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western-queensland-gardening-guide.pdf - South West NRM

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My experience shows that planting should be slightly deeper than the soil level in<br />

the tube pot, the reason being that the soil in the pot is a porous nursery mix and if<br />

planted at ground level the sun pulls the moisture out of this nursery mix before the<br />

plant can get its roots down. Also the soil tends to subside somewhat. If you do not<br />

use a grader or post hole digger but use a crowbar, loosen the soil wider and deeper<br />

than the pot size and put the same soil back around it.<br />

Watering<br />

Water availability and the method of wateringShas to be number one in growing a<br />

tree or plant. My observations are that generally people water too often and not<br />

thoroughly or wide enough and that most palms and indoor plants are overwatered.<br />

The easiest systems of watering are flooding, use of drippers and<br />

sprinklers.<br />

Flooding<br />

Flooding is really only available to people with flowing bores. A fair bit of this is<br />

being done in the north west. My observations of these projects are that most are<br />

flooded too often and that those without mulching are more successful. This is<br />

because over time the mulch resting against the tree trunk causes the trunk to rot<br />

and the tree to die.<br />

Drippers<br />

There are a big range of drippers but I like the adjustable types because if one plant<br />

is not getting enough you can increase the flow or turn it down. I have also noticed<br />

that some people run their supply line longer than their volume of water can handle,<br />

which means the first on the line get plenty and the bottom end gets nothing.<br />

I<br />

Generally you can only afford one supply line with the dripper put in near the tree,<br />

which in many cases means the tree only gets watered on one side. A solution is to<br />

have a loop around each tree and a dripper on either side, although this costs a little<br />

more. As trees grow, extra drippers can be added further from the bee.<br />

Sprinklers<br />

In my opinion the so-called "knocker" type gives a better penetration, compared to<br />

upright sprays that have a lot more run-off.<br />

One problem with sprinklers, especially with bore water where there are natives and<br />

shrubs in the spray line, is that foliage and bark get burnt off.<br />

There is an instrument called a moisture meter that can be pushed into the soil<br />

around the root zone to show the moisture in that area. A lot of people see the top<br />

soil dry and water, while the root area is well over-wet. These moisture meters cost<br />

around $20 but save hundreds.

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