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this space, and specialty publications<br />
Modern Farmer and Outdoor<br />
Magazine have printed glowing<br />
articles and rankings of No. 1 this,<br />
and Top 10 that.<br />
What’s all the fuss about? Food<br />
and Wine named Wetzel, 28, a<br />
Top New Chef in 2012 and last<br />
month he became a semifinalist<br />
as a Rising Star Chef (chefs under<br />
30) in the most prestigious recognition<br />
bestowed in the industry,<br />
the James Beard Award – for the<br />
fourth year in a row. (Last year he<br />
advanced as one of five nominees<br />
for that award.)<br />
All this for Wetzel’s creations<br />
for a once-a-night seating of less<br />
than 40, counting a 10-seat private<br />
dining room, in a tiny old<br />
inn on a tiny island (pop. about<br />
900) at $165 a person for a farmto-table<br />
array of 15 to sometimes<br />
more than 20 servings.<br />
Wetzel and Gibb are ownership<br />
partners in the inn’s operations<br />
that include two other Lummi<br />
Island eateries, the Beach Store<br />
Café and the Taproot Café.<br />
“A group of families were concerned<br />
that this long-time, iconic<br />
local business would close,” Gibb<br />
said, “and an emerging good story<br />
“We saved a legacy….<br />
took over a business losing<br />
half-a-million, retained<br />
the jobs (44), retained and<br />
enhanced the reputation,<br />
while turning it around<br />
and making it profitable.”<br />
–John Gibb, co-owner/managing partner,<br />
The Willows Inn on Lummi Island<br />
(the arrival of Blaine as a chef in<br />
his 20s from the world’s top-rated<br />
restaurant, Noma in Copenhagen,<br />
Denmark) and many jobs would be<br />
lost in Whatcom County.”<br />
He described the situation thus:<br />
“We took over a business losing<br />
half-a-million, we retained the<br />
jobs (44 employees currently), and<br />
retained and enhanced the reputation,<br />
while turning it around and<br />
making it profitable. We didn’t<br />
slash costs or employees, and in<br />
fact did exactly the opposite, and<br />
that’s very difficult to do in this<br />
business.”<br />
Though visitors come largely<br />
from afar, The Willows Inn<br />
remains loyal in every way possible<br />
to the island community where<br />
most of the employees reside. The<br />
restaurants all have contributed<br />
to island nonprofit organizations,<br />
such as the Boys & Girls Club, the<br />
Grange, the Heritage Land Trust,<br />
and others.<br />
To expand business, Gibb said,<br />
the staff will create a new line of<br />
food goods in the Taproot and gift<br />
shop. “Our own amenities, complementary<br />
to our theme,” he said,<br />
“such as canned and preserved<br />
items that maximize what the<br />
island and county have to offer.”<br />
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