feature Why quality skincare works There are certain things surgery can’t help with, <strong>and</strong> clear, healthy <strong>and</strong> uniform skin is one of these. That’s where the benefits of a quality medical-grade skincare regime can be invaluable. AimÉe Surtenich reports. 140 www.cosbeauty.com.au
feature Decoding skincare Retinol Retinol is a Vitamin A (retinoic acid) derivative that is a safe, effective <strong>and</strong> widely used anti-ageing solution. Retinoids encourage better cell turnover in the upper layers, normalising skin turnover. Hyaluronic acid Hyaluronic acid (HA) is used in hundreds of anti-ageing products due to its fast-working moisturising properties. Leading dermatologists recommend patients invest in a good anti-ageing moisturiser with HA, which is also found naturally in skin. Vitamin C Famously linked to vitamin pills <strong>and</strong> oranges, its goodness is now found in beauty products, too. Vitamin C is an antioxidant that works to prevent free radical damage. These are volatile molecules so look for a stabilised Vitamin C product to help reinforce the skin’s own defences <strong>and</strong> prevent long-term damage. Vitamin B Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) has really come to the fore in the anti-ageing war, taking its place alongside skincare veterans Vitamins A, C <strong>and</strong> E. Typically used in serum form, Vitamin B3 can effectively treat acne, fade hyperpigmentation <strong>and</strong> improve the skin barrier functions, as well as help reduce fine lines <strong>and</strong> wrinkles. It provides antioxidant properties for the skin <strong>and</strong> it has also been shown to have anti-inflammatory <strong>and</strong> healing properties, as well as help reduce skin sensitivity. Arguably the most important aspect of beauty is clear <strong>and</strong> healthy skin. Indeed, there is a new school of thought that a radiant, even complexion is a greater signifier of youth <strong>and</strong> beauty than a wrinkle-free face. The reason? Plump, healthy skin reflects light more uniformly (which the eye is attracted to), resulting in a homogeneous, more even complexion that appears to glow. So how do we significantly improve the appearance <strong>and</strong> function of our skin? Step in medical-grade skincare, which is specifically formulated to improve the quality <strong>and</strong> texture of skin, alleviating signs of ageing such as fine lines, pigmentation, skin tone <strong>and</strong> texture. Available in-salon <strong>and</strong> typically prescribed by a skincare professional, these ‘cosmeceuticals’ represent the marriage of cosmetics <strong>and</strong> pharmaceuticals. What sets them apart is that they contain ingredients, at the right doses <strong>and</strong> in the right delivery systems, to influence the biological function of the skin. Cosmeceuticals have benefits beyond those of traditional products. They also improve appearance, but they do so by delivering nutrients <strong>and</strong> typically claim to improve skin tone, texture <strong>and</strong> radiance, while reducing wrinkling. Cosmeceuticals can improve the function of the skin <strong>and</strong> may be helpful in preventing premature ageing. Examples include hydroxy acids, retinoids <strong>and</strong> antioxidants such as Vitamins A, B <strong>and</strong> C. Gone are the days when skincare need only sit on the surface of your skin <strong>and</strong> not work at the cellular level. These topical skincare formulations contain active ingredients which enable them to act on the skin’s cellular structure. In some cases, such as exfoliants, this action is limited to the surface of the skin, while other formulations can penetrate to deeper levels <strong>and</strong> enhance or inhibit natural activities. Many br<strong>and</strong>s have poured millions of dollars into research <strong>and</strong> development, employing highly skilled biochemists <strong>and</strong> scientists to create new products delivered in formulations designed to enhance their capabilities <strong>and</strong> the appearance of the skin at the same time. What to look for in cosmeceutical products are antioxidants, exfoliants, cellcommunicating <strong>and</strong> skin-lightening ingredients, <strong>and</strong> intercellular substances that mimic skin structure. For the products to work, these need to be at sufficient concentrations <strong>and</strong> synergies to allow them to retain their active properties. Essential ingredients to look out for Cosmeceutical products contain ingredients that induce healing <strong>and</strong> other changes in skin cells. Research shows that benefits for the skin can also be obtained from plant extracts <strong>and</strong> essential oils as well as vitamins, enzymes, phytochemicals <strong>and</strong> more. Antioxidants reduce free-radical damage <strong>and</strong> inflammation, counteracting cellular damage, collagen destruction <strong>and</strong> immune suppression. Antioxidants in combination, studies suggest, can exert a cumulative synergistic action on the skin that is more effective than single-ingredient formulations. Cell-communicating ingredients use receptor sites or cellular pathways to interact with skin cells to signal them to function optimally. Retinoids, which are derivatives of Vitamin A, are the best known. They act as antioxidants <strong>and</strong> neutralise the free radicals that result from exposure to ultraviolet light. In addition, they increase cellular turnover, stimulate a thickening of the epidermis <strong>and</strong> promote the removal of excess pigment. Other cell-communicating ingredients include peptides, which were developed for use in skincare to either increase the production of collagen or to reduce its breakdown. www.cosbeauty.com.au 141