TK6 JOY OF PASTRY Mar2013.pdf

taste of the pips. You have to chew a lot. If
the pips taste of nuts, this is good. If they are
too green, this has a negative effect on vinification.
You also have to put the grape into
your hand and rub the skin to see if the color
is right. It should come out on your fingers.
So you have to be sure the three elements
are there: the level of sugar in your mouth,
the taste of the pips, and the color.
How long do you have to harvest the
grapes?
You have a very short window. Merlot is a
grape that needs its maturity but if you wait
too long the quality decreases very quickly.
We can move fast with the harvest and clear
seven hectares in two days.
Does the size of the wine bottle make
a difference?
The quality of the magnum cork is better
as we try to dedicate the best corks for the
bigger containers. The size of the container
also has an effect on the contents. The evolution
inside a bigger bottle is greater – the
wine can change more. When you put your
wine into a bottle it is like caging it, you put
it in jail. So it is better to be in a big jail.
Once it is bottled, how quickly can we
get it open?
It isn’t good to taste the wines too soon after
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bottling, because there is something we call
“bottling disease.” You have to let the wines
have at least one year. The wine has to recover
from the bottling. Like a kind of trauma.
What about storing and keeping wine
after you buy it? Any tips?
The best way is to store your wine in a
professional cooler, where you can monitor
the heat and humidity and light. If the light is
harsh, it can break the wine. Optimal conditions
are a temperature of fifteen to eighteen
degrees Celsius, and humidity of fifty to sixty
percent. The humidity is necessary to prevent
the cork from shrinking, which causes
too strong a change in the wine.
Does the age of a wine affect how it
should be served?
A younger wine should be opened early
to give it a chance to breathe. Three hours
minimum, so you can appreciate the complexity.
Older vintages are more fragile and
susceptible to oxidation, and being open too
long can hurt the flavor. Decant very young
wines but with very old wines, just open the
bottle.
How do the recent Bordeaux vintages
vary? Which ones should we be snapping
up?
You are not producing the same wine
from one year to another. Our major goal
is to let the vintage express itself. Different
vintages can vary in flavor, level of extraction
and density of the wine. People are attracted
by the big Bordeaux vintages of the decade:
2000, 2005 and 2009. But when you are
looking for wine, give a chance to the other
vintages. If you want an easy-going wine
right now, choose 2007, which is very inexpensive.
The 2004 is very classical, while
2006 and 2008 have a more exotic style. At
our properties, the 2004 is opening and the
2005 is ready.
波尔多的气候对栽种梅洛葡萄有什么重要
影响?
波尔多地区生产的梅洛葡萄与其他国
家的非常不同。在波尔多,即使是炎热的七、
八月,白天温度高达 35 度,夜晚的空气依
然清凉,这种气候的葡萄不会产生过多糖
分,因此酿成的葡萄酒酒精度较低。西班
牙和意大利从早到晚的气温都很高,酿出
酒的酒精度就比较高。
如何知道葡萄完美熟成的时候?
从九月初葡萄还在藤上时就要试吃,
一直到收成季节,检查果内的香气和种籽
的味道,要不断咀嚼品尝。如果种籽尝起
来像坚果,这就很好,如果太青涩,也感
觉得出来,这对酿酒过程是不利的。还要
将葡萄放在手中,搓揉果皮,看显现在手
指头上的颜色对不对。总之有三项要素 :
嘴里尝到的甜度、种籽的味道、果皮的颜色。
采收葡萄需花多少时间?
采收期很短。梅洛葡萄最好要等到成
熟时立即采收,若等太久质量很快就下降
了。我们的采收速度很快,两天内就可采
收完七公顷。
酒瓶大小会造成什么差异吗?
容器大小的确对酒有影响,大酒瓶的
陈年效果比较好,酒可以经历较多改变。
其实将酒装瓶像是把酒囚禁起来,关在牢
里,当然牢房大一点比较好。因此我们用
心找最适合大酒瓶的软木塞,目前发现 1.5
升酒瓶的软木塞质量最适宜。
近年的波尔多年份酒有什么不同?哪些年
份是值得大肆抢购珍藏?
每年产出的酒都不相同,我们的目的
是让各年份展现自己的特色。不同年份的
酒在风味上、萃取程度上、浓度上都不同。
过去十年的波尔多年份酒中,许多人推崇
2000 年、2005 年和 2009 年的,但我建议
不要忽略了其他的年份。如果想要平易近
人的酒,就该选 2007 年的,而且价格也相
当宜人。2004 年的非常中规中矩,2006 和
2008 年的则带有异域风情。在我们的酒庄,
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| TASTING KITCHEN | march 2013
Edmon Leong
Mr. and Mrs. Laviale have designed their wine labels to reflect the history of the
region. The Château Vieux Maillet (Pomerol) bottle on the far right has a label with a
cockle shell motif, symbol of the pilgrims who walk the route to Santiago. Learn more
about the Laviale’s premier wines here: http://www.chateaufrancmayne.com/
Laviale夫妇设计的酒标反映出当地的历史,例如最右边老铁锤酒庄的酒标设计
便发想于蛤壳的纹路,象征朝圣者徒步前往圣地亚哥的旅程。欲了解Laviale
的顶级葡萄酒,请至http://www.chateaufrancmayne.com/。
“Merlot is probably
the most joyful
grape in Bordeaux.
梅洛葡萄应该是波
尔多地区口感最
舒服的葡萄。”
2004 年刚可开始品尝,2005 年是水到渠成,
最佳享受时刻。
将酒装瓶后多久可以打开?
装瓶后不要太快打开,酒会因为被装
瓶而所谓「生病」。至少要放一年,让酒能
有时间复原。
买了酒之后,有什么贮存的窍门吗?
最好的方法是将酒存放在专门的酒柜
里,温度、湿度和光线都控制在一定范围。
光线太强会伤害酒体,而最佳的温度是摄
氏 15 到 18 度,湿度最好介于 50~60% 之间。
如果没有维持一定的湿度,使得软木塞干
燥萎缩,会对酒造成非常大的影响。
酒龄会影响饮酒方式吗?
酒龄较轻的酒应提早打开,让酒有机
会呼吸,至少提早三小时,喝的时候口感
就会有复杂的层次。酒龄较老的年份酒比
较脆弱,容易氧化,太早打开反而坏了风味。
所以非常年轻的酒要倒出来喝,非常老的
酒则要打开瓶盖马上喝。
什么料理适合搭配梅洛葡萄酒?
这得依据不同的年份酒而定。我们有一
款 2003 年的酒,当年非常炎热,酿成的酒
就和巧克力甜点很搭。不过就梅洛葡萄酒而
言,我会推荐羊肉、鸡鸭和小牛肉。
march 2013 | TASTING KITCHEN | 65