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448· ACTUAL AFRICA.<br />

establishing a factory upon it. A short distance to the east of its<br />

mouth, in a cleared space of forest on the southern bank of the<br />

Kassai, is the town of Ngun, of some hundred and odd huts,<br />

massed irregularly together, with narrow connecting lanes. This<br />

is by far the largest town we have yet seen upon the banks of the<br />

river. It is said, ho\vever, that there are many much larger ones<br />

but IiIhort distances in the interior, though these it is dangerous<br />

for a white man to visit, for the natives regard them as their<br />

special retreats. A few miles above Nglln the Kassai, which,<br />

nearly always since we had left its affiuent the Kwango, had been<br />

a great stream from three to eight miles wide, suddenly narrowed<br />

to less than half a mile. A little further \))!··and we drew in to a<br />

small village for the night. 'fhe inhabitants, with their bows and<br />

arrows in hand, came down to the bank and signalled us not to<br />

land but to go elsewhere, while we held up colored handkerchiefs<br />

and went steadily in and anchored.. Wl:>eriwe aacended to the<br />

village there was not a soul in it. However we saw Some human<br />

heads here and there in the tall grass, and gradually induced a few<br />

of the least timid to come out, when we offered to. trade Borne<br />

handkerchiefs for a few chickens and some yams. But as they said<br />

they preferred beads, we sent back to the steamer for some.<br />

The next day the river was bordered with dcnse forests, in the<br />

trees of which we frequently saw a sp~cies of large monkey scampering<br />

from bough to bough. We passed a number of little villages<br />

and at one of them, at which we wished to land to gct some<br />

malafou to use in making bread, the people made so hostile a<br />

demonstration that we deemed it the more prudent to continue<br />

our voyage. Before noon we passed the mouth of the Sankuru,<br />

the largest affluent of the Kassai, though its source has not yet<br />

been explored. At the junction of this great stream with the<br />

greater Kassai there stand the houses of Bena Bendi, an old station<br />

of the Belgian Commercial Company, which has, however,<br />

long been abandoned, as therc was not enough trade at that particular<br />

spot. The scenery to-day was a great improvement. The<br />

forest was full of palms, ferns and vines, and there were many<br />

gigantic trees with straight trunks and only a tuft of foliage atop.<br />

What with the smaller trces and the undergrowth, the forest<br />

seemed to be one solid mass of verdure, like the great forests of<br />

the Amazon. We threaded our way often in narrow channels<br />

between wooded islands, in the style, likewise, of frequent Amazon<br />

navigation. The banks were one hundred to five hundred feet

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