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this space, and specialty publications<br />

Modern Farmer and Outdoor<br />

Magazine have printed glowing<br />

articles and rankings of No. 1 this,<br />

and Top 10 that.<br />

What’s all the fuss about? Food<br />

and Wine named Wetzel, 28, a<br />

Top New Chef in 2012 and last<br />

month he became a semifinalist<br />

as a Rising Star Chef (chefs under<br />

30) in the most prestigious recognition<br />

bestowed in the industry,<br />

the James Beard Award – for the<br />

fourth year in a row. (Last year he<br />

advanced as one of five nominees<br />

for that award.)<br />

All this for Wetzel’s creations<br />

for a once-a-night seating of less<br />

than 40, counting a 10-seat private<br />

dining room, in a tiny old<br />

inn on a tiny island (pop. about<br />

900) at $165 a person for a farmto-table<br />

array of 15 to sometimes<br />

more than 20 servings.<br />

Wetzel and Gibb are ownership<br />

partners in the inn’s operations<br />

that include two other Lummi<br />

Island eateries, the Beach Store<br />

Café and the Taproot Café.<br />

“A group of families were concerned<br />

that this long-time, iconic<br />

local business would close,” Gibb<br />

said, “and an emerging good story<br />

“We saved a legacy….<br />

took over a business losing<br />

half-a-million, retained<br />

the jobs (44), retained and<br />

enhanced the reputation,<br />

while turning it around<br />

and making it profitable.”<br />

–John Gibb, co-owner/managing partner,<br />

The Willows Inn on Lummi Island<br />

(the arrival of Blaine as a chef in<br />

his 20s from the world’s top-rated<br />

restaurant, Noma in Copenhagen,<br />

Denmark) and many jobs would be<br />

lost in Whatcom County.”<br />

He described the situation thus:<br />

“We took over a business losing<br />

half-a-million, we retained the<br />

jobs (44 employees currently), and<br />

retained and enhanced the reputation,<br />

while turning it around and<br />

making it profitable. We didn’t<br />

slash costs or employees, and in<br />

fact did exactly the opposite, and<br />

that’s very difficult to do in this<br />

business.”<br />

Though visitors come largely<br />

from afar, The Willows Inn<br />

remains loyal in every way possible<br />

to the island community where<br />

most of the employees reside. The<br />

restaurants all have contributed<br />

to island nonprofit organizations,<br />

such as the Boys & Girls Club, the<br />

Grange, the Heritage Land Trust,<br />

and others.<br />

To expand business, Gibb said,<br />

the staff will create a new line of<br />

food goods in the Taproot and gift<br />

shop. “Our own amenities, complementary<br />

to our theme,” he said,<br />

“such as canned and preserved<br />

items that maximize what the<br />

island and county have to offer.”<br />

WHATCOMBUSINESSALLIANCE.COM | 45

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