TK9-SEAFOOD-Nov13-BOOK.pdf

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Executive Chinese Chef Tam Kwok Fung 中菜行政总厨谭国锋
for the changing season, by adding chicken
stock and sliced ginger to the conch meat.
“We use ginger to make the soup a little
warming. We keep it simple – no serious
herbs or seasonings, just the natural seafood
flavor, a slight meaty back-taste from
the chicken and some ginger to lift it. Great
for balancing the body’s condition.”
Conch is one of many treasures swimming
around near the coast of Southern
China, where the fresh waters of the Pearl
River estuary dilute the deep salty ocean. “In
the old days people sat on the steam boat
between Hong Kong and Macau for hours,
just so they could buy our local crabs and
carry them home in their bamboo baskets.
The taste of Macau crab is natural and succulent
– the waters are rich in feed for the
fish and this gives a juicy quality to the meat.
We have lionhead fish too which you can find
in the wet markets here. They are expensive,
but the flavor and texture of them is something
you will never forget! And then there
are the prawns. South China Sea prawns
have great texture – both tender and chewy.
Nowadays there is a focus on farmed food
and fish, but I don’t agree with it. I prefer
natural, wild-caught food. It tastes better.”
48
| TASTING KITCHEN | september 2013
South China Sea prawns are the main
focus of another of Tam’s autumn dishes. A
lacy basket made from translucent rice flour
holds pink prawns, shiny walnuts studded
with tiny sesame seeds, and gleaming chive
shoots. This beautiful dish has a fresh and
delicious aroma. Made with local produce,
it’s light-flavored yet deeply satisfying.
“Prawns are a good source of protein,”
says Tam. “The combination of fish and
chives is naturally warming. Chives come
from the garlic family and are reputed to
defend against cold, bacteria and germs. As
for walnuts – well, the Chinese believe that
they are a healing food, good for the brain
and kidneys. We toast the walnuts with some
brown sugar in the wok, then fry them for
two minutes. When you roast nuts with a
little brown sugar it makes them more nourishing
for the body. Perfect for autumn!”
Chef Tam summarizes Jade Dragon’s
cooking philosophy: “It is better to eat right
on a daily basis than to wait until you get sick
and rely on medicines. Daily consumption
of good, nourishing food will balance your
body’s condition. Choosing the right food
for the season should help keep you healthy
throughout the year.”
总厨拿起了只长约一尺的响螺、螺壳
外突、呈盘旋状,带着白绿色泽,螺肉颜
色则像蜜桃般娇嫩。他说 :「螺肉很甜,在
中国南部算是很受欢迎的顶级食材。」 在
「誉珑轩」,这般大小的海螺通常会做成两
道菜,一道把肉取出、去皮切片后下锅爆炒,
皮则放于炖汤,物尽其用。
为了迎合季节变换,谭国锋使用螺肉、
鸡汤及姜片熬煮独门汤品,美味非常。他
也大方分享制作秘诀 :「姜可让汤喝起来较
暖,除此之外一切简单至上,无须添加特
别的药草或调味品,便能喝得到海鲜的原
味,另外在姜的提味下,还尝得到些许鸡
肉香甜的余韵,对于身体状况平衡大有益
处!」
中国南部沿海地区与珠江交会,偏咸
的海水受到稀释,孕育出许多近海珍馐,
海螺便是其中之一。 「以前有不少人习惯
搭蒸气船往返港澳,花上数小时就是为了
采买我们当地的螃蟹,再用竹篓整笼带回。
澳门蟹滋味天然、水分饱满,且拜此区水
中生物繁多所赐,栖息的鱼类肥美,肉质
多汁。这里的生鲜湿货市场也找得到狮头
鱼,虽然价格不菲,但味道及肉质让人一
试难忘!南中国海出产的明虾也绝对不能
错过,软嫩中带有嚼劲,口感极佳。现在
许多养殖食物或鱼类大行其道,但我总无
法苟同,还是偏爱天然、野生捕捉的食材,
吃起来滋味更足。」
韭菜花合桃炒斗门花竹虾正是谭国锋
秋季菜单中的另一个亮点。红粉的明虾、带
有亮泽的合桃,缀以芝麻及透亮的葱芽,置
于糯米粉制成的花边透明篮篓中,相当别致,
散发清新且诱人的香气。使用的俱是地方农
产食材,口味清淡,却让人一尝倾心。
谈到这道菜,谭国锋表示 :「花竹虾富
含蛋白质,另外鱼肉加上细葱有天然温热
的效果。细葱与大蒜系出同门,都有祛寒、
遏止细菌及病毒的功效。至于合桃,中国
人视为具疗效的食材,对于大脑及肾脏特
别好。我们在铁锅中加入合桃及些许黑糖
烘烤,再拌炒两分钟即可。坚果类加点黑
糖过烤,有助释放出对人体有营养的成分,
正是秋季菜式的不二之选!」
总结「誉珑轩」的餐饮理念,谭国锋说:
「相较于病起求医,每天的正确饮食显得更
为重要。摄取品质良好、营养丰富的食物对
于保持身心健康平衡极有裨益。顺应时节吃
的好、吃的对,可保经年健康无虞。」
Stir-fried Sea Prawns with
Walnut and Garlic Chives
韭菜花合桃炒斗门花竹虾
Double-boiled Sea Conch with
Dried Longan, Yam and Wolfberry
桂圆淮杞炖响螺