」 

用的是秘鲁种类多如繁星的马铃薯。 Jamie 

进一步说明 :「causa 是我们当地对朋友的 

俗称。」用在这道大家可以一起分享的料理 

上,再适合不过。「为了增添令人玩味的 

口感、吃起来更有趣,我们总共用了三种 

不同的马铃薯。」马铃薯泥三重奏依序有紫 

色、黄色及落日的橘红色,上方个别搭配 

了不同食材 :香甜的深橘马铃薯球上环绕 

着章鱼脚、黄色薯泥上有多汁的明虾以及 

来自鲑鱼「ceviche」、鲜明呛辣的虎之奶用 

在深紫薯泥上。总厨表示 :「这道菜里面有 

我最爱的食材- aji amarillo 金黄辣椒」,所 

含的特殊熏呛辣味让他爱不释手,「真无法 

想像没有 aji amarillo 要怎么煮菜。」 

Jamie 热爱秘鲁的道地食材及料理, 

但也不忘发挥创意、端出改良版的新菜。 

「我做的是新式秘鲁菜,经典又带点创新。 

就拿Suspiro de Limeña 这道甜点来说, 

我加了小片的烤凤梨,增添些许酸度及口 

感,才不会太甜。」Suspiro 指的就是『dulce 

de leche 焦糖酱』,通常会放进苏打瓶中通 

气,增加膨松度。焦糖上有奶香绵密的藜 

麦饼,酥脆口感让人吃起来很开心,最上 

层则放上一球冰淇淋。不过可不是全拿香 

草来充数,总厨强调 :「冰淇淋是用橄榄 

油做的,多次尝试就是希望做出恰到好处 

的咸香口味。冰淇淋里面我也加了些烤藜 

麦,让人一吃就知道是 Suspiro,但层次 

更为丰富。」 

另一道料理「Arroz con Pato( 秘鲁黄 

椒烩鸭饭 )」也可以看得到总厨的巧思。 

Jamie 说 :「这是秘鲁北部的家常料理,我 

稍微做了点变化,米饭质感偏向西班牙炖 

饭,用啤酒腌渍的鸭腿和胸肉肉质更为软 

嫩。」米饭加入香气浓郁的胡荽叶及印加 

文化另一主要谷类-大型的粒状玉米「choclo」一起煮 

;另外以橄榄油、红葱、盐、 

莱姆及辣椒段熬制的佐料口感清爽,让味 

道浓郁的鸭肉及绵密的米饭吃来不油不腻, 

更加美味。蜜汁小萝卜增添甘甜,使这道 

菜色泽更为鲜艳。 

讲到「Mayta」美食外交的魅力,Jamie 

表示 :「我们想在餐厅呈现不一样的东西给 

客人,让他们品尝到全方位的秘鲁美食。 

能尝试不同的美食料理真的很棒,从中获 

得乐趣,体验更多、更丰富。」总厨说着说着, 

整个人俨如真正的外交官一样。 

Mayta 

tasting tasting notes notes 

Ceviche 

Causa 



Guincho a Galera Head Chef 

Martinho Moniz 

葡国餐厅总厨 

葡式烩海鲜锅各式美味精华一次品尝 

cataplana de marisco 

Martinho Moniz, head chef at Guincho a Galera at the 

Hotel Lisboa Macau, shares his approach to this Portuguese classic. 

Bacalhau and Black pork are icons of 

Portuguese cooking. Cataplana is one, too. 

It is a rich part of our culture. Cataplana is 

the name of the copper pot, and every family 

in Portugal has one. When closed, the pot is 

completely air-tight which allows all the flavors 

to be completely absorbed by the fish. 

The dish is originally from North Africa, 

which shows the influence of Arab culture. 

When the pot is placed on the table, it is a 

very precious moment. 

I’m a farm boy from near the sea. From 

the hospital where I was born, you can see 

the beach. I grew up in Nazaré, which is 

very famous for its big surfing waves. I love 

cooking fish and seafood. For me, cataplana 

is a symbol of home. I can remember going to 

the market with my mother to buy the fish to 

make it. It was my mother who encouraged 

me to be a chef. Whenever I cook cataplana, 

I can feel my mother with me. 

The big challenge when cooking 

cataplana in Macau is that my guests are 

passionate about how their fish is cooked. 

At home in Portugal, everything goes into 

说到葡萄牙菜,像是马介休 (bacalhau) 或黑 

猪都是极具代表性的料理,而「葡式烩海 

鲜锅 (cataplana)」也是其中不容错过的佳肴 

之一,它充分展现出我们文化丰富的一面。 

Cataplana 其实是铜锅的名称,在葡萄牙几 

乎是家家户户必备的厨具。闭阖时,利用锅 

盖与锅身的密合进行闷煮,有助鲜鱼吸收各 

式味道交融的精华。这道菜最早源自于北非, 

带有阿拉伯文化的色彩。大锅上桌时,总让 

人兴奋不已,是值得纪念的重要时刻。 

我是个农村小孩,家里靠海。我成长 

的海岸城市拿撒勒(Nazaré)是冲浪迷的 

朝圣所在。料理鱼类及海鲜都是我的最爱。 

「葡式烩海鲜锅」代表的就是我的家乡。以 

前和妈妈一同上市场买鱼、下厨的画面到 

现在都还历历在目。每次做这道菜,都感 

觉妈妈就在我身旁。 

在葡萄牙,习惯一次把所有食材通通 

放进锅里煮,有时鱼肉会有点过老,但我 

个人不太在意,倒还蛮喜欢的。但在澳门 

可就不是这么一回事,当地饕客对于鱼肉 

的处理非常敏锐,所以不管是龙虾、蛤蛎 

或鱼类等任何新鲜食材,我都会抓好准确 

的烹煮时间。这与传统作法没有两样,只 

是时间点要抓的恰到好处,才能迎合当地 

recipe 

Chef Moniz uses locally-sourced 

grouper for his cataplana de marisco. 

总厨采用了本地石斑来制作 

他的葡式烩海鲜锅 


ecipe 

the pot all at once, with the result that 

some fish is overcooked. Actually I like 

it like that! But here, I cook everything, 

whether it be the lobster, clams or fish, 

only just as long as it needs to be cooked. I 

don’t change the recipe – I just use precise 

timing to make sure everything is perfect 

and the guests are more than happy. My 

cooking style is just a little bit modern. I 

cook traditional Portuguese food, but with 

the elegance of French cuisine. I work 

with traditional recipes, but use cuttingedge 

technology. 

The secret of a good cataplana is the 

quality of the produce. You have to work 

with the best ingredients for the best taste. 

The lobster and the clams come from the 

United States while the garoupa is local. The 

potatoes are from France – they’re called 

ratte and have a wonderful flavor. You can 

taste the farm where they were grown. 

After that, it’s the quality of the stock. 

I use a new set of the same ingredients in 

the stock as in the casserole: prawn heads, 

lobster tail and so on. The secret for a 

good stock is using aromatic water. Not 

just normal water, but water infused with 

coriander, ginger, pepper corns and celery. 

The last secret is lemon. Just a couple of 

drops draws out all the other flavors. 

顾客的口味。我烹调道地的葡国料理会加 

入法式料理的优雅元素,并且运用崭新技 

术来呈现传统食谱的精华所在。 

「葡式烩海鲜锅」要做得好,食材的 

品质是关键。要运用最佳食材,创造出无 

懈可击的滋味。我们用美国进口的龙虾及 

蛤蛎、澳门当地的石斑,以及名为「ratte」 

的法国种马铃薯,味道特别棒。一口入肚, 

可以吃得到各地食材的道地风味。 

讲完食材,接下来的重点就是高汤了。 

使用汤料与制作砂锅菜一样,有虾头、龙 

虾尾等等。汤头要好,秘诀就在加入胡荽、 

姜、干胡椒及芹菜的调味汁。最后别忘了 

加上柠檬,一两滴便有画龙点睛之效,让 

整体风味更上一层楼。 

CATAplANA dE MArISCo 

CATAplANA BASE 

1 kg lobster 

20 g large onions 

2 dl (200 ml) dry white wine 

chili powder to taste 

100 g sprig of coriander 

400 g raw shrimp 

50 g sprig of parsley 

650 g of peeled fresh tomato 

3 dl old brandy 

100 g cloves of garlic 

20 g butter 

1 dl olive oil 

12 pcs peppercorn 

1.5 l fumet of shrimp 

Use a saucepan with 5-liter capacity for 

the mixture of broth and water. 

Add in peeled potatoes (cut into pieces), 

1 onion (cut into pieces), shrimp, white 

wine, salt, and peppercorns. 

When it has boiled (about 30 minutes), 

add the lobster and let it cook for 30 

minutes. 

Meanwhile, use a pan to cook the finely 

chopped onion, grated garlic, and olive 

oil. Once the onion begins to brown, add 

crushed tomatoes and pour in 5 dl of broth 

through a fine sieve. 

Remove all the meat from the lobster, 

including the paws, corals and roe if any. 

Blend all the lobster meat, put it into the 

broth and simmer for a bit more. 

CATAplANA FISH ANd SEAFood 

600 g grouper 

500 g sea bass 

1.5 kg lobster 

400 g clams 

Scrape the spines and scales off the fish 

and seafood. 

Season with salt and pepper. 

Place a pan on a heated stove. Add a 

little olive oil and a knob of butter with 

coriander and garlic. 

Lightly sauté both fish and seafood. 

Place the potatoes in the cataplana, add 

the fish and seafood, and pour in the 

cataplana base/seafood broth. 

Enjoy! 

葡式烩海鲜锅 

锅底 

1 公斤龙虾 

20 克大颗洋葱 

2 公合 (200 毫升) 干白酒 

辣椒粉(品尝用) 

100 克小株胡荽 

400 克生虾 

50 克小株巴西里 

650 克新鲜脱皮蕃茄 

3 公合陈年白兰地 

100 克蒜头 

20 克奶油 

1 公合橄榄油 

12 片干辣椒 

1.5 公升虾高汤 

汤底及水混和,置于容量5公升的 

汤锅内。 

加入削皮马铃薯(切片)、1颗洋葱( 

切片)、虾、白酒、盐及干辣椒。 

煮沸后(需时约3 0分钟)加入龙虾, 

熬煮30分钟。 

同时将切块洋葱、大蒜碎末及橄 

榄油放入平底锅炒香,洋葱炒至 

焦黄后加入蕃茄泥,并将5公合汤 

底过筛倒入。 

将龙虾肉、虾脚及虾卵等全部取 

出。 

龙虾肉充分搅和后放入汤底,慢 

火闷煮一下即可。 

鲜鱼及海鲜炖锅 

600 克石斑 

500 克鲈鱼 

1.5 公斤龙虾 

400 克蛤蛎 

将鱼及海鲜去骨去鳞。 

加盐及胡椒调味。 

平底锅置于火炉上,倒入一点橄 

榄油、一小球奶油、胡荽及大 

蒜。 

文火嫩煎鱼及海鲜。 

马铃薯放入炖锅内,加入鱼及海 

鲜,并倒入炖锅锅底/海鲜高汤。 

用餐愉快! 


sponsored markets feature 

104 


海鲜集中地 

Seaood 

Centra 

The Aberdeen Wholesale Fish Market makes 

Hong Kong’s seafood world go around. 

markets 


106 


markets 

It’s four o’clock in the morning. Do you 

know where your seafood is? If you live 

in Hong Kong, odds are good that it’s just 

arriving at the Aberdeen Wholesale Fish 

Market. In the wee hours of the morning 

when most of us are still sound asleep, 

the dockworkers and market hands are 

already hard at work. 

Banish any romantic thoughts of boat 

dwellers in large-brimmed hats selling 

their day’s catch fresh from their sampans. 

The Aberdeen fishing port is unmistakably 

modernized. Generators power fish tank 

pumps, cargo trucks idle, and although it’s 

still known the “little fragrant harbor,” any 

aroma of the incense wood that gave rise 

to Aberdeen’s Cantonese name has long 

since been replaced by the scent of diesel 

from incoming and outgoing boats. 

一大清早四点钟,海鲜哪里买?香港居民 

可有福了,此刻正是香港仔鱼类批发市场 

进货的时间。天空尚未露出鱼肚白,多数 

人还在梦周公时,港坞工人及市场员工早 

就忙里忙外,一刻也不得闲。 

若以为现场是渔夫戴着大顶草帽、搭 

着小船贩售当日鱼货的渔家风情画可就大 

错特错了,香港仔渔港可是非常现代化, 

自动发电鱼池帮浦及货车一应俱全。香港 

粤语地名,一说为过往曾是香木交易市场 

得名。而香港仔渔港作为转运码头,当年 

缭绕的香木气息,早已被进出港船只浓浓 

的柴油味取代。 


In an effort to ensure quality Hong Kong 

requires that all fresh marine fish be 

sold via one of the seven wholesale fish 

markets operated by the Fish Marketing 

Organization (FMO). No longer sold by the 

fishermen directly, the fish pass through 

numerous middlemen before reaching 

consumers. While still out on the South 

China Sea, fishermen transfer their daily 

catch to connecting agents, who transport 

the fish to Hong Kong wholesalers, who 

sell in bulk to buyers, who fill and deliver 

orders to restaurants, grocers and wet 

markets, who finally sell the fish to 

individual customers. 

Wholesalers may look back with 

some nostalgia on the old days, when 

the market was less regulated and they 

could select what they wanted as the 

boats came in. But they appreciate the 

infrastructure provided by the FMO. The 

live seafood facilities are equipped with 

generators and water pumps and provide 

a supply of clean seawater, all of which 

reduce stress on the fish. During lowyield 

seasons the FMO imports seafood to 

maintain inventory. 

香港仔鱼类批发市场是香港鱼类统营处 

(FMO) 经营的七大鱼市之一,为严格控管 

品质,新鲜鱼货不由渔家贩售,而是经过 

多重中盘商营销,最后才到消费者手中。 

渔船尚在南中国海时,当日鱼获便已售予 

中介,送至香港大盘商后再批发转卖给专 

接餐厅、零售商及生鲜市场订单的买家, 

最终才单卖给一般消费者。 

批发商或许缅怀过往直接向靠岸渔船 

采购、市场较为纷沓的时期,但对于统营 

处提供的硬体设备仍是高度肯定。临时鱼 

池备有帮浦、供应干净的海水,可安定被 

捕活鱼的情绪、减低压力。鱼获量较低的 

季节,统营处则进口海鲜,让存货供应无虞。 

108 


markets 


110 


markets 

Each year, the FMO moves around 8,000 

tons of live marine fish and 35,000 tons 

of fresh marine fish through its wholesale 

fish markets. The largest market is 

Aberdeen, which, according to Marketing 

Manager Boris Wong, accounts for roughly 

one-third of the fresh fish and threequarters 

of the live seafood sold in Hong 

Kong. Business is brisk, and though the 

market may look chaotic to the untrained 

eye, the operation is as well-coordinated 

as a beehive. 

统营处旗下的鱼类批发市场每年经手活鱼 

达 8,000 吨,生鲜则有 35,000 吨之多。行 

销经理 Boris Wong 表示,其中以香港仔市 

场规模最大,生鲜及活海鲜经销就各占了 

全港约三分之一及四分之三。鱼市交易相 

当蓬勃,外行人眼中看来稍嫌有点杂乱无 

章,但整体运作其实如同蜂巢一般,分工 

合作、井井有条。 


Visitors are advised to stay on their toes. A lapse in attention is apt to result in a painful encounter with cartload of fish or an unexpected 

dousing of seawater. After one gets the hang of dodging the live fish being tossed around and wading through the streams of ankledeep 

water sluicing from fish tanks, it’s possible to enjoy the visual feast: glistening mackerel packed in boxes of ice, tanks of brilliantly 

colored yellow wrasse, buckets of coiled pike conger, bins of exotically striped areolate babylon, and piles and piles of decapitated fish 

heads whose bodies will soon be made into fish balls. 

鱼市的访客需时时提高警觉,否则一恍神撞到满满一车的鱼或泼了满身海水,都是常见的意外。反应够快、懂得躲开抛来丢去的活鱼,或 

面临膝盖高度、鱼池排出的强力水流也能安然跋涉的人就可好好欣赏一下鱼市的美丽风景 :冰块箱里闪闪发亮的青花鱼、水池中鲜艳动人 

的黄衣锦鱼、一桶桶蜷曲的海鳗、一柜柜充满各式异国条纹色调的象牙凤螺,以及堆叠成堆的鱼头,其鱼身准备制成鱼丸。 

112 


markets 


114 


markets 

The Aberdeen market makes Hong 

Kong’s seafood world go around. The 

market officially closes every day at two 

o’clock in the afternoon, and most of the 

wholesale business slows down by late 

morning, but the pleasure of eating fresh 

seafood that the market helps to deliver 

continues all day long. 

休市时间为每日下午二点。绝大部分的批 

发作业步调随着时序进入中午而逐渐变 

慢,但一整个早上的鱼市交易已足够支撑 

全港的海鲜经济。可以说,正是香港仔鱼 

类批发市场驱使香港海鲜市场不断运作。 


116 

奥地利酿酒新秀登场 

austria’s 

new generation 

of winemakers 

AustriA boAsts nearly three millennia of winemaking history, twenty 

thousand wine growers and six thousand producers. Indigenous varietals 

such as Grüner Veltliner have won international acclaim. The domestic 

wine culture is rich and appreciative – Austrian demand for their local 

wines outstrips supply. It’s one of the world’s great wine regions and it is 

thriving. 

Not so long ago though, in the mid 1980s, the reputation of Austrian 

wine lay in shatters following a scandal involving some producers who 

had adulterated their wine with a banned substance found in antifreeze. 

Today, many will agree that it was the best thing that ever happened to 

Austrian wine. In the aftermath of the scandal, ambitious winemakers 

emerged who were willing to fight an uphill battle to bring their wines 

back on to the international stage. Modern techniques and steady focus 

on quality turned the tide, and by the late 1990s Austrian wine was back 

in the finest restaurants, bars and boutiques in New York, London, Hong 

Kong and Tokyo. 

Now nearly thirty years on, we see these accomplished pioneers 

passing on their heritage to a new generation of knowledgeable and 

equally ambitious winemakers, who aim to surpass the achievements of 

their accomplished fathers. Here are three examples of those who have 

already made their mark. 


奥地利酿酒历史将近三千年,相当悠久,全 

国共有近两万户酿酒坊及六千家制造商。当 

地培育的 Grüner Veltliner 等葡萄变种品质优 

异,也备受国际好评。奥国酿酒文化丰富, 

品质极受肯定,从当地酿酒产业生产量尚不 

及国内需求即可见一斑。奥地利产业蓬勃发 

展,为全球数一数二的酿酒区域。 

但 1980 年代中期爆发的不肖酿酒业者于 

酒中掺入违法物质丑闻,重创奥地利酿酒王 

国形象。不过现在很多人却认为这是因祸得 

福。丑闻爆发后,不少有志酿酒业者仍义无 

反顾、投身这场硬仗,希望扭转劣势,让奥 

地利美酒重回国际市场怀抱。拜现代技术及 

稳定品质所赐,奥地利酒商终于东山再起。 

90 年代末期奥国佳酿又于纽约、伦敦、香港 

及东京等各地顶级餐厅、酒吧再现踪迹。 

至今将近三十年的时间,当初披荆斩棘 

的前辈将宝贵经验传承给同样知识丰富、充 

满雄心壮志的新一代酿酒商,希望能青出于 

蓝胜于蓝。以下为三家已崭露头角的酿酒新 

秀介绍。 

Gerhard Kracher 

Weinlaubenhof Kracher, Neusiedlersee 

Distributed in Hong Kong by 

Ponti Fine Wine 

香港经销商Ponti Fine Wine 

www.pontiwinecellars.com.hk 

Gerhard Kracher took over the family vineyards 

after the death of his father Alois in 2007. 

Considered by many to be the best winemaker in 

Austria, Alois Kracher was six times recognized as 

Sweet Wine Maker of the Year. It was a hard act to 

follow, but already in 2009, twenty-eight year-old 

Gerhard himself won the Sweet Wine Maker of the 

Year Award at the International Wine Challenge in 

London. 

The Kracher vineyards are located along the 

shore of Lake Neusiedlersee. The shallow depth 

of the water and the warm climate of Austria’s 

Pannonin Plain produce autumn mists and a long 

ripening season, and this is one of the rare areas 

in the world where noble rot is almost guaranteed. 

Infected by the magic-making Botrytis fungus in 

the moist air, the grapes later dry out and become 

raisined, with intensely concentrated sugar and 

flavor. 

Gerhard produces a range of Trockenbeerenauslesen 

(German for “dried berries selection,” 

the term refers to sweet wines made from the 

botrytized grapes) every year from different varietals 

and blends and labels them in order of residual 

sugar levels which can range from 160 g/l to 

over 450 g/l. Some are aged in barriques (labeled 

Nouvelle Vague) and some in stainless steel 

(labeled Zwischen den Seen) and despite the high 

sugar levels are perfectly balanced with crisp acidity 

and intense fruit. 

Gerhard Kracher 于父亲 Alois 

2007 年过世后正式接下家族 

的酿酒事业。 Alois Kracher 

曾六度荣膺年度最佳甜酒酿 

酒商,说是奥地利第一酿酒 

品牌并不为过。对后继者而 

言,虽是不小的压力,但 28 

岁的 Gerhard 却以实力证明 

一切,不到两年时间,便在 

伦敦举行的 2009 年国际葡 

萄酒竞赛中摘下年度甜酒酿 

酒商的殊荣。 

Kracher 家族葡萄园座 

落于 Neusiedlersee 湖岸 

边,浅水、奥地利 Pannonin 

Plain 地区秋季浓雾造成的温 

暖气候,再加上长时间的熟 

成期,得天独厚的条件举世 

少有,出产的贵腐酒几乎瓶 

瓶都是品质保证。潮湿天候 

孕育的贵腐菌(Botrytis) 使 

葡萄水分挥发,脱水成葡萄 

干后却有神奇效果,让糖份 

及风味都升级。 

Gerhard 每年都会挑选 

多个葡萄变种,混酿一系 

列的「Trockenbeerenauslesen( 

德文为特选干葡萄之 

意,引伸为贵腐菌葡萄所酿 

之甜酒 )」特极葡萄酒,酒 

标中的留存糖份从 160 g/l 

到 450 g/l 以上不等。另外, 

还有酒柜中熟成的「Nouvelle 

Vague」、不锈钢桶熟成的 

「Zwischen den Seen」葡萄 

酒等,虽然含糖量高,鲜呛 

的酸度及浓郁的果味却搭配 

的恰到好处,让人忍不住再 

三品尝。 


118 

Dieter Hoffmann-Unzog 

Weingut Schloss Halbturn, Neusiedlersee 

Direct sales only, with worldwide 

shipping to selected clients. 

仅接受直接订购, 

会员客户可享全球货运服务 

www.weingut-schlosshalbturn.com 


Dieter Hoffman-Unzog has a background in 

finance and is a serial entrepreneur. In 2001, 

he joined Markus Graf zu Königsegg-Aulendorf 

and Max Erbgraf zu Königsegg-Aulendorf as 

co-owner and CEO of the Schloss Halbturn 

estate with a mission to produce the best 

Austrian red wine. His motto: “Quality knows no 

compromise.” Investing in the modernization of 

the equipment, he spared no expense to ensure 

highest quality. He set up meticulous production 

standards from harvest to bottling, including 

healthy vineyard management, berry selection, 

double sorting, and use of barriques. 

The winery is located east of Vienna near 

the Hungarian border in the Baroque Palace 

Halbturn, which used to be the hunting and 

summer residence of the Austrian Imperial 

family. The former vaulted stables are now an 

exquisite cellar housing rows of French oak barrels. 

The estate maintains an extensive wine 

library and larger formats for all the wines 

which have been produced since 2002. 

Dieter’s ambitions bore fruit in 2012, when 

the estate’s 2008 Pinot Noir won Decanter 

magazine’s trophy for Austria’s best red wine. 

The label’s top red wine range also comprises 

single varietal wines made from St. Laurent and 

Blaufränkisch grapes native to Austria, and the 

Imperial blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Blaufränkisch, 

Merlot and Cabernet Franc. 

Dieter Hoffman-Unzog 出身 

金融背景,非常有商业头脑, 

为跨足多个领域的实业家。 

2001 年入主 Markus Graf 

zu Königsegg-Aulendorf 及 

Max Erbgraf zu Königsegg- 

Aulendorf 的酿酒事业成为 

共同所有人,并担任 Schloss 

Halbturn 酒庄的执行长,以 

打造奥地利最佳红酒为职志。 

也如同他的座右铭「品质不 

可妥协」一般,Dieter 斥巨 

资全面更换现代化设备,不 

惜重本就为了追求最高品质。 

从采收到装瓶,设立了一整 

套精细的制作标准流程,包 

括葡萄园整体管理、葡萄挑 

选、双重分类及酒柜使用都 

有详细规定。 

酿酒场位于维也纳东部、 

接近匈牙利边界 Halbturn 地 

方的巴洛克式城堡,过去曾 

为奥国王室家族夏季狩猎的 

行宫。昔日的圆顶馬廄今已 

改为窖藏多排法国橡木酒桶 

的精美酒窖。庄园占地广阔, 

还有馆藏丰富的的红酒图书 

资料馆,并收藏 2002 年至 

今所有酒款的大型模型瓶。 

Dieter 打造第一品牌的 

壮志于 2012 年开花结果,酿 

制的 2008 年黑皮诺赢得奥 

地利最佳红酒的殊荣。品牌 

的顶级红酒系列有来自本地 

原生的St. Laurent 及 Blaufränkisch 

葡萄变种,以及 

Cabernet Sauvignon、Blaufränkisch、 

Merlot 及 Cabernet 

Franc 的特极皇家混酿。 

Franz Xaver (FX) Pichler 主掌 

的葡萄园正是酒评家Robert 

Parker 赞不绝口的「拉图酒庄 

(Chateau Latour)」及奥地利 

Wachau 区的「Domaine de la 

Romanee-Conti」庄园。 Pilcher 

虽已年过七旬,仍事必躬亲每日 

巡逻葡萄园,悉心照料,1999 

年才正式交班给儿子 Lucas。 

庄园座落于风景如画的 

Danube 河谷Wachau 地区。 

2009 年引进最新科技酿酒设备, 

以最现代的方式颠覆多年传统。 

访客踏入纯白无暇的品酒间, 

可一览已延续五代所耕耘的广 

阔葡萄梯田。地下酒窖的风格 

同样干净简单,有如实验室一 

般。 Lucas 亲自指定使用不锈钢, 

酿制的葡萄酒与橡木桶熟成一 

般,纯净不带一丝瑕疵,非常 

浓郁,尽显当地的风土特色。 

Kellerberg 的 Loibenberg 

的地形以及历史超过 800 年的 

陡峭依山梯田孕育出品质一流 

的 Grüner Veltliner 及 Riesling 

葡萄,也酿制成多款Pilcher 

极具代表性的佳酿。依据特 

选年份不同,Pilcher 也推出 

M(Monumental 特极纪念) 及 

Unendlich(Infinite 无穷纪念 ) 两 

种限量酒款,都是名符其实的 

顶级美酒。 

Lucas Pichler 

Weingut F.X. Pichler, Wachau 

Lucas is the son of the famous Franz Xaver (F.X.) 

Pichler, whose estate wine critic Robert Parker 

has called the Chateau Latour and Domaine de 

la Romanee-Conti of the Wachau. Now in his 

seventies, the elder Pilcher still spends every day 

in the vineyards tending and caring for his beloved 

vines, but in 1999, he passed the winemaking 

duties on to his son. 

The Pilcher estate is located in the beautiful 

Danube River valley called the Wachau. In 2009, 

a new state-of-the-art winery was inaugurated, 

breaking tradition with ultra modern architecture. 

From the pristine white tasting room visitors 

enjoy expansive views over the vineyard terraces, 

which the Pilchers have been cultivating for five 

generations. Below, in the cellars, the simplicity 

and almost laboratory-like atmosphere continues. 

Lucas uses only stainless steel. Unaltered by 

oak, the character of the resulting wines shines 

through. They are clean and pure and immensely 

concentrated, giving a true expression of their 

terroir. 

The plots of Kellerberg and Loibenberg, steep 

mountain terraces dating back to the 12th century, 

produce some of Pilcher’s most impressive and 

expressive Grüner Veltliners and Rieslings. In 

selected years, he also produces wines labeled 

M (for Monumental) and Unendlich (Infinite) – 

confident wines that both fulfill the promise of 

their labels. 

Distributed in Hong Kong by Altaya 

香港经销商大亚洋酒 

www.altayawines.com 



慧眼识餐酒 

champagne savoir-faire 

When it comes to the rules of fine wines and Champagnes, some are simple. Red meat pairs with red wine, seafood with white and 

Champagne with fabulous celebrations. But what happens once you venture off the beaten track? Can Champagne go with a multicourse 

meal? Which aperitif will enhance a glass of even the best bubbly? And what should a gracious host do if a guest requests a full 

flute to accompany a nibble of chocolate? 

G.H. Mumm is teaming up with L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon and Tasting Kitchen this October to host G.H. Mumm Chef de Cave Didier 

Mariotti and world-renowned Champagne expert Richard Juhlin for an exclusive Chef’s Table dinner demonstrating how thoughtfully 

selected Champagnes can further elevate the flavors of fine French cuisine. 

Tasting Kitchen spoke with the chef and sommeliers at Robuchon responsible for the exquisite pairings about their Champagne 

philosophies. Combined with advice from the celebrated iPhone app Champagne Protocoles de G.H. Mumm there’s enough expert 

guidance to elevate a novice to a champ of the Champs. 

120 


ReD DOG STuDiO 

餐酒怎么搭?有时很简单,红肉配红酒,海鲜就配白酒或香槟,宾主尽欢,皆大欢喜。但 

若另辟蹊径,想走不同的路会怎样?譬如能否以香槟搭配多道套餐、什么开胃菜可让顶级 

香槟的味道更上一层楼?或客人想巧克力配香槟,身为主人又该如何是好? 

法国香槟 G.H. Mumm 今年十月特别与 L’Atelier de Joel Robuchon 及 TK 合作,网罗知 

名香槟酒评人 Richard Juhlin 及自家酿酒大师 Didier Mariotti 参加别开生面的主厨晚宴,藉 

由精心挑选的香槟,让法式料理的美味加倍升级。 

TK 特别专访 L’Atelier 负责香槟与餐点搭配的行政总厨及侍酒师,一窥餐酒搭配奥妙。 

加上 G.H. Mumm 专为 iPhone 设计的 APP「Champagne Protocoles de G.H. Mumm」搭配 

守则提点,初学者也能功力大增,慧眼挑选最棒的香槟。 

PAIRING CHAMPAGNE 



122 

what Can be served 

with Champagne as an aperitif? 

该选择何种开胃菜搭配香槟享用? 

Champagne is the only wine meant to be enjoyed 

standing up. And it is a flexible beverage, lending itself 

quite well to hors d’oeuvres. 

可以站着享用的酒,非香槟莫属。香槟搭配性极强,为 

各式开胃菜的好搭档。 

Champagne protoColes de g.h. mumm 

“i would choose caviar. it’s much fresher especially 

when you’re pairing it with some refreshing Champagne. 

it’s going to bring out the matching flavor – really it’s just 

a perfect match. For the Champagne, i think something 

very refreshing like Blanc de Blancs. Sometimes an aged 

Champagne is great.” 

「我推荐鱼子酱,搭配爽口的香槟,味道会更加新鲜。香 

槟可引发餐酒搭配的美味,真的无懈可击。讲到香槟我 

总会想到气味清新的『Blanc de Blancs』,或者陈年香槟 

有时候滋味也很棒。」 

You Ching Yuen (eriC ), sommelier 侍酒师丘政元 


Can Champagne be served 

with a main dish? 

主菜能否搭配香槟享用? 

Certain people will answer “no.” Correct them 

graciously, as the actual answer is “yes.” 

有些人会说「不行」, 这时请婉转的纠正他们, 

其实是「可以的」。 



“What is nice about Mumm is that they have a very different type of Champagne. With Mumm 

you have many years, you have different types of grapes. in French cuisine we have dishes 

that are sometimes a bit rich with butter, with cream. The champagne helps us balance the 

dish. When you try the food with the Champagne, it’s amazing how well they match together.” 

「Mumm 厉害之处,是它们的酒与众不同。不同年份,葡萄种类也不一样。法式料理常加入奶 

油调味,香槟正好可以中和丰厚的味道。美食搭配香槟一起享用相得益彰,常让人惊艳不已。」 

oliver elzer, Chef de Cuisine exéCutif 

G.H. Mumm’s Brut Sélection NV pairs 

wonderfully with seafood dishes. 



Warm soft boiled egg with baby spinach 

puree and aged Comté cheese mousse 

日本糖心蛋伴嫩菠菜蓉及 

香浓考姆特芝士慕丝 

G.H.Mumm Millésimé 2006 


what Champagne should 

be served with dessert? 

搭配甜点该选择何种香槟? 

When serving sweet delights, the only possible choice 

is a demi-sec, or extra-dry Champagne as it contains 

an adequate dose of sugar and is otherwise full and 

generous. 

搭配甜点,半干或略干香槟为不二选择,含一定甜度, 

酒体也丰满宽厚。 


“There are two kinds of Champagne that are very 

good. One is the Le Rosé Champagne because it’s much 

fruitier. i recommend pairing it with fruity dishes like a 

raspberry tart, simple berries, or blueberry cheesecake. 

it will be very fine with those because it will enhance 

the fruitiness. The demi-sec Champagne is very 

good because you have over fifteen grams of sugar, 

sometimes over thirty.” 

「有两款值得推荐,一是 Le Rosé Champagne 粉红香槟, 

果味浓郁,适合和覆盆子塔、综合莓果或蓝莓起司蛋糕 

等水果甜点一起享用,提升果香的迷人程度。半干香槟 

含超过 15 克糖残量、有时甚至超过 30 克,也是搭配甜 

点的绝佳选择。 

wong Ka lun (terenCe), sommelier 侍酒师黄嘉麟 


what should You do if a guest insists 

on drinKing Champagne with ChoColate? 

客人吃巧克力非要搭配香槟怎么办? 

On one hand: the most exquisite of all wines. On the 

other: the most divine of desserts. The temptation to 

pair them together is irresistible. But you just can’t win: 

Champagne and chocolate, like the best of enemies, 

cannot be served together. 

一边是口味最细致的酒款 ;一边是最令人钟爱的甜点。 

想一并享用也算人之常情,但只怕两边不讨好 :香槟和 

巧克力如同天敌,不可同时上桌。 


“Some people say Champagne and chocolate cannot mesh 

together because of chocolate’s dryness and bitterness, 

but i often suggest a milk chocolate. Milk chocolate can 

go with rosé Champagne because the rosé has good 

fruitiness. i focus on fruitiness to go with bubbles. Mumm 

Champagne has a fine bubble and is very smooth.” 

「有人说巧克力味道干苦,不能和香槟一起享用。不过, 

换成是牛奶巧克力就没问题了。玫瑰香槟富含果味,与牛 

奶巧克力很搭。我更注重果味与香槟泡沫的融合程度,像 

Mumm 泡沫就很漂亮,也非常顺口。」 

au Chin man (andY ), sommelier 侍酒师欧展文 


sponsored feature world class 

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世外天堂 

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An escape to the tropical island pleasures of 

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Stools hewn from the trunks of mango 

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Honi Honi smells of fresh tropical fruit. 

The team behind the bar work hard, peeling 

fragrant mangoes, scalping watermelons 

and blitzing the juicy flesh to pulp in blenders. 

“This is a Tiki bar,” says Max. “Tiki is a 

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The bar opens out on to a tropical garden 

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The refreshingly fruity and iced cocktails 

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world class TIKI ANGEl 

other drinks are served in natural containers, 

like a hollowed-out, filled-to-the-brim 

watermelon. “We have sharing cocktails,” 

says Max. “I watched how people in Hong 

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and share. And I noticed at cocktail bars how 

everyone would order a different drink and 

then taste each other’s. So I thought, let’s try 

this – let’s make large cocktails for groups of 

people to drink together. It’s natural and fun.” 

Fabien is making a cocktail from Zacapa 

rum, a fine Guatemalan liquor the color of 

burnt amber. This rum comes in a bottle 

wearing a slender belt of woven grass. 

“Zacapa rum is at the top of its game,” says 

Max. “It has sweet honey and vanilla notes 

that come through – spice too. It’s great on 

the rocks or in a simple mixed drink so its flavour 

can shine.” 

Today Fabien is making a more complex 

drink using Zacapa. “We use a lot of ice in tiki 

cocktails to make the drinks long and refreshing. 

You want a really good alcohol with classy 

flavor to make a great drink.” 

Fabien carefully rotates the rim of a faceshaped 

brown tiki glass in a heap of shredded 

coconut. He mixes rum, pineapple juice and 

coconut water, adds a dash of coconut and 

orgeat syrup and pours the drink over plenty 

of ice. “Coconut water goes incredibly well 

with rum, and is naturally hydrating, so this 

is perfect for hot weather.” The coconut looks 

like a halo around the top of the carved face 

on the front of the glass. Fabien calls the 

drink Tiki Angel. 

Despite the fruit juice and syrup, Tiki 

Angel is not that sweet, rather clean-tasting 

and light. The coconut water is pure and 

refreshing and the vanilla notes of the rum 

come through clearly. “It’s a cooling drink – 

very tiki!” says Fabien. “Good name too.” 

“I love to name cocktails,” interjects Max. 

128 

Zacapa is the rum of World Class, 

the global competition which celebrates 

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“But finding a name for the bar was hard. You 

want to find something memorable. I stumbled 

across Honi Honi as it is the name of 

a rum cocktail. And I thought: girls here in 

Hong Kong call their boyfriends Honey, and 

honey is a sweet foodstuff. It all seemed to 

fit. Then someone told me that Honi Honi 

is actually the name for a traditional Polynesian 

greeting, where two people press their 

noses together whilst simultaneously inhaling. 

A bit like a kiss in France. And then I 

knew – a Polynesian kiss! – what name could 

be better than that!” 

酒吧创辨人 Max Traverse 在谈到创办风尚 

酒吧 Honi Honi 的理念时表示 :「我想在水 

泥丛林中让人有个偷闲的天堂。」酒吧就隐 

匿在车水马龙的威灵顿街中,走进所在建 

筑物三楼,电梯一开,映入眼帘的景象无 

不让人仿佛置身南太平洋玻里尼西亚群岛, 

有取自芒果树干凿成的座椅、仿玻璃浮标 

的垂挂灯饰、夏威夷雕刻艺术,及横挂的 

细布帘子,乍看仿如吹皱的风帆,无处不 

是南洋风情,像在天堂一般。 

Honi Honi 主打新鲜热带水果酒饮,吧 

台后方的调酒师们一刻不得闲,忙着将香 

味四溢的芒果削皮、西瓜囊肉取出,把新 

鲜多汁的果肉倒进果汁机处理。 Max 自豪 

表示 :「我们是货真价实的 Tiki 主题酒吧, 

这词最早由贸易商 Vic 所提出,把钟情的 

玻里尼西亚文化介绍到欧美等国,新鲜、 

放松及户外是其三大重点所在。我们每天 

用新鲜水果以及手边最棒的酒类制作风格 

独具的酒饮。」 

酒吧往外,是一片竹篱笆围着的热带 

花园。深绿色的树叶及异国植物让人暂时 

远离熙攘的街景及商店,安然置身于此遗 

世丛林中。想淋个雨的客人,也可利用雨 

林装置痛快一番,尽享度假氛围。酒吧经 

理 Fabien Marcault 就说 :「海滩派对每隔 

一个礼拜天举行,客人穿着海滩装出席, 

到热带雨林大玩特玩,阳光普照的午后, 

到这准没错。」 

各式水果鸡尾酒不仅沁凉爽口,更以 

多种别出心裁的特殊容器装盛,令人惊喜。 

有木刻杯、传统 tiki 南洋面具图腾的陶杯, 

甚或是挖空的西瓜等鲜果也能满注酒饮, 

新鲜上桌。 Max 还提出店里的另一大特色: 

「我们提供 Sharing Cocktail。香港人喜欢吃 

桌菜,点了满桌料理一起分享,我留意到 

客人来酒吧也会点自己喝的,再交换品尝。 

所以我就想,何不为客人特制大型份量的 

酒饮,供大家一起共享,好玩又过瘾。」 

Fabien 现场用带有焦黄琥珀色泽、瓜 

50 ml Zacapa 23 Year Old Rum 

70 ml coconut water 

20 ml pineapple juice 

5 ml orgeat syrup 

5 ml coconut syrup 

Serve in a round tiki mug filled 

to overflowing with ice and 

with a coconut-encrusted rim. 

50 毫升 23年陈年Zacapa兰姆酒 

70 毫升椰子水 

20 毫升凤梨汁 

5 毫升杏仁糖浆 

5 毫升椰子糖浆 

以Tiki圆杯装盛,放入 

冰块,再取椰壳置杯缘 

点缀即可。 

地马拉的「Zacapa」兰姆酒调酒,搭配细 

长草绳编织腰封的酒杯上桌。 Max 为我们 

介绍 :「 Zacapa 兰姆酒效果无懈可击,入口 

带有蜂蜜及香草的甜味,还有些微呛辣感, 

直接加冰块喝,或简单加几种酒类去调都 

能尝得到 Zacapa 独特的滋味。」 

不过 Fabien 今天调的稍微复杂一些, 

他说 :「 tiki 系列鸡尾酒通常会用大量冰块, 

让鸡尾酒持久清爽冰凉。真正好的酒才能 

做出好的饮品,发挥经典味道的独到风格。」 

Fabien 小心翼翼、顺着人脸图腾的咖 

啡色 tiki 酒杯杯缘旋转,旁边还散落许多 

椰子碎末。 Fabien 混和兰姆酒、凤梨汁及 

椰子水后,加上少许椰肉及杏仁糖浆,最 

后再放入大量冰块。「椰子水与兰姆酒简 

直是天作之合,加上水分丰沛,炎炎夏日 

享用真是锦上添花。」从酒杯正面看,椰 

肉正好就在人脸上方,有如光圈一般,Fabien 

也才将调酒取名为「Tiki Angel」。 

虽然加了果汁及糖浆,「Tiki Angel」并 

不会过甜,喝起来反而相当爽口清凉,尝 

得到椰子水的纯味、令人神清气爽,兰姆 

酒的香草气息也会在口中散开,就像 Fabien 

说的 :「这款调酒沁凉十足,百分之百 

tiki,名字也取得恰到好处。」 

说到这 Max 也忍不住插嘴 :「我超爱 

取名字的。不过当时为了给酒吧取一个让 

人印象深刻的名字,真的快想破头了。我 

碰巧注意到一款兰姆调酒叫『Honi Honi』, 

谐音就和香港女生喜欢叫男朋友『Honey』 

一样,又有甜食的意思,一切都太巧了。 

加上有人和我说『Honi Honi』字义代表玻 

里尼西亚的传统会面,会晤的两人会边吸 

气边将鼻子靠在一起,有点像法国人见面 

会亲吻一样,根本就是玻里尼西亚式的礼 

貌性亲吻!这可真是天作之合啊!」 



Filippo Benicini has the kind of job that 

makes other gourmets envious. Head of 

Cheese and Deli at Great Food Hall, the 

high-end grocer at Hong Kong’s upscale 

Pacific Place mall, he spends his days tasting 

and evaluating the world’s most sought-after 

luxury food products, from Italy’s Dolce Nero 

black truffles to heritage jamón sourced from 

Hungary’s Mangelica pigs. If you’re susceptible 

to envy, it gets worse. The store has 

recently opened a room dedicated to artisanal 

cheeses from all around the world. It’s 

a big room, the cheeses are amazing and 

Filippo is in charge. 

But there is a catch: Filippo’s “office” is 

permanently chilled to 11 degrees Celsius at 

80% humidity, an environment that’s imperative 

to keeping cheese in top condition. 

130 


Hong Kong’s cheese lovers finally have a room of their own. 

“It’s not the cold that worries me, I’m from 

Northern Italy,” says Filippo, who rarely 

wears anything warmer than his standard 

white chef’s linens. “It’s the dampness that 

really chills you – it’s not like mountain air. 

I try to come out once every hour, to warm 

up for a few minutes.” 

Not that he’s complaining. It might be 

cold, but for a cheese lover it’s close to paradise: 

“We have over 280 types of cheese 

here, which is the largest selection in Hong 

Kong by far,” says Filippo. The Cheese Room 

is impressive not just for the sheer number 

of cheeses on offer, but for a depth of selection 

which includes rarer and lesser-known 

精挑细选 

a fine selection 

artisanal cheeses. “Of course, sales are 

important,” says Filippo. “But I am given a 

lot of freedom to choose based on my personal 

taste as well.” 

When pressed, Filippo nominates Parmigiano-Reggiano 

as his favorite cheese. 

It’s made a mere ten miles from his childhood 

home and Filippo says he values the 

cheese not only for its savory, nutty flavor, 

but also for the happy memories it evokes: 

“I think for everyone, the food they love the 

best is the food that can take them back to 

childhood and happy memories of family. 

Of all food, it is cheese that for me has that 

special ability.” 

Filippo Benicini 主掌香港一流商城太古广 

场「Great」美食天地的起司熟食专柜,每 

天品尝、评鉴来自各国的梦幻奢华食材, 

如意大利的「Dolce Nero」黑松露或匈牙 

利「Mangelica」猪肉特制的顶级火腿等, 

这简直是老饕们梦寐以求的工作。专柜近 

来更开了专属空间来展售全球各地的高级 

起司。偌大空间里能发现各式经手工严选 

的起司。大感赞叹同时,也对 Filippo 能在 

此当家艳羡不已。 

但可别羡慕的太早,Filippo 的「办公 

室」,即起司的储蓄室需经年保持在恒温摄 

氏十一度及湿度百分之八十的环境下,才 

能让起司品质不坠。不过 Filippo 倒是说得 

云淡风清 :「我来自北意,其实不太怕冷」。 

的确 , 平常除了制式的主厨亚麻白袍外,他 

也甚少加上什么保暖配件。「倒是湿气,可 

没像高山上的清新空气那么干燥透爽,真 

的会让人打从骨子里冷起来,每个小时都 

要出来几分钟暖暖身才行。」 

Filippo 可没有一丝抱怨之意,冷归冷, 

但对起司迷来说,这里和天堂可几乎没什 

么两样,他自豪表示 :「我们的起司专柜 

全港最大,超过 280 种,应有尽有。」除 

了种类繁多,专柜还搜罗了各地稀有少见 

的手工起司,更是备受好评。「当然,业 

绩也很重要,大体上我都能随心拣出自 

己认可的起司。」Filippo 透露心中的最爱 

就是出产地离幼时住家仅有十英里远的 

「Parmigiano-Reggiano」。他强调,一件高 

品质起司,不仅在味道及令人着迷的浓郁 

气味上要取胜,能否让人联想到往昔的快 

乐回忆也是重点所在 :「对许多人而言,最 

爱的食物能让他们重温小时侯和家庭的开 

心时光。对我来说,所有食物当中就属起 

司有这个神奇魔力。」 

Filippo Benicini 


filippo’s 

favorites 

132 


St Marcellin from Isère in the Rhone Alps, France. A very 

soft cow’s milk creamy cheese with 50% fat content. The 

degree of ‘runniness’ increases with age as the exterior 

turns from blue-ish to yellow. “This is perfect with a 

Côtes Du Rhône red or a good pinot noir,” says Filippo. 

法国隆河阿尔卑斯区度假城镇Isère 出产之牛奶起司「St 

Marcellin」,质地软嫩绵密,脂肪比例 

高达五成。「松软」程度随时间增 

加,外皮也会逐渐从蓝色转为黄 

色。 Filippo表示:「搭配隆河 

坡地区(Côtes Du Rhône)红 

酒或黑皮诺(pinot noir)酿 

制的好酒再适合不过。」 

Etivaz d’Alpage A.O.C. from the Canton of Vaud, 

Switzerland. Aged for up to 13 months, this 

cow’s milk cheese has the aroma of fine Swiss 

alpine herbs and a slightly fruity, aromatic 

taste. Pair with a pinot noir. 

瑞士Canton of Vaud 的「Etivaz 

d’Alpage AOC 」起司。此款 

牛奶起司经13个月熟成, 

散发瑞士阿尔卑斯高山 

植物的清新香气,味 

道则带一丝果味及 

馨香,适合搭配 

黑皮诺葡萄 

酒享用。 

Ossau-Iraty A.O.C. from Northern Basque 

County, France. Neither bitter nor sweet, this 

ewe’s milk cheese has an aging time of 90 

days and includes an edible moldy tart rind. 

Gentle and pleasing with a rich smooth finish. 

法国北巴斯克区「Ossau-Iraty AOC」起 

司。此款母羊奶制成的起司不苦 

也不甜,熟成期为90天, 

发霉的外皮也可一并食 

用。口感鲜软、余 

韵滑顺且层次丰 

富,令人一尝 

便爱上它。 

Pouligny St Pierre from Central France. Legend has 

it that the distinctive incomplete pyramid shape of 

this soft goat’s milk cheese came about when 

Napoleon Bonaparte, still incensed by his doomed 

foray into Egypt, came upon the cheese at 

a small town in the region. The original 

pyramid structure allegedly brought back 

too many unpleasant memories, so he 

lopped off the top with his sword. 

产于法国中部的「Pouligny St Pierre」山 

羊奶起司形状类似残缺的金字塔,质地软 

嫩。相传拿破仑某次于中部地区小镇看 

到此金字塔形状的起司,想起远征埃及失 

利,愤而砍掉顶端才变成目前的形状。 

Shropshire Blue from Nottinghamshire, 

England. The name is misleading: this 

creamy blue cheese with a slightly yeasty 

bite actually has its origins in Inverness. 

Described as a cross between Stilton and 

Cheshire, Filippo recommends serving 

it as part of a cheese dessert plate. 

奶香浓郁,带着一丝发酵呛味的英国诺丁罕 

郡「Shropshire Blue」蓝起司其实并非如其名 

来自Shropshire, 

而是源于 

Inverness。味道 

介于「Stilton」及 

「Cheshire」两种 

起司之间,建议置 

于综合点心盘与他 

种起司一起享用。 


wine masters 

红酒贵公子 

wine player 

For more than a decade, Paolo Pong has been helping 

shape and transform Hong Kong’s wine tastes. 

Twelve years ago Paolo Pong saw a gap in the Hong Kong wine market and founded 

Altaya Wines – a wholesale wine merchant giving private investors and trade 

customers access to the world’s best and rarest wines. His vision had a powerful 

influence on the Hong Kong wine scene, opening up the world of small boutique 

producers to the Hong Kong consumer and awakening winemakers around the globe 

to the importance of Hong Kong as a serious player in the market. TK caught up with 

him to ask about how the wine scene in Hong Kong has evolved over the last decade. 

§ 十二年前,庞建贻看准香港尚未成熟的红酒市场,创立「大亚洋酒」,为 

私人投资商及金字塔顶端的商业客户引荐世界一流且稀有的酒品。「大亚洋 

酒」就此改写香港红酒市场的生态,让香港品酒人士有机会接触来自世界各 

地的一流小型酒庄,也让香港一跃成为全球重要的红酒市场,变成各大酒商 

的兵家必争之地。庞建贻接受TK专访,畅谈香港红酒市场近十年的发展。 

When did you become interested in 

wine? 

In my university days I attended master 

classes and tastings. I was in Boston at the 

time, but I would make special trips to 

New York and sometimes even to London 

just to taste wine. That’s my passion. That 

is really how I got into wine seriously. I 

also made friends with some of the critics 

and they really taught me a lot. People like 

Jancis Robinson and Michael Broadbent. 

They would see this young kid attending all 

何时开始对葡萄酒产生兴趣? 

大学时期我住在波士顿,但为了大师 

班及品酒课,经常就大老远跑到纽约、甚 

至伦敦上课,下了极大功夫去研究葡萄酒, 

大概就是那时候开始认真思考红酒事业的 

可能性。我与不少酒评家变成朋友,也从 

他们身上学了很多。每课必到,渐渐有机 

会与 Jancis Robinson 及 Michael Broadbent 

等赫赫有名的专家熟识、聚会并深入讨论 

红酒。那是 90 年代末期吧,在 2000 年毕 

业后,也承蒙他们的推荐信,让我有机会 

远赴酒乡波尔多学艺。最开始我在酿酒世 


wine masters 

these events – we became quite close and 

started our own gatherings, where we would 

really discuss wine. That was the late 90s. 

Once I graduated in 2000 they very kindly 

wrote me reference letters so I could go 

off to Bordeaux to learn about wine. First 

thing I did when I got there was to work the 

harvest for the famous Moeuix family who 

own Chateau Petrus. 

It was fascinating, really hands-on – 

hard work but that’s how you get close to 

the earth, soil and grapes. It was a wonderful 

experience and I learned a lot. I started to 

respect the subject a lot more. I realized it’s 

not just about drinking wine at a fine dining 

restaurant; it’s not about the fancy service 

provided by a great sommelier. It’s about the 

hard work behind the scenes that you don’t 

really see. This was the turning point for 

me – I thought this could be an interesting 

industry to get into. And subsequently I 

went to Cheval Blanc to learn about the 

winemaking side. I participated in every 

little step from cleaning barrels upwards. 

I learned about the whole process. It’s an 

experience I treasure a lot. 

What was the wine scene like in Hong 

Kong then? 

At that point it was dominated by a 

handful of big players – commercial brands 

that were heavily advertised and ubiquitous. 

Pretty much every five-star restaurant and 

all the restaurant groups had the same wines 

offered on their lists. That’s when I thought 

it would be a great idea to start importing 

boutique brands – mainly family-owned 

estates that were not represented at that 

stage in Hong Kong. 

That was a wise move when I look back. 

Once the consumer’s palate is no longer 

satisfied by the major brands, they start 

looking elsewhere – they start looking for 

the unique product. 

What challenges did you face when you 

started Altaya? 

136 


It took a few years before some of the 

boutique winemakers agreed to export to 

Hong Kong – many of them did not know 

exactly where Hong Kong was! It took a 

lot of hard work. At the consumer end 

major hotels or restaurant groups found it 

easier to work with a few big players, who 

could provide them with all the products 

they needed, both wines and spirits. I was 

a small, young wine merchant going into 

these five-star hotels and asking them to 

put my wines on the list. A few gave me 

opportunities. A few took one or two years 

of constantly knocking on the door. But it 

paid off. 

And what is the wine scene like now? 

If you open any wine list now in Hong 

Kong, you will find bigger brand wines 

alongside those from smaller or boutique 

producers. It’s quite rewarding to see the 

change in the last decade. It is not only me 

– there are other young companies springing 

up that have also influenced the change. 

Ten years ago there were a lot of people 

who really appreciated wine in Hong Kong 

– now even more people do. Ten years ago 

many suppliers thought their own national 

markets were enough for them. Now they 

realize the need to think about the Asian 

market. We have a different role now. 

Not only are we growing in terms of wine 

consumption but we also lead the trend for a 

lot of the mainland market. Suppliers look at 

Hong Kong from a very different perspective 

from before. 

Tell us about your three region-specific 

Etc wine shops. Where did the idea 

come from? 

First from my passion for these three 

regions – Burgundy, Champagne and 

Bordeaux – and for the variety of wines they 

offer. These are three areas that Hong Kong 

people recognize too and I also believed they 

would enjoy getting to know them better. The 

satellite regions of Bordeaux are reasonably 

undiscovered and have some wonderful 

value wines. In Burgundy and Champagne 

there are countless small producers, who 

realize they have this golden piece of land 

and are making more and more interesting 

wines. 

So we decided to focus on these regions 

and to do a lot of tastings and classes to 

help customers learn more about them. We 

have two to three events per week – both 

in-depth and introductory courses – teaching 

people about the different regions, and 

offering more detailed tastings of how the 

vineyards can differ within a certain village 

in Burgundy. There is so much to discover! 

What are some up and coming wine 

regions? 

I will not shut the door to any region. If 

dedicated people find that magical spot, they 

can make very nice wine. We import wines 

from England – we have this wonderful 

sparkling wine called Chapel Down. They 

served it at the royal wedding. At some point 

someone will find a very interesting terroir 

in China and be able to make high quality 

wines there too. I think China is the next 

place to look: Shandong, Xinjiang, Shaanxi. 

It will take a lot of time to see the results, 

years to realize the whole project, as it is a 

long process. But it’s exciting! 

HK has now arrived as a wine-loving 

city – when did you notice the change? 

The big turning point was 2008 when the 

Hong Kong Government abolished tax on 

wine – suppliers really started looking at this 

market and began travelling here extensively 

and hosting events several times a year. 

Producers, even small producers, began 

allocating us more wines. They realized 

the Hong Kong market was becoming very 

important and would become increasingly so 

for the next twenty to thirty years, so they 

need to feed the market with wine. Hong 

Kong is now the place to sell wine and we 

are very lucky to be doing that. 

家 Moeuix 旗下的「柏翠山庄」从事第一线 

农事工作。 

每天与土地、土壤及葡萄接触,虽然 

是苦差事,但绝对是不可取代的难得经验, 

让我获益良多。我对酿酒业因此也有了进 

一步的认识及尊敬,除了坐在高级餐厅品 

评红酒,享受侍酒师以客为尊的顶级服务 

外,背后还有鲜为人知、点点滴滴的辛勤 

投入及努力。也在此时我首次萌生以红酒 

为业的想法,算是人生的一大转捩点。后 

来我转入「白马庄园 (Cheval Blanc)」修习 

酿酒技术,从清洗酒桶开始,不放过任何 

一个小步骤,最终才得以学到全貌,整个 

过程至今都让我回味、珍惜不已。 

当时香港的葡萄酒市场是怎样? 

几乎是由几家商业大酒商所主宰,他 

们重金下广告,无所不在。走遍任何一家 

五星级餐厅或餐饮集团,酒单几乎大同小 

异。所以我才会想做专门代理顶级葡萄酒 

的生意,当时这些酿酒世家所产的一流佳 

酿在香港市场几乎都看不到。现在看来, 

当时的决定是正确的。当大酒商无法满足 

消费者的胃口时,就是我的机会。消费者 

会放宽眼光,寻找独特的产品。毕竟他们 

也想与朋友分享新玩意。 

「大亚洋酒」创立初期面临何种挑战? 

与一流酒庄交涉可不容易,常常一谈 

好几年才获首肯,更别说有些连香港在哪 

都不知道的,更是难上加难!没有全神投 

入真的做不来。就消费者端来看,主流大 

饭店或餐饮集团与市场大酒商常是一拍即 

合,轻轻松松就能取得各式葡萄酒及烈酒 

等所需产品。但我当时年轻、加上还是个 

小小的进口商,要与五星级饭店合作谈何 

容易,有些愿意给我机会,也有要花上一 

两年才能打通关的,不过一切都是值得的。 

现在香港的葡萄酒市场您又怎么看? 

现在到香港餐厅打开酒单,可以看到 

除了大厂牌外,还有来自小型酿酒商及酒 

庄的葡萄酒。十年过去,出现这种转变真 

的让人很欣慰。不只我,还要归功市场上 

其他的年轻公司大力投入,才造就目前这 

种局面。十年前香港就有很多懂酒的人, 

当时很多酒商都自满于内需市场,现在也 

意识到将触角延伸到其他亚洲国家的重要 

性。我们的角色与过去已大不相同,香港 

的葡萄酒消费曲线在不断成长之余,也站 

上了领导内地市场趋势的置高点。香港在 

世界酒商眼中已不能同日而语了。 

Etc 专卖店的构想从何而来? 

首先我对勃艮地、香槟区及波尔多三 

大酒乡早已钟情多年,出产的多种葡萄酒 

我也非常喜爱。香港酒迷们对这三大区域 

也不陌生,相信也乐意进一步探索其奥妙。 

波尔多邻近的卫星城镇虽然较不受重视, 

但也出产多支顶级佳酿 ;勃艮地及香槟区 

则有不可计数的小型酒庄运用天赐的黄金 

风土条件,精酿出一支支引人入胜的葡萄 

酒。所以我们决定聚焦于这些区域,透过 

品酒会及相关课程增进顾客对葡萄酒的了 

解。每周都有两三次入门及进阶课程,引 

领学员认识不同区域的特色,藉由详细的 

品酒解说,介绍伯艮地同一村庄中不同葡 

萄园所产红酒的细微差异。可以学的很多! 

接下来看好哪些葡萄酒新兴区域? 

任何区域都有发展的潜力。只要有心、 

锲而不舍地寻找上佳地点,都有可能酿制 

一流的美酒。像我们就有一款英国进口的 

气泡酒叫「Chapel Down」,品质极佳,为 

皇室婚礼御用。说不定之后也会有人在中 

国找到风土俱佳的地方,开始生产高品质 

的葡萄酒。中国绝对值得密切注意 :山东、 

新疆及陕西都大有可为。可能需费时许久 

才能看到成果、甚至花上好几年才有整体 

计画付诸实行,绝非一蹴可几,但前景着 

实让人兴奋不已! 

红酒蔚为风潮,香港也已成为美酒之都。 

您何时注意到此一转变? 

香港政府 2008 年起废除征收葡萄酒 

税,是一大转捩点。自此许多酒商正视香 

港市场、频繁造访,每年举办多次活动 ; 

眼看香港市场不断茁壮,此一趋势可能未 

来二三十年不歇,越来越多酿酒商、甚或 

小型酒庄也欲占得先机,开始大量供应各 

种不同的葡萄酒。香港现在可说是酒商的 

梦幻之地,身为其中一员,我真的觉得很 

幸运。 


HONG KONG 

RestauRants 

1/5 nuevo 

208 Duecento Otto 

22 Ships 

798 Unit & Co - JAR 

8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo – 

Bombana 

A Touch of Spice 

Adagio 

Agehan 

agnès b. café L.P.G. (Chung 

San House, Cityplaza, 

Devon House, Fashion 

Walk) 

agnès b. le pain grillé 

Ah Yat Harbour View 

Restaurant 

Akita 

Al Bistro Mediterranean 

Restaurant & Bar - TST 

Al Dente (Great Eagle 

Centre, Jaffe Road, TST, 

SoHo) 

Al Molo Ristorante Italiano 

All Night Long 

Al's Diner 

Amante 

Amber 

Ambrosia Oyster Bar & Grill 

Amina Italian and Oyster 

Restaurant 

AMMO 

Amore Italian Restaurant 

ANA Oyster & Grill 

Angel's Share 

Another Fine Day 

An-Tico Enoteca • Pizzeria 

Antipasto 

Antique Patisserie 

Apgujeong Korean Tent Bar 

Applegreen CWB 

Applegreen TST 

Ayuthaiya 

Caffe Greco 

La Marmite 

Arima Teppanyaki 

Aropa 

Azure 

Baby Blue Cafe & Bar 

Bacar 

Bahama Mama's Caribbean 

Bar 

Banker Whisky and Wine 

Bar 

Barg 

Barista Jam 

Bella Vita 

Bellaria 

Berliner German Bar and 

Restaurant 

Bicho 

Biergarten 

Big Tree Pub 

Bistecca Italian Steak House 

Bistro Bamboo 

Bistrot Le Fauchon 

Bit Point 

Black stump Australian Grill 

& bar 

Bloom 

BLT Burger 

BLT Steak 

Blue Lemon café & wine 

bar 

Bo Innovation 

Bo-lo’gne Café & Bar 

Bo-Lo'gne 

Bombay Dreams 

Bonheur 

138 

Bouchon Bistro Francais 

Bourbon 

Brasserie Le Fauchon 

Brat 

Bricklane 

Brivo 

Brotzeit German Bier Bar & 

Restaurant 

Brunch Club 

Bulldog's Bar & Grill 

Cafe by the Park 

Cafe Deco 

Cafe Elite 

Cafe Eos Club 

Cafe Gray Deluxe 

Café Iguana 

Café Locomotive 

Café Loisl 

Café Muse 

Cafe O 

Café on the 1st 

Cafe Rivoli 

Cafe TOO 

Cafe Zambra 

Cammino 

Caprice 

Carousel Fine Cake & 

Pastries 

Carpaccio 

Casa Fina 

Casa Lisboa Portuguese 

Restaurant & Bar 

Casablanca Oyster Steak 

Restaurant 

Cecconi's Italian 

Census Lounge 

Cepage 

C'est la B 

Chesa 

Chez Moi 

Chez Patrick Deli 

Chez Shibata 

Chikayaki 

Chilli Fagara 

Chocolate 

Chum Chum Mi 

CIN CIN Ristorante 

Circle Oyster 

Classified Mozzarella Bar 

Classified The Cheese Room 

Club Chow 

Club de Flavor 

Club Havana 

coast 

Cocky Bar 

Cova Café - Admiralty 

Cova Café - Lee Gardens 

Cova Pasticceria & Confetteria 

Cova Ristorante & Caffe 

Coyote Bar & Grill 

Craftsteak 

Cuisine Cuisine - IFC 

Cutty Sark 

Da Ping Huo 

Daddyos 

Dan Ryan's Chicago Grill 

Dap Modern European 

Restaurant 

Delaney's Wanchai 

Délifrance 

Devil's Advocate 

Divino Patio 

Divino Wine Bar & Restaurant 

Domani Ristorante 

Double Happiness Café 

Duetto 

Dynasty - Wanchai 

Eat Right 

edo & bibo Oyster & Steak 

House 

EL CID Spanish Restaurant 


Where Where Where to Find Find Find tK tK" tK 

Tasting Kitchen is available at more than 100 newsstands and bookshops 

across the region, and at all of the following fine resorts, hotels and restaurants. 

El Pomposo 

Estudio 

F.A.B French - American 

Bistro 

Fandango Spanish Restaurant 

Fat Angelo's 

Felix 

FINDS 

Fish Bar & Grill 

Flame at Towngas Avenue 

Fleur de Sel 

Flute Bar 

Flutes Champagne and 

Cocktail Bar 

Fook Lam Moon - Wanchai 

Forum Restaurant 

Fresh Café & Bar 

Frites Belgium on Tap 

Fu Ho Restaurant - TST 

Fuel Espresso 

Full/half 

Gaddi's 

Gaia Ristorante 

Gaylord Indian Restaurant 

Gemini 

glo restaurant + lounge 

Goccia Restorante Bar 

Terrace 

Gokayama 

Gold By Harlan Goldstein 

Grand Central Bar & Grill 

Grappa's Ristorante 

Grecoπ 

Green 

Grill Cafe 

Handle Bar 

Harbour Restaurant 

Hard Rock Café 

Harlan's 

Harvey Nichols Fourth Floor 

Restaurant & Bar 

Hoi King Heen 

Hokkaido Dairy Farm Milk 

Restaurant 

Holly Brown 

Hong Kong University 

Alumni Association 

Hooray Bar & Restaurant 

HOUSE 

il meglio Ristorante di 

Venezla 

Il Moro 

iL Posto 97 

Inn Side Out 

Island Seafood & Oyster Bar 

- Causeway Bay 

Island Seafood & Oyster 

Bar - TST 

Island Tang 

Isola 

Italian No.5 

Iwanami 

Jaa Kitchen 

Japas 

Jashan Celebrating Indian 

Cuisine 

Jimmy's Kitchen 

Joe Bananas 

Joe's Billiards & Bar 

Joia 

Kaiko Teppanyaki 

Katte Shabushabu 

King Ludwig Beerhall (TST, 

Wanchai) 

Kitchen 65 

Kitchen M 

Knutsford Steak Chop & 

Oyster Bar 

Kosyu 

Kowloon Tang 

KYOTO JOE 

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 

La Bodega 

La Bon Restaurant & 

Lounge 

La Bon’s Café 

la brezza café 

La Cantoche 

La Casa Chilean Oyster Bar 

LA Creperie 

La Cucina Italiana 

La Maison 

La Pampa 

La Parole 

La Serene Caffè 

La TASCA 

La Terrasse 

l'altro 

Lattitude 22⁰ 

LaVilla TST 

Lawry's the Prime Rib 

Le Gouter Bernardaud 

(ICC, IFC) 

Le Marron 

Le Mieux Bistro 

Le Monde d' Ulysse (Restaurant 

Galerie) 

Le Salon Restaurant et 

Croissanterie 

Le Souk 

Lei Garden - IFC 

Life 

Lil' Siam 

Limehouse 

Linguini Fini 

Lobby Lounge 

Louis' Steak House 

Lung King Heen 

LUPA 

LUX Bistro & Bar 

Magnolia 

Mangrove Bar & Restaurant 

Marlin 

Mask of Si Chuen 

McSorley's Ale House 

Merhaba 

Mes Amis 

Metropolitan Café 

Ming Court 

Mini Dans la Ville 

Mirror 

MiSet Restaurant 

Miyabi Japanese Fine Dining 

Moon Thai 

Mr. Steak Grill 

Ms B's Cakery 

Munch 

Myung Ga Korean Restaurant 

Nahm Vietnamese & Thai 

Nan Tei 

Nepal 

Nicholini's 

Nico's 

Oceanna 

Okaki 

Ole Spanish Restaurant 

Oliver's Super Sandwiches 

(Cheong Kong Centre, 

Hong Kong Station) 

Oliver's Super Sandwiches - 

Melbourne Plaza 

One-Thirtyone 

Only Buonasera 

Oolaa 

Oolaa petite 

Orange Tree Restaurant 

Otto Restaurant & Bar 

OWL Our Wonderland 

Oysters Bar & Restaurant 

Papa Razzi 

Papi 

Pastis Bistro Francais 

Peace Square 

Peak Café Bar 

Pearl on the Peak 

Peking Garden Restaurant 

Petrus 

Pier 7 Cafe & Bar 

Pierre 

PizzaExpress, Central 

PizzaExpress, Wanchai 

Pizzazaza 

Podium Cafe 

Portobello 

Posto Pubblico 

PRIME steakhouse 

Red Bar & Restaurant 

Red Rock Bar & Grill 

Rei 

Restoration 

Rex Caffe 

Roka 

Rouge 

Royal Feast 

Rustic Organic Pizza Kitchen 

Ruth's Chris Steak House 

Sabatini Ristorante Italiano 

Sabor Spanish Touch Private 

Kitchen 

Sahara Mezz Bar 

Sakaegawa Japanese 

Resaturant 

Sake Bar GINN 

Sashay Cafe & Wine Bar 

Scirocco 

Serenade 

Sevva 

Shanghai Fraternity Association 

Shanghai Jade 

Shanghai Lu Yang Cuo 

Shore Steak 

Shui Hu Ju 

Simplylife Bakery Cafe 

Simplylife Bread & Wine 

SML 

Social House 

Socialito 

SoHo Spice Vietnamese 

& Thai 

Solas 

Sole mlo 

Sorriso Italian Cuisine 

Spasso Italian bar 

SPICE 

Spicy Fingers 

Spoil Cafe 

Spoon by Alain Ducasse 

Spring Moon 

St.George 

Star Restaurant 

Starz Wine Bar 

Staunton's Wine Bar & Café 

Steik World Meats 

Stone's 

Stormies 

Studio City 

Studio Nineteen 

Su Casa Chilean Oyster Bar 

Summer Palace 

Sunning Restaurant 

Sushi Hiro 

Sushi Imamura 

Sushi Kuu 

Sushi Shin 

T2 Teppanyaki & Tapas Bar 

Tai Ping Koon Restaurant 

Tandoor 

T'ang Court 

Taste 

Tate Dining Room & Bar 

Teppanyaki Kaika 

Tequila Jack's 

Thai Orchids Café & Bar 

KLN Bay 

Thai Orchids Café & Bar 

Mongkok 

The Box 

The Dutch Cheese and 

More 

The Fifties 

The Flying Pan 

The French Window 

The Great Indian Kebab 

Factory 

The Junk Pub 

The Lobby 

The Lotus 

The Parlour 

The Pawn 

The Peak Lookout 

The Press Room 

The Principal 

The Quarterdeck Club 

The Quarterdeck Hong Kong 

The Queen Victoria 

The Salted Pig 

The Square 

The Steak Kitchen Bar & 

Restaurant 

The Swiss Chalet 

The Wheel 

Tiffin 

Tim's Kitchen 

Tivo 

Tivoli Italian Restaurant 

Tonno Bar / Tonno Kitchen 

Trattoria Doppio Zero 

Tutto Bene 

Twyst 

Uno Duo Trio - Lana's Italian 

Home Cooking 

Up 

Va Bene 

Van Gogh Kitchen 

Via 28 Ristorante 

View 62 by Paco Roncero 

Vivo 

W28 Steak House 

Wabi Sabi Japanese Restaurant 

Wagyu Kaiseki Den 

Wagyu Lounge 

Wanya Japanese Restaurant 

Watson's Wine SoHo 

Weinstube 

Westwood Carvery 

Wildfire 

Wildfire pizzabar & Grill 

Wing's Kitchen 

Wooloomooloo Prime 

Wooloomooloo Steakhouse 

Wyndham the 4th 

Xi Yan Sweets 

Yan Toh Heen 

Yat Tung Heen - Wanchai 

Yi Pai Ya 

Yorkshire Pudding 

Yu Joy Chinese Restaurant 

Zelo Spanish Restaurant & 

Tapas Bar 

Zen 

Zentro Bar & Eatery 

ZOO 

Zummer 

四合軒 

Clubhouses 

United Services Recreation 

Club 

Pacific club 

HK Bartender's & Sommelier's 

Association 

Aberdeen Marina Club 

American Club - Hong Kong 

Country Club 

American Club - Town Club 

Asia Golf Club 

Caldecott Hill 

Chinese Recreation Club 

Continental Club 

Craigengower Cricket Club 

Discovery Bay Recreation 

Club 

Fairview Park Country Club 

Federation of the Swiss 

Watch Industry 

Gold Coast Resident's Club 

House 

Gold Coast Yacht and 

Country Club 

Harbour Front Club House 

Hebe Haven Yacht Club 

Hong Kong Country Club 

Hong Kong Cricket Club 

Hong Lok Yuen Country 

Club 

Kerry Property Management 

services Ltd (15 

Homantin Hill, Belgravia, 

Branksome Grande 

& Branksome Crest, 

Century Tower I & II, 

September Tower I & II, 

SOHO 38, Tavistock II & 

Aigburth, Valverde) 

Kowloon Tong Club 

Macau Jockey Club 

Marina Club Discovery Bay 

Marina Cove Club 

Mariners' Club (The Narubers 

Club) 

Mission Hills Golf Club 

Orient Express No. 8 

Club Bel Air 

Pacific Club 

Palais Monaco 

Premier 

Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club 

Shek O Golf Country Club 

The Beverly Hills (Resident's 

Clubhouse) 

The China Club 

The Clearwater Bay Golf & 

Country Club, HK 

The Cullinan 

The Ellipsis 

The Foreign Correspondents' 

Club Hong Kong 

The Hong Kong Golf Club - 

Deep Water Bay 

The Kowloon Club 

The Kowloon Cricket Club 

The Septemberfair 

The Palazzo Derby 

Three Bays 

Ville De Jardin's Clubhouse 

Wine and 

GouRmet shops 

Vamorosso Fine Wines Ltd. 

Concord Fine Wines Limited 

Cottage Vineyards (International) 

Limited 

Delish 

Hong Kong Wine Vault 

Jiontek Fine Wines (Hong 

Kong) Limited - Admiralty, 

Wanchai, TST, 

Kwai Chung 

Limitless Holdings Limited 

Monsieur Chatté - Sheung 

Wan 

Monsieur Chatté - Elements 

Pan-Handler 

Portrait Winemakers & 

distillers 

Prime Cellar Wine Tasting 

Room 

Queensway Wine 

Sino Vantage Asia Limited 

Where Where Where to Find Find Find tK tK" tK 

《Tasting Kitchen》美食指南于各地上百个书报摊、书店及下列各大顶级度假村、酒店与餐厅皆能取得。 

Valentino Chocolatier - Sai 

Kung 

Valentino Chocolatier - 

Wanchai 

hotels 

City Garden Hotel 

Conrad International Hong 

Kong 

Cosmopolitan Hotel 

Courtyard By Marriott Hong 

Kong 

Crowne Plaza HK CWB 

Hotel 

Eaton Hotel Hong Kong 

Eaton House 

Excelsior Hotel 

Grand Hyatt Hong Kong 

Harbour Grand Hong Kong 

Harbour Grand Kowloon 

Harbour Plaza North Point 

Holiday Inn Golden Mile 

Hong Kong Gold Coast Hotel 

Hong Kong Marriott Hotel 

Hotel Icon 

Hotel Jen 

Hotel LKF by Rhombus 

Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, 

Tsim Sha Tsui 

InterContinental Grand 

Standford 

InterContinental Hong Kong 

Island Shangri-La, Hong 

Kong 

JW Marriott Hotel Hong 

Kong 

Kowloon Shangri-La 

Lan Kwai Fong Hotel 

Langham Place, Mongkok, 

HK 

Lanson Place Hotel 

Le Meridien Cyberport 

L'hotel Island South 

Luk Kwok Hotel 

Mandarin Oriental 

Peninsula Hong Kong 

Regal Airport Hotel 

Regal Hong Kong Hotel 

Regal Hotels International 

Regal Kowloon Hotel 

Renaissance Harbour View 

Hotel, Hong Kong 

Rosedale on the Park HK 

Royal Garden Hotel 

Royal Pacific Hotel & 

Towers 

Royal Plaza Hotel 

Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel 

& Towers 

SkyCity Marriott Hotel 

The Kowloon Hotel 

The Landmark Mandarin 

Oriental 

The Luxe Manor 

The Park Lane Hong Kong 

The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong 

aiRline lounGes 

CNAC Lounge 

Dynasty Lounge 

Emirate Lounge 

Emirates Airlines-BKK 

Lounge 

Hong Kong Lounge 

Morning Calm ( Korean Air) 

Red Carpet Lounge (UA) 

Royal Orchid Lounge 

SQ Lounge (Silver Kris) 

The Traveller's Lounge 

EAST 

The Traveller's Lounge 

WEST 

Virgin Clubhouse 

Hong Kong Jet 

Jet Aviation Buisness Jets 

(HK) Ltd 

Metrojet Limited 

BAA - Business Aviation 

Asia Ltd 

VanGo 

Wanchai 

North Point 

Ho Man Tin 

Kwun Tong 

Lok Fu 

Shatin 

Tin Shui Wai 

Kwai Chung 

Chai Wan 

Kwun Tong 

TST 

Saigon 

Tuen Mun 

Happy Vally 

Lok Fu 

Tai Kok Tsui 

Tin Shui Wai 

Yuen Long 

Tai Po 

bookshops 

Mandarin Oriental Kiosk 

Bookazine (Discover Bay, 

Canton House, Ifc Mall, 

Harbor City, Kowloon, 

Prince Building, Central, 

Shui On) 

Dymocks (Peak, Ifc Mall, 

Lyndhurst Terrace, 

Harbor City, Kowloon, 

Bonham Road, Repulse 

Bay, Hopewell Centre, 

Citygate) 

Beachside Books 

Hits Media Center 

Metrobook (Elements, 

Kowloon, Mikki, Langham 

Place) 

Nobletimes 

Jumbo Grade (City Plaza, 

Pacific Place, Admiralty, 

Wong Tai Sin) 

Swindon Book Co. Ltd. 

Cham Kee 

Tung Son 

Yung Kee 

Great Food 

Park N' Shop (Baguia 

Villa, Caine Road, Caribbean 

Coast, Citygate, 

Clearwater, Cyberport, 

East Point City, Forview 

Heights, Festival Walk, 

Happy Valley, Hong 

Lok Yuen, Horizon 

Suite Hotel, Jardine 

Lookout, Kennedy Town, 

Metroplaza, Metropolis, 

New Hopewell Centre, 

Peak Road, Shouson Hill, 

South Horizons, Stanley 

Plaza, Tai Tam, Tin Hau 

Temple) 

MACAu 

hotels 

Altira Macau 

Crown Tower 

Galaxy Macau 

Galaxy Macau - Banyan 

Tree Macau 

Galaxy Macau - Hotel Okura 

Grand Hyatt 

Grand Lapa 

Grand Lisboa 

Hard Rock Hotel 

Hotel Lisboa 

Hotel San Tiago 

Mandarin Oriental 

MGM Macau 

Pousada de Mong-Ha, IFT 

Sands Cotai Central 

Sofitel Macau 

StarWorld Hotel 

Wynn Macau 

RestauRants 

11 Cafe 

360° Café 

A Lorcha 

A Petisqueira 

ABA Bar 

Albergue 1601 

Antica Trattoria 

Antonio Restaurant 

Aurora 

Aux Beaux Arts 

Bambu 

Bar Azul 

Bar Florian 

Beijing Kitchen 

Belcanção 

Belon 

Bene 

Cabana 

Café Bela Vista 

Café Deco 

Café Lan 

Café Litoral 

Café of 4 

Cafe Ou Mun 

Café Panorama 

Café Siam 

Camoes Restaurant 

Cascades 

China Rouge 

City Café 

Clube Militar de Macau 

Conrad the Lounge 

Copa Steakhouse 

Cozinha Pinocchio Taipa 

Cuppacoffee Bakery and 

Coffeeshop 

Don Quijote 

Dynasty 8 

EDO Japanese @ One 

Central 

Edo Japanese Restaurant 

Edo Japanese Restaurant 

EDO Japanese Restaurant 

EDO Japanese Restaurant 

COD 

Edo Restautant 

Festiva 

Fogosamba 

Fortune Inn Restaurant 

Ginza Kaiten Sushi 

Golden Court 

Gosto 

Grand Emperor Court 

Grand Imperial Court 

Henri's Gallery 

Hero Chinese Restaurant 

Holiday Inn Lobby Lounge 

Illy Coffee 

Imperial Court 

Inagiku 

Indian Garden Restaurant 

Irish Bar 

Jade Dragon 

Jade Garden 

Jin Yue Xuan 

Kam Lai Heen 

King of Kings 

Kira 

Kwun Hoi Heen 

L'Arc Coffee Shop 

L'Arc Lounge 

L'Arc The Chinese Restaurant 

La Bonne Keure French 

Cuisine 

La Cucina 

La Gondola 

La Kaffa Café 

La Paloma 

Lan 

Laurel 

Laurel 

Lax Café 

Le Cesar 

Lei Garden 

Lemongrass Macau Thai 

Café 

Litoral Restaurant 

Lord's Stow Bakery 

Lua Azul 

Macallan 

Macau Dynasty Café 

Madeira Portuguese 

Majestic Robatayaki 

McSorley's 

Mezza 9 

MGM Patisserie MGM 

Mistral 

MJ Café 

MO Lobby Lounge + Cake 

Shop 

Modern Thai 

Morton's Steakhouse 

Mugs Talk 

Myung Ga Korean Restaurant 

Naam Thai 

Nagomi 

O Porto Interior Restaurante 

Old Shanghai 

Old Taipa Tavern 

Osgatos 

Pacific Coffee 

Pacific Coffee COD 

Pacific Coffee Galaxy 

Pacific Coffee SCC 

Pak Lok 

Palms 

Pâtisserie, Lobby Lounge 

Pearl Lounge 

Petrus 

Pink Grill 

Pizzeria Toscana 

Prive 

R Bar 

Rendezvous 

Restaurante Fernando 

Rossio 

Royal Orchid 

Saffron 

Sakazuki 

Savory Crab 

Shanghainese 456 

Singing Bean 

Sky 21 

Spice Garden 

Square 8 

Starworld Concierge 

Starworld Lobby VIP lounge 

Talay Thai Restaurant 

Tang's Cuisine 

Tenmasa 

Terrace 

Terrazza 

The Crystal Piano 

The Feast 

The Hotness 

The Roadhouse 

The Royal Kitchen 

The Tasting Room by Galliot 

Treasure Palace 

Tsui Wah 

Varanda 

Vasco 

Vergnano Italian 

Vida Rica Bar 

Vida Rica Restaurant 

Wave 

Westin The Lounge 

Windows Restaurant 

Windsor Lounge 

Xin 

Yamazato 

Ying 

Zi Yat Heen 

Clubhouses 

Airport Priority pass lounge 

Caesars Golf Macau 

FIT Club 

French Wine Institute 

Kings Ville 

La Baie du Noble 

La Cite 

Lake View Tower 

L'Arc 

Macau Jockey Club 

Manhattan 

Mariott Vacation Club Asia 

Pacific 

Millennium 

Nova City 

Ocean Garden Clubhouse 

One Central 

The Buckingham 

The Pacifica Garden 

The Praia 

The Residencia 

TIS The International School 

of Macao 

Macau Golf & Country Club 

Qube - Venetian 

Qube - Sands Cotai Central 

pRiVate bankinG 

Bank of China BOC 

BNU 

ICBC 

Wing Hang Bank - Elite 

Banking 

GouRmet shop & 

Wine shop 

Akasaka Ibéricos 

Fu Wan Commercial and 

Industrial Enterprise ltd. 

Gourmet Corner 

Jointek Macau Shop 

MBL 

Pacific Wine Mart 

Prestige Jewelry & Gift 

spas 

Grand Lapa Spa 

Six Senses Spa 

MO The Spa 

Royal Thai Spa 

Malo Clinic Spa 

Four Seasons Spa 

Bodhi Spa 

Altira Spa 

Banyan Tree Spa 

Rock Spa 

Isala Spa 

Crown the Spa 

tRansit 

Air Macau 

Jet Asia 

Macau Jet 

Burgeon Rent a car 

Avis 

Turbojet 

Xunlong 


FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE 

Belon 贝隆 

5 French 

31/F Banyan Tree Macau, Avenida 

Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai, 

Macau 澳门路氹莲花海滨大马路 

澳门悦榕庄31楼 

q (853) 8883 6090 

Bar : Wed to Mon, 6pm – 12am 

Dinner : Wed to Mon, 6pm – 11pm 

Closed on Tuesdays 

A Smart casual 

Café Deco 峰景餐厅 

5 Western 

Level 1 & 2,The Peak Galleria, 

118 Peak Road,The Peak, Hong 

Kong 香港山顶山顶道118号山顶 

广场1-2楼101及201号铺 

q (852) 2849 5111 

Sun to Thurs: 11am to 11pm 

Fri and Sat: 11am to 11:30pm 


China Rouge 红伶 

5 Private Members Club 

Galaxy Hotel, Macau Avenida De 

Cotai, Taipa, Macau 澳门路氹城大 

马路澳门银河酒店 

q (853) 2888 0888 

Closed on Mondays & Tuesdays 

Classic Fine Foods 

Hong Kong Unit 201, Kerry 

Warehouse 4-6 Kwai Tai Road, 

Kwai Chung, N.T, HongKong 香港 

新界葵涌葵泰路4-6号嘉里货仓 

201室 

q (852) 2612 2066 

Dot Cod Seafood Restaurant & 

Oyster Bar 

5 Seafood 

B4, Basement, Prince’s Building, 

10 Chater Road, Central, Hong 

Kong 香港中环遮打道10号太子大 

厦地库B4 

q (852) 2810 6988 

Mon to Sat 7.30 am - 11.30 pm 

A Smart Casual 

Fish Bar 

5 Seafood 

7/F, JW Marriott Hotel Hong Kong, 

Pacific Place, 88 Queensway, 

Admiralty, Hong Kong 香港金钟金 

钟道88号太古广场香港JW万豪酒 

店7楼平台 

q (852) 2810 8366 (Reservations 

required) 

Mon to Sun: 12pm-10:30pm 


140 


restaurant restaurant restaurant listings listings listings 

Gosto 葡轩 

5 Portuguese 

G21, G/F, East Promenade, Galaxy 

Macau, COTAI, Macau 澳门路氹 

城「澳门银河」综合渡假城购 

物大道东地下G21号舖 

q (853) 8883 2221 

Mon to Fri: 12pm – 3pm;6pm – 

11pm Sat, Sun & Public Holiday 

12pm – 11pm 

A Casual 

Golden Flower 京花轩 

Wynn Macau, Rua Cidade de 

Sintra, Nape, Macau 永利澳门酒 

店澳门外港填海区仙德丽街 

q (853) 8986 3663 

Tue.-Fri. 6pm-10:30pm 

Sat.-Sun. 11:30am-2:30pm; 

6pm-10:30pm 

A Casual Elegant 

Guincho a Galera 葡国餐厅 

5 Portuguese 

3/F Lisboa Tower, Hotel Lisboa, 

2-4 Avenida de Lisboa, Praia 

Grande, Macau 澳门南湾葡京路 

2-4号葡京酒店西座3楼 

q (853) 8803 7676 

Lunch: 12pm-02:30pm 

Dinner: 06:30pm- 10:30pm 


Honi Honi 

5 Taki Cocktail Lounge 

3/F Somptueux Central, 52 Wellington 

Street, Central, Hong Kong 

香港中环威灵顿街52号 

Somptueux 3楼 

q (852) 2353 0885 

Mon – Fri: 3:30pm - 2am 

Saturday: 6pm - 2am 

Sunday: 3pm - 11pm 

A Casual 

IFC Lei Garden Restaurant 

中环利苑 

5 Cantonese 

Shop No. 3007-11, 3/F., 

International Finance Centre, 

Hong Kong 香港中环港景街1号国 

际金融中心商场3008至3011店 

q (852) 2295 0238 

11:30am- 3pm; 6pm- 11:30pm 

A Casual 

Jade Dragon 誉珑轩 

5 Chinese 

Level 2, The Shops at The 

Boulevard,City of Dreams,Estrada 

do Istmo, Cotai, Macau 澳门路氹 

连贯公路新濠天地新濠大道二楼 

q (853) 8868 2822 

11am – 3pm; 6pm – 11pm 


Krug Room 库克厅 

5 Progressive Gastronomy/Modern 

1/F, Mandarin Oriental Hong 

Kong, 5 Connaught Road, Central, 

Hong Kong 

香港中环干诺道中5号香港文华东 

方酒店1楼 

q (852) 2825 4014 

Mon-Sat 7:30pm 


L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 

5 French Contemporary 

Shop 315 & 401, The Landmark, 

15 Queen’s Road, Central District, 

Hong Kong 

香港中环德辅道中12-16号置地广 

场4楼401号铺 

q (852) 2166 9000 

Lunch: 12:00pm-2:30pm 

Dinner: 6:30pm-10:30pm 


le Salon De Thé 

de Joël robuchon 

5 French, Bakery, Coffee & Tea 

Shop 

Shop 315 - 3/F, The Landmark, 15 

Queen's Road Central, Hong Kong 

中环皇后大道中 15 号置地广场 3 

楼 315 号铺 

q (852) 2166 9088 

Mon-Sun 8am-8pm (Last Order) 

Lunch: Mon-Sun Starts at 12pm 

Afternoon Tea: 

Mon-Sun Starts at 3pm 

Happy Hour and/or Dinner: 

Mon-Sun Starts at 6pm 

A Casual 

Mayta 

5 Peruvian 

3rd Floor, Grand Progress 

Building,15-16 Lan Kwai Fong, 

Central, Hong Kong 

香港中环兰桂坊15号协兴大厦3楼 

q (852) 2790 0928 

Mon-Sun: 12:00pm-3:00pm; 

6:00pm-11:00pm 


Mirror Restaurant 

5 French 

6th Floor, Tiffan Tower, 199 

Wanchai Road, Wanchai, Hong 

Kong 

舖香港湾仔湾仔道199号天辉中心 

6楼 

q(852) 2573 7288 

(Reservation hotline from 

10:30am-6:00pm) 

Mon-Sat: 12pm- 10:30pm 


MIZUMI 

「泓」日本料理 

5 Japanese 

Wynn Macau, Rua Cidade de 

Sintra, Nape, Macau 

永利澳门酒店澳门外港填海区仙 

德丽街 

q (853) 8986 3663 

Mon.-Sun. 5:30pm-11:30pm 

Closed on Tuesday 


Oyster & Wine Bar 

蚝酒吧 

5 Seafood 

18/F, Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel 

& Towers, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong 

Kong 

香港尖沙咀弥敦道20号香港喜来 

登酒店18楼 

q (852) 2810 6166 

Mon - Thurs: 6:30 pm - 1am; 

Fri - Sat: 6pm - 2am; 

Sun: 12pm - 3pm; 6:30 pm-1am; 

Public Holiday: 6:30pm- 2am 


Renaissance Harbour View Hotel 

Hong Kong 

香港万丽海景酒店 

1 Harbour Rd, Hong Kong 

香港湾仔港湾道 1 号 

q (852) 2802 8888 

Ristorante il Teatro 

帝雅廷意大利餐廳 

5 Italian 

1/F, c, Rua Cidade de Sintra, 

NAPE,Alameda Dutor Carlos 

d'Assumpção 

澳门宋玉生广场(皇朝)外港填海区 

仙德丽街永利澳门酒店一楼 

q (853) 8986 3663 

Mon.-Sun.:18:00-23:30 


Prince Restaurant 

王子饭店 

5 Cantonese 

Shop 209, 2A Canton Road 1881 

Heritage, Tsim Sha Tsui, Kowloon, 

Hong Kong 

香港九龙尖沙咀广东道2A 1881 

Hertitage 209号舖 

q (852) 2366 1308 

Mon- Sat :11:00am- 

5:00pm/6:00pm- Till end 

Sun & Public Holidays : 10:00am 

A Casual 

the lounge & Bar 

5 Bar 

Level 102, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong 

Kong, International Commerce Ctr. 

1 Autsin Road West, Kowloon, 

Hong Kong 

香港尖沙咀柯士甸道西1号环球贸 

易广场 (ICC)香港丽思卡尔顿酒店 

102楼 

q (852) 2263 2270 

Mon-Fri: Buffet Breakfast - 6.30 

a.m. to 10.30 a.m. 

Sat, Sun & Public Holiday:Buffet 

Breakfast - 6.30 a.m. to 11 a.m. 

Lunch – 12 p.m. to 2 p.m. 

Afternoon Tea - 3 p.m. to 6 p.m. 

Dinner – 6 p.m. to 10 p.m. (with 

live Jazz band performance) 

Fri and Sat: 11am to 11:30pm 


tosca 

5 Italian 

Level 102, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong 

Kong, International Commerce 

Ctr., 1 Autsin Road West, 

Kowloon, Hong Kong 

香港尖沙咀柯士甸道西1号环球贸 

易广场 (ICC)香港丽思卡尔顿酒店 

102楼 

q (852) 2263 2270 

Mon-Sat: 12:00 p.m. to 2:30 

p.m;6 :00p.m. to 10:30 p.m. 

Sun only: Brunch - 11:00 a.m. to 

3:00 p.m. Dinner - 6:00 p.m. to 

10:30 p.m. 

Whisk 

5 Contemporary European 

5/F, The Mira Hong Kong, 118 

Nathan Road, Tsim Sha Tsui, 

Hong Kong 

香港尖沙咀弥敦道118号The Mira 

Hong Kong 5楼 

q (852) 2315 5999 

SPONSORED 

Poker café 

A unique poker-themed restaurant 

in Macau. 以撲克為主題, 

最具有澳門特色的主題餐廳。 

5 International 

Avenida de Almeida Ribeiro, 

Avenida de Cinco de Outubro 

No. 147 新馬路十月初五街147號 

q +853 28 924370 

11:00-04:00 

MOP 30 to 80 

restaurant restaurant restaurant listings listings listings 

Hotel okura Macau 

澳门大仓酒店 

Hotel Okura Macau, 

Galaxy Macau , COTAI, Macau 

澳門大倉酒店「」 

綜合渡假城澳門路氹城 

www.hotelokuramacau.com 

the crystal Piano 水晶钢琴 

5 Bar & Lounge 

28/F 

q +853 8883 5109 

18:00–02:00 Closed Wed 

MOP 60 and up 


H www.hotelokuramacau.com 

Sakazuki Sake Bar 清酒 

5 Sake Bar 

2/F 

q +853 8883 5125 

16:00–24:00 Tues–Sun 

MOP 60 and up 



Yamazato 山里裡 

5 Japanese/Kaiseki 

2/F 

q +853 8883 5127 

12:00–22:30 Tues–Sun 

MOP 300 and up 

A Casual Chic 


terrace restaurant 和庭餐厅裡 

5 International 

2/F 

q +853 8883 5122 & 8883 5126 

07:00–24:00 

MOP 100 and up 

A Resort Casual 


2013 

Prize Draw winners 

Pantone 451 • C32 M27 Y57 K0 

Free 1-year subscription to tk (6 issues) 

Carrina Chan, Managing Director, 

Saint Honore Cake Shop Ltd, Hong Kong 

Free Bottle of Moet & chandon champagne: 

Romeo Alfonso, General Manager 

Sutherland Gastronomy, Hong Kong 

$500 Dining Voucher for Prive, Sofitel Macau at Ponte 16 

Geoffrey Thellier, Sales Co-ordinator HK – Macau 

Chocolaterie Valrhona, Hong Kong 

• 

Stephanie Dai, Senior Director – China 

Canada Beef, Shanghai, China 

Box of 15btls of karma cola 

Toby Cooper, The Globe, Hong Kong 

Box of 15btls of Gingerella 

Kenneth Lam, Food & Beverage Manager 

Mr. Steak Concept, Hong Kong 


SubScribe 

25% off 

$336 $252 for your first 6 issues 

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s 

finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. 

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for 

all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer. 

Rate applicable to Hong Kong and Macau delivery only. Inquiries regarding 

overseas subscriptions should be sent to subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com 

contact information 

name 

address 

postal code 

phone 

email 

country 

fax 

Kindly return the completed 

form to: 

Fax 

+852 2642 0009 

Mail 

Tasting Kitchen 

Attention: Terrie Lam 

7A, 22/F, Kodak House II 

39 Healthy East Street 

Quarry Bay, Hong Kong 

Please make checks payable 

to “Tasting Kitchen Ltd.”

144 

dessert 

At Galaxy Macau’s restaurant Gosto, Chef de Cuisine Mario Gil makes Sweet Rice Pudding Mousse, 

a delicious variation on a Portuguese classic. “It’s so simple,” he says. “Rice, cinnamon, milk 

and sugar. I have done a mousse to give it more texture, but the flavors are all there.” 

澳门银河葡轩(Gosto)总厨马俊杰精心改良葡萄牙传统点心,特制滋味诱人的甜饭奶油布丁慕斯。他说: 

「作法很简单,只要准备米、肉桂、牛奶和糖就好了。在保证原汁原味的基础上,做慕斯是让层次更加丰富。」

TK9-SEAFOOD-Nov13-BOOK.pdf

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