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TOWN AND TRAOK. 23<br />

sight to behold on tbe one hand the women staggering up the<br />

steep hill, occupied with the severest toil" while on the other one<br />

saw the men-it being the last day of the festival-gayly caparisoned<br />

and riding at full gallop over the plain, and amusing themselves<br />

by f,'equently firing their guns in odd and awkward positions<br />

-here styled "powder-play." We pitched our camp for the night<br />

near the ambitious mud-walled gate of a rather larger village than<br />

we usuaJly encountered. The headman came forth and begged us<br />

to go inside the waJls, but we preferred the extra cleanliness of our<br />

chosen site snd declined to move notwithstanding we were informed<br />

that, being now south of the Seboo river, the country was ravaged<br />

by a robber tribe named Beni Hassan, and that only a few nights<br />

previously an Arab had been shot and his donkey .tolen exactly<br />

wbere we p,'oposed to camp. As a sort of compromise we agreed<br />

to corra.! our animals within the walls, sending one of our own<br />

men to guard them, and took three men of the town to protect<br />

our camp during the night. Native thieves are accustomed to<br />

rush in Bnd seize an animal, or anything loose in a tent, and gaJlop<br />

oj!, so it is almost impossible to' catch them. As something of a<br />

protection against them all the villages are first surrounded with a<br />

ditch, next by a mud wall covered with cactus, and next by a<br />

great barrier of thorny bushes -which are collected and fastened in<br />

bundles. About five o'olock a rain storm came on, which continued<br />

all night.<br />

We started on at nine o'clock in the morning, still traversing<br />

the vast plain of the day before. The wind. blew strongly and it<br />

was exceedingly cold; there were also frequent showers. The<br />

villages seemed to occur oftener and to be larger, though of the<br />

asme genera.! character. Some of them were very picturesque<br />

with their barriers of red thorn, their brown straw huts and blue<br />

camels' hair tents, their great domed rioks of yellow straw or hay,<br />

their green cactus and agave hedges. We followed along the<br />

oourse of a small river, a branch of the Seboo. In the middle of<br />

the afternoon we approached a range of hills, beyond which are<br />

situated the cities of both Mequinel and Fez, and it beginning to<br />

rain hard we camped as nsual near one of the villages, from<br />

which later on we took two goards. If anything happened to us,<br />

the village to which these men belonged wonld be responsible to<br />

the Sultan for our safety. During the night a horse was stolen<br />

from some one near oor camp, but nothing occurred to oor party.<br />

Always while we are either pitching or breaking camp there are

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