western-queensland-gardening-guide.pdf - South West NRM

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Chapter 1. Gardening with bore water The first thing to remember when using bore water is that it may change the structure of the soil. This is because bore water is generally high in salts and extremely alkaline. Soil types The main soil types found in gardens in western Queensland are the sandy soils, sandy loams and clays. Sandy soils are usually well drained and of a light, free texture. They are very easy to manage when using bore water because, the salts in the bore water are so readily leached out. The only physical problem encountered is the low water-holding capacity. This can be easily rectified by the addition of organic matter like leaf mould, flood debris, hay or compost. Sandy soils are generally acidic but, like all soils, the pH is governed by the type of water being used. In this soil it is relatively easy to control any excess alkalinity by the addition of sulphur. In the Charleville, Eulo and Bollon areas, mulga soil is very common. This sandy loam is naturally very acidic and infertile but with good quality dam or river water, appropriate fertilisers, and organic matter it can become quite a useful horticultural soil. Bore water can make sandy loams become alkaline and the surface can set as hard as concrete and become impervious to water. This is caused by a chemical reaction between the salts in the bore water and the salts in the soil. The combination of mulga soil and bore water therefore needs special cultural practices and careful selection of plant species. Clays are common soil types in the Longreach, Winton, Richmond, Camooweal, Isisford, Blackall, Cunnamulla and Augathella areas. They are fairly fertile and usually alkaline and when bore water is added to these soils they quickly become very alkaline. Like the mulga soils, clays set very hard which impedes the infiltration of n rain falls, the drainage is seldom good enough to allow leaching of the salts present in the soil and concentrated by the use of bore water. Therefore clay soils are possibly the most difficult soils to manage. The application of bore water is a very critical point of gardening. Probably the best advice is to use as little as possible. ere practical, use those plants with a low water requirement or which are adaptable to salty or alkaline conditions. Where other species are required reduce the amount of water needed as much as possible by the use of mulches to reduce the ount of evaporation loss, which in the western Queensland climate can be enormous.
If large amounts of water are required, it is best supplied at less frequent intervals as it helps to wash the salts down away from the feeder roots. Sprinkling for only a few minutes every day only helps to concentrate the salts in the root zone. A good flood once a week is better than a little each day. Where a drip system is already in use, it is usually better to increase the rate of flow, let the plants have a good water, then turn it off and repeat it in a week's time. Salty water is best applied to the ground rather than the foliage. Where spray application is necessary -such as lawns -it is better to water at night to minimise the salt burn on the leaves due to evaporation. In sandy soils, the occasional very heavy watering to leach out salts is beneficial. The pH of the soil is a measure of its acidity or alkalinity. The pH is divided into 14 points, with 7 being the neutral point. Below 7 the soil becomes increasingly acidic (sour) and above 7 increasingly alkaline (sweet). The relative acidity or alkalinity increases tenfold with each point; for example, pH of 8 is ten times more alkaline than a pH of 7 and a pH of 9 is one hundred times more alkaline than a pH of 7. The pH is a good indicator of soil nutrient availability. The best range is between 6.5 and 7.5. Further up or down the scale from pH 7 certain nutrients become unavaiIable (see Figure 1) 4 Alkaline NITROGEN Figure 1. Soil pH range and the effects on plant nutrient availability (a thicker line indicates greater availability of the nutrient)
Page 1 and 2: Information Series QI96050 Gardenin
Page 3: Acknowledgments This booklet is mad
Page 8 and 9: At the neutral pH level, that is 7,
Page 10 and 11: Sulphur can also be a very useful w
Page 12 and 13: Table 1. Recommended pH range a. Fl
Page 14 and 15: Table 2. Australian native plants s
Page 16 and 17: B. Exotic trees, shrubs and creeper
Page 18 and 19: Table 5. Species lists for heavylcl
Page 20 and 21: Chapter 2. Growing better lawns Kee
Page 22 and 23: Some of the fertilisers will absorb
Page 24 and 25: fertilised regularly to promote vig
Page 26 and 27: Suitable species This is a big subj
Page 28 and 29: A lot of people water pot plants by
Page 30 and 31: Preparing the hole Dig a hole about
Page 32 and 33: Ferti Iiser A small application of
Page 34 and 35: Plant into deep soil moisture Good
Page 36 and 37: The tree's growing space extends ar
Page 38 and 39: Mulching: For mulching to be effect
Page 40 and 41: Particulars for mulch application S
Page 42 and 43: Fertilising native trees Most nativ
Page 44 and 45: Table 7. Types of fertiliser Note:
Page 46 and 47: Figure 18. Simple home-made guards
Page 48 and 49: Chapter 5. Propagation of trees and
Page 50 and 51: Gently water in the seed and keep i
Page 52 and 53: Fertilising: It is necessary to sup
Page 54 and 55: Follow safety warnings Most materia
Page 56 and 57:
mite wax scale White wax scale (Gra
Page 58 and 59:
Vegetables Insect pests of curctrrb
Page 60 and 61:
Caterpillars or grubs on vegetables
Page 62 and 63:
Roses and other flowers Dieback in
Page 64 and 65:
an eye dropper or an oil can, injec
Page 66 and 67:
I!OS JaAO 6!p pU@ s~)!uJ~) leya~eur
Page 68 and 69:
Chapter 8: ich pesticide to use (Ad
Page 70 and 71:
Table 12. The easy guide to chemica
Page 72 and 73:
Nicotine spray This spray has been
Page 74 and 75:
&e%tuce This deters most insects. I
Page 76 and 77:
Index Aphids 54 Ants 18 Australian
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