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INTO TlIE UND OF THE MOORS. 13<br />

various minerals, rock worn into honeycomb caverns, and aJso<br />

giant pudding-stones.<br />

We saw severa.! white buildings with low domes, the tombs of<br />

various marabouts or saints, above which tloat one or two tlags,'<br />

and to which pilgrimages are constantly being made by the superstitious<br />

peasantry. At one point the cliffs decline abruptly to the<br />

sea and so we had to mako a long detour to reach Larache, which<br />

is situated on a hill-side upon the southern bank of the river Kus<br />

where it enters the ocean. This river opeus into quite a little bay<br />

in which lay a very smaJI French steamer and three or four feluccas,<br />

small ooasting-veBBels with two masts inclining towards either<br />

extremity of the boat and a huge triangular sail upon the forward<br />

one. The town, like Aroilla, was built originally by the Portuguese.<br />

It is surrounded by a notched wall of stone and smaJI<br />

brick, with a large towered fort on the ocean side and the governor's<br />

paJace behind the centre of the town. The mouth of the<br />

river is not more than one hundred feet in width and is very<br />

shallow, so that only the smaJIest veBBels can enter, and even for<br />

them it is very dangerous in squaJly weather. Sailing craft are<br />

towed through the narrow channel 'and far out to sea by means of<br />

a rope attached to a distant kedge. The pilot-boat is manned by<br />

sixteen rowers, a steersman and a captain. We and our animaJs<br />

and baggage were transported across in huge tlat-bottomed scows,<br />

and then we slowly filed through dirty, narrow, crooked and illpaved<br />

streets, between very dilapidated houses and through the<br />

aoko or market-place-with its colonnade of little arches containing<br />

aJI aorts of shops, and with a few deaJers about, offering fish,<br />

vegetables and fruitB-and then on through a huge gate out upon<br />

the blu.lf, near the edge of which we camped.<br />

There is a oonsiderable export as well as import trade at Larache,<br />

and vast heaps of sugar were awaiting transport into the interior,<br />

while equaJly as large ones of various graius were piled ready for<br />

shipment. The wharf and streets were full of people-Moors,<br />

Arnbs, Jews, Spaniards, Syrians, Negroes, eta. One beheld every<br />

shade of complexion and many picturesque styles of dress. There<br />

is an immense ditch about the waJ1s, which are pierced for muskets<br />

and surmounted by long and slim bronze cannon. Two batteries<br />

of heavy, but very rusty and apparently useless, cannon, lie at the<br />

foot of the bluff without the waJIs. Not far from our camp were<br />

severa.! others of natives who had brought bags of grain from the<br />

interior and whose droves of camels and donkeys would soon be

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