Formal wear origins

TTACKING
Another term for basting where a stitch – usually handsewn
but sometimes done by machine, holds the fabric
in place prior to sewing.
TAILOR’S DICTIONARY
T – V
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Tacking – the front of the jacket has the tacking stitches to show the seam lines
TAILOR TALK (SLANG TERMS)
BALLOON – having a week without work or pay
BASTE – a garment assembled for the first fitting
BLOCK – a standard pattern for cutting a suit
BODGER – bad craftsman
BUNCE – a perk of the trade, for example left-over cloth
to sell on
CABBAGE – left-over material
CODGER – a tailor who refurbishes old suits
CORK – the boss
CRUSHED BEETLES – bad buttonholes
DARKY – sleeve board
DRUMMER – trouser maker
HIP STAY – the wife
KIPPER – a tailoress – they usually work in pairs to avoid
amourous tailors
THIMBLE
A Tailor’s Thimble is a metal open-topped cone
worn to protect the middle finger when pushing the
needle through the fabric.
Thimble – a tailor’s thimble
THREAD MARKING
Temporary stitches to mark the fitting lines of a
bespoke garment. Also used to mark key positions
such as pockets and darts by using threads inserted
through the plies of fabric.
TOLERANCE
Ease or allowance made for movement over and
above the actual body measurement.
MANGLE – sewing machine
MUNGO – cloth cuttings
ON THE COD – gone drinking
PIGGED – a lapel that turns up after wear like a pig’s ear
PORK – a rejected suit that another customer may buy
SCHMUTTER – poor quality cloth
SKIFFLE – a rushed job
TAB – a difficult customer
TROTTER – the fetcher and carrier, usually the
youngest member of staff
UMSIES – someone being discussed whom the speaker
does not want to name because he is present
WHIPPING THE CAT – travelling round and working
in private houses
TOP STITCHING
Exposed stitching sewn at a specific distance from the
seam for reinforcement or decoration.
TOPSIDE
The front section of a pair of trousers.
TRIMMINGS
The component parts of a garment other than the
main fabric.
TRY-ON
The individual fitting of a garment for the purpose of
confirming the size, shape and fit before the garment is
completed.
TUCK
A fold of fabric sewn at an equal distance from the
folded edge of the fabric.
TURN-UPS
The finished look of trouser hems by turning up a
proportion of the fabric. Also called PTU, Permanent
Turn Up.
U
UNDERCOLLAR
The part of the jacket
collar which is under
the main (top) collar
and usually made from
Melton cloth. This part
of the collar is only seen
when it is turned up.
TAILOR’S DICTIONARY
Undercollar
UNDERPRESSING
The pressing operations carried out during the
assembly of the garment. For example, pressing open
the seams.
UNDERSIDES
The back section of a pair of trousers.
V
VENT
A short opening into the hem and cuff of a jacket
or coat.
VEST
In the tailoring trade this a term used to as an
alternative for waistcoat. A sleeveless garment worn
under a jacket as a part of a three piece suit, ie;
jacket, vest and trousers.
Vest (waistcoat)
Text: Alan Cannon-Jones
Illustrations: Helen Cannon-Jones & Mohsin Ali
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