TK6 JOY OF PASTRY Mar2013.pdf

tasting kitchen #6 • mar 2013 

Tin Hua No Limits 创意无限 

CenTral Written in the Stars 星级料理 

MaCau The Joy of Pastry 乐在烘焙 

HKD40 | MOP40 | RMB42 | NTD180 | SGD8 | USD6 | £4

4 

| TASTING KITCHEN | march 2013 

starter 

Chef Boulanger Norihiko Takei makes these wonderfully light and flaky layered pastries at Le Salon de 

Thé de Joël Robuchon. Topped with a layer of almond paste, decorated with toasted flaked almonds and 

dusted with icing sugar, they conceal a center of dark, bitter chocolate and softly fragrant banana. 

Le Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon Chef Boulanger (面包烘焙师) 武井周彦(Norihiko Takei)制作的巧克力面包酥, 

十分轻软。内馅为黑苦巧克力、软绵芳香的香蕉,最上面涂抹杏仁酱,饰以烘烤片状杏仁及糖霜。 

TasTe Culture 

Nowhere on earth are great wines more refreshing, 

or refreshing wines more distinctively delicious. 

www.austrianwine.com

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14 

16 

contents 

TASTING NEWS 10-13 

Clown Cakes 14 • Love at First Sip 16 • Perfect Balance 18 • Written in the Stars 20 • The Happiness of Kafka 24 

The Sweet Life 26 • Free Spirit 30 • Cold Hands, Warm Heart 32 • The Man in the Mira 34 • No Limits 36 

The Joy of Pastry 42 • Jasmine Tea Chocolate Tropézienne 52 • Cake Karma 56 • Discreet Delight 60 • The Way of Merlot 62 

18 

26 

52 


R ESTAu RANT LISTINGS 66 • WhERE T o fINd TK 70 • dESSERT 72 

30/32 

56 

34 

20 

60 

62 

42 

24 

36

tasting news 

美味加倍佳 

Double the 

Pleasure 

To complement the premium cheese, 

bread and wine which they’re known for, 

Classified has begun offering a new lineup 

of pastries at each of its Hong Kong cafes. 

There are new sweet and savory choices 

to tempt every taste bud: butter croissants, 

pain aux raisins, apricot Danish, and 

matchstick-thin chocolate allumettes. Brittany 

butter and hand-picked berries are 

some of the quality ingredients that the 

Classified bakers transform into delicious 

pastry pleasure. If the expanded selection 

makes choosing difficult, start with a 

classic raspberry and custard Danish, and 

go from there. 

为搭配店内著名的顶级芝士、面包与美酒, 

Classified 已在香港各分店推出一系列甜 

点,包括奶油牛角包、欧式葡萄面包、杏 

桃丹麦酥等等来满足您的味蕾。Classified 

的烘焙师傅向来擅长将高级食材转化为美 

味甜点,如果选择太多让您眼花撩乱,建 

议您先尝经典的覆盆子卡士达丹麦酥吧。 

The Coffee Academïcs 

No. 38, Yiu Wa Street, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 

香港铜锣湾耀华街 38 号地下 

q +852 2156 0313 

10 


Classified 

Shop 1, G/F, 108 Hollywood Road, Sheung Wan, Hong Kong 

香港上环苏豪荷李活道 108 号地下 

q +852 2525 3454 

香港的流言「啡」语 

Buzzed in Hong Kong 

The people behind Hong Kong’s popular caffé Habitū have recently 

opened Coffee Academïcs. Don’t be put off by that odd, umlauted 

“i” – the pleasures at the flagship café in Causeway Bay are 

straightforward, and addictive: great fresh-roasted coffee; an open, 

spacious interior with high ceilings and beautiful brick walls; and a 

happening, coffee-junkies vibe. 

在香港大红大紫的 caffè HABITU 最近在铜锣湾开设了咖啡概念品 

牌 The Coffee Academïcs 旗舰店。这里的顶级新鲜烘焙咖啡将为 

您带来令人难以自拔的愉悦体验!店内宽敞开放,高挑的天花板 

与美丽的红砖墙,来这里当个最时尚的咖啡瘾君子吧。 

东西交融新滋味 

East West 

Sweets 

With his East-meets-West treats, Chef 

Kelvin Lai has brought pastry fame to 

the Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin. 

Mixing Chinese ingredients into typically 

Western dishes, Lai’s dishes include 

Chinese preserved bean curd cheesecake, 

caramelized walnut sesame rolls with 

plum sauce, and kumquat crème brûlée. 

His creativity, artistry and attention to 

detail ensure that the pastries served at 

Sha Tin 18 are as delicious and beautiful 

as they are inventive. 

香港沙田凯悦酒店饼房行政主厨赖耀辉师 

傅融合东方与西方食材,将甜点带至前所 

未有的崭新境界。赖师傅在经典西式料理 

里使用中式食材的作品众多,包括腐乳芝 

Mango Delight 

芒果蛋糕 

Sha Tin 18 沙田 18 

4/F, Hyatt Regency Hong Kong, Sha Tin 

18 Chak Cheung Street, Sha Tin, New Territories, Hong Kong 

香港新界沙田泽祥街 18 号香港沙田凯悦酒店 4 楼 

士蛋糕、核桃芝麻卷黄梅汁及柑橘法式炖 

蛋。他的创意性、艺术性与对细节一丝不 

苟的坚持,让沙田 18 的糕点永远新颖、美 

味、令人惊艳。 

糕饼界之星 

Happy Marriage 

Pastry Gems is aptly named: this new gem of a 

pastry shop, located in the lobby of The Ritz-Carlton, 

Hong Kong, features the gorgeously realized cakes, 

pastries, chocolates and viennoiserie of Executive 

Pastry Chef Richard Long and his team. “A good 

dessert should have three elements,” says Richard. 

“Temperature, texture and flavor. The beauty of 

pastry is the marriage of these things.” In Chef 

Long’s desserts, the marriage of these elements is a 

beautiful, deeply happy one. 

Pastry Gems 店如其名。这颗糕饼界的闪亮新星,位 

于香港丽思卡尔顿酒店大堂,由行政糕点总厨骆育文 

带领他的专业团队,精心烹调一系列精致的蛋糕、面 

包、巧克力与点心。骆师傅说 :「好的糕点必须具备 

三要素 :温度、质感、风味,缺一不可。」骆师傅出 

品的糕点既窝心又美观,果真名不虚传。 

Pastry Gems 

9F, The Ritz-Carlton, Hong Kong, International Commerce 

Centre, 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon, Hong Kong 

香港九龙柯士甸道西 1 号环球贸易广场 , 

香港丽思卡尔顿酒店 9 楼 

march 2013 | TASTING KITCHEN | 11

inspired living 

小丑蛋糕架 

clown cakes 

Alessi’s whimsical “Fatman” folding cake stand is a delightful table piece 

In the 1960s, folding cake stands were 

one of Alessi’s best-selling categories. 

“Then we lost it,” says Managing Director 

Alessio Alessi. After falling out of fashion, 

cake stands were removed from the 

Alessi catalog from the 70s onwards. 

Now they are back, and Alessi has 

retaken the territory in typically playful 

style. With his interpretation of the 

company’s famous “art.898” cake stand 

from the 60s, Dutch designer Marcel 

14 


H www.Alessi.com 

Wanders has found a delightful way to 

express his fascination with the circus and 

its performers. 

Tubby and round when viewed head 

on, the folded Fatman looks flat and 

skinny when seen from the side, an effect 

reminiscent of funhouse mirrors. And 

then a turn of the clown’s ruffle opens the 

multiple tiers of the cake stand and sets 

the stage for the true stars of the show – 

the pastries. 

1960 年代,折叠蛋糕架曾是 Alessi 数一数 

二的畅销商品,但过没多久便不再流行。 

就像营运长 Alessio Alessi 说的 :「然后就 

销声匿迹了。」自 70 年代起,Alessi 产品 

目录上就未再出现蛋糕架的踪迹。 

最近 Alessi 重回这个曾经熟悉的领域, 

推出玩心十足的全新设计,宣告艺术蛋糕 

架重回市场。荷兰设计师 Marcel Wanders 

融入自己热爱的马戏团及马戏表演者元素, 

重新演绎 60 年代经典「art. 898」设计系 

列蛋糕架,打造「Fatman」致敬版。 

「Fatman」折合时正面看来浑圆可爱, 

侧看细薄一片,有种照着游乐园哈哈镜的 

童趣。打开小丑皱折领口时则会出现多层 

蛋糕架,可与餐桌上的主角「糕点」相互 

映衬。 

SAVOR THE PERFECT COMBINATION OF WEST AND 

EAST THROUGH SING YIN FOIE GRAS SETS 

Blend France’s rich tastes with a pinch of Chinese flavors! From 

now to April 30, take pleasure in hearty recipes of Foie Gras from 

all around the world at Sing Yin Cantonese Dining with unique 

touches of Chef Bryan Lee. Highlights include Baked Conch 

Stuffed with Bulgarian Foie Gras and Mild Curry Fragrance and 

Marinated Cantonese five spice Elsass Foie Gras. 

Reservations and enquiries: 

contact singyin.hk@whotels.com / 3717 2848 

1/F, W Hong Kong, 1 Austin Road West, Kowloon Station, Kowloon

Coffee romantics sometimes 

resist the idea of drinking 

java made by a capsuleeating 

coffee robot. That is, 

until they’ve met Nespresso’s 

passion red Lattissima+. 

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The seduction happens fast. Nespresso’s 

Lattissima+ is a compact, sexily designed 

machine. A tempting selection of greensourced 

coffee blends are available, all 

kept fresh in conveniently color-coded, 

vacuum-sealed capsules. Slip one in, 

and at the touch of a single button the 

Lattissima+ brews a cup of espresso, 

cappuccino, latte macchiato, or lungo, 

laying down blankets of milk with velvety 

froth that would make a barista proud. All 

that takes about one minute. Have a sip 

(but not if you’re afraid of commitment). 

If you haven’t already succumbed, you 

will now. 

一饮钟情 

love at 

first sip 

Lattissima+ 胶囊咖啡机一用就上手,是一 

款设计精美、一体成形的咖啡机,并提供 

多款有机咖啡豆混合而成的口味。所有不 

同颜色的咖啡胶囊一律真空包装。放一颗 

进去,再按下按键,一杯杯盖着丝绒般奶 

泡的意式浓缩咖啡、卡布奇诺、拿铁或淡 

式意式咖啡就完成了,完美程度就连专业 

咖啡师也会为之赞叹。这一切只需一分钟 

就能办到。只要你不怕从此爱上它 , 啜一 

口吧 ! 假如你还没领略过 Lattissima+ 的魅 

力,现在正是时候。 

H www.nespresso.com 

inspired living

Sponsored 

Sponsored 

Feature 

Feature 

Saffron Chef de Cuisine 

Gina Pungjaroenkijkul 

完美平衡点 

perfect balance 

Banyan Tree Macau’s Saffron strikes a satisfying balance with classic and contemporary Thai cuisine 

For SaFFron’S CheF de CuiSine, Gina 

Pungjaroenkijkul, life is all about balance. 

Forget work-life balance, because that’s 

out of the question for any chef de cuisine 

worth her salt. And Chef Gina is definitely 

worth her salt – and her sugar, and her 

lime juice, and her chilies too. What she 

really means is the careful balance of fundamental 

flavors and aromas that define 

Thai cuisine. 

“Balance makes a dish tastier,” she 

explains. “In a salad, we have three flavors 

in the sauce. The first must be sour, 

followed by salty and sweet. For curry, a 

little salty and not too sweet. In tom yum, 

we mix sour and salty, not too sweet – the 

18 


sweetness comes from the prawns.” 

Chef Gina’s expertise derives from a 

deep understanding of her ingredients – 

how the tiger prawns in Saffron’s signature 

tom yum goong differ, for example, from 

the river prawns in the tom yum goong mae 

nam – and her ability to make incremental 

adjustments to accommodate the nuanced 

differences they bring in flavor, aroma and 

color. 

With Saffron’s new Crustacean Promotion 

menu, which is available all through 

March, Chef Gina balances familiar 

favorites with inventive new dishes she 

is eager to introduce to diners. The menu 

starts with the restaurant’s ever popular 

seafood platter on ice: sea whelk, cherry 

stone clams, New Zealand mussels, and 

Hokkaido scallops. Among the choices for 

the main course are a rich, wok-fried lobster 

with oyster sauce, and one of Chef 

Gina’s creative original dishes: a mussels 

and pineapple curry with Kaffir lime, served 

in half a pineapple shell. 

“Our curry starts with fresh ingredients. 

And then we have to take time to cook and 

reduce it. Only when you take enough time 

can the flavor come out,” she says. “I want 

people to try this dish!” 

If Chef Gina is recommending it, expect 

a lively, delicious and perfectly balanced 

medley of flavors. 

Seafood platter of 

sea whelk, cherry 

stone clams, New 

Zealand mussels, and 

Hokkaido scallops 

有海螺、石蛤、新西 

兰青口、及北海道扇 

贝的海皇拼盘 

对「尚坊」的厨师长 Gina Pungjaroenkijkul 

而言,生活在于平衡。然而工作和生活间 

的平衡却另当别论,因为这对任何称职的 

厨师长而言是可望不可及。Gina 不仅称职, 

她精湛的厨艺更完美呈现出泰式料理酸、 

甜、辣多层次的味道。她认为平衡就是泰 

式料理的基本味道和各式香草细腻微妙的 

平衡感。 

她解释道 :「平衡感让一道菜更美味。 

泰式色拉的淋酱有三种味道 : 首先是酸味, 

然后是咸味和甜味。咖喱要略咸,不能太 

甜。酸辣汤则融合了酸味和咸味,也不能 

太甜。甜味完全来自鲜虾的自然甘甜。」 

Gina 的厨艺专长源自对所用食材深 

刻的了解 – 例如该餐厅的招牌菜鲜虾酸辣 

汤中所用的虎虾,就不同于湄南酸辣汤中 

 

所用的河虾 – 以及依照食材在色香味上所 

带来的细微差别增减用量的能力。 

随着该餐厅新推出了三月份贝壳类 

海鲜当季菜单,Gina 的新创菜色中包括 

用最受欢迎的水产烹调出鲜美平衡的口 

味。菜单的前菜是该餐厅一直广受欢迎 

的海鲜拼盘 :有海螺、石蛤、新西兰青 

口、及北海道扇贝。主菜的选择包括浓 

郁的蚝油锅炒龙虾和 Gina 的一道原创 

料理 :盛在切半挖空菠萝内的菠萝咖喱 

烩青口。 

她表示 :「我们的咖喱用新鲜食材细 

熬慢炖到浓缩入味。炖煮的时间一定要够 

久,味道才会出来。希望客人能够试试这 

道菜!」如果是厨师长 Gina 推荐的菜色, 

滋味绝对会丰富、和谐而鲜美! 

New Zealand mussels with 

traditional pineapple curry 

菠萝咖喱烩青口 

Wok-fried lobster with cashews, 

sweet chili paste and oyster sauce 

酱爆龙虾 

Saffron 尚坊 

G/F, Banyan Tree Macau, Galaxy Macau, 

Avenida Marginal Flor de Lotus, Cotai, 

Coloane-Taipa 路氹蓮花海濱大馬路澳門 

悅榕莊地下 G40 

5 Thai 

q +853 8883 6061 

12:00-15:00; 18:00-23:00 

MOP 151- 300 

A Casual 


Vincent thierry had just completed a twoyear 

apprenticeship in the south of France 

and was looking for a permanent position. 

His older brother, already a chef in Paris, 

handed him a book full of restaurant names 

and addresses to use as a reference. It was a 

Michelin Guide. Vincent sent out a wave of 

letters, mostly to two- and three-star restaurants, 

though at the time, he says, “I didn’t 

even know what that meant.” 

One of the first responses was from 

then three-star Restaurant Taillevent in 

Paris. “That was very important for me.” 

Thriving on the challenge of learning and 

improving, Vincent worked in a series of 

top-notch kitchens. Each move was made 

with purpose. At places ranging from a strict, 

disciplined “yes Chef!” kitchen to a smaller, 

family-run restaurant, Vincent experienced 

different management styles and learned 

new cooking techniques. 

“You have to move to catch style and 

experience from many different chefs. You 

find different techniques. It’s what makes 

you stronger. And that is very important for 

your career,” Vincent explains. “Your bag is 

never full, but when it starts to be full, you 

are ready to try on your own.” 

Years later, Chef Vincent’s resume reads 

like a version of the Michelin Guide he once 

used as a phonebook, and he now helms the 

three-star Caprice, one of the most highly 

regarded French restaurants in the world. 

Vincent’s refined approach emphasizes top 

quality ingredients, taste, innovation and a 

sincere appreciation for the contributions 

made by his team. 

Caprice’s langoustine cannelloni is a 

perfect example. Vincent starts with raw 

shellfish as the central ingredient. “You have 

to push yourself to be creative. It’s art. It’s 

funny – you never know where an idea might 

come from. Sometimes it’s a book I’m reading. 

Or it might be the shape of a pillow I 

see.” 

As he layers in other ingredients, Vincent 

is always thinking about taste. “For me, 

taste is first, and you can’t get great taste 

without great starting products.” He uses 

22 


Bresse pigeon wrapped and baked with 

foie gras, Périgord black truffle, Swiss 

chard and puff pastry, accompanied by 

conchiglioni stuffed with Swiss chard and 

served with S. Pellegrino sparkling water. 

mostly imported, seasonal ingredients: 

imported, to ensure consistency in quality 

and flavor, something smaller local farms 

cannot guarantee in quantity; and seasonal, 

for the freshest possible products. 

“I’m definitely fighting to serve products 

in season. When the season finishes, I 

stop.” 

The presentation of the langoustine 

and salmon as cannelloni, with the delicately 

placed vegetable garnish, is a 

team effort. “Alone, I am nothing,” says 

Vincent. “I can serve six people, maybe. 

But I cannot serve sixty people lunch 

and dinner. It’s nonstop: prepare, send 

to the customer, prepare, send, create. 

Also when you start the decoration, the plate 

needs a lot of small hands.” 

It is this mutual respect between head 

chef and team that has led to a remarkable 

staff retention rate, surely a factor in the 

restaurant’s eight-year success. “Hong Kong 

酥皮乳鸽酿鸭肝伴黑松露菌、再加上 

当中夹有瑞士白菜的大贝壳螺形意大利 

面,搭配意大利圣培露含气矿泉水。 

customers are very tough. They push you to 

be better. If we’re still here, it’s because every 

day we grow as a team.” 

Learn more about San Pellegrino 

at www.jebsenfinewines.com. 

Caprice Chef Vincent Thierry 

当 Vincent Thierry 刚在法国南部结束为期 

两年的餐饮专科,他哥哥已经在巴黎一家 

餐厅当厨师。当时,哥哥给了他一本米其 

林指南,他便照着上头的地址寄出许多封 

应征信,多半是两星或三星的餐厅。 

最先回复的包括巴黎一家三星餐厅 

Taillevent。「收到他们的回复,对我来说意 

义重大。」于是就此经历了他一连串的挑战 

与成长。之后他陆续在几家知名的餐厅中 

历练。他从不盲目换工作,每次跳槽都有 

特定的目的。他待过管理严格的厨房 ( 在 

那里你只能回答 :「是!主厨。」) ;也待过 

像个家庭般温馨的小餐厅,并且从中体验 

不同的管理风格,学会许多新的烹饪技巧。 

Vincent 进一步说明 :「一名厨师必须 

跟其他不同的厨师学习,累积经验,培养 

风格。唯有这样,你才能变得更强,才能 

拓展自己的生涯。」他又说 :「学习是没有 

止尽的,不过当你发现好像已经学得差不 

多时,就表示你可以开始独立了。」 

数年后,许多米其林餐厅都洋洋洒洒列 

在 Vincent 的履历上,跟他当年第一次拿到 

的米其林指南差不多。现在他在全球首屈一 

指的三星级法国餐厅 Caprice 当主厨。重视 

食材质量、着重品味、敢于革新、由衷赏识 

下属的付出,均塑造了他今日的成功。 

香腌三文鱼卷酿螯龙虾就是个极好的 

例子。Vincent 选择生的贝壳类当作主要食 

材。「你得激励自己更有创意,烹饪是门艺 

术。有趣的是,你永远不知道想法是从哪 

冒出来的,可能来自我在读的一本书,也 

可能是因为看到一个枕头的形状。」 

再来是放入其他食材,他对口味十分 

看重 :「若不慎选食材,就不可能做出好味 

道的料理。」为了确保质量及风味不变,他 

大多使用进口最新鲜的当季食材。「我坚持 

只供应当季食物。」 

用龙虾及三文鱼做肉卷,再一一摆放 

蔬菜装饰,要细致完美,便需要通力合作。 

Vincent 说 :「光靠我一人是办不到的。或 

许我可以服务六个客人,但我不可能服务 

六十位午、晚餐的客人。」 

正是主厨与团队之间的互相尊重,人 

员甚少流动,也带来这家餐厅八年的荣景。 

「香港的客人很挑剔,推动着你更臻完美。 

如果我们能长久留在这里,是因为我们的 

团队每天都在进步。」 


tasting notes 

卡夫卡的幸福 

the happiness of kafka 

Local couple bring their love of pastry, 

coffee, and travel home to Macau 

Pastry Chef Nicole Lei 

糕点主厨李润怡 

Moleskine notebooks line the walls 

of Kafka Sweets and Gourmandises, one 

of Macau’s newest and coolest cafes, in 

homage to the Czech author for whom the 

café is named. 

“Kafka is my favorite author,” says coowner 

Jerry Lei. “I spent a lot of time in 

Prague, surrounded by his work. In Macau, 

the name of the street where Kafka is located 

means ‘Prague’ in Chinese – destiny.” 

During a long stay in Europe, while 

barista Jerry was exploring the coffee culture, 

his wife Nicole was perfecting her 

pastry skills at Cordon Bleu. “I fell in love 

with pastry in Paris,” she says. 

Many of Nicole’s pastry creations are 

inspired by the couple’s travels. Her delicious 

and delightfully bright cupcakes all 

have evocative names. The couple loves 

Burgundy wine, so Nicole created “The 

Scent of Burgundy,” which uses green apple 

and blackcurrant to capture the rich flavor 

and aroma of a fine Burgundy. “In the Mood 

of Montmarte” is a memory made of hazelnut 

and crème brûlée. 

“Dessert makes people happy,” says 

Nicole. “And that makes me happy.” 

在一间澳门新颖、时尚且 

为了向捷克作家致敬而命 

名的卡夫卡咖啡厅( Kafka 

Sweets and Gourmandises), 

上半部墙面布满 Moleskine 

笔记本的装饰。 

「卡夫卡是我最喜欢的 

作家,」店主之一的Jerry 

Lei 说。「我在布拉格待了 

很长的时间,沈浸在他的 

作品中。而在澳门的店也 

恰好位于布拉格街上,真 

是命中注定。」 

旅居欧洲的日子里, 

身为咖啡师的 Jerry 钻研咖啡文化, 

而太太 Nicole 则在蓝带国际烹饪学院精进 

制作糕点的技术。她说 :「我在巴黎爱上 

了糕点。」 

许多 Nicole 的糕点创意源自夫妻俩的 

旅行经验。她美味得令人欣喜的杯子蛋糕 

皆取了极富意象的名字。由于夫妻俩热爱 

勃根地红酒,Nicole 便以苹果和黑醋栗呈 

现红酒的风味与香气,创作出一款名为「勃 

根地滋味」的甜点。「蒙马特心情」则是以 

榛果和蛋奶油焦糖来勾勒出他们的回忆。 

「甜点会让人感到幸福,」Nicole 说「也 

会让我感到幸福。」 

Caramel Honey Toast 焦糖蜂蜜吐司 

ABOVE 

Top Row (L-R): Le Petit Prince, Tsujiri, 

and Waltz for Raspberry 

Bottom Row: Sweet Dating, The Scent of 

Burgundy, and In the Mood of Montmartre 

上排(由左至右):小王子、都路理、 

覆盆子圆舞曲 

下排:甜蜜约会、勃根地滋味、蒙马特心情 


26 


甜蜜的糕点人生 

the sweet life 

In addition to his work as Pastry 

Chef at Four Seasons Hotel 

Hong Kong, Grégoire Michaud 

maintains an always curious and 

insightful pastry blog, and is the 

author of a series of engaging 

cookbooks, including one with 

an essential pastry maxim as 

its title: Never Skip Dessert. 

Whether he is cooking, writing 

or talking pastry, the love and 

enthusiasm Chef Grégoire has for 

his work always shines through. 

Tasting Kitchen spoke with him 

recently about the pastry life. 

Grégoire Michaud (闵言乐) 身分 

可多了,除了是香港四季酒店的糕 

点主厨外,也撰写博客,经常在上 

面发表有趣又发人深省的看法, 

还出版了一系列十分有意思的烹 

饪书,其中一本便以一句经典名 

言Never Skip Dessert当作书名, 

中文书名为「法式甜品教室」。 

无论是做甜点、写甜点、或谈甜 

点, Grégoire对工作的热爱总是 

展露无遗。Tasting Kitchen最近前 

去访问他,请他谈谈甜点人生。 

What makes pastry chefs special? Do 

you need a certain kind of personality 

to succeed with pastry? 

I always say pastry chefs are crazy, 

because we always need to think outside 

– never mind the box, but outside of everything. 

Everyday it is challenging, and if you 

don’t have these hints of craziness you will 

always stay stuck in the same area of things 

you do. If you run a restaurant for ten years, 

you need to have a lot of resources in your 

head to keep coming up with new things. 

I think what makes a good pastry chef are 

his vision and principles more than anything 

else. It means you believe in something. You 

follow through and keep true to yourself. 

You need to be extremely passionate. If 

you are not passionate, you might as well 

stay home … because it is too tough. You 

sacrifice a lot of your life, you are here when 

people are enjoying parties, you are working, 

and not many people will invite you to eat at 

their homes because you are a chef – they 

are always scared, so you end up in restaurants. 

The hours are worse than for a savory 

chef: we do breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea 

and then dinner. The dessert is always the 

last thing to go on the dinner table, so we are 

always the last ones here. You see your family 

less than other people, so it’s commitment 

and passion that makes us move. 

kitchen conversations 

你认为甜点师傅有什么与众不同的地方 

吗?是否需要特定的个性才能做好甜点 

呢? 

我常说甜点师傅总有点疯狂,因为我 

们必须跳出框框。每天都是新的挑战,若 

你没有一点疯狂因子的话,你就会一成不 

变。假如你经营一家餐厅达十年之久,你 

脑子里得有源源不绝的想法,才能让餐厅 

推陈出新。我认为优秀的甜点师傅最重要 

的是有远见、有原则,也就是你必须具有 

信念,一以贯之,只做自己认为对的事。 

同时甜点师傅还必须充满热情, 因为 

做甜点真的很辛苦,你得牺牲许多时间, 

大家开心参加派对时,你总是待在厨房 ; 

此外很少人会请你去他家用餐,毕竟你是 

个厨师,他们多少有点忌惮 ; 而且我们比 

一般风味料理的厨师还辛苦,要做早、中、 

晚餐,外加下午茶。甜点又总是最后一道 

上来,因此我们都是待到最晚的一群。你 

没什么时间跟家人相处,是执着与热情支 

持我们继续做下去。 

做甜点跟做其他风味料理有何不同?这两 

种不同的工作是如何互相影响的? 

对我们来说,材料跟味道最重要。我 

们负责设计,因为这是我们的强项 :设计、 

布置、摆放,让一切更有型,我发现其他 

菜色都会从我们的设计当中得到启发。比 

方说,甜点一向以长条方式摆放,一侧缀 

以三个小装饰,现在你会发现其他风味料 

理也是一样。这种影响是互相的。目前把 


kitchen conversations 

How is pastry work different from 

savory cooking? How do the two sides 

of the kitchen influence each other? 

For us it’s all about the ingredients and 

the flavor, and it’s the same for them – we all 

want to make delicious food. We come up 

with designs, because that is probably what 

we do best: designing, layout, creating shapes, 

and I see a lot of savory food inspired from 

that. For example, a long rectangle with three 

things on the side – that’s very common in 

desserts, and now you are seeing it in savory 

food too. The crossover goes both ways. At 

the moment there is quite a trend with using 

vegetables in dessert – oil infused with herbs, 

which I like to use, maybe some techniques 

to cream vegetables. It’s not something you do 

every day, but it’s very interesting to incorporate 

those things into dessert. You see parsnip, 

green peas, arugula and herbs coming into 

desserts. I’m a fan of using infused oil with 

herbs – it brings a great flavor contrast to a 

dish. I like essential oils, different flavors, like 

sandalwood or maybe pine tree. 

Do pastry chefs experience a greater 

sense of freedom, and with that freedom, 

extra pressure to be inventive? 

The ingredients we work with are more 

versatile compared with savory chefs. A slice 

of beef or a steak is very much what it is, but 

we can work with elements like chocolate or 

sugar and we can shape and sculpt them, so 

in terms of design and layout we have more 

freedom to play. Again, I think this comes 

back to your style and your beliefs. As you 

grow, you read a lot of books and magazines, 

you get inspired by other people, and then at 

some point you become your own self with 

your own products and dishes. The freedom 

you take is your own. If you want to go insane 

on the plate, you can. We have a lot of possibilities, 

but still, it has to make sense to the 

people who are eating. I like to keep things 

authentic, rustic and classic. 

Which ingredients are your current 

favorites? 

28 


My favorite ingredients to work with are 

fresh ingredients. I love chocolate too, but I 

really like the fruits and herbs and flowers of 

the moment, whatever is in season. I think 

this is your playground, you have the ingredients 

and you are free to play with them 

however you want to. I think if you have 

good quality ingredients then you are halfway 

there. We have some great figs from an 

organic farm here, and you don’t have to do 

much with them, they already taste so good. 

You just tweak a little and you are there – 

it’s simple. 

Does the need for precision and consistency 

in a pastry kitchen ever inhibit 

your creativity? 

Everyone in pastry has a ruler in his 

pocket, because everything has to be 

square and precise. Everything is consistent 

and clean. If you have a mountain of 

cake, layers that are all different shapes 

and thicknesses – that’s not appealing. 

But when it comes to plating the dessert, 

I think this is where you can play. Pastry 

can be a beautiful art. 

What is the most satisfying aspect of 

the pastry life? 

Making life sweeter for people brings 

fabulous rewards. We create moments. We 

spend hours preparing people’s dreams and 

within minutes, it all disappears into their 

stomachs. Yet these moments we create 

mean everything to us. Every time we 

make someone smile, we feel like we’ve 

won, we feel like we’ve made it, and we 

are proud. 

蔬菜纳入甜点已开始流行,像是草本浸泡 

油(用各式香草浸泡在食油中以取其芬芳), 

这也是我喜欢的做法,或是一些将蔬菜做 

成奶油的技巧。还有像是防风草、豆类、 

做色拉的芝麻菜以及各种香草都可以加到 

甜点中。我很爱用草本浸泡油,可以带出 

别的食材的原味。精华油我也喜欢,像是 

白檀或松树,香气都很独特。 

甜点师傅是否比较自由,也因为如此更有 

开发创意的压力? 

跟一般风味料理厨师比起来,我们要 

处理的材料是比较多变的。一片牛肉或 

牛排就是那样,但我们用的材料包括巧 

克力或糖,会在制作过程中给它们塑型 ; 

也就是如果以设计的角度来看,我们有 

较大挥洒的空间。当然我想这又回到了 

一个人的风格跟信念。你在成长过程中, 

读了许多书跟杂志,也认识一些对你有启 

发的人,然后在某一个时点上,你变成 

今天的自己,做出只有你才会做的食物。 

这份自由是在你自己手上。假如你想加点 

疯狂创意,那也由得你。我们可以尽情 

发挥,不过最后还是要考虑到吃的客人, 

不能让他们觉得太莫名其妙。我喜欢保 

留食物真正的风味,那是最质朴的经典 

原味。 

你目前最喜欢用什么食材? 

我最喜欢用新鲜材料做东西。我很爱 

巧克力,也喜欢随季节选用当季水果、草 

本植物跟花卉。我认为厨房就是游乐场, 

你手边有材料,可以自由搭配,做出你想 

要的东西来。我觉得食材好就成功了一半。 

我们跟本地一家有机农场合作,这家农场 

生产很好的无花果,风味极佳,无须再多 

雕饰。只要拧几下,摆成你要的样子就行了, 

非常简单。 

Fig Beignet: organic figs in 

batter, dipped in icing sugar 

with frozen lemon yogurt 

and blackcurrant coulis. 

无花果酥:有机无花 

果、包上糖霜、冰柠檬优 

乳,黑醋栗汁点缀。 

甜点厨房要求准确、一致,这会限制你的 

创意吗? 

每个做甜点的人口袋里都有一把尺, 

因为你要端出来的东西一丝一毫也马虎不 

得,必须妥贴端正,保持干净,不能前后 

不一。举例来说,你做一个多层大蛋糕, 

每一层的厚度跟形状都不一样,这样就会 

很不好看。但如何把甜点放在盘子上,我 

想就是你玩创意的时候。甜点是非常美丽 

的艺术。 

你认为当甜点师傅最棒的一点是什么? 

让客人因为吃甜点变得愉快,就是最 

棒的报酬了。我们创造美妙时刻,花上几 

小时替客人圆梦,但这些美味甜点不到几 

分钟就进了客人的胃。然而短暂的美妙时 

刻对我们来说意义非凡。每一次看到客人 

的微笑,我们就觉得又赢了一次,我们办 

到了!因此为自己感到骄傲。 


自由灵魂 

free spirit 

Chef Pâtissier Tadashi Nakamura combines 

executive rigor with creative artistry 

Tadashi Nakamura, Chef Pâtissier at Hong 

Kong’s three-Michelin-starred L’Atelier de 

Joël Robuchon, fell in love with French pastries 

as a young boy, while shopping with 

his mother in his native Japan. “I couldn’t 

be a businessman and work in an office. I 

don’t like to wear a necktie,” he laughs. “So 

I trained as a pastry chef.” 

Chef Nakamura may not wear a necktie, 

but he is an executive. He takes command 

of the kitchen seriously, insisting on exceptional 

quality ingredients, commitment 

from his team, and a rigorous approach to 

pastry. “Every day we have to do the same 

job, but every day is a challenge. It’s not easy 

just because we have done it before.” He 

has a knack for knowing how to combine 

30 


organization and creativity. “We need to make 

rules and follow them,” he says. “But if you 

only follow rules you cannot become a pastry 

chef. You need more – you need aspiration. 

And you need to understand why things go 

wrong. You can learn from mistakes.” 

His relationship with ingredients is deep 

and complex. Nakamura feels the outcome 

of a recipe can be influenced by weather, 

mood and the individual personalities of the 

chefs. 

“Ten chefs will make ten different macarons 

even if their recipes are similar. You 

can tell the difference in texture. When we 

make cakes, we talk to the ingredients. If we 

are angry, we lose the connection. My macaron 

recipe is different in summer and winter. 

The cooking time in summer is twelve minutes, 

in winter fourteen.” 

Chef Nakamura is faithful to classic recipes, 

putting a slight spin on them to make 

something unique. “I create at my own pace. I 

can change small things – add something, just 

a twist.” He understands the need for lightness 

and freshness. Pointing to a delicate, 

trembling slice of white chocolate passion 

fruit cake, he elaborates: “The sponge has no 

oil – egg white and flour, but no butter. On 

top is white chocolate, which is quite heavy. 

The light sponge creates the right balance.” 

“I made a crème brûlée with cinnamon 

instead of vanilla, and it was wonderful. I felt 

limited, using only vanilla. Now, making it with 

cinnamon, I feel unlimited. I feel free.” 

中村忠史(Tadashi Nakamura),也就是 

香港米其林三星级Robuchon 法式餐厅 

(L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon)的 Chef Pâtissier 

( 甜点主厨 ),对西式糕点的热爱源自 

于年幼时与母亲在祖国日本逛街的经历。 

「我可没办法像生意人那样坐办公室,我就 

是不喜欢打领带。」他笑着说,「所以我选 

择作甜点师傅。」 

虽然中村不爱打领带,他却可是个货 

真价实的行政主管呢。他对厨房的管理工作 

一丝不苟,要求工作团队尽心付出,并坚持 

使用质量最好的材料, 以严谨的态度制作糕 

点。「尽管每天的工作都一样,但对我们来 

说每天都是新的挑战。正因为都是做过的工 

作才不容易。」他懂得在行政组织内融入创 

意精神。「我们需要制定并遵守规则,」他说。 

「不过光是遵守规则并不会让你成为甜点师 

傅,你还需要有灵感。此外,你也得知道失 

败的原因,才能从错误中学习。」 

厨师和食材的关系相当深厚及复杂。他 

认为气候、心情,甚至是制作师傅的性格 

对食谱皆有影响。「就算是采用相同的食谱, 

十位师傅做出来的马卡龙也有十种。这些差 

异从点心的质地就可看出。所以在制作蛋糕 

时,我们会和食材有沟通。如果我们情绪不 

佳,我们和食材之间的连结会中断。还有, 

我的夏季与冬季马卡龙食谱也不同。夏天的 

制作时间为 12 分钟,而冬天则是 14 分钟。」 

拥戴经典食谱的同时,中村也会加入 

一些创新想法。「我会依自己的步骤行事, 

也会做一些小改变-像是添加一些元素, 

一些些就好。」他知道人们对轻淡、新鲜的 

需求。他指着一片装饰精美的白巧克力百 

香果蛋糕说:「海绵糕体没有使用任何油脂, 

tasting notes 

 

 

只用了蛋白和面粉制作,也没加奶油。蛋 

糕外层用了偏重的白巧克力,和口味轻淡 

的海绵糕体正好平衡。」 

他如此形容自己发现新事物的过程 : 

「我用肉桂代替香草,做了焦糖鸡蛋布丁, 

成果棒极了。我当时觉得只用香草过于局 

限,所以现在我改用肉桂。觉得自己不再 

受到食谱的限制,感觉好自由。」 

Pantone193u 100%Black 

Lemon Cake 柠檬蛋糕 

White Chocolate and Passion Fruit Cake 

白巧克力百香果蛋糕 

Macaron Apple 玉桂苹果巧克力马卡龙 


tasting notes 

冰冷的双手、温暖的心 

cold hands, warm heart 

Chef Boulanger Norihiko Takei takes no short cuts while baking some of Hong Kong’s finest viennoiserie 

At Le SALon de thé de Joël Robuchon, Chef 

Boulanger Norihiko Takei takes two days 

to make his famous croissants. “Croissants 

have lots of layers, so you have to be extra 

careful,” he says. “The flour and the butter 

have to be very good and fresh. No short 

cuts. If you put in the time, the results are 

totally different.” 

Chef Takei makes his croissants 

straight, rather than crescent-shaped, so 

that each light, flaky layer has extra freedom 

to rise. Why does it take two days? 

Takei reveals his secret: “The temperature 

is the thing. Keep all the ingredients in the 

freezer. Take them out as you work on each 

stage, and then replace them to chill again. 

Never allow the ingredients to come to 

room temperature, until just before baking 

the croissants.” 

32 


大学时,曾在面包店打工的香港 Le Salon 

de Thé de Joël Robuchon Chef Boulanger 

( 面包烘焙师) 武井周彦(Norihiko 

Takei),在毕业后决定放弃经济学文凭, 

因为他发现烘焙面包点心才是他想要的工 

作。 

制作他那名列香港最佳包点之一的牛 

角酥,准备的步骤需长达两日之久。武井 

认为这份工作需要纪律和充分的准备。 

「因为牛角酥有非常多的层次,制作 

时必须倍加小心。使用的面粉和奶油质量 

要上乘及新鲜,不可偷工减料。只要肯花 

时间,成果会相当不同。」 

不过,为什么得花两天来制作牛角酥 

呢?武井说出他的秘诀 :「重点在温度。 

必须把所有材料冷冻保存,分别在每个制 

作阶段取出使用,并随时再次冷藏。绝对 

不能让材料的温度降至室温。这个步骤要 

一直重复到烘烤牛角酥为止。」 

Croissant 牛角酥 

Strawberry Danish 草莓丹麦酥 


tasting notes 

THE MIRA 的大师 

the man in the mira 

Coco Pastry Chef Jean-Marc Gaucher brings 

creativity and a bit of craziness to the kitchen 

 

 

Chocolate Mooncakes 巧克力月饼 

Heavy Metal Bonbons: honey candy 

covered in equatorial chocolate 

重金属风格夹心糖:当中以 

巧克力裹覆的蜂蜜软糖 

Whirligig Bonbons: matcha green 

tea ganache with raspberry in white 

chocolate 

陀螺夹心糖:绿茶甘纳许巧克 

力 (含覆盆子馅白巧克力) 

Jean-Marc Gaucher, Executive Pastry 

Chef at The Mira Hong Kong, likes to display 

his creations front and center in Coco, 

the stylish café and patisserie located in the 

hotel lobby. 

“We want Coco to be part of the hotel 

entrance, an elegant showcase of what we 

have to offer,” he says. 

Among the sumptuous cupcakes, petit 

gateaux and specialty cakes are beautiful, 

otherworldly bonbons that look like they 

might have been created by a chef from an 

advanced planet. Each piece is individually 

hand-painted, and pieces are done in rotation, 

so that new temptations appear every day. 

“The pride of the pastry chef is to bring 

something colorful, surprising and fun at the 

end of the dinner,” says Jean-Marc. “Pastry 

chefs are special. You need to be a little 

bit crazy.” 

The Mira Hong Kong 饼房行政总厨 Jean- 

Marc Gaucher 喜欢於时尚型格之酒店大堂 

的 Coco 甜品柜,展示其一系列创意作品。 

他说 :「我们希望能让 Coco 成为酒店 

大堂的一部分,以优雅的风格展现我们酒 

店的各式精美甜点。」 

极尽妍巧的杯子蛋糕,法式软馅 

蛋糕及漂亮的主题蛋糕琳琅满目, 

而造型非常特殊的夹心糖,像是只 

有来自另一个更先进星球的厨师才 

能做得出来。每片蛋糕皆是手工 

制作,而且主题蛋糕天天换,因 

此每天都给人新的惊喜。 

Jean-Marc 又说:「最让甜点 

师傅感到骄傲的,是在一餐结束时 

端上色彩缤纷、令人惊喜开心的甜 

点。甜点师傅是很特别的一群人,个 

性多少有点疯狂。」 


tasting notes 

创意无限 

no limits 

Chef Thomas Liu’s pastries are lovely enough to make you 

wonder if you’re really meant to eat them – you are 

36 

Chef Thomas Liu 


Ravishingly beautiful coloRs, exquisite 

geometries, elegant decorative details—with 

Chef Thomas Liu’s pastry, the feast starts 

with the eyes. Visiting Thomas Trillion, the 

small shop near Victoria Park which he runs 

with his wife Ada, is satisfying even if you 

make the mistake of holding to your diet: it’s 

like stopping in at the gallery of a restlessly 

inventive pop art sculptor. 

“I never learned art in school,” says 

Thomas. “Because I was never taught, nothing 

blocks my way. There are no rules for 

me to follow. I can play around. I am free 

to create.” 

His signature cake is a bright orange 

cube surrounded by a square fence of dark 

chocolate. A slender line of silver leaves 

walks over a corner of the cake. “Not too 

much decoration, I like to keep it simple,” 

he says. “Simple outside, because it is complicated 

inside.” 

美丽迷人的色彩、精湛的几何形状、优雅 

的装饰细节 — 甜点厨师 Thomas Liu(吕 

德辉)的糕点首先给人视觉飨宴。Tasting 

Kitchen 有幸造访他和夫人 Ada 在维多利亚 

公园旁经营的糕点店 Thomas Trillion,进 

入店内彷佛置身在艺廊中,处处可见创意 

呼之欲出的波普艺术雕塑作品。即使不巧 

在节食中,还是能大饱眼福。 

Thomas 表示 :「我没学过艺术。也正 

因如此,所以一路可以毫无限制。不须遵 

循任何规则。可以随心所欲地尝试和创作。」 

他的招牌蛋糕设计成亮橙色方块造型, 

四周围了一道黑巧克力方篱。再用细细的 

一道银叶衔接蛋糕的一角。他说 :「不需太 

多装饰。我喜欢一切从简,因为蛋糕内部 

已经够复杂了。」｣ 

巧妙的外表下隐藏了结构复杂得令人 

赞叹的蛋糕。招牌橙色方块蛋糕内部是咖 

啡巧克力海绵蛋糕,用香蕉铺成多道环形, 

并涂满口感像冻糕 (parfait) 的微酸覆盆子 

奶油酱。整体搭配新奇而美味。 

To form a delicate contrast 

with the dark chocolate below, 

Chef Thomas sprays a finely turned 

ball of chocolate rattan with gold. 

甜点厨师Thomas Liu 为了巧妙 

区隔底下的黑巧克力,在上面 

加上洒了金粉的巧克力球。 

Left: Princess 公主

38 


tasting notes 

Bite into one of Chef Thomas’ “Sweetie” 

cherries. A thin metallic carapace of 

chocolate splinters, and then there is 

a moment of anticipation before your 

teeth meet the flesh of the cherry. He 

has a secret way to keep the fruit 

plump and juicy, which he doesn’t 

share, but once you do get your teeth 

into the cherry, some really top quality 

schnapps oozes out. Crazy delicious. 

一口咬下主厨的「甜心」樱桃巧克力 

球,首先吃到的是巧克力碎片铺成的 

薄薄外壳,以及咬下樱桃前的片刻期 

待。他的秘诀是能让樱桃饱满多汁,樱 

桃入口时,真正鲜美至极的樱桃香味 

在口中化开。真是美味得让人疯狂! 


The upper hemispheres of 

these delicate chocolate orbs 

are perforated to offer glimpses 

of the tempting, raspberrychocolate 

filling inside. 

这款美味巧克力球的上半部穿 

孔,可看到里面诱人的覆盆子 

巧克力内馅。 

40 


The smart surfaces of Chef Thomas’ 

cakes often do conceal intricately constructed, 

wow-inducing interiors. Embedded 

within the signature orange cube cake, 

which turns out to be made of coffee-flavored 

chocolate sponge, are rings of fragrant 

banana and lightly acidic raspberry cream 

with a parfait-like consistency. All together, 

it’s off-the-charts delicious. 

“I like to eat my signature cake,” says 

Thomas. “I really like it.” 

His father worked for thirty-three years 

as an engineer at the Peninsula Hotel, and 

Thomas designs his creations with an engineer’s 

precision, making detailed drawings 

outlining the thickness and sequence of 

layers within each cake. He still keeps a 

book made when he was a fourteen-year-old 

apprentice, with freehand diagrams, typed 

instructions and mounted photographs of his 

first pastries. 

Chef Thomas’ delicious designs fuse 

engineering and art, rigor and playfulness, 

form and flavor. “A chef should think about 

the guests, how they eat and how they feel,” 

he says. “From the first flavor through to the 

last – and how they feel afterwards. When 

you watch the guests as they enjoy a piece, 

and you see that they are happy, smiling, and 

love it – that is good enough for me.” 

And why did he decide to call his shop 

Thomas Trillion? 

“Trillion? It’s because when we create, 

there are no limits. My idea is to keep going. 

Non-stop. Trillions of ideas.” 

Thomas 说 :「我自己也很喜欢吃我的 

招牌蛋糕。」 

由于他的父亲曾在半岛酒店担任工程 

师长达 33 年,Thomas 也以工程师的精准 

度设计他的作品,事先以细图勾勒出每个 

蛋糕的厚度和内层。他至今仍保留 14 岁当 

学徒时的笔记本,里面有他第一次制作的 

手绘糕点作品插图、打字说明和照片。 

设计其作品时,Thomas 融合了工程与 

艺术、严谨与趣味,且色味兼具。他表示, 

「糕点师傅应想想客人品尝时的感觉,从第 

一口到最后一口的滋味,还有吃完后的感 

觉。客人看到糕点时开心微笑,而且喜欢, 

对我来说就够了。」 

为什么他会选择「Thomas Trillion」这 

个店名? ｣ 

「会用『Trillion ( 兆 )』这个字是因为 

创意无限。我的想法是持续不断,有数兆 

之多的无限灵感。」 

Thomas Liu’s 

Signature Cake 

Thomas Lui 

招牌橙方蛋糕 

tasting notes 

Royal 皇家蛋糕 


The pastry you 

love the most 

will be made 

by the people 

who most love 

to make it 

42 | TASTING KITCHEN | march 2013 march 2013 | TASTING KITCHEN | 43

44 

ervé Lemonon, Executive Pastry Chef at 

Grand Lapa Macau, gleefully sinks his hands 

into a stainless steel bowl full of almond flour and 

sugar, clenches two fistfuls of powder, pops his hands open 

and begins mixing things up by wiggling his fingers. He looks 

like he’s having the time of his life. 

“I wake up every day inspired by the wonder of the world 

around me,” he says. 

Chef Hervé radiates joy. His staff love him. Every morning 

there is a scuffle as various chefs on his team vie with 

each other to see who will get to help him prepare the buffet. 

“He isn’t just a chef,” says Junior Chef de Partie Roberto 

Macalalad. “He is also like a father.” 

“I’ve been here for twelve years. I came here as an 

apprentice,” says Assistant Pastry Chef Leong Kin Man. 

“We have great teamwork. It’s like a family.” 

An atmosphere of calm concentration prevails in the 

kitchen, until somebody cracks a joke. Then all the chefs 

erupt into a raucous round of banter. There is a lot of teasing, 

and laughing, and then things quiet down again as everybody 

focuses on the work. 

Hervé fills a piping bag with a mixture of whipped cream, 

lemon zest, butter and melted chocolate. Turning away from 

the petits fours he is decorating, he checks the glaze on a 

beautiful mango caramel cake a junior chef has finished. 


Chatting, laughing, animated, he swings around to another 

chef, who is dexterously spreading apricot jam on layers of 

puff pastry. Hervé calls out: “Ah Lei is the fastest Napoleon 

maker in Macau!” And then with magic speed and precision 

his own hands go to work, squeezing, piping out gloriously 

perfect dollops of mousse to top each tiny chocolate tart. 

Jr Demi Chef de Partie Kelly Ng is also piping, drawing 

lovely Chinese characters onto chocolate plaques. Other chefs 

are busy preparing raspberry and cherry mousse cakes, truffles, 

egg tarts and Black Forest gateaux, each working steadily at his 

or her station, occasionally passing each other instruments. 

Every now and then, chefs slip in and out through the 

sliced plastic curtains that protect a treasure vault of a cold 

storage room. Trolleys there are laden with cakes waiting to be 

released to customers upstairs. “It’s a great feeling when the 

cake you just made is sold or eaten straight away,” says Hervé. 

The joy and pride the chefs take in their work is contagious. 

Waiters coming from upstairs to collect bread, kitchen 

porters carrying buckets – everybody lights up as they come 

into Hervé’s pastry kitchen. 

There is a moment when the whole kitchen goes quiet. 

Everyone in the room is melting something: Hervé is melting 

caramel, Roberto a redcurrant glaze, Kelly chocolate, 

and Ah Lei a saucepan of apricot jam. The kitchen is silent 

apart from a very quiet bubbling. 

“ I wake up every day inspired by the wonder of the world around me. 

每天醒来,周遭世界的奇妙都会带给我灵感。” 

澳门金丽华酒店行政饼房总厨 Hervé Lemonon 开心地将双 

手插到盛满杏仁粉和糖的钢碗里,再一下子张开抓满了粉 

的双手,开始揉面。一副乐在其中的样子。 

他说: 「每天醒来,周遭世界的奇妙都会带给我灵感。」 

总厨 Hervé 整个人散发着喜悦。他的工作人员都很喜欢他。 

每天早上他组里不同的厨师都争先恐后想与他一起准备当 

日的自助午餐。初级主厨 Roberto Macalalad 表示, 「他不 

只是厨师,也像父亲。」 

助理饼房厨师梁健文表示 :「我在这里已经十二年了。 

一开始是当学徒。我们的团队合作气氛很好,像个大家庭。」 

厨房里通常是大家安静地聚精会神,直到有人说了个 

笑话。接着,所有厨师们会突然喧笑戏谑成一团。有很多 

的相互打趣和大笑。然后,随着大家又开始专注工作,一 

切又回归寂静。 

Hervé 将混入了柠檬皮、牛油和巧克力酱的鲜奶油装 

进奶油袋,装饰好花式小蛋糕后,转身检查一位新手厨师 

刚做好的芒果焦糖蛋糕上的糖衣,然后又兴高采烈地转身 

对正灵巧地将杏桃果酱铺在层层酥皮上的另一位厨师喊 

道,「阿李是全澳门做法式千层酥最快的人!」然后,双手 

又以神奇的速度和精确度开始工作,在每个小巧克力挞上 

挤出完美的一圈慕斯。 

初级助理主厨吴紫君 (Kelly) 也正用奶油袋在巧克力片 

上画出美丽的中文字。其他厨师则忙着准备覆盆子和樱桃 

慕斯蛋糕、蛋挞和黑森林蛋糕。每个人都在自己的工作台 

上稳健作业,偶尔帮忙把用具递给别人。 

厨师们偶尔会进出像是有塑料门帘保护宝库般的冷藏 

储存室。里面的推车上放满了等着拿到楼上给宾客的蛋糕。 

Hervé 表示 : 「刚做好的蛋糕一下子就卖完或被客人吃光, 

感觉很棒!」 

厨师们对所做成品的喜悦感和骄傲感极具渲染力。从 

下楼拿面包的服务生到拿水桶进来的厨房搬运工,每个人 

一进到 Hervé 的糕点厨房都是笑容满面。 

有时整个厨房会突然安静。每个人都在融东西: 

Hervé 在融焦糖,Roberto 在融红醋栗糖衣,Kelly 在融巧 

克力,阿李在融一锅杏桃果酱。除了小声的冒泡声之外, 

整个厨房鸦雀无声。

48 

| TASTING KITCHEN | march 2013

50 

From the left: Junior Chef de Partie Roberto Macalalad, Executive Pastry Chef Hervé Lemonon, First Cook Lei Tak Meng, 

Jr. Demi Chef de Partie Kelly Ng, Assistant Pastry Chef Leong Kin Man, Senior Chef de Partie Choi Kung Va, First Cook Kenny Ho, First Cook Anny Hoi 


由左边开始:初级主厨Roberto Macalalad,行政饼房总厨林学晖(Hervé Lemonon),一级厨师李德明, 

初级助理主厨吴紫君, 助理饼房厨师梁健文,高级主厨崔冠华, 一级厨师何文伟, 一级厨师许玉园 


tasting recipe 

「特洛佩的女人」法式巧克力茉莉花茶蛋糕 

jasmine tea chocolate tropézienne 

This deluxe Tropézienne, created 

especially for Tasting Kitchen, 

is an updated version of one of 

Chef Regis’ childhood favorites 

为「Tasting Kitchen美食杂志」 

特制的精美「特洛佩的女人」 

(Tropézienne)蛋糕,是主厨 

Regis儿时美味的现代诠释. 

By Regis Monges 

Pastry Chef at Grand Hyatt Macau 

52 


The Tropézienne is a classic pastry from 

the south of France, where I’m also from. I 

was a young child when I first tried one. The 

owners of a Saint-Tropez pâtisserie brought 

a cake along when they came to our house 

to buy a Vespa. While they were speaking 

and drinking with my parents, I finished it 

all by myself! 

Back in the 1950s, Brigitte Bardot filmed 

And God Created Woman on location in 

Saint-Tropez. The pâtisserie doing the catering 

brought this amazing little cake to the 

set along with the baguettes and croissants, 

and the filming crew fell in love with it. They 

kept asking for more and more until finally 

Bardot suggested the cake should be named 

for Saint-Tropez. And that’s how it became 

known as the Tropézienne. 

The classic Tropézienne recipe has 

orange and vanilla flavors, but I’ve added 

some complexity. It’s normally punched 

with orange blossom syrup. I’ve kept the 

orange flavor, perking it up with the Grand 

Marnier and incorporating orange zest inside 

the dough and cream. 

The cake’s cream filling is made with 

milk infused with jasmine tea, matcha tea, 

orange zest and vanilla beans. The classic 

recipe uses buttercream. But I whip this 

one to make a Chantilly that is white chocolate-based 

with cream. In texture and taste, 

I believe it is more attractive. 

There are a lot of ingredients combined 

in this cake. Sometimes you are trying to 

add a new layer of flavor. Other times you 

use one to reinforce or give substance to 

another. You can’t really taste the white 

chocolate, but it provides the structure, 

roundness and smoothness. The orange 

zest and the jasmine tea layer upon each 

other. The matcha green tea and the jasmine 

tea flavors reinforce each other while 

also bringing a hint of grass. 

In order to appreciate bite after bite, you 

need to have something that provides contrast 

and reverses the balance on your palate. 

It could be something acidic, crunchy, salty, 

or even sour. But it’s important to have a 

component that moves you back and forth. 

I’ve added almonds, which are very common 

in the south of France. Caramelized, roasted 

in the oven with a hint of salt, they give the 

Tropézienne just the right extra flavor and 

texture. 

「特洛佩的女人」(Tropézienne)是我的家乡、 

法国南部的传统糕点。第一次吃到的时候 

年纪还很小,当时,圣特洛佩小镇(Saint- 

Tropez)一家蛋糕店的老板到我家来买伟士 

牌 (Vespa) 机车,顺道带了个特洛佩蛋糕来。 

趁大人们边吃边喝聊得正开心的时候,我 

一个人把整块蛋糕全都吃光光! 

1950 年代法国知名女星碧姬芭杜的 

电影「上帝创造女人」(And God Created 

Woman) 在圣特洛佩小镇(Saint-Tropez) 

取景。负责剧组伙食的面包店,供应了这 

款美味的小蛋糕。电影剧组人员一试便爱 

上了这款甜点。碧姬芭杜当时就建议用小 

镇的名字特洛佩来命名,也就是现在「特 

洛佩的女人」(Tropézienne)名称的由来。 

「特洛佩的女人」传统食谱包括柳橙及 

香草再加入橙花糖浆,蛋糕奶油馅以鲜奶 

为基底,加入茉莉花茶、抹茶、橙皮丁及 

香草籽。相较传统作法,我加入柑曼怡甜 

酒(Grand Marnier) 提升味道的层次,并 

在内馅及奶油内加入橙皮丁 ;再以白巧克 

力为底,加以奶油为辅。 

「特洛佩的女人」里面加了许多配料。 

有时是为了创造一种新的风味,有时则是 

为了烘托其他配料。白巧克力的味道可能 

不突出,但却让口感更为圆滑、柔顺 ;橙 

皮丁及茉莉花茶交叠帮衬、绿茶则提升整 

体的茶香及滋味,同时带来一丝青草的清 

香。 

要一口接一口吃不腻,还要加入一些 

滋味口感与主味相反的材料,带给味蕾完 

全不同的新鲜感,带酸、酥脆、偏咸甚或 

酸味都可以。我加入的是法国南部乡间四 

处可见的杏仁。进烤箱烘烤后,放入「特 

洛佩的女人」蛋糕里,正好可以发挥画龙 

点睛的效果,带出独特的口感与风味。 


tasting recipe 

orANGE BrIoCHE 

500 grams bread flour 

67 grams sugar 

10 grams salt 

25 grams yeast 

300 grams egg 

250 grams butter 

4 oranges for zest 

1 2 3 4 

Mix the flour, sugar, salt, 

yeast, and egg at medium 

speed for 25 minutes. 

Zest the oranges over the 

mixture, add the butter in 

small pieces while mixing at 

low speed, and then move 

to medium speed until the 

mixture fully separates from 

the sides of the bowl. 

Shape the dough into a ball 

and then roll it out into a flat 

circular disk about ½ cm thick 

and 20 cm in diameter. 

Cover the dough. Let it rest 

and rise to double its original 

size and then punch it down. 

Paint it with egg yolk and 

sprinkle sugar and almond on 

top for garnish. 

Bake the brioche at 160°C 

for around 20 minutes. The 

actual time will vary by oven 

and dough size. 

54 


WHITE CHoColATE jASmINE 

TEA WHIppEd CrEAm 

75 grams infused milk (see below) 

240 grams cream 

140 grams white chocolate 

6 grams Grand Marnier 

Infused mIlk 

175 grams milk 

10 grams jasmine tea 

2 grams matcha green tea 

5 grams orange peel 

1 grams vanilla bean 

To infuse the milk, boil 

it with the jasmine tea, 

matcha green tea, orange 

peel, and vanilla beans. Sieve 

the liquid and measure out 

75 grams of infused milk. 

Warm the infused milk with 

the cream, but don’t bring it 

to a boil. Pour it on the white 

chocolate. 

Add the Grand Marnier 

and place the mixture in 

the refrigerator. Allow it to 

mature for twelve hours 

before using. 

Lightly whip the mixture. 

jASmINE TEA Syrup 

250 ml water 

25 grams sugar 

55 grams jasmine tea 

330 grams Grand Marnier 

Boil the water and sugar. 

Remove the liquid from the 

heat and add the tea leaves. 

Let it infuse for 30 minutes 

before straining. 

Allow the liquid to cool down 

and then add the Grand 

Marnier. 

ASSEmBly 

250 grams candied almonds 

1 orange for zest 

1 orange for orange peel confit 

Slice the brioche horizontally 

in half. 

Brush both layers with 

jasmine tea syrup. 

Cover the bottom layer with 

the whipped cream. Piped 

rosettes look nicer and give 

the cake more volume when 

assembled. 

Roughly chop the candied 

almonds and sprinkle them 

on top of the whipped cream. 

Finely grate orange zest over 

the whipped cream. 

To make the orange peel 

confit, cut the orange peel 

into julienne strips and boil in 

a simple syrup of equal parts 

water and sugar. Sprinkle the 

confit on top of the whipped 

cream to reinforce the flavor 

of the orange in the cake. 

Place the top layer on the 

whipped cream and garnish 

the top if desired. Enjoy! 

香橙布里欧麦面包 

500 公克面粉 

67 公克糖 

10 公克盐 

25 公克酵母 

300 公克蛋 

250 公克奶油 

1 2 3 4 

4 颗橙皮丁(橙皮洗净去除白色 

部分,只留下薄薄一层橙皮) 

将面粉、糖、盐、酵母及 

蛋放入碗内,以中速揉和 

25 分钟。 

橙皮丁切碎放入,分次加 

入奶油,同时慢速和面团, 

后加快至中速,揉至面团 

与碗壁可以完全分离。 

将面团揉成球状后杆平至 

0.5 公分厚、直径 20 公分 

大小。 

静置面团,待膨胀二至三 

倍大后刷上蛋黄,撒上糖 

及杏仁片点缀。 

放入烤箱以 160° 烤约 20 

分钟。烘烤时间依烤箱及 

面团大小而有调整。 

白巧克力茉莉花茶鲜奶油 

75 公克调味奶 ( 见下方说明 ) 

240 公克奶油 

140 公克白巧克力 

6 公克柑曼怡甜酒 

调味奶 

175 公克牛奶 

10 公克茉莉花茶 

2 公克抹茶 

5 公克柳丁皮 

1 公克香草籽 

牛奶加入茉莉花茶、抹茶、 

橙皮丁及香草籽煮滚调味 

后过筛,取 75 公克备用。 

调味奶加入奶油后小火慢 

煮,勿煮滚,加热后倒至 

白巧克力上。 

加入柑曼怡甜酒后放入冰 

箱冷冻 12 小时。 

取出后轻轻搅拌即可。 

茉莉花茶糖浆 

250 毫升水 

25 公克糖 

55 公克茉莉花茶 

330 公克柑曼怡甜酒 

将糖水煮滚。 

关火后加入茶叶,浸泡 30 

分钟后过筛。 

待冷却后再加入柑曼怡甜 

酒。 

装盘出餐 

250 公克焦糖杏仁 

1 颗橙的橙皮丁 

1 颗橙的橙皮 

布里欧奶油面包横切为上 

下层两份。 

两份均涂上茉莉花茶糖浆。 

下层覆以鲜奶油。以鲜奶 

油花边装饰视觉效果更佳。 

压碎焦糖杏仁后撒在鲜奶 

油上方。 

将橙皮丁整齐置于鲜奶油 

上。 

将橙皮切成细丝,放入水 

糖比例各半的糖水中煮滚。 

取出橙皮丝,撒在鲜奶油 

上方,衬出蛋糕的香橙风 

味。 

将奶油面包上层置于鲜奶 

油上。上层可随喜好增添 

装饰。 


草莓缘未了 

cake karma 

Chef Günther Wolfsgruber recommends a simple path to happiness: eat more cake 

Chef Günther WolfsGruber still remembers 

eating his first strawberry. He was a boy, 

sitting in a field near a mountain lake in June, 

in his native Austria, and it was a moment 

of pure delight. Now, years later, serving as 

the pastry chef at MGM Macau, he still feels 

his spirits lift every time a new shipment of 

strawberries arrives at his kitchen. 

“When you bring strawberries into a pastry 

kitchen, the opportunities are endless!” 

At the same time, he cautions that strawberries 

pair less promiscuously with other 

ingredients than people imagine. Cream, 

or proper home-made yogurt, will enhance 

a strawberry’s flavor, while mint and sweet 

basil lend depth. Matching pineapple or 

passion fruit with strawberries creates a 

pleasing acidity. Rhubarb, orange and citrus 

liqueurs, like Cointreau and Grand Marnier, 

draw out the berry’s shadowy notes. Chocolate 

and coffee are to be avoided as they 

mask delicate tones in a strawberry’s flavor. 

Tea is the best choice of drink to accompany 

the fruit. Orange Pekoe, Darjeeling 

and Oolong will all highlight a strawberry’s 

true colors. 

行政总饼师 Günther Wolfsgruber 仍记得他 

第一次吃草莓的情景。当时六月,还是小 

男孩的他坐在奥地利老家山光水色的草地 

上,那样的喜悦与感动至今难忘。许多年 

后,当年的小男孩成为澳门美高梅的行政 

总饼师,每当新的一批草莓送达厨房,总 

让他精神为之一振。 

「只要用草莓做甜点,就可以变出无 

穷的美味花样!」 

然而他也不忘提醒,草莓与其他食材 

的搭配组合,并不如一般人所想的那么多、 

那么随性。举例来说,奶油或自制优格能 

提升草莓的味道,薄荷和甜罗勒能加强口 

感深度,与凤梨或热情果搭配则能创造出 

顺口的酸味。大黄、橙子和柑橘利口酒, 

例如君度橙酒 (Cointreau) 和柑曼怡 (Grand 

Marnier),能扫除草莓晦暗的气息。巧克 

力和咖啡则该避免与之搭配,因为它们会 

掩盖住草莓风味里娇嫩的格调。茶是最好 

的选择,橙香白毫、大吉岭和乌龙最能凸 

显出草莓的真性情。 

这些组合在 Günther 制作的糕点里都 

看得到。令人惊讶的奢华马卡龙串,以 

草莓和热情果果冰搭配,缀上希腊干优 

乳碎片。而他的经典作草莓塔,则在柔 

软的奶油馅里不着痕迹地掺了点柑曼怡 

tasting notes 

Chilled peach and champagne mousseline 

on light strawberry compote with 

fresh strawberries, pink peach sherbet 

and crispy meringue fingers 

红桃香槟奶油配清新士多啤梨酱,新鲜士多啤 

梨,粉红蜜桃雪芭及香脆法式蛋白条 


“ When you bring strawberries into a pastry 

kitchen, the opportunities are endless!” 

当你把草莓带入糕点厨房,创意是无限的!” 

These liaisons all appear in Chef 

Günther’s pastries. A playfully extravagant 

macaron shish kebab is held together with 

strawberry and passion fruit sherbet and 

topped with grated Greek yogurt. His classic 

strawberry tart has a whisper of Cointreau in 

the soft crème patisserie filling. Each flavor 

is carefully selected to play perfect counterpoint 

to the strawberries. 

“Fashion comes and goes, but comfort 

food lasts,” says Günther. “Quality is the 

most important thing.” 

Quality – and to get there, something that 

might best be described as heart. “You must 

have passion and be in the right mind set. 

58 


Strawberry Romanoff pastry 士多啤梨罗曼诺夫 

How can you design something beautiful, 

without being in a good mood?” 

A kitchen scented by strawberries is a 

heavenly place to work, and eating strawberry 

pastries, explains Günther, is good for 

the soul: “I don’t feel guilty if I eat a piece 

of cake with cream. I don’t believe in low 

fat and low sugar. I eat the whole deal, or 

I won’t eat it. Nowadays people have more 

than they ever did, and yet they are unhappy. 

They don’t make time to enjoy their lives. To 

sit down with a cake to take afternoon tea 

makes you happy. And when you are happy, 

you have the capacity to be kind to other 

people.” 

(Cointreau)。每种口味都经过精心挑选, 

与草莓演绎出最精准的协奏曲。 

「流行会过时,只有真正的美食才能永 

续。」 Günther 说道,「最重要的是质量。」 

谈到质量,就不得不从心态谈起。「你 

必须充满热情,心态要正确。如果情绪不佳, 

怎么可能创造出如此美丽的食物呢?」 

Günther 说,在充满草莓香的厨房工作 

有如置身天堂,吃草莓甜点更是有益身心。 

「我吃奶油蛋糕完全不会有罪恶感。我不相 

信低糖低脂。现代人什么都有,生活远比 

以往富足,却更不快乐,不懂得花时间享 

受生活。坐下来吃块蛋糕、喝个下午茶能 

让你心情愉悦。你自己快乐了,才有能力 

让别人快乐。」 

tasting tasting notes 

notes 

Classic French strawberry 

frangipane tart with Cointreau 

crème pâtissière and pistachios 

经典法式草莓杏仁奶油挞 

佐以君度橙酒奶油与开心果仁 


world / world class 

class 

低调的喜悦 

discreet delight 

Wyndham the 4th is hard to find but easy to love 

An initiAl clue to Wyndham the 4th’s selfassurance 

is the bar’s simple webpage, which 

features nothing more than an address, a 

phone number and this statement: “Now 

Open.” Hidden away on the 4th floor of a 

non-descript office building on Wyndham 

Street, there are no signs to help guide the 

way, and the entrance is easy to miss. 

The search contributes to the charm of 

the discovery. The bar is cozy and intimate, 

outfitted with leather sofas and lamps, and 

it opens up to a lovely outdoor terrace, just 

high enough above the street hubbub to preserve 

Wynham the 4th’s tranquil, restrained 

60 


mood. It’s the sort of place that can easily 

afford promotional discretion: delighted customers 

take care of spreading the word. 

“Lan Kwai Fong is party central. We don’t 

want the bar to be crazy like that,” says bartender 

John Ng. “We want it to be a quiet, 

classy place where you can have a proper conversation 

with your friends.” Ng, a finalist in 

the 2013 Diageo Reserve World Class Bartender 

of the Year competition, works the bar 

alongside 2012 Hong Kong winner and Wyndham 

bar manager Tom Wood. 

One of John’s award-winning cocktails 

is the “BBC” – beef and beer cocktail. John 

explains that beer is becoming much more 

popular on the cocktail circuit. “It has a 

heavier texture and flavor. And the Juniper 

Pale Ale in this drink really complements the 

refreshing natural juniper flavors in the gin. 

It’s a good match.” 

Egg white and honey add to the nourishing, 

frothy thickness, which is accented by 

the lighter floral notes of the tea and Elderflower 

liquor. John describes his cocktail as 

a tribute to the English and what they have 

done for Hong Kong. “Gin, tea and beer, with 

some beef on the side – you can’t get much 

more English than that!” 

BBC 

Beef & Beer Cocktail 鸡尾酒 

30 ml Tanqueray No. TEN gin 

坦奎瑞琴酒 

50 ml Elderflower liquor 

接骨木花利口酒 

20 ml lemon juice 柠檬汁 

20 ml tea and honey mix 茶与蜂蜜混调 

(4ml English Breakfast Tea, 

16ml honey) 

(4ml 英国早餐茶加 16ml 蜂蜜 ) 

1 egg white 个蛋白 

Rogue Juniper Pale Ale to top 

在上面淋上杜松淡啤酒 

Dried tea leaves 干燥茶叶 

Spray of homemade tea perfume 

自制茶香精 

1 piece beef jerky, skewered on toothpick 

一片牛肉干,以牙签固定住 

Measure the gin, lemon juice, tea and 

honey, elderflower liquor and egg white 

into a shaker. Shake gently. Add a large 

scoop of ice and shake again. Strain 

into a small beer stein. Top with Juniper 

Pale Ale and sprinkle dried tea leaves 

across the top. Spray with a mist of tea 

perfume and lay a skewered twist of 

beef jerky across the top of the glass. 

Cheers! 

按照上面的分量,在容器里一一加 

入琴酒、柠檬汁、茶及蜂蜜、接骨 

木花利口酒跟蛋白,然后轻轻摇晃。 

然后加一大杓的冰,再摇。摇匀之 

后倒入啤酒杯内,淋上杜松淡啤酒、 

撒上几片干的茶叶,最后洒些茶香 

精,在杯口上横斜地放一片牛肉干。 

干杯吧! 

从 Wyndham the 4th 的网页便能感受到这 

家酒吧的自信,设计简单的网站上仅有地 

址、电话及「已开幕」寥寥数字。隐身在 

一栋貌不惊人的办公大楼四楼,没有招牌, 

让第一次来的客人很容易就错过入口。 

但正因这家酒吧难找,却显得更有魅 

力。整间酒吧给人温馨亲切的感觉,舒适 

的皮沙发及座灯,讨人喜欢的露台,其高 

度正好避开底下街道的喧嚣,宁静自持的 

风格因此得以保存。这样吸引人的所在, 

让侥幸发现这里的常客都不愿多张扬。 

酒吧副经理伍浩然表示 :「兰桂坊适 

合开派对狂欢,但我们不希望这家店变得 

太狂野。我们希望打造一个安静、有质感 

的地方,你可以跟朋友舒服地谈天。」伍是 

2013 年 Diageo Reserve 举办的世界最佳调 

酒师大赛进入决赛者,与 2012 年香港区冠 

军 Tom Wood ( 也是本店经理 ) 共同经营。 

伍发明的 BBC 鸡尾酒曾得过奖,是以 

牛肉及啤酒混合而成。他解释近年来啤酒 

已成为鸡尾酒相当受欢迎的调料,因其「质 

Tanqueray No. TEN is the gin of World 

Class, the global competition which 

celebrates the skill and style of the 

world’s best bartenders. Follow all the 

action at facebook.com/WorldClassHK. 

地较厚、香味浓郁,杜松淡啤酒为琴酒添 

增松树的香气,搭配起来效果极佳。」 

蛋白及蜂蜜使口感滋养、醇厚,淡雅 

花香的茶及接骨木花利口酒更衬托出绝妙 

口感。伍说这款鸡尾酒代表他向英国人致 

敬的心意,「琴酒、茶及啤酒,里面加些牛 

肉,你找不到更英国式的东西了!」 


梅洛葡萄酒 

the way of merlot 

Along an ancient pilgrim’s path, which leads through France to the Cathedral of Santiago de 

Compostela in Spain, lies the Château Franc Mayne, famed since Roman times for its fine wines. 

Hervé Laviale and his wife Griet acquired the Bordeaux property in 2005, adding it to their 

other wine estate holdings in the region, and have since made their mark with great Bordeaux 

blends. Mr. Laviale met with TK recently at the Miele Lounge in Hong Kong to talk about Merlot. 

从法国到西班牙的圣地亚哥德孔波斯特拉大教堂的朝圣路上,坐落着一座自罗马时代便因生产上 

好葡萄酒而享誉盛名的弗朗梅诺酒庄。Hervé Laviale夫妇于2005年买下了这座位于波尔多的著名 

酒庄,进一步拓展他们的葡萄酒王国,旗下顶级葡萄酒扬名海外。TK此次有幸与Laviale先生在香 

港Miele Lounge相会,一同畅谈梅洛葡萄酒的点点滴滴。 

Tell us about the region where your 

vineyards are located. 

The Right Bank in Bordeaux is a place 

where Merlot has been planted for decades. 

It is a bit less sunny and the type of soil is clay 

and limestone. Limestone is an important part 

of the terroir for Merlot because it provides 

minerality and acidity. Other regions that produce 

Merlot wines don’t have that dimension. 

What are the characteristics of Merlot? 

It is a very easy-going grape, probably the 

most joyful grape in Bordeaux. Generally we 

make a blend. Merlot brings easy aromas and 

a little fruit – red fruit. But you need to have 

some Cabernet with the Merlot, which gives 

bones to the wine and lends complexity. 

62 

DeD icateD to appreciating the best minD s in the worlD of wine 

How important is the climate in Bordeaux 

for growing Merlot? 

Merlot from Bordeaux is very different 

from that of other countries. In Bordeaux, 

even when it is very hot during the day, 35 

degrees in July and August, the nights are 

still fresh. This means the grapes cannot 

create too much sugar, so there is not too 

much alcohol in the wine. In Spain and Italy, 

day and night temperatures are consistently 

hot, so the wines are more alcoholic. 

At what point do you know the grapes 

are perfectly ready? 

You have to taste the grapes on the vines 

from beginning of September until the harvest 

to check aromas inside the fruit and the 

先谈谈贵葡萄园的所在地吧。 

数十年来,波尔多右岸向来是梅洛 

葡萄的主要产区,那里阳光没那么多, 

土质以黏土与石灰石为主。石灰石是栽 

种梅洛葡萄相当重要的风土条件,提供 

了这款红酒很特别的矿物质和酸味,其 

他地区生产的梅洛葡萄酒就少了这两种 

味道。 

梅洛葡萄有什么特色? 

这种葡萄十分平易近人,称得上是 

波尔多地区口感最舒服的葡萄吧,通 

常会与其他种葡萄混合酿酒。梅洛葡 

萄让酿出的红酒有自然的芬芳和一点 

红果的滋味,但还需要加一些赤霞珠 

葡萄以突出这款红酒的个性,增添复 

杂的层次感。 

Edmon Leong 

| TASTING KITCHEN | march 2013 Hervé Laviale, winemaker 酿酒师

taste of the pips. You have to chew a lot. If 

the pips taste of nuts, this is good. If they are 

too green, this has a negative effect on vinification. 

You also have to put the grape into 

your hand and rub the skin to see if the color 

is right. It should come out on your fingers. 

So you have to be sure the three elements 

are there: the level of sugar in your mouth, 

the taste of the pips, and the color. 

How long do you have to harvest the 

grapes? 

You have a very short window. Merlot is a 

grape that needs its maturity but if you wait 

too long the quality decreases very quickly. 

We can move fast with the harvest and clear 

seven hectares in two days. 

Does the size of the wine bottle make 

a difference? 

The quality of the magnum cork is better 

as we try to dedicate the best corks for the 

bigger containers. The size of the container 

also has an effect on the contents. The evolution 

inside a bigger bottle is greater – the 

wine can change more. When you put your 

wine into a bottle it is like caging it, you put 

it in jail. So it is better to be in a big jail. 

Once it is bottled, how quickly can we 

get it open? 

It isn’t good to taste the wines too soon after 

64 

Miele is proud to share another chapter 

in its dedication to the world of fine wine. 

A constant commitment to excellence 

& an enduring desire to be forever better. 

Since 1899 

bottling, because there is something we call 

“bottling disease.” You have to let the wines 

have at least one year. The wine has to recover 

from the bottling. Like a kind of trauma. 

What about storing and keeping wine 

after you buy it? Any tips? 

The best way is to store your wine in a 

professional cooler, where you can monitor 

the heat and humidity and light. If the light is 

harsh, it can break the wine. Optimal conditions 

are a temperature of fifteen to eighteen 

degrees Celsius, and humidity of fifty to sixty 

percent. The humidity is necessary to prevent 

the cork from shrinking, which causes 

too strong a change in the wine. 

Does the age of a wine affect how it 

should be served? 

A younger wine should be opened early 

to give it a chance to breathe. Three hours 

minimum, so you can appreciate the complexity. 

Older vintages are more fragile and 

susceptible to oxidation, and being open too 

long can hurt the flavor. Decant very young 

wines but with very old wines, just open the 

bottle. 

How do the recent Bordeaux vintages 

vary? Which ones should we be snapping 

up? 

You are not producing the same wine 

from one year to another. Our major goal 

is to let the vintage express itself. Different 

vintages can vary in flavor, level of extraction 

and density of the wine. People are attracted 

by the big Bordeaux vintages of the decade: 

2000, 2005 and 2009. But when you are 

looking for wine, give a chance to the other 

vintages. If you want an easy-going wine 

right now, choose 2007, which is very inexpensive. 

The 2004 is very classical, while 

2006 and 2008 have a more exotic style. At 

our properties, the 2004 is opening and the 

2005 is ready. 

波尔多的气候对栽种梅洛葡萄有什么重要 

影响? 

波尔多地区生产的梅洛葡萄与其他国 

家的非常不同。在波尔多,即使是炎热的七、 

八月,白天温度高达 35 度,夜晚的空气依 

然清凉,这种气候的葡萄不会产生过多糖 

分,因此酿成的葡萄酒酒精度较低。西班 

牙和意大利从早到晚的气温都很高,酿出 

酒的酒精度就比较高。 

如何知道葡萄完美熟成的时候? 

从九月初葡萄还在藤上时就要试吃, 

一直到收成季节,检查果内的香气和种籽 

的味道,要不断咀嚼品尝。如果种籽尝起 

来像坚果,这就很好,如果太青涩,也感 

觉得出来,这对酿酒过程是不利的。还要 

将葡萄放在手中,搓揉果皮,看显现在手 

指头上的颜色对不对。总之有三项要素 : 

嘴里尝到的甜度、种籽的味道、果皮的颜色。 

采收葡萄需花多少时间? 

采收期很短。梅洛葡萄最好要等到成 

熟时立即采收,若等太久质量很快就下降 

了。我们的采收速度很快,两天内就可采 

收完七公顷。 

酒瓶大小会造成什么差异吗? 

容器大小的确对酒有影响,大酒瓶的 

陈年效果比较好,酒可以经历较多改变。 

其实将酒装瓶像是把酒囚禁起来,关在牢 

里,当然牢房大一点比较好。因此我们用 

心找最适合大酒瓶的软木塞,目前发现 1.5 

升酒瓶的软木塞质量最适宜。 

近年的波尔多年份酒有什么不同?哪些年 

份是值得大肆抢购珍藏? 

每年产出的酒都不相同,我们的目的 

是让各年份展现自己的特色。不同年份的 

酒在风味上、萃取程度上、浓度上都不同。 

过去十年的波尔多年份酒中,许多人推崇 

2000 年、2005 年和 2009 年的,但我建议 

不要忽略了其他的年份。如果想要平易近 

人的酒,就该选 2007 年的,而且价格也相 

当宜人。2004 年的非常中规中矩,2006 和 

2008 年的则带有异域风情。在我们的酒庄, 

Miele Boutique Ground Floor, 111 Leighton Road, Causeway Bay, Hong Kong 香港铜锣湾礼顿道 111 号地下 q +852 2890 1018 H www.miele.hk 


Edmon Leong 

Mr. and Mrs. Laviale have designed their wine labels to reflect the history of the 

region. The Château Vieux Maillet (Pomerol) bottle on the far right has a label with a 

cockle shell motif, symbol of the pilgrims who walk the route to Santiago. Learn more 

about the Laviale’s premier wines here: http://www.chateaufrancmayne.com/ 

Laviale夫妇设计的酒标反映出当地的历史,例如最右边老铁锤酒庄的酒标设计 

便发想于蛤壳的纹路,象征朝圣者徒步前往圣地亚哥的旅程。欲了解Laviale 

的顶级葡萄酒,请至http://www.chateaufrancmayne.com/。 

“Merlot is probably 

the most joyful 

grape in Bordeaux. 

梅洛葡萄应该是波 

尔多地区口感最 

舒服的葡萄。” 

2004 年刚可开始品尝,2005 年是水到渠成, 

最佳享受时刻。 

将酒装瓶后多久可以打开? 

装瓶后不要太快打开,酒会因为被装 

瓶而所谓「生病」。至少要放一年,让酒能 

有时间复原。 

买了酒之后,有什么贮存的窍门吗? 

最好的方法是将酒存放在专门的酒柜 

里,温度、湿度和光线都控制在一定范围。 

光线太强会伤害酒体,而最佳的温度是摄 

氏 15 到 18 度,湿度最好介于 50~60% 之间。 

如果没有维持一定的湿度,使得软木塞干 

燥萎缩,会对酒造成非常大的影响。 

酒龄会影响饮酒方式吗? 

酒龄较轻的酒应提早打开,让酒有机 

会呼吸,至少提早三小时,喝的时候口感 

就会有复杂的层次。酒龄较老的年份酒比 

较脆弱,容易氧化,太早打开反而坏了风味。 

所以非常年轻的酒要倒出来喝,非常老的 

酒则要打开瓶盖马上喝。 

什么料理适合搭配梅洛葡萄酒? 

这得依据不同的年份酒而定。我们有一 

款 2003 年的酒,当年非常炎热,酿成的酒 

就和巧克力甜点很搭。不过就梅洛葡萄酒而 

言,我会推荐羊肉、鸡鸭和小牛肉。 


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fax 

Kindly return the completed 

form by fax or mail to: 

Ignite Media Group 

Attention: Anita Leong 

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Please make checks payable 

to “Ignite Media Group”.

72 


dessert 

This inspired train of sweet, tart, strawberry flavors was created by MGM Macau’s Pastry Chef Günther Wolfsgruber. 

Passion fruit and strawberry macarons alternate with passion fruit and strawberry sherbet to make a colorful dessert 

kebab, served on rhubarb confit, with Greek yogurt, fresh strawberry salad and jellied strawberry consommé. 

如此甜蜜可口的草莓酱甜品列车,是澳门美高梅行政总饼师渥宽德的精心杰作。交替串连的热情果及草莓马卡龙, 

表面铺上冰冻的混合奶霜作点缀,配以由希腊乳酪,新鲜草莓沙拉及草莓果冻以及大黄酱,实在一试倾心。

TK6 JOY OF PASTRY Mar2013.pdf

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