Formal wear origins

BLACK TIE ETIQUETTE
& ATTIRE
Although contemporary society is a highly informal one
with people wearing T-shirts to the office and flip-flops to
church, black-tie affairs still play a role in the social lives of
urbane gentlemen. Some of these affairs are black tie largely
by tradition such as opening nights of major theatrical
productions or designated formal nights on transatlantic
crossings. However, unwritten black-tie occasions are rare
today and vary considerably by city and by social circles.
Instead, organizers are much more likely to specifically state
the dress code on invitations to events that typically include
formal government functions, prestigious charity galas and
formal evening weddings.
Paradoxically, although formal proms, weddings and
cruises are the most common occasions for American to
don tuxedos, they are rarely black-tie events. They regularly
feature tuxedos of every hue, pattern and design while black
tie specifically calls for a grown-up version of the tuxedo.
Only men who adhere to the code’s traditional rules are
able to benefit from its traditional benefits: attractiveness,
equality, chivalry and consideration. Attractiveness because
it enhances a man’s appearance more effectively than any
other tuxedo configuration, equality because it raises all
men to the same level, chivalry because it defers to the
more dramatic and sensuous finery of the female guests and
consideration because it respects the host’s desire to make
the evening truly special.
CHOOSE THE RIGHT TUXEDO
The classic tuxedo jacket is constructed of the same black
or midnight blue material used by the evening tailcoat.
The original and therefore most formal model is the singlebreasted
style that has only one button thereby allowing
the front to be cut in a deep V shape that mimics the
wide shoulders and narrow waist of the ideal male torso.
The double-breasted model originated as a less formal
alternative in the 1930s but is now considered just as
acceptable. Tuxedo jackets without vents are the most
slimming and formal although side vents can be more
practical and comfortable.
SHAWL OR PEAKED COLLAR: IT’S UP TO YOU
The most formal style of lapel is the peaked style imported
from the tailcoat. It has the added benefit of emphasizing
height and shoulder width through its upwards and outward
sweep. The dégagé shawl collar option inspired by the
tuxedo’s smoking jacket predecessor is equally correct.
Either lapel style is dressed in the same choice of facings
as the tailcoat although the satin option is particularly well
suited to the shawl collar. Black-tie trousers are as for full
dress except that they feature only a single stripe.
COVER YOUR WAIST
Black tie’s original waist covering is the low-cut style of
evening waistcoat used by its full-dress progenitor. It is
made either of wool to match the jacket or of silk to match
the lapel facings. The cummerbund has been an accepted
TUXEDO
Jacket from the Mohair collection by Scabal - reference 702386
year-round alternative since the 1950s although it has never
been particularly popular in Europe. It should be of the
same type of silk as the jacket’s lapel facings. Neither type of
waist covering is necessary when the waist is concealed by a
double-breasted jacket which is worn closed.
WEAR A DOUBLE CUFF SHIRT
The tuxedo’s original shirt was also borrowed from full
dress and although this stiff-front, stiff -collar option is still
correct many consider it better suited to white tie. Its wing
collars also tend to push against the jowls of short-necked
men and not everyone likes the way it exposes the bow-tie’s
band. If worn, it is best paired with a peaked-lapel jacket
and a waistcoat for maximum formality. More congruous
with the tuxedo’s suit-like styling is the soft-front turndown
collar formal shirt which came into fashion in the 1930s.
It features a bosom decorated with pleats or piqué, closes
with studs and takes French cuffs (double cuffs in UK). Shirt
studs and cufflinks should harmonize and are most typically
black, gold or mother-of-pearl.
MATCH YOUR BOW TIE AND YOUR JACKET’S COLLAR
The black bow tie should be a self-tie model in silk to
match the jacket’s lapel facings. Its butterfly or batwing
shape is a matter of personal preference. Footwear is the
same as for white tie.
© Scabal
UNDER THE SUN ONLY
Finally, during summer in the American south or at any time
in the tropics it acceptable to wear an off-white dinner jacket
with self-faced lapels and a black cummerbund. All other
details for this warm-weather black-tie alternative are the same
as for standard black tie.
MODERN INTERPRETATION
In addition to the classic interpretation of black tie, many
contemporary etiquette authorities allow for a number of
modern variations. Currently the preference is for a pareddown
minimalist look. At its most elegant it is epitomized
by the dashing evening ensemble featured so prominently
in the recent James Bond reboot Casino Royale: a trim-fitting
peaked-lapel jacket and traditional bow tie updated with
a fly-front shirt. At its most pedantic, it is a glorified black
business suit typified by President Obama’s two-button,
notched-lapel, single-vented tuxedo that he so frequently
pairs with a four-in-hand tie. The latter interpretation not
only strips the tuxedo of its formality but also of its aesthetic
benefits. In particular, the long tie cuts the exposed front
of the shirt in half negating the dramatic “V” that normally
enhances the wearer’s physique. It also draws the viewer’s
eye down the wearer’s crotch whereas a bow tie serves to
underscore his face, the proper focal point of any good suit.
Peaked lapel tuxedo - fabric from the Mohair collection by Scabal - reference 702386
Both Bond and Barack also sported an exposed
waist which is fine provided you have a perfectly flat
stomach, never undo your jacket and never move your
arms from your sides. Under any other circumstances
the shirt waist will peak out and ruin the vertical
emphasis that a suit is supposed to engender.
‘THE MOST FORMAL STYLE
OF LAPEL IS THE PEAKED
STYLE IMPORTED FROM THE
TAILCOAT. IT HAS THE ADDED
BENEFIT OF EMPHASIZING
HEIGHT AND SHOULDER WIDTH
THROUGH ITS UPWARDS AND
OUTWARD SWEEP.’
50 I BESPOKEN BESPOKEN I 51
© Scabal