TK6 JOY OF PASTRY Mar2013.pdf

Vincent thierry had just completed a twoyear
apprenticeship in the south of France
and was looking for a permanent position.
His older brother, already a chef in Paris,
handed him a book full of restaurant names
and addresses to use as a reference. It was a
Michelin Guide. Vincent sent out a wave of
letters, mostly to two- and three-star restaurants,
though at the time, he says, “I didn’t
even know what that meant.”
One of the first responses was from
then three-star Restaurant Taillevent in
Paris. “That was very important for me.”
Thriving on the challenge of learning and
improving, Vincent worked in a series of
top-notch kitchens. Each move was made
with purpose. At places ranging from a strict,
disciplined “yes Chef!” kitchen to a smaller,
family-run restaurant, Vincent experienced
different management styles and learned
new cooking techniques.
“You have to move to catch style and
experience from many different chefs. You
find different techniques. It’s what makes
you stronger. And that is very important for
your career,” Vincent explains. “Your bag is
never full, but when it starts to be full, you
are ready to try on your own.”
Years later, Chef Vincent’s resume reads
like a version of the Michelin Guide he once
used as a phonebook, and he now helms the
three-star Caprice, one of the most highly
regarded French restaurants in the world.
Vincent’s refined approach emphasizes top
quality ingredients, taste, innovation and a
sincere appreciation for the contributions
made by his team.
Caprice’s langoustine cannelloni is a
perfect example. Vincent starts with raw
shellfish as the central ingredient. “You have
to push yourself to be creative. It’s art. It’s
funny – you never know where an idea might
come from. Sometimes it’s a book I’m reading.
Or it might be the shape of a pillow I
see.”
As he layers in other ingredients, Vincent
is always thinking about taste. “For me,
taste is first, and you can’t get great taste
without great starting products.” He uses
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| TASTING KITCHEN | march 2013
Bresse pigeon wrapped and baked with
foie gras, Périgord black truffle, Swiss
chard and puff pastry, accompanied by
conchiglioni stuffed with Swiss chard and
served with S. Pellegrino sparkling water.
mostly imported, seasonal ingredients:
imported, to ensure consistency in quality
and flavor, something smaller local farms
cannot guarantee in quantity; and seasonal,
for the freshest possible products.
“I’m definitely fighting to serve products
in season. When the season finishes, I
stop.”
The presentation of the langoustine
and salmon as cannelloni, with the delicately
placed vegetable garnish, is a
team effort. “Alone, I am nothing,” says
Vincent. “I can serve six people, maybe.
But I cannot serve sixty people lunch
and dinner. It’s nonstop: prepare, send
to the customer, prepare, send, create.
Also when you start the decoration, the plate
needs a lot of small hands.”
It is this mutual respect between head
chef and team that has led to a remarkable
staff retention rate, surely a factor in the
restaurant’s eight-year success. “Hong Kong
酥皮乳鸽酿鸭肝伴黑松露菌、 再加上
当中夹有瑞士白菜的大贝壳螺形意大利
面,搭配意大利圣培露含气矿泉水。
customers are very tough. They push you to
be better. If we’re still here, it’s because every
day we grow as a team.”
Learn more about San Pellegrino
at www.jebsenfinewines.com.
Caprice Chef Vincent Thierry
当 Vincent Thierry 刚在法国南部结束为期
两年的餐饮专科,他哥哥已经在巴黎一家
餐厅当厨师。当时,哥哥给了他一本米其
林指南,他便照着上头的地址寄出许多封
应征信,多半是两星或三星的餐厅。
最先回复的包括巴黎一家三星餐厅
Taillevent。「收到他们的回复,对我来说意
义重大。」于是就此经历了他一连串的挑战
与成长。之后他陆续在几家知名的餐厅中
历练。他从不盲目换工作,每次跳槽都有
特定的目的。他待过管理严格的厨房 ( 在
那里你只能回答 :「是!主厨。」) ;也待过
像个家庭般温馨的小餐厅,并且从中体验
不同的管理风格,学会许多新的烹饪技巧。
Vincent 进一步说明 :「一名厨师必须
跟其他不同的厨师学习,累积经验,培养
风格。唯有这样,你才能变得更强,才能
拓展自己的生涯。」他又说 :「学习是没有
止尽的,不过当你发现好像已经学得差不
多时,就表示你可以开始独立了。」
数年后,许多米其林餐厅都洋洋洒洒列
在 Vincent 的履历上,跟他当年第一次拿到
的米其林指南差不多。现在他在全球首屈一
指的三星级法国餐厅 Caprice 当主厨。重视
食材质量、着重品味、敢于革新、由衷赏识
下属的付出,均塑造了他今日的成功。
香腌三文鱼卷酿螯龙虾就是个极好的
例子。Vincent 选择生的贝壳类当作主要食
材。「你得激励自己更有创意,烹饪是门艺
术。有趣的是,你永远不知道想法是从哪
冒出来的,可能来自我在读的一本书,也
可能是因为看到一个枕头的形状。」
再来是放入其他食材,他对口味十分
看重 :「若不慎选食材,就不可能做出好味
道的料理。」为了确保质量及风味不变,他
大多使用进口最新鲜的当季食材。「我坚持
只供应当季食物。」
用龙虾及三文鱼做肉卷,再一一摆放
蔬菜装饰,要细致完美,便需要通力合作。
Vincent 说 :「光靠我一人是办不到的。或
许我可以服务六个客人,但我不可能服务
六十位午、晚餐的客人。」
正是主厨与团队之间的互相尊重,人
员甚少流动,也带来这家餐厅八年的荣景。
「香港的客人很挑剔,推动着你更臻完美。
如果我们能长久留在这里,是因为我们的
团队每天都在进步。」
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