Formal wear origins

Booking passage on the inaugural transatlantic
crossing of the Queen Mary 2 seemed like
the perfect excuse to buy a tuxedo. Because
there was very little information available
about proper black tie at that time I decided
to do some field research to make sure
I did not invest in a wardrobe that was
suitable only for a high-school prom. Consequently, I rented
a conservative formal ensemble and headed off to the gala
opening of a Toronto concert hall to see how well my evening
wear would stand up against that the of the black-tie veterans
in attendance. As it turns out, my initial choices held their
own quite nicely. In fact, the only dissimilarity I noticed
was the presence of a satin stripe on the trousers of the
other gentlemen whereas mine were unadorned. However, I
couldn’t help but be struck by how much this minor aesthetic
touch enhanced the outfit’s overall elegance. It was an
important lesson and one that would hit home time and again
as I continued my pre-purchase research: When it comes to
looking your best in formal wear, success in the details.
THE BESPOKE COACH
BLACK OR WHITE TIE?
STICK TO ETIQUETTE,
GENTLEMEN
For this special edition dedicated to formal wear, who better than Peter Marshall, creator of the
website Blacktieguide.com, as the Bespoke Coach? For Bespoken, he offers advice and translates
the meanings of formal dress codes, to help our readers shine at special occasions.
WHITE TIE ETIQUETTE
AND ATTIRE
In the 21 st century, the most formal civilian dress code is
largely limited to royalty and high society and, even then,
it’s rare. The only times that ‘white tie’ is likely to appear
on an invitation are for prestigious society balls, society
weddings, public dinners and European state dinners
(notably, white-tie weddings are fairly common in Finland,
Norway and Sweden). At this level of formality the rules are
very strict: they don’t call it ‘full dress’ for nothing.
INVEST IN MADE-TO-MEASURE
Should you be fortunate enough to attend such an august
occasion, this is not the time to be a spendthrift. Poorly
fitting rental clothes will make you look like a second-rate
magician, while a properly tailored full-dress kit will foster
the impression of landed gentry. This is particularly true for
the tailcoat. Unlike a regular suit jacket which is relatively
forgiving as long as the shoulders fit properly, tailcoats are
a type of body coat which, as the name implies, must fit
the wearer’s torso perfectly in order to lie snugly against
the chest and waist. In the case of the evening tailcoat this
is even more of a challenge because, although it is cut in a
double-breasted style, it is not designed to close in front.
Other distinguishing traits of the coat include fronts cut
away sharply at the waist leading back to the side of the legs,
at which point the garment tapers down to the bottom of
the back skirt which ends just behind the knee. This skirt
is divided by a long center vent creating the illusion of two
tails and inspiring the early nicknames “swallow-tail coat”
and “claw-hammer tailcoat”.
ONLY WEAR DARK COLOURS
Black has been the norm for evening wear since the 1850s
and midnight blue – a deeper and richer version of black –
has been a correct and striking alternative since the 1920s.
The use of ebony for evening wear not only creates a natural
harmony with its after-dark environment but also provides
a couple of distinct aesthetic advantages. First, it imbues the
wearer with an aura of dominance and power. Second, when
worn with a white shirt and accessories, the juxtaposition
of black’s complete lack of colour against white’s complete
gamut creates the most dramatic contrast possible.
BET ON SILK PEAKED LAPELS
Peaked lapels have been standard on the evening tailcoat
© Scabal
EVENING TAILCOAT
Jacket and trousers from the Mohair collection by Scabal - reference 702386
Waistcoat from the Festival collection by Scabal - reference 851762
since the turn of the 20th century. Not only are they the
most formal style of suit lapel but their sweeping upward
diagonal lines also create the impression of a powerful
V-shaped torso. They are faced in silk that can be in the
form of smooth satin or ribbed grosgrain. Although the
former is much more common in North America, its shiny,
somewhat theatrical finish is not as popular in Britain,
where the understated look of grosgrain is often preferred.
MATCH YOUR TROUSERS WITH YOUR LAPEL FACING
Trousers match the coat fabric and feature two narrow
stripes or one wide stripe of silk along the outseams, either
braided or in the same material used for the lapel facing.
These stripes serve to cover the trouser’s working seams and
lengthen the perceived leg line in a manner reminiscent of
military dress uniforms (and you know what they say about
a man in a uniform). Full-dress trousers must be worn with
suspenders as it is crucial that the waistband maintains its
position relative to the waistcoat. Formal trousers are never
worn with cuffs (turn-ups in British English).
Never underestimate the role of full-dress shirt
Next to the tailcoat, the full-dress shirt is arguably the
most important component in creating white tie’s regal
bearing. The classic full-dress shirt commands a military-
‘POORLY FITTING RENTAL
CLOTHES WILL MAKE YOU
LOOK LIKE A SECOND-RATE
MAGICIAN.’
like formality with a stiff bosom made from plain linen,
plain cotton or cotton piqué (marcella in the UK). This bibshaped
layer of fabric is heavily starched to give wearers the
appearance of a firm, flat torso, regardless of their actual
physiques. Traditionally the shirt is tunic style and takes a
detachable wing collar. Whether attached or not, the collar
should be taller than regular shirt collars and should stand
stiffly so as to best frame the wearer’s face. Sleeve cuffs are
barrel style (single cuffs in British English) that fasten with
cufflinks traditionally made of mother-of-pearl to match the
shirt studs.
MAKE IT YOURS
The full-dress waistcoat serves to conceal the bottom of
the shirt’s bosom and the waistband of the trousers. It is
constructed of white piqué and can be single- or doublebreasted
but is always cut very low to best reveal the shirt
bosom. Its length is a critical consideration as it must be long
enough to cover the trouser waistband yet not so long as to
extend below the coat fronts. Within these parameters there
is room for extensive variation in shape of the waistcoat’s
revers (lapels) and its bottom edge, making it the sole garment
than may be used to add a personal touch to the otherwise
rigid uniform.
FORGET TIE, THINK BOW TIE
The white full-dress bow tie is made from cotton piqué,
the material of choice since the 1930s. And if pre-tied
neckwear is considered unrefined in a relatively informal
office environment then it can only be viewed as downright
gauche in the context of an ultra-formal social or diplomatic
function. Formal bow ties are meant to be worn outside the
wings of the collar, not tucked behind them.
WEAR FORMAL SLIPPERS
Black formal pumps (men’s court shoes in British English)
have a pedigree stretching back to the royal courts and grand
ballrooms of Europe. They feature a grosgrain bow on the
vamp that is either pinched or lies completely flat. Lace-up
shoes are equally correct provided they have the same slipperlike
silhouette and minimal decoration. Either shoe is most
traditional in patent leather although calfskin is acceptable
provided it is highly polished. For similar reasons as the
pump, the aristocratic pedigree and elegant sheen of silk hose
make them preferable to other types of dress socks.
48 I BESPOKEN BESPOKEN I 49