TK10 Flavor DNA

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4 

TASTING KITCHEN 10 FLAVOR DNA 

INDIA 

Spice World 

HONG KONG 

Isaan Ingenuity 

FRANCE 

Dark Matter

starter 

At Chachawan Isaan restaurant, Executive Chef Adam Cliff debones a duck, chops it up and fries it 

with its skin and fat. Deep-fried pork skin is added for crunch and texture. The dish is seasoned with 

roasted and ground dried chili, which offers a fierce heat beautifully balanced by the richness of the 

duck. Fragrance and freshness is added with Kaffir lime leaves, long leaf coriander and crisp lettuce. 

「Chachawan」泰式餐馆主打北泰依善菜式 , 行政主厨 Adam Cliff 先为鸭子去骨 , 把鸭肉切片后与鸭皮 

鸭脂同煎 , 再搭配炸猪皮 , 增添酥脆口感 , 随后加入已干烤的磨碎辣椒 , 让火辣的风味巧妙平衡鸭肉 

的丰腴肥美。最后加入泰国青柠叶、长叶胡荽与青翠莴苣叶 , 让整道菜更加香气十足、清新爽口。 

4 

| TK | flavor dna

F L A V O R D N A 

I S S U E # 1 0 

Tasting Kitchen 

www.tasting-kitchen.com 

7A, 22/F, Kodak House II, 39 Healthy East Street 

Quarry Bay, Hong Kong 

Tel: +852 2642 0008 

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s 

finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. 

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for 

all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer. 

Mark Hammons 

FOUNDER & CO-PUBLISHER 

mark@tasting-kitchen.com 

Jenny Man 

GROUP GENERAL MANAGER & CO-PUBLISHER 

jman@tasting-kitchen.com 

Jeff Hammons 

EDITOR AT LARGE 

jeff@tasting-kitchen.com 

Jean Alberti 

CHEF AT LARGE 

jean@tasting-kitchen.com 

GROUP ADVERTISING 

sales@tasting-kitchen.com 

SUBSCRIPTIONS 

subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com 

Joey Cheang 

EDITORIAL COORDINATOR 

CHINESE EDITOR 

Yvonne Cheong 

EDITORIAL ASSISTANT 

Sarah Dallof 

Andrew Dembina 

Margie T. Logarta 

Jo Mckinnon 

Lucy Morgan 

Roland Muksch 

Kate Nicholson 

Inara Sim 

CONTRIBUTING WRITERS 

David Hartung 

DIRECTOR OF PHOTOGRAPHY 

Alicia Beebe 

ART DIRECTOR 

Kennis Yuen 

PRODUCTION MANAGER 

Allen Sun 

PHOTOGRAPHY ASSISTANT 

Timothy Tang 

CIRCULATION & 

SUBSCRIPTION EXECUTIVE 

Rita Ng 

ACCOUNTANT 

TK Director of Photography David Hartung shopped for the spices in his cover photograph 

at the world’s largest spice market in Old Delhi, India (see more of his photos starting on 

page 94). From top to bottom: green cardamon, cumin, coriander seeds, large cardamon, 

cloves, turmeric, chili pepper, nutmeg, star anise, peppercorn and cinnamon. 

封面照片由 TK 摄影总监 David Hartung 采景于全球最大型辣椒市场。由上至下 

罗列分别为 : 绿色小豆蔻 , 小茴香 , 芫荽籽 , 大豆蔻 , 丁香 , 姜黄 , 辣椒 , 

豆蔻 , 八角 , 胡椒 , 肉桂。读者可于本刊第 94 页观赏更多的照片。 

Photograph by David Hartung 

Mary Ng Traverso 

SALES DIRECTOR 

+852 9023 7879 

mary@tasting-kitchen.com 

PRINTING 

ABC Digital Printing Co. LTD. 

9/F, Long Life Industrial Building 

15 Ko Fai Road, Yau Tong 

Kowloon, Hong Kong 

DISTRIBUTION 

Blackstone Concepts Communication 

+ 852 3481 0518 

©Tasting Kitchen 2013. 

All rights reserved 

Grand Presidential Suite 

the TAJ MAHAL, NEW DELHI 

The magnificence of New Delhi, 

as envisioned by Sir Edwin Lutyens 

In the corporate, diplomatic, and social whirl of New Delhi, there is really only one address – The Taj Mahal. 

Which is why it has long been home to heads of state, business titans, and prominent thought leaders. And one 

suite, among many exceptional ones, has captured their attention. Inspired by the designs of Sir Edwin Lutyens, 

the Grand Presidential Suite brings his vision of a magical residence to life. The suite features a generous 3,000 

square ft. layout, ornate appointments and splendid views. Guests will no doubt also delight in the outstanding 

service that is so distinctively Taj. 

Taj forever. 

THE TAJ MAHAL • NEW DELHI 

1 Mansingh Road, New Delhi, India 110 011. Call 1.800.111.825 toll free or the hotel directly, 91.11.2302.6162. 

Visit tajhotels.com. 

6 | TK | flavor dna Voted 2013 Best Hotel in New Delhi by Travel + Leisure U.S. readers.

contents 

contents 

14 – 33 TASTING NEWS 

34 Molteni, Meet Hong Kong • 36 Silver Space • 40 Gifts for Little Gourmets • 41 Christmas Staples 

42 From the Nest of a Phoenix • 46 The Last Supper • 52 G and Tea • 54 Krug and the Culinary Crab 

64 Layers of Delight • 70 Cova’s Treasure Trove • 72 Magnificent Tradition • 74 The Perfect Cure 

80 ’Tis the Season • 84 Isaan Ingenuity • 88 Spice • 94 Spice World • 112 Chôm Chôm Nom Nom 

118 Sichuan Spice Maestro • 124 A Festive Feast • 128 Primal Pleasure • 132 How Do You Like Them Apples • 136 Old World Charm 

138 The Many Guises of Austria’s Grüner Veltliner • 140 Leave It Up to The Chef • 144 Private Dining • 146 Quinoa Lobster Salad • 150 Dark Matter 

154 WHERE TO FIND TK • 156 RESTAURANT LISTINGS • 160 DESSERT 

34 36 40 

80 

84 

46 52 

41 

88 

94 

42 

54 

112 

118 

124 

70 

128 

132 

136 

138 

72 

64 

74 

140 

144 

146 

150 

8 

| TK | flavor dna 

flavor dna | TK | 9

publisher’s note 

Welcome to Tasting Kitchen. 

Season’s Greetings – or should I say 

Seasonings Greetings! 

This holiday TK issue is full of spices and 

flavorings. 

We talk to four talented and ambitious 

chefs about the flavor profile – or Flavor DNA 

– of dishes from India, Sichuan, Vietnam and 

the Isaan region of Thailand. Think cardamom, 

black salt and saffron, red peppercorns, red 

chilies and green chilies, dill, Kaffir lime, 

lemongrass, coriander, galangal and turmeric. 

We take a look at spices in history, and 

how even back in the Middle Ages savvy marketers knew the value of a good story. 

Spice merchants claimed that birds used cinnamon sticks to make giant nests in the 

cliffs above beaches in India, which “cinnamon hunters” then plotted to obtain. 

Today India is still associated with the world’s best spices. In this issue, for 

our first Tasting Destinations feature, TK’s Director of Photography David Hartung 

and Senior Writer Lucy Morgan traveled to Old Delhi to visit the world’s largest 

spice market and to New Delhi to visit one of the world’s top restaurants for modern 

Indian cuisine. 

One of our featured wines is the peppery Austrian Grüner Veltliner. We also 

talk to a New Zealand Wine Master about what makes great wine great, and to a 

leading French Champagne Chef de Cave about the value of patience and restraint. 

There are also some crabs running loose in the issue. A master chef in Macau 

shares his recipe for Quinoa Lobster Salad while five more from Hong Kong and 

Singapore share their favorite crab dishes and culinary musings. 

Happy Holidays, 

C 

M 

Y 

CM 

MY 

CY 

CMY 

K 

MARK HAMMONS 

10 

| TK | flavor dna

chef’s note 

Greetings from Tasting Kitchen. 

Spices are the backbone of any 

cuisine. In a restaurant kitchen, if you run 

out of something as simple as white pepper, 

operations can quickly grind to a halt. People 

say that food is the spice of life, but we would 

not have developed a love for food if it were 

not for spice. 

In my hometown of Belfort, France, a 

gentleman from Pakistan had a store where he 

sold spices, medicinal herbs and coffee. In the 

summer he would grind all kinds of mysterious 

spices, and the town would fill with the smell 

of cinnamon, anardana or ajwain. My grandmother used to buy saffron from him 

every Sunday, which she used to make paella. 

When I was in culinary school in Strasbourg in the early ‘80s spices were not 

that common in the French kitchen. You had the usual suspects like black pepper, 

curry, cinnamon, paprika and a few others but not very much variety. 

I started to get interested in spices when I worked in the West Indies, where 

for over 200 hundred years the Dutch, English and the French dominated the spice 

trade. To this day you will find spices there that are not available in the West. 

My Sous Chef Nigel took me to the spice market on Antigua and later on the 

islands of Guadeloupe and Martinique. They were hundreds of spices there: seeds, 

roots, and powders, each with their own color, texture and smell. I was completely 

taken aback by the range of spices, all presented in big jute sacks and sold by 

beautiful women dressed in colorful clothes. 

It was a feast for the senses, and I bought so many spices there that my car 

smelled like curry for the next three years. 

JEAN ALBERTI 

12 


flavor dna | TK | 13

tasting news 

举杯迎马年 

raise a glass to the 

year of the horse 

GOING ONCE, going twice, gone! A lucky 

eight hundred and eighty-eight specially 

designed bottles of Castiglion del Bosco’s 

Brunello Riserva Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 

2006 vintage will be auctioned off during a 

charity gala on November 25. They’re the 

first edition of the Tuscan vineyard’s annual 

Chinese zodiac series. The to-be-auctioned 

bottles bear a special label by artist Tian 

Shuhan, depicting a graceful horse mid-gallop 

to celebrate 2014’s Year of the Horse. 

Vineyard owner and luxury goods 

designer Massimo Ferragamo will be donating 

funds raised during the charity gala dinner to 

the Hong Kong Breast Cancer Foundation. 

To up the bidding, Ferragamo and Tian 

Shuhan will also be signing bottles 1, 8, 18, 28, 

38, 68, 88 and 888. 

一次 , 两次 , 成交 ! 取中文「八八八」 

吉祥之意 , 意大利 Castiglion del 

Bosco 酒庄将捐出八百八十八支 2006 

年份额外酿造的 Brunello Riserva 

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG 作为 11 

月 25 日的慈善拍卖之用。托斯卡尼酒 

庄首度采用中国生肖作为酒标 , 并邀 

请著名画家田书翰先生配合 2014 为中 

国生肖之马年的主题 , 绘制一匹优雅 

奔驰的骏马作为酒标专属纪念图案。 

酒庄主人 , 同时也是知名设计师 

的 Massimo Ferragamo, 将在慈善拍 

卖晚会为香港乳癌基金会筹措善款。 

为了筹得更高金额 , 

Ferragamo 和田书翰先生将于编 

号 1 号和尾数为幸运数字 8 的 8, 18, 

28, 38, 68, 88 and 888 等酒标上亲笔 

签名。 

欢乐佳节马拉松 

holiday 

mirathon 

WITH SUMPTUOUS holiday menus across 

three restaurants – Yamm, WHISK and the 

Michelin-starred Cuisine Cuisine – and sweet 

treats at COCO cafe and patisserie, The Mira 

Hotel has your gourmet Christmas, Boxing 

Day and New Year dining covered. For those 

celebrating at home or buying for others, 

COCO has Christmas roasts, hampers and 

luxurious pastries crafted by Executive Pastry 

Chef Jean-Marc Gaucher. 

Start your New Year’s Eve celebrations 

under the stars with a BBQ at Vibes and 

then head to Room One to dance until dawn. 

As the celebratory season winds down, 

get pampered at MiraSpa or check in to 

the luxurious MiraSpa Suite for a night. The 

holiday offerings at The Mira Hong Kong 

would put even the Grinch himself into a 

festive mood. 

欢庆佳节的时刻即将到来 ,The Mira Hong 

Kong 三家餐厅 Yamm、WHISK 及米其林星 

级餐厅 Cuisine Cuisine 均推出丰盛的佳节特 

餐 ,COCO 糕饼店更推出各式甜蜜点心 , 让 

客人从圣诞节、节礼日到新年 , 再也不用 

费尽心思寻找美食。若想在家庆祝或挑选 

佳节赠礼 ,COCO 饼房行政总厨 Jean-Marc 

Gaucher 精心准备了圣诞烧烤大餐、应景礼 

物篮及奢华糕点 ; 除夕夜则可先至 Vibes 餐 

厅享受星空 BBQ, 再到 Room One 通宵达旦 

热舞狂欢。随后还可选择去 MiraSpa 好好放 

松、犒赏自己 , 或至 MiraSpa Suite 豪华套房 

入住一晚 , 为连续假期画下完美句点。 The 

Mira Hong Kong 琳琅满目的佳节献礼 , 即使 

是讨厌圣诞节的绿精灵 , 也会忍不住满心期 

盼节庆到来 ! 

14 

| TK | flavor dna

tasting news 

C 

M 

Y 

CM 

MY 

CY 

CMY 

美「钻」白松露 

white diamond dining 

K 

DIAMONDS ARE A GIRL’S BEST FRIEND and chefs like them 

too. In the culinary world, the Alba white truffle reigns 

supreme. Known as “white diamonds,” these precious truffles 

hail from Northern Italy and are as aromatic as they are 

flavorful. They’re the star of the show this season at Aurora, 

Altira Macau’s signature Italian restaurant. 

The White Truffle at Aurora menu, available until 12 

January 2014, furthers the mission of Chef de Cuisine Michele 

dell’ Aquila to redefine Italian food for guests. He’s right at 

home thanks to October’s White Alba Truffle Tour during 

which he worked alongside three other talented chefs. This 

time around, dell’ Aquila alone shines with his menu featuring 

a delicious diversity of dishes, each serving as a stage upon 

which the truffles can enjoy the spotlight: slow-cooked 

organic egg on Jerusalem artichoke puree with white truffle; 

tagliolini with butter, 36-month parmesan cheese fondue 

and white truffle; and Bresse chicken breast and mushroom 

casserole accompanied by white truffle and Langhe polenta. 

The rich truffle flavor even extends into the dessert course 

with traditional tiramisu served with white truffle. 

Full menu for 

MOP 2,480 per person, 

a la carte dishes from 

MOP 228. 

丰盛套餐每位澳门币 

2,480 元 , 单点白松露 

菜式由澳门币 228 元起 

+853 2886 8868. 

钻石或许是女孩最好的朋友 , 但在料理界 , 阿尔 

巴白松露才堪称是王冠上的宝石。阿尔巴白松露 

人称「白色钻石」, 是来自意大利北部的珍贵极品 , 

不仅美味 , 香气更是独特出众 , 最近一跃成为澳 

门新濠锋酒店招牌意大利餐厅「奥罗拉」的本季 

主打星。 

奥罗拉行政总厨 Michele dell’ Aquila 向来 

追求别创新格的意式美馔 , 这次的白松露特餐同 

样巧思独具。 dell’ Aquila 曾在十月与三位才华 

洋溢的厨师合作 , 联手推出阿尔巴白松露巡回盛 

宴 , 因此料理白松露实可谓驾轻就熟。现在由 

dell’ Aquila 独自大展厨艺 , 推出各式各样美味 

佳肴 , 菜式彷如舞台 , 白松露就是舞台上大放异 

彩的焦点。精致菜色包括耶路撒冷朝鲜蓟慢煮有 

机鸡蛋佐白松露、奶油意式宽扁面佐三十六个月 

帕玛森芝士酱与白松露、布列斯鸡胸蘑菇砂锅佐 

白松露及意式玉米粥 , 甚至盛在玻璃杯中的提拉 

米苏也点缀了白松露 , 让甜点也沾染白松露的馨 

香。奥罗拉的白松露套餐自即日起供应至 2014 

年 1 月 12 日。 

COURTESY OF AURORA 

16 

| TK | flavor dna

tasting news 

午茶创新意 

creative tea 

MIXOLOGISTS are in their element when 

competing to develop the next trendy 

cocktail. High tea wouldn’t seem to be 

conducive to the same kind of creative oneupsmanship. 

But then again, why not? Why 

shouldn’t professional chefs battle to create 

the next hot high tea? Dilmah encourages 

creative cooking, thinking and drinking 

with their Hong Kong & Macau Real High 

Tea Challenge. The challenge is this: to put 

together an original menu for a traditional 

high tea using tea as a main ingredient. 

This will be the eighth year of the Real 

High Tea Challenge, which has been held 

previously in a number of exotic destinations 

across the globe. Memorably successful 

creations from past Challenges include teainfused 

chai macarons, tea-candied macadamias 

and lychee and strawberry tea sangria. 

Winners receive a seven-day VIP tour of Sri 

Lanka and as well as a slot to compete in 

the Real High Tea Global Challenge. 

C 

M 

Y 

CM 

MY 

CY 

CMY 

K 

称职的调酒师能创造出一杯杯新潮、带动流 

行的鸡尾酒 , 而隐身在厨房的下午茶师傅首 

重承袭传统作法。但为何下午茶不能有创意 ? 

难道下午茶师傅就不能标新立异 ? 为了鼓励 

制作、思维与饮茶的创新 , 全球第三大茶叶 

公司 Dilmah 于香港和澳门举办下午茶挑战赛。 

参赛者必须以茶为主轴 , 结合传统下午茶精 

神和呈现方式 , 创作出新口味的茶点或茶饮。 

下午茶挑战赛已于全球各地不同城市举 

办 , 今年来到第八届 , 过去几届的得奖者也 

创造出许多令人难忘的美味茶点 , 像是印度 

香料奶茶口味马卡龙、茶味坚果、草莓荔枝 

红茶口味桑格莉亚。此次挑战赛获胜者可得 

到为期七天的斯里兰卡 VIP 之旅 , 同时晋级 

参加在斯里兰卡举办的全球下午茶竞赛 , 和 

来自各地的好手一较高下。 

realhightea.dilmahtea.com/2013/hk/ 

COURTESY OF DILMAH 

18 

| TK | flavor dna

tasting news 

水彩缤纷梦幻圣诞 

a watercolor christmas 

THIS HOLIDAY SEASON, recipients of Champagne Drappier’s limited-edition gift 

set won’t be tearing through the packaging to get to the fine bubbly inside. In fact, 

admiring the outside of the 2013 Carte d’Or gift set is part of the experience. 

Hong Kong’s own Benny Au is the artist behind the eye-catching watercolor on 

the box of the gift set. His knowledge of paper-making also led to the creation of the 

limited edition label positioned right above the Champagne house’s iconic yellow and 

gold bottle label. Just 1,200 sets will find their way into Hong Kong shops. 

The packaging is not just beautiful; it’s also symbolic of the process of creating 

a bottle of Champagne Drappier. The triangular box represents the relationship the 

winemaker has with the climate and soil. The five color options stand for elements 

ranging from the rich quince flavor of the Champagne to the chalk soil in Urville, 

France where the house was started. 

HKD $370 per set www.champagne-drappier.com 

2013 年限量版卓皮耶 (Drappier) Carte d’Or 顶级香槟 

礼盒于圣诞时期推出 , 包装赏心悦目令人着迷 , 爱不 

释手。 

礼盒上的水彩图案出自香港本地艺术家区德诚之 

手 , 吸睛度十足。卓皮耶也善用他制纸方面的专业 , 

在酒庄知名的金黄酒标上方附加了限量版的特别标牌。 

限量版的包装不只美仑美奂 , 更可从中一窥卓皮 

耶香槟的酿造奥秘。三角形的酒盒代表酿酒人、天气 

及土壤三者间密切的关系。可供选择的五种颜色则有 

法国 Urville 地区的白垩土、香槟丰富的榲桲果味及酒 

庄起家就有的葡萄藤叶等多种意含。 

随着佳节脚步接近 ,2013 年卓皮耶 Carte d’Or 顶 

级香槟礼盒也将于香港特定商城上架 , 限量 1,200 份 , 

我们开始期待收到这份大礼的幸运儿会有多兴奋了 ! 

C 

M 

Y 

CM 

MY 

CY 

CMY 

K 

天书指南美食开路 

from the page to the plate 

DISCOVERING SINGAPORE is fun. Discovering Singapore 

by snacking, sipping and savoring the country’s wide array 

of cuisines is even better. Now, the half million Hong Kong 

residents who visit Singapore every year are free to sink 

their teeth into the new Singapore Food Guide. 

“Hong Kong visitors are highly sophisticated visitors 

and are known to be big foodies. Wherever they travel, they 

seek out local dishes as a way to explore and experience 

the unique local culture,” says Markus Tan, Singapore Tourism 

Board Area Director for Southern China, Hong Kong & 

Macau. 

The Singapore Food Guide, written by HK food critic and blogger KC Koo, covers 

15 types of Singaporean cuisine including prawn mee, fried carrot cake, rojak and fried 

crab. Koo conducted secret taste tests everywhere from humble hawker stands to 

five-star establishments. His 50 favorites are laid out in the guide, a road map of the 

country’s most delicious eats. 

Available at the Singapore Tourism Board, Causeway Bay 

可于新加坡旅游局铜锣湾办事处索取。 

www.yoursingapore.com/foodguide 

探险新加坡是种令人愉悦的体验 , 若能深入街头巷尾 , 

像个在地人般尝遍市井小吃 , 更是惊喜连连。现在 , 

新出版的「新加坡美食天书」让每年到新加坡观光的 

五十万香港人有了穿梭大街小巷、满足口腹之欲的绝 

佳理由。 

新加坡旅游局中国华南、香港及澳门区处长陈振 

发说 :「香港旅客对美食拥有极高的品味 , 也同时有一 

张挑剔的嘴 , 无论他们在哪里旅行 , 都会游走市町街 

坊寻访当地美食 , 当作探索、体验在地文化的方式。」 

由香港知名美食评论家同时也是部落客的 KC Koo 

所撰写的「新加坡美食天书」, 网罗十五大类新加坡美 

食 , 囊括虾面、炒萝卜糕、罗惹、辣炒螃蟹等风味特色。 

KC Koo 的足迹踏遍整座花园城市 , 介绍的觅食点从世 

代经营传统小吃摊 , 以至闻名世界的餐厅饭店 , 一应 

俱全。他在书中推荐的五十多家餐厅小吃 , 可说是赏 

味新加坡的最佳指南。 

COURTESY OF DRAPPIER 

20 

| TK | flavor dna

tasting news 

纽西兰顶级好酒 

new zealand’s best 

Wine Master Bob Campbell recently visited the Tasting Room at the City 

of Dreams in Macau for a dinner featuring some of New Zealand’s greatest 

wines, each of which he has rated at ninety points or higher. He took time 

to share with TK his thoughts about what makes a great wine great. 

When you taste wine specifically to judge its quality 

and come up with a rating, do you always follow a set 

routine? 

Yes, I think that’s very important. For example I 

always taste wines from 9:00 am. No more than twenty 

wines at a time. I use the same glasses (Riedel Magnum) 

and taste in the same spot. I note the color, consider the 

flavor descriptors and then assess texture and length 

before considering the wine in holistic terms, for example 

how does it compare to others in its class, is it good value 

and what food would I match it with. 

What are the key qualities that separate a great 

wine from a good wine? Do they assert themselves 

immediately through a wine’s bouquet and taste, or 

do you sometimes have to get to know a great wine 

to appreciate it? 

Great wines are usually fairly obvious. They tend to 

have power (most easily assessed by the wine’s length of 

flavor), complexity, and an appropriate texture. They also 

have what I call the “X” factor that is less easily measured, 

probably slightly subjective but very obvious to me when 

I experience it. It is true that some wines can grow in 

stature the more I taste them. That is particularly true of 

wines that are built for long term cellaring. They can often 

COURTESY OF PHOTONEWZEALAND.COM 

品酒大师 Bob Campbell 最近受邀 , 一访澳门新濠天地御膳房 (Tasting Room) 享用晚 

宴 , 对于席间搭配的多款纽西兰顶级葡萄酒惊艳不已 , 个个拿下九十或更高的分 

数。 Bob Campbell 特别接受 TK 专访 , 分享美酒之所以不凡的奥妙之处。 

品酒时需要评鉴品质好坏打分数 , 是否有顶级葡萄酒与一般好酒相比好在哪里 ? 凭 

套固定的品评流程 ? 

借自身酒香及味道就能脱颖而出 , 还是需 

没错 , 那正是重点所在。举例来说 , 早上九点要对其有一定了解才能领会 ? 

后我才会开始品酒 , 一次不能超过二十种酒 ; 顶级美酒妙不可言 , 最简单的评判方式就是 

只用 Riedel Magnum 酒杯 , 从同样的地方入看余韵的维持时长、复杂性高 , 而且质地恰 

口品尝。我会注记色泽、思考味道指标 , 同时到好处。对此我有特别触角 , 异常敏感 , 说 

品评酒的质地和余韵 , 最后再从整体观点来看来比较难以量测或偏个人主观 , 但于我而言 , 

这款酒 , 例如与同等级其他酒款相较之下表现确是一试便知高下。不过确实有些酒是喝的 

如何、是否有其价值或可与何种食物搭配等等。次数多了 , 分数会越来越高 , 陈年窖藏酒就 

22 



tasting news 

be a little hard to assess when first released. Also some 

wines grow in the glass. That’s particularly true of red 

wines sealed with a screw cap and very young wines that 

have lots of potential. 

Every wine lover has a certain personality and specific 

preferences. What are your own unique preferences 

when it comes to wine? 

If you mean wine style I must confess that Pinot Noir 

is my “desert island wine” with Riesling a close second. 

However I appreciate great examples of all wine styles 

from Champagne to sherry. 

What makes the best New Zealand wines great? 

I need to answer that by referencing specific wine 

types. Sauvignon Blanc: the best are intense, pungently 

aromatic, have purity and an array of subtle flavors. The 

best wines have energy. Riesling: power, purity and an 

exquisite tension between subtle sweetness and knifeedged 

acidity. Chardonnay: an emphasis on fruit flavor rather 

than winemaker influence such as oak, buttery characters 

and yeast autolysis. Must have power and complexity with 

a silken texture. Pinot Noir: power, a silken texture and 

an array of flavors that are displayed like the colors on a 

peacock’s tail. Syrah and blended reds: power, intensity, 

density, complexity and the ability to age gracefully. 

KEVIN JUDD / AUSTIN LANGFORD 

是很好的例子 , 此酒款若刚上市就被品评确 

有难度。另外 , 也有在玻璃杯中味道更胜一 

筹的酒 , 瓶盖瓶装、年轻的红酒就是最好的 

例子 , 可以说潜力无穷。 

葡萄酒爱好者都有独特的个性及特殊喜好。 

您是否有特别偏爱的酒 ? 

如果是葡萄品种的话黑皮诺绝对是我的第一 

名 , 有如「沙漠绿洲」一般的好酒 , 而雷司 

令以些微差距排第二。总的来说各式酒种 , 

从香槟到雪莉 , 只要是好酒我都爱。 

纽西兰顶级葡萄酒好在哪里 ? 

容我用几个特殊的葡萄酒种来回答。白苏维 

翁 : 气味强烈、带呛鼻酒香 , 味道纯粹、蕴 

含多种细致底味 , 顶级佳酿能量十足。雷司 

令 : 酒精浓度高而纯粹 , 雅致甜味与刀锋般 

锐利的酸度带来鲜明对比。夏多内 : 果味大 

胜酿酒时掺带的橡木桶、绵密奶香及酵母分 

解等味道。酒精浓度及复杂性一定要高 , 同 

时带有丝般质地。黑皮诺 : 浓度高、丝绸质地 , 

各式味道开展有如孔雀开屏的绚烂色彩。希 

拉及混酿红酒 : 浓度高、味道强、纯度及复 

杂性高 , 越陈越香。 

24 



tasting news 

顶级香槟之夜 

chef’s table champagne 

花落谁家 

and the winners are… 

TASTING KITCHEN FOUNDER MARK HAMMONS 

welcomed world-renowned Champagne expert 

Richard Juhlin and G.H. Mumm Chef de Cave Didier 

Mariott to a special Chef’s Table dinner held on 

Monday, October 21 at L’Atelier de Robuchon. 

Joining the dinner were VIP chefs and hotel 

managers from the Mandarin Oriental, Island 

Shangri-la, the Ritz Carlton, Marriott Hotels, W Hotel 

and The Seasons. 

Guests enjoyed a special menu pairing world-class 

Robuchon dishes with G.H. Mumm Champagnes, 

i ncluding the newly released G.H. Mumm Le Millésime 

2006 and G.H. Mumm Brut Sélection C uvée. 

Mr. Juhlin called the cuvée “a youthful, perfectly 

orchestrated Champagne from five of the best Grand 

Cru villages in Champagne.” The blend achieves 

power and minerality with Pinot Noir from Verzenay, 

Aÿ and Bouzy, and Chardonnay from Cramant and 

Avize. “A blend of reserve wines and specific sugar 

content succeed in extracting the power and charm 

of each terroir,” said Mr. Mariott. 

「Tasting Kitchen」创办人 Mark Hammons 

十月二十一日于法式餐厅 L’Atelier de 

Robuchon 设宴款待全球知名的香槟专家 

Richard Juhlin 及法国知名品牌 G.H. Mumm 

酿酒师 Didier Mariott。 

出席宴会的还有来自文华东方酒店、港 

岛香格里拉酒店、丽思卡尔顿酒店、万豪酒 

店、W 饭店及 The Seasons 的重量级主厨及 

经理级大人物。 

宾客一边品尝由享誉世界的 Robuchon 主 

厨特制的晚宴套餐 , 一边细评 G.H. Mumm 

顶级佳酿 , 包括新推出的「2006 年 G.H. 

Mumm Le Millésime」及「G.H. Mumm Brut 

Sélection Cuvée 」。后者滋味更让 Juhlin 赞 

不绝口 :「这款年轻香槟 , 且可说是香槟区 

五大最佳葡萄庄园的完美混酿结晶。」这款 

充满泥土芬芳的佳酿分别由 Verzenay,Aÿ 

及 Bouzy 酒庄的黑皮诺葡萄 ,Cramant 及 

Avize 酒庄的霞多丽葡萄混酿而成。 Mariott 

也称赞道 :「当中的甜度充分体验出不同酒 

庄各自的风土 , 实属完美搭配。」 

RED DOG STUDIO 

DAVID RUANO 

IT’S ONE OF THE HOTTEST LISTS to be on and 

therefore one of the toughest to get on. However, 

fine-dining foodies can score a seat at Asia’s 50 

Best Restaurants’ award ceremony coming up on 

February 24. Held at Capella Singapore, it’s a full-day 

event packed with workshops and a forum attended 

by key industry figures and some of the world’s most 

eminent chefs. It culminates with the announcement 

of 2014’s winners in mouthwatering categories like 

Best Pastry Chef, the One to Watch Award and The 

S. Pellegrino Best Restaurant in Asia. 

Winners are decided by the votes of 900 international 

stars of the dining industry including food 

critics, restaurateurs and chefs. Each gets just seven 

votes, four of which have to be cast outside of the 

individual’s home region. The big winners of Asia’s 

50 Best Restaurants will include not just chefs and 

restaurants, but also the diners who land soon-to-be 

coveted reservations. 

www.theworlds50best.com/asia 

亚洲料理界公认最难取得、竞争最激烈的 

奖项 , 非 2014 年 2 月 24 日在新加坡嘉佩 

乐酒店举办的「亚洲五十最佳餐厅」竞赛 

莫属。当天活动包括安排多场研讨会及由 

业界指标性人物和知名厨师主持的论坛。 

活动最高潮莫过于宣布各个奖项 - 最佳糕 

点师傅、最佳新人奖及圣沛黎洛亚洲最佳 

餐厅的幸运得主。 

冠军将由九百位来自全球料理界举足 

轻重的食评家、餐厅经营者和主厨票选产 

生。每位评审手中握有七张选票 , 其中四 

张必须投给来自不同地区、不同国家的入 

围者。这场赛事的赢家 , 包括将获得亚洲 

最佳餐厅荣耀的主厨和餐厅 , 他们未来的 

订位热况可想而知。而众多翘首以待的饕 

客也将有一饱口福的大好机会。 

26 



tasting news 

欢庆时刻在「金」宵 

holiday meals as good as gold 

With his upcoming holiday menus at Gold by Harlan Goldstein 

in the LKF Tower, Chef Harlan Goldstein is breaking both eggs and customs. 

YOU WON’T FIND ANY TURKEY on the Christmas 

Eve Dinner menu at Gold by Harlan Goldstein. 

Instead, diners will delight in slow-cooked French 

Christmas Capon served with sausage stuffing, 

cranberry and natural jus. “A lot of people say you 

should have turkey but I prefer capon. Cranberry 

sauce, walnuts, panettone, and eggnog also make 

me feel festive!” 

The alternate main course is one of Chef Harlan 

Goldstein’s favorites: beef cheek slow-cooked for 

eighteen hours to give it a “melt in your mouth” 

sensation. “This is really a mama’s dish, served 

with spiced sauce to get you in the mood,” he says. 

The multi-course meal is reminiscent of Goldstein’s 

childhood Christmas celebrations which would run 

late into the night and end “with a very full belly.” 

2/F, 77 Wyndham Street, Central 

香港中环云咸街 77 号 2 楼 

+852 2530 1600 

澳洲新美馔 

down under dining 

NEED PROOF that the new Aussie eatery 

BellBrook, bistro oz by Laris doesn’t take 

itself too seriously? Look no further than the 

“Convict Game” printed on the back of the 

restaurant’s menu. Based on the country’s 

past as a penal colony, players cross colored 

squares hoping to avoid the shackles which 

will send them back several spaces and 

require them to knock back a shot. 

When it comes to food and flavor, 

though, BellBrook doesn’t play around. 

Flip the menu over or look to the dailyspecial 

blackboards to discover indigenous 

specialties and other palate-pleasing dishes 

like wild Tasmanian globe artichokes and 

Aussie steak tartare. They’re served tapas 

style, for sharing, as are BellBrook’s Table 

Salads, Bigger Bites and desserts. 

Everything from the food to the colorful 

tile work to the canning jars in the refrigerator 

is the work of celebrity chef David Laris 

(right) and restaurant group Dining Concepts. 

Serving delicious food with a sense of fun 

and laidback charm? Convicted. 

David Laris 

想亲自体验新开幕的澳洲餐厅 BellBrook 

Bistro Oz by Laris 全新的美味料理 ? 先看看 

菜单背面的「囚犯游戏」。这个游戏的设计 

来自于澳洲殖民历史 , 从起点开始逐步完 

成所有彩色的正方格 , 一边前进一边避免 

停在画有脚镣的格子上。如果不巧停到有 

脚镣的格子 , 就必须退回几格并罚酒一杯。 

不过 , 一提到料理和风味 ,BellBrook 绝 

不马虎。仔细阅读菜单和店内黑板上手写的 

每日特餐 , 就能发现这家餐厅与众不同、口 

味道地的澳洲菜 , 像是野生塔斯马尼亚朝 

鲜蓟和澳洲鞑靼牛肉。餐点以小菜方式小 

份量呈盘 , 让同桌用餐的客人能轻松共享料 

理。店内的一切也记录着主厨 David Laris 和 

Dining Concepts 对客人的用心。想要品尝美 

食也想来点轻松愉悦的气氛 , 这里统统都有 ! 

COURTESY OF BELLBROOK 

COURTESY OF GOLD BY HARLAN GOLDSTEIN 

By contrast, says Goldstein, his New Year’s 

Eve menu features lighter dishes, so that diners 

can enjoy lots of great wine and Champagne. “You 

will be able to hit the midnight toast till six in the 

morning.” 

The New Year’s Eve menu sparkles with dishes 

ranging from sushi-style Spanish blue fin tuna 

and foie gras to wild mushroom consommé with 

fresh porcini and black truffle gnocchi. The Spanish 

Mediterranean flavors promise a satisfying kick start 

to 2014. 

Above: 

Spanish blue 

fin tuna and 

foie gras, with 

beetroot, black 

ink crumbs 

and baby 

cress salad 

西班牙蓝鳍吞 

拿及鹅肝伴红 

菜头、墨汁脆片 

及香芹苗沙律 

Right: Melt-in- 

Your-Mouth 

Wagyu Beef 

Cheek 入口即 

溶的牛面颊肉 

Christmas Eve Dinner 

平安夜晚宴 | HK$980 

New Year’s Eve Dinner 

除夕晚宴 | HK$1,380 

Level 2, LKF Tower 

33 Wyndham Street, 

Central Hong Kong 

香港中环云咸街 33 号 

LKF Tower 2 楼 

(852) 2869-9986 

火鸡将在 Gold by Harlan Goldstein 的 

圣诞大餐中缺席 , 取而代之的 , 是嫩 

烤法式春鸡镶腊肠佐红莓酱。「许多 

人认为圣诞夜少不了火鸡 , 但我就钟 

情于春鸡 , 伴上红莓酱汁、胡桃、潘 

娜朵妮 ( 意式圣诞面包 )、甜蛋酒 , 

总能让我沉浸在欢乐愉悦的节庆气氛 

中。」 

另一道主菜是主厨 Harlan 

Goldstein 的私藏料理之一 - 红酒炖牛 

颊。牛颊在文火中细煮慢炖十八小时 , 

颊肉充分吸收酱汁的精华 , 让它拥有 

「入口即化」的绵密口感。主厨说 :「牛 

颊是妈妈的拿手菜 , 浓郁的炖煮香气 

在空气中弥漫着 , 宣告圣诞的到来。」 

这份怀旧套餐是主厨 Harlan Goldstein 

对小时候圣诞记忆的忠实呈现 , 保证 

每一道作品都精彩绝伦、绝无冷场。 

不同于圣诞套餐 ,Harlan 

Goldstein 欢庆新年推出的除夕套餐较 

为清爽 , 让用餐者能保留胃口 , 尽情 

享用餐厅精心严选的美酒和香槟。「就 

好像置身于「酒足饭饱 , 欲罢不能 , 

不知东方之天际白」之境 , 享受迎新 

的美好时光。 

除夕套餐将有黑鲔鱼寿司、鹅肝、 

牛干菌黑松露野菇浓汤 , 让富有西班 

牙风味的地中海料理为 2014 年完美 

揭开序幕。 

28 



tasting news 

绿汀小舍 

country cottage oasis 

CHRIS WOODYARD and BRONWYN CHEUNG, the 

husband and wife team (opposite page) behind 

Madame Sixty Ate, are welcoming a new 

member to their culinary family with the launch 

of Madam S’ate. Located in Elements Shopping 

Mall, the cuisine is contemporary French with 

selections designed for all-day eats, leisurely 

weekend brunches, lovely dinners, and quick 

coffees and pastries. Heading up the kitchen 

is New Zealand native George Scott-Toft (left), 

who has cooked his way through the kitchens 

of a long list of highly acclaimed restaurants in 

Sydney, Melbourne and London. 

Designed as a play on a country cottage, 

Madam S’ate aims to provide a homey oasis in 

the hubbub of bustling Hong Kong. Patrons can 

relax with a glass of wine from the restaurant’s 

extensive list on the alfresco courtyard or 

enjoy a boutique beer or Champagne indoors 

at the bar. It’s an atmosphere that promises to 

fool diners into thinking they’re vacationing in 

the French countryside, if only for a few hours. 

Chris Woodyard 和 Bronwyn Cheung 夫妻档 , 

继 Madame Sixty Ate 餐厅之后 , 新开另一家姐 

妹餐厅 Madam S’ate。餐厅位在圆方购物中心 , 

全日供应法式料理 , 成为周末早午餐、下午茶、 

晚餐最佳新选择。来自纽西兰的主厨 George 

Scott-Toft, 曾任职于许多知名餐厅 , 国家遍及 

悉尼、墨尔本及伦敦。 

Madam S’ate 外观就像间乡村度假别墅 , 

在熙攘繁忙的香港都会中打造如在家一般舒适、 

令人身心放松的绿洲。不论是选择户外雅座小 

酌 , 或是在吧台点杯啤酒或香槟 , 这里舒服闲 

适的空间和气氛可以让人暂时远离尘嚣 , 仿佛 

置身法国乡间别墅般悠闲自在。 

Roof Deck, Civic Square, Elements, 1 Austin Road West, Tsim Sha Tsui 

香港九龙尖沙咀柯士甸道一号圆方的天台演荟广场 

+852 2537 7555, www.sate.com.hk 

COURTESY OF MADAME S’ATE 

30 

| TK | flavor dna

tasting news 

味觉之周 

taste week 

Jean-Luc Petitrenaud introduces a new generation of 

bon vivants to the French art of cooking and eating well. 

FRANCE’S CULTURAL PROGRAM to promote 

为推广法国料理并推展烹饪 , 味觉之周 (La 

French cuisine and spark an interest in 

Semaine du Goût) 法国饮食教育活动 10 

gastronomy was launched in Macau on 

月 28 日在澳门举行 , 由法国著名电视人 

the 28 th of October. Known as La Semaine 

兼美食评论家 Jean-Luc Petitrenaud 主持 , 

du Goût (Taste Week), it was created by 

让儿童与年轻人学习饮食的艺术。 Jean- 

French TV personality and food writer 

Luc Petitrenaud 在澳门科技大学校园 The 

Jean-Luc Petitrenaud as a way to educate 

Seasons 教学餐厅的宁静庭园中 , 畅谈他 

children and young adults about how to 

对大中华区味觉之周的看法。 

eat well. In the peaceful gardens of The 

「二十四年前我想到味觉之周这项计 

Seasons restaurant, a beautiful space 

划 , 和当时法国总理利昂内尔 · 若斯潘谈过。 

tucked away in a corner of the Macau 

他说 : 好 , 到巴黎来吧 , 带五百位厨师和 

University of Science and Technology 

工匠来试试看。但如果不成功 , 这计画就 

campus, Petitrenaud met with the press 

一笔勾销。」 

to talk about his vision for La Semaine du 

Petritrenaud 的计划很简单 : 由一位 

Goût in the Greater China region. 

厨师造访学校 , 和孩子解释优质、新鲜食 

“When I came up with the idea for La 

材的重要 , 鼓励他们认识、品尝不同食品 , 

Semaine du Goût twenty-four years ago, 

然后仔细思考自己吃了什么。结果计划奏 

the French Prime Minister, Lionel Jospin, 

效 , 味觉之周很成功 , 这几年规模持续扩 

told me, ‘Fine – come to Paris. Bring five 

大 , 去年法国就有约 7,000 名厨师造访法 

hundred chefs and artisans and see if it is 

国各地的学校。 

a success. But if it does not work out, then 

Petritrenaud 说 :「今年这项计划第一 

we scratch it.’” 

次在亚洲举办 , 我们希望看到孩子的反应 , 

Petritrenaud’s plan was simple: a 

然后明年再扩大举办。」 

chef would visit a school to explain to the 

Petritrenaud 依然让计划保持单纯。 

children the importance of using good, 

fresh ingredients; to encourage them to 

recognize and taste different produce; 

and to think carefully about what they 

eat. It worked. La Semaine du Goût was a 

success, and the program has continued 

to grow. Last year in France around 7,000 

chefs delivered classes to schools all over 

France. 

“This year we are bringing the 

program to Asia for the first time,” says 

Petitrenaud. “We want to see how the 

children respond and then next year we 

will make the program bigger.” 

La Semaine du Goût in France 

He continues to keep it simple. A understand the flavor spectrum within 

bread-making class is a hit with a keen one food group. 

group of middle school children who “The most important thing is curiosity,” 

love working with the sticky dough. “We says Petitrenaud. “Don’t just eat mindlessly, 

explain how to make dough but then we guzzling like an animal. Think, and look and 

let the children shape it however they wonder about what you eat. I want La Semaine 

du Goût to spark curiosity in its par- 

like. They really enjoyed it!” 

In a tasting class, an attentive chef ticipants, not just for the cuisine of France 

encourages the children to sniff diffferent but for the food they encounter wherever 

coffee beans and to taste chocolate with they go. You need to eat with your brain 

different levels of cocoa to help them and heart as well as your mouth.” 

Jean-Luc Petitrenaud 

其中有堂面包课大受中学生欢迎 , 大家兴 

致勃勃地揉捏湿黏的面团。「我们先说明 

怎么制作面团 , 然后让孩子随自己的意思 

切割面团。他们都玩得很高兴 !」在食品 

鉴赏课中 , 一位厨师鼓励孩子嗅闻咖啡豆 , 

并品尝可可含量不同的巧克力 , 让他们了 

解一种食物可以有多种不同程度的风味。 

Petitrenaud 说 :「最要紧的是有好奇 

心 , 吃的时候要用心 , 不要像动物一样狼 

吞虎咽。吃东西时要思考、观察、懂得欣 

赏。我希望味觉之周的活动能燃起参与者 

的好奇心 , 不仅是对法国料理 , 到任何地 

方吃任何食物都一样。吃东西不仅要用嘴 

巴 , 也要用脑、用心。」 

32 



inspired living 

登陆香港 

molteni, 

meet 

hong kong 

THE ANNOUNCEMENT is more than enough 

to get any chef’s heart racing: Molteni 

stoves are now available in Hong Kong and 

Macau. The ranges combine beauty and 

durability, with a shiny enamel finish and 

sleek brass fittings. Since each is designed to 

the exact specifications of the professional 

or home chef who will be using it, no two 

are the same. If the stove is the heart of the 

kitchen, none beats stronger than a Molteni. 

这项消息足以使所有主厨心跳加速 : 高级 

炉具品牌 Molteni 已正式登陆香港及澳门。 

Molteni 炉具美观与耐用兼具 , 搪瓷炉面闪 

耀动人 , 黄铜配件时尚雅致。每组炉具都是 

根据专业主厨与家庭厨房实际需求量身订做 , 

保证独一无二。如果说炉具是厨房的心脏 , 

那么最强而有力的非 Molteni 莫属 ! 

+852 2915 0250, www.madison-asia.com 

COURTESY OF MOLTENI 

34 




银烁时空 

silver space 

Mined from the earth, coating satellites in space and formed into the most exquisite tools for us to dine with, silver is 

versatile and beautiful. Christofle’s Creative Director Stephane Parmentier talks with TK about his favorite element. 

§ 自地底采掘而出 , 可用来制作太空卫星的涂层 , 也能幻化为餐桌上的优雅器皿 ,「银」功能多元 , 美得令人 

屏息。银器顶级品牌 Christofle 创意总监 Stephane Parmentier 接受 TK 专访 , 畅谈银器让他着迷之处。 

What is so special about silver? 

Silver has antibacterial properties – 

it naturally kills germs. It is used in the 

pharmacy industry for this reason – it’s very 

hygienic. And it is used in space – lots of 

satellites are made with silver as it has no 

contaminants. People don’t realize this same 

timeless element that is used in tableware 

is also orbiting the earth. That’s why I like 

silver. It is beautiful, raw and technical all 

at the same time – a mysterious material. In 

my job I can explore all the possibilities silver 

has to offer. 

How is eating with silver cutlery a 

different experience? 

You feel a different vibration from silver 

when you put it in your mouth. It almost has 

a taste. I don’t know if you have ever drunk 

Champagne from a silver goblet but the 

sensation is different – creamy and smooth. 

Silver conserves heat very well, so it will 

keep your food hotter on its journey to your 

mouth. It also helps to retain the cold, so ice 

cream eaten from a silver spoon won’t melt 

as quickly. It is magical! 

Stephane Parmentier 

Christofle’s 

Jardin d’Eden 

flatware 

COURTESY OF CHRISTOFLE / VINCENT THIBERT, DEREK HUDSON 

Is silver difficult to care for? 

Some people are afraid to use silver. A 

hundred years ago we had servants to clean 

our silver. The new generation may worry that 

it is difficult to look after but you can put 

Christofle flatware in the dishwasher – you 

always could. It’s wonderful when beautiful 

objects have a function. The combination 

means you can use them in your life and to 

use beauty is an idea I love. That is what 

Christofle is for. You should use silver 

flatware every day. 

银的特别之处 ? 

银有抗菌的特性 , 自然有杀菌效果 , 

也因其高度卫生 , 常为制药产业所用。银 

连在外太空也不缺席 , 可用来制作卫星 , 

屏除所有污染源。很多人可能完全没有想 

到 , 桌上的餐具与围绕地球运转的卫星用 

的都是同一种经典材质。银集美丽、天然 

未加工及科技于一身 , 散发不可思议的气 

息 , 让我心醉不已。也因工作关系 , 我得 

以一探银器蕴含的各种可能性。 

用银制餐具用餐的不同之处 ? 

银制餐具放入嘴里产生不一样的振动 , 

仿若携带独特味道。有用银杯喝过香槟的 

话就知道 , 入口的感觉绵密又滑顺 , 令人 

惊艳。银器的保温及保冷性均无懈可击 , 

熟食入口前保证温热温度不易流失 ; 冰淇 

淋用银汤匙大快朵颐时融化速度也较慢 , 

简直只能用神奇两字形容 !


银器是否难以保养 ? 

有些人很怕用银器 , 几百年前还有专 

门清理银器的仆人 , 但时序来到现代 , 大 

家可能担心保养会很麻烦。不过要清洗 

Christofle 餐具其实很简单 , 随时放进洗碗 

机就能搞定。器皿赏心悦目 , 同时功能性强 , 

可说再完美不过了。美的事物用于日常生 

活中 , 我绝对双手赞成。这正是 Christofle 

的理念 , 银制餐具就该每天使用。 

Christofle is nearly two hundred years 

old. How do you draw on all that tradition 

in the 21st century? 

For me modernity and tradition are just 

two different expressions of the same face. 

My interpretation of modernity is eclecticism, 

a new generosity, sharing, working a different 

way, having a new approach to things. We 

are working with the same material we used 

two hundred years ago – silver. And we are 

drawing on the know-how and techniques 

from nearly two centuries of experience. That 

won’t change. But what we are changing is 

how we present it. It’s a little like cooking. 

With the same ingredients everybody creates 

their own recipes in their own styles. We 

want to express that through silver. 

Modernity for me is a snapshot of time, 

of what is happening now. With our designs 

we keep to our core values of elegance, but 

we express the period of time through our 

work. And it is interesting, because you can 

mix 19 th century Christofle pieces with our 

latest ranges on the same table and it works 

beautifully. Eclecticism is modern – people 

enjoy it. I love it when tables feel free, when 

people can express themselves by playing 

with how they arrange things. 

What’s your favorite piece of cutlery? 

I love specific tools for specific jobs, the 

ones people don’t know about. We have 

beautiful lobster forks, ice cream spoons 

with squared edges, delicate strawberry 

spoons and large rice spoons. These items 

are like the eccentric members of your family 

– they have a lot of character. I love this 

Christofle’s etched 

silver Graffiti Tray 

extravagance, the decadence of having one 

spoon for one purpose. 

Could you share an example of how 

Christofle has combined tradition and 

modernity in one of its designs? 

Our biggest revolution is with the 

Jardin d’Eden range. The blade of the knife 

is engraved using a laser – this modern 

technology. But the pattern is reminiscent of 

baroque style. The elegance is traditional and 

glorious, with acanthus leaves and a sense 

of lush foliage in the design. What is really 

different about this range is that the back 

of the spoon is engraved. There is a cultural 

reason for this. In France, when we lay the 

table we place the spoons with their rounded 

backs uppermost. This gives us a beautiful 

surface to play with, so we decorate it. But 

there is a real challenge to engrave a curved 

surface and we had to find a state-of-the-art 

machine to ensure that the engraving was 

equal all over the area – that is tough to do! 

But you have this marriage of cutting edge 

technology and antique design. The designer 

understood how to express modernity and 

tradition in one item. 

What is your vision for the future of 

Christofle – what would you like to see 

next? 

In the future I would like to see flatware 

that transcends all traditional, religious and 

cultural boundaries and suits different 

foods from different countries. This could 

be the future: something that pleases the 

whole planet. 

Christofle 有将近两百年的历史。如何将 

历年传统与 21 世纪的创新作法完美融合 ? 

现代这个概念有点像是抓住发生在当 

下的吉光片羽。对我而言 , 就是兼容并蓄 , 

以海纳百川的心态相互分享、尝试不同的 

做事方式及创新手法。我们自前人的秘诀 

及技术中汲取经验 , 两百年来始终如一 , 

不同之处在于呈现方式。设计保留品牌一 

贯优雅的核心风格 , 又呈现出当代特色。 

混搭着品牌的 19 世纪和最新系列餐具 , 想 

来就趣味无限 , 恣意排列餐具组合 , 餐桌 

上毫无禁锢 , 正是我所乐见的。 

和我们分享一下您最爱的餐具。 

我喜欢大家还摸不太清楚、有特殊目的性 

的工具 , 像是造型美仑美奂的龙虾叉、边 

角正方的冰淇淋匙、精致的草莓匙及大型 

的饭匙等 , 都是属于家中餐具里的异类 , 

个个风格独具。单只汤匙只为特种目的而 

制 , 这种奢华及气势让我只能说大呼过瘾。 

Christofle 结合传统及现代的设计 , 是否 

有实例可分享 ? 

Jardin d’Eden 是我们最具突破性的系 

列 , 刀锋以最新科技雷射所刻制 , 画的却 

是浓浓巴洛克风格的图腾。传统又突显辉 

煌历史 , 上面还有莨苕叶及枝繁叶茂的意 

象。系列汤匙背面以雕刻制成 , 可说是系 

列的最大不同。法国的餐桌文化中 , 汤匙 

背面上摆 , 浑圆的匙杓正可让我们挥洒、 

装饰的尽善尽美。但要在弧形的匙杓上雕 

刻可没那么容易 , 技术最先进的机台才能 

让表面刻画保持一致 , 可谓得来不易 ! 但 

成果极好 , 正是最新科技及仿古设计的最 

佳结合。设计师于银器中融合现代及传统 

于一身 , 功力了得。 

您对 Christofle 的愿景为何 , 对未来的期 

盼 ? 

我希望餐具在未来能突破传统、宗教 

及文化藩篱 , 一体适用于各国风味不同的 

特色料理。这或许是大势所趋 : 一种东西 

走遍天下 , 不管是谁都能取悦。 

COURTESY OF CHRISTOFLE / VINCENT THIBERT, LUX PRODUCTIONS 

38 


Christofle’s Commodore flatware


小美食家之礼 

gifts for little gourmets 

Stylish ideas for the child connoisseur in your life 

佳节特色小物 

christmas staples 

Getting into the holiday spirit with beautiful basics 

Fresco Bloom Baby Chair 

A fully-adjustable throne that will 

fit in any modern kitchen. 

给孩子的宝座 , 调整方便 , 风格 

时尚 , 完美融入用餐空间。 

£470. Available exclusively online, 

www.johnlewis.com 

Mono Kids Smile Set 

The circles at the base of the 

utensils help little hands grip. 

餐具顶端的圆形造型让小手更好抓握。 

£65 

www.mono.de 

Tiffany 1837 Baby Cup 

Swap sippy cups for sophisticated 

sterling silver. 

有了精致的纯银杯 , 谁还要吸管杯 ? 

HKD41,500 

+852 2845 9853 

zh.tiffany.com 

NOËL Annual Ornament, clear 

Start a new tradition of 

commemorating every Christmas 

with a special ornament. 

今年起 , 用新巧饰品来为 

圣诞节锦上添花吧 ! 

HKD1,000, +852 2895 6001 

www.baccarat.com 

Raynaud “Attraction” Coffee Cup 

Pour hot chocolate into this candy 

cane-striped cup and drink up 

the flavors of the season. 

在拐杖糖条纹杯里倒入热呼呼的巧克 

力 , 喝一口洋溢浓浓节庆味的幸福。 

HKD1,270. +852 2530 0686 

www.heatherandmarch.com 

La Maison du Chocolat 

Holiday Macaron Gift Box 

The shimmery gold box opens 

to reveal six macarons – 

perfect for snacking or tucking 

underneath the tree. 

打开金光闪闪的礼盒 , 六个美 

丽的马卡龙映入眼帘 , 这是节 

庆小点的好选择 , 也适合摆在 

圣诞树下作为甜蜜礼物。 

NOËL Courchevel Fir Tree 

Short on time (or space) this holiday 

season? Set out this stunning 

cut crystal pine and consider the 

decorating done. 

没时间 ( 或空间 ) 为佳节作准 

备 ? 这株优雅美丽的水晶圣诞 

树 , 省下您装饰的烦恼。 

HKD2,900, +852 2895 6001 

www.baccarat.com 

HKD180. +852 2196 8333 

www.lamaisonduchocolat.com 

40 



food art 

凤巢稀宝 

from the nest of a phoenix 

Illustrations of cinnamon and nutmeg merchants from a 15th century French 

herbal hint at the central importance of spices in the Medieval European pantry. 

IN THE MIDDLE AGES, spices from the East were at the heart of 

fashionable dining in Europe. The combination of sweet and sour 

flavors prevalent today in dishes from China, India and Southeast 

Asia provides insight into the taste palette of upper-class 

medieval Europeans. While all imported spices were highly prized 

and priced in Medieval Europe – they were used predominately 

by the upper classes to impress banquet guests – there was 

a hierarchy of importance. Pepper was king. Europeans who 

could afford to had been adding it to almost every dish since 

Ancient Roman times. Also topping the purchase lists of Venetian 

traders, physicians and castle cooks were ginger, cloves, nutmeg, 

cinnamon and locally produced saffron. 

For Europeans, the origins of most spices were steeped in 

mystery, and this aura of the exotic contributed significantly to 

their popularity. Arab traders, who controlled the spice routes 

and dominated exportation during the Middle Ages, actively 

propagated the numerous fantastical tales that European 

consumers bought into with relish. According to one story, 

giant birds made their nests from huge cinnamon sticks on 

cliffs above beaches in India. Cinnamon hunters were said to 

leave huge hunks of meat on the beach which the birds would 

take back to their nests. The weight of the meat would cause 

a nest to collapse and fall to the ground where the sticks could 

be collected. Flying snakes, vengeful bats, phoenixes and 

human sacrifices to various gods featured in other, ever more 

fantastical accounts of spice acquisition. 

Medicine, spices and cooking were intertwined in Medieval 

Europe. The miniatures featured here, which come from a 

在 15 世纪法国草本志的一幅肉桂及肉豆蔻 

商人图像中 , 展现了香料于中古世纪欧洲 

餐桌上的不凡地位。中世纪的欧洲 , 远从 

东方而来的香料可说是餐桌上的亮点 , 是 

流行时髦的代名词。现今在中国、印度及 

东南亚一带 , 常见的甜酸调味为上流阶层 

贵客的味蕾带来全新感受。进口的香料在 

当时备受推崇、所费不赀 , 成为了上流社 

会用来宴客的不二之选。各种香料间还有 

排行 , 胡椒正是其中的王道。自罗马时代 

起 , 欧洲人可说无胡椒不欢 , 买得起的几 

乎每道菜都要加上这一味。另外姜、丁香、 

肉豆蔻、肉桂及地方所产的番红花也在香 

料榜中名列前茅 , 大受威尼斯商人、医师 

或庄园城堡大厨们的青睐。 

当时欧洲人对于大部分香料的来源一 

无所知 , 而此种异国的神秘感正是让东方 

香料身价不凡、大受欢迎的原因。香料进 

出口路径及生意一手抓的中世纪阿拉伯商 

人经商有道 , 大肆以神话故事包装商品 , 

让欧洲贵客们听得津津有味。其中一个故 

事讲到印度的巨鸟在海滩边的悬崖上用偌 

大肉桂枝筑巢 , 猎人们意在肉桂 , 便于海 

滩上摆放大块肉片引诱巨鸟衔叼回巢 , 趁 

鸟巢承受不住肉块重量翻覆时 , 捡拾散落 

于地的肉桂枝。其他还有融入飞天大蛇、 

复仇的蝙蝠、凤凰 , 甚至真人献祭天神等 

与香料相关杜撰的奇幻传说。 

DEAGOSTINI PICTURE LIBRARY/SCALA, FLORENCE 

42 

| TK | flavor dna

food art 

15th century French herbal, depict nutmeg and cinnamon 

merchants with their highly profitable produce laid out in 

front of them. Herbals are a group of manuscripts that contain 

illustrations of plants, animals and minerals, and information 

about natural remedies. The manuals were essential not only 

for physicians and apothecaries – spices including those used 

for cooking were typically sold in apothecary shops – but 

were also consulted by housekeepers and cooks. Recipes and 

shopping lists for healthful ingredients have been found slipped 

into the back pages of many of the old volumes. 

Western medical thinking in the Middle Ages was 

dominated by humoralism, a theory credited to the Ancient 

Greek physician Hippocrates. Humoralists taught that the 

body contains four humors: black bile, yellow bile, phlegm and 

blood. To determine the health of a person, physicians linked 

these humors with the theory of the four elements and with 

four distinct temperaments and qualities. In Medieval cooking 

every foodstuff, spices included, was assigned a quality. Fish, 

for example, was classified as cold and moist, while cinnamon 

was hot and dry. To counter any troublesome digestive issues 

that might be caused by the phlegmatic fish, dishes featuring 

seafood were commonly served drowned in a cinnamon-based 

sauce called sauce cameline. 

It was from the spice trade that the Age of Discovery was 

born. European naval fleets grew substantially in the hunt for 

the sources of spices, cinnamon and nutmeg in particular, and 

knowledge of new religions, cultures and geography seeped 

into the European consciousness. In the late 15th century, the 

Portuguese made their way to the native homes of nutmeg (the 

Moluccas Islands in East Indonesia) and cinnamon (Sri Lanka). 

They seized control of the market, toppling the monopoly 

held by the Arab traders who had kept the locations secret 

for centuries. The Dutch and English took the lands from the 

Portuguese in the 1600s and, with direct sea routes to Europe 

established and the origin myths dispelled, the once rare spices 

that had captured the imaginations and furthered the social 

aspirations of the upper classes became commonplace. 

医药、香料及料理三者于中古欧洲可 

说息息相关 , 从这 15 世纪法国草本志中的 

微型画中即可略知一二 , 描绘的正是商人 

眼前尽是肉豆蔻及肉桂、大发利市的景象。 

草本志中的手抄页详载了各式植物、动物 

及矿物的图解以及自然植物疗法的各种资 

讯 , 不仅被医师及药剂师奉为重要的参考 

来源 , 也是家管或厨师不可或缺的宝典。 

内载的食用香料通常能在药草店找得到。 

不少草本志旧籍还常能看到前人留下的健 

康食材食谱及采购清单夹杂其后。 

西方医学史家认为 , 中古世纪以体液 

学说为大宗。此医学理论相传源于古希腊 

医师西波克拉底 (Hippocrates), 后由罗马 

医学专家及哲学家加兰 (Galen) 著述发扬 

光大。体液学说相信人体由黑胆汁、黄胆 

汁、黏液及血液组成 , 医师可借四大元素 

相关的脾性及特质来诊断一个人的健康状 

况。中世纪每种食品以及香料都冠有某种 

特质 , 举例而言 , 鱼的特质便是阴寒及潮湿 , 

而肉桂是温热及干燥。要解决黏湿鱼类导 

致的各式消化问题 , 就可端出淋上 sauce 

cameline 肉桂酱汁的海鲜食用。 

香料贸易引发后来的地理大发现时代。 

欧洲船舰为了追寻以肉桂及肉豆蔻为主的 

香料而出海 , 势力逐渐茁壮 , 也随之引进 

全新的宗教、文化及地理概念 , 一点一滴 

注入中古世纪的欧洲大陆。 15 世纪末 , 葡 

萄牙舰队终于远航至肉豆蔻 ( 东帝汶的摩 

鹿加群岛 ) 及肉桂 ( 斯里兰卡 ) 的故乡 , 找 

到阿拉伯商人隐藏数世纪的香料群岛 , 并 

打破其独大局面 , 取而代之掌控此市场长 

达数百年。 16 世纪则接连易手于荷兰及英 

国 , 建立航线直抵欧洲 , 就此揭开了东方 

香料的神秘面纱。从此 , 一度激发无穷想像、 

促使上流阶层社交流动的珍稀香料也步下 

殿堂 , 走入寻常人家。 

DEAGOSTINI PICTURE LIBRARY/SCALA, FLORENCE 

44 

| TK | flavor dna

food champions 

巅峰角逐 

the last supper 

At this year’s Restaurant & Bar Hong Kong exhibition, young chefs from 

all across Asia gathered to compete for the region’s Disciples Escoffier 

Young Talent Trophy and the right to compete in the global final in France. 

FOUR MAKESHIFT KITCHENS stand in the 

center of a stage at Hong Kong’s convention 

and exhibition center. Each is outfitted 

with identical equipment and supplied with 

identical ingredients. Each is occupied by an 

intensely concentrated young chef. They’ve 

been cooking and competing for three days. 

Of the eight finalists from eight countries 

who came to take part in the Asian final of 

the Disciples Escoffier Young Talent Trophy, 

only these four remain. 

A line of tables flanks the kitchen counters: 

this is where the team of judges will 

sit and taste the dishes created by the contestants. 

An audience of press, chefs and 

interested passersby sit on benches watching 

the chefs as they quietly and methodically 

try to channel the spirit of August Escoffier, 

the great chef whose landmark 1903 cookbook, 

Le Guide Culinaire, revolutionized and 

modernized culinary techniques. 

Eyck Zimmer, President of the Disciples 

Escoffier Delegation Hong Kong, keeps his 

eyes fixed firmly on the contestants as he 

explains what it takes to win: “We judge 

organization, hygiene, wastage, technical 

skills and precision in their cooking. But the 

texture and flavor of the food is what separates 

an exceptional cook from an ordinary 

one. … You need to have a certain determination. 

You can’t just compete. You need to 

want to win.” 

The first two rounds of this final saw 

the competitors making a simple-sounding 

poached egg mignon in a prawn sauce, then 

a traditional salmon à la meunière. “Poaching 

香港会议展览中心的舞台上搭起了四间活 

动厨房 , 每间都配备了相同的设备和食材 , 

而每间厨房里都有一位年轻厨师在紧张忙 

碌着。细细数来 , 这已经是他们的第三个 

比赛日了。八位来自八个不同地区的选手 

在埃科菲青年厨师大赛亚洲区决赛竞争出 

线 , 只剩最后四位精英角逐冠军宝座。 

厨房边排了一列桌子 , 稍后评审就会 

坐在这里 , 品尝参赛菜肴。一列列长凳会 

坐满记者、其他厨师与受吸引的路人 , 欣 

赏选手们举止镇定、有条不紊地一展厨艺 , 

努力发挥奥古斯特 ‧ 埃科菲 (August Escoffier) 

的精神。厨艺大师 Escoffier 在 1903 

年写出划时代的料理圣经《烹饪指南》(Le 

Guide Culinaire), 革新料理技术 , 催生了 

现代化烹饪。 

Escoffier 的弟子 Eyck Zimmer 为埃科 

菲国际厨师协会香港分会主席 , 他目不转 

睛地盯着选手 , 同时解释评审标准 :「评判 

标准是烹饪的条理掌握、卫生、取量、技 

巧及精确程度 , 但想脱颖而出还需靠食物 

的口感与风味 , 选手必须有决心 , 不能只 

是志在参加 , 要渴求胜利。」 

决赛前两轮的比试项目是听起来简单 

的水波蛋菲力牛排佐鲜虾酱汁 , 以及传统 

的法式香煎三文鱼。有人问为什么选这几 

样菜作为考验 , 埃科菲国际厨师协会东盟 

主席 Robert Fontana 表示 :「水波蛋听起来 

简单 , 但要做得好不容易 , 时间必须掌握 

得非常精确。他们还得知道怎么煮好朝鲜 

蓟、怎么把鱼切片。这些步骤 Escoffier 在 

他的书里阐述得很清楚 , 年轻厨师应该好 

好研读 , 反覆练习传统技巧。」 

剩下的四位参赛者现在要烤出恰到好 

处的五分熟牛排 , 中间是多汁的粉红色 , 

外表焦脆一分不差。另外搭配法式伯那西 

46 

| TK | FLAVOR DNA 



an egg sounds simple but it is hard to pull 

off. You have to get the timing exactly right,” 

says Asian Chairman of Escoffier Robert 

Fontana when asked why these dishes were 

selected to test the young chefs. “They also 

have to know how to prepare an artichoke 

perfectly, how to fillet a fish. Escoffier set 

all this out in his Guide. These chefs have 

to study him and know the traditional techniques 

backwards and forwards.” 

Now, the four remaining contestants 

must prepare a perfect steak, served medium 

rare, with a juicy center done nicely pink 

and the outside cooked just right to produce 

a dark caramelized crust. The steak 

is served with a béarnaise sauce, a classic 

Escoffier recipe requiring the chefs to work 

with steady hands as they combine egg yolks 

with a reduction of vinegar and tarragon and 

then add clarified butter over slow heat – get 

it wrong and the sauce may not cohere or fail 

to achieve the perfect creamy consistency. 

The scent of searing beef wafts over to 

the audience as the judges take their seats. 

There is a strict time frame. Eyck is unrelenting 

on punctuality. “Chefs need to make 

food when guests want it – not when they 

feel like it. It’s absolutely essential to get the 

timing right. One of the important things to 

factor in when cooking steak, is the amount 

of time the meat needs to rest before serving. 

The muscle fibers in the meat contract and 

you need to give them time to relax again, so 

the meat is tender to eat.” 

The chefs slice the meat and hands 

shake with nerves as they finish their plates. 

Macau’s chef whisks his béarnaise to a glossy 

thickness, tastes and pours. Vietnam’s chef, 

the only woman remaining in the competition, 

drags a spoonful of jus in a perfect line 

across her plate. The dishes are brought out 

and presented to the chefs who share a plate 

between two. The first thing they do is to 

check the warmth of the plates to ensure 

the food has been served piping hot. Their 

faces are stern as they sniff, prod and chew 

the meat. Spectators and competitors look 

on anxiously. 

The contest doesn’t end with the steak. 

The final hurdle is for the chefs to prove their 

pastry-making skills. “Pastry chef is actually a 

separate discipline,” explains Eyck, himself a 

pastry chef. “But all chefs need to know how 

to make basic desserts to a high standard.” 

The dish the contestants are preparing 

for their tough audience is a tarte flan aux 

pommes a la bataliere – a layered confection 

of pastry, sliced apples and creamy rice pudding 

topped with a delicate meringue. As the 

contestants set to work, the open kitchen 

fills with the sweet fragrance of apples frying 

gently in butter and spicy cinnamon. 

The apple tarts are paraded past the 

judges, then sliced and presented for tasting. 

The judges are looking for taste and 

texture, for a fine balance between the crumbly 

pasty, the silky meringue, the apples with 

just enough but not too much cinnamon, 

and the sweet nubbly texture of the rice. 

South Korea’s tart is producing murmurs of 

approval. “Nicely golden,” says one judge. 

“He’s put just the right amount of rice pudding 

on top,” says another. Tempting aromas 

tease the audience and everybody watches 

the judges as they taste and think and take 

notes, before retiring to a back room to discuss 

their findings. 

The four finalists are pale-faced and jittery 

after a solid three hours of hard and 

focused cooking. “When I am at work I am 

part of a team,” says Chris Wong, Hong 

Kong’s entrant. “I can ask other people in the 

team for advice and help. But in a competition 

like this I am all on my own in a strange 

kitchen.” They all admit to nerves and to 

their great desire to claim the Young Talent 

Trophy and to represent Asia while competing 

at the global final in France, where the 

great Escoffier once reigned. 

Finally the judges appear to announce a 

winner. South Korea’s Lee Yon Yong has done 

it with his perfectly balanced tart, which 

perfectly embodied the light refinement of 

Escoffier’s classic recipe. 

“I cannot believe that I am the victor of this 

competition. I just used traditional cooking 

skills,” says the champion. He looks surprised 

but beams proudly. “My coach told me 

to focus on taste and basic skills. I know my 

cooking doesn’t use enough salt, so I taste it.” 

And how will he prepare for the global 

final in France? 

“I’ll just keep practicing over and over. 

Competitions really stimulate my mind. I 

love this one.” 

48 


FLAVOR DNA | TK | 49


(béarnaise) 酱汁 , 这是 Escoffier 书中的经 

典酱汁 , 将蛋黄拌入香醋与龙蒿汁 , 然后 

用小火边煮边加入澄清奶油 , 在烹饪过程 

中厨师双手必须保持稳定。如果出错 , 酱 

汁可能无法融合或达到完美的稠度。 

烧烤牛肉的香味飘到观众席 , 评审也 

纷纷就坐。竞赛有严格的时间要求 ,Eyck 

对遵守时限一事一丝不苟。「厨师要在客人 

要求的时间料理完成 , 而非等到自己满意 ; 

要掌握时机 , 这点非常基本。料理牛肉时 , 

一定要考虑到牛肉必须在上菜前静置一段 

时间。因刚烤好的肉的组织纤维会收缩 , 

必须松弛一段时间 , 尝起来才会软嫩。」 

料理完毕后 , 厨师用颤抖的手切下牛 

肉。澳门选手搅拌出一锅充满光泽、美味 

的浓稠伯那西酱汁 ; 越南代表是比赛中剩 

下唯一的女选手 , 她舀起一杓酱汁 , 在盘 

上画出一道完美的线条。菜肴端上后由两 

位评委共同点评一盘 , 评审第一件事是检 

查盘子的温度 , 确保食物端上时都是热腾 

腾的 , 然后认真严肃地嗅闻、戳刺、咀嚼 

牛肉。选手和观众都在一旁紧张地看着。 

牛排过后便是比赛最后一关。选手要 

展现自己制作糕点的技术。 Eyck 本身就是 

一位糕点师傅 , 他说 :「糕点实际上是另外 

一门学问 , 但是所有的厨师都该知道怎么 

做出高品质的基本甜点。」 

选手接下这些难讨好的评审指派的任 

务 , 制作卡士达苹果挞 (tarte flan aux pommes 

a la bataliere)。这份糕点有多层次的酥 

皮、苹果薄片、香浓布丁馅 , 加上精巧的 

蛋白霜。参赛者着手开始制作 , 用黄油与 

辛香肉桂微煎苹果 , 甜美的香气溢满了开 

放式厨房。 

苹果挞在评审间传递轮流检阅 , 然后 

切片品尝。评审注意的是味道与口感 , 挞 

皮要酥脆、蛋白霜要丝滑、苹果的肉桂用 

量要合宜 , 米布丁要有甜甜的颗粒口感 , 

一切必须拿捏地恰如其分。南韩选手的作 

品激起评审低声赞美 , 一位评审说 :「外表 

金黄 , 烤得很漂亮。」另一位说 :「他放上 

的米布丁分量刚刚好。」诱人的香味挑逗着 

每一位观众 , 评审继续在大家面前品尝、 

思考、做笔记 , 接着聚集到后面的房间开 

始讨论。 

足足三小时的比赛相当吃重 , 必须全 

神贯注 , 结束后选手各个脸色苍白、惴惴 

不安。香港选手黄翊铭说 :「我平常在团队 

中工作 , 可以问团队中其他人的意见或寻 

求帮助。但是在比赛里 , 一切都要靠自己。」 

每个人都承认非常紧张 , 但同时也非常渴 

望夺牌 , 以代表亚洲到 Escoffier 曾扬威立 

万的法国参加世界大赛。 

最后评审宣布 , 南韩选手 Lee Won Yon 

的苹果挞完美体现 Escoffier 经典食谱中清 

爽优雅的风格 , 达到完美的平衡 , 因此获 

得最后的优胜。 

South Korea’s Lee Yon Yong 

Lee Won Yon 看起来很惊讶 , 但也很自 

豪 , 他说 :「我真不敢相信自己赢了比赛 , 

我只用了传统的烹饪技巧。教练要我注意 

味道与基本技巧 , 我知道自己下的盐不够 , 

所以我会注意尝味道。」 

至于他会怎么准备法国的全球总决赛 ? 

「我会继续一遍又一遍地练习。比赛真 

的能激励我 , 我很喜欢。」 

50 



FEATURE 

spirits 

茶香加琴酒 

混调创意 

g & tea 

琴酒究竟有何魔力 , 可以当成属于每个人 

的英国茶 , 英人牌琴酒大使 Tim Stones 为 

大家道说分明。 

「007 詹姆士 · 庞德其实从来不喝伏特 

加马丁尼 , 那是好莱坞加上去的玩意儿」, 

英人牌琴酒 (Beefeater Gin) 大使 Tim Stones 

讲得斩钉截铁。「在 Ian Fleming 的原著小 

说中 , 庞德喝的是由两份琴酒、一份伏特 

加及些许 Kina Lillet 开胃酒调成的 Vespers。 

说到最棒的烈酒 , 琴酒当之无愧 , 包括庞 

德、绝大部分的调酒师及我本人都可以打 

包票。」 

琴酒蕴含多种繁复的味道 , 可与巧克 

力及奶油混调出特级的琴酒亚历山大 (Gin 

Alexander), 或加上带苦味的草本金巴利酒 

(Campari), 就是经典成人口味的内格罗尼 

(Negroni), 几乎无所不搭。 Beefeater 干琴 

酒向来是调酒师及爱酒人士的首选。顶级 

干伦敦琴酒「Beefeater 24」散发着引人入 

胜的绿茶及煎茶韵味 , 自 2009 年推出至今 

已掳获不少酒迷的心 , 更曾勇夺 2010 年旧 

金山世界烈酒大赛金牌的殊荣 , 大获业界 

人士好评。 

说到「Beefeater 24」, Stones 表示 :「这 

可是 Beefeater 首席蒸馏师 Desmond Payne 

呕心沥血之作。某次亚洲之行 , 他想做经 

典调酒琴通宁 (G and T), 无奈当地的通宁 

水味道过甜 , 而后他突发奇想加入冰绿茶 , 

调和出的味道让人惊艳 , 而后才决定在新 

酿酒品中加入草本茶类做为引子。正因为 

渗入细微的茶味 ,Beefeater 24 酒精成分也 

需较一般琴酒高 , 才能使酒体稳定。酒精 

成分越高 , 越可衬出内含的草本精华。」 

Stones 解释 :「茶有数千种复合味道 , 

就像琴酒一样 , 与各种成分都能配合的完 

美无缺。琴酒配茶更是大大拓展混酒调制 

的可能性。」除了拿茶来调酒 , 他也用琴酒 

泡浸茶叶 , 特制茶茗糖浆 , 为鸡尾酒增添 

一股迷人香气。 

品牌取名自专职守卫伦敦塔的皇家珠 

宝屋「御用侍卫 (Yeomen Warder)」的绰号 

「Beefeater」。侍卫们一身午夜蓝及亮红制 

服 , 相当显眼。他们的职责 , 除了负责看 

守珠宝及塔内囚犯外 , 也包括照料长年流 

连于塔内的黑渡鸦。渡鸦于塔中历史已有 

数百年之久 , 相传渡鸦若离塔而去 , 英国 

皇室及伦敦塔也将颓圮、一蹶不振。侍卫 

中有专人负责修剪渡鸦翅膀上的羽毛 , 让 

其无法飞离塔墙 , 希望借此永保王室繁荣。 

「Beefeater 24」瓶身设计以上述的传 

统故事为灵感 , 造型相当别致。瓶帽呈条 

纹状 , 象征侍卫的制服 , 透过晶莹剔透的 

酒体仔细一看 , 还能发现瓶身贴标背面有 

只小型渡鸭。贴标上红色代表的则是大小 

有如鸡蛋一般、镶于王室皇冠正面的「黑 

王子红宝石」。Stones 也进一步透露 :「御 

用侍卫还有专属的酒吧 , 就在底层、离叛 

徒门没多远。」问到他们最爱的酒是甚么 ? 

Stones 胸有成竹的表示 :「当然是 Beefeater 

琴通宁 ! 那是他们的最爱 !」 

Beefeater Gin Ambassador Tim Stones explains why gin should be everyone’s very British cup of tea. 

“JAMES BOND NEVER DRANK Vodka martinis 

– that was a concept invented by 

Hollywood,” asserts Beefeater Gin Ambassador 

Tim Stones. “If you read Ian Fleming’s 

books, you will see that Bond drank Vespers: 

two parts gin, one vodka and a little Kina 

Lillet. Gin is the best spirit. James Bond, 

most bartenders and I will agree on that.” 

Stones believes gin can pair with just 

about anything, that the number of complex 

flavors in the spirit allow it to meld 

with chocolate and cream to create a fancy 

Gin Alexander, or to combine with bitter 

herbal Campari in the grown-up flavors of 

a classic Negroni. Beefeater London Dry 

Gin has always been popular with bartenders 

and drinkers. Since 2009, Beefeater 24, 

a premium dry London gin with interesting 

green tea and sencha tea notes, has been 

winning new devotees, and accolades like a 

gold medal at the 2010 San Francisco World 

Spirits Competition. 

“This was the brainchild of Beef eater’s 

master distiller Desmond Payn e,” says 

52 


Stones. “He was inspired by trips he made 

to Asia, where he often found the local tonic 

water too sweet to mix with gin for a traditional 

G and T. He started to use chilled 

green tea as a mixer, which worked so beautifully 

that he then decided to add tea as a 

botanical in his new gin blend. Beefeater 24 

has a higher alcohol content than many gins 

because the delicate flavors of the tea need 

more stability. The higher the alcohol content, 

the brighter the botanicals can shine.” 

“Tea has thousands of flavor compounds,” 

says Stones. “Like gin, it works well with all 

sorts of regular ingredients. Combining tea 

and gin allows even more scope for mixing 

drinks.” Stones doesn’t stop at using tea as 

a mixer – he infuses gin with tea leaves, 

and makes tea syrups which add beautiful 

aromas to his cocktails. 

The name Beefeater comes from the 

nickname given to the English soldiers who 

guard the Crown Jewels in the Tower of 

London. Officially known as Yeomen Warders, 

Beefeaters wear distinctive midnight 

blue and bright red uniforms. In addition to 

guarding the jewels and any prisoners who 

may be in the Tower, they look after the 

welfare of the black ravens that patrol the 

grounds. Ravens have lived in the Tower for 

centuries and it is believed that if they ever 

leave, the British Monarchy and the tower 

itself will crumble and fall. To avoid this 

unfortunate outcome, one of the Beefeaters 

trims the ravens’ wing feathers so they are 

grounded within the Tower walls. 

Beefeater 24 gin comes in an attractive 

bottle which hints at this exceptional heritage. 

The cap is striped to mimic the regular uniform 

of the Beefeaters. A small raven is visible 

through the gin on the back of the main label. 

The red on the label represents the Black 

Prince Ruby, the egg-sized gem mounted at 

the front of the British Monarch’s crown. 

“The Beefeaters have their own pub,” 

says Stones. “It’s inside the Tower grounds 

not too far from Traitor’s gate.” And what is 

their favorite drink? “Beefeater gin and tonic 

of course! They love it!” 

LAPSANG MARTINEZ 

Martini glass ( 马丁尼杯 ) 

45ml Beefeater 24 

30ml Sweet Vermouth 

( 甜苦艾酒 ) 

15ml Lapsang Souchong Syrup 

( 正山小种红茶糖浆 ) 

Stirred and strained into a chilled martini 

glass and garnished with lemon twist. 

拌搅过筛倒入马丁尼冰杯 , 

再缀以柠檬片卷即可。 

THAI BALL 

Highball glass ( 高球杯 ) 


20ml lemon juice ( 柠檬汁 ) 

20ml homemade syrup 

of lemon grass and ginger 

( 自制柠檬草及姜糖水 ) 

Topped with iced green tea and garnished 

with a slice of lemon and lemon grass. 

倒入些许冰绿茶 , 

缀以柠檬片及柠檬草即可。 

MILANG NEGRONI 

Tumbler ( 平底酒杯 ) 


25ml Sweet Vermouth ( 甜苦艾酒 ) 

8ml Aperol 

8ml Campari ( 金巴利酒 ) 

Origin Bar 

48 Wyndham Street, Central, Hong Kong 

香港中环云咸街 48 号 


presented by krug 

香槟之王与蟹肉美馔 

Krug and the Culinary Crab 

ANDREW J LOITERTON 

TK shares crab dishes and chef musings from a newly 

released book: Krug’s sideways look at the culinary crab. 

54 

| TK | FLAVOR DNA


Mitsuru Konishi 

EXECUTIVE CHEF, WAGYU TAKUMI, HONG KONG 

Mini Boudin of Crab and Couscous in Minestrone of “Kegani” 

迷你蟹肉肠及「毛蟹」北非小米鲜蔬汤 

Fast food? It is convenient, cheap and sometimes it 

tastes good (because of its strong tastes) but it is 

unhealthy. Who do you consider the world’s best chef(s)/ 

restaurant? The best chef must have a passion for food, 

be creative and have a good personality. What is your 

best recipe? Japanese rice with natto [a fermented 

soybean]. Your favorite ingredient? Game such as wild 

hare and woodcock. I would make Braised Hare and Roast 

Woodcock. Food reviews? Food reviews can accelerate the 

food quality and service of restaurants. Your own guilty 

food indulgence? Potato chips. Picky eaters? Each person 

grows up differently in different environments so they 

often have a different understanding of taste, needs and 

requirements. I respect a customer’s needs. Food trends? 

Food trends change every one or two years. I don’t follow 

the popular trends of the times, as I prefer to focus on what 

is best for my customers in terms of menu design and using 

fresh ingredients. 

速食 ? 方便、便宜 , 或许味道重的关系吧 , 但就是不健康。 

心目中世界级的最佳厨师或餐厅 ? 顶级厨师要对食物有热 

情、有创意 , 同时个性要好。最棒的食谱 ? 日本米加纳豆 ( 发 

酵大豆 )。最爱的食材 ? 像是野兔或山鹬之类的野味 , 我会 

做成炖兔肉或烤山鹬。对美食评论有何意见 ? 可以加速料理 

品质及餐厅服务的成长速度。私底下常偷吃什么东西为乐 ? 

洋芋片。碰到挑剔的客人怎么办 ? 每个人成长背景和环境都 

不同 , 吃东西的口味、需求及要求当然也不尽相同。我尊重 

每个顾客所需。料理趋势 ? 趋势每一两年都在变 , 我不会盲 

目跟随最新流行 , 会以顾客所需为出发点来设计最好的菜单 

或运用新鲜的食材。 


56 



Uwe Opocensky 


EXECUTIVE CHEF, MANDARIN ORIENTAL, HONG KONG 

Crab Tacos 

蟹肉玉米卷 

Fast food? I don’t really like fast food chains but I love 

simple stuff like roast chicken from Pizza Express. What is 

your best recipe? I don’t have one and I don’t like to live 

in the past. The best recipe I have is the one I don’t know 

yet... The most treasured one is from my grandmother. Your 

favorite ingredient(s)? Garlic salt and olive oil. Your own 

guilty food indulgence? I love chocolates – always have 

and always will! Local wet markets? I love wet markets 

and I hope HK will do more for them. I wish we could have 

beautiful markets and food vans like in Europe. There is 

amazing produce that this region has to give. Picky eaters? 

As long as I can, I will accommodate whatever is requested; 

however, I am not a magician! Food trends? Trends are 

interesting but they come and go. If they fit into what we 

are doing that is great. Without trends there would be no 

change and no new ideas. 

速食 ? 连锁速食餐厅不对我的胃口 , 反倒是 Pizza Express 烤 

鸡那样简单的东西比较对味。最棒的食谱 ? 我没有 , 我也不 

喜欢活在过去 , 最好的食谱我现在尚未找到 … 不过最珍惜的 

算是祖母的老食谱。最爱的食材 ? 蒜盐和橄榄油。私底下常 

偷吃什么东西为乐 ? 我超爱巧克力 , 过去如此 , 以后也不会 

变 ! 地方湿货市场如何 ? 我好喜欢湿货市场 , 也希望香港多 

花些心思来发展 , 类似欧洲的漂亮市集或行动餐车都不错。 

这些地区产出不少品质一流的农产品。碰到挑剔的客人怎么 


办 ? 能力范围内 , 我会尽可能满足顾客需求 ; 话是这么说 , 

我也不是万能魔术师就是啦 ! 料理趋势 ? 趋势来来去去 , 其 

实很有趣 , 刚好和我们做的不谋而合那当然很棒。可以说没 

有趋势就没有变化 , 也无法萌生新想法了。 

58 




Tourteau, Obsiblue Prawn , Oscietra Caviar , Cauliflower 

蟹肉、Obsiblue 蓝虾、Oscietra 顶级鱼子酱及白花菜 

Fast Food? I used to visit fast food chains as a teenager. 

However, as I progressed in my career, I realised that what 

they offer is the exact opposite of my cooking philosophy, 

which is to present an imaginative and innovative cuisine 

that celebrates and respects seasonality, terroir and the skills 

of the world’s best gourmet producers. What is your best 

recipe? My recipes are always evolving. I enjoy perfecting 

my dishes day after day, and am in the midst of creating 

a new dish to incorporate a fantastic seasonal ingredient. 

Your favorite ingredient? There are two ingredients I 

particularly enjoy using: mushrooms and citrus. Mushrooms 

are an ingredient that I experienced in abundance back in 

my home country, and working with this ingredient always 

brings back memories of home. Citrus on the other hand 

lends a refreshing hint in the taste it adds to dishes as well 

as the use of it – which is something new for me seeing 

that this ingredient is more commonly found in Asia. Your 

own guilty food indulgence? Artisan French cheeses. 

速食 ? 青少年时期三不五时会去连锁速食店报到 , 不过在厨 

师这条路上投注心力越来越多之后 , 感觉速食店的餐点好 

像和自己的料理信念背道而驰。我想要呈现的是带有想像 

力的创新菜色 , 礼赞并且尊重季节时令、各地风土及全球 

顶尖美食制造商的专业技术。最棒的食谱为何 ? 我的食谱 

无时无刻都在进化当中。每天我都想着如何作到完美 , 从 

中能以最棒的季节食材入菜 , 创作全新的料理。最爱的食 

材 ? 最爱用的两大食材 : 蘑菇和柑橘。我在家乡做菜时总少 

不了蘑菇 , 涵盖面非常丰富 , 每每用到蘑菇就会让我忆及家 

乡。柑橘的话 , 无论是入菜或单独使用 , 都能给料理带来清 

新的风味 , 对我来说是新的作法 , 话说回来柑橘在亚洲也 

较常见。私底下常偷吃什么东西为乐 ? 职人手工法式起司。 


Julien Royer 

CHEF DE CUISINE, JAAN, SINGAPORE 

60 




Crab Meat Salad with Oscietra Caviar 

蟹肉沙拉佐 Oscietra 顶级鱼子酱 

Who do you consider the world’s best chef(s)/restaurant? 

For me, I believe that there are many great chefs: I 

compare them to diamonds – any way you see them, they 

are beautiful, brilliant. What is your best recipe? Sashimi. 

You think this is not a recipe? But let me tell you: three 

ingredients is one too many. Sashimi you think is easy 

but you need to have the freshest fish, caught at the right 

moment; you need to store it correctly; you need to be very 

skillful to clean the fish; and very skillful to slice the fish. So 

to me, this is perfection. Your own guilty food indulgence? 

I don’t feel guilty. I just accept the consequences. Food 

trends? All I can say is that often, if a trend goes in one 

direction – I will go the opposite way. 

心目中世界级的最佳厨师或餐厅 ? 世界上有很多厉害的厨 

师 : 我喜欢用钻石来比喻 - 不管从什么角度看都那么美好和 

无懈可击。最棒的食谱为何 ? 生鱼片。大家可能想说这哪叫 

食谱 ? 不过先听我说 : 光是三种食材就已经够多了。生鱼片 

说来简单 , 但鱼要绝对新鲜 , 配合最佳的捕获时间、保存得 


当之后 , 再以娴熟的技巧清洗鱼身及片鱼才行。这才叫完美。 

私底下常偷吃什么东西为乐 ? 我都光明正大的吃 , 一点都不 

害臊 , 也没什么好怕的。料理趋势 ? 可以这么说吧 , 常常是 

现在流行什么 , 我就偏要反其道而行。 

Umberto Bombana 

CHEF & OWNER, 8½ OTTO E MEZZO BOMBANA, HONG KONG & SHANGHAI 

Each featured crab dish is available at the respective chef’s restaurant through the end of 2013. 

截至 2013 年底为止所报导之螃蟹料理于各大主厨的餐厅内均有供应。 

62 



tasting destination 

惊喜层层叠 

Layers of Delight 

At the Taj Mahal Hotel in New Delhi, India, Varq 

has earned a reputation as one of Asia’s best 

restaurants. Executive Chef Amit Chowdhury tickles 

diners with his eclectic culinary style, combining 

tradition, elegance, innovation and playfulness. 

64 


Meat Martaban: mutton pieces are combined with red pickled chilies and 

slow cooked in a ceramic jar to make a meltingly tender stew 

风味肉锅 : 羊肉块加上辛辣红色腌菜 , 放入陶瓮中炖煮至味道交融 , 入口即化。


Varqui Crab: a mille feuille concealing delicate morsels of coconut-flavored crab, topped with a delicious tandoori prawn 

Varqui Crab 风味蟹 : 千层糕镶以精巧的椰子调味蟹肉片 , 搭配美味的 tandoori 烤虾。 

WELCOMING GUESTS, Executive Chef Amit 

Chowdhury smiles through a clear bevelled 

glass window, encased by a black timber 

lattice frame. He is at the entrance of Varq 

Indian restaurant, a beautiful space in the 

Taj Mahal Hotel, New Delhi. The interior 

is a stunning blend of traditional and 

modern. One wall is covered with a bas relief 

mural painted with vegetable oils back in 

1979 by renowned India artist Anjolie Ela 

Menon. Stylish drum-shaped lampshades, 

fashioned from hundreds of hand-turned 

red glass beads, cast a warm light over the 

dining tables. 

“My style of cooking is eclectic, modern 

Indian cuisine – a mix of authentic Indian 

tradition and an innovative approach,” says 

Chef Chowdhury. “The décor of the restaurant 

reflects that.” 

His dishes surprise and delight with 

unexpected ingredients, innovative cooking 

techniques and exquisite, witty presentation. 

“Indian food is a sharing food, served 

family style. But I was trained to cook European 

food and I love plated food – it looks 

superb. So I wondered, ‘Why can’t we plate 

Indian food too?’” 

Chef Chowdhury decided to take traditional 

dishes and plate them in a modern, 

elegant manner without compromising his 

cooking technique or the flavors of the 

dishes. Four juicy pan-seared prawns are 

carefully balanced on a disc of saffron rice 

– a spicy Bengali dish served with hot mustard 

gravy. Fried edamame beans are dotted 

around the rice. These beans are a traditional 

Japanese snack, reinvented by Chef Chowdhury 

for Varq diners. “Edamame remind me 

of green peas, crunchy but with a buttery 

flavor. So I thought, ‘Why can’t we toss these 

in Indian spices and then have crunchy and 

buttery flavors too?’” 

Chef Chowdhury sometimes gets playful 

as he experiments. “I created a creamy 

chickpea soup which is served in a cappuccino 

cup,” he says. “It looks so realistic one 

diner said to the waiter: ‘But we didn’t order 

coffee!’ This soup is very popular now as it is 

utterly delicious as well as fun to eat.” 

Palak Methi Jackfruit: a tri-color tower of juicy jackfruit, spinach and saffron 

rice topped with shredded leeks and fresh coriander leaves 

Palak Methi 波罗蜜 : 精选多汁波罗蜜、菠菜及番红花饭做成三色塔 , 再缀上韭葱片及新鲜胡荽叶。 

新德里泰姬玛哈酒店「Varq」印度餐厅环境 

优美 , 透过裱以黑实木格状窗缘的斜面窗 

可看到行政主厨 Amit Chowdhury 满脸笑容 

站在入口处迎宾。餐厅装潢传统与现代并 

重 , 让人印象深刻。其中一面墙更可看到 

印度知名艺术家 Anjolie Ela Menon 在 1979 

年以植物性油为原料、挥洒而成的浮雕壁 

画作品。鼓状灯罩缀满数百个红色的手工 

串珠 , 造型时尚 , 在餐桌上映出温暖色调。 

Chowdhury 形容自家料理 :「兼容并蓄 , 

融合道地印度传统及创新手法 , 是现代风 

格的印度美馔。这些元素在餐厅装潢中也 

展露无遗。」 

他的菜能让人发现意想不到的食材 , 

令人惊喜 , 再加上创新技巧和别出心裁的 

摆盘 , 确实有独到之处。他说 :「印度菜常 

走大家庭风格 , 让大家一起分享 ; 但我受 

的是欧洲料理训练 , 对于盘菜情有独钟 , 



Executive Chef Amit Chowdhury 

Masala Sea Bass: delicate Chilean sea bass steamed with Indian spices, served on a bed of spinach and mushrooms and topped with a delicate chili flower 

Masala 海鲈 : 精选上等智利海鲈加上印度香料清蒸 , 以波菜及蘑菇铺盘 , 鱼肉缀上辣椒花即可上桌。 

Chef Chowdhury also likes to experiment 

with various kinds of fish. “Sea bass is not a 

common fish in India, but it has this beautiful 

flaky quality. People thought they could 

only get sea bass when they travelled or ate 

European food. Now they know when they 

come to Varq they will try something new, but 

the Indian flavors will always be there. I use 

scallops and black cod too and think carefully 

about which Indian spices best complement 

them. Guests are really tickled.” 

This approach appeals to both local and 

foreign diners. Indian guests can try new 

ingredients with familiar spices while visitors 

from abroad experience the flavors of India 

in a familiar context. 

Chef Chowdhury is particularly proud of 

one dish which he cooks in a completely new 

style. He brings an earthenware jar to the table, 

the type used by keen home cooks to preserve 

vegetables. “This is a martaban, a pickle jar,” 

he explains. “My grandmother used to make 

pickles and store them in something like this. 

But I was inspired to use this receptacle as a 

cooking pot.” Chunks of flavorful mutton are 

combined with spicy red pickles and cooked 

in the jar for over twelve hours. The Meat 

Martaban that results is a meltingly tender 

stew with a kick. “All the flavors are sealed 

in while the dish cooks, so you don’t lose 

any moisture,” says Chef Chowdhury. “We 

have taken a home-style method and created 

something unique. You can’t find a dish like 

this anywhere other than Varq.” 

And what about the name? “Varq means 

thin layers. It can refer to the thin sheets 

of beaten, edible silver found on tempting 

Indian sweets, or the thin layers of beaten 

gold leaf that dress the ceiling of our 

restaurant,” says Chef Chowdhury. Delicate 

flakes of gold or silver varq also appear on 

some of the dishes. One signature dish – 

an exquisite concoction of crispy filo pastry 

layered with fragrant, coconut-flavored crab 

meat – is called Varqui Crab. 

In the context of fine dining, the name 

Varq has come to mean sophistication. Chef 

Chowdhury sums it up perfectly: “Varq is a 

playful mix of upmarket street food with a 

twist, along with fine dining dishes. There is 

art on the wall and there is art on the plate.” 

看起来也赏心悦目。因此我想 ,『印度料理 

加摆盘会擦出什么火花 ?』」 

因此在原本烹饪技巧及料理味道的 

前提下 , 他开始试以现代典雅的摆盘方 

式来呈现传统印度菜。四只肥美多汁的 

铁板炙烧明虾置于弧状的番红花饭上 , 

比例恰好 - 为佐以热芥末肉酱的辣味孟 

加拉菜。米饭边缘还缀上日式传统下酒 

小点炸毛豆 , 是主厨专为「Varq」客人设 

计的巧思。他说 :「看到毛豆就想到豌豆 

酥脆绵密的口感 , 顿时就想到 ,『何不试 

把毛豆加进印度料理 , 增添酥脆及绵密 

的风味 ?』」 

Chowdhury 尝试新作法同时 , 常常玩 

兴大开 :「用卡布奇诺咖啡杯来盛奶香鹰嘴 

豆浓汤就是我的点子 , 不留心还真看不出 

来 , 某次真有客人向服务生说 :『我们没有 

点咖啡啊 !』这浓汤现仍大受欢迎 , 美味 

之余乐趣不减。」 

不时挖掘料理鱼类的可能性也是主厨 

的兴趣之一。提及海鲈他说道 :「这在印度 

并不常见 , 鱼肉的薄嫩质地非常讨好。想 

到鲈鱼 , 当地老饕老觉得要出国或去欧洲 

餐馆才吃得到 , 但现在只要来这 , 尝到新 

滋味同时也品味到印度菜的美食精华。我 

也常用扇贝和黑鳕鱼搭配精选印度香料 , 

大大满足饕客们的味蕾。」 

「Varq」的融合料理受到当地人及外来 

客的一致好评。印度客人能有新味觉体验 , 

同时沿用旧式香料 ; 外国游客则可品尝印 

度风味的熟悉食材及菜色。 

Chowdhury 还有道拿手的改良料理 , 

全新风格让他自豪不已。只见他把寻常 

家里用来保存蔬菜的陶瓮搬到桌上 , 接着 

解释 :「这叫 martaban, 专用于腌菜 , 我 

祖母把自制腌菜都放到这种瓮里。但我看 

来 , 这也能当作煮锅。」块块分明的入味 

羊肉放进瓮里 , 加入辛辣的红色腌菜熬煮 

十二个小时以上。用「风味肉锅」长时间 

炖煮的食材入口即化 , 带着鲜明后味。主 

厨说 :「熬煮时美味封存瓮中 , 保留完整 

水份。我们用印度家庭烹饪法孕育出独特 

味道 , 此味只有『Varq』有 , 别处可吃不 

到。」 

关于餐厅名字缘由 , 主厨解释 :「字面 

指薄层 , 可代表印度甜点上薄如纸的诱人 

食用银箔 , 也能是装饰餐厅天花板的金箔 

叶片。」而在餐厅的招牌菜上也看得到层叠 

的精致金银箔片 ,「Varq」的人气酥脆千层 

糕就缀以多层香气四溢、椰子调味的蟹肉 , 

名为「Varqui Crab」风味蟹。 

68 



sponsored feature 


 

 

意式珍馐 

cova’s treasure trove 

Renowned for its delicious Italian cakes, chocolates and coffee, Milano gem Cova 

also serves savory delights to lure guests from the Pasticceria into the Ristorante. 

 

 

COVA’S ITALIAN MENU PHILOSOPHY originates at the mother establishment 

in Milan, Italy, open since 1817, where Executive Chef Eduardo Gadda uses 

the best fresh ingredients to cook elegant classics. In collaboration with 

Gadda, the Cova chefs in Hong Kong serve lovely, robustly-flavored dishes. 

A rare type of carpaccio features slow-cooked duck breast cut 

tagliata style. Sliced thicker than a typical carpaccio, the complex flavor 

of the duck is brought into perfect focus by the accompanying fresh 

homemade horseradish sauce, dollops of creamy foie gras, and sweet 

candied rhubarb. Fresh tomatoes and giant red prawns from the waters off 

southern Italy, served head and all atop a pile of perfectly cooked pasta, 

make for an addictive favorite. And a delicious pan-fried Mediterranean 

white snapper shows off Cova’s philosophy to perfection: the delicate 

flavor and texture of the flaky white fish are given the spotlight and 

allowed to shine. 

Since it’s Cova, there’s never any doubt about the quality of the finale. 

All the desserts are scrumptious. Cool sweet granita with cubes of mango 

and melon makes a deliciously light and refreshing choice – just light enough 

so that you’ll easily be able to persuade yourself to stop at the Pasticceria 

on your way out. 

早于 1817 年 ,COVA 首间餐厅于意大利米兰开业 , 

如今则成为行政总厨 Eduardo Gadda 尽展才华的 

地方。坚持只采用最新鲜顶级食材 , 以简约精巧 

手法演译经典意菜。在共同创作下 , 香港 Cova 

主厨及团队紧随此烹调理念 , 简单原味 , 不时不食 , 

呈献道道卖相精致的高级意式佳肴。 

其意式生肉薄片 carpaccio 尤其独树一格 , 

采用慢煮鸭胸为食材 , 并以 tagliata 风格切片 , 

比一般肉片稍厚 , 另佐以新鲜自制辣根酱、少许 

绵密鹅肝及蜜渍大黄 , 配搭独特。红虾鲜蕃茄意 

大利面选用新鲜蕃茄 , 加上意大利南部海域捕捞 

的大只红虾 , 搭配煮得恰到好处的意粉 , 是餐厅 

极受欢迎的菜色。而香煎地中海白鲷鱼 , 则更能 

突显 Cova 追求完美的理念 , 鲷鱼肉质细嫩 , 味 

道清鲜 , 让顾客留下深刻印象。 

身处 Cova, 压轴的甜点绝对让人翘首期待。 

清凉可口的 granita 雪葩加上芒果与甜瓜切丁 , 甜 

而不腻 , 让人餐后意犹未尽 , 必品尝一番才餍足 

而归。 

PHOTOS 4 AND 5 COURTESY OF COVA 

 

 

 

 

 

Carpaccio Di Petto D’Anitra con Mousse Di Fegato D’Oca, Rafana & Rabararo 

Slow-cooked Duck Breast Carpaccio with Foie Gras Mousse, served 

with Candied Rhubarb, Crispy Croutons & Horseradish Sauce 

慢煮鸭胸伴鹅肝酱、糖渍大黄配辣根汁 

The elegant dining room of COVA Caffè-Ristorante 

优雅的 COVA 意大利餐厅 

Spaghettini Con Gamberi Rossi Nella Sua Salsa 

Spaghettini with Red Prawns, Fresh Tomatoes & Bisque 

红虾、鲜蕃茄意大利面 

Dentice Con Fantasia D’Asparagi, Zabaglione Salato e Crema Al Limone e Capperi 

Pan-fried Mediterranean White Snapper with Green and 

White Asparagus and Salty Sabayon & Sour Capers Quenelles 

香煎地中海鲷鱼配鲜白露荀及荷兰汁 

Diplomatica 

Gianduia & White Chocolate Mousse Mille Foglie 

黑白巧克力慕丝千层拿破仑酥 

Biscotto Alle Mandorle, Panna Cotta Di Ricotta, 

Cubetti Di Melone & Mango Granita 

Almond Biscotto Filled with Ricotta Panna Cotta, 

with Melon, Passion Fruit Aspic & Mango Sherbet 

乳清芝士奶冻伴蜜瓜 , 热情果酱配芒果雪葩 

 

70 

| TK | flavor dna


华丽的传统 

magnificent tradition 

At Hotel Okura Macau’s Yamazato, Chef Akira Hayashi draws on centuries 

of tradition, his grandmother’s Kyoto cooking and a sharp eye for detail. 

“MY COOKING STYLE is very traditional,” says 

Akira Hayashi, Executive Chef of Japanese 

Cuisine at Hotel Okura Macau’s signature 

restaurant Yamazato. “I want to pass these 

skills on to the next generation – that is very 

important to me.” 

At Yamazato he serves traditional dishes 

such as steamed Japanese vegetables, an 

assortment of superb sushi, and brilliantly 

conceived and executed multi-course kaiseki 

meals. “To make kaiseki you must have a 

good imagination. A chef is like an artist, 

like a designer.” 

Chef Akira learned to cook by watching 

his grandmother in their Kyoto kitchen. “My 

cooking techniques are from western Japan. 

Our food is milder than food from the east. 

Tea ceremonies began in the west, and it was 

important to savor the tea taste, so food was 

not very strong in flavor.” 

When he wants to give an extra burst of 

flavor to a dish, Chef Akira reaches for the 

red miso. “The longer the fermentation, the 

darker the color and the stronger the taste. The 

intense salty flavor is especially great for fish.” 

Underneath the creativity and timehonored 

skills lies an obsession with 

detail. Chef Akira personally checks every 

plate before it leaves for the dining room. 

“Everything must be perfect. The most 

important thing is to think about the person 

who will eat the dish.” 

「我的料理风格非常传统。」澳门大仓酒店 

招牌日本料理餐厅「山里」的行政总厨林 

彰说道。「我想将这些料理技术传承下去 

- 这对我而言是非常重要的任务。」 

在「山里」除了可以品尝传统的日本 

料理如炖煮野菜、寿司定食等 , 还有别出 

心裁、精致华美的怀石料理。「制作怀石 

料理必须尽情发挥想像力。因此料理师傅 

就如同艺术家和设计师一般。」 

总厨是透过观察京都家中的老祖母在 

厨房悉心为家人准备餐食而学会料理制作 

的。「我的料理技术孕育自关西。西部的 

料理口味比东部温和清爽 , 著名的茶道也 

源自西部。因此怀石料理搭配茶品时 , 为 

不掩盖茶韵 , 料理多以清淡为主。」 

为了料理口味更有层次 , 总厨选用红 

味噌。「腌渍的时间越长 , 颜色会变得更深 , 

味道也会更浓烈。丰厚的盐渍口味特别适 

合用于制作鱼类料理。」 

隐藏在创造力和精湛技术之下的 , 是 

对每一项细节的严格要求。上菜前的例行 

检查 , 主厨从不假他人之手。「最重要的 

是让每位来用餐的顾客都尽兴 , 因此每个 

环节都必须尽善尽美。」 

Yamazato 山里 



美味腌肉之最 

the perfect cure 

SalumiAmo brings the best Italian 

cured meats to Hong Kong and Macau. 

EDMOND LEONG 



EDMON LEONG 

FROM AS FAR BACK as the days of the Roman Empire, Italy has had a love affair 

with the diverse cured meats known as salumi. From prosciutto crudo and 

prosciutto cotto, to salame, mortadella, pancetta, and coppa, the centuries-old 

methods of curing meats are a delicious part of Italy’s ancient food heritage. 

Mostly made from pork, salumi can also be made from beef, lamb, and other 

meats. Some are salt-cured, smoked and air-dried, while others are preserved 

in fats or cooked into sausages and pates. SalumiAmo, an Italian initiative to 

celebrate, share and raise awareness of these specialty cured meats, is making 

its debut in Hong Kong and Macau from 15 November to 6 December 2013. At 

Master Classes and special tasting evenings, Italian Chef Fabio Ugoletti will 

present some of the finest cured meats and describe the traditional methods 

for making them. Guests can sample a variety of salumi at Aqua Spirit, Aqua 

Armani and GIANDO from 20-22 November; at DiVino, DiVino Patio and 

Spasso from 27-29 November; at Gaia, Joia and DOMANI Restaurant 

from 4-6 December, and at Aurora at Altira Macau from the 24-27 and 29 

November. Venue courtesy of GIANDO restaurant. § 说起意大利对腌制 

肉品的热情 , 不得不远朔到罗马帝国时期 , 这些历经世代更替淬炼创造 

出的各式腌肉 , 通称「salumi」( 萨路米 )。不论是巴马火腿、熟火腿、萨 

拉米香肠、摩德代拉香肠、意大利切片培根和库巴式风干火腿 , 这些遵 

循古法而制的美味肉品 , 是意大利最珍贵的饮食文化资产。意大利腌肉 

最常使用猪肉 , 有时也用牛、羊或者其他肉类。肉品制法很多种 , 像是 

抹上盐巴腌渍、烟熏风干、浸泡在油中 , 或碾碎成泥作成腊肠或抹酱。 

首届 SalumiAmo, 将于十一月十五日到十二月六日在香港和澳门首度隆 

重登场 , 除了赞扬、分享意大利美食 , 更借此机会让更多人认识这些美 

味无比的意大利腌肉。在美食讲座与品评会上 , 主厨 Fabio Ugoletti 将准 

备上等意大利腌肉 , 并逐步解说制作腌肉的独特秘方。您可于以下时间 

与地点亲尝各式美味的意大利腌肉 :11 月 20 至 22 日在 Aqua Spirit、Aqua 

Armani 和 GIANDO;11 月 27 至 29 日在 DiVino, DiVino Patio 和 Spasso; 

12 月 4 至 6 日在 Gaia, Joia 和 DOMANI;11 月 24 至 27 以及 29 日在澳门新濠 

锋酒店奥罗拉餐厅。 

PROSCIUTTO CRUDO 

Both prosciutto di San Daniele and 

prosciutto di Parma come from the rear 

thighs of local pigs. The legs are rubbed 

with salt and then washed, brushed, 

dried, and left to age for at least twelve 

months. During the aging process, they 

lose more than a quarter of their weight 

as the salt soaks up the moisture, giving 

the meat a strong, concentrated flavor. 

/ 圣丹尼耶尔火腿和巴马火腿皆以产地 

命名 , 取自当地养殖猪只的后腿肉 , 抹 

以盐巴使其入味 , 再冲洗、刷净多余盐 

分 , 悬挂风干至少十二个月。熟成过程 

中 , 腿肉重量减少约四分之一 , 盐分充 

分吸附油脂 , 使肉片散发出浓郁香气。 



SALAME 

A mixture of lean pork, fat, salt, pepper 

and garlic gives salame its typical marbled 

appearance. The meat is left to ferment 

before being placed into casings, tied 

and matured. The ratio of protein to fat, 

color, taste, texture and size are carefully 

controlled: each salame is approximately 

fifteen centimeters long and less than six 

wide. / 肥猪肉和瘦肉混合 , 盐、胡椒、 

大蒜交错其间 , 形成萨拉米香肠典型大理 

石纹路。经过灌肠衣、捆绑、熟成后 , 透 

过发酵腌制出独特风味。制作过程中 , 蛋 

白质和脂肪的比例、色泽、香味、口感、 

尺寸都必须严谨地监控 ; 每条萨拉米香肠 

必须是十五公分长、厚度不能超过六公分。 

MORTADELLA 

Made from finely-ground, heat-cured pork sausage, Mortadella originated in 

Bologna and gets its name from the mortar and pestle it was once made with. 

Black pepper adds spice to the meat, while pistachios give it texture. To be a true 

Mortadella, the ratio of pork to fat must be correct and each slice must have an 

evenly distributed amount of its highly-prized fat lardons. / 摩德代拉香肠是将猪 

肉碾碎、加入香料后灌入肠衣并下锅烹煮而成。源自于波隆那 , 以制作香肠使用的 

研钵和杵命名。黑胡椒使香肠充满香气 , 开心果带出它微脆的口感。道地的摩德 

代拉香肠 , 肉中油脂比例是不能轻忽的 , 必须让每片肉片都含有均匀分布的油花。 

EDMON LEONG 

PROSCIUTTO COTTO 

Prosciutto cotto is the cooked variety of prosciutto, and is renowned for its velvety 

texture and sweet, aromatic flavor. Prime, deboned pork thigh is massaged with salt, 

pepper, bay leaves and juniper and steamed in a special rounded mold. The skin is 

left on the meat to lock in the moisture and flavors. / Prosciutto cotto 指煮过的火腿 , 

以柔软滑顺的口感和香甜芬芳的味道而闻名。帕马火腿使用去骨猪大腿肉 , 保留猪皮 

以锁住油脂和香气 , 浸入以盐巴、胡椒、月桂叶和松子混合的香料充分按摩 , 接着放 

入特殊的圆锅熬煮而成。 

78 

| TK | flavor dna


欢乐迎佳节 

’tis the season 

Christmas is the season to share great 

food with great company and restaurants 

at Galaxy Macau are getting into 

the spirit with holiday menus that 

showcase their signature Christmas 

dishes. Celebrate the festive season and 

satisfy every holiday craving with classic 

Christmas dishes at Galaxy Macau. 

「澳河」综合渡假城推出经典圣诞 

大餐 , 与您同庆欢乐佳节。圣诞节最适合 

与亲朋好友共享美味佳肴 , 渡假城内各家 

餐厅秉持欢度圣诞的精神 , 推出各式招牌 

圣诞餐点 , 菜色多元 , 佳节美馔应有尽 

有 , 定能满足每一个食客欢度假期的渴望。 

Christmas Pudding With Brandy Sauce 

Festiva: Executive Sous Chef Daniel Sheen 

Festiva Chef Daniel Sheen uses a 100-year-old recipe to make his Christmas 

pudding, but has given it a little twist to make it deliciously moist and even 

tastier. He soaks the dried fruits for six months before Christmas and adds 

alcohol every week to retain and intensify the flavors. Flavored with nutmeg, 

cinnamon, cloves, ginger, and apple, Chef Sheen says cooking with passion and 

love is the secret to a wonderful Christmas pudding. 

圣诞布丁配白兰地汁 

群芳餐厅 : 行政总厨戴宏翱 

行政总厨戴宏翱以流传百年的作法制作圣诞布丁 , 并稍加变化 , 使之更湿润美味。 

在圣诞节前六个月 , 他就开始浸泡水果干 , 并且每个礼拜都多加点酒以保存并 

强化水果的味道 , 之后再加入肉豆蔻、肉桂、丁香、生姜、苹果等配料。总厨 

认为 , 对甜点抱持着爱与热情 , 就是做出美味圣诞布丁的关键秘方。 

Home-Smoked Salmon Carpaccio, Almond 

and Dill Pesto, Arugula, and Lemon Oil Foam 

Terrazza: Chef de Cuisine Gleb Snegin 

Salmon can be found on the tables of many Italian families at Christmas. For 

this dish, Chef Gleb Snegin smokes the salmon with real pinewood, which 

gives it a slightly sweet, smoky flavor that contrasts beautifully with the 

bitterness of the arugula and crunchy almonds. To slice perfect carpaccio, says 

Chef Snegin, you need a perfectly sharpened knife, strong and steady hands, 

and a precise eye. 

自制烟熏三文鱼薄片配杏仁刁草酱、火箭菜及柠檬油泡沫 

庭园意大利餐厅 : 总厨格雷宝 

三文鱼是圣诞节许多意大利家庭的桌上佳肴。为了这道菜 , 总厨格雷宝特别选 

用纯正松木熏制三文鱼 , 使三文鱼带有微甜的烟熏味 , 再配上微苦的芝麻菜及 

香脆的杏仁。总厨表示 , 要切好熏三文鱼薄片 , 除了刀子要锋利 , 手要稳且够力 , 

眼睛判断下刀位置也得精确才行。 

80 




Cod Fish Fillet With Cod Fish Tongue Rice and Coriander 

Gosto: Chef de Cuisine Mario Gil 

Cod fish is the most common ingredient on Portuguese tables at Christmas 

time, and tradition demands that it must be served with cabbage, egg and 

baked potatoes. Gosto Chef de Cuisine Mario Gil has created a dish that 

represents the season and gives diners the enjoyment of classic Portuguese 

comfort food. Portuguese cuisine perfectly combines garlic, olive oil and 

coriander, and this delicious trio of ingredients is cooked sous-vide with the cod 

fish, sealing in all the flavors and aromas and ensuring the perfect texture. 

特色马介休 

葡轩 : 总厨马俊杰 

马介休是葡萄牙在圣诞节时最常见的食材 , 传统上通常搭配包心菜、蛋与烤马 

铃薯。总厨马俊杰设计的这道佳肴不仅带出了佳节氛围 , 更让食客享受到令人 

大呼满足的经典葡萄牙美食。这道葡萄牙料理选用大蒜、橄榄油和香菜 , 再将 

这三种食材与马介休一起真空低温烹调 , 封存所有的滋味与香气 , 口感绝佳。 

COURTESY OF GALAXY 

Christmas Chocolate Yule Log 

Cascades: Pastry Chef de Cuisine Grosse Smita 

Since medieval times, it has been a tradition to bake Yule Log cakes for 

Christmas Eve. Chef Grosse Smita prepares her Yule Log the old-fashioned 

way, with chocolate as the main ingredient, but favors a more contemporary 

presentation. Rich and chocolaty, flavored with festive gingerbread crumbs, the 

Yule Log is paired with a creamy vanilla sauce or a sweet-sour raspberry coulis. 

圣诞节日蛋糕 

水帘 : 糕饼总厨殷柏维 

从中世纪时期开始 , 在圣诞节前夕烤圣诞树头蛋糕成为一个传统习俗。糕饼总 

厨殷柏维以朱古力为主原料 , 采用传统方式烘培 , 但外表展现现代美。朱古力 

味浓郁 , 撒上充满节庆气氛的姜饼面包屑 , 再搭配香滑的云尼拿酱或酸甜的覆 

盆子酱 , 滋味满分。 

82 



tasting notes 

泰正宗依善菜 

Isaan ingenuity 

Chachawan Executive Chef Adam Cliff revels 

in the native flavors of authentics food. 

THAILAND’S RURAL NORTHEASTERN REGION 

is called Isaan. Bordered by Laos and the 

Mekong River to the north and east, and 

by Cambodia to the south, it is a flat, hot 

region dominated by rice paddies and big 

skies. Isaan’s farmers keep enough rice to 

feed their families and then sell the surplus 

to buy other food. Money is tight. Most Isaan 

people can’t buy large quantities of meat or 

vegetables, and so their self-sufficient cuisine 

relies on a repertoire of strong, salty, 

sour, and spicy seasonings to flavor dishes 

accompanied by plenty of rice. 

Chachawan Executive Chef Adam Cliff 

delights in the native flavors and ingredients 

of Isaan. “Sourness is provided by Thai 

limes,” he explains. “They are sharper than 

any other limes I have tasted. If you swallow 

their juice unsweetened it makes the 

glands in your neck wince.” Together with 

the astringent Thai limes, Isaan cuisine uses 

different chilies for different flavor purposes. 

“Isaan cuisine uses six or seven different 

fresh chilies,” explains Cliff. “Some deliver 

a kick, others are more floral.” 

Fresh herbs feature frequently in Isaan 

dishes. “It’s a very adaptable cuisine,” says 

Cliff. “Instead of going to a shop … the 

people of Isaan walk down the street or 

wander into their jungle to collect a bouquet 

of herbs and cook with them.” Thailand’s 

在泰国东北 , 大片乡地被称「依善 (Isaan)」 

区 , 气候温热 , 地势平坦 , 放眼尽是稻 

田及广阔天空。依善农家务农首要填饱肚 

子 , 多余农获才另行贩售来购买其他食 

物。因手头不宽裕 , 依善人大多无法大量 

买进肉类或蔬菜 , 故地方菜色使用咸、酸、 

辣等重口味调配 , 增添菜肴的风味来下 

饭。 

香港「Chachawan」泰式餐馆行政总厨 

Adam Cliff 对依善菜的独特风味及食材情 

有独钟 :「依善菜的酸来自泰国莱姆 , 味道 

是我尝过最酸最呛的 , 只喝果汁不稀释 , 

绝对酸到让你颈部抽搐。除了莱姆 , 依善 

料理也善用多种辣椒营造味道。」他强调 : 

「至少六到七种辣椒 , 有些带辣劲 , 其他则 

偏花香气息。」 

依善菜也常见新鲜草本植物。总厨表 

示 :「依善料理因地制宜 , 适应性强 , 当 

地人通常在路边或丛林中采集草木 , 放入 

料理烹煮。」因雨季甚长 , 辣椒肥厚 , 而 

野生植物汁多、个头大 , 却不对 Cliff 的胃 

口 :「植物含水量高 , 味道就稀释了 , 反 

而是干季的植物味道浓郁 , 适合入菜烹调 

依善料理。」 

依善菜常用高良姜、鲜姜黄及柠檬草等 

草本植物来调和肉类的特有骚味。Cliff 进 

一步说明 :「依善文化中 , 鸡鸭或猪都在家 

放养 , 喂食及成长都与别国如澳洲或法国 

等大相径庭 , 因而味道更强也偏浓重。」但 

肉骚味反而是亮点 :「吃依善菜就要这味 , 

在肉骚和花香草本气味间取得巧妙平衡。 

Khao Niew 28: 

steamed Thai Sticky Rice 

蒸泰国糯米饭 

Executive Chef Adam Cliff 


tasting notes 

Gai Yung 158: chicken thigh marinated for 

24 hours in garlic, pepper, and coriander; 

then grilled till crispy; served with jhim jeaw 

24 小时以蒜头、胡椒、辣椒、芫荽 

腌制的鸡腿 , 佐以 Jhim Jeaw 酱 

long wet season swells the chilies and makes 

the wild herbs plump and juicy. Cliff thinks 

this is not such a great thing: “The problem 

is that the flavor becomes diluted by 

the amount of water in the plants. In the 

dry season the herbs have the intensity you 

need when cooking Isaan dishes.” 

Herbs like galangal, fresh turmeric and 

lemongrass are used to complement a musky 

quality in the meat. “Chickens, pigs and 

ducks are raised in the house in Isaan culture. 

Their feed and upkeep is very different 

than for animals raised, say, in Australia or 

France. Their flavor is stronger and more 

intense.” But Cliff does not feel the muskiness 

of the meat is a negative; quite the 

reverse: “You need it. Isaan dishes need that 

interplay between musky meat and floral 

herbs. I have actually struggled using meats 

that lacked that muskiness – we couldn’t hit 

the proper flavor notes.” 

Cliff has an instinctive understanding 

of how spices interact with the ingredients 

they season. One point he highlights is the 

role of fat in a dish. His chopped duck salad 

is given some heat with dried, roasted, and 

ground chili peppers, and then fragranced 

with kaffir lime leaves, long leaf coriander, 

and spring onions. “This dish has a roundness 

to it. The fat from the duck coats your 

mouth and helps mute the heat of the chili. 

There’s a meatiness and spiciness which is 

very satisfying.” 

By contrast, his classic papaya salad is 

prepared without any oil whatsoever. Long 

shreds of fresh green papaya are mixed with 

sliced red chilies and tiny whole peanuts, 

sourced from Thailand for their firm, dry 

texture. The dressing combines richly sweet 

palm sugar with sharp Thai lime. “I like to 

serve this salad with a grilled chicken dish 

on the side,” says Cliff. “It just needs that 

fat from the chicken, to give you a satisfying 

mouth feel.” 

The palm sugar Cliff uses is a subject 

close to his heart. He favors organic, which 

comes as a pure, smooth paste. “Natural 

palm sugar has a caramel flavor that lingers 

on the palate. It has a more gentle sweetness, 

like molasses. We don’t want the sweet 

notes coming up too loudly. Artificial white 

sugar has a harshness that damages the 

other flavors in a dish.” 

But the main event in Isaan food is the 

sticky rice. “Sticky rice is what is grown in 

the Isaan region. It takes longer to digest 

than jasmine rice as there is more starch in 

it, so it makes the perfect meal after a long 

day working on the farm, and goes perfectly 

with robustly flavored Isaan dishes.” Sticky 

rice can also be used to add texture and 

flavor to dipping sauces. “I take uncooked 

rice, toast it off in a pan, then grind it to 

a powder,” says Cliff. “The resulting flour 

is used to add body to dishes and is more 

flavorful than plain rice flour. My grilled 

chicken has toasted rice powder in its dipping 

sauce.” 

To get an authentic Isaan flavor, Cliff 

sources 85 percent of his ingredients directly 

from Thailand. “We have one or two deliveries 

a day. The most expensive ingredients 

that I buy are Thai limes – I air freight them 

in and they are really heavy! Some people 

use bottled lime juice or local limes but I say 

you can’t skimp. You need that perfect sourness 

to create a true Isaan dish.” 

处理不带骚味的肉倒让我施展不开 , 找不 

到恰好味道。」 

总厨对于香料如何画龙点睛有敏锐直觉 , 

菜中油脂是注重地方之一。如切片鸭肉沙 

拉佐以干烤的磨碎胡椒增加了入口的灼热 

感 , 再加上青柠叶、长叶胡荽及青葱增添 

气味。他形容 :「这菜吃来口感圆润 , 鸭肉 

油脂覆住口腔 , 正好作为胡椒呛辣口感的 

缓冲 , 肉汁满溢同时又带辣呛口感 , 着实 

叫人心满意足。」 

Cliff 的青木瓜沙拉则走清淡路线 , 鲜青 

木瓜刨成长丝 , 加上切片红辣椒及泰国干 

硬扎实的特有小型花生 , 酱汁用甜腻的棕 

榈糖及爽呛的泰国莱姆调制。「青木瓜沙拉 

搭配烤鸡再适合不过 , 搭配鸡肉肉汁享用 , 

绝对大呼过瘾。」所用的棕榈糖可说是总厨 

的心头好 , 含有机成分且带纯净滑顺的浓 

稠质感。他说 :「天然的棕榈糖带些许焦糖 

味 , 停在味蕾久久不去 , 但甜度不会太过 , 

就像糖蜜般温和 , 如此甜味才不至喧宾夺 

主。人工白糖细致不够 , 会破坏料理的其 

他美味。」 

而依善菜主角非米饭莫属 , 总厨解释 : 

「依善地区的糯米内含淀粉比例高 , 相较茉 

莉米需要更多消化时间 , 正好适合整天务 

农的体力所需 , 与重口味的依善菜也是绝 

配。」糯米运用得当 , 也可让沾酱口感及味 

道更为丰富 ,Cliff 不吝分享 :「米粒直接 

放平底锅干烘后 , 磨成糯米粉 , 可增加料 

理的整体份量 , 比一般白米粉味道更多元 , 

像我的特制烤鸡就可搭配加入糯米粉的沾 

酱品尝。」 

Cliff 为求原汁原味 , 高达百分之八十五 

的食材都由泰国直送。他说 :「一天进货一 

到两次 , 而泰国莱姆重量重 , 又用空运 , 

花费最多 ! 有人为方便用罐装莱姆汁或本 

地产的莱姆 , 于我而言这钱可省不得。毕 

竟没有恰好的酸味 , 又哪来正宗的依善菜 

呢 ?」 

86 



tasting notes 

Bombay Dreams 

Head Chef Devi Singh’s 

fragrant dishes 

are food for the Gods.

tasting notes 

Murgh Aur Hare Pyaz ki Shammi 香煎鸡肉饼 

Head Chef Devi Singh 

“EVERY REGION OF INDIA uses spices in its 

cooking,” says Bombay Dreams Head Chef 

Devi Singh, surrounded by jars filled with 

powders, sticks and seeds. “We don’t eat 

bland food!” 

Indian cooking uses both fresh herbs 

and dried spices. Beyond adding flavor to 

dishes, spices and herbs are also believed 

to have medicinal qualities – they warm the 

body, aid digestion and ward off disease. “We 

use spices in medicines as well as cooking,” 

explains Chef Singh. “White peppercorns are 

a component of cough syrup and cardamom 

is a key ingredient of skin cream.” 

Fresh herbs feature in dishes that are 

cooked quickly and eaten immediately. Dried 

whole spices are added to stews, where they 

linger over a gentle heat for several hours, 

slowly releasing their sweet aromas. These 

whole spices can also be ground to a powder 

and toasted in oil, which is then used to cook 

meat or vegetables, adding a fragrant kick. 

A large hot plate, known as a tawa, is 

sizzling loudly in Singh’s kitchen. On it he 

is searing small patties of ground chicken 

and bell pepper – Murgh Aur Hhare Pyaz ki 

Shammi. “This is typical Northern Indian 

street food,” says Singh. “The patties 

themselves are fresh tasting and just have 

a little ginger, garlic and white pepper to 

season them. But we serve them with a 

sauce made from fresh green herbs and 

green chilies – that’s where the flavor 

comes from.” The sauce is a blend of mint, 

coriander, green chili and lemon juice. Bright 

green, the texture of mayonnaise, it tastes 

light but assertive with chili heat. 

Nearby, bubbling quietly on the stove, 

is a Kashmiri delicacy called Lamb Rogan 

Josh – chunks of juicy lamb slow-cooked in 

a rich, thick sauce, flavored with an array of 

whole dried spices. “Dried spices need time 

to release their flavor, so we cook this dish 

over a low fire for a long time,” says Singh. 

Rogan Josh means “warming” – it’s a perfect 

dish for the chilly, mountainous reaches 

of Kashmir. A heady mix of whole chilies, 

cinnamon, cumin seeds, bay leaf, mace and 

two different types of cardamom produces 

the rich, spicy heat. 

The two types of cardamom are very 

different in appearance. Small cardamom 

is a faded green, caper-shaped pod, which 

when cooked produces a scent like young 

Bombay Dreams 主厨 Devi Singh 置身在一 

罐罐香料粉末、条梗、种子之间 , 告诉我们 : 

「印度每个地区烹调都会使用香料 , 我们不 

吃平淡无味的食物 !」 

印度料理同时使用新鲜香草与干燥香 

料 , 除了增添菜肴风味 , 据信也有温暖身 

体、帮助消化和祛除疾病的功效 , 颇具药 

用价值。 Singh 解释 :「香料既能入菜也能 

入药 , 白胡椒粒可以用于止咳糖浆 , 小豆 

蔻更是护肤霜的重要成分。」 

现炒现吃的菜式中会加入新鲜香草 , 

炖煮菜色则加入整粒未研磨的干燥香料 , 

以文火炖上几个小时 , 慢慢释放芳香的气 

味。整颗香料也可以磨成粉 , 放入油中加 

热 , 用来烹煮肉类或蔬菜 , 增添诱人香气。 

在 Singh 的厨房重地 , 大型铁板 (tawa) 

烧得滋滋作响 , 上面烤着填入鸡蓉和甜椒 

的小馅饼 (Murgh Aur Hhare Pyaz ki Shammi)。 

Singh 说明 :「这是经典的北印度小吃 , 

味道清新 , 只用一点姜、蒜、白胡椒调味 , 

但同时会附上新鲜绿色香草与绿辣椒做的 

沾酱 , 吃起来滋味十足。」酱料混合了薄荷、 

芫荽、绿辣椒及柠檬汁 , 调配好的酱汁呈 

现鲜绿色 , 质地如同蛋黄酱 , 滋味清爽但 

火辣十足。 

旁边炉上静静冒着泡泡的 , 是一道 

喀什米尔名菜 - 小羊肉香料咖喱 (Lamb 


tasting notes 

branches burning on a fire. It is placed whole 

into the curry and cooked slowly to liberate 

its pure, fresh fragrance. Large cardamom is 

a withered black pod. “This one we crush,” 

explains Singh. “We want the seeds from 

the inside.” The large cardamom seeds have 

a faint menthol taste and a mild numbing 

effect on the mouth. 

One of the Bombay Dreams chefs has 

chipped loose a fragment from a large black 

salt crystal. As he pounds it to grey powder 

in a pestle, it releases a sulfurous scent, the 

smell of natural hot springs, pungent and 

verging on overpowering. “We call it black 

salt,” says Singh. “It smells a bit like eggs 

but it is really good for the stomach and it 

delivers a special flavor to the food – better 

than table salt.” 

He uses the black salt in the Hyderabad 

dish Mirch Baingan Ka Salan – young 

eggplant simmered in rich peanut and 

almond gravy, fragranced with a mix of 

whole and powdered dried spices. To make 

the sauce, cumin seeds, mustard seeds and 

fenugreek are fried in a little oil. “Once you 

hear the seeds start to pop, it is time to add 

the vegetables,” says Singh. Further flavor 

Lamb Rogan Josh 辣椒洋葱煮羊肉 

is provided by a mix of fifteen spices known 

as Garam Masala and another mysterious 

powder with a queer, darkly sour taste that 

Singh describes as “sweet-sour powder.” 

These different flavors meld together and 

complement each other. The sulfurous salt 

presents as a rich smoky note, the sweet-sour 

powder amplifies the quiet floral notes of the 

fenugreek and mustard and complements 

the smoky scent of the cumin. Finally Sing 

adds a little coconut milk, and the sweetness 

creates a final glorious flavor harmony. 

From the kitchen, Singh fetches a 

pullao – a clay pot filled with perfect grains 

of basmati rice, sweet carrots and al dente 

cauliflower, all topped with strands of bright 

yellow saffron. Harvested from the centre 

of a crocus flower, just a few strands are 

sufficient to perfume a whole dish. 

“We use a lot of different spices in 

our cooking,” says Singh. “You need to 

understand the individual aromas of the 

spices and then know how to combine them 

to create wonderful dishes. Different regions 

favor different spices but there is one that 

you find in every Indian kitchen. It’s the true 

flavor of India.” 

Rogan Josh)。浓郁醇厚的酱汁中 , 加进好 

几种整粒的干燥香料 , 放入大块鲜美多汁 

的小羊肉 , 细火慢炖。 

Singh 解释 :「干燥香料要煮一段时 

间才能释放风味 , 所以这道菜会以小火炖 

上很长一段时间。」「Rogan Josh」的意思 

是「变暖」, 很适合喀什米尔寒冷的山陵 

地区 , 整枝辣椒、肉桂、整粒小茴香籽、 

月桂叶、肉豆蔻皮、两种不同的豆蔻 , 混 

合在一起 , 那馥郁辛辣的香气 , 令人闻了 

飘飘欲仙。 

这道菜里的两种豆蔻外表大异其趣 , 

小豆蔻是浅绿色的豆荚 , 形状像酸豆 , 烹 

煮后会放出燃烧的气味。烹煮时 , 整粒放 

入咖喱中慢炖 , 释放纯净、清新的香味。 

大豆蔻则是外表干瘪的黑色豆荚 ,Singh 

解释道 :「这种香料要磨碎 , 只取里面的种 

子。」大豆蔻子有淡淡的薄荷味 , 吃在嘴里 

有点麻麻的。 

Bombay Dreams 的厨师从一大块黑色 

结晶盐上削下几粒 , 接着用槌子把盐块研 

磨成灰色粉末 , 散发出一股硫磺气味 , 闻 

起来像天然温泉 , 味道相当刺激 , 近乎刺鼻。 

Singh 说 :「这叫黑盐 , 闻起来有点像鸡蛋 

的味道 , 不过它对胃很好 , 而且能赋予料 

理独特的风味 , 比精盐好用。」 

Singh 将黑盐运用在一道海得拉巴的 

料理中 , 这道菜叫 Mirch Baingan Ka Salan, 

用浓郁的花生杏仁肉汁煨茄子 , 并加 

入各种整粒与粉状的干燥香料赋予菜式芬 

芳气息。要做酱汁 , 首先用点油来炒小茴 

香子、芥末籽、葫芦巴 ,Singh 告诉我们 :「听 

到种子爆开的声音 , 就表示可以加入蔬菜 

了。」 

接下来再加入混和十五种香料的印度 

综合香料粉 Garam Masala, 另加一种奇 

特、带酸味的深色粉末 ,Singh 说这叫「酸 

甜粉」。各种不同的香气共冶一炉 , 却能 

彼此融合 , 相得益彰。硫磺味的盐富含烟 

熏香气 , 酸甜粉强化了葫芦巴和芥末籽温 

和的花香 , 并让小茴香的烟熏味更加圆满。 

最后 ,Singh 还加了一点椰奶 , 用甜味打 

造圆融顺口的整体风味 , 奏出和谐的最终 

章。 

「我们在烹调时使用非常多不同的香 

料 , 你要先了解每种香料独特的香气 , 才 

能找到搭配方法 , 做出一道好菜。不同地 

区偏好不同香料 , 但有种味道每家印度厨 

房都找得到 - 那就是印度的纯正风味。」 

“ You need to 

understand the 

individual aromas 

of the spices 

and then know 

how to combine 

them to create 

wonderful dishes. 

你要先了解每种香 

料独特的香气 , 才能 

找到搭配方法 , 做出 

一道好菜。 ” 

Saffron Pulao: clay pot filled with basmati rice, sweet carrots and cauliflower, 

topped with strands of saffron 

藏红花饭 (Saffron Pulao): 印度香米搭配红萝卜、外软内韧的花椰菜 , 上头点缀藏红花丝 , 以陶锅盛装 

Tandoori Nisha: prawns marinated in yoghurt, lemon juice and spices 

and then grilled in the belly of a clay tandoor oven 

香料窑烤虎虾 (Tandoori Nisha): 虎虾以酸奶、柠檬汁及香料腌制 , 并于泥制窑炉内烧烤 

92 



香料王国 

S pice orld 

In Old Delhi, India, TK Director of Photography David Hartung 

and Senior Writer Lucy Morgan take a walk along 

Khari Baoli Street to visit the world’s largest spice market.

spice world

spice world 

98 



spice world 


spice world 

A BLUE HAZE HANGS ABOVE THE TREES on a crisp Delhi 

morning. People hug arms to bodies against the slight 

winter chill. Along the pavement, heaps of flower heads 

are piled high on plastic sheets, burnt orange and deep red 

marigolds alternating with the flat grey concrete that peeps 

through between each flower vendor’s space. A faint scent 

of roses softens the air. 

Customers push their way between the vendors, eyeing 

the flowers keenly. The flower sellers have only a few hours 

before the shuttered shops behind them will open their 

doors and the street will fill with traders, 

all making their way to the suffocating 

lanes of Gadodia, the world’s largest 

wholesale spice market. 

Three monkeys gambol along a 

plait of cables, traversing Khari Baoli, a 

busy street in Old Delhi’s Chandni Chowk 

district. Beneath them the road is packed 

with people moving sack loads of spices: 

rickshaws are piled high, men haul 

trolleys, porters known as coolie wallahs 

lug hessian sacks on their shoulders or 

balance stacks of boxes on their heads. 

An ox with horns painted the colors of the Indian flag 

lumbers past. A horse wearing blinkers pulls a cart loaded 

with rice. 

The street fills with the sounds of horns, shouts and 

cries as each worker forces his way through the cars, draft 

animals and bicycles, all fighting to get to the same place. 

A man gives directions in Hindi: “The spice market is after 

the second tree on the left.” A dark-walled lane leads into 

a central courtyard encircled by four floors of shops. Each 

property is filled from floor to ceiling with sacks. Coolie 

wallahs ferry the sacks inside and pile them up, carrying bill 

hooks to steady the loads and cutlasses to slice them open. 

Some sacks have 

split already, 

revealing dried 

chilies, their bright 

red and orange 

skins gleaming 

in the dull light 

of the alley. 

德里一大清早 , 天气尚凉 , 树上方笼罩一片 

蓝色薄雾 , 只见路上行人纷纷以手环绕胸前 , 

抵御那冬日寒意。人行道上 , 成堆花束在塑 

胶布上叠得老高 , 也可看到褐橘及深红金盏 

花交替 , 顺着灰色的斑驳土墙直趋隔壁摊位 

一窥究竟。阵阵玫瑰芳香令人晕眩 , 稍加缓 

解了空气中的紧绷气氛。 

市集四处摩肩擦踵 , 客人在摊贩间穿梭 , 

眼中只有想要寻找的花。花贩时间不多 , 无 

不大声贩售 , 因再过数小时 , 后方商店就要 

开张 , 届时街道将满是贸 

易商 , 全世界最大的香料 

批发市场「Gadodia」周 

边大街小巷都将挤得水泄 

不通。 

三只猴子在绳索编成 

的缆线上跳跃 , 在旧德里 

Chandni Chowk 城区繁忙 

的大街 Khari Baoli 上方玩 

得不亦乐乎。底下的人们 

正忙着将一袋袋香料搬进 

搬出 : 人力车上早已堆满 

货物、男人拉着拖车前行、 

苦力则扛起脚夫的工作 , 将大捆麻袋放在肩 

上、或把箱子巧妙层层堆在头顶 , 使命必达。 

同时一只牛角画上印度国旗颜色的大公牛缓 

步经过 , 另一头则见一匹戴着眼罩的马儿使 

劲拖着堆满白米袋的轮车。 

街道上喇叭声、搬运工穿梭车阵的吆喝 

声此起彼落 , 他们的目的地和一旁的驼兽与 

搬运脚踏车都一样是香料市场。有个好心人 

用印度话帮忙报路 :「过左边第二棵树就可 

以到市场了。」沿着满是暗黑砖墙的小巷往 

前不久 , 便来到了空旷的广场 , 四周俱是四 

层楼建筑 , 在各店家内都可发现香料袋直从 

➥ 


spice world 

104 


spice world 

Some sacks have split already, revealing dried chilies, their 地板堆到天花板。苦力把麻袋搬进店里 , 先 

bright red and orange skins gleaming in the dull light of 用小镰刀袈着袋子保持重心 , 随即就以小刀 

the alley. A porter wanders past, covered in yellow dust. 把麻袋划开。有些麻袋原就已裂开 , 露出其 

As he walks by, the sack he is carrying puffs small clouds 内的干燥香料 , 亮红及橘黄色泽在巷弄中幽 

of turmeric into the heavy air. Its sour stench catches in 暗光线下熠熠发光。此时有个身上满是黄色 

the throats of the porters and traders, and a rhythmic 粉尘的脚夫路过 , 肩上麻袋不时喷出姜黄粉 

cacophony of coughing breaks out. A wounded sack sits 末 , 酸呛味让一旁的搬运工及商人不只闻得 

forlornly outside a shop, slowly shedding chilies onto the 难受 , 还呛到喉咙 , 引发一阵阵咳嗽 , 声音 

dusty earth. 

如有韵律般久久不消。商店门外还有包破烂 

Most of the customers in Gadodia are wholesale spice 的麻袋 , 躺在路边无人答理 , 只见香料在尘 

traders, buying in bulk and distributing 

土飞扬中缓缓流泄而出。 

to shops all over India. Some are 

来「 Gadodia」的客人中 , 

exporters, collecting spices that will 

travel across the world. Others are 

here for a joyful reason: to buy large 

quantities of ingredients for wedding 

banquets. “It is wedding season here 

in India between November and 

March,” says the brother of a brideto-be. 

“We invite a thousand people to 

a celebration lasting several days, so 

we have to cook a lot of food for our 

guests. We are buying twenty kilograms 

有些麻袋原就已 

裂开 , 露出其内 

的干燥香料 , 亮 

红及橘黄色泽在 

巷弄中幽暗光线 

下熠熠发光。 

以香料批发贸易商为众多 , 

大量采购后再分卖到全印 

度的商店 , 而市场也能看 

到出口商的身影 , 欲物色 

香料卖到世界各地。有的 

则是为了令人欢欣的理由 

到此一访 : 为婚宴购入大 

量的食材。现场有位准新 

娘的哥哥就说 :「十一月到 

三月间正是印度的结婚旺 

季 , 上千名宾客将受邀参 

of hot chili powder and five kilograms of cumin. It’s a lot 加连续多天的庆祝仪式 , 自然要准备的食物 

cheaper here than anywhere else.” 

也相当可观。我们今天要买整整二十公斤的 

The haze clears as a piercing winter sun burns through 辣椒粉和五公斤的莳萝 , 到这边买最划算了。」 

scant cloud. Coats are shed. The coolie wallahs’ foreheads 穿透稀薄云层 , 天际洒下刺眼冬阳 , 薄 

are studded with sweat. From nearby Fatehpuri Masjid, 雾逐渐消散。人们脱掉外套 , 苦力的额头也 

a mullah sings the call to prayer. One of the shops in the 开始渗满汗珠。邻近的 Fatehpuri Masjid 清 

market fills with hungry workers and shopkeepers, queuing 真寺中 , 传来教长毛拉唱催祷颂的声音。市 

to buy hot naan bread, fresh from the tandoor. Coolie 场一间店里立刻塞满饥肠辘辘的工人及店老 

wallahs squat against the walls, or recline on top of carts 板 , 排队要买坦都烤炉刚出炉的烤饼。苦力 

to eat, listening to the pulsing beat of motorbike horns and 们或蹲在墙边 , 或倚着拖车进食 , 传进耳里 

to the shouts of their co-workers as they file past carrying 的不是摩托车震耳欲聋的喇叭声 , 就是其他 

their loads. 

工人排队准备搬货大声嚷嚷的叫声。 

➥ 


SPICE WORLD 

108 



spice world 

On Khari Baoli Road a stall sells bright green leaves 

the shape of upturned hearts. The stallholder paints a leaf 

with a pink paste, scatters it with flakes of tobacco and 

chips of cardamom and areca nut, and then folds the leaf 

into a triangle. This is paan, a treat that is chewed. The 

leaf is from the betel vine, renowned for its psychoactive 

properties. The areca nut and tobacco promote alertness. 

“Paan is very popular with the coolie wallahs,” says the 

stallholder. “They chew it and spit out 

streams of red liquid. The ingredients 

have a stimulant effect on the mind. 

But if you have too much paan, it can 

make you go crazy. The coolie wallahs 

need it though, as they work hard for 

many hours. Paan helps them to keep 

working.” 

The coolie wallahs continue their 

work inside the market. Out on the 

street, smart shop fronts display spices 

which have travelled to Delhi from 

Gujarat, South Kerala, Rajasthan and 

from every corner of India. Some have 

had an even longer journey. “Our green cardamom comes 

from Iran,” explains a shopkeeper. 

In the back of one shop an assistant wearing a plastic 

glove shapes bowls of ground spices into neat dunes. 

The jewel colors of turmeric, chili, cardamom and mace 

shine amongst the multiple browns of cumin, nutmeg and 

cinnamon. The shop front is festooned with a garland of 

marigold flowers, interlaced with coiled, shiny green mango 

leaves. “The flowers?” says the shopkeeper. “We hang 

them outside to attract luck. It’s good for our business.” 

The jewel colors 

of turmeric, 

chili, cardamom 

and mace shine 

amongst the 

multiple browns 

of cumin, nutmeg 

and cinnamon. 

KhariBaoli 大街上有个摊贩专卖亮绿 

色叶子包成的小点 , 形状像是凸起的爱心。 

店家手法俐落 , 拿起一片叶子涂上粉红色 

的膏状物、洒上烟草片、小豆蔻和槟榔籽 , 

包成三角形就大功告成。这种用来嚼的点 

心当地人称之为「paan」。拿来包的槟榔 

叶可以提神 , 槟榔籽及烟草则有醒脑的效 

果。店家表示 :「paan 在苦力阶级里很流行 , 

嚼一嚼会吐出红色的槟榔 

汁 , 里面包的都是刺激精 

神效果的成份 , 吃太多的 

话可能会疯掉 , 不过苦力 

每天都要辛苦工作好几个 

小时 , 嚼着 paan 可让他 

们活力持久。」 

市场里 , 满身大汗的 

苦力仍埋头苦干。大街 

另一头整洁的店头则摆 

着来自 Gujarat、South 

Kerala 及 Rajasthan 等 

印度各地而来的香料。 

有些长途跋涉的程度超 

乎想像 , 某家老板介绍 :「我们家绿豆蔻可 

是从伊朗来的。」 

旁边店里可以看到助理戴着塑胶手套 , 

在店后方整理地上纷乱的成堆香料 , 分门别 

类后有咖啡色系的莳萝、肉豆蔻及肉桂小 

山 , 正好衬出姜黄、番椒、小豆蔻及豆蔻的 

珠宝色泽。店门前装饰着金盏花圈 , 并交叉 

缀着盘卷、散发亮绿色调的芒果叶。当问及 

门口花饰 , 店老板解释 :「挂花可以带来好运 , 

助我们生意兴隆。」 

110 

| TK | flavor dna

kitchen conversations 

越菜「新」鲜尝 

chôm chôm nom nom 

Vietnamese chef Peter Cuong Franklin packs layered 

flavors into every morsel of his delicious Bia Hoi dishes. 

“FISH SAUCE from South Vietnam is 

considered the best in the world,” says Chôm 

Chôm Executive Chef Peter Cuong Franklin. 

He’s using some to prepare a sweet-sharp 

dipping sauce for a chicken skewer. “I use 

a brand which has only three ingredients – 

anchovies, salt and water. The anchovies are 

layered with salt in large barrels and left to 

ferment for about seven months, and then 

the mixture is pressed to release a clear, 

pungent liquid.” The first pressing has a pure 

anchovy flavor, perfect for dipping sauces. 

Further pressings are saltier and the flavor 

of the fish becomes less distinct. 

The dipping sauce Chef Franklin is 

making has five key ingredients: fish sauce, 

sugar, garlic, chilies and lime juice. This time 

he also adds shredded kaffir lime leaves. “I 

like to inject flavor into my food from all 

directions,” he says. Kaffir lime leaves are 

used twice in his skewered chicken. They’re 

placed inside the chicken so they influence it 

from within and also shredded and mixed in 

the dipping sauce to add their unique scent 

to the crisp outside of the meat. Additional 

flavor is added alongside the dish’s delivery 

system: the chicken skewer is pierced by a 

spear of lemongrass, which releases its light 

Chôm Chôm ( 意为红毛丹 ) 越式餐厅行政 

主厨 Peter Cuong Franklin 一边用鱼露调制 

鸡肉串烧的酸甜沾酱 , 一边说 :「越南南部 

的鱼露是世界最顶级的 , 我用的牌子只有 

三种材料 - 鱼、盐、水。鱼与盐一层层叠 

在大桶里腌制 , 静置发酵七个月 , 压榨桶 

内的混合物 , 就得到澄清、风味鲜甜的汁 

液。」初榨鱼露的鱼味最纯正 , 做沾酱非 

常合适 , 之后再榨的味道就比较咸 , 鱼味 

也较淡。 

Franklin 主厨制作的沾酱有五种主要 

原料 , 包括鱼露、糖、蒜、辣椒及柠檬汁 , 

这次他还加入切碎的泰国柠檬叶。他说 :「我 

喜欢调制各种不同风味的料理。」这道鸡肉 

串烧以两种手法运用泰国柠檬叶 , 一种是 

放在鸡肉里 , 让风味由内而外散发 , 另一 

种是切细丝伴入酱中 , 沾在鸡肉香脆的外 

皮上 , 散发柠檬叶独特的清香。甚至使用 

的器材也有巧思 , 串住鸡肉用的是香茅叶 , 

烧烤时会释放些许香茅油 , 让风味更上一 

层楼。最后再洒上青辣椒 , 便大功告成。 

这道菜散发越南料理独特风味 , 带着花香 , 

清新爽口。 

Franklin 说 :「越南是农业社会 , 种植 

的作物无所不包 , 经常使用新鲜蔬菜与香 

草就是越南菜的一大特色。」相较之下 , 印 

度料理则使用大量干燥的香草与香料 , 经 

过捣碎、烘烤 , 再用油煎 , 释放带烟熏味 

“ I like to inject flavor 

into my food from 

all directions. 

我喜欢调制各种不同 

风味的料理。” 

Executive Chef Peter Cuong Franklin 

112 




 

 

 

oils during cooking. For a final kick, sliced 

green chili is scattered over the surface of the 

meat. The scent is distinctively Vietnamese 

– floral, light and fresh. 

“Vietnam is an agricultural society 

where you can grow everything,” says 

Franklin. “One of the key flavor points of 

Vietnamese cooking is the frequent use of 

fresh vegetables and herbs.” He contrasts it 

with the cuisine of India, which uses a lot of 

dry herbs and spices, pounded, toasted, and 

then cooked in oil to release their smoky rich 

flavors. When questioned about the similarity 

between Thai and Vietnamese cooking styles, 

Franklin is quick to counter: “Thai cooking is 

more in your face with spices. We use similar 

ingredients but Thais punch people in the 

face with flavor. We try to create more of a 

balance. We do use chilies but not so they 

kill the other flavors. We don’t use as many 

ingredients, we use fewer spices, and we 

cook in water so our cuisine is lighter. You 

can clearly taste the individual components 

in Vietnamese cooking.” 

Chôm Chôm is an intimate restaurant 

at the foot of trendy Peel Street. It has a 

small outside space where diners can relax 

and people-watch. The food is unfussy and 

based on Bia Hoi, the concept of snacks that 

accompany beer. One such snack Franklin 

has prepared is a plate of deep fried chicken 

wings called VFC – a Vietnamese take on 

Kentucky Fried Chicken. He takes care to 

的浓郁香气。泰国料理与越南料理的烹调 

方式是否类似 ? Franklin 一口否定。「泰 

国菜的香料味道比较直接 , 我们用的食材 

类似 , 但泰国菜有股扑鼻而来的浓重香味。 

越南菜讲求均衡和谐 , 虽然用辣椒 , 但不 

会掩盖其他味道。食材不是愈多愈好 , 我 

们用的香料比较少 , 而且用水煮 , 所以口 

感比较清爽。越南菜里每一种材料的味道 

你都吃得到。」 

Chôm Chôm 气氛温馨 , 位于时髦的卑 

利街转角 , 一隅户外空间让客人放松 , 坐 

看行人熙来攘往。 Chôm Chôm 的餐点不 

会过分精致 , 以搭配新鲜啤酒的小吃 ( 越 

南文称为 Bia Hoi) 为主轴 , 例如其中一道 

是越式炸鸡翅 , 这是越南版的肯德基炸鸡 , 

经 Franklin 用各种手法尝起来更丰富有味。 

首先选用鸡翅 , 这是一只鸡味道最鲜美的 

部位 , 然后再下功夫让鸡肉美味升级。「我 

们一层层添加风味 , 首先用鱼露、芫荽籽、 

大蒜腌制 , 不只是浸泡 , 更要连骨头都入味。 

接下来裹粉 , 粉也调了味。我裹的是米粉 , 

比较清爽也更香脆 , 另外在粉中加入红椒 

 

 

 

Chicken and Lemongrass Skewer 

香茅鸡肉串烧 

Grilled Eggplant with Crab Meat 

蟹肉烤茄子魚 

Cha Cha Hanoi 

炸龙利鱼柳 

114 




“ Chinese and French 

are two of the 

greatest cuisines 

in the world. But 

we just took the 

best things from 

them. We still retain 

very Vietnamese 

characteristics in 

our cooking. 

中菜和法国菜 

是世界两大料理 , 

但我们只撷取两种 

料理的精华 , 我们 

的烹调方式仍然极 

富越南特色。 ” 

fill the chicken with flavor whichever way 

he can. He uses wings, which are the most 

flavorful part of the bird and then he sets 

to work, making them even tastier. “We 

layer flavor. First we brine in fish sauce 

coriander seeds and garlic. This goes beyond 

marinating – it puts the flavor right into the 

bones. Then, when we bread the chicken, I 

get some flavor in there too. I use rice flour 

as it is lighter and makes for a crispier crumb 

but I season the flour with paprika and 

spices. After frying the wings we shake them 

in Vietnamese vinaigrette made with fresh 

lime and garlic. The wings are then served 

with a wedge of lime so you can squeeze that 

to add even more freshness.” 

Franklin notes the two main external 

influences on Vietnamese cuisine: China, 

which shares a border with the country 

to the north; and France, which ruled the 

colony for six decades. “Those are the two 

of the greatest cuisines in the world. But we 

just took the best things from them. We still 

retain very Vietnamese characteristics in our 

cooking.” 

To demonstrate, he brings out a beautiful 

sole dish the color of sunshine, lying on a 

bed of cool white rice noodles and bearing 

strands of feathery green dill. The faint 

aniseed scent of the dill and the delicate 

floral notes of turmeric rise enticingly from 

the plate. “Turmeric root has a fresh taste, 

a subtle floral taste and a color more in the 

direction of saffron. We pound the root and 

use it to infuse oil. To make the fish dish 

we first fry it in brown butter, a technique 

learned from the French, but we mix the 

brown butter with turmeric oil. There 

is dill in this dish which is a very French 

ingredient. No one else in the Southeast Asia 

region cooks with dill. Then we add lime 

juice and onion. The use of citrus in this dish 

is classic Vietnamese, giving that fresh flavor. 

It is a perfect harmony of the two cultures.” 

The idea that there is an “authentic” way 

to cook Vietnamese dishes irritates Franklin, 

as he feels it misses the point of regional 

variations and the use of seasonal ingredients. 

But he also hates the word “fusion” 

and doesn’t want to be labeled as “modern” 

either as it carries with it the expectation of 

something molecular – smoke and bangs and 

foams. If you have to pigeonhole him, then 

you may describe his cooking style as “new 

Vietnamese cuisine.” “New shows we are 

looking at the cuisine and approaching it a 

slightly different way,” he says. “But you need 

to understand the core components of the 

dishes. You need to understand how people 

eat and why they eat that way. There are some 

things you can’t mess with. Some things are 

OK to change – some things aren’t.” 

粉及香料。鸡翅炸完 , 再洒上越式香醋 , 

醋里加了新鲜莱姆和大蒜。最后附上莱姆 

片 , 吃的时候挤点汁 , 口味更清爽不腻。」 

Franklin 指出越菜受到两大外来文化影 

响 , 一个是和越南北部接壤的中国 , 一个 

是殖民越南六十年的法国。「这两国创造 

了世界两大料理 , 但我们只撷取两种料理 

的精华 , 我们的烹调方式仍然极富越南特 

色。」 

为了说明 , 他端出一道龙利鱼柳 , 鱼 

身的颜色如阳光般迷人 , 底下铺了冰凉的 

米粉 , 饰以几缕青翠欲滴的莳萝。盘中散 

发出莳萝淡淡的八角味 , 以及姜黄优雅的 

花香味 , 十分诱人。「姜黄根味道清新 , 

并带有微妙的花香 , 色彩类似藏红花。我 

们磨碎姜黄根 , 浸入油里。这道鱼首先在 

焦化牛油里煎过 , 焦化牛油是法式料理的 

材料 , 但我们还加了姜黄油。搭配的莳萝 

也十分富有法国风味 , 其他东南亚国家的 

料理都看不到。然后加上莱姆汁和洋葱 , 

在菜肴中加入柑橘类也是经典的越菜特色 , 

可以让风味更清新。这道菜完美的融合了 

两种文化。」有人提出越菜的「正宗」烹调 

方式 ,Franklin 相当不以为然 , 他觉得这忽 

略了地方特色与使用当令食材的要点。另 

一方面 , 他也不喜欢「融合」这个词 , 也 

不希望让人贴上「现代」的标签 , 因为这 

仿佛预设了料理中会出现烟雾、爆炸、泡 

沫等分子料理的元素。如果你一定要将他 

的烹饪手法分类 , 或许可以称之为「新越 

南料理。」 

Franklin 说 :「新代表我们用不同的方 

式 , 来思考、处理越南菜。但你必须了解 

越菜的核心 , 除了知道怎么吃 , 也要知道 

背后的道理。世事存在皆有规律 , 有的事 

可以改变 , 有些则要维持原则。」 

Vietnamese Fried Chicken 

越式炸鸡 

116 



tasting notes 

川菜香辣达人 

ichuan 

S pice 

Maestro 

He Jiang Executive Chef Zhao Li 

knows how to bring the heat with 

Sichuan’s spices, but says there 

is a lot more to the cuisine 

than the famous fire. 

118 


La Zi Chicken 

歌樂山辣子雞

tasting notes 

Braised Sliced Fish with Homemade Sichuan Sauce 

老壇子魚片 

Executive Chef Zhao Li 

行政主厨赵力 

“SICHUAN CUISINE is the only one in the 

world that uses red peppercorns,” says He 

Jiang Executive Chef Zhao Li. A native of 

the province, he has been cooking professionally 

in the distinctive Sichuan style for 

nearly two decades and is a master of the 

spices and other ingredients that make up 

the cuisine’s flavor DNA. 

Indigenous to China’s landlocked 

western region and also known as Sichuan 

pepper, flower pepper or fagara, the red 

peppercorn is not closely related to black and 

white peppercorns, nor is it a pepper. It adds 

a unique layer of experience to a number 

of Sichuan dishes by causing a tonguetingling 

sensation – má in Mandarin – and 

an accompanying slight numbing of the lips. 

In its younger, unripe green form, it is also 

used to add sourness to certain selections. 

As proud as he is of Sichuan’s star spice, 

it’s also clear that Chef Li would like to 

change the popular impression that all 

Sichuan dishes abound in fiery chili peppers 

Chef Li’s experience is invaluable when it 

comes to procuring top quality ingredients 

like the pickled vegetables he sources from 

Sichuan’s fertile Mount Emei region. 

赵师傅多年经验练就了好眼力 , 像是四川肥 

沃峨嵋山区所产的泡菜等顶级食材品质的优 

劣与否 , 在他的眼皮子底下均无所遁形。 

and lip-numbing red peppercorn. He says 

the cuisine features about a thousand 

combinations of ingredients. “Each dish we 

serve has its own unique flavor.” 

In an effort to share a wide repertoire 

of Sichuan dishes with guests, He Jiang 

has updated its menu three times since 

opening in 2011. According to Chef Li, 

about sixty percent of the cuisine is not 

spicy at all. He points to recurring items 

川菜餐厅「合江小镇」行政主厨赵力运用 

各式香料裕如 , 带出的四川辣劲让人大呼 

过瘾。不过师傅强调 , 川菜的诀窍可不只 

是火候。 

知名川菜餐厅「合江小镇」行政主厨 

赵力自豪说道 :「四川料理是全世界唯一用 

到花椒的菜系。」身为道地的四川人 , 赵师 

傅已钻研川菜近二十个年头 , 对于各式香 

料及川菜专属特殊食材的掌握已达炉火纯 

青的境界。 


tasting notes 

花椒 , 或称川椒 , 生长于中国大西部 

内陆地区 , 与黑胡椒或白胡椒其实并无特 

殊关联 , 甚至不属胡椒种类。许多四川菜 

加入花椒调味 , 会带来舌头酥麻的特殊口 

感 ( 就是中文讲的「麻」), 甚至连嘴唇也 

会产生轻微麻痹感。在花椒尚未成熟 , 还 

呈绿色时也常入菜 , 为特定几道料理增添 

酸度。 

赵师傅虽以四川的招牌花椒为荣 , 但 

也想注入创新元素 , 打破川菜就等于喷火 

辣味及花椒酥麻口感的既定印象。他说川 

菜有上千种食材组合 , 相当丰富 ,「上桌的 

每道菜都有自己独一无二的风味。」 

为了让更多人品尝到四川料理博大精 

深的美味 , 合江小镇自 2011 年开张至今 

已经更新过三次菜单。主厨透露 , 其中有 

六成都不是麻辣料理。菜单上重复出现的 

人气菜色 , 像是调味恰好的烤鸭及樟木熏 

烤乳鸽口味都相当温和。赵师傅的招牌辣 

子鸡以大把大把的干红椒及四川花椒焖煮 , 

看似热辣十足 , 吃来却味道适中 , 不会让 

人辣到嘴巴发痛。主厨特地精选小块腿肉 

及肩肉浸至加入少许白酒的卤汁中入味 , 

让质地变得温湿软嫩 , 鸡肉经油炸后加入 

干椒、四川花椒、腰果、辣椒粉及其他调 

味料拌匀即可。赵师傅的改良版本比起一 

般四川馆子的辣子鸡要清爽 , 吃来味道较 

为温和 , 也更加精致。 

合江小镇的菜色大部分以传统川菜作 

法为本 , 再由主厨以精准眼光微调后而成。 

四川酥炸肋排仿古法制作 , 但佐以小颗马 

铃薯球、柿子椒及洋葱丁 , 增添一丝西式 

风情。搭配炖鱼的自家制四川酱汁一般以 

大条红辣椒及小条青辣椒为主原料 , 再放 

入四川泡菜中的高丽菜切片添加咸醋风味 

及口感 , 用味道繁复的大红汤汁衬托细嫩 

的鱼肉。相较川蜀地方常见当地捕捉的新 

鲜淡水鲶鱼 , 赵师傅选用的是比目鱼。 

赵师傅多年经验练就了好眼力 , 像是 

四川肥沃峨嵋山区所产的泡菜等顶级食材 

品质的优劣与否 , 在他的眼皮子底下均无 

所遁形。四川泡菜平常浸于满是辣味油醋 

的大型老陶瓮中 , 吃饭时才视所需切片装 

盘。泡菜中的红萝卜片、花椰菜根跟高丽 

菜的色彩跃然桌上 , 增色不少。 

主厨丰富的香料知识让他在挑选花椒 

入菜时无往不利 , 像是肥厚的青绿半熟花 

椒该怎么选 , 或如何避开光泽度最高的红 

色花椒才不会太苦等等。他常用的三种辣 

椒也是川菜基本调味的重要食材 , 包括地 

道的四川子弹椒 , 体型短胖 , 可直接干吃 

或半熟腌渍使用 ; 第二种是偏薄、长形的 

小米辣 ; 最后是体型较大、辣度较低的二 

金条。其他主厨的得力帮手还包括自家制 

的大红辣椒酱及朱红色的辣豆瓣酱 , 后者 

以蚕豆、辣椒、盐及多种调味秘方制成 , 

是川菜的灵魂所在。 

赵师傅构思菜单时也非常重视季节更 

迭带来的影响 , 冬天主打暖胃美食 , 而夏 

季则加强料理中的酸味 , 唤醒饕客褥热天 

气下尽失的胃口。 

主厨自己最爱的两道菜在合江小镇都 

吃得到 , 有辣味豆腐及绞肉 , 加入猪肉 

片及辣椒拌炒而成的经典四川麻婆豆腐。 

另一道炸猪肉赵师傅选用了有别于自己 

母亲的做法 , 加进豆瓣酱增添风味。身为 

一个厨师 , 敢于翻新老妈子的烹饪做法 , 

足以代表对自己的厨艺有十成的把握 , 信 

心满满。 

Clockwise from top: red chilli paste; white peppercorn; broad bean paste; unripe flower peppercorn; center – dried flower peppercorn 

顺时钟从上而下 : 辣椒酱、白胡椒、豆瓣酱、半熟花椒 ; 中间 : 干花椒 

Deep-fried Spare Ribs, 

Sichuan Style 

川香麻辣烧骨 

on the menu like the mildly seasoned roast 

duck and the camphor-smoked pigeon. And 

his Là Z J (Chicken with Chilies), though 

smothered in heaps of dry red chilies and 

Sichuan peppercorns that look ready to 

burst into flame, does not overwhelm. Chef 

Li keeps small chunks of leg and shoulder 

meat tender and moist with a marinade 

that includes a splash of baijiu liquor. 

The chicken is deep-fried and then mixed 

with chilies, Sichuan peppercorns, cashew 

nuts, ground chili and other seasonings. 

His version is a refined, slightly milder, 

less oily version of the classic dish served 

everywhere in Sichuan. 

Most of He Jiang’s dishes are based on 

traditional Sichuan recipes, with Chef Li 

making expert alterations here and there. 

Deep-fried Sichuan style spare ribs are 

made traditionally, but are accompanied 

by Western touches like small potato 

croquettes and diced bell pepper and 

onion. A homemade Sichuan sauce served 

with braised fish is a complex crimson broth 

122 


laced with large red and small green chilies, 

and with sliced pickled cabbage that adds 

salt, vinegar and crunch to contrast with 

the tender fish. In Sichuan, local freshwater 

catfish is often used. Chef Li makes the dish 

with Dover sole. 

Chef Li’s experience is invaluable when 

it comes to procuring top quality ingredients 

like the pickled vegetables he sources from 

Sichuan’s fertile Mount Emei region. The 

delicacies are steeped in spiced vinaigrette 

in large traditional earthenware jars until 

mealtime when they are portioned into 

glass dishes. The mixture of sliced carrots, 

broccoli stems and white cabbage provides 

a splash of color on the table. 

Spice expertise also helps when it comes 

to selecting Sichuan peppercorns. Chef Li 

knows just which plump young green ones 

are right for the job, and when working 

with ripe red fagara, he avoids the brightest 

specimens since they can be bitter. He cooks 

with three varieties of chilies, another basic 

flavor that characterizes Sichuan cuisine. 

First is the classic Sichuanese short broad 

z dàn ji o variety, served fresh, dry or pickled 

and green. Second, the thinner and slightly 

longer xi o m là. And finally, the larger, less 

fiery èr j ng tiáo pepper. 

Other essentials for Li include his housemade 

crimson chili paste and the deep 

vermillion broad bean paste which he says 

captures the soul of Sichuan cuisine. It’s 

made with beans, chili peppers, salt and a 

variety of other secret seasonings. 

He always keeps the seasons in mind 

as he plans menus, featuring warming 

dishes in the winter and emphasizing sour 

ingredients in his summer dishes to help 

bolster appetites depleted by the heat. 

Among Chef Li’s favorite dishes, both 

served at He Jiang, are the Sichuan classic 

mápó tòfu, a dish of spicy bean curd mixed 

with minced pork; and sliced pork fried with 

chili peppers. His mother fried the pork 

without the bean paste, but he includes it. 

A chef willing and able to go beyond mom’s 

cooking – that’s a confident chef.


佳节飨宴 

a festive 

feast 

Spice up your Christmas at 

Banyan Tree Macau’s Saffron 

Phad Kraprao Kae: Grilled Lamb, Garlic, Chili, Hot Basil 

泰式烤羊扒 

CHRISTMAS AT SAFFRON is set to be a spicy 

affair. “Thai food is famous around the 

world for its use of fresh and dried spices 

and herbs. We’re using lots of turmeric, chili, 

hot basil and curry paste,” says Chef de Cuisine 

Gina Pungiaroenkijkul. 

The Christmas menus, available on the 

24th and 25th of December, feature traditional 

Thai dishes with festive twists and 

Chef Gina’s own unique touch. She says she 

likes to get creative and to see what she can 

do with Thai traditions. “Thai food begins 

with basic pastes and basic sauces, and I 

use them as a base. Then I like to experiment 

and try different things.” 

The four-course lunch set menu features 

Thai favorites Tom Yum Goong soup 

and whole steamed grouper with a chili and 

lime dressing. “This is a very traditional dish 

to eat for Thai celebrations,” says Chef Gina. 

The dinner menu is a festive buffet with 

an extensive selection of seafood on ice, 

appetizers, soups and salads, and a choice 

of mains cooked to order. Top picks include 

lobster with saffron curry, grilled lamb marinated 

in garlic chili and hot basil, fried 

snapper with mango sauce, and turkey with 

green curry. 

“Christmas is a celebration,” says Chef Gina. 

“It’s important to share special dishes.” 

「尚坊 (Saffron)」的圣诞大餐香辣十足 , 让 

人大呼过瘾。来自泰国的主厨 Gina Pungiaroenkijkul 

自信满满表示 :「泰式料理以运 

用各式新鲜干燥的香料及草本植物闻名于 

世。这次我们大量使用了姜黄、番椒、打 

抛酱和咖喱酱。」 

圣诞套餐将于 12 月 24 日及 25 日限时 

推出 , 除了传统泰式美味 , 另有佳节限定 

佳肴及主厨 Gina 匠心独具的创意料理。她 

脑袋充满新的点子 , 希望能与传统泰国菜 

激荡出美味的火花 :「酱膏及酱汁是泰国菜 

的基础 , 我也以此为出发点 , 大胆试验不 

同的作法。」 

[CAPTION] 

1. Pla Tord Yum Mamuang 泰式烤鱼 

Fried Fish, Mango, Shallot, Spring Onion 

2. Gaeng Saffron Goong Mungkorn 招 

牌红咖喱龙虾 

Lobster, Red Curry, Kaffir Lime 

3. Phad Kraprao Kae 泰式烤羊扒 

Grilled Lamb, Garlic, Chili, Hot Basil 

Pla Tord Yum Mamuang: Fried Fish, Mango, Shallot, Spring Onion 

泰式烤鱼 

午间套餐四道料理中 , 有最受欢迎的 

人气料理泰式酸辣汤及缀以番椒和莱姆酱 

汁的清蒸石斑。 Gina 说 :「泰国人在欢庆 

佳节时都会选择这道传统料理。」 

晚间套餐则是圣诞节限定的自助美 

食吧 , 各式铺在冰块上的海鲜、开胃菜、 

汤品及沙拉应有尽有 , 还有供单点的 

多种主餐 , 包括招牌红咖喱龙虾、蒜 

香辣椒烹调的泰式烤羊扒、泰式烤鱼 

佐芒果酱汁及绿咖喱火鸡等令人食欲 

大开的美食。 

Gina 开心的说 :「圣诞节是值得欢庆 

的时刻 , 当然要一起分享特别的美味。」 



“ 

Christmas is a celebration. 

It’s important to share special dishes. 

圣诞节是值得欢庆的时刻 , 

当然要一起分享特别的美味。 

” 

126 


Chef de Cuisine Gina Pungiaroenkijkul 

Gaeng Saffron Goong Mungkorn: Lobster, Red Curry, Kaffir Lime 

招牌红咖喱龙虾

feature 

顶级牛排快意滋味 

primal pleasure 

At the Grand Lisboa Hotel Macau, The Kitchen 

is the place to go for a prime time steak fix. 

Grade 5 Tomahawk Steak from Australia 

澳洲五级 Tomahawk 牛扒 

FOR THE DEDICATED CARNIVORE, there’s 

nothing quite like the primal pleasure provoked 

by the sight of a big fat juicy steak. At 

The Kitchen, on the third floor of the Grand 

Lisboa Hotel Macau, diners enjoy their meat 

deluxe style: only the best of the best steaks 

are on offer, from USDA prime to Australian 

wagyu to the highest grade cuts of Japanese 

Kagoshima beef. 

Great cuts of meat are just the beginning. 

At The Kitchen, the man behind the meat 

is Chef Wong Chi Leong. After twenty-one 

years in the business, he knows everything 

there is to know about cooking the perfect 

steak. “Temperature control is the most 

important thing to worry about when you 

cook a steak,” he says. “The oven should be 

red hot and the steak should be cold when 

it hits the grill.” 

Chef Wong mans two ovens in the 

restaurant’s open kitchen – a raging fire 

keeps one at the highest temperature while a 

smaller fire burns in the other. The steaks are 

quickly seared in the hot oven to secure the 

对无肉不欢的人来说 , 看到肥美多汁的大 

块牛扒 , 足以挑起他们难掩的兴奋热情。 

位于澳门新葡京酒店三楼的「大厨」餐厅 , 

精选出 USDA 特级澳洲和牛与日本鹿儿岛 

和牛等顶级肉品 , 吸引饕客来场奢华的牛 

扒飨宴。 

选用上好牛肉只是个开始 , 已从事餐饮 

业 21 年的「大厨」主厨黄志亮更清楚如何 

才能烤制出完美牛扒。他说 :「烤牛扒最重 

要是控制温度 , 烤箱要热得发烫 , 而牛扒 

放上烤架时应该是冷的。」 

在「大厨」的开放式厨房里 , 黄主厨一 

人照顾两台烤炉 , 其中一台火力猛烈 , 温 

度极高 , 而另一台则维持小火。先用大火 

烤炉高温封锁牛扒肉汁 , 接着再以小火烤 

炉继续烤到客人指定的熟度。 

「大厨」所选肉品都由酒店西餐行政总 

厨林国新从市场或向供应商亲自挑选。他 

说 :「健康饲养的牛只 , 油花呈现漂亮的大 

理石分布 , 口感非常软嫩。要挑最好的牛肉 , 

我从不假手他人。」 

「大厨」的澳洲 Tomahawk 牛扒分量惊 

人 , 肉香十足 , 滋味丰腴浓郁 , 对喜欢吃 

肉的食客来说是一道梦幻餐点 , 或许两人 

Grade 5 Tomahawk 

Steak from Australia 

澳洲五级 Tomahawk 牛扒 

128 

| TK | flavor dna

feature 

Pizza with Caviar, Smoked Salmon and Cream Cheese 

鱼子酱薄饼配烟三文鱼及忌廉芝士 

Deluxe Assorted Sashimi 

特級刺身拼盤 

juices, and then finished off and cooked to 

customers’ preferences over the smaller fire. 

All the meat served at The Kitchen has 

been personally selected by Grand Lisboa 

Hotel Macau’s Executive Chef of Western 

Cuisine, Chef Andy Lam. “Healthily-fed 

cattle produce lovely marbling of the fat 

which makes the beef much more tender,” 

he says. “I trust no one but myself to pick 

out the best cuts.” 

The Kitchen’s Australian Tomahawk 

is a dramatically large, bone-in steak with 

a big, rich flavor – a hungry meat eater’s 

dream, or maybe a dream for two. Cut from 

between the short rib and the rib eye, the 

38-oz steak is not found in many restaurants. 

“Not many suppliers have the ability or the 

equipment to make this cut of meat so it’s 

pretty unique,” says Chef Andy. “It can be 

difficult to cook because of its size and the 

bone,” adds Chef Wong. 

For those taking a steak break, The 

Kitchen’s deluxe sashimi platter is made 

from the freshest seasonal seafood, 

including blue fin tuna, lobster, yellowtail, 

striped jack, botan shrimp and sea urchin. 

A new range of pizzas is also on offer. 

One decadent option is topped with 

smoked salmon, cream cheese and caviar. 

For Chef Wong, though, it’s all about the 

steaks. To get the most out of them, Wong 

recommends just a smattering of Japanese 

sea salt and ground white pepper to draw out 

the natural flavors of the steaks. “We want 

to respect the original flavors and that’s what 

we want our customers to taste,” he says. 

“Too much seasoning will destroy the flavor 

of the beef.” 

Chef Wong recommends letting a steak 

rest for about three minutes before serving, 

so the juices that have been drawn to the 

surface can relax back into the meat. Then all 

that’s left to do is tuck in. “Seeing customers 

enjoying my food makes me so happy.” 

合吃也绰绰有余。牛肉取自牛小排及肋眼 

之间的部位 , 重达 38 盎司 , 在一般餐厅并 

不多见。林国新解释 :「这道牛扒非常特别 , 

因为有能力或设备供应的餐厅不多 , 而且 

分量多又带骨 , 烤起来不容易。而足量带 

骨的牛扒也增添了菜式的烹煮难度。」 

除了牛扒 ,「大厨」也供应各式豪华刺 

身 , 使用最新鲜的食材 , 包括蓝鳍金枪鱼、 

龙虾、油甘鱼、缟、牡丹虾、北紫海胆 

等节令海鲜。此外更新推出鱼子酱薄饼 , 

饼皮上撒满烟三文鱼 , 忌廉芝士和鱼子酱 , 

滋味非常。 

但对黄主厨来说 , 牛扒还是重头戏。要 

享受牛扒最鲜美的滋味 , 他建议只要撒上 

日本海盐并磨些白胡椒 , 就能引出牛肉的 

天然风味。他说 :「我们希望保留牛肉原味 , 

也希望客人能尝到原汁原味。调味过度会 

破坏牛肉的风味。」 

主厨建议牛扒烤好后放三分钟再上菜 , 

让提升到表面的肉汁可以再吸收回到肉中 , 

接下来就可以大快朵颐了。「看到客人吃 

得开心 , 我真的很高兴。」 


feature 

想来杯苹果酒吗 ?! 

how do you like 

them apples 

A self-described cider nerd, Megan Broberg creates 

her Appleman cider using winemaking techniques. 

She was recently in Hong Kong to launch new 

rosewater and sencha tea-flavored ciders. 


feature 

MEGAN BROBERG is as effervescent as the 

cider she makes. A former winemaker who 

has brought her knowledge and love of sparkling 

wine production to the orchard, she 

bubbles with enthusiasm as she talks about 

her move from grapes to apples and the science 

involved in creating a product that is 

all about pleasure. 

“The first thing you want is the fruit in its 

pure and intact state,” she explains. “That’s 

difficult with apples as they are delicate.” 

To ensure the fruit stays in peak 

condition, Broberg needs to keep oxygen 

out of the equation: “To extract the juice I 

use a beautiful press with carbon dioxide and 

nitrogen pumped over it so it is a completely 

oxygen-free environment. The white juice 

is extracted and then pumped directly into 

a tanker.” 

Apples are temperamental things. Not 

only does a sniff of oxygen turn their juice an 

unappealing brown, but the levels of natural 

yeasts and sugars they contain mean that 

their environment needs to be kept cool, 

lest they start fermenting by themselves. 

The juice in the tanker is kept at around five 

degrees as it is driven to the winery, where it 

is pumped into another tank, cooled and left 

to settle for a couple of days. 

Broberg wanted to capture the pure 

essence of the fruit in her cider, and to make 

a drink that was not just a one-sip wonder. “I 

found there was not enough consideration 

of the palate in cider making – how it feels, 

the texture in the mouth, the sensation of 

the acid and whether or not it has a finish. 

A lot of other ciders have no finish, so you 

have a sip and it is apple-y and then it just 

drops away.” 

Her scientific background and her 

own admission that she is “a nerd, who 

spends a lot of time in the lab” helped her 

to achieve her pure apple ideal. “A colder 

ferment will allow more fruit through, so 

the perfect yeast to use is one similar to 

that used with Chardonnay grapes. The 

high acidity levels of the fruit coupled 

with the need for a colder ferment means 

a sparkling wine yeast is ideal.” This style 

of cider is a long way from beer, where 

the yeast is encouraged by brewers to 

participate actively in the palate of flavors. 

“I needed to find yeast with a completely 

neutral taste,” says Broberg. “I didn’t want 

anything getting in the way of the fresh, 

delicious apples.” 

A byproduct of the fermentation process 

does get in the way of a pure, clean flavor. 

“Hydrogen sulphide – H2S – is a hazard of 

this particular cider-making style,” explains 

Broberg. “And it smells of rotten eggs – it 

really reeks!” Luckily she has some secret 

winemaker’s tricks up her sleeve that remove 

the stink and leave the cider smelling just 

of apples. Or of apples and roses. One of 

two new flavors just released in Hong Kong 

is made with a dash of rosewater for extra 

freshness. This cider is a beautiful pink 

liquid, the color of dawn. It’s off dry quality 

makes it the perfect aperitif, or a great foil for 

spice, as the slight sugariness helps to cool 

the latent heat of the chili peppers found in 

many spicy dishes. 

Broberg’s flagship cider pairs a secret 

ingredient with the apples. With a little arm 

twisting, she relents and shares: “It’s one 

percent pear. I put it in just to give it a tiny 

bit more sweetness and depth.” 

She shies away from using cider apples 

– the small, tough-skinned, sour fruits 

traditionally favored in more rustic blends. 

“All the fruit I use is table fruit, grown in New 

South Wales,” she explains. “It is better for 

the cider I want to make.” She uses a very 

un-rustic technique to extract the juices from 

these premium fruits: a ‘reverse osmosis’ 

machine, so hi-tech it makes the Large 

Hadron Collider sound like a caveman’s flint 

knife. “It is a prohibitively expensive machine,” 

she laughs, “so I just hire it. I don’t think any 

winery could actually afford to use one.” 

Regularly used in winemaking to lower 

alcohol levels, Broberg uses reverse osmosis 

to extract water from the apple and pear 

juices, leaving a rich, syrupy fruit reduction 

which adds to the palate feel she is seeking 

in her blend. “This more intense fresh juice 

gives a coating to the mouth which creates 

texture. And I think you can taste the 

pear more intensely too. There are a lot of 

aromatics in there.” 

Broberg has been making Appleman 

cider now for over a year, and has come up 

with a cider that has a delicate, pure flavor 

with a delicious fizz. “I keep blending and 

blending on taste alone, and I keep coming 

back to the same formula. So I think I’ve got 

it right now.” 

“ I found there was not enough consideration 

of the palate in cider making – how it feels, 

the texture in the mouth, the sensation of 

the acid and whether or not it has a finish.” 

Megan Broberg 的个性就像她酿造的苹果酒 

一样生气勃勃。她过去曾担任酿酒师 , 将 

专业知识与对气泡酒的热爱带到果园 , 以 

满满的热情 , 滔滔不绝地畅谈如何从葡萄 

转攻苹果 , 以及创造这瓶让人开怀畅饮的 

苹果酒背后运用了什么技术。 

她说 :「首先水果须保持纯净无瑕 , 这 

很有难度 , 因为苹果是种脆弱的水果。」 

为了让水果保持最佳状态 , 必须除去 

氧气 :「我用一种很棒的榨汁机抽取果汁 , 

在里面打入二氧化碳和氮气 , 完全消除其 

中的氧气。机器榨出白色的果汁 , 然后直 

接注入桶中。」 

苹果不好照顾 , 除了接触一点氧气 , 果 

汁便会变成不漂亮的棕色之外 , 更因为含有 

天然酵母和糖份 , 所以必须处于低温环境 , 

以免果汁自行发酵。桶中苹果汁的温度必须 

保持在摄氏五度 , 一路运往酿造场 , 输入另 

一个桶中 , 冷藏、静置沉淀一两天。 

Broberg 想在苹果酒中保留苹果的精 

华 , 希望能让人喝完仍感受到芳香余韵。 

「我发现过去酿造苹果酒没有仔细斟酌风 

味 , 无论是质地、口感、酸度表现 , 是否 

有尾韵等等 , 都不够留意。很多苹果酒没 

有尾韵 , 刚喝一口可以尝到苹果味 , 然后 

味道就消失了。」 

Broberg 拥有科学研究背景 , 她也说自 

己是个「研究狂 , 一天到晚泡在实验室」, 

这些条件帮助她成功追求纯粹的苹果风味。 

「苹果酒发酵要用比较多水果 , 所以最适合 

使用夏多内葡萄用的酵母。苹果酸度高 , 

又必须在低温下发酵 , 所以气泡类葡萄酒 

酵母最适合。」这种苹果酒和啤酒相当不同 , 

不像啤酒酿造商积极突显啤酒中的酵母风 

味。 Broberg 说 :「我必须找到味道纯中性 

的酵母 , 我不想让清新、芬芳的苹果中渗 

入一点杂味。」 

苹果纯粹清新的味道还会受到发酵的 

副产品影响。 Broberg 解释 :「硫化氢 (H2S) 

对于我特殊的苹果酒酿造方法会造成一大 

问题 , 闻起来就像臭鸡蛋 , 真的很臭 !」 

幸好她有酿酒师的秘密法宝 , 可以去除臭 

味 , 只留下苹果的清香 , 或留下玫瑰的香 

气 - 玫瑰新口味刚在香港推出 , 酒色呈现 

美丽的粉红 , 就像曙光的颜色 , 加入玫瑰水 , 

更添清新气息。喝起来则略带甜度 , 是完 

美的开胃酒 , 也适合搭配辛香食物 , 酒中 

轻微的甜味能平衡辛辣料理中红辣椒的热 

劲。 

Broberg 的顶级苹果酒中还加入一种秘 

方 , 经我们略为施压 , 她也大方透露 :「其 

中有百分之一的梨子汁 , 能增添一点甜味 

和层次。」 

提到使用的苹果 , 她则避重就轻。酿 

造用的是个头小、皮粗带酸味的苹果 , 传 

统上用于较朴实的酒。「我用的所有水果 

都是餐桌上的食用水果 , 生长在新南斯威 

尔州。这类苹果比较适合我想酿的苹果酒。」 

从这些优质水果萃取果汁的技术就毫不朴 

实了 - Broberg 采用逆渗透机 , 和这台机 

器相较之下 , 大型强子对撞机就像穴居人 

的打火石。 Broberg 笑着说 :「这台机器非 

常昂贵 , 我只能租用。我想没有一家酿酒 

厂买得起。」 

逆渗透机在酿酒中通常用来降低酒精 

浓度 ,Broberg 则用来抽取苹果汁与梨子汁 

中的水分 , 留下浓郁、糖浆般的浓缩果汁 , 

以达到她所追求的质地。「这种比较浓郁 

的新鲜果汁会包覆口腔 , 创造口感 , 也能 

尝到更香浓的梨子风味。其中含有很多芳 

香烃。」 

Broberg 酿造 Appleman 苹果酒已经一 

年多 , 创造的苹果酒风味精粹纯净 , 还有 

宜人的气泡。「我根据味道一再重新调制 , 

最后得到的配方都是相同的 , 所以我想我 

已经找到最理想的酿制方法了。」 

134 




 

Chef Tan’s Tandoori Crusted Salmon relies heavily 

on Indian spices, mint chutney and paneer cheese. 

陈利强的坦都里窑烤脆皮三文鱼大量使用印度香料、 

薄荷甜酸酱与菠菜奶酪。 

Spicy Soup Ekor with Oxtail Wonton Ravioli. 

香辣牛尾汤配意大利馄饨。 

 

Chef Tan strips a Malaysian Curry Laksa down to its 

core qualities in order to focus on pure, true flavors. 

马来西亚咖喱叻沙展现菜色精髓 , 讲求纯粹、真实的风味。 

 

旧世风华 

old world charm 

Styled after the old Bela Vista Hotel, Grand Lapa Macau’s highly refined Café 

Bela Vista combines elegant architecture and palate-invigorating cuisine. 

WICKER CHAIRS sit invitingly along the old 

colonial verandah under swaying palm trees 

and whirring white fans. Sunlight pours 

in through louvered shutters and dapples 

across the mosaic floor. To visit Grand Lapa 

Macau’s Café Bela Vista is to step out of time 

and pass into a realm of old world elegance. 

An open kitchen and live cooking 

stations serve up a variety of Asian dishes, 

international favorites, and Macanese and 

Portuguese specialties. Executive Sous Chef 

Tan Lee Kiong enlivens his stylish dishes 

with spices from his native Malaysia. 

“Malaysian cuisine is a mix of Indian, 

Malay and Chinese. That really shows in my 

food,” he says. “I love to work with Sarawak 

black pepper. It has such a bold flavor – it 

can really hold its own in a curry.” 

His Tandoori Crusted Salmon relies 

heavily on Indian spices, mint chutney and 

paneer cheese. He strips a Malaysian Curry 

Laksa down to its core qualities in order to 

focus on pure, true flavors. A spicy oxtail 

Soup Ekon is served with ravioli wrapped 

in wonton skin. 

The all-day dining at the Café Bela Vista 

includes a breakfast buffet, a semi-lunch 

buffet, afternoon tea sets, and an a la carte 

menu in the evening. The weekend seafood 

dinner buffets draw crowds of dedicated 

diners. 

“My mother’s Malaysian curry was the 

dish that inspired me to become a chef,” says 

Chef Tan. “She would ask me to pick the 

spices up from the market, and get me to 

grind the garlic and ginger. It was back then 

that I realized I had a passion for cooking.” 

Elegant, old world surroundings and 

delicious, palate-invigorating dishes make 

for a soul-satisfying combination. 

旧殖民风格露台上摆着柳条椅 , 可邀亲朋 

来歇歇腿 ; 一旁棕榈树叶影摇曳 , 白色的 

吊扇徐徐转动。阳光透过百叶窗格倾泻 , 

在马赛克地板上洒上斑斓光影。造访澳门 

金丽华酒店的荟景阁咖啡厅 , 仿佛穿过时 

光隧道 , 走入旧世界的优雅国度。 

咖啡厅内有开放式厨房和现场烹饪台 , 

提供各式亚洲佳肴、国际美食 , 以及澳门 

和葡 sl 萄牙特色料理。助理行政总厨陈利强 

先生采用家乡马来西亚当地香料 , 赋予充 

满时尚味的料理鲜活生命力。 

陈利强说 :「马来西亚结合了印度、马 

来西亚和中国文化 , 这点充分呈现在我的 

料理中。我喜欢运用沙劳越黑胡椒 , 它的 

风味突出 , 即使在咖喱中也香气鲜明。」 

马来西亚咖喱叻沙展现菜色精髓 , 讲求纯 

粹、真实的风味。 

荟景阁咖啡厅全天供应餐点 , 包括自助 

早餐、半自助午餐、下午茶套餐 , 晚上则 

供应单点菜色。周末供应海鲜自助晚餐 , 

许多客人慕名而来。 

陈利强说道 :「我受到母亲的马来西亚 

咖喱启发 , 才选择厨师一职。母亲会要我 

去市场挑选香料 , 要我磨大蒜和生姜。自 

那时起我就知道我是非常热爱烹饪。」 

抚慰心灵的精致佳肴 , 别出心裁的鲜活 

风味 , 荟景阁咖啡厅呈献让人食指大动的 

完美结合。 

136 

| TK | flavor dna


绿维特利纳的多重风貌 

the many guises 

of austria’s grüner veltliner 

Austria has been producing more and more wonderful reds, but the 

country’s star grape is still the native, distinctively spicy Grüner Veltliner. 

WHEN REFERRING to their signature white 

grape, Grüner Veltliner, Austrians use a special 

word: Pfefferl. It refers to the distinctive 

notes of white pepper which appear in the 

nose and finish of Grüner Veltliner wines. 

But these wines have complex flavor profiles 

that feature not just the characteristic 

spice but also notes of citrus and stone fruit, 

intense minerality and, in recent vintages, 

hints of tropical fruit. Alcohol levels range 

from 11% to 14.5%. Acidity is elevated, guaranteeing 

freshness and zest. 

With around a third of Austria’s vineyards 

planted with Grüner Veltliner, it is still the 

dominant grape varietal in the country 

despite losing more than a fifth of its acreage 

in the past decade. Reduced quantity has 

been accompanied by enhanced quality and 

even as Grüner acreages have been shrinking, 

the wine has been enjoying a surge of global 

popularity. Connoisseurs around the world 

refer to it as Gruner, Gru-Ve, or GV. 

Grüner Veltliner plantings are still 

relatively rare outside Austria and so far the 

unique terroir of eastern Austria seems to 

suit the grape best. 

In Austria, Grüner can be found 

everywhere. In the local Heurigen, or wine 

taverns, the young wine is often served with 

sparkling water as a refreshing spritzer. More 

serious Grüners make for a good aperitif 

and the wine has demonstrated a wonderful 

capacity for accompanying a wide variety of 

dishes and cuisines, from sushi and shellfish 

to Chinese dishes. 

Though most often enjoyed young, 

Grüner Veltliner has been steadily winning 

a reputation as a wine that ages incredibly 

well, rivaling the longevity of the greatest 

Bugundies and Rieslings, with some 

examples still fresh and complex even after 

five decades. 

随着奥地利酿造出愈来愈多精彩的红酒 , 

最闪亮的葡萄品种仍是土生土长、辛香萦 

绕的「绿维特利纳」(Grüner Veltliner)。 

谈到他们著名的白葡萄「绿维特利纳」时 , 

奥地利人会提及一特殊字眼 :Pfefferl, 指 

的是绿维特利纳鲜明的白胡椒香气与尾韵。 

绿维特利纳葡萄酒风味丰富多样 , 除 

了特有的香料味 , 也有柑橘、桃李、强烈 

的矿石味 , 近年酿造的产品更有热带水果 

香气 ; 酒精含量从 11% 到 14.5% 不等 , 酸 

度较高 , 喝来爽口清冽。 

大约三分之一奥地利葡萄园种植着 

绿维特利纳 , 尽管过去十年来 , 耕作面 

积减少了五分之一以上 , 但其仍是奥地利 

的主要葡萄品种。即使耕作面积下降 , 品 

质却不减反升 , 产量虽减 , 却在全球爱酒 

人士间掀起一阵旋风 , 各地鉴赏家称之为 

Gruner、Gru-Ve 或 GV。 

绿维特利纳在奥地利之外较为罕见 , 

捷克及匈牙利有部分种植 , 最近澳大利亚、 

美国与新西兰也开始尝试。目前为止 , 奥 

地利东部独特的风土条件似乎最适合此种 

葡萄生长。 

绿维特利纳葡萄酒在奥地利随处可见 , 

当地小酒馆 Heurigen 会在年份较短的绿维 

特利纳中加入气泡水 , 作为清凉饮料 , 年 

份较长的绿维特利纳则适合当开胃酒 , 可 

搭配从寿司、带壳海鲜到中国菜等各式各 

样的菜肴与料理。 

绿维特利纳虽然多半在新酿好时饮用 , 

但酒界已渐渐发现它陈年后表现依然非常 

出色 , 比起顶级的勃根地红酒与雷司令白 

酒亦不遑多让。有些放置五十年后 , 喝来 

依旧层次丰富、新鲜清爽。 

Scenes from eastern Austria, where red 

grapes have been gaining ground but 

Grüner Veltliner is still the star. 

此景摄于奥地利东部 , 红葡萄初受青睐 

之时 , 绿维特利纳依然是耀眼明星。 

FROM TOP LEFT: AWMB/LUKAN, GERHARD TRUMLER, FABER, KOMITEE KAMPTAL, LUKAN, EGON MARK, FABER, KOMITEE KAMPTAL, BERNHARD SCHRAMM, ÖWM/GOTSCHIM 

138 




主厨做主创意上菜 

leave it up to the chef 

Chef Guillaume Galliot’s precision in the kitchen, mastery of his 

ingredients and improvisational wizardry make a meal at The Tasting 

Room one of the most satisfying gourmet experiences in the region. 

“THE SECRET to perfectly cooked crab is to 

match the grams with the cooking time,” says 

Guillaume Galliot, Chef de Cuisine at The 

Tasting Room, City of Dreams Macau. “Five 

hundred grams of crab needs to be cooked 

for five hundred seconds.” 

Cooking perfect crab is essential for 

Chef Guillaume’s signature dish of Alaskan 

crab tartar. Served in the empty shell of a 

razor clam, the crab is topped with pieces of 

the clam, bright segments of grapefruit and 

orange, and sprigs of coriander. A caviar and 

champagne sauce balances the strong sea 

flavors. “When you go to Brittany and get a 

wave of that strong sea smell – that is what 

this dish is like,” he says. 

Guillaume cooks in a pure, direct 

style, aiming to coax his ingredients into 

communicating their true essence. Like every 

great chef, he has a deep understanding of 

how to take advantage of the bounty of each 

season and delights in the new possibilities 

that are constantly arriving. The arrival of 

autumn means one thing most of all: white 

truffles. “Every dish I make with white truffles 

I try to pair with rich ingredients. That’s the 

perfect match for a truffle,” he says. “You 

澳门新濠天地「御膳房」主厨 Guillaume 

Galliot 和大家分享煮螃蟹的秘诀 :「煮好螃 

蟹的诀窍就是有多少克的螃蟹 , 就煮多少 

时间。五百克蟹肉就煮五百秒。」 

煮出完美的螃蟹 , 才能做出 Guillaume 

主厨的招牌菜「阿拉斯加皇帝蟹鞑靼」。这 

道菜以蛏子壳盛装蟹肉 , 上铺蛏肉 , 再加 

上晶莹剔透的葡萄柚与柑橙瓣 , 缀以芫荽 

枝 , 最后以鱼子酱和香槟酱汁平衡强劲的 

海洋风味结尾。主厨强调 :「这道菜要营造 

Abalone Carbonara Style 

with 56 Month Pata 

Negra Ham, White 

Truffles. 

煙肉忌廉鮑魚配五十六個 

月西班牙火腿及白松露 

Chef de Cuisine Guillaume Galliot flavor dna | TK | 141


Roasted Turbot with 

Alaskan King Crab Tartar, 

White Truffles, Caviar and 

Champagne Sauce. 

燒多寶魚配皇帝蟹韃靼 

伴白松露及香檳魚子汁 

have to understand what works together. I 

don’t use white truffles with tomatoes – it’s 

just a combination that doesn’t work.” 

The Tasting Room’s “Up to the Chef” 

menu was born from Guillaume’s love of 

improvising dishes on the spot using fresh 

daily ingredients. Usually an eight-course 

meal, diners put the menu aside and place 

their trust in Guillaume, who surprises and 

delights with special dishes created using the 

best products in the kitchen. “I look at all 

the ingredients in front of me, and let my 

creative side come out,” he says. “I use very 

high quality products – truffles, caviar, sea 

bass, crab. Every day can be different.” 

For Guillaume’s abalone carbonara, 

strips of abalone are julienned to resemble 

spaghetti. “There is no pasta in this dish,” he 

says. “All the other ingredients that you find 

in a carbonara are there, just not the pasta.” 

Unlike the traditional Chinese method of 

braising abalone for hours, Guillaume cooks 

his for only thirty seconds to give the same 

texture as al-dente pasta. The carbonara is 

topped with a quail egg, chopped chives, 

Parmesan cheese and Iberico ham, and in 

the autumn and winter months, shaved white 

truffles. “The power of the fragrance that 

the white truffle brings to the dish is quite 

interesting,” he says. 

The dishes at The Tasting Room may be 

constantly changing, from day to day and 

from season to season, but one thing that 

doesn’t change is Guillaume’s attention to 

detail and ambition to deliver a superior, 

truly memorable dining experience. “When 

I was twelve years old, I would watch all 

the big chefs – Robuchon, Ducasse – on 

the television. I was fascinated by that level 

of cuisine. Cooking is a bit like a military 

operation; everything has to be perfect, 

clean, and well presented. I like that. I 

thought: that’s what I want to do.” Mission 

accomplished. 

的 , 就是你在布列塔尼会闻到的那股海水 

强烈鲜明的味道。」 

Guillaume 主厨烹饪的方式纯粹、直 

接 , 目标是诱发食材最纯正的风味。和其 

他厨艺高超的大师一样 , 他非常了解如何 

撷取当季特有的丰富食材 , 不停创造出新 

的风味。秋天的重头戏就是白松露。他说 : 

「每道选用白松露的菜式都必须搭配滋味 

浓郁的食材 , 相得益彰。厨师必须了解什 

么食材适合互相搭配 , 而我则不会同时使 

用白松露和西红柿 , 这种搭配味道就是不 

对。」 

主厨热衷于运用每天的新鲜食材即兴 

发挥 , 因此催生了御膳房的「总厨精选套 

餐」, 套餐菜色由主厨决定 , 一般有八道 , 

饕客只管把菜单放一边 , 让主厨精心挑选 

厨房里最出色的食材 , 打造令人惊喜的独 

特佳肴。主厨说 :「我会检视眼前所有食材 , 

大玩创意 , 选用的都是高级食材 , 像是松 

露、鱼子酱、海鲈鱼、螃蟹等 , 每天都有 

新变化。」 

例如 ,Guillaume 主厨的特色菜「烟肉 

忌廉鲍鱼」, 就是将鲍鱼切成条 , 仿造意大 

利面条。他说明 :「这道菜里没有意大利面 , 

其他烟肉忌廉意大利面的材料盘里都有 , 

就是没有意大利面。」 

主厨烹调鲍鱼的方法与中国传统炖上 

几小时不同 , 只烫三十秒 , 创造与意大利 

面相同、外软内韧的口感。此外 , 再加上 

鹌鹑蛋、切碎的细香葱、帕马干酪和伊比 

利亚黑毛猪火腿 , 秋冬时节更会削入白松 

露 ,「白松露的香味力道十足 , 让这道料理 

更有意思。」 

御膳房的菜色可能每天、每季都在变 

化 , 但有一件事不变 , 就是主厨永远注重 

细节、充满抱负 , 努力端出让人回味无 

穷的顶级料理。「十二岁的时候 , 我会看 

Robuchon、Ducasse 等大厨的电视节目 , 

那种高水准的料理让我深深着迷。烹饪有 

点像军事行动 , 一切必须完美熟练、干净 

俐落、成果出色。我享受这种感觉 , 以至 

于当时就下定决心担任这样的工作。」毫 

无疑问 ,Guillaume 主厨已经圆满达成任 

务了。 



Private Dining Room 贵宾房 

私房菜 

private dining 

Grand Hyatt Macau has lifted private dining to new heights. 

WITH THEIR PRIVATE DINING ROOMS, on the 37th floor of the Grand Club 

Tower, Grand Hyatt Macau offers a high-flying VIP dining experience. 

Guests can enjoy gourmet meals in four elegantly appointed Private 

Dining Rooms with panoramic views of the Cotai. 

The ambience is luxurious down to every last detail. Different moods 

are set with five different sets of fine French porcelain, matching floral 

centerpieces, candles, and exquisite crystal glassware. 

Executive Sous Chef Stephen Au leads Grand Hyatt Macau’s dedicated 

banquet team. He traveled around Southern China while designing the 

special menu for the Private Dining Rooms. “I have a passion for creating 

delicacies that guests will enjoy, and for surprising them by cooking 

traditional dishes using new methods,” he says. Diners can also choose 

menu items from acclaimed Grand Hyatt Macau restaurants like Beijing 

Kitchen and mezza9 Macau. 

Everything here – from the décor to the food to the plates – is designed 

to deliver a superior level of satisfaction. 

澳门君悦酒店的「尊贵独立贵宾房」, 高踞「嘉宾 

轩楼」顶层三十七楼 , 能让宾客在高空拥有不同 

凡响的美食体验。宾客可于四间高雅的独立贵宾 

房内享用各色佳肴 , 饱览路氹风光。 

在贵宾房内 , 每处细节都能展现奢华高贵的 

氛围。房内提供五款不同的餐桌布置 , 每款均包 

括精巧法国瓷器 , 鲜艳花卉 , 蜡烛和精美水晶杯 , 

以配合不同场合的主题。 

行政副总厨欧汝初带领酒店的专业宴会团 

队。他曾走遍中国南部 , 为的就是构思特色菜单。 

欧师傅说 :「我热切期盼能创造出让客人满意的 

精致佳肴 , 并以创新手法制作传统菜式 , 带给客 

人惊喜。」此外 , 宾客也可点选酒店内各餐厅的精 

选菜式 , 如「满堂彩」与 mezza9 Macau 餐厅等。 

贵宾房内的每件物件 , 从食物的摆盘到供菜 

的装碟 , 均代表着为宾客提供优质和满意的服务。 

Guests can book the Private Dining Room with a minimum charge of MOP$12,000 plus 10% service charge. See page 156 for additional details. 

宾客均可预订独立贵宾房 , 房间最低消费为澳门币 12,000, 另加 10% 服务费。详情请查阅本刊第 156 页。 

144 


Executive Sous Chef 

Stephen Au 

行政副总厨欧汝初

藜麦龙虾沙拉 

quinoa lobster salad 

I WANTED TO MAKE a dish using quinoa. 

Although it’s been around for centuries, it 

has only recently started to get trendy and 

a lot of people still don’t know what it is. 

2013 is actually the International Year of 

Quinoa, so this dish is a great way to celebrate 

the occasion. This has been one of 

our signature dishes for two years. It’s a very 

healthy dish, very refreshing and very tasty. 

Our guests love it. 

The quinoa grain is known for its nutritional 

value; it is a great source of complete 

protein and calcium and it is a good source 

of dietary fibers. You have to be careful not 

to overcook it or it can go soft. When it’s 

cooked perfectly it should still have a slight 

crunch to it. 

To give more value to the quinoa I have 

put it together with lobster. Our customers 

really enjoy seafood, and lobster is a favorite. 

There is really no secret to cooking the perfect 

lobster – you just have to put in a lot of 

love and respect the cooking techniques. You 

can make sure your lobster is full of flavor by 

poaching it in a court bouillon with sea salt 

and some vegetables. 

Orange vinaigrette gives the lobster and 

quinoa a citrusy punch. The dish is decorated 

with romaine leaves, which add a fresh 

crispy texture and a nice bright green color. 

We finish it with colorful edible flowers, and 

I add fresh lychee, which people in Asia love. 

It’s very important to season this dish à la 

minute – if you season it in advance, things 

go soggy. I like to use fleur de sel, as regular 

salt melts too quickly. Fleur de sel is great 

right at the end, to give a little extra character 

to the dish. Finally and most importantly, 

presentation is key: guests eat with their eyes 

first and seeing the dish should inspire a nice 

big appetite. 

Elie Khalife, Chef de Cuisine at MGM 

MACAU’s Aux Beaux Arts, was ahead of 

the trend when he created a signature 

dish using quinoa. Here he shares how 

to make this newest superfood shine. 

澳门美高梅酒店宝雅座总厨 Elie 

Khalife 引领潮流 , 以藜麦创造招 

牌佳肴。且看他分享如何让藜麦 

这种最新的超级食物大放异彩。 

之前我想用藜麦做一道菜 , 藜麦虽然已经 

有几百年历史 , 但最近才流行起来 , 还有 

很多人不晓得藜麦是什么。 2013 年是国际 

藜麦年 , 刚好能用这道菜来庆祝。这道菜 

两年来一直是我们的招牌菜 , 健康、清爽 

又美味 , 客人都很喜欢。 

藜麦以营养丰富闻名 , 含有完整的蛋 

白质和钙 , 同时富含膳食纤维。烹调时必 

须小心不要煮过头以免太软 , 藜麦煮得刚 

刚好时应该还略带爽脆。 

为了增加藜麦的价值 , 我选用龙虾搭 

配。我们的客人很喜欢吃海鲜 , 尤其喜欢 

龙虾。煮好龙虾其实没有什么秘诀 , 只需 

要投入热情 , 并照着烹饪技巧来做就行了。 

把龙虾放入煮鱼用的调味汤中 , 加上海盐 

与少许蔬菜 , 煮出的龙虾就会滋味鲜美。 

香橙油醋汁赋予龙虾与藜麦清爽的柑 

橘风味 , 以萝蔓生菜装饰 , 则能增添新鲜 

爽脆的口感及漂亮的鲜绿色 , 最后再加上 

丰富多彩的食用花卉。我还会加入新鲜荔 

枝 , 亚洲人很喜欢荔枝。 

记住 , 一定要在客人点菜后再调味 , 

如果事先调味 , 整道菜都会变得湿漉漉的。 

调味时我喜欢用盐之花 , 因为一般的盐融 

化太快。盐之花有画龙点睛之妙 , 赋予这 

道菜额外风味。最后 , 最重要的 , 摆盘非 

常关键 , 客人是先用眼睛品尝的 , 这道菜 

的美丽卖相应该能引发好食欲。 

Chef de Cuisine Elie Khalife 

146 



Quinoa Lobster Salad with Fresh Lychee 

and Orange Vinaigrette 

QUINOA 

50 grams Quinoa grain 

20 grams shallots 

20 grams French chives 

5 pcs of Corinth raisins 

1 leaf of basil 

1 fresh lychee 

½ orange 

salt/pepper 

LOBSTER 

2 liters water 

1 tbls sea salt 

30 grams carrot 

30 grams celery 

30 grams onion 

30 grams leek 

1 bay leaf 

½ tbls black pepper 

ORANGE 

VINAIGRETTE 

200 grams fresh orange juice 

1 tbls extra virgin olive oil 

salt/pepper 

GARNISH 

1 romaine leaf 

mixed edible flowers 

1 fresh lychee 

1 orange 

olive oil 

Quinoa: Cover the quinoa with three times that amount of 

water. Add salt and cook over low heat until the water is 

absorbed. Place in a bowl to cool down in the fridge, then 

add the lemon juice, olive oil, chopped shallots and French 

chives, the Corinth raisins, chopped basil, orange zest, and 

salt and pepper. 

Lobster: Heat the water to boiling in a pot with the sea 

salt and the vegetables. Add the lobster and cook for five 

minutes. Remove the claws and cook them for another 

minute. Transfer to ice water to stop the cooking process 

and to cool the flesh down. Break the shells and remove 

the lobster, cut it in nice pieces and season it with olive 

oil, fleur de sel, pepper, and orange zest. 

Orange Vinaigrette: Reduce the orange juice with some 

orange skin to 3⁄4, cool down and whisk with olive oil, 

salt, and pepper. 

Finishing: In an 8-cm diameter ring place the quinoa 

salad and arrange the lobster nicely on top. Add the 

halved lychee, the orange, and the romaine leaf. Decorate 

with the edible flowers, some fresh baby cress and finish 

with the orange vinaigrette around the plate. 

Bon appétit! 

藜麦龙虾沙拉佐新鲜荔枝及香橙油醋汁 

藜麦沙拉 

50 克藜麦 

20 克珠葱 

20 克法国香葱 

5 粒科林斯葡萄干 

1 枝罗勒 

1 颗新鲜荔枝 

½ 个柳橙 

盐 / 胡椒 

龙虾 

2 升水 

1 大匙海盐 

30 克胡萝卜 

30 克芹菜 

30 克洋葱 

30 克韭葱 

1 片月桂叶 

½ 大匙黑胡椒 

香橙油醋汁 

200 克新鲜柳橙汁 

1 大匙特级初榨橄榄油 

盐 / 胡椒 

装饰 

1 片罗蔓生菜叶 

各种食用花卉 

1 颗新鲜荔枝 

1 个柳橙 

橄榄油 

藜麦 : 把藜麦放入三倍的水中 , 加入 

盐 , 以小火煮至水被吸收。将藜麦放入 

碗里 , 置于冰箱中放凉 , 再加入柠檬 

汁、橄榄油、切碎的珠葱和法国香葱、 

科林斯葡萄干、切碎的罗勒、橙皮、盐 

和胡椒。 

龙虾 : 在水中加入海盐及蔬菜 , 锅中煮 

沸。加入龙虾煮五分钟 , 虾螯单独再煮 

一分钟。放入冰水以冰镇并冷却虾肉。 

剥壳取出虾肉 , 切细片 , 以橄榄油、盐 

之花、胡椒、橙皮调味。 

香橙油醋汁 : 柳橙汁加入一些橙皮 , 加 

热浓缩至 3/4, 放凉后拌入橄榄油、盐和 

胡椒。 

盛盘 : 将藜麦沙拉排成直径八公分的 

环 , 上面整齐铺排龙虾。加入切半的荔 

枝、柳橙、萝蔓生菜。装饰食用花卉、 

一些新鲜的水芹婴 , 最后浇上一圈香橙 

油醋汁。 

请慢用 ! 

Chef de Cuisine Elie Khalife 

148 

| TK | flavor dna

wine masters 

曜黑纯酿 

dark matter 

Richard Geoffroy, Dom Pérignon Chef de Cave, is fascinated with the shadows of life, the 

invisible and the unknown. “We think we are on top of everything but we know so little,” 

he says. “It’s exciting but also terrifying.” When he makes wine, Geoffroy is interested in 

tension and flux, the restraint in the structure of a blend that conceals flavor notes, allowing 

a wine to gradually reveal itself and to express previously hidden elements of its character. 

He told TK recently that the recently released Dom Pérignon is just such a wine: quiet and 

elegant, but with complexity and great depth. § 香槟之王「Dom Pérignon」酒窖总监 

Richard Geoffroy 深深着迷于生命的幽暗、肉眼所不及或未知事物。他解释道 :「人 

类总以为自己高高在上 , 实际上我们所知甚少 , 想来虽令人有点害怕 , 同时却让人兴 

奋不已。」酿酒过程中的强度变化及酒体平衡都是他相当注重之处 , 混和不同葡萄种 

的酿制方式使得风韵内敛慢发 , 葡萄酒得以逐渐散发自身特性 , 凸显深藏的隐性特 

质。Geoffroy 最近接受 TK 访问 , 便形容 Dom Pérignon 最新发售的 2004 年酒款正具备上 

述优点 : 沉稳、优雅的同时 , 又不失引人入胜的繁复风味及深度。 

150 


wine masters 

Tell us about the 2004 vintage. 

All these vintages are so different – 

pure expressions of the seasons, of Mother 

Nature. Creating a wine is a balancing act 

between what comes from the venue and 

the vintage. 

The 2003 vintage was plumper, more 

ample. It almost had a still wine quality, a 

glorious golden white Burgundian character. 

But in ‘04 we are back to the classics – that’s 

the perception of the outside. It’s very elegant 

– I am suspicious of the term elegant 

because it is sometimes used to hide something 

that is lightweight – but this is not. It 

is truly elegant. 

How does Dom Pérignon work with 

food? 

I think Dom Pérignon has that special 

capacity to make it through an entire meal. I 

think there is a sort of harmony and embracing 

quality and flux in the wine that can raise 

itself to any challenge. Even the most gentle 

vintage. When the wine is on such a scheme 

of harmony it has that flux to adapt. 

How about with Chinese food, served 

family style with its complex and varied 

flavors? 

You can start off with very gentle flavors 

but the same wine can move on – from Cantonese 

to Sichuan. The wine adjusts with 

each flavor. So the wine remains at the level 

– it doesn’t impose itself, it is always on a 

par, never above. We served one vintage, 

1999, at a dinner that started with oysters 

and finished with a chocolate dessert. This 

one could do well with Chinese food. The 

full-bodied 2003 could definitely work, even 

with heat and spice. 

How do you make it like that? 

The way Dom Pérignon is blended 

together, opposing the two grape varieties 

Chardonnay and Pinot Noir – it’s yin and 

yang leading to harmony. Something which 

has always appealed to me, I adjust it every 

year – there is balance. It is never the same. 

You can never replicate. You have to recreate 

and the whole blending process is driven 

by taste. 

Which specific bottles would you recommend 

with a Chinese meal? 

COURTESY OF DOM PÉRIGNON 

Oenotheque single release 1995/1996. 

This would be able to cope with seafood, 

vegetables, meat, soup, salty dishes. I would 

also consider Dom Pérignon rosé – one single 

rosé wine to accompany a whole banquet. 

Champagne is seen as a drink for celebrations. 

But does it intimidate some 

people? 

Champagne is not just for special occasions. 

And celebrations don’t have to be 

formal – I don’t like formality. Drinking 

Champagne should be natural, a celebration 

of life. People can be intimidated by Champagne 

but that saddens me. I hope I get the 

right balance when I make these wines, so 

they are more approachable. I don’t want 

intimidation. Wines are like people – you 

need to find the right distance of friendliness 

and respect. Nobody should be entitled 

to be intimidating to others. It’s about finding 

the sensible distance. All life is like that. 

You studied medicine. What are the 

similarities between medicine and wine 

making? 

Both disciplines are about living things. 

There is so much life in wine. Grapes without 

yeast are nothing – they go bad. Wine making 

is about how can you convert something perishable 

into something durable and joyful. 

What is it about the flavor of Champagne 

that fascinates you most? 

When it comes to food and wine and life, 

I am more interested in the dark than the 

light. In Chinese cuisine it is the dark flavours, 

like fermented soy beans and black 

beans. I am always screening, checking and 

tasting to discover more flavors. I am more 

interested in shade than light, in those flavors 

that are less visible in food and wine. 

With Dom Pérignon 2004 it is the beautiful 

minerality and darkness within the blend. If 

you are too drawn by the visible lures you 

miss so much. Think of the universe – the 

dark matter. It’s amazing and scary all at 

once. We know so little. So I have a tendency 

to search for the invisible. 

跟我们介绍一下这款 2004 年的葡萄酒。 

因为季节或自然条件不同 , 每款酒呈 

现的风情也各有所异。酿酒可以说是在产 

地及葡萄产量间巧妙拿捏的一门学问。 

2003 年的葡萄比较丰盈 , 产量也大 , 几 

乎齐备酿制静态葡萄酒的条件 , 直追盛名 

在外、白勃艮第顶级金黄白酒的品质。但 

2004 年我们回归经典款 , 评价如同我们的 

一径形象 - 极度优雅。 

有时酒体清淡的酒品也 

用优雅一词带过 , 让我 

对此形容多有保留。不 

过 Dom Pérignon 2004 

年葡萄酒可是货真价实、 

无从挑剔的极度优雅。 

Dom Pérignon 的餐酒 

搭配如何 ? 

Dom Pérignon 就是 

有种特别的魔力 , 用餐 

期间能使醇香风韵丝毫 

不减。酒中完美的酒体平衡 , 碰到各种食 

材都能搭配、调和的天衣无缝 , 即使是最 

温和的酒款 , 它的调和性也不打折扣 , 均 

能视料理不同调适自身到最佳状态。 

碰到味道繁复多变、家庭式上菜的中国菜 

又如何呢 ? 

可以从味道比较清淡的菜色吃起 , 不过 

同样一支酒其实从广东菜吃到四川菜都行 , 

味道百搭。我们的酒喝来没有任何勉强之 

处 , 四平八稳、韵致始终如一。像以生蚝为 

开胃菜的晚餐 , 到最后一道巧克力甜点 , 用 

1999 年的酒款都能搭配的恰到好处。浓醇 

的 2003 年葡萄酒也绝对是最佳选择 , 配上 

辛辣热炒的菜色都能发挥的相得益彰。 

怎样让葡萄酒达到如此境界 ? 

关键在于 Dom Pérignon 独到的混酿方 

式 , 即将白葡萄之王「夏多内 (Chardonnay)」 

及红葡萄种「黑皮诺 (Pinot Noir)」两种风 

味迥异的葡萄品种混搭 , 如同阴阳调和般 

创造出极致的风味。混和比例每年都要调 

整 , 追求完美平衡让我乐在其中。因为比 

例从不雷同 , 根本也无从仿制。每次都要 

重新混酿与创造 , 就是要让味道提升到最 

佳层次。 

搭配中菜会特别推荐哪一支酒 ? 

“ There is so 

much life 

in wine. 

陶醉于葡萄酒 

中的生活。” 

「Oenotheque」1995/1996 经典年份单 

次限量酒款。它与海鲜、蔬菜、肉类、汤 

品及调味偏咸的菜色都可搭配 , 或是 Dom 

Pérignon 玫瑰香槟也很适合 , 于席间单支 

酒从头喝到尾绝对没问题。 

香槟似乎已成为欢庆的代名词 , 但是否也 

让人觉得有点高不可攀 ? 

没有规定香槟仅能 

在特殊场合饮用 , 庆祝 

也可以很随意 , 像我就 

不喜欢太正式。香槟就 

该惬意的享受、发自内 

心礼赞人生的美好才对 , 

所以知道有人对香槟敬 

而远之实在让我很伤心。 

我希望每次酿制不同葡 

萄酒款都能达到最佳平 

衡 , 让更多人愿意一尝 

其芳香滋味 , 而非拒 “ 酒 ” 

于千里之外。葡萄酒其 

实跟人很像 , 都需要拿捏亲疏远近、相互 

尊重。并非有人天生就该令人害怕 , 如何 

维持适当的舒适距离才是关键。我想人生 

中每件事都不外如是。 

您是学医出身 , 有发现医学和酿酒的相似 

之处吗 ? 

两者都与生命息息相关。酿酒是有生 

命的 , 何其丰富。葡萄没有了酵母便形同 

无物 , 就会劣化。把容易腐化的素材变化 

为恒远、令人欢愉的佳酿 - 酿酒便是如此 

的一门艺术。 

香槟有何种魔力让你深深着迷、至今无法 

自拔 ? 

谈到食物、美酒及人生 , 比起光明特质、 

最吸引我的反而是它们的幽暗面 , 像在中菜 

里便是发酵的大豆黑豆等较暗较重的味道最 

吸引我的注意。我不时留心、四处品尝确认 

口味 , 希望挖掘出更多不同的味道。我喜爱 

阴暗甚于明亮 , 套用在食物及酒 , 就是那些 

不易得见的元素。 Dom Pérignon 2004 年混 

酿便具有阴暗的特性 , 带着引人入胜的矿物 

风味。每每想着这些肉眼不及的元素而无法 

自己的时候 , 不妨想想宇宙中的暗黑物质吧 , 

令人向往却又心生畏惧 , 颇有异曲同工之妙。 

我们所知如此之少 , 驱使我继续在「看不见」 

的世界中探寻无穷的可能。 

152 



WHERE TO FIND TK" 

WHERE TO FIND TK" 

Tasting Kitchen is available at more than 100 newsstands and bookshops 

across the region, and at all of the following fine resorts, hotels and restaurants. 

《Tasting Kitchen》美食指南于各地上百个书报摊、书店及下列各大顶级度假村、酒店与餐厅皆能取得。 

HONG KONG 

RESTAURANTS 

1/5 nuevo 

208 Duecento Otto 

22 Ships 

798 Unit & Co - JAR 

8 1/2 Otto e Mezzo – 

Bombana 

A Touch of Spice 

Adagio 

Agehan 

agnès b. café L.P.G. (Chung 

San House, Cityplaza, 

Devon House, Fashion 

Walk) 

agnès b. le pain grillé 

Ah Yat Harbour View 

Restaurant 

Akita 

Al Bistro Mediterranean 

Restaurant & Bar - TST 

Al Dente (Great Eagle 

Centre, Jaffe Road, TST, 

SoHo) 

Al Molo Ristorante Italiano 

All Night Long 

Al's Diner 

Amante 

Amber 

Ambrosia Oyster Bar & Grill 

Amina Italian and Oyster 

Restaurant 

AMMO 

Amore Italian Restaurant 

ANA Oyster & Grill 

Angel's Share 

Another Fine Day 

An-Tico Enoteca • Pizzeria 

Antipasto 

Antique Patisserie 

Apgujeong Korean Tent Bar 

Applegreen CWB 

Applegreen TST 

Ayuthaiya 

Caffe Greco 

La Marmite 

Arima Teppanyaki 

Aropa 

Azure 

Baby Blue Cafe & Bar 

Bacar 

Bahama Mama's Caribbean 

Bar 

Banker Whisky and Wine 

Bar 

Barg 

Barista Jam 

Bella Vita 

Bellaria 

Berliner German Bar and 

Restaurant 

Bicho 

Biergarten 

Big Tree Pub 

Bistecca Italian Steak House 

Bistro Bamboo 

Bistrot Le Fauchon 

Bit Point 

Black stump Australian Grill 

& bar 

Bloom 

BLT Burger 

BLT Steak 

Blue Lemon café & wine 

bar 

Bo Innovation 

Bo-lo’gne Café & Bar 

Bo-Lo'gne 

Bombay Dreams 

Bonheur 

Bouchon Bistro Francais 

Bourbon 

Brasserie Le Fauchon 

Brat 

Bricklane 

Brivo 

Brotzeit German Bier Bar & 

Restaurant 

Brunch Club 

Bulldog's Bar & Grill 

Cafe by the Park 

Cafe Deco 

Cafe Elite 

Cafe Eos Club 

Cafe Gray Deluxe 

Café Iguana 

Café Locomotive 

Café Loisl 

Café Muse 

Cafe O 

Café on the 1st 

Cafe Rivoli 

Cafe TOO 

Cafe Zambra 

Cammino 

Caprice 

Carousel Fine Cake & 

Pastries 

Carpaccio 

Casa Fina 

Casa Lisboa Portuguese 

Restaurant & Bar 

Casablanca Oyster Steak 

Restaurant 

Cecconi's Italian 

Census Lounge 

Cepage 

C'est la B 

Chesa 

Chez Moi 

Chez Patrick Deli 

Chez Shibata 

Chikayaki 

Chilli Fagara 

Chocolate 

Chum Chum Mi 

CIN CIN Ristorante 

Circle Oyster 

Classified Mozzarella Bar 

Classified The Cheese Room 

Club Chow 

Club de Flavor 

Club Havana 

coast 

Cocky Bar 

Cova Café - Admiralty 

Cova Café - Lee Gardens 

Cova Pasticceria & Confetteria 

Cova Ristorante & Caffe 

Coyote Bar & Grill 

Craftsteak 

Cuisine Cuisine - IFC 

Cutty Sark 

Da Ping Huo 

Daddyos 

Dan Ryan's Chicago Grill 

Dap Modern European 

Restaurant 

Delaney's Wanchai 

Délifrance 

Devil's Advocate 

Divino Patio 

Divino Wine Bar & Restaurant 

Domani Ristorante 

Double Happiness Café 

Duetto 

Dynasty - Wanchai 

Eat Right 

edo & bibo Oyster & Steak 

House 

EL CID Spanish Restaurant 

El Pomposo 

Estudio 

F.A.B French - American 

Bistro 

Fandango Spanish Restaurant 

Fat Angelo's 

Felix 

FINDS 

Fish Bar & Grill 

Flame at Towngas Avenue 

Fleur de Sel 

Flute Bar 

Flutes Champagne and 

Cocktail Bar 

Fook Lam Moon - Wanchai 

Forum Restaurant 

Fresh Café & Bar 

Frites Belgium on Tap 

Fu Ho Restaurant - TST 

Fuel Espresso 

Full/half 

Gaddi's 

Gaia Ristorante 

Gaylord Indian Restaurant 

Gemini 

glo restaurant + lounge 

Goccia Restorante Bar 

Terrace 

Gokayama 

Gold By Harlan Goldstein 

Grand Central Bar & Grill 

Grappa's Ristorante 

Grecoπ 

Green 

Grill Cafe 

Handle Bar 

Harbour Restaurant 

Hard Rock Café 

Harlan's 

Harvey Nichols Fourth Floor 

Restaurant & Bar 

Hoi King Heen 

Hokkaido Dairy Farm Milk 

Restaurant 

Holly Brown 

Hong Kong University 

Alumni Association 

Hooray Bar & Restaurant 

HOUSE 

il meglio Ristorante di 

Venezla 

Il Moro 

iL Posto 97 

Inn Side Out 

Island Seafood & Oyster Bar 

- Causeway Bay 

Island Seafood & Oyster 

Bar - TST 

Island Tang 

Isola 

Italian No.5 

Iwanami 

Jaa Kitchen 

Japas 

Jashan Celebrating Indian 

Cuisine 

Jimmy's Kitchen 

Joe Bananas 

Joe's Billiards & Bar 

Joia 

Kaiko Teppanyaki 

Katte Shabushabu 

King Ludwig Beerhall (TST, 

Wanchai) 

Kitchen 65 

Kitchen M 

Knutsford Steak Chop & 

Oyster Bar 

Kosyu 

Kowloon Tang 

KYOTO JOE 

L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon 

La Bodega 

La Bon Restaurant & 

Lounge 

La Bon’s Café 

la brezza café 

La Cantoche 

La Casa Chilean Oyster Bar 

LA Creperie 

La Cucina Italiana 

La Maison 

La Pampa 

La Parole 

La Serene Caffè 

La TASCA 

La Terrasse 

l'altro 

Lattitude 22⁰ 

LaVilla TST 

Lawry's the Prime Rib 

Le Café 

Le Gouter Bernardaud 

(ICC, IFC) 

Le Marron 

Le Mieux Bistro 

Le Monde d' Ulysse (Restaurant 

Galerie) 

Le Salon Restaurant et 

Croissanterie 

Le Souk 

Lei Garden - IFC 

Life 

Lil' Siam 

Limehouse 

Linguini Fini 

Lobby Lounge 

Louis' Steak House 

Lung King Heen 

LUPA 

LUX Bistro & Bar 

Magnolia 

Mangrove Bar & Restaurant 

Marlin 

Mask of Si Chuen 

McSorley's Ale House 

Merhaba 

Mes Amis 

Metropolitan Café 

Ming Court 

Mini Dans la Ville 

Mirror 

MiSet Restaurant 

Miyabi Japanese Fine Dining 

Moon Thai 

Mr. Steak Grill 

Ms B's Cakery 

Munch 

Myung Ga Korean Restaurant 

Nahm Vietnamese & Thai 

Nan Tei 

Nepal 

Nicholini's 

Nico's 

Oceanna 

Okaki 

Ole Spanish Restaurant 

Oliver's Super Sandwiches 

(Cheong Kong Centre, 

Hong Kong Station) 

Oliver's Super Sandwiches - 

Melbourne Plaza 

One-Thirtyone 

Only Buonasera 

Oolaa 

Oolaa petite 

Orange Tree Restaurant 

Otto Restaurant & Bar 

OWL Our Wonderland 

Oysters Bar & Restaurant 

Papa Razzi 

Papi 

Pastis Bistro Francais 

Peace Square 

Peak Café Bar 

Pearl on the Peak 

Peking Garden Restaurant 

Pepino Italian Restaurant 

Petrus 

Pier 7 Cafe & Bar 

Pierre 

PizzaExpress, Central 

PizzaExpress, Wanchai 

Pizzazaza 

Podium Cafe 

Portobello 

Posto Pubblico 

PRIME steakhouse 

Red Bar & Restaurant 

Red Rock Bar & Grill 

Rei 

Restoration 

Rex Caffe 

Roka 

Rouge 

Royal Feast 

Rustic Organic Pizza Kitchen 

Ruth's Chris Steak House 

Sabatini Ristorante Italiano 

Sabor Spanish Touch Private 

Kitchen 

Sahara Mezz Bar 

Sakaegawa Japanese 

Resaturant 

Sake Bar GINN 

Sashay Cafe & Wine Bar 

Scirocco 

Serenade 

Sevva 

Shanghai Fraternity Association 

Shanghai Jade 

Shanghai Lu Yang Cuo 

Shore Steak 

Shui Hu Ju 

Simplylife Bakery Cafe 

Simplylife Bread & Wine 

SML 

Social House 

Socialito 

SoHo Spice Vietnamese 

& Thai 

Solas 

Sole mlo 

Sorriso Italian Cuisine 

Spasso Italian bar 

SPICE 

Spicy Fingers 

Spoil Cafe 

Spoon by Alain Ducasse 

Spring Moon 

St.George 

Star Restaurant 

Starz Wine Bar 

Staunton's Wine Bar & Café 

Steik World Meats 

Stone's 

Stormies 

Studio City 

Studio Nineteen 

Su Casa Chilean Oyster Bar 

Summer Palace 

Sunning Restaurant 

Sushi Hiro 

Sushi Imamura 

Sushi Kuu 

Sushi Shin 

T2 Teppanyaki & Tapas Bar 

Tai Ping Koon Restaurant 

Tandoor 

T'ang Court 

Taste 

Tate Dining Room & Bar 

Teppanyaki Kaika 

Tequila Jack's 

Thai Orchids Café & Bar 

KLN Bay 

Thai Orchids Café & Bar 

Mongkok 

The Box 

The Dutch Cheese and 

More 

The Fifties 

The Flying Pan 

The French Window 

The Globe 

The Great Indian Kebab 

Factory 

The Junk Pub 

The Lobby 

The Lotus 

The Parlour 

The Pawn 

The Peak Lookout 

The Press Room 

The Principal 

The Quarterdeck Club 

The Quarterdeck Hong Kong 

The Queen Victoria 

The Salted Pig 

The Square 

The Steak Kitchen Bar & 

Restaurant 

The Swiss Chalet 

The Wheel 

Tiffin 

Tim's Kitchen 

Tivo 

Tivoli Italian Restaurant 

Tonno Bar / Tonno Kitchen 

Trattoria Doppio Zero 

Tutto Bene 

Twyst 

Uno Duo Trio - Lana's Italian 

Home Cooking 

Up 

Va Bene 

Van Gogh Kitchen 

Via 28 Ristorante 

View 62 by Paco Roncero 

Vivo 

W28 Steak House 

Wabi Sabi Japanese Restaurant 

Wagyu Kaiseki Den 

Wagyu Lounge 

Wanya Japanese Restaurant 

Watson's Wine SoHo 

Weinstube 

Westwood Carvery 

Wildfire 

Wildfire pizzabar & Grill 

Wing's Kitchen 

Wooloomooloo Prime 

Wooloomooloo Steakhouse 

Wyndham the 4th 

Xi Yan Sweets 

Yan Toh Heen 

Yat Tung Heen - Wanchai 

Yi Pai Ya 

Yorkshire Pudding 

Yu Joy Chinese Restaurant 

Zelo Spanish Restaurant & 

Tapas Bar 

Zen 

Zentro Bar & Eatery 

ZOO 

Zummer 

四合軒 

CLUBHOUSES 

United Services Recreation 

Club 

Pacific club 

HK Bartender's & Sommelier's 

Association 

Aberdeen Marina Club 

American Club - Hong Kong 

Country Club 

American Club - Town Club 

Asia Golf Club 

Caldecott Hill 

Chinese Recreation Club 

Continental Club 

Craigengower Cricket Club 

Discovery Bay Recreation 

Club 

Fairview Park Country Club 

Federation of the Swiss 

Watch Industry 

Gold Coast Resident's Club 

House 

Gold Coast Yacht and 

Country Club 

Harbour Front Club House 

Hebe Haven Yacht Club 

Hong Kong Country Club 

Hong Kong Cricket Club 

Hong Lok Yuen Country 

Club 

Kerry Property Management 

services Ltd (15 

Homantin Hill, Belgravia, 

Branksome Grande 

& Branksome Crest, 

Century Tower I & II, 

November Tower I & II, 

SOHO 38, Tavistock II & 

Aigburth, Valverde) 

Kowloon Tong Club 

Macau Jockey Club 

Marina Club Discovery Bay 

Marina Cove Club 

Mariners' Club (The Narubers 

Club) 

Mission Hills Golf Club 

Orient Express No. 8 

Club Bel Air 

Pacific Club 

Palais Monaco 

Premier 

Royal Hong Kong Yacht Club 

Shek O Golf Country Club 

The Beverly Hills (Resident's 

Clubhouse) 

The China Club 

The Clearwater Bay Golf & 

Country Club, HK 

The Cullinan 

The Ellipsis 

The Foreign Correspondents' 

Club Hong Kong 

The Hong Kong Golf Club - 

Deep Water Bay 

The Kowloon Club 

The Kowloon Cricket Club 

The Novemberfair 

The Palazzo Derby 

Three Bays 

Ville De Jardin's Clubhouse 

WINE AND 

GOURMET SHOPS 

Vamorosso Fine Wines Ltd. 

Concord Fine Wines Limited 

Cottage Vineyards (International) 

Limited 

Delish 

Hong Kong Wine Vault 

Jiontek Fine Wines (Hong 

Kong) Limited - Admiralty, 

Wanchai, TST, 

Kwai Chung 

Limitless Holdings Limited 

Monsieur Chatté, Sheung Wan 

Monsieur Chatté, Elements 

Pan-Handler 

Portrait Winemakers & 

distillers 

Prime Cellar Wine Tasting 

Room 

Queensway Wine 

Sino Vantage Asia Limited 

Valentino Chocolatier - Sai 

Kung 

Valentino Chocolatier - 

Wanchai 

HOTELS 

City Garden Hotel 

Conrad International Hong 

Kong 

Cosmopolitan Hotel 

Courtyard By Marriott Hong 

Kong 

Crowne Plaza HK CWB 

Hotel 

Eaton Hotel Hong Kong 

Eaton House 

Excelsior Hotel 

Grand Hyatt Hong Kong 

Harbour Grand Hong Kong 

Harbour Grand Kowloon 

Harbour Plaza North Point 

Holiday Inn Golden Mile 

Hong Kong Gold Coast Hotel 

Hong Kong Marriott Hotel 

Hotel Icon 

Hotel Jen 

Hotel LKF by Rhombus 

Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, 

Tsim Sha Tsui 

InterContinental Grand 

Standford 

InterContinental Hong Kong 

Island Shangri-La, Hong 

Kong 

JW Marriott Hotel Hong 

Kong 

Kowloon Shangri-La 

Lan Kwai Fong Hotel 

Langham Place, Mongkok, 

HK 

Lanson Place Hotel 

Le Meridien Cyberport 

L'hotel Island South 

Luk Kwok Hotel 

Mandarin Oriental 

Peninsula Hong Kong 

Regal Airport Hotel 

Regal Hong Kong Hotel 

Regal Hotels International 

Regal Kowloon Hotel 

Renaissance Harbour View 

Hotel, Hong Kong 

Rosedale on the Park HK 

Royal Garden Hotel 

Royal Pacific Hotel & 

Towers 

Royal Plaza Hotel 

Sheraton Hong Kong Hotel 

& Towers 

SkyCity Marriott Hotel 

The Kowloon Hotel 

The Landmark Mandarin 

Oriental 

The Luxe Manor 

The Park Lane Hong Kong 

The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong 

AIRLINE LOUNGES 

CNAC Lounge 

Dynasty Lounge 

Emirate Lounge 

Emirates Airlines-BKK 

Lounge 

Hong Kong Lounge 

Morning Calm ( Korean Air) 

Red Carpet Lounge (UA) 

Royal Orchid Lounge 

SQ Lounge (Silver Kris) 

The Traveller's Lounge 

EAST 

The Traveller's Lounge 

WEST 

Virgin Clubhouse 

Hong Kong Jet 

Jet Aviation Buisness Jets 

Metrojet Limited 

BAA - Business Aviation 

Asia Ltd 

VANGO 

Wanchai 

North Point 

Ho Man Tin 

Kwun Tong 

Lok Fu 

Shatin 

Tin Shui Wai 

Kwai Chung 

Chai Wan 

Kwun Tong 

TST 

Saigon 

Tuen Mun 

Happy Vally 

Lok Fu 

Tai Kok Tsui 

Tin Shui Wai 

Yuen Long 

Tai Po 

BOOKSHOPS 

Mandarin Oriental Kiosk 

Bookazine (Discover Bay, 

Canton House, Ifc Mall, 

Harbor City, Kowloon, 

Prince Building, Central, 

Shui On) 

Dymocks (Peak, Ifc Mall, 

Lyndhurst Terrace, 

Harbor City, Kowloon, 

Bonham Road, Repulse 

Bay, Hopewell Centre, 

Citygate) 

Beachside Books 

Hits Media Center 

Kubrick Bookstore & Cafe 

Metrobook (Elements, 

Kowloon, Mikki, Langham 

Place) 

Nobletimes 

Jumbo Grade (City Plaza, 

Pacific Place, Admiralty, 

Wong Tai Sin) 

Swindon Book Co. Ltd. 

Cham Kee 

Tung Son 

Yung Kee 

Great Food 

Park N' Shop (Baguia 

Villa, Caine Road, Caribbean 

Coast, Citygate, 

Clearwater, Cyberport, 

East Point City, Forview 

Heights, Festival Walk, 

Happy Valley, Hong 

Lok Yuen, Horizon 

Suite Hotel, Jardine 

Lookout, Kennedy Town, 

Metroplaza, Metropolis, 

New Hopewell Centre, 

Peak Road, Shouson Hill, 

South Horizons, Stanley 

Plaza, Tai Tam, Tin Hau 

Temple) 

MACAU 

HOTELS 

Altira Macau 

Crown Tower 

Galaxy Macau 

Galaxy Macau - Banyan 

Tree Macau 

Galaxy Macau - Hotel Okura 

Grand Hyatt 

Grand Lapa 

Grand Lisboa 

Hard Rock Hotel 

Hotel Lisboa 

Hotel San Tiago 

Mandarin Oriental 

MGM Macau 

Pousada de Mong-Ha, IFT 

Sands Cotai Central 

Sofitel Macau 

StarWorld Hotel 

Wynn Macau 

RESTAURANTS 

11 Cafe 

360° Café 

A Lorcha 

A Petisqueira 

ABA Bar 

Albergue 1601 

Antica Trattoria 

Antonio Restaurant 

Aurora 

Aux Beaux Arts 

Bambu 

Bar Azul 

Bar Florian 

Beijing Kitchen 

Belcanção 

Belon 

Bene 

Cabana 

Café Bela Vista 

Café Deco 

Café Lan 

Café Litoral 

Café of 4 

Cafe Ou Mun 

Café Panorama 

Café Siam 

Camoes Restaurant 

Cascades 

China Rouge 

City Café 

Clube Militar de Macau 

Conrad the Lounge 

Copa Steakhouse 

Cozinha Pinocchio Taipa 

Cuppacoffee Bakery and 

Coffeeshop 

Don Quijote 

Dynasty 8 

EDO Japanese @ One 

Central 

Edo Japanese Restaurant 

Edo Japanese Restaurant 

EDO Japanese Restaurant 

EDO Japanese Restaurant 

COD 

Edo Restautant 

Festiva 

Fogosamba 

Fortune Inn Restaurant 

Ginza Kaiten Sushi 

Golden Court 

Gosto 

Grand Emperor Court 

Grand Imperial Court 

Henri's Gallery 

Hero Chinese Restaurant 

Holiday Inn Lobby Lounge 

Illy Coffee 

Imperial Court 

Inagiku 

Indian Garden Restaurant 

Irish Bar 

Jade Dragon 

Jade Garden 

Jin Yue Xuan 

Kam Lai Heen 

King of Kings 

Kira 

Kwun Hoi Heen 

L'Arc Coffee Shop 

L'Arc Lounge 

L'Arc The Chinese Restaurant 

La Bonne Keure French 

Cuisine 

La Cucina 

La Gondola 

La Kaffa Café 

La Paloma 

Lan 

Laurel 

Laurel 

Lax Café 

Le Cesar 

Lei Garden 

Lemongrass Macau Thai 

Café 

Litoral Restaurant 

Lord's Stow Bakery 

Lua Azul 

Macallan 

Macau Dynasty Café 

Madeira Portuguese 

Majestic Robatayaki 

McSorley's 

Mezza 9 

MGM Patisserie MGM 

Mistral 

MJ Café 

MO Lobby Lounge + Cake 

Shop 

Modern Thai 

Morton's Steakhouse 

Mugs Talk 

Myung Ga Korean Restaurant 

Naam Thai 

Nagomi 

O Porto Interior Restaurante 

Old Shanghai 

Old Taipa Tavern 

Osgatos 

Pacific Coffee 

Pacific Coffee COD 

Pacific Coffee Galaxy 

Pacific Coffee SCC 

Pak Lok 

Palms 

Pâtisserie, Lobby Lounge 

Pearl Lounge 

Petrus 

Pink Grill 

Pizzeria Toscana 

Prive 

R Bar 

Rendezvous 

Restaurante Fernando 

Rossio 

Royal Orchid 

Saffron 

Sakazuki 

Savory Crab 

Shanghainese 456 

Singing Bean 

Sky 21 

Spice Garden 

Square 8 

Starworld Concierge 

Starworld Lobby VIP lounge 

Talay Thai Restaurant 

Tang's Cuisine 

Tenmasa 

Terrace 

Terrazza 

The Crystal Piano 

The Feast 

The Hotness 

The Roadhouse 

The Royal Kitchen 

The Tasting Room by Galliot 

Treasure Palace 

Tsui Wah 

Varanda 

Vasco 

Vergnano Italian 

Vida Rica Bar 

Vida Rica Restaurant 

Wave 

Westin The Lounge 

Windows Restaurant 

Windsor Lounge 

Xin 

Yamazato 

Ying 

Zi Yat Heen 

CLUBHOUSES 

Airport Priority pass lounge 

Caesars Golf Macau 

FIT Club 

French Wine Institute 

Kings Ville 

La Baie du Noble 

La Cite 

Lake View Tower 

L'Arc 

Macau Jockey Club 

Manhattan 

Mariott Vacation Club Asia 

Pacific 

Millennium 

Nova City 

Ocean Garden Clubhouse 

One Central 

The Buckingham 

The Pacifica Garden 

The Praia 

The Residencia 

TIS The International School 

of Macao 

Macau Golf & Country Club 

Qube - Venetian 

Qube - Sands Cotai Central 

PRIVATE BANKING 

Bank of China BOC 

BNU 

ICBC 

Wing Hang Bank - Elite 

Banking 

GOURMET SHOP & 

WINE SHOP 

Akasaka Ibéricos 

Fu Wan Commercial and 

Industrial Enterprise ltd. 

Gourmet Corner 

Jointek Macau Shop 

MBL 

Pacific Wine Mart 

Prestige Jewelry & Gift 

SPAS 

Grand Lapa Spa 

Six Senses Spa 

MO The Spa 

Royal Thai Spa 

Malo Clinic Spa 

Four Seasons Spa 

Bodhi Spa 

Altira Spa 

Banyan Tree Spa 

Rock Spa 

Isala Spa 

Crown the Spa 

TRANSIT 

Air Macau 

Jet Asia 

Macau Jet 

Burgeon Rent a car 

Avis 

Turbojet 

Xunlong 

154 



ABA Bar 

MGM Grand Macau, Avenida Dr 

Sun Yat Sen, Nape, Macau 

澳门外港新填海区孙逸仙大马路 

澳门美高梅酒店 

q +853 8802 2319 

Tue to Sun: 7:00–2:00 

Bombay Dreams 

5 Indian 

4/F, 77 Wyndham Street, Central, 

Hong Kong 

香港中环云咸街 77 号嘉兆商业大 

厦 4 楼 

q +852 2971 0001 

Mon to Sun. 12:00 – 15:00 16:00 – 

11:00 

Café Bela Vista 荟景阁 

5 International 

2/F Grand Lapa, 956-1110 

Avenida Da Amizade, Macau 

澳门友谊大马路 956-1110 号金丽 

华酒店 2 楼 

q +853 8793 3871 

06:30 – 22:00 Daily 

Mon to Thu , 15:00 – 18:00 closed 

Cascades 水帘 

5 Bars and Lounges 

Shop G03&G05, Galaxy Macau, 

Estr. Da Baia De Ns. Da Esperanca, 

COTAI , Coloane-Taipa 

澳门路氹望德圣母湾大马路澳门 

银河酒店地下 G03&G05 号铺 

q +853 8883 2221 

Chachawan 

5 Thai 

206 Hollywood Road, Sheung 

Wan, Hong Kong 

香港上环荷里活道 206 号 

q +852 2549 0020 

Tue to Sun, 12:00–15:00, 

18:30–00:00 

Chôm Chôm 

5 Vietnamese 

G/F Block A, No. 58-60 Peel 

Street, Central, Hong Kong 

香港中环 58-60 号卑利街地下 16A 

伊利近街交界 

q +852 2810 0850 

Mon to Fri : open from 18:00 

Sat, Sun & PH : from 16:00 

COVA Caffè – Ristorante 

Lee Gardens 

Shop 101-3, 1/F., Lee Gardens, 33 

Hysan Avenue, Causeway Bay, 

Hong Kong 

香港铜锣湾希慎道 33 号利园商场 

一期 1 楼 101-103 号铺 

q +852 2907 3399 

RESTAURANT LISTINGS 

FEATURED IN THIS ISSUE 

Pacific Place 

Level 3, Pacific Place, 88 

Queensway,Hong Kong 

香港岛金钟道 88 号太古广场 3 楼 

q +852 2918 9660 

Harbour City 

Shop G315, G/F., Gateway Arcade, 

Harbour City, Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong 

Kong 

香港尖沙咀广东道 17 号海港城港 

威商场地下 G315 号铺 

q +852 2907 3882 

Festival Walk 

Shop LG1-10 & 11, Festival Walk, 

80 Tat Chee Avenue, Kowloon 

Tong, Hong Kong 

香港九龙塘达之路 80 号又一城 LG1 

层 11 号铺 

q +852 2265 8688 

Eyebar 

30/F, iSquare, 63 Nathan Rd., 

Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong 

香港尖沙咀弥敦道 63 号 iSQUARE 国 

际广场国际广场 30 楼 3001 号铺 

q +852 2487 3988 

Sun-Thurs: 19:30-09:00 

Fri & Sat: 19:30-10:00 

Gosto 葡轩 

5 Portuguese 

G21, G/F, East Promenade, Galaxy 

Macau, COTAI, Macau 

澳门路氹城「」综合 

渡假城购物大道东地下 G21 号铺 

q +853 8883 2221 

Mon to Fri, 12:00 – 15:00 

6:00pm –11:00pm 

Sat, Sun & PH, 12:00 – 23:00 

He Jiang 合江小镇 

5 Sichuan 

1/F, Cosmopolitan Hotel Hong 

Kong, 387-397 Queen’s Road 

East, Wan Chai, Hong Kong 

香港湾仔皇后大道东 387-397 号丽 

都酒店 1 楼 

q +852 3167 7833 

Daily, 18:30–10:30, 12:00 -23:00 

The Kitchen 大厨 

5 Steak House 

3/F Grand Lisboa, 

Avenida de Lisboa, Macau 

澳门葡京路新葡京酒店 3 楼 

q +853 8803 7777 

Mon to Sun: 12:00–14:30, 

18:30–22:30 

Private Dining Rooms 

37F, Grand Club Tower, 

Grand Hyatt Macau at City of 

Dreams, Estrada do Istmo, Cotai, 

Macau 

澳门路氹连贯公路新濠天地澳门 

君悦酒店嘉宾轩楼三十七楼 

q +853 8868 1234 

Private dining room I & III: minimum 

charge $15,000 plus 10% 

service charge; 

Private dining room II: minimum 

charge $12,000 plus 10% service 

charge 

Menu price from $1,500 +10% 

service charge per person 

贵宾房壹 & 叁 I & III: 最低收费为澳 

门币 15,000, 另加收 10% 服务费 . 

贵宾房贰 : 最低收费为澳门币 

12,000, 另加收 10% 的服务费 . 

菜单价格每位为澳门币 1,500 起 , 

另加收 10% 服务费 

Saffron 尚坊 

5 Thai 

G/F Banyan Tree Macau, Avenida 

Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai 

澳门路氹莲花海滨大马路澳门悦 

榕庄地下 G40 

q +853 8883 6061 

Mon to Sun: 12:00–15:00, 

18:00–23:00 

The Tasting Room 御膳房 

5 European 

3/F Crown Towers, City of 

Dreams, Estrada Do Istmo, Cotai, 

Macau 澳门路氹连贯公路新濠天 

地皇冠酒店 3 楼 

q +853 8868 6681 

Mon to Sun: 12:00–15:00, 

18:00–23:00 

Terrazza 庭园意大利餐厅 

5 Italian 

201, 2/F Galaxy Hotel, Estrada 

da Baia de Nossa Senhora da 

Esperenca, Cotai, Macau 

澳门路氹望德圣母湾大马路澳门 

银河酒店 2 楼 201 号铺 

q +853 8883 2221 

Varq 

5 Indian 

1 Mansingh Road, The Taj Mahal 

Hotel, New Delhi 110001, India 

q +91-11-2302-6162 

Mon to Sun: 12:30 – 14:30, 

19:00 – 23:30 

Yamazato 山里 

5 Japanese/Kaiseki 

Shop 200, 2/F Hotel Okura 

Macau, Galaxy Macau, COTAI, 

Coloane-Taipa, Macau 

澳门路氹城「」综合 

渡假城澳门大仓酒店 2 楼 200 号铺 

q +853 8883 5127 

Tue to Sun: 12:00 – 22:30 

SPONSORED 

HOTEL OKURA MACAU 

澳门大仓酒店 

Hotel Okura Macau, 

Galaxy Macau , COTAI, Macau 

澳門大倉酒店「」 

綜合渡假城澳門路氹城 

www.hotelokuramacau.com 

The Crystal Piano 水晶钢琴 

5 Bar & Lounge 

28/F 

q +853 8883 5109 

18:00–02:00 Closed Wed 

MOP 60 and up 

A Smart Casual 

H www.hotelokuramacau.com 

Sakazuki Sake Bar 清酒 

5 Sake Bar 

2/F 

q +853 8883 5125 

16:00–24:00 Tues–Sun 

MOP 60 and up 

A Smart Casual 


Yamazato 山里裡 

5 Japanese/Kaiseki 

2/F 

q +853 8883 5127 

12:00–22:30 Tues–Sun 

MOP 300 and up 

A Casual Chic 


Terrace Restaurant 和庭餐厅廳 

5 International 

2/F 

q +853 8883 5122 & 8883 5126 

07:00–24:00 

MOP 100 and up 

A Resort Casual 


NEW YEAR’S EVE 

COUNTDOWN PARTY 

狂歡除夕倒數派對 

31/12/2013 

@ 1/F GARDEN MARQUEE & LAWN 花園天幕 / 天幕草坪 

COME AND JOIN THE PARTY AT THE WESTIN RESORT MACAU AS WE SAY 

FAREWELL TO 2013 AND WELCOME IN THE NEW YEAR 2014. 

來參與澳門威斯汀度假酒店的跨年倒數派對 , 以最熾熱的氣氛迎接新一年 ! 

10PM TILL 4AM 

PARTYLICIOUS PACK 狂歡套票 

ENTRANCE & FREE FLOW OF WINES, BEERS, COCKTAILS, WHISKEY, VODKA, 

CHILLED JUICES, SOFTDRINKS, SNACK BUFFET & 1 GLASS OF CHAMPAGNE 

當晚入場包無限量享用紅酒、白酒、啤酒、雞尾酒、威士忌、伏特加、果汁、汽水、小食自助餐及香檳一杯 

EARLY-BIRD PURCHASE BEFORE 25/12 

12 月 25 日前預購 

$488 

per person/ 每位 

PURCHASE DURING 25 - 31/12 

12 月 25 至 31 日預購 

$688 


members of CLUB WESTIN, EDM & ILCM has the previlige to use 

the early bird price of $488 until Dec 31, 2013. 

威斯汀康體部、EDM 及 ILCM 會員可由即日起至 12 月 31 日 , 以優惠價 $488 購買 ” 狂歡套票 ” 

CASUAL PACK 即玩套票 

PURCHASE on 31/12 

12 月 31 日購買 

晚上 10 時至凌晨 4 時 

ENTRANCE & 1 GLASS OF CHAMPAGNE 

當晚入場 ( 包香檳一杯 ) 

$288 


GUEST DJ’S ROCKIN’ THE SHOW: 

鑽石 DJ 陣容 : 

• DJ DEVLAR 

• JORGE VALE 

• SLIM BUDDAH 

• JIMBROWSKI 

• DJ VJ 

COMPLIMENTARY PARTY SHUTTLE AVAILABLE (FIXED SCHEDULE APPLIES) 

免費派對穿梭巴士接送 ( 適用於固定班數 ) 

COMPLIMENTARY ‘CASUAL PACK’ WILL BE GIVEN TO ALL DINING GUESTS 

WHO ORDERED FROM THE FESTIVE DINNER MENUS (one pack per guest) 

每位除夕夜用餐客人均可獲贈 “ 即玩套票 ” 一份 

FOR ENQUIRIES OR RESERVATIONS, PLEASE CALL 853.8899.1020 

OR VISIT OUR WEBSITE AT WESTIN.COM/MACAU 

如欲查詢或預購 , 請致電 853.8899.1020 或登入 WESTIN.COM/MACAU 

All prices are in MOP nett 以上價目為澳門幣凈價 

Activities schedule and venue are subject to change without prior notice 活動如有更改 , 恕不另行通知 

EVENT ORGANIZER 主辦單位 : SPONSORED BY 贊助單位 : 

156 

| TK | flavor dna

SUBSCRIBE 

25% off 

$336 $252 for your first 6 issues 

Tasting Kitchen is a celebration of the Pearl River Delta’s 

finest restaurants, greatest chefs and most delicious food. 

Our mission is simple: to share our enthusiasm for 

all the great culinary experiences the region has to offer. 

Rate applicable to Hong Kong and Macau delivery only. Inquiries regarding 

overseas subscriptions should be sent to subscriptions@tasting-kitchen.com 

C 

M 

Y 

CM 

contact information 

name 

MY 

CY 

CMY 

K 

address 

postal code 

company name 

phone 

email 

country 

title 

fax 

Kindly return the 

completed form to: 

Fax +852 2642 0009 

Mail 

Tasting Kitchen 

Attention: Terrie Lam 

7A, 22/F, Kodak House II 

39 Healthy East Street 

Quarry Bay, Hong Kong 

Please make checks payable 

to “Tasting Kitchen Ltd.” 

Tel +852 2642 0008

dessert 

Dangerously delicious and fragrant, this Mumbaitini was mixed at Varq Restaurant at The Taj Mahal 

Hotel in New Delhi, India. Fierce vodka is made fresh and light with lime, ginger and pounded 

curry leaves. Innocent enough to serve as an apéritif, assertive enough to accompany a meal, 

and lightly sweet enough to linger over after dinner, it’s a perfect cocktail of spirits and spices. 

新德里泰姬玛哈酒店「Varq」印度餐厅推出孟买马丁尼 , 清冽香醇 , 神秘诱人。以强烈的伏特 

加为基底 , 加上清爽新鲜的莱姆、姜与捣碎的咖喱叶 , 既是纯真清新的开胃酒 , 也是浓郁馨香 

的佐餐酒 , 微甜的口感更是餐后小酌的最佳选择。孟买马丁尼是烈酒与香料的完美组合。 

160 

| TK | flavor dna

ROSÉ VINTAGE 2003 

A LIMITED EDITION BY JEFF KOONS 

ENJOY RESPONSIBLY - DOMPERIGNON.COM

TK10 Flavor DNA

Create successful ePaper yourself

Delete template?

Save as template?