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TÓRSHAVN With only 20,000 inhabitants, Tórshavn is not just one of the world’s smallest capitals, but also one of the most charming ones. This dynamic city, with its creative, inno va tive and highly educated population, is the political and cultural hub of the Faroes, and, fond as they are of their traditions and cultural legacy, local residents are also keen to embrace emerging global trends. All this means that Tórshavn offers a fascinating mix of Faroese cultural history and all the amenities you would expect to find in a modern 21 st century capital. The city is a melting pot of old and new. To take in its contrasts, explore Tórshavn starting from its oldest area down by the harbour, Tinganes, where little grass-thatched houses stretch along narrow meandering alleys then stroll up towards the mountainsides, you will find that the residential neighbourhoods grow younger and trendier as you ascend. Set in beautiful surroundings embraced by mountains on the one side and looking out onto the ocean on the other, Tórshavn holds myriad exciting experiences and attractions in store. The bright multi-coloured houses have led visiting journalists to describe the city as one of dreamlike beauty, which could have been taken straight out of a fairy tale. Skansin, the Fort of Tórshavn, was built in 1550 to protect the city from pirates. Today it is hard to imagine how the little watch house and the delicate decorative canons could have saved the city and its residents from pillaging. Fortunately, there is no longer any need for guards patrolling Skansin, nowadays you are more likely to encounter couples on a romantic stroll and children running through the grass or straddling across the canons, which are unlikely to ever be heard again. Tinganes is the old historic area of Tórshavn and, along with Reyni, makes up Tórshavn of old. These neighbourhoods once made up the hub of commerce in the Faroes and, although the city has grown exponentially since then, they remain central to life on the islands, as the superbly preserved charming red and black grass-thatched buildings are today home to the Faroese Government. And this is more than just an administrative quarter, there is still life in the narrow cobbled streets where sights and sounds testify to the lives of the families, who still call this enchanting outpost of history home. Tórshavn’s landmarks include a number of statues, new as old, each with their special story or significance, most were created by local artists – a testament to the creativity and fondness of art the Faroese people. A walk from the harbour up towards the Nordic House will take you past a number of them: head up from the harbour through the town centre, past the old red theatre, then turn into the park along Havnará (Tórshavn river), cross through the local park to the National Gallery of the Faroe Island on its other side and then head for the Nordic House. On this walk, right behind the theatre you will first encounter the statue of Hans Andrias Djurhuus, who was born and bred in the city and in the early 20th century wrote songs and stories that became central to the Faroese identity. When you cross the road and turn onto the river path, you face a fierce dragon rising out of the stream, it was <strong>FAROE</strong> <strong>ISLANDS</strong> S created by Tróndur Patursson, who is known Tórshavn for sculpting magic out of glass. A bit further along you will spot one of the multi-talented Faroese author William Heinesen’s iconic fantasy women. In the heart of the park, you will find the memorial to sailors lost at sea and when you reach the National Gallery, you will be welcomed by the bronze works sculpted by Hans Pauli Olsen that grace the Gallery’s surrounding. The National Gallery of the Faroe Island is home to the world’s largest collection of Faroese art, it is estimated to hold a total of 2600 pieces, most of them Faroese. A visit provides an excellent overview of Faroese art history with works by artists such as Mikines, Ruth Smith, Ingolvur av Reyni, William Heinesen, as well as younger artists, including Hanni Bjartalíð and Edvard Fuglö, to mention a few of the renowned artists whose work is on display here. Last, but not least, the Nordic House experience begins before you even reach it, as you approach you will find that it is reminiscent of an enchanted elven hill shrouded in mystery. Although it hosts a wide variety of events yearround, everything from concerts to plays, lectures and exhibitions, it is an oasis of tranquillity and most certainly a place worth visiting, be it for refreshments at the café, to catch an exhibition or just to experience the architecture and soak up some Nordic culture. The Nordic House cafe is not the only place we would recommend that you get a bite. Tórshavn offers a whole range of dining experiences, there are a number of cosy cafes serving light meals, particularly in the town centre, you could dig into a succulent fish and seafood buffet at Hotel Hafnia, or take lunch in style at the converted harbour warehouse Öström, where you can also acquire arts and crafts from local artisans, for contemporary fusion cooking try Faroese sushi at Etika, or, for an extraordinary culinary experience, head up to restaurant KOKS, which was nomi nated as Restaurant of the Year by the Danish Dining Guide (Den Danske Spiseguide) in 2013. Tórshavn is at the heart of the Faroes and it is very well connected. The capital is an excellent basis from which to explore even the remotest corners of the archipelago. Travelling is easy, so why not head out to the imposing islands where the most amazing experiences and surprises await you. All you have to do is seize the opportunity to explore this modern society steeped in tradition and set in majestic surroundings in the middle of the North Atlantic. 3