prodew - Cosmesi.it

PRODEW ® 500 

The Amino Acid supplement for Hair Care 

ASP0051E

Introduction 

Line Up PRODEW ® 

• PRODEW ® 300… A combination of Na-PCA & Proline 

• PRODEW ® 400… Skin Amino Acids 

• PRODEW ® 500… Hair Amino Acids 

ASP0051E 2 

AJINOMOTO Co., Inc. AminoScience Laboratories

PRODEW ® 

PRODEW ® 500 

PRODEW ® 500 is amino acids cocktail, 

designed for the efficient application of PCA 

and amino acids in hair care preparation. 

Components 

Concentration 

Sodium PCA and PCA 20 

Arginine 7 

Amino Acids Mix 7 

Sodium Lactate 12 

Aspartic Acid 4 

Water 50 

ASP0051E Technical Data Sheet No.1002-0010E 3 


PRODEW ® 

PRODEW ® 500 - Composition 

18% high quality amino acids premix.. 

… of 11 kinds of amino acids = easy to handle 

32% humectant 

Almost odorless and colorless 

Preservative free 



Amino Acids Mix 

Composition of Amino Acids Mix 

The composition of Amino Acids Mix is modeled after 

the constituent amino acids of protein in Cell 

Membrane Complex (CMC). 

Amino Acids Penetration and Supplementation 

Asp Glu Thr 

Ser Pro Tyr 

Gly Ala Leu 

Val Ile Phe 

His Lys Arg 

Constituent amino acids of protein in CMC* Amino Acids Mix of PRODEW ® 

500 

*Cys and Met are excluded. J. A. Swift et. al., Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemist, 25, 355,(1974) 




Cell Membrane Complex 

Intercellular cement for cuticle and cortex 

Non-keratinous region 

Continuous structure from surface to inside 

Responsible for swelling of hair 

Similar composition 

…easier to penetrate ? 

Target of alkali, oxidant, and reductant 

Destroyed by 10 - 20% extension – cuticle 

decementation 

Likely to be lost 

…then replenish ! 

ASP0051E 6 



Improvement of Hair Luster by PRODEW ® 500 

PRODEW ® 500 imparts luster and brilliant appearance to hair. 

Gloss Index (%) 

40 

30 

20 

N=3, mean ± S.D. 

10 

0% 2% 5% 

PRODEW ® 

500 



Designing PRODEW ® 500 

Part 2 

Components 

Concentration 

Sodium PCA and PCA 20 

Arginine 7 

PRODEW ® 

Amino Acids Mix 7 

Sodium Lactate 12 

Aspartic Acid 4 

Water 50 

Part 1 

Part 3 

ASP0051E 8 



Part 1 : HUMECTANT: PCA 

ASP0051E

PCA 

Sodium PCA (AJIDEW® NL-50) 

PCA is derived from L-Glutamic acid in the skin. 

Sodium PCA for hair care 

Moisturizing 

Conditioning 

Color protection 

O COO - Na + 

N 

H 

ASP0051E 10 


Humectant for health hair 

ASP0051E 11 


AJIDEW NL-50 : Effective moisturizer for hair 

Water content in hair 

(g/hair-10g) 

0.5 

0.4 

0.3 

0.2 

0.1 

0.0 

Blank 

(water) 

Glycerin 

Ajidew NL-50 

 

After hair tresses (15cm, 6g) were immersed in each humectant solution for 5 min., 

they were dried under 20 o C/65%RH, then the amount of absorbed water 

in hair tresses was measured by weight. 

Water adsorption mass on hair = (B) – (A) – (C) 

(B) : Weight of hair tress after maceration (65 % RH) 

(A) : ASP0051E Before maceration (65 % RH) 

Technical data sheet 1001-0133 

12 

(C) : Weight of moisturizer sorbed on hair 


Wet friction reduction with AJIDEW NL-50 

• AJIDEW NL-50 reduces the creakiness of hair. 

creaky 

Dynamic Friction Coefficient 

1.0 

0.8 

0.6 

0.4 

0.2 

1%SLES+1,3-BG 

1%SLES+Glycerin 

1%SLES+AJIDEW NL-50 

Humectant (%, active) 

25 o C, 40%RH 

0 0.2 0.4 0.6 0.8 1.0 1.2 

ASP0051E 13 



Part 2 : Arginine 

ASP0051E

Arginine 

Arginine Has Strong Affinity for Hair 

Arginine bears cationic charge below pK 2 =9.0, so has 

strong affinity for hair at pH over about 4. 

Arginine Recovery 

(mmol/g-hair) 

50 

40 

30 

20 

10 

0 

3.2 4.3 5.3 7.2 

pH of Arginine Solution 

Removed by 

acidic buffer 

solution 

Removed by water 



Arginine 

Arginine has Strong Affinity for Hair 

Arginine bears cationic charge below pK 2 =9.0, so has 

strong affinity for hair at pH over about 4. 

Arginine Recovery 

(mmol/g-hair) 

50 

40 

30 

20 

Affinity 

10to acidic groups 

on hair surface 

0 

L-Arg+ 

COOH 

3.2 4.3 5.3 7.2 

± 

COO - 

- 

pH of Arginine pH 3 pH Solution 6 

Removed by 

acidic buffer 

solution 

Removed by water 



Arginine 

Uptake of PCA –the pH Dependence 

Interaction of PCA and hair is relatively weak at pH 

range between 4 and 7. 

20 

PCA 

PCA- 

PCA (mg/g-hair) 

15 

10 

5 

0 

1 3 5 7 9 

pH 

COOH COO - 

± 

- 

pH 3 pH 6 

L-PCA 5wt% 

N=3, mean 



Arginine 

Use of Arginine as an “Anchor” -1 

By combination with Arginine the uptake of 

PCA is enhanced. 

L-PCA 5wt%, pH 7.2 

4.0 


PCA (mg/g-hair) 

3.0 

2.0 

1.0 

0.0 

PCA-Arg 

PCA-Na 



Arginine 

Use of Arginine as an “Anchor” -2 

Arginine also enhances the uptake of acidic and 

neutral amino acids. 

Amino Acids (mg/g-hair) 

0.20 

0.15 

0.10 

0.05 

0.00 

His 

Ile 

Ala 

Pro 

Thr 

Phe 

Val 

Gly 

Ser 

Asp 

PRODEW ® 500 PRODEW ® 500 

Without Arginine 




Part 3 : Amino Acids Mix 

ASP0051E


Composition of Amino Acids Mix 

The composition of Amino Acids Mix is modeled after 

the constituent amino acids of protein in Cell 

Membrane Complex (CMC). 

Amino Acids Penetration and Supplementation 

Asp Glu Thr 

Ser Pro Tyr 

Gly Ala Leu 

Val Ile Phe 

His Lys Arg 

Constituent amino acids of protein in CMC* Amino Acids Mix of PRODEW ® 

500 

*Cys and Met are excluded. J. A. Swift et. al., Journal of Society of Cosmetic Chemist, 25, 355,(1974) 



Hair & Amino Acids 

Improvement of Surface Hydrophobicity 

• Alanine 

Contact Angle ( o ) 

110 

100 

90 

80 

70 

60 

50 

*: p

Hair & Amino Acids 

Improvement of Tensile Strength 

• Histidine and Phenylalanine 

Tensile Strength* (g) 

50 

40 

30 

20 

10 

0 

* Stress at 20% extension measured in water. 

** 

** 

Bleached 

**: p

ASP0051E 

Benefits of PRODEW ® 500


Improvement of Hair Luster by PRODEW ® 500 

PRODEW ® 500 imparts luster and brilliant appearance to hair. 

Gloss Index (%) 

40 

30 

20 


10 

0% 2% 5% 

PRODEW ® 

500 



PRODEW ® 500 – Amino Acid Supplement 

• Sodium PCA and PCA 

– Moisturizing, conditioning, color protect 

• Arginine (basic amino acids) 

– Enhances PCA and amino acids uptake 

• Arginine & Aspartic Acid (acidic and basic amino acids) 

– Improve wet hair property 

• Neutral amino acids 

– Improve dry hair property 

• Sodium Lactate 

– Moisturizing, softening 

ASP0051E 26 


PRODEW ® Improved color retention of died hair 

Hard to fade 

ASUL-4025 

& 

PDC-0003 

∆E*ab 

25 

20 

15 

10 

5 

0 

Without PRODEW ® With PRODEW ® 

After post-dye 

conditioner 

After 

1st cycle 

After 

2nd cycle 

mean±S.D., N=3 

After 

3rd cycle 

ASP0051E 27 

Technical Data Sheet No. 1002-0070E 


PRODEW ® 500 

The amino acid supplement for hair 

Replenish damaged hair 

Improvement of tensile strength 

Improvement of surface hydrophobicity 

Moisturizing 

Color care – improved color retention 

ASP0051E

TIPS for Formulation with PRODEW ® 500 

Recommended dose 

0.5 – 5.0% for rinse-off formulations 

0.2 – 2.0% for leave-on formulations. 

The pH of is around 5, suitable for wide range of formulations 

Addition to anionics/ amphoterics base formulations (i.e. 

shampoos) are not difficult at all. 

Addition to emulsions are likely to cause the severe viscosity 

decrease due to high content of PCA-Na, but emulsion is 

possible. 

Addition to alkaline formulations such as waving lotion or dye 

component is not necessarily recommended, because PCA is 

not so stable at highly alkaline condition. 

ASP0051E 29 


ASP0051E 

Applications of PRODEW ® 500

Applications 

Recommended Applications 

Hair shampoos 

Hair conditioners 

Post-dye conditioners for pH control 

Hair masks 

Hair sprays 

Hair styling gels 

…. 

ASP0051E 31 


Hair treatment water 

ASP0051E 32 


Dream hair shining star 

ASP0051E 33 


PRODEW ® 500 

Amino Acids Supplement for Hair 

ASP0051E

prodew - Cosmesi.it

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