actual - DSpace@GIPE

3-14 ,AOTU-AL .A.FHIO-A.
cadamised, and provided with stone bridges and long causeways
when n ....essary. The country was terraced and covered with cere·
ala and the cochineal plant. All the villas with their gay.colored
walls were surrounded by pretty fiower and vegetable gardens.
After a drive of abont six miles I reached the old town of La
Laguna, 1,840 feet above sea-level, and rattled through ita strag·
gling suburbs and fiat-paved streets for a long time, passing several
curious old churches, the Town Hall, and a plaza ornamented with
a large marble fountain. I had left Santa Cruz at four in the
afternoon and now was favored with a clear full·moon. On leaving
Laguna the road was bordered with rows of eucalyptua tr_
and led through an undulating, fertile and carefully cultivated
country. Then I caught a glimpse of the sea, and the road followed
the general trend of the coast, though at some distance, and
descended gradually to the valley • of Orotav... From now on I
had charming views of the peak, the snow·fielda glistening in the
strong moonlight. Finally I reached the eastern barrier of the
valley and saw the point called" Humboldt's Corner," as it was
near here, on the old road, that the great traveller threw himself
on the ground, and sainted the sight as the finest in the world.
Though it certainly was remarkably fine by night, and afterwarda
as I saw it by day, still I could not wholly agree with the judgment
of Humboldt.
Driving on, the road was lined for miles with eucalypti, cacti,
geraniums, roses and oleanders. The whole air was filled with perfume.
We passed many sumptuous villas and rich fields. Gradually
turning to .. ards the ocean, I sa .. npon the great Moping plain
two 10 .. cones of extinct volcanoes, no .. mere cinder heaps. Then
came an enormODa ne .. hotel-it contaiD8 150 roolllll-Slanding on
a hill, three or four hundred feet high, and just back of the to .. n
of Puerta Orotav&, which lies npon a fiat peninsula, fringed .. ith
great reefs of lava rock upon .. hich the billows break lOud foam
and roar. At last I reached my deetination, and made final arrangements
for the ascent of the peak. The hotel 11''' mrrounded
• by a beautiful garden with wa1ks, ponds, fountaiD8 and aviaries.
It was full of invalids, moat of whom were of English nationality.
Puerta Orotava is an ordinary Spanish town of some 4,000 inhabitants,
with an old convent in whieh cockfights are held on Sundays.
My visit 11''' in mid·winter wben Teneri1re is rarely ...
cended. There were bnt two guides in the town.. One believing
it too dangerowt, refused me point-hlank, but the other would take