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The romantic East: Burma, Assam, & Kashmir - Khamkoo

The romantic East: Burma, Assam, & Kashmir - Khamkoo

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ASSAM 117<br />

peaks of the Himalayas seen on a clear day N.N.E.<br />

from Nigri Ting ("Slave-girl Hill") are over a<br />

hundred miles away, but they appear to be only a<br />

quarter of that distance. <strong>The</strong> Brahmaputra is<br />

several miles broad after<br />

the rains, but in the cold<br />

weather one bank is<br />

frequently steep<br />

while the<br />

other consists of chars of pure sand left by the<br />

receding flood. <strong>The</strong> steep banks are over-grown<br />

with reeds and grasses, while the borders of the<br />

sand-banks are strewn with black chips guarded by<br />

a tiny wading-bird. <strong>The</strong> banks seem in the clear<br />

air<br />

to be about 10 feet high, and the reeds about<br />

3 feet, when suddenly through an opening at the<br />

base of the reeds walks a full-grown man, and you<br />

find by the comparative height that the banks are<br />

50 to 60 feet high and the reeds from 15 to 18 feet.<br />

Examined with your glasses<br />

the black chips turn<br />

into snub-nosed and sharp-nosed crocodiles (usually<br />

called alligators here), while the wader may be a<br />

bird as tall as a man.<br />

As the Dutch reckoned the run of the canalboats<br />

by the number of pipes smoked, so the<br />

<strong>Assam</strong>ese are said to estimate distances by the<br />

number of "chews." This may<br />

account for the

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