Formal wear origins

© Scabal © Scabal
FORMAL MORNING DRESS
ETIQUETTE & ATTIRE
MORNING COAT
Jacket from the Royal collection by Scabal - reference 702631
Trousers from the Festival collection by Scabal - reference 851764
Waistcoat from the Festival collection by Scabal - reference 851762
AMERICAN OR BRITISH? SPOT THE RIGHT
TRADITION
The differences between Bond and Barack’s evening wear
typify a similar contrast between British and American
formal day wear. As weddings in the United States migrated
to late afternoon affairs to allow for evening dinner and
dance receptions Americans began to consider the tuxedo
as standard wedding attire. And since they were content
to wear suits to all other important daytime functions the
concept of formal daytime clothes became unknown among
the general public. Meanwhile, in Britain (and parts of the
Continent) morning and afternoon weddings remain the
norm and so does the corresponding tradition of morning
dress. It is worn by grooms, groomsmen and guests at
formal church weddings as well as for formal daytime events
in the presence of The Queen such as Royal Ascot and
Trooping the Colour. Like the evening dress codes, morning
dress requirements were traditionally implied rather than
stated but even the most conventional etiquette authorities
now acknowledge that the literal route is the safest one.
Sartorially speaking, the Americans dropped the ball on
this one. All-black tailcoat and tuxedo suits may appear
debonair in the dark but they are deathly in daylight as
evidenced by their traditional association with mourning.
Morning dress, on the other hand, utilizes a variety of tones
and patterns and even colors to enliven its appearance while
still maintaining an appropriately formal nature.
KEEP IT SIMPLE
As with evening dress, there are two categories of morning
dress. The most formal and most common type features
a black or sometimes dark gray morning coat (cutaway
in American English) which is a single-breasted tailcoat
that closes with one button beneath which the coat fronts
gradually slope away from each other. It is usually made of
wool but with a herringbone weave to add visual interest.
Like its evening counterpart its skirt typically ends just
behind the knees and features a long center vent, has peaked
lapels (although self-faced) and no waist pockets.
HIGH CUT TROUSERS WITHOUT CUFFS
There are a great variety of black, white and gray patterned
trousers acceptable for morning dress but the most formal
and most commonly associated are made of black-striped
dark gray material commonly known as a cashmere design.
As with full-dress, trousers do not have cuffs and should
be cut high enough for their waistband to be covered by a
relatively short waistcoat.
FORGET STIFF-WING COLLAR
The shirt may have a white or pale colored body but the
turndown collar should be white and preferably of the stiff,
detachable type to lend it an air of formality. The bodies do not
have bosoms or stud holes but the sleeves should have French
cuffs. Although technically correct, the stiff-wing collar shirt is
notably old-fashioned and discouraged by most authorities.
PERSONALIZE YOUR WAISTCOAT
There is also considerable variety allowed for the waistcoat.
It can be single- or double-breasted and while traditionally
light gray or buff, pale colors are allowed for a more modern,
youthful take.
THE RIGHT TIE ON THE RIGHT COLLAR
With the turndown collar a four-in-hand tie is worn while
a wing collar calls for a dress cravat (dress ascot in American
English). Pale gray or silver woven silk in subtle patterns
such as houndstooth or Macclesfield are most traditional,
especially for groomsmen. Pastel colors are an acceptable
alternative. Like all formal neckwear, the four-in-hand or
dress cravat should be self tied.
BLACK SHOES ONLY
Correct shoes are well-polished black lace-ups either
with capped or plain toes. Black silk or cashmere hose is
traditional but other fine fabric is also acceptable.
TOP HATS AS THE SMARTEST OPTION
Finally, top hats are optional unless you are lucky enough to
be invited to the Royal Enclosure at Ascot. Black silk is the
smartest and most formal choice but such models are very
hard to come by these days. Instead, gray felt with a black
band is now the most common option.
Dress Code
ATTIRE
Occasion
Morning Dress
(semi-formal)
BLACK LOUNGE /
STROLLER
Formal or semiformal
daytime
weddings.
Morning Dress
MORNING COAT /
CUTAWAY
Formal
daytime weddings,
formal daytime
occasions in the
presence of royalty.
LAST CONSIDERATION
So there you have it, a whirlwind tour of men’s formal wear.
There are a myriad of lesser details that may also be of
interest but the ones described here are enough to send the
average man well on his way to assembling a classic formal
wardrobe. Admittedly, sticking to the rules requires some
amount of discipline as most men are used to dress clothes
that allow them to stand out rather than force them to blend
in. Compliance will also require spending some time to
track down the appropriate garments. However, the return
on investment is enormous.
In my case I premiered my classic black-tie kit at the first
formal dinner on the Queen Mary 2’s historic crossing.
With each step I took down the grand staircase of the
majestic dining room I felt as if I was taking a step
further back in time. The ship’s art deco-inspired décor
and historic itinerary certainly helped evoke a yesteryear
elegance but it was the meticulous yet understated detail
of my own wardrobe that elevated the experience from
passively cerebral to poignantly personal. And that sublime
experience has been the same at every formal evening since
then. I highly recommend it.
Find many other formal wear tips offered
by Peter Marshall at www.blacktieguide.com
Black Tie
(Warm Weather)
WHITE DINNER
JACKET
Black Tie White Tie
TUXEDO /
DINNER JACKET /
DINNER SUIT
Semi-formal evening weddings,
formal dinners on cruises,
formal opening night galas
at theater or opera.
Peter Marshall
EVENING
TAILCOAT /
DRESS COAT
Formal
evening weddings,
formal balls,
Royal state dinners.
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