TK6 JOY OF PASTRY Mar2013.pdf

自由灵魂
free spirit
Chef Pâtissier Tadashi Nakamura combines
executive rigor with creative artistry
Tadashi Nakamura, Chef Pâtissier at Hong
Kong’s three-Michelin-starred L’Atelier de
Joël Robuchon, fell in love with French pastries
as a young boy, while shopping with
his mother in his native Japan. “I couldn’t
be a businessman and work in an office. I
don’t like to wear a necktie,” he laughs. “So
I trained as a pastry chef.”
Chef Nakamura may not wear a necktie,
but he is an executive. He takes command
of the kitchen seriously, insisting on exceptional
quality ingredients, commitment
from his team, and a rigorous approach to
pastry. “Every day we have to do the same
job, but every day is a challenge. It’s not easy
just because we have done it before.” He
has a knack for knowing how to combine
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organization and creativity. “We need to make
rules and follow them,” he says. “But if you
only follow rules you cannot become a pastry
chef. You need more – you need aspiration.
And you need to understand why things go
wrong. You can learn from mistakes.”
His relationship with ingredients is deep
and complex. Nakamura feels the outcome
of a recipe can be influenced by weather,
mood and the individual personalities of the
chefs.
“Ten chefs will make ten different macarons
even if their recipes are similar. You
can tell the difference in texture. When we
make cakes, we talk to the ingredients. If we
are angry, we lose the connection. My macaron
recipe is different in summer and winter.
The cooking time in summer is twelve minutes,
in winter fourteen.”
Chef Nakamura is faithful to classic recipes,
putting a slight spin on them to make
something unique. “I create at my own pace. I
can change small things – add something, just
a twist.” He understands the need for lightness
and freshness. Pointing to a delicate,
trembling slice of white chocolate passion
fruit cake, he elaborates: “The sponge has no
oil – egg white and flour, but no butter. On
top is white chocolate, which is quite heavy.
The light sponge creates the right balance.”
“I made a crème brûlée with cinnamon
instead of vanilla, and it was wonderful. I felt
limited, using only vanilla. Now, making it with
cinnamon, I feel unlimited. I feel free.”
中村忠史(Tadashi Nakamura),也就是
香港米其林三星级Robuchon 法式餐厅
(L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon)的 Chef Pâtissier
( 甜点主厨 ),对西式糕点的热爱源自
于年幼时与母亲在祖国日本逛街的经历。
「我可没办法像生意人那样坐办公室,我就
是不喜欢打领带。」他笑着说,「所以我选
择作甜点师傅。」
虽然中村不爱打领带,他却可是个货
真价实的行政主管呢。他对厨房的管理工作
一丝不苟,要求工作团队尽心付出,并坚持
使用质量最好的材料, 以严谨的态度制作糕
点。「尽管每天的工作都一样,但对我们来
说每天都是新的挑战。正因为都是做过的工
作才不容易。」他懂得在行政组织内融入创
意精神。「我们需要制定并遵守规则,」他说。
「不过光是遵守规则并不会让你成为甜点师
傅,你还需要有灵感。此外,你也得知道失
败的原因,才能从错误中学习。」
厨师和食材的关系相当深厚及复杂。他
认为气候、心情,甚至是制作师傅的性格
对食谱皆有影响。「就算是采用相同的食谱,
十位师傅做出来的马卡龙也有十种。这些差
异从点心的质地就可看出。所以在制作蛋糕
时,我们会和食材有沟通。如果我们情绪不
佳,我们和食材之间的连结会中断。还有,
我的夏季与冬季马卡龙食谱也不同。夏天的
制作时间为 12 分钟,而冬天则是 14 分钟。」
拥戴经典食谱的同时,中村也会加入
一些创新想法。「我会依自己的步骤行事,
也会做一些小改变-像是添加一些元素,
一些些就好。」他知道人们对轻淡、新鲜的
需求。他指着一片装饰精美的白巧克力百
香果蛋糕说:「海绵糕体没有使用任何油脂,
tasting notes
只用了蛋白和面粉制作,也没加奶油。蛋
糕外层用了偏重的白巧克力,和口味轻淡
的海绵糕体正好平衡。」
他如此形容自己发现新事物的过程 :
「我用肉桂代替香草,做了焦糖鸡蛋布丁,
成果棒极了。我当时觉得只用香草过于局
限,所以现在我改用肉桂。觉得自己不再
受到食谱的限制,感觉好自由。」
Pantone193u 100%Black
Lemon Cake 柠檬蛋糕
White Chocolate and Passion Fruit Cake
白巧克力百香果蛋糕
Macaron Apple 玉桂苹果巧克力马卡龙
march 2013 | TASTING KITCHEN | 31