LESVOS: The island of nature and culture

Application to Extend
the LESVOS PETRIFIED FOREST
EUROPEAN and GLOBAL GEOPARK
to include the remaining area of LESVOS ISLAND for
membership in the European Geopark Network
LESVOS - GREECE
2009

NATURE AND CULTURE OF LESVOS GEOPARK
LESVOS: The island of nature and culture
Description
Located in NE Aegean sea, Lesvos is the third largest Greek island covering an area
of 1630 km 2 with a population of 100.000 inhabitants.
Map of Lesvos showing the actual Lesvos Petrified Forest European and Global
Geopark.
The island is well known for its antiquities, the medieval castles, its traditional
villages, its culture, the ancient olive groves, the pine forests, the vast variety of birds
and wildflowers, the hot springs and the famous Petrified Forest.
The island is the birthplace of famous people of art and literature like the philosopher
Theophrastus, the singer and guitar-player Arion, Sappho and Alkaeo, Pittako, and
finally, the great painter Jakobidis, the Nobel prize winner Elitis and some other who
made history in their own way.
Lesvos is blessed with award-winning beaches , traditional villages, more varieties of
birds and wildflowers than anywhere in Europe, pine forests, medieval castles, scenic
harbors with cafes and inexpensive seafood restaurants , abundant fish, museums
including two of the finest art museums in Greece, hotels of every class and
category, and some of the warmest, friendliest people in all of Greece.
Lesvos has been a favourite location for artists, writers and romantics. Its natural
attractions include the unique Petrified Forest , the impressive hot springs, and
health inducing spas that are dotted around Lesvos. Many have been in use for
thousands of years for rheumatism, arthritis, gynaecological and dermatological
ailments, as well as kidney and gallstones, neurological ailments, bronchitis and
sciatica. Lesvos' wonderful landscapes can be seen by donkey or horseback, cycling,
jeep, or on foot. If you prefer to be on water there are yachts for charter. The

NATURE AND CULTURE OF LESVOS GEOPARK
numerous festivals held throughout the island of Lesvos, are enjoyed and celebrated
in their traditional ways, with the locals displaying their flair for dancing, drinking and
eating, hours on end, days on end.
The visitor of Lesvos in the spring will be amply rewarded with one of the most
incredible displays of wildflowers and wild birds you will ever see. Lesvos is a main
stop in the migration routes for European birds coming from Africa and has an
amazing variety of local birds. From the fantastic beach town of Skala Eressos to the
progressive yet traditional village of Molyvos whose ancient walls were once
beseiged by Achilles himself, Lesvos is simply amazing in its natural environment,
archaeology, scenery and lifestyle.
History
The rich mythology of the island started when the leader of Lesvos, Makaras, gave
the name of his son-in-law, Lesvos, to the island. During that period the first cities
were founded and were named after Makara's daughters, Mytilini, Issa, Antissa,
Mithimna, Arisbi and Eressos, which was named after the son of Makara, Eresos.
Homer mentions to his poems that the story of the island begun during the first years
of the Trojan War and Brisiida who was the cause of Achilles' anger against
Agamemnon when he stole her from him.
Researches have shown that the island was inhabited since the Neolithic period with
the presence of a remarkable civilization during the period of the copper.
Exhibits show that the island's civilization was influenced by the neighbouring Troy.
The ancient history of the island begun in 546 BC, when the Persians dominated the
island. After a series of battles and revolutions they finally managed to set the island
free in 472 BC by taking part in the Athenian alliance. The Athenians and the
Spartans later dominated Lesvos.
In 88 BC the Romans dominated it. This is the beginning of a period where the island
managed to gain some kind of autonomy from the Pompeio because of the historian
Thepofanis Mitilinaios.
After the division of the Roman Empire and during the Byzantine period, the island
has successively sacked the Slaves, Sarakinous, Venetians and Crusades. The
island was under the domination of Gatelouzos in 1354 where art, education and
trade were developed during his domination.
Biodiversity
The island of Lesvos is a richly endowed land. Its natural beauties, its climate and its
fertile soil have given birth to people with a profound sense of beauty and harmony,
from the depths of antiquity right up to the present. It is not by chance that even
during mythological times Lesvos was known for its flourishing arts.
Due to its reach biodiversity Lesvos island includes three protected areas which
belong to the European Νetwork Natura 2000, “Geras gulf and Mt. Olympus
GR4110005”, “Kalloni gulf wetlands GR4110004” and “Petrified forest - Western
peninsula GR4110003”
In the eastern part of Lesvos a rather moist climate prevails, in comparison with the
rest of the island.
The slopes of Mt. Olympus and the Amalis peninsula dominate the morphology, while
in between them is the tectonic basin of the Gulf of Yera with impressive steep cliffs
on its eastern side.
Plants at lower elevations are typical of Mediterranean maquis plants,
characteristically consisting of evergreen bushes (2-2.5 meters in height) with tough

NATURE AND CULTURE OF LESVOS GEOPARK
leathery leaves adapted to the Mediterranean climatic conditions. These plants
include holly, mastic, wild olives, wild pear etc. At higher elevations on the slopes of
Mt. Olympus, the flora changes to plants which have adapted to the more damp and
cold climatic conditions. Myrtle, laurel, maple etc. grow here, as well as cultivated
tree crops rarely found on Greek islands such as the chestnut groves of Agiassos
and cherry, apple and pear orchards.
In the middle part of the island are located the Kalloni wetland ecosystem covering a
huge expanse that includes many smaller wetlands.
There is an impressive variety of plant life on the island including oak trees, wild
pistachios, wild roses, walnut, almond, fig and apple trees as well as herbs like
Melissa, mint, sage and aniseed. The Rhododendron luteum, can also be found here,
the only place it grows in Europe.
In the middle part of the island are located the Gera and Kalloni wetland ecosystems
covering a huge expanse that includes many smaller wetlands. They are ecosystems
full of salt-pans, rivers, reed bushes, olive groves and pine forests and a very rare
variety of orchids.
The areas are under the protection of the European network Natura 2000. Many
birds, some rare or protected, breed here. Sixty-six species of migratory birds have
been recorded and 68 species of birds live here on a permanent basis including
Flamingo (Phoenicopterus ruber), the Kingfisher (Alcedo atthis), the Avocet
(Recurvirostra avosetta), the Black-winged Stilt (Himantopus himantopus), the Great
White Egret (Egretta alba), the White Stork (Ciconia ciconia), the Black Stork
(Ciconia nigra). There is an information centre and special observatories where one
can observe and not disturb. Also nearby are the wetlands of Polychnitos, home to
the rare species of squirrel (Sciurus anomalus).
The Petrified Forest protected area
On the western part of Lesvos Island, remains of fossil plants appear within volcanic
rocks. The fossils comprise the well-known «Lesvos Petrified Forest», which covers
an area of 15,000 ha. Within this area, several unique palaeo-botanical sites showing
high concentrations of fossilised tree-trunks have been discovered.
The region of the Petrified Forest is characterized by impressive volcanic geotopes,
result of the intense volcanic activity of the past. This region could be characterized
as a window on the geohistoric development of the Aegean over the past 20 million
years.
Due to its great ecological value, a large part of western Lesvos is included in the
“Natura 2000” list of important areas for natural protection in the European Union,
under the name the “Petrified Forest – Western Peninsula of Lesvos” (GR 4110003).
Scientists researching and studying the Petrified Forest speak enthusiastically of the
rarity and great scientific value of the monument and repeatedly emphasize the
uniqueness of the site. There are many reasons for this. The Petrified Forest
constitutes an entire forest ecosystem that was fossilised on the spot because of
intense volcanic activity. The large number of fossilised trunks that have remained
standing upright, with their root system fully developed, confirms that the trees were
fossilised in their original position, thus this is an autochthonous fossilised forest.
The fossilised trees and the parts of the plants have been preserved in excellent
conditions up to the present. The age of the forest and the great variety of fossilised
plant species that have been found contribute to its great scientific value, whereas
the composition of the fossilised flora is a particularly important guide to the climatic
conditions, the environment and the geological conditions at that period.

NATURE AND CULTURE OF LESVOS GEOPARK
The systematic paleobotanical study of the petrified tree trunks and fossilised leaves
enables the determination of the genus and species of the plants that made up the
forest of Lesvos 20 million years ago.
At the area of Gavathas, in northwestern Lesvos, findings of the oldest known land
mammal in Greece, Prodeinotherium bavaricum (first appearance of the family in
Europe) have been recovered.
At the Petrified Forest, we can gather information regarding the plant species which
constituted the island’s flora, the climatic and geological conditions that prevailed in
the Aegean area 20 millions years ago. In other words, the Petrified Forest
constitutes a unique ‘’testimonial’’ of the geological history of the Aegean basin over
the past 20 million years.
The Lesvos Petrified Forest is a member of the UNESCO's Global Geoparks
Network and a founding member of the European Geoparks Network.
Legal Protection
Recognizing the great environmental, geological and palaeontological value of the
Petrified Forest of Lesvos, the Greek State has initiated a series of actions for its
protection. The first Ministerial decision of the Minister of Culture was published on
31 January 1958 characterizing the Petrified Forest of Lesvos as a specially
protected region.
The expropriation of two regions of 500 acres each (at Bali Alonia and Hamandroula),
containing a large number of fossilized trunks, occurred in 1965 with the decision of
the Minister of Agriculture.
In 1985, on the proposal of the Ministry of Agriculture, the "Petrified Forest" is
declared a Protected Natural Monument (PD 443/85). With this decree, one marine
and four land sections are protected. These sections cover a large area of 150.000
acres in the regions of Sigri, Antissa and Eressos, the marine section around the islet
of Nisiopi or Megalonisi and four land regions as well as individual appearances of
fossilized trunks. Under this law, excavation, embankment, sampling of ground and
geological sublayers and other actions that could cause the deterioration and
alteration of the geological shape of the landscape, as well as the cutting, collection,
destruction or transport of fossils, is strictly prohibited.
In 1996 the Forest Police Provision regulates areas of the Petrified Forest declared
Protected Natural Monuments. The Natural History Museum of the Petrified Forest of
Lesvos is founded by law (Law 2260/94) in 1994, its aim being the study, research,
promotion, maintenance, protection, conservation, and correct use of the Petrified
Forest. Presidential Degree 183/95 (96/A/30-5-1995) established its operation
regulations.
In 1999 (Law 2742/99 and 3044/02), the institutional framework for the protection of
natural regions of European Importance through the "Natura 2000 Network" is
created, following the E.U. directive (92/43/EC). The region of the Petrified Forest is
included among the regions that constitute the National List of the Natura 2000
Network, after it was included in the Western Peninsula Lesvos - Petrified Forest
region (code GR 4110003).
In these regions, the maintenance of natural ecotopes as well as wild fauna and flora
is promoted. The area is more specifically divided into regions containing types of
ecotopes identified in E.U directives, which should be maintained or, potentially, reestablished
to a satisfactory level of maintenance, ecotopes of priority, as well as
types of flora and fauna.

NATURE AND CULTURE OF LESVOS GEOPARK
An area of 34.000 Hectares in the region has been proposed for characterization as
an Area of Special Protection for Birds (Special Protected Area) according to the No.
4 Directive on Birds (79/409/EOK). The proposed region has the code "GR134:
South-western Peninsula-Petrified Forest of Lesvos "and it follows along the western
seashores of the island and its north to south border follows the imaginary line that
links the settlements of Lapsarna, Ligeri, the Perivoli Monastery, Vatoussa, Revma,
the heights of Mitero Mountain and Parakila. The region has been characterized
already as an Important Region for Birds (SPP).
Six locations in the region have been characterized as wildlife refuges by the Forestry
Department of the Ministry of Rural Development and Food.
Region
Extent (str.)
Skamniouda, Antissa 6000
Petrified Forest, Sigri 8000
Deep valley - Kelemia, Antissa 4000
Nisiopi or Megalonisi of Sigri 800
Mesoros - Agra 6000
Maliontas - Tavari Hrousos, Mesotopo 9000
In 1997, the Official Newspaper of the European Communities (l240/19-9-1997)
published the Convention on the protection of the Mediterranean from pollution,
namely the Convention of Barcelona, with which the coastal area of the Petrified
Forest is protected.
The areas of the park of the Petrified Forest Geopark were fenced off, trails were
carved and constructed into the terrain, allowing the visitor to access and view the
petrified trunks.
In addition, access roads, parking area, guard posts, snack bar, kiosks, cobblestone
paths, rest points with wooden benches, stone water fountains and toilet facilities
have been built. Local stone and wood are the principle construction materials
employed for any structures in the Parks.
A series of trekking paths, which link the various sites of interest together (fossil sites,
volcanoes, natural, cultural and archaeological monuments), has been created by the
Natural History Museum of the Lesvos Petrified Forest. These trekking networks are
known as “The lava paths” and “The olive paths”.
Along the paths, appropriate rest areas have been constructed near sites of particular
interest (petrified trunks, volcanic craters, major geological faults, etc.). Signs provide
visitors with relevant information.
The creation of a Geo-Center located at the Museum in Sigri, decentralized
Information pavilions in Eresos, Gavathas and Messotopos villages and Geo-trails
with explanation boards in the fossil sites and in the volcanic areas have been
founded. The Geo-centre has all high-tech information systems, such as computers
with CD equipment, videos, seminar rooms with all audio-visual equipment, as well
as a standard library with literature on fossil plants, volcanism etc.

NATURE AND CULTURE OF LESVOS GEOPARK
NATURA 2000 protected areas
Map of the Protected areas of Lesvos Island.
In the eastern part of Lesvos a rather moist climate prevails, in comparison with the
rest of the island. The slopes of Mt. Olympus and the Amalis peninsula dominate the
morphology, while in between them is the tectonic basin of the Gulf of Yera with
impressive steep cliffs on its eastern side. The rocks are mainly 300 million year old
metamorphic rocks, such as the marble and schist, while on the Amalis peninsula
one can find ophiolites.
Plants at lower elevations are typical of Mediterranean maquis plants,
characteristically consisting of evergreen bushes (2-2.5 meters in height) with tough
leathery leaves adapted to the Mediterranean climatic conditions. These plants
include holly, mastic, wild olives, wild pear etc. At higher elevations on the slopes of
Mt. Olympus, the flora changes to plants which have adapted to the more damp and
cold climatic conditions. Myrtle, laurel, maple etc. grow here, as well as cultivated
tree crops rarely found on Greek islands such as the chestnut groves of Agiassos
and cherry, apple and pear orchards. Pine forests can be found on the Amalis
peninsula.
A large part of the eastern side of the island is covered by olive groves which blanket
the hills and slopes, supported by impressive dry stonewall terraces. From a distance
the border between the silver grey leaves of the olives and the dark green maquis
plants and pines is quite noticeable. This ecosystem sustains a wealth of birds,
reptiles, insects and mammals.
The Gulf of Yera with the Dipi Marsh and Mt. Olympus make up one of the three
regions of the island which are part of a network of natural conservation called
“NATURA 2000”.

NATURE AND CULTURE OF LESVOS GEOPARK
In the central part of the island, and especially around the Gulf of Kalloni, the climate
becomes drier and there are plains with wheat, hay and vegetable fields.
This region contains the largest gulf of the island, the Gulf of Kalloni. To the east and
north of the Gulf of Kalloni, there are large mature pine forests which coincide with
the borders of the ophiolitic remnants of the oceanic crust of Tethys.
In the coastal area around the gulf there are 17 natural and artificial wetlands such as
the salt flats which consist of a very important system that hosts significant numbers
of water birds, both migratory and non-migratory, of international interest. The area is
inundated every spring by birdwatchers from all over the world.
The Gulf of Kalloni is one of three regions of the island which are part of a network of
natural conservation called “NATURA 2000”.
In the western part of the island, where the Petrified Forest is located, the climatic
conditions change and become drier (approaching that of the Cycladic islands), the
rocks are volcanic and the mountain slopes of Mt. Ordymnos dominate the
morphology of the area.
The flora in this part of the island is typical of Mediterranean frigana plants. The
dominant plants are small round and thorny bushes between the craggy rocks. This
kind of island flora, also found on other Aegean islands, initially seems dry and bare
looking. On closer inspection however the observer will notice a dense variety of
plants and animals.
Thorny burnet, euphorbia sp., prickly broom, and greater knapweed constitute a
continuous and thick layer of plants, which together with the rocks is virtually
impassable for a hiker. For the frigana micro-environment, spring and early summer
brings the blooming of a wide variety of plants such as orchids, the thirty different
types of which impress the observer with eccentric shades of color. In amongst these
plants there are also many fruit and insect-eating, as well as predatory, birds, rabbits,
mice, turtles, impressive lizards, snakes and many more organisms which are wellhidden
in between the plants and rocks. Later in the summer, a wide variety of prickly
herbaceous plants and well-known thistles bloom.
The oak forests are also impressive in this region. Their acorns, once used for trade,
supported the economic life of the island at one point. This area is also criss-crossed
by seasonal streams with flowering plants growing on their banks. In spring, blooming
oleanders and rhododendrons and light up the region with their pink and yellow
blossoms.
On this side of the island, the careful and observant hiker may also come upon
pieces of petrified trees among the rocks, bushes and volcanic ash. This area is one
of three areas of the island which are part of a network of natural conservation called
“NATURA 2000”.
Castles and Archaeological sites.
The Molyvos Castle : The castle that crowns the heights of the town is from
Byzantine times and was later repaired by Francesco Gattelusi. In terms of majesty
and size it is the second most impressive on the island. During the summer months it
is used for concerts and cultural events.
The Mytilini Castle: The castle located on the north side of Mytilini and overlooks the
city is one of the largest in the eastern Mediterranean. It's foundations were laid
during the time of Justinian on the ruins of an even older fortification which can still
be seen in sections of the walls. It has been used and rebuilt by the Romans,
Byzantines, Venetians and the Turks and is now used in the summer for cultural

NATURE AND CULTURE OF LESVOS GEOPARK
events. There is a Roman or Byzantine reservoir with a 4,000 cubic meter capacity.
There are also underground tunnels which cover a large area beneath the castle and
the hill.
The Roman Aqueduct at Moria: Approximately 600 meters to the west of the village
of Moria rise up the impressive arches of the great aqueduct built by the Romans. It
is the remains of a fantastic technical achievement of the first 3 centuries AD, which
began in the region of Agiassos and passed through the villages of Lambou Myloi
and Larsos, supplying Mytilini with water.
Christian Temple of Chalinados: On the agricultural region of Chalinados, about 1
hour from Agia Paraskevi, are imposing ruins of an early Christian basilica of Agios
Georgios which was restored by professor A. Orlandos in 1937. It was originally a
three-aisled basilica with a timber roof.
The Bridge at Kremasti near Agia Paraskevis was built at the time of the Gattilusi
families rule over the island between 1355 and 1462. Made entirely of stone, the
bridge is a wonder of traditional architecture and is still used today. Many of Lesvos
ancient sites are in the vicinity of Agia Paraskevis.
The Ancient Theatre in Mytilini: High up in the north side of town in the pine grove
is the ancient theatre. It was one of the largest in Greece with room for 15,000
spectators, considered on a par with the theatre at Epidavros. It was built in
Hellenistic times though by whom is not known. It was repaired by the Romans.
When Pompei visited the island he was so excited about the theatre that he ordered
a similar one built in Rome.
The Yeni Mosque: This mosque in upper Skala is an example of Turkish
architecture with distinct Greek features. It is in the north part of Mytilini town where
first the Romans and then the Turks lived. It was built between 1823 and 1828 and
today has been refurbished and used as an exhibition hall.
Ancient Antissa: Located on peninsula between two bays near Skalahori, this site
can most easily be reached by going towards Gavatha and following the signs. There
are the remains of medieval walls and a fortress. There are also columns and pieces
of marble scattered around the valley near a small church that overlooks the beach. I
assume that most of ancient Antissa lies unexcavated beneath the soil.
The Sigri Castle:This castle was built in 1757 by the Turks during their occupation of
the island. It sits on a small peninsula above the harbour with a view of the beach
and the town. There is no entrance fee and visitors are free to wander around and
explore. There are great tavernas and an excellent beach nearby so you can make a
day of it. Also nearby is the Petrified forest.
Klopedi Temple: Accessible on a trail from the village of Agia Paraskevis there are
traces of an Aeolian Temple dedicated to the god Apollo.
Messa Temple : An Aeolian centre of worship with some remains of an Ionic temple
pavilion. Situated near the salt plains of Kaloni. if you are driving the main road from

NATURE AND CULTURE OF LESVOS GEOPARK
Mytilini to Kaloni it's on the right a few minutes after you reach the valley. Follow the
dirt road until you come to a small settlement and can't go any further.
Church of Saint Andrew: In Eressos there are the ruins of the Church of Saint
Andrew which dates back to the first half of the 5th century AD. Next to it is the
archaeological museum with relics of life from the archaic era up to Byzantine times.
Nearby on the hill of Vigla is the Hellenic polygonal wall, ruins of a medieval castle, a
Roman cistern, two turrets and one Genovese.
Ancient Pyrra: One of the 5 ancient cities of Lesvos. Located near Achladeri,
remains can be seen of the town which was destroyed by an earthquake.
Monasteries and Churches
Many of the old Monasteries of Lesvos are still in use. Some have become
destinations for pilgrimages while others carry on the spiritual traditions of long ago.
Leimonos Monastery, built in 1523 is a large cluster of buildings between Kaloni
and Filia. It is an important spiritual centre on the island with a museum, a library and
social services. Overnight stays are possible. In Agiassos the Virgin Mary is
venerated and everything revolves around the miracle working icon of the Blessed
Virgin Vrefokratousa and the Church of the Panagia. During a two week period
leading up to the 15th of August, which is the Holy Day of the Virgin Mary, pilgrims
begin flocking to the town not only from Lesvos but all over Greece, slowly building
up to a carnival-like atmosphere, peaking on the eve of the feast day. There is
another festival on September 14th commemorating the day when the Holy cross
which Mytilinians brought back from Jerusalem after it was consecrated on Golgotha.
Agathon's Cross was made with wood from the True Cross and is kept in the
museum of the church. In Mandamados at the Church of Taxiarches, the miracle
working saint of the island is worshipped. The carved icon was made by a monk
using mud and the blood of his fallen comrades after being miraculously saved by
Saracen pirates. The church celebrates on the third Sunday after Easter with a
festival that includes the slaughtering of a consecrated bull whose meat is shared
among the worshippers. Another religious celebration is held here on the third
Sunday after Easter. Ypsilou Monastery is built on the crater of a dormant volcano.
This monastery was built in 1101. It houses some remarkable gold embroided stoles
and bible covers from 1588. It is located on the road to Sigri right past the turnoff to
Eressos. From it's heights you can see the coast of Asia Minor and all of the western
portion of the island.
Glykofylousa Panagia (Our Lady of the Sweet Kiss) sits on top of a giant rock in the
centre of the town of Petra. You reach the top of the rock by climbing the 114 steps
carved into the stone. From the church the view of Petra and the surrounding sea
and countryside is spectacular extending all the way to the coast of Asia Minor. A
beautiful legend concerning the building of the church on this high rock has come
down to us: In days of old a storm bought a religious captain to the shores of the
area. One morning the captain noticed that the Icon of the Blessed Virgin, which he
always had with him, was missing. He looked for it everywhere but to no avail. That
evening he saw a strange light shining seemingly suspended between sky and earth.
He climbed up the rock and found his icon placed before a lighted lamp. He took it
back to his boat but again it disappeared and again he found it on top of the rock. He
decided to build a small church there since that was obviously the wish of the
Blessed Virgin. The first church was built in 1609 and the present one in 1747. There

NATURE AND CULTURE OF LESVOS GEOPARK
is a great celebration there on August 15th. Below the rock is the tiny Church of
Agios Nikolaos. Inside, the small church is decorated with 16th century wall paintings
that are colourful and inspirational and worth a trip to the village.
Transportation
Lesvos is easily reachable by ferry or jet from Athens and charter flights from many
European cities.
Sailing to Lesvos. There are daily ships between Mytilini and Pireaus. The ferries
also stop in the port of Chios for an hour or so. In the summer there is a boat from
Lavrion to Sigri that takes about 6 hours and there is at least one boat a day leaving
Pireaus for Chios and Mytilini, sometimes more. Several days a week the ferry
continues on to Lemnos, Kavala and Thessaloniki. In the summer there is a boat that
connects Lesvos with the Dodekanese islands and Samos and sometimes Ikaria.
There are daily boats in the summer and several boats a week in the offseason
between Mytilini and Avalik in Turkey.
Flying to Lesvos. There is a jet port with at least daily flights to and from Athens.
There are also daily flights from Thessaloniki and other points in Europe.