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SIGHTS AND S(JBNB8 IN FEZ. 41<br />

former as a " sleeping partner," for ellCh man owns his own stock<br />

and is in busineBB for himself alone.<br />

In passing from our house to and from the bazaar, we always<br />

glanced in at the many gates of the great mosque of EI Karoubin,<br />

the most important place of worship in Fez. It appeared to be<br />

about four hundred feet square, had very many beautiful gates,<br />

fountains, pavilions and 365 pillars. Its minaret however is surpassed<br />

in height by that of the mosque of Muley Edris, already<br />

referred to as the founder of Fez. The mosque of EI Karoubin<br />

is the correct plooe for women to pray, and, in foot, they are not<br />

allowed in any other. There is a library of ancient books connected<br />

with EI Karoubin, from which several valuable Roman<br />

classics have already come, and more are believed to exist there,<br />

but it is of course impoBBible for any Christian to obtain permission<br />

to search for them. Opposite the mosque is a boys' school.<br />

There are many of these in Fez, and also a university, where<br />

grammar, logic and metaphysics are tsught. Fez was once famous<br />

as a seat of learning, and students flocked to it from many distant<br />

landa.<br />

One afternoon, accompanied by our hoat and his nephew gayly<br />

dressed and mounted upon fiery chargers, we paid a visit to an<br />

Englishman named John H. MIICLean, a general of the Sultan's<br />

army, in which he has now served sixteen years as an instrnctor and<br />

commander. We rode slowly through the filthy streets of the city,<br />

grazing our shins against the houBBB, or drawing np so that all other<br />

horsemen might equeeze past. We finally cr0BB8d by a concrete<br />

bridge the rushing river that biaecta Fez-its" force being ntilised<br />

by numerous mills lining its banks-and then paBBed on between<br />

walla twice our height, mounted as we were, until in a short time<br />

we halted at a gats and entered a beautiful orchard of peoohea,<br />

oranges and pomegranates, filled with flowers, singing birds and<br />

canals of clear running water. As we approached a simple native<br />

houae, General MIICLean came forth to greet us, a short, thick-set<br />

gentleman about fifty years of age, and dreBBed in Moorish costume,<br />

a dark hlue suit, with a much-braided and many-buttoned jooket,<br />

a flowing white cloak, brown leather riding boots and steel spurs,<br />

B red tarboosh and white turban. With his brown akin, beard<br />

worn in native fashion, and fluent Arabic talk, he might readily<br />

have been mistaken for a native. He said he had but a few days<br />

before returned with a part of the army from a raid which the<br />

Sultan" had made upon some of his utterly lawless, non-taxpaying<br />

" I

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