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2011 Summer Fancy Food Show - Oser Communications Group

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GOURMET NEWS ■ SEPTEMBER <strong>2011</strong> ■ www.gourmetnews.com SEASONINGS & SPICES UPDATE 3<br />

Spicing up sales<br />

Not to be outdone, spices are racking up<br />

sales as well. Southeast Asian spice blends<br />

are popular, and multicolored peppercorns<br />

are now a staple in kitchens of upscale consumers.<br />

At a more emerging stage is dill<br />

pollen, riding the wave of upscale pickles<br />

and joining fennel pollen as a staple in<br />

chefs’ pantries.<br />

New names to look for include vadouvan,<br />

a French-influenced curry blend, and<br />

berbere, an Ethiopian mix that expands the<br />

African-spice palette beyond harissa and<br />

ras al-hanout.<br />

Also driving growth are perceived health<br />

benefits for certain spices, such as cinnamon<br />

and turmeric. These make them appealing as<br />

ingredients in foods targeting wellness, such<br />

as chais, teas and various tonics. Oregonbased<br />

The Tao of Tea has released a line of<br />

chai concentrates in five blends. A line of<br />

party drinks introduced last year, Prometheus<br />

Springs, is built on capsaicin, the substance<br />

that gives chili its heat.<br />

Amid all the interest, customers are watching<br />

their money. “We sell you any amount<br />

you want, no minimum,” said Bucks Fifth<br />

owner Anne Buck, “And we’re selling a lot<br />

more “pinches” lately.” She points out, however,<br />

that while they are belt-tightening, consumers<br />

still find a way to experiment. Other<br />

sales winners for Buck are curry salt and salt<br />

infused with herbs de provence.<br />

However, Buck’s top online seller is<br />

telling: it is a $14.95 set of the seven hottest<br />

blends in the shop, called “Taste the Pain.”<br />

The latter is a reminder of one other spice<br />

trend: the continuing reign of the ghost pepper.<br />

It seems consumers cannot get enough<br />

of this eye-watering chili, because anything<br />

labeled with it—from Mrs. Renfro’s blockbuster<br />

Ghost Pepper<br />

Salsa to Theo’s sofi-<br />

Gold winning chocolate<br />

bar—just marches<br />

out of the store.<br />

An interesting place<br />

where spices have appeared<br />

is cheese—and<br />

not just Monterey Jack<br />

with jalapenos. British<br />

firm Coombe Castle is<br />

selling well in Central<br />

Market, an upscale Texas retailer, with three<br />

unusual English cheddars: Fiery Spice, Thai<br />

Curry and Harissa.<br />

Extracting value<br />

The quest for flavor extends to the world of<br />

extracts. Vanilla continues to reign, but demand<br />

is growing for unusual tastes.<br />

Just awarded a coveted sofi Gold for Best<br />

Baking Ingredient, Nielsen-Massey’s Madagascar<br />

Bourbon Pure Vanilla Bean Paste<br />

combines the company’s bestselling extract<br />

with real seeds from the vanilla pod. It provides<br />

the distinctive look of vanilla seeds in<br />

a portable, spoonable paste, and can be substituted<br />

measure for measure for extract or<br />

whole vanilla beans.<br />

Bakto Flavors is a New Jersey-based company<br />

that specializes in scientifically extracting<br />

vanilla and other flavors. Its Vanilla<br />

Collection (extract, beans and vanilla cane<br />

sugar) is a strong seller, and owner Daphna<br />

Havkin-Frenkel is excited about a new product<br />

that packages whole coffee beans with vanilla<br />

beans and spices, to be ground together.<br />

The company also does a brisk business in<br />

flavors: its “Original Flavors” is a set of 12<br />

1oz bottles for $34.99, and they can barely<br />

keep it in stock.<br />

The extracts can also be bought individually.<br />

“Surprisingly, the fastest-selling flavors<br />

are exotic ones. ... We sell a lot of apple, cardamom<br />

and rose, though the number one is<br />

mango. Cherry and raspberry, hazelnut and<br />

pistachio have particular uses, and anise is<br />

popular for the holidays. Even our boutique<br />

flavor bergamot is doing well,” says Havin-<br />

Frenkel. The lavender extract is supplied to a<br />

local chocolatier, and citrus and ginger are<br />

popular for drinks.<br />

Vanns Spices has recently revitalized its<br />

line of all-natural extracts, with new flavors<br />

and packaging. “People are using extracts for<br />

much more than baking, for coffees and<br />

drinks,” said Vanns owner Mick Whitlock.<br />

“We saw the need for better-performing extracts,<br />

and wanted to serve the customers<br />

who depend on us.”<br />

Introduced first to valued customers in a<br />

new 2oz. size, the extracts debuted to enthusiastic<br />

response at the <strong>Summer</strong> <strong>Fancy</strong> <strong>Food</strong><br />

<strong>Show</strong>. “We’ve had some great orders, and<br />

are very pleased. Vanilla and almond still<br />

lead, but black walnut and chocolate are<br />

doing great right out of the gate,” says Whitlock.<br />

Cherry is also doing well, reflecting the<br />

current food trend for the flavor.<br />

Extracts are also drawing interest from<br />

an unexpected area: cocktails. Bartenders’<br />

search for uniqueness has resurrected the demand<br />

for bitters, turning the forgotten ingredient<br />

into a hot commodity. Bittermen’s, a<br />

Brooklyn-based manufacturer of “very small<br />

batch bitters and culinary extracts”, makes<br />

six permanent flavors and some seasonal<br />

ones, to enough success that they have<br />

opened both a retail storefront and a bar in<br />

which to taste them. GN

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