TK6 JOY OF PASTRY Mar2013.pdf

草莓缘未了
cake karma
Chef Günther Wolfsgruber recommends a simple path to happiness: eat more cake
Chef Günther WolfsGruber still remembers
eating his first strawberry. He was a boy,
sitting in a field near a mountain lake in June,
in his native Austria, and it was a moment
of pure delight. Now, years later, serving as
the pastry chef at MGM Macau, he still feels
his spirits lift every time a new shipment of
strawberries arrives at his kitchen.
“When you bring strawberries into a pastry
kitchen, the opportunities are endless!”
At the same time, he cautions that strawberries
pair less promiscuously with other
ingredients than people imagine. Cream,
or proper home-made yogurt, will enhance
a strawberry’s flavor, while mint and sweet
basil lend depth. Matching pineapple or
passion fruit with strawberries creates a
pleasing acidity. Rhubarb, orange and citrus
liqueurs, like Cointreau and Grand Marnier,
draw out the berry’s shadowy notes. Chocolate
and coffee are to be avoided as they
mask delicate tones in a strawberry’s flavor.
Tea is the best choice of drink to accompany
the fruit. Orange Pekoe, Darjeeling
and Oolong will all highlight a strawberry’s
true colors.
行政总饼师 Günther Wolfsgruber 仍记得他
第一次吃草莓的情景。当时六月,还是小
男孩的他坐在奥地利老家山光水色的草地
上,那样的喜悦与感动至今难忘。许多年
后,当年的小男孩成为澳门美高梅的行政
总饼师,每当新的一批草莓送达厨房,总
让他精神为之一振。
「只要用草莓做甜点,就可以变出无
穷的美味花样!」
然而他也不忘提醒,草莓与其他食材
的搭配组合,并不如一般人所想的那么多、
那么随性。举例来说,奶油或自制优格能
提升草莓的味道,薄荷和甜罗勒能加强口
感深度,与凤梨或热情果搭配则能创造出
顺口的酸味。大黄、橙子和柑橘利口酒,
例如君度橙酒 (Cointreau) 和柑曼怡 (Grand
Marnier),能扫除草莓晦暗的气息。巧克
力和咖啡则该避免与之搭配,因为它们会
掩盖住草莓风味里娇嫩的格调。茶是最好
的选择,橙香白毫、大吉岭和乌龙最能凸
显出草莓的真性情。
这些组合在 Günther 制作的糕点里都
看得到。令人惊讶的奢华马卡龙串,以
草莓和热情果果冰搭配,缀上希腊干优
乳碎片。而他的经典作草莓塔,则在柔
软的奶油馅里不着痕迹地掺了点柑曼怡
tasting notes
Chilled peach and champagne mousseline
on light strawberry compote with
fresh strawberries, pink peach sherbet
and crispy meringue fingers
红桃香槟奶油配清新士多啤梨酱,新鲜士多啤
梨,粉红蜜桃雪芭及香脆法式蛋白条
march 2013 | TASTING KITCHEN | 57