Siratro Extract BG - Cosmesi.it

Active and Specialty Ingredients 

for Superior and Original Skin Care 

Anti-aging / Anti-wrinkle 

Whitening / Lightening 

Anti-inflammatory 

inflammatory 

Anti-acne 

Moisturizers 

Skin Turnover Promotion 

Skin Defense / Anti-Stress 

Anti-microbial 

Slimming 

Semi-finished Bases 

Original Powder Ingredients 

2006-04

NIKKO CHEMICALS CO., LTD. 

1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN Email: inter@nikkol.co.jp www.nikkol.co.jp 

Complex Moisturization 

Natural Active for Synthesis of Hyaluronic Acid 

and Other Moisture Factors 

NEW 

Marjoram Extract BG 

INCI Name: ORIGANUM MAJORANA LEAF EXTRACT; WATER; BUTYLENE GLYCOL. 

Marjoram grows in many parts of the world, especially in dry areas. The leafs of 

marjoram are used in traditional medicine in anti-inflammatory and pain 

relieving preparations. 

It is also famous as a spice under the popular name “oregano”. 

Efficacy of Marjoram Extract BG 

1. Synthesis of hyaluronic acid (moisturization) 

2. Synthesis of Aquaporin-3 (moisture flow and cell nutrition) 

3. Stimulation of transglutaminase-1 expression (improvement of corneocytes’ condition and skin 

barrier) 

Synthesis of hyaluronic acid 

(Ex-vivo, 3D skin model) 

After 9 days after application 

of Marjoram Extract BG (1%) 

SC 

SG 

BM 

Control Marjoram Extract BG (1%) 

Transglutaminase-1 (TGase-1) is an enzyme 

expressed during differentiation of 

epidermal keratinocytes. It is essential in the 

process of formation of corneofied 

envelopes (CE). TGase-1 is a catalyst for 

cross linking of CE-related proteins 

(involucrin and loricrin), which is an 

important step in formation of CE. 

Synthesis of AQP-3 (%) 

Marjoram Extract BG significantly increased 

expression of TGase-1 in human 

keratinocytes (in vitro). 

Marjoram Extract BG 

2010-08



Epidermal-Dermal Junction 

New approach to deep wrinkles and other signs of aging 

NEW NEW 

Siratro Extract BG 

Extracted from one the fastest growing plants in the world, Siratro Extract BG 

demonstrates a strong stimulation of the synthesis of laminin-5 and collagen type 

IV, the main components of the epidermal-dermal junction (EDJ). 

The complex linking the dermis with the epidermis plays a critical role in wrinkle 

formation. Thus, the EDJ is designed to bind collagen fibers in the upper part of 

dermis with the epidermal base membrane, allowing collagen to fulfill its main 

function: to support the epidermis and maintain the skin’s elasticity. 

If the EDJ is damaged, proper bonding of collagen with epidermis is impaired, 

resulting in the formation of deep wrinkles and sagging. 

In vitro: increase of laminin-5 production 

Laminin-5 

production (%) 

300 

250 

200 

150 

100 

50 

0 

cont. 

** 

Siratro Extract 

BG (0.5%) 

Ex vivo: increase of collagen type IV in 3D skin 

model (after 14 days) 

Control 

Siratro Extract BG 

Before 

After 1 month 

In vivo: improvement of deep wrinkles 

(cream with 1% Siratro Extract BG) 

Siratro 

Extract BG 

(1%) 

Subjects: 10. 

Application: Twice daily for 1 month 

(eye area). 

Evaluation : Replica method. 

Placebo 

Epidermis 

Dermis 

Stimulation of synthesis of epidermal-dermal junction 

Stimulation of synthesis of epidermal-dermal junction 

(EDJ) results in visual improvement of deep wrinkles 

(EDJ) results in visual improvement of deep wrinkles 

2010.03



“True Hydration”: : PCA 

New mechanism of moisturization: : stimulation of 

synthesis of PCA (Pyrrolidone carboxylic acid) in skin 

NEW 

NEW 

Mallow Moisture 

Mallow Moisture is a natural extract from the flowers of mallow (Malva 

sylvestris). In skin care, it demonstrates two important effects: anti-inflammation 

(through inhibition of the inflammatory cytokine Prostaglandin E2) and 

moisturization (hydration) of the skin through increased PCA synthesis. 

Mallow Moisture acts 

to down-regulate the 

production of PGE2 

(Prostaglandin E2) in 

keratinocytes, and to 

suppress inflammation. 

PGE2 production (μg/mL) 

300 

250 

200 

150 

100 

50 

n=6 

* *: p



Melanin Transfer Inhibition 

New mechanism to treat spots and pigmentation 

NEW 

NEW 

Artemisia 

Capillaris Extract BG 

This extract from the flowers of Artemisia capillaris demonstrates a strong potential 

as a skin lightening active due to its novel mechanism of action: suppression of 

melanin uptake into keratinocytes. 

× 

Melanin is transferred to 

keratinocytes through 

the dendrite of the 

melanocyte 

Pigmentation is 

a result of 

melanin uptake 

Melanin uptake into the 

keratinocyte is suppressed by 

Artemisia Capillaris Extract BG 

Melanin remains inside the 

melanocyte and, as a result, 

its production is reduced 

Inhibition of melanin uptake by Artemisia Capillaris Extract BG 

NHEK Cells 

Test 

sample 

Fluorescent 

microspheres 

(pseudo-melanin) 

Evaluation 

24 hours 4 hours 

Results: 

Control sample. 

Large amounts of 

pseudo-melanin can 

be seen in the 

epidermal cells. 

Artemisia Capillaris 

Extract BG (0.67%). 

Uptake of pseudomelanin 

in epidermal 

cells is significantly 

reduced. 

2010.04



Pore Size Reduction 

Active phospholipid for balanced skin barrier, better cell 

differentiation, improvement of tight junction and pore size reduction. 

LPA 

Enzyme-degradated soybean lecithin 

that contains high concentration (20- 

30%) of Lysophosphatidic acid (LPA). 

LPA exists in human skin and is an 

essential element of cell membrane. 

LPA promotes the development of healthy 

epidermis by stimulating cell differentiation. 

Keratinocyte differentiation is stimulated through 

the Ca2+ influx mediated cascade. 

LPA also accelerates ceramide synthesis in skin. 

LPA stimulates uptake of Ca 2+ in the cells. Ca 2+ is a 

major factor of cell differentiation. LPA up-regulates 

uptake of Ca2+ from both Ca2+ channels on cell 

membrane and endoplasmic reticulum. 

Cell membrane has receptors specifically for LPA. 

When LPA attaches to the receptors, Ca2+ uptake 

channels become wider letting more Ca2+ inside 

the cells. 

Effect of LPA on Ca2+ influx (in-vitro) 

Phase contrast microscope 

Increase in intracellular uptake of 

Ca2+ in keratinocytes (% of control) 

160 

140 

120 

100 

80 

* 

* 

* 

* 

Control 6.25 12.5 25 50 100 

LPA (µg/ml) 

Fluorescence microscope 

0.03 mM Ca2+; 

No LPA 

LPA increases synthesis of 

key four proteins of tight 

junction (TJ) 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

* 

0.03 mM Ca2+; 

100 µg/ml LPA 

(Light blue: Ca2+) 

NEW 

Occludin 

Claudin-1 

0.03 mM Ca2+; 

No LPA 

(Round undifferentiated 

cells) 

0.03 mM Ca2+; 100 

µg/ml LPA (Cells look 

flatter: differentiation 

has begun) 

Cells 

Side view (image) 

Top: NHEKs treated with control sample. 

Bottom: NHEKs treated with LPA (10 mg/mL). 

LPA 2010.03




In-vivo data: LPA improves corneocyte condition and suppresses TEWL 

Before 

application 

After 6 weeks of 

application 

140.0 

Placebo 

0.2% LPA 

Control 

LPA 

(0.2%) 

TEWL(%) 

100.0 

60.0 

** 

Photographs of stripped stratum corneum treated 

with 0.2% LPA and control emulsion. The improvement 

of stratum corneum condition (due to stimulation of 

cell differentiation) can be observed when 0.2% LPA 

applied: corneocytes are packed in thin layers and 

have hexagonal shape. 

20.0 

0 week 

6 week 

In-vivo data: LPA diminishes visible size of pores by 20% due to stimulation of cell differentiation and 

improvement of corneocyte condition 

Placebo 

0.1% LPA 

Before 

After 4 

weeks 

Actual image Processed image Actual image Processed image 

LPA 2010.03



Transparency 

NEW 

Silver Vine Extract BG30 

Brightening for Stratum Corneum: 

Recently it was found that decrease in the 

skin transparency is induced by protein 

carbonylation in the stratum corneum. 

Carbonylation makes corneocytes opaque 

and enhances their color resulting in “nontransparent 

skin” and yellowish or grayish 

unhealthy appearance. 

Silver Vine Extract BG30 effectively inhibits 

carbonylation of proteins in corneocytes 

(stratum corneum cells). 

The in vivo evaluation demonstrated that 

“skin transparency index” can be improved 

by one point with 1% of Silver Vine Extract 

BG30. 

Translucent skin 

Light is reflected 

from inside of the skin 

Opaque skin 

Decrease in the reflected 

light from inside of the skin 

In vitro: Inhibition of protein 

carbonylation in corneocytes 

(carbonylation level is evaluated by 

intensity of green fluorescent dye) 

In vivo: Improvement of skin transparency 

Period: 28 days. 

Dosage of Silver Vine Extract BG30: 1%. 

Results: Skin transparency index (evaluated by 

dermatologist) increased by approximately 

one point. Color of the skin became brighter 

and skin roughness was improved. 

0 0.2% 1.0% 


Carbonylation level (AU) 

175 

150 

125 

100 

75 

50 

25 

0 

0 

0.2% 1.0% 


Skin transparency index 

2009-08



Collagen Quality Enhancer 

New oil-soluble derivative of vitamin C boosts 

HSP47 to improve quality and organization of collagen. 

VCE 

INCI Name: 3-O-Cetyl Ascorbic Acid. 

NEW 

VCE is an oil-soluble ether of vitamin C. It effectively promotes expression of Heat Shock Protein 47 

(HSP47) resulting in improved quality and organization of collagen fibers. Better organization of 

collagen provided by VCE increases skin firmness and elasticity. 

VCE also effectively boosts synthesis of type I collagen. 

Many anti-aging active ingredients focus on 

increase of collagen amount in skin. However, 

another extremely important aspect is quality of 

collagen. it is essential to produce thick and firm 

collagen fibers, strong enough to support epidermis 

and prevent wrinkle formation. 

HSP47 is the main factor of proper collagen synthesis 

(molecular chaperone). HSP47 is the protein whose 

function is to assist procollagen in achieving proper 

folding. HSP47 facilitates productive folding of 

procollagen with preventing its aggregation in the 

ER (endoplasmic reticulum). Several reports were 

made on importance of HSP47 in collagen formation 

process. 

As HSP47 synthesis decreases with age, VCE, as an 

active molecule with ability to increase HSP47, is a 

very important ingredient for modern anti-aging skin 

care product. 

Normal 

Abnormal 

(suppressed HSP47) 

Electron microscopic images of 

collagen fibers 

HSP47 protein(Abs.405/protein) 

12.0 

10.0 

8.0 

6.0 

4.0 

2.0 

0.0 

* p



Collagen Quality Enhancer 

VCE 

VCE induces collagen type 

I synthesis (in vitro). The 

amount of collagen is 

increased due to more 

effective procollagen 

folding supported by HSP47. 

Collagen (ng/mg protein) 

80.0 

70.0 

60.0 

50.0 

40.0 

30.0 

20.0 

10.0 

0.0 

** p



Ceramide + AQP-3 

Phyto-elastisizer 

BG 

Extract from the leafs of Glycyrrhiza glabra. 

Contains active fraction Genistein, one of 

the strongest known whitening actives. 

Improves skin elasticity. Strong collagen 

synthesis promotion. Promotion of cell 

recovery after UV exposure. Clinically tested 

(reduction of wrinkles in the corner of the 

eye (10%; 32 days). Additional estrogen-like 

activity. 

Serine palmitoyltransferase (SPT) is the 

enzyme that catalyzes the first step of the 

biosynthesis of all sphingolipids (including 

ceramides). 

Stimulating SPT increases ceramide 

production in human skin. 

Promotion of SPT mRNA Expression (%) 

150 

100 

50 

0 

Effect on SPT mRNA expression in 

normal human keratonocytes 

Control 

108.8 ±3.9 

126.8 ±11.6 

5 20 

Licorice Leaf Extract 

(as extract solid) (mg/ml) 

In vivo test: increase of ceramide content in skin 

Subjects: 10 male and female volunteers. 

Lotion containing 1% of PHYTO-ELASTICIZER 

BG and placebo lotion were applied twice 

daily for 28days to the inner forearm (24mm 

x 45mm). 

On first and last day of testing corneocytes 

were collected by cyanoacrylate resin. 

Amount of ceramide extracted from 

collected corneocytoes was measured by 

TLC method. 

Amount of Ceramide (mg/mg) 

10 

8 

6 

4 

2 

+29.4% 

5.34 

6.91 

0 

Before 

After 

1% PHYTO-ELASTICIZER BG 

Wrinkle reduction and skin 

microrelief improvement 

effect. 

Test period: 4 weeks. 

Concentration: 1%. 

Number of subjects: 10. 

Application: twice daily. 

Before 

After 

2009-03



Ceramide + AQP-3 

Boost skin hydration and prevent dry skin by normalizing 

intracellular water transfer (Aquaporin-3) 



AQP-3 

Extract from the leafs of Glycyrrhiza glabra. Contains active fraction Genistein, one of the strongest 

known whitening actives. Improves skin elasticity. Strong collagen synthesis promotion. Promotion 

of cell recovery after UV exposure. Clinically tested (reduction of wrinkles in the corner of the eye 

(10%; 32 days). Additional estrogen-like activity. 

Effect on AQP-3 mRNA expression in normal human keratonocytes 

Increase rate 

ofAQP3 mRNA (%) 

120 

100 

80 

+14.9% 

60 

Control 

Phyto-elastisizer BG 

(0.2%) 

2009-02



Anti-Aging Aging / Anti-Wrinkle 

In this section we proudly present active ingredients which improve wrinkles, make 

skin more elastic and provide healthier and younger look. Their mechanisms of 

action include promotion of collagen synthesis, suppression of collagenase, 

improvement of cell viability, protection of skin cells’ DNA from UV light and 

oxidative stress. 

Primary Ingredients 

Botanical ingredients are marked : 

Tocoretinate-10 

Star Fruit Extract 

BG30 

Caprylic/capric triglyceride solution containing 10% of an 

ester of retinoic acid and natural vitamin E. Effectively 

reduces skin wrinkles at 1% concentration (clinically tested). 

Promotes collagen synthesis. Scavenges active oxygen 

species. Does not release retinoic acid due to the 

resistance to breakdown by esterase. Low skin irritation 

potential. 

Extract from the leafs of Star Fruit (Averrhoa Carambola). 

Strong collagen synthesis promotion. Clinically tested 

(improvement of skin elasticity and wrinkle reduction (1%; 30 

days). 

Himalayan 

Raspberry 

Extract BG80 

Derived from the roots of Himalayan Raspberry from Nepal. 

Contains Kaji-Ichigoside F1, a strong anti-wrinkle active 

ingredient. Remarkable promotion of fibroblast proliferation. 

Skin moisture retention effect provides smoother skin without 

sagging. Clinically tested (in-vivo): visible improvement of 

facial wrinkles in 21 days; 1%. 



Extract from the leafs of Glycyrrhiza glabra. Contains active 

fraction Genistein, one of the strongest known whitening 

actives. Improves skin elasticity. Strong collagen synthesis 

promotion. Promotion of cell recovery after UV exposure. 

Clinically tested (reduction of wrinkles in the corner of the 

eye (10%; 32 days). Additional estrogen-like activity. 

VC-IP 

Unique oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. Reduces UVinduced 

cell/DNA damage. 

Prevents lipid peroxidation and skin aging. Revitalizing 

effect on cells. Promotion of collagen synthesis. Inhibition of 

activity of collagen degrading enzymes MMP-2 and MMP-9. 

Updated: 2004-11




This additional section contains the images / results received in in-vivo clinical trials 

using our major anti-aging actives. 

Appendix: In-Vivo Test Results 


Wrinkle reduction effect (replica). 

Test period: 90 days. 


Before 

After 

Star Fruit Extract BG30 




Before 

After 

Himalayan Raspberry 

Extract BG80 




Before 

After 






Before 

After 

Updated: 2004-11




Oryzalipid 

Oryzalipid is a 20% premix of 

triterpene alcohol derived from rice. 

Triterpene alcohol is derived from 

gamma oryzanol by hydrolysis 

process and consists mainly of 

molecules with pentacyclic structure: 

cycloartenol and 24- 

methylcycloartenol. 

cycloartenol 

24-methylcycloartenol 

Triterpene alcohol exhibits a strong collagen synthesis promotion activity in skin and can be effectively 

used as anti-aging / anti-wrinkle / lifting active ingredient. 

Oryzalipid melts at around 60 degrees Celsius: low melting point makes it easy to incorporate triterpene 

alcohol in the formulation. 

Oryzalipid prevents crystallization of triterpene alcohol in the formulation (crystallization was not 

observed in the cream with 2% Oryzalipid kept at -5 degrees Celsius for 4 months). 

In-vivo Evaluation: Wrinkle Improvement Effect 

Cream with 3% Oryzalipid was tested on human subjects for short-term wrinkle improvement (1; 2 

and 3 weeks). Application: twice daily (morning / night). Control: placebo cream. 

Subject A 

2-Dimension images 

Subject B 

Placebo 

3% Oryzalipid 

Placebo 

3% Oryzalipid 

0w 

0w 

2w 

1w 

3w 

2w 

Sensory Evaluation: Instant Lifting / Skin Firming Effect 

40% of subjects of in-vivo wrinkle test experienced improvement in skin firmness, skin elasticity and 

lifting effect within 1 week from the beginning of test. 

2007-05




Additional Ingredients 

Retinol H10 

Caprylic/capric triglyceride solution containing 10% of 

hydrogenated retinol. 

Hydrogenated retinol is remarkably stable against light, 

oxidation and high temperatures, compared to pure retinol. 

Promotes hyaluronic acid synthesis in skin. 

Low skin irritation potential. Recommended dosage: 1.0% 

Production of 

Hyaluronic Acid (%) 

110 

100 

90 

80 

0 1.563 3.125 6.250 

Concentration Hydrogenated Retinol 

(mmol/L) 

Figure 1: NIKKOL Retinol H10’s ability to accelerate the 

production of hyaluronic acid 

Updated: 2005-12





Alpinia Leaf Extract 


Angelica Extract BG 

Mallotus Bark Extract BG Machilus Bark Extract 


Citrus Extract Complex 


Turmeric Extract BG 

Derived from the leaf of Alpinia Speciosa. Contains 

strong anti-wrinkle active constituents. Promotes 

collagen synthesis, prevents degradation of collagen 

and accelerates growth of fibroblast cells. Estrogen-like 


This extract derived from leafs of Angelica Keiskei has 

lately become a popular ingredient for anti-aging skin 

care. Contains Luteolin-7-O-Glucoside, flavonoids and 

vitamins. Superior cell revitalizing and moisturizing 

effect. Remarakable promotion of collagen and 

hyaluronic acid synthesis. 

Derived from the bark of a plant Mallotus from Nepal. 

Clinically tested (in-vivo): suppression of UV-induced 

wrinkle formation. Collagen synthesis promotion. 

Protects elasticity and moisture content of skin 

against UV irradiation. 

Extract from the bark of Machilus grown in the 

Himalayas. Suppresses collagen decomposition by 

inhibiting collagenase activity. Increases moisture 

retention of skin. Improvement of skin barrier 

functions. 

Unique blend of three types of citrus extracts designed 

to improve skin turnover. Keratinocyte proliferation 

effect. Clinically tested: promotion of skin turnover 

(7 days; 1%). 

This traditional Japanese extract is an essential part of 

modern anti-aging product. Strong inhibition of 

gelatinase, one of collagen decomposition factors. 

Additional anti-inflammatory activity. 

Tiencha Extract BGW 

Extracted from leafs of a famous Japanese tea plant. 

Contains ellagitannin polymers, rubusoside and other 

active constituents. Remarkable collagenase 

suppression effect. Additional SOD-like activity and 

anti-inflammatory effect. Tea related marketing 

concepts make Tiencha a welcomed guest of antiwrinkle 

regimen. 

Updated: 2004-11




Fighting pigmentation, spots and freckles is an essential part of modern skin care 

regimen. Nikko Chemicals is well recognized as a specialist in skin lightening care. 

Our wide range of superior actives for skin lightening includes ingredients with 

various mechanisms of action. In-vitro and in-vivo clinical data is available for most 

of our products. 



VC-IP 

Unique oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. Inhibits activity of intracellular tyrosinase 

and melanogenesis. Reduces UV-induced cell/DNA damage. 

Prevents lipid peroxidation and skin aging. Remarkable heat- and oxidationstability. 

Revitalizing effect on cells. Clinically tested. Currently under application for 

quasi-drug status in Japan. Registered in Korea as a functional ingredient for 

skin lightening at 2% concentration. 

VC-PMG 

A water-soluble vitamin C derivative. Excellent stability in heat and light. Shows 

vitamin C activity after being decomposed by enzymes in the body. 

Approved as a whitening agent in Japan and Korea (3%); active ingredient for 

quasi-drugs. 

Licorice 

Extract 

P-T T (40) 

Extract from the roots of Glycyrrhiza glabra. Contains 35-45% of Glabridin, one 

of the strongest known whitening actives. Inhibits tyrosinase and melanin 

synthesis. Approved as a whitening agent in Korea (0.05%). Clinically tested in 

Japan. Available in powder form and as an aqueous solution (Aqua Licorice 

Extract P-T). Licorice Extract P-TH with reduced content of Glabridin (15-25%) is 

also available. 

Mulberry 


Extracted from roots of Mulberry (Kuwa). Sohakuhi (dried root bark of Mulberry) 

is a famous treatment traditionally used in Chinese medicine. Rich in 

phenylflavones and contains strong whitening active (Kuwanon). Antityrosinase 

and melanin inhibition effects. Exhibits additional anti-inflammatory 

activity. Available as butylene glycol solution. Widely used in skin lightening 

products in many Asian countries. 

Burnet 


Derived from roots of Burnet, small plant grown in China, Korea and Japan. 

Rich in sanguinin and tomentosolic acid. Remarkable anti-tyrosinase effect: 

70% inhibition with only 5% of extract. Strong SOD-like and anti-inflammatory 

activity. Available as an easy-to-use butylene glycol solution. 

Updated: 2005-09




This additional section contains the images / results of in-vivo clinical trials using our 

major skin lightening actives. 


VC-IP 

Unique oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. Inhibits activity of intracellular tyrosinase and melanogenesis. 

Reduces UV-induced cell/DNA damage. 

Prevents lipid peroxidation and skin aging. Remarkable heat- and oxidation-stability. 

Revitalizing effect on cells. Clinically tested. Currently under application for quasi-drug status in 

Japan. Registered in Korea as a functional ingredient for skin lightening at 2% concentration. 

Reduction of UV-induced 

pigmentation. 



Before 

After 56 days 

Control VC-IP (2%) 

Pigmentation reduction effect. 

Test period: 16 weeks. 


Result: complete removal of 

pigmentation (age spot). 

Before 

After 

Updated: 2005-08







Plant Extract 

Complex BG 

 

Blend of three botanical extracts with strong synergistic skin 

lightening effect. Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice flavonoid) inhibits 

tyrosinase and melanin synthesis. Scutellaria root extract is able 

to suppress release of Endothelin-1 (one of pigmentation 

inducing factors). Jujube extract promotes skin turnover and 

desquamation. 

Clinically tested in Japan. 

Clinical evaluation of skin 

lightening effect. Reduction of 

UV-induced pigmentation. 





 

Placebo 

Before 

After 26 days 

Updated: 2005-12







Antipollon-HT 

Clinical evaluation of skin 

lightening effect. 

Female, 45 years old. 

Treatment with peeling 

preparation and milky lotion / 

pack with Antipollon-HT. 

Test period: 48 days 

Before 

After 48 days 

Licorice Extract 

P-T T (40) 

Reduction of UV-induced 

pigmentation by Stearyl 

Glycyrrhetinate (0.1%; before 

irradiation) and Licorice Extract 

P-T(40) (0.05%; after irradiation). 

A 

B 

A 

B 

A: Placebo 

B: SG / Placebo 

C: Placebo / P-T(40) 

D: SG / P-T(40) 

C 

D 

C 

D 

After 1 week 

After 5 weeks 

Updated: 2005-08





Evening 

Primrose 

Extract-P 

Purple 

Rice 

Extract-PC 

Extracted from seeds of Evening Primrose. Contains minimum 60% 

polyphenol compounds such as gallic acid, ellagic acid, 

pentagalloylglucose and catechin. Extremely strong anti-oxidant activity 

and excellent tyrosinase inhibitory effect. Superior substitute to arbutin 

and kojic acid. 

Rich in anthocyanine glycosides such as chrysanthemin (Cyanidin-3- 

glucoside) that are not contained in other types of rice. Tyrosinase 

inhibition effect. Inhibition of melanin formation. Synergistic skin 

lightening effect with vitamin C derivatives. SOD-like activity and DPPH 

radical scavenging effect. 

Indian Dates 


This extract derived from seed coats of Indian Dates (Tamarindus) 

contains large amounts of polyphenols, including condensed 

proanthocyanidine and acts as a strong anti-oxidant. Superior singlet 

oxygen scavenging effect. Inhibition of tyrosinase activity. 

Clove 


A very popular component of lightening skin care in Japan. Strong 

scavenger of radical oxygen species. SOD-like activity. Suppression of 

SCF (stem cell factor, one of melanin synthesis factors); prevention of 

growth of endothelin receptors. 

Black Tea 


Trendy and fashionable ingredient for a whitening series. Strong antioxidant. 

Suppresses Melanocyte Stimulating Hormones (MSH), 

activators of tyrosinase. Widely used in Japan as additional active in 

combination with vitamin C derivatives. 

Arnica 

Extract 

Extracted from flowers of Arnica Montana. Shows superior inhibition of 

melanin synthesis, comparable to Licorice extracts. 

Antipollon-HT 

Fine grained synthetic aluminum silicate. Clinically proven 

effects: pigmentation reduction, treatment of naevus 

nevocellularis and chloasma. Superior whitening ingredient for 

pack / mask type products and peeling formulations. 

Updated: 2005-08




inflammatory 

Our range of anti-inflammatory and irritation reducing ingredients contains superior 

actives, mainly of botanical origin. We offer various clinically tested materials: from 

licorice derivatives to well accepted actives, such as Shiso (Perilla) extract and 100% 

natural Bisabolol. Lecinol S-10 is an emulsifier with unique anti-irritation properties: it 

helps to prepare elegant emulsions and contributes to formulation’s safety. 



Dipotassium 

Glycyrrhizinate 

Stearyl 

Glycyrrhetinate 

Lecinol S-10 

Water-soluble active derived from licorice roots. Clinically tested in 

Japan and approved as a quasi-drug ingredient. Essential 

component of most skin care products in Japan. 

Reduces irritation and inflammation. Inhibits histamine release and 

hyaluronidase. Suppresses UV-induced erythema. 

Oil-soluble fraction of licorice. Superior anti-irritation and antiinflammatory 

properties. Clinically tested (prevention of UV-induced 

skin damage). Approved as an ingredient for quasi-drugs 

in Japan. 

Hydrogenated lecithin derived from soya. Contains 25-30% of 

Phosphatidyl Choline. Natural emulsifier with anti-inflammatory 

properties. Effectively reduces irritation. Decreases irritation potential 

of other surfactants. Enhances anti-inflammatory properties of oilsoluble 

actives (e.g. Stearyl Glycyrrhetinate). 

Shiso Extract NA 

Extract from the leafs of Perilla. 

Contains glucoside proven to 

possess anti-inflammatory properties. 

Anti-allergenic effect. Inhibition of 

TNF induction activity. Clinical 

evaluation in-vivo: improvement of 

allergic dermatitis (3%; 8 weeks; 

improvement: 80%). Recommended 

dosage to maintain healthy and 

natural skin: 0.5-3%. 

Before 

After 8 

weeks 

Scutellaria Root 


Extracted from the roots of Scutellaria baicalensis. Contains strong 

anti-inflammatory actives: baicalin and baicalein. Superior antihyaluronidase 

effect. SOD-like activity. Suppression of allergic 

reactions. 

Natural Bisabolol 

Obtained from direct distillation of Candeia’s (Vanillomopsis 

Erythropapa) essential oil. Contains minimum 95% of (-)-alpha - 

bisabolol isomer (L-alpha-bisabolol). Strong anti-irritation and antiinnflammatory 

properties. Reduces skin dryness. Four times more 

effective than synthetic bisabolol. 

Updated: 2004-11




inflammatory 


Kukui Nut Oil 

Whitch Hazel 


Artemisia Capillaris 


Olive Leaf Extract 


Butcher Broom 


Rich emollient oil from nuts of Kukui tree grown in Hawaii. 

Effectively slows transepidermal water loss and assists in 

treatment of burns, eczema and psoriasis. Provides elegant 

non-greasy feel to the formulation. 

Derived from leafs of Hamamelis virginiana. Strong inhibitor of 

hyaluronidase activity. Anti-oxidant. SOD-like activity. 

Extract derived from capitulum of Artemisia. A trendy 

ingredient for contemporary skin care. Contains terpene 

compounds, tannin and chlorogenic acid. Inhibits activity of 

hyaluronidase and suppresses allergenic reactions. Additional 

anti-tyrosinase and anti-microbial effects. 

This extract exhibits a whole range of anti-irritation effects: 

inhibition of platelet aggregation, suppression of 

hexosaminidase release and anti-oxidant activity. 

Extracts from the roots of Ruscus aculeatus. Contains saponin, 

ruscin, ruscoside. Anti-inflammatory, anti-allergy and cell 

growth activation effects. Prevention of platelet aggregation. 

SOD-like activity. 

Mulberry Extract BG 

Turmeric Extract BG 

Extracted from roots of Morus Alba (Kuwa). Sohakuhi (dried 

root bark of Mulberry) is a famous treatment traditionally used 

in Chinese medicine. Rich in phenylflavones and contains 

strong whitening active (Kuwanon). Anti-inflammatory 

property: carageenan / dextran edema suppression. 

This traditional Japanese extract Is made from rhizome of 

curcuma longa Linne and contains curcumin as a main active 

component. Superior anti-inflammatory activities: inhibition of 

phospholipase A2, inhibition of platelet aggregation. 

Green Tea Extract 


Extract form the leafs of Japanese green tea plant Camelia 

Sinensis. Rich with polyphenols and catechin. Demonstrates 

remarkable inhibition of hyaluronidase activity. Radical 

scavenging effect. A trendy ingredients for a natural 

product line. 

Updated: 2004-11



Natural Emulsifier for Sensitive Skin Care 

Lecinol S-10 


inflammatory 

Hydrogenated lecithin derived from soy bean. Contains 25-30% of Phosphatidyl Choline. Natural 

emulsifier with anti-inflammatory properties. Effectively reduces irritation. Decreases irritation potential 

of other surfactants. Enhances anti-inflammatory properties of oil-soluble actives (e.g. Stearyl 

Glycyrrhetinate). Emulsions made with Lecinol S-10 enhance percutaneous of active ingredients. 

Prevention of corneocytes’ damage 

caused by Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS). 

Closed patch (SLS: 5%); after 72 hours. 

Microscope photograph of 

corneocytes. 

Lecinol S-10 protects stratum corneum 

from damage by strong detergents. 

Non-treated cells 

Cells treated with 

1% Lecinol S-10 

Anti-stinging effect (in vivo) 

Weak Strong 

Average stinging score 

3 

2 

1 

Before 

After 1 week 

application of 

Lecinol S-10 

(1.0%) 

Water 

NEW 

DATA 

0.1% 

methylparaben 

solution 

Anti-inflammatory effect: inhibition of 

Prostaglandin E2 (in vitro) 

Application of Lecinol S-10 at 1.0% significantly 

reduced average stinging score against 

methylparaben solution (after 1 week; n=13). 

Control: Water 0.1% MP sol. 

Number of subjects who showed 

reduction of stinging score after 1 week 

application of Lecinol S-10 (1.0%) 

1 (8%) 7 (54%) 

2009-12



Texture Modifier / Stabilizer 

Alkyl Glyceryl Ether with Anti-inflammatory inflammatory Effect 

Batyl Alcohol EX / Batyl Alcohol 100 

Emollient and emulsifier. Effectively thickens emulsions at very low concentrations. Series of tests 

proved that Batyl Alcohol has inhibitory effects on release of inflammatory cytokines, interleukin- 

1α(IL-1α) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), produced by UVB-irradiated keratinocytes. 

In the skin care formulation Batyl Alcohol performs three functions: it improves texture, increases 

stability and provides anti-inflammatory / anti-stress / DNA protecting effects. Recommended 

dosage: 0.2 ~ 1.0%. 

Effect on UVB-induced DNA damage 

250 

Tail length (mm) 

200 

150 

* ** 

Control (not 

irradiated) 

UVB 

100 

Control 0 10 

UVB 

irradiation 

Batyl 

Alcohol 

(mM) 

UVB + 10 mM 

Batyl Alcohol 

NHKs were pretreated with Batyl Alcohol for 24 hours and then irradiated by UVB. The DNA damage 

after 2 hours from UVB irradiation was evaluated by COMET Assay. Tail length shows amount of 

damaged / fragmented DNA in nuclei. Nuclei treated with Batyl Alcohol showed significantly less 

DNA damage. 

Suppression of UV-induced 

inflammation 

(Minimal erythema dose (MED) in 

humans ) 

MED 

(ratio of non-application-site) 

1.40 

1.30 

1.20 

1.10 

1.00 

0.90 

0.80 

Non-application Placebo 1 % Batyl Alcohol 

2006-04



Anti-acne 

This section presents active agents and other ingredients recommended for a fine 

anti-acne product. Our actives are safe and clinically tested in Japan. 

Primary Ingredients Botanical ingredients are marked : 

Licorice Extract P-UP 

Extract from the roots of Glycyrrhiza inflata. 

Contains 15% of Licochalcone A, a strong antiacne 

active. Inhibits 5-alpha reductase and 

androgen receptor activity. Suppresses lipase and 

phospholipase A2. Anti-microbial effect against 

acne inducing bacteria. Clinically tested in Japan: 

55% improvement after 4 weeks at concentration 

0.1%. Available in powder form and as an 

aqueous solution (Aqua Licorice Extract P-U). 

Before 

After 4 

weeks 

VC-IP 

Unique oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. Strong 

skin lightening / clarifying agent and antioxidant. 

Clinically tested in Japan: 80% 

improvement in 2-4 months. Reduces acne 

along with removal of pigmentation, spots and 

freckles. 

Before 

After 9 

weeks 

Takallophane 

Fine grained synthetic aluminum silicate. 

Clinically tested: visibly reduces acne after 2-4 

months at 2.5% concentration. Superior 

ingredient for anti-acne pack / mask type 

products, milky lotions and peeling formulations. 

Recommended dosage: 2 – 5%. 

Before 

After 8 

weeks 

Updated: 2004-11



Anti-acne 


Dipotassium 

Glycyrrhizinate 

Water-soluble active derived from licorice roots. Clinically 

tested in Japan and approved as a quasi-drug ingredient. 

Essential component of most skin care products in Japan. 

Reduces irritation and inflammation. Inhibits histamine release 

and hyaluronidase. Suppresses UV-induced erythema. 

Lecinol S-10 

Hydrogenated lecithin derived from soya. Contains 25-30% of 

Phosphatidyl Choline. Natural emulsifier with antiinflammatory 

properties. Effectively reduces irritation. 

Decreases irritation potential of other surfactants. Enhances 

anti-inflammatory properties of oil-soluble actives (e.g. Stearyl 

Glycyrrhetinate). Skin-friendly and safe surfactant solution for 

an anti-acne formula. 

Nikkolipid 81S 

Lipid complex with emulsifying property; superior affinity and 

compatibility with skin; anti-inflammatory and moisturizing 

effects; improves rough skin by enhancing skin’s barrier 

function. 

Batyl Alcohol 

Emollient and emulsifier. Effectively thickens emulsions at very 

low concentrations. Series of tests proved that Batyl Alcohol has 

inhibitory effects on release of inflammatory cytokines, 

interleukin-1α(IL-1α) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2), produced 

by UVB-irradiated keratinocytes. 

Mukurossi Extract 

Powder 

Extract of Mukurossi (Sapindus). Contains saponin glucosides 

and exhibits superior anti-microbial effect against acne causing 

bacteria. Inhibits lipase activity. Anti-inflammatory effect. 

Excellent botanical addition to an anti-acne line. 

Updated: 2004-11




Reduction of size of facial pores is a very popular new trend in skin care 

development in Japan. Diminishing of visual appearance of pores (especially in T- 

zone) is an important advantage of modern treatment product. 

Primary Ingredient Botanical ingredients are marked : 

Rose Fruit Extract BG-01 

INCI: ROSA MULTIFLORA FRUIT EXTRACT, WATER, BUTYLENE GLYCOL 

Rose Fruit Extract BG-01 exhibits several properties very important for 

diminishing of appearance of skin pores: 

1. Reduction of sebum secretion 

2. Astringent effect 

3. Regulation of keratinization 

Regulation of keratinization 

Cornified envelope (CE) is a strong membrane covering with outside of corneocyte. This 

membrane is produced from a special protein: involucrin. Therefore, low amount of involucrin 

causes incomplete CE production and results in misbalance of desquamation. It is recognized 

that stimulation of involucrin production helps to promote better desquamation and keep stratum 

corneum in fine condition. 

Promotion of involucrin synthesis Involucrin synthesis (%) 

Dosage 

Rose Fruit Extract BG-01 enhanced 

involucrin synthesis effectively. 

Involucrin 

synthesis (%) vs 

placebo 

Rose Fruit 

Extract BG-01 0.6% + 54.5% 

160 

140 

120 

100 

80 

60 

40 

20 

0 


(0.6%) 

Placebo 

Rose Fruit 2007.04





In-vivo evaluation: reduction of visual appearance of pores. 

After 4 weeks of application (twice daily). 

Before testing 

Picture of replicas 

After testing 

Microscopic picture 

(after 4 weeks of application) 

1% Rose Fruit Extract 

BG-01 

Control 



Close up pictures 



Control 



Control 

Change in volume of pores 

The volume of pores was 

significantly decreased by 

1% Rose Fruit Extract BG-01 in 

all age groups. 

Volume of pore 

300 

250 

200 

150 

100 

50 

0 

all Over 30 Over 35 

Age 

Before test 

After test 

Rose Fruit 2007.04



True Moisturizing / NMF 

Oil-soluble derivative of vitamin B6: promotion of 

filaggrin and NMF synthesis in skin. “True natural 

moisturizing” from inside the skin. 

VB6-IP 

INCI Name: Pyridoxine Tris-Hexyldecanoate 

VB6-IP is an oil-soluble liquid ester of vitamin B6. 

It provides effective natural moisturization through increase of NMF production in the skin. 

VB6-IP stimulates production of filaggrin, the precursor protein for amino acids, which are an 

essential part of skin’s NMF. VB6-IP is extremely stable against heat and oxidation and due to its 

lipophilic nature it exhibits much higher skin penetration than hydrophilic pure vitamin B6. 

NIKKOL VB6-IP 

Mechanism of action of VB6-IP 

Stratum 

corneum 

Granular layer 

NIKKOL VB6-IP 

Basal layer 

Skin hydration 

Degradation into amino 

acids 

Hydrolysis 

Filaggrin 

Protein decomposition 

Profilaggrin 

Translation 

Profilaggrin mRNA 

DNA transcription 

NIKKOL VB6-IP 

DNA 

VB6-IP 2009.07



True Moisturizing / NMF 

VB6-IP 

Blank VB6 VB6-IP 

Moisturizing effect (in-vivo) 

NEW 

DATA 

VB6-IP 2009.07



Moisturizers 

Providing skin with moisture and retaining water inside dermis are two functions 

expected from almost any skin care product. Nikko Chemicals offers various 

moisturizing actives, as well as other ingredients with moisturizing properties. 



Stable emulsion bases containing ceramides 2, 3, 6Ⅱ, 

Ceralipids and other ingredients: phytosteryl isostearate (Ceralipid 

PI236) ; phytosphingosine (Ceralipid PS236). Provide skin 

with ceramides to improve lipid barrier and preserve 

moisture. Dissolve easily in water due to lower melting 

point compared to ceramides; form lamella structure to 

keep ceramides stable when diluted with water. 



 

Luffa Extract BG 

Blend of three oriental extracts with strong moisturizing 

activity. Increases profilaggrin mRNA, provides skin with 

amino acids and promotes synthesis of hyaluronic acids. 

A superior multifunctional complex for an effective 

moisturizing product. 

Extract from the tropical fruit Luffa. Rich with fruit saponins 

(lucyosides). Superior moisturizing properties. Clinically 

tested: 90% improvement in skin condition measured 12 

hours after application. 

Sodium 

Hyaluronate 

Phellodendron Extract 

BG-J 

Phytosteryl 

yl Isostearate 

This famous moisturizing agent makes skin look fresh and 

healthy. Available as powder and aqueous solution. An 

essential component of moisturizing regimen. 

Derived from bark of Phellodendron amurense. Contains 

various flavonoids and berberine. Increases Natural 

Moisture Factor (NMF) by stimulating profilaggrin mRNA 

synthesis. Additional anti-microbial and anti-oxidant 

properties. 

An ester of Phytosterol with strong moisturizing properties. 

Works as a superior emollient and stabilizer of emulsions. 

Phytosterol 

ol 

Plant-derived multi-sterol emollient agent from soya. 

Superior moisturizing effect. Excellent alternative to 

animal cholesterol. 

Updated: 2004-11



Moisturizers 



Lecinol series 

Lecinols are lecithin derivatives obtained through the 

hydrogenation of natural soya lecithin. Very safe biosurfactants 

with superior moisturizing properties. Lecinol 

series includes Lecinol S-10 and Lecinol S-PIE. 

Nikkomulese 41 

Nikkomulese 61H 

Great solution for a moisture retaining formula: O/W 

emulsifier; forms a gel network structure in water; superior 

water-proof effects; long-lasting moisturizing effects; can 

emulsify various kinds of oils. Increases SPF of sunscreen 

formulations. 

Superior emulsifier and conditioning agent for a hair care 

formula; forms a gel network structure in water; can emulsify 

various kinds of oils; provides preparations with superior 

moisturizing and conditioning effects and good stability. 

Phytosteryl 

Hydroxystearate 

Ester of plant sterol (phytosterol) and hydroxystearic acid. 

High moisture keeping ability. Provides rich feeling to the 

formulation. Acts as co-emulsifier in O/W and W/O 

emulsions. Prevents crystallization of poorly soluble 

substances. Improves skin affinity of formulation. 

Rehmannia Extract 


Extract from the roots of Rehmannia Glutinosa. Contains 

various flavonoids, catalpol and saccharides. Increases 

Natural Moisture Factor (NMF) by stimulating profilaggrin 

mRNA synthesis. Prevents irritation resulting from dry skin. 

White Lily Extract BG 

White Lily Extract BG is extracted from flower bulbs of Lilium 

candidum. It contains such active constituents as 

saccharides and amino acids. Helps fight dry skin by 

retaining moisture inside dermis. 

Ginseng Extract BG 

Ginseng is probably the most famous medical herb in the 

world. Contains various saponin glucosides. Cell activation 

effect. Superior moisturizing effect. 

Updated: 2005-08



Moisturizers 

Appendix: Unique Emulsifier for Highest Moisture Protection 


Great solution for a moisture retaining formula: O/W emulsifier; forms a gel network structure in 

water; superior water-proof effects; long-lasting moisturizing effects; can emulsify various kinds of 

oils. Increases SPF of sunscreen formulations and helps to keep active ingredients on the skin. 

In addition, Nikkomulese 41 exhibits anti-microbial properties, allowing to reduce preservative level 

in the formula. 

Water-resistance test 

Creams prepared with 

Nikkomulese 41 exhibited much 

stronger water-resistance 

compared to those prepared 

with traditional emulsifiers. (As 

shown in the picture, cream 

prepared with Nikkomulese 41 

(2.5%), is still visible on slide glass 

after washing.) 

[Before washing] [After washing] [Before washing] [After washing] 

Cream with 



traditional emulsifiers 

Water-resistance testing of 

creams on Transpore® tape. 

Creams were evenly applied on 

the tape and then rinsed with 

water. 

Cream prepared with 

Nikkomulese 41 (2.5%) is still visible 

on the tape after rinsing. 




traditional emulsifiers 

Updated: 2005-08



Moisturizers 

Appendix: Ester-type type Lanolin Substitute for High 

Moisture Retention 

Nikkowax LM 

Waxy ingredient in a paste form, which mainly consists of polyglycerols, fatty acids and longchain 

dibasic acids. Botanical substitute to lanolin. An excellent emollient with superior water loss 

prevention (2 times higher than lanolin). 

Great dispersion promoter for pigments. Binding agent for oils. Melting point of Nikkowax LM 

(approx. 30 degrees C) is similar to body temperature. 

Provides non-greasy, smooth and moist skin feel upon application. Adds shine and gloss to 

preparations. 

Comparison of binding effects of NIKKOWAX LM and lanolin oil on two separated oil layers. 

1 Castor Seed Oil/Mineral Oil 

2 Castor Seed Oil/Mineral Oil + NIKKOWAX LM 

3 Castor Seed Oil/Mineral Oil + Lanolin 

1 Oils separate 2 Nikkowax LM 3 Lanolin makes 

binds oils clearly 

oil blend cloudy 

Updated: 2005-08




Promotion of skin turnover is an important feature of a moisturizing / skin balancing 

personal care line. 



Citrus Extract 


Blend of three types of citrus extracts from Japan (Citrus 

Unshiu, Citrus Junos and Citrus Aurantium) . Improves 

turnover speed reduced by UV and internal factors. Strong 

keratinocyte proliferation. 

Clinical trial (in-vivo): promotion of 

skin turnover. 

Surface area of corneocytes was 

evaluated by digital planimeter. 

After 7 days of application, 1% 

solution of Citrus Extract Complex 

BG showed 8% increase of turnover 

compared to butylene glycolic 

solution. 

0.5% Butylene Glycol 

1% Citrus Extract 


Surface area (mm 2 ) 

1000 

900 

800 

954.3 

967.1 

836.6 

900.1 

1 8 

Days 

Alpinia Leaf 


Derived from the leaf of Alpinia Speciosa. Promotes 

collagen synthesis, prevents degradation of collagen and 

accelerates growth of fibroblast cells. Estrogen-like activity. 

Clinically proven turnover promoting effect. 

Clinical trial (in-vivo): promotion of 

skin turnover. Number of subjects: 5. 

Lotion with 2% Alpinia Leaf Extract 

BG reduced turnover time by 50 

hours (2 days) compared to 

placebo lotion. 

Average turnover (days) 

25.5 

25 

24.5 

24 

23.5 

23 

22.5 

22 

Alpinia Leaf 

Extract BG (2%) 

Placebo 

Updated: 2005-08




Promotion of skin turnover is an important feature of a moisturizing / skin balancing 

personal care line. 



Jujube Extract 


Extract from Zizyphus jujuba fruit. Demonstrates c-AMP activation 

and turnover promotion effect. 

Clinical trial (in-vivo): 

promotion of skin turnover. 

Surface area of 

corneocytes was 

evaluated by digital 

planimeter. 

Surface area of corneocytes (μm 2 ) 

1400 

1200 

1000 

800 

600 

400 

Before application 

Placebo 

Jujube 

Extract BG-J 

After 27days 

Updated: 2006-04



Anti-oxidation / Anti-stress 

Rose Myrtle Extract BG80 

Extract from Rhodomyrtus tomentosa (plant from subtropical zones in Southeast Asia). ROSE MYRTLE 

EXTRACT BG80 suppresses UV induced DNA damage in skin cells due to active oxygen eliminating effect. 

Glutathione (GSH) is an 

antioxidant tripeptide which 

protects cells from toxins such 

as free radicals. Up regulating 

glutathione is important for 

ROS suppression. 

Promotion of Glutathione Synthesis 

Sample was added to human fibroblasts and 

assay of total glutathione content in the cells 

was evaluated after 24 hours. 

Suppression of DNA damage induced by UVB (Comet Assay test) 

2008-01




Rose Myrtle Extract BG80 

NEW 

DATA 

Suppression of formation of UV-induced erythema (in vivo) 

Method: Lotion with 1% Rose Myrtle Extract BG 

and placebo lotion were applied on upper 

arm of volunteers (n=5) twice daily for 2 weeks. 

After pretreatment, the treated area was 

separated into 6 sites and irradiated with 

various doses of UVB. The erythema levels were 

evaluated 6 hours after UVB irradiation. 

Rose Myrtle Extract BG at 1% showed 23% 

suppression of erythema score. 

2009-05




Zinc-Glycine 

Complex 

In the body, metallothionein, an antioxidant protein, acts as a natural sunscreen to reduce 

adverse effects of UV irradiation. Metallothionein is very effectively induced by zinc, however, zinc 

in ionized form has poor skin penetrating ability and cannot be uptaken into cells in sufficient 

amounts. To solve this problem, we synthesized and examined various types of zinc complexes 

containing different amino acids as ligands. As a result, we have developed Zinc-Glycine 

Complex, a zinc complex with glycine, which showed superior induction of metallothionein in the 

body and effectively reduced oxidative stress. 

Zinc-Glycine Complex triggers expression of intracellular 

metallothionein that inhibits tyrosinase activity. 

It enhances cells’ tolerance to UV radiation and oxidative stress 

and reduces UV-induced melanogenesis. 

Effect on expression of intracellular metallothionein (MT) 

25 

20 

15 

10 

Zinc-Glycine Complex, at different concentrations, and 

10 μmol/L zinc chloride, as a reference, were added to 

different samples of human keratinocytes (HaCaT cells). 

After a 24-hour incubation period, MT protein expression 

was analyzed using ELISA method. Zinc-Glycine Complex 

increases the amount of MT more efficiently compared to 

zinc chloride. 

MT protein expression analyzed using ELISA method 

p




Zinc-Glycine 

Complex 

Suppression 

of melanin 

synthesis 

In vivo: reduction of UV induced pigmentation (skin lightening) 

Subjects: 6 people. Dosage: 1%. 

UV: 1.5 MED. 

Term: 2 weeks. 

NEW 

DATA 

Positive control: Sodium Ascorbyl 

Phosphate; 3% 

2009-08



Anti-age / Anti-stress / AQP3 


Caprylic/capric triglyceride solution containing 10% of an ester of retinoic acid and natural vitamin E. 

Effectively reduces skin wrinkles at 1% concentration (clinically tested). Promotes collagen synthesis. 

Scavenges active oxygen species. Does not release retinoic acid due to the resistance to 

breakdown by esterase. Low skin irritation potential. 

Suppression of DNA damage induced by UVB (Comet Assay test) 

Tail length (mm) 

120 

100 

80 

60 

40 

** ** ** 

Control 

67.2 mM 

UVB 10mJ/cm 2 

92.4 mM 

DNA damage was 

evaluated by the 

comet assay. HaCaT 

keratinocytes which 

were treated with 

Tocoretinate for 24 h, 

were exposed to UVB 

at 100 mJ/cm 2 . 

20 

UVB + TR 

0 

Control 

UVB 

(0.0001%) (0.0002%) 

72.6 mM 

Significance **: p



High Purity Tocotrienol 

Anti-oxidant 

Mixed Tocotrienols 92 

INCI Name: Tocotrienols 

Mixed Tocotrienols 92 is natural (plant derived) vitamin E with extremely high purity: over 92%. 

It consists mainly of gamma-tocotrienol (35%), alpha-tocotrienol (20%) and beta-tocotrienol (10%). 

Very effective natural anti-oxidant. Inhibits inflammatory reactions induced by UV. Prevents 

pigmentation of skin and shows wrinkle improvement effect. GMO-free natural ingredient. 

Vitamin E is one of the most important phytonutrients in edible oils. It consists of eight isomers, a family of 

four tocopherols (alpha, beta, gamma and delta) and four tocotrienols (alpha, beta, gamma and 

delta). 

Tocotrienols show considerably superior antioxidant properties compared to dl-α-Tocopherol in clinical 

and experimental studies due to their better distribution in the fatty layers of the cell membrane. 

Suppression of inflammatory mediator’s 

increase induced by UV 

(prostaglandin E2) 

UVB(-) 

UVB(5mJ/cm 2 ) 

PGE 2 

(pg/μg protein) 

4.5 

4.0 

3.5 

3.0 

2.5 

** 

2.0 

** 

1.5 

1.0 

0.5 

0.0 

0 2.5 5 

Concentration of Mixed Tocotrienols 92 (mg/mL) 

Clinical trial (in-vivo): reduction of 

wrinkles. Concentration of Mixed 

Tocotrienols 92 : 1%. 

Left: replica; right: binary image. 

Before 

After 8 

weeks 

GSH (nmol/mg protein) 

100 

80 

60 

0 1.25 2.50 5.00 10.00 

Glutathione synthesis promotion 

Human keratinocytes were treated 

with TR-92 for 24 hours. After that GSH 

(glutathione) synthesis amount was 

measured by GSH reductase recycling 

method. Significance: ** p



Skin Defense / Anti-Stress 



VC-IP 

Unique oil-soluble vitamin C derivative. Inhibits activity of intracellular tyrosinase and melanogenesis. 

Reduces UV-induced cell/DNA damage. Prevents lipid peroxidation and skin aging. Remarkable 

heat- and oxidation-stability. Revitalizing effect on cells. Clinically tested. 

Inhibition of keratinocytes’ DNA 

damage induced by UVA. The light 

parts on the pictures (taken 1 hour 

after of UVA irradiation) indicate 8- 

hydroxyguanosine, an index of DNA 

damage. VC-IP effectively 

suppresses DNA damage in cells. 

No treatment 

VC-IP (80 mM) 

Protection of cell damage induced 

by UVA. Microscopic pictures of 

keratinocytes 24 hours after 

irradiation. 

VC-IP treatment reduces cell death 

by 31.5%. 

No UVA UVA UVA + VC-IP 

Cili Extract BG 

Extract derived from fruit of Rosa roxburghii. Natural 

anti-oxidant with anti-inflammatory effect. Inhibits 

testosterone 5 alpha-reductase. 

Green Tea Extract BG 

Extract from leaves of Camellia Sinensis. Contains 

catechin, polyphenols and caffeine. Radical oxygen 

scavenging effect. Additional anti-inflammatory 

effect (inhibition of hyaluronidase). 

Loquat Leaf Extract 


Extract from leaves of Eriobotrya japonica. Contains 

triterpenoids (ursolic acid, oleanolic acid). Radical 

oxygen scavenging effect. Inhibition of lipase 


Updated: 2005-08




In this section we present some useful ingredients with anti-microbial properties. We 

offer safe and unique solutions to provide microbiological stability of skin and oral 

care products. 

Anti-microbial Ingredients Botanical ingredients are marked : 

Biosol 

Bactericidal, antiseptic and fungicidal agent. Very 

effective against different types of microorganisms. 

Biosol can be used in antiseptic washes, soaps and 

shampoos, as well as oral care. In oral care Biosol 

proves to effectively penetrate and decompose the 

bacterial film formed inside the mouth. Biosol has 

superior safety and stability and is easy-to-use in the 

cosmetic preparations. 

Licorice Extract AM 

Anti-microbial version of of Glycyrrhiza glabra 

(licorice) extract for oral care (tooth paste, mouth 

washes etc). Contains up to 1.5% active fraction 

Glabridin. Strong anti-microbial effect. Inhibition of 

dental plaque formation. Anti-caries effect. 

Recommended use level: 0.1%. 

Mukurossi Extract 

Powder 

Extract of Mukurossi (Sapindus). Contains saponin 

glucosides and exhibits superior anti-microbial 

effect against acne causing bacteria. Inhibits 

lipase activity. Additional anti-inflammatory effect. 

Excellent botanical active to increase 

microbiological stability of a skin care formulation. 

Honeysuckle 


Extract derived from leaf of Lonicera Japonica. 

Strong anti-microbial effect. Inhibition of c-AMP 

phosphodiesterase. 

Zanthoxylum 


This extract is obtained from a plant which grows in 

the mountains of Japan. Anti-microbial properties of 

this plant are well known and it has been widely used 

in traditional medicine. Additional anti-oxidation and 

anti-inflammatory effects. 

Updated: 2005-06




Anti-microbial Ingredients 


Nikkoguard DL 

This co-emulsifier with antibacterial efficacy consists of 

Glyceryl Caprate and two polyglyceryl fatty acid esters 

(plant derived and approved for use as food additives 

in Japan). Allows to reduce or exclude parabens or 

other preservatives from the formulation. Shows strong 

effect against a variety of bacteria even in acidic 

conditions. 

MGU 

Glyceryl Undecylenate. Undecylenic acid prevents 

fungus from growing on the skin and is used topically to 

treat athlete's foot, excessive sweating, itching and 

burning. MGU, an ester of Undecylenic acid and 

glycerol, has strong anti-bacterial properties. It can 

reduce amount of preservatives in cosmetic 

preparations. 

Recommended dosage as preservative: 0.3%. 

Updated: 2005-08



Slimming 

Slimming actives ingredients help to improve blood circulation, reduce 

subcutaneous fats and prevent swelling. Our additives exhibit superior slimming / 

swelling reduction properties and show great results when tested in-vivo. 



DST-H 

DST-H (Dextran Sulfate, Sodium salt) increases production of 

nitrogen oxide (NO) in epidermal cells and promotes blood 

circulations in epidermis. It also prevents and reduces 

swelling of face and body. In-vivo tests: immediate slimming 

effect on calves, legs and thighs (up to -1.5%); reduction of 

swelling of legs and thighs after continuous application. 

Clinical trial (in-vivo): 

reduction of leg swelling. 

Number of subjects: 5. 

Gel with 5% DST-H reduced 

swelling of legs immediately 

after application and this 

effect was continuous (no 

rebound swelling). 

Swelling of legs (%) 

103.0 

102.5 

102.0 

101.5 

101.0 

100.5 

100.0 

99.5 

Legs 

Placebo (left leg) 

Gel with DST-H 5% (right leg) 

99.0 

Morning 

Evening Right after 

(before application 

application) 

10 min. 30 min. 

Updated: 2005-09



Semi-finished Bases 

These semi-finished base products make it possible to formulate effective skin care 

with minimum effort and energy. Nikko NET series includes emulsion bases with 

actives, which are usually difficult to incorporate into finished formula. Nikkosomes 

are versatile solutions for nano-size microemulsions with various actives. 

NET series 

NET-VCIP 

Oil-in-water emulsion base with 50% of premixed oil-soluble vitamin 

C derivative (VC-IP; ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate). Formulation with 

high content of vitamin C can be obtained by simple dilution. 

Excellent stability and uniform particle size. 

NET-ACE 

O/W emulsion base with vitamin derivatives: retinyl palmitate, 

ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate and dl-α-tocopheryl acetate. This 

emulsion base makes it easy to keep these oil-soluble vitamin 

derivatives stable and add them into cosmetic preparations. 

NET-FS 

This emulsion base for skin care incorporates 25% of silicone oil 

(methylphenyl polysiloxane), which is usually difficult to emulsify. Its 

oil ingredients provide good spreadability and superior light feeling 

after application on the skin. They also demonstrate emollient effect 

by forming a thin silicone film on skin surface. NET-FS is very stable 

against oxidation and separation. It has excellent stability due to 

narrow particle distribution with average particle size of 230 nm. 

NET-ASA 

Hair care conditioning base with 50% of amodimethicone. 

Amodimethicone greatly improves the texture of the hair by making 

it supple. An easy-to-handle ingredient that disperses quickly in 

water and does not adhere to an emulsifying machine. It can be 

utilized in rinses and treatments. 

Pre-solubilized 

VC-IP 

Soluble VCIP 

Easy-to-incorporate nanoemulsion containing oil-soluble vitamin C 

derivative (VC-IP; ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate). This clear base allows 

to add VC-IP in transparent formulation (lotions) by simple dilution. 

Stable particle size (70 nm) and remarkable pH stability. 

Updated: 2005-07




These unique treated powders provide various remarkable properties to skin care 

and makeup formulations: superior softness, creamy feel, fine line and wrinkle 

concealing effect, reduction of shine and many others. 

Treated Powders 

Plastic Powder 

D-400 

INCI: HDI/Trimethylol Hexyllactone Crosspolymer and Silica. It 

provides remarkable soft texture and smooth feeling to 

formulations. The softness of Plastic Powder D-400 is 50 times 

higher than nylon powder and over 100 times higher than 

PMMA. Superior pore / wrinkle concealing effect. 

Wrinkle concealing effect (artificial 

skin). Powders are mixed with 

mineral oil (50:50). 

PMMA Nylon 12 Plastic Powder 

D-400 

Updated: 2005-09




Agar Treated Powders 

Agar Sericite E-4 

Agar Talc F-4F 

New concept in treated powders: sericite and talc treated with agar. Agar coating provides unique 

control over moisture: it absorbs moisture in wet conditions, and releases it when air becomes dry. 

Contributes to the long-lasting effect of makeup product. 

Powders with agar treated 

surface provide original concept 

of “self moisture control conditions 

of makeup formula in different 

conditions”. This concept is 

based upon the fact that agar 

film is able to absorb excess sweat 

or water and release it in dry 

condition. 

Agar treated powders improve 

stability and adherence of 

makeup to skin due to formation 

of agar gel. Superior application 

texture. Highly recommended for 

water and sweat resistant 

formulations. 

Agar coating 

pigment pigment pigment pigment 

Agar + water gel 

Sweat or 

water 

Skin 

pigment 

pigment pigment pigment 

Skin 

Moisture Control Properties of Agar Treated Powder 

1.2 

1 

Humidity: 

80% 40% 80% 40% 80% 

Moisture(%) 

0.8 

0.6 

0.4 

0.2 

AGAR SERICITE E-4 

None treated Mica 

0 

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 

Time(Hours) 

2006-07




Special Powder for Soft Focus Effect 

LDR-CA 

INCI: Calcium Carbonate. The particles of this powder resemble rose flowers. In makeup formulation 

LDR-CA prevents luster (soft focus effect), effectively absorbs sebum and has acne preventing 

potential. 

LDR-CA has large surface 

area due to its petal-like 

appearance, while surface 

area of porous silica or mica is 

smaller, and pores are narrow. 

Therefore, LDR-CA has up to 2 

times higher oil / sebum 

absorbing capacity. 

LDR-CA (x1500) LDR-CA (x7000) Porous silica 

Luster prevention 

Artificial skin 

CAPRYLIC / 

CAPRIC 

TRIGLYCERIDE 

Sebum trapping effect (tested using 

lime zest oil, which resembles human 

sebum) 

Liquid 

foundation 

Loose powder 

Press 

Lime zest 

Face Powder A 

Face Powder B 

Oil 

Loose Powder 

containing 

5% LDR CA 

Regular Calcium 

Carbonate + 

CAPRYLIC/ 

CAPRIC 

TRIGLYCERIDE 

(1:1) 

LDR CA + 

CAPRYLIC/ 

CAPRIC 

TRIGLYCERIDE 

(1:1) 

2006-07



Hair Care 

Natural Moisturizing Extract 

Based on Amino Acids for Skin and Hair 

Hydrolyzed Coix Seed 

Natural Moisturizing Extract Based on Amino 

Acids for Skin and Hair . 

Amino acid composition of human hair (blue 

line) and Hydrolyzed Coix Seed (pink line). 

INCI Name: Hydrolyzed Coix Lacryma-Jobi 

Ma-Yuen Seed; Butylene Glycol; Water; 

Phenoxyethanol. 

Extract of coix seed is made using innovative 

high pressure enzyme decomposition 

technology with use of enzymes amylase and 

protease. Hydrolyzed Coix Seed contains 

large amounts of amino acids and provides 

moisturizing / hydrating effect on skin and 

strengthening effect on hair. 

Hydrolyzed Coix Seed’s amino acid 

composition resembles that of human hair. 

Therefore, it has strong protection and repair 

effect oh hair damage caused by dyes and 

permanent wave. High content of Cysteine 

(essential component of hair) is very 

important. 

Arginine 

Lysine 

Histidine 

Phenylalanine 

Tyrosine 

Leucine 

Isoleucine 

Methionine 

Valine 

Cysteine 

Alanine 

Glycine 

Proline 

Glutamate 

Serine 

Threonine 

Asparagine 

(% of all amino acids) 

Hydrolyzed Coix Seed: improvement of 

elasticity of dyed hair 

Elasticity of hair was measured by tension 

evaluating apparatus (in MIU) before and 

after dying and after treatment with test 

samples. 5% lotion with Hydrolyzed Coix 

Seed showed significant improvement of 

hair condition after dying. 

Before 

dying 

After 

treatment 

After 

dying 

Before 

dying 

After 

dying 

After 

treatment 

Efficacy: 

Aq. solution of Butylene Glycol - 26.9 % 

5.0% Hydrolyzed Coix Seed lotion +5.0 % Aq. solution of 5.0% Hydrolyzed Coix Seed 

Butylene Glycol 

lotion 

HydroCoix 2007.04



Hair Care 

Hydrolyzed Coix Seed 

Improvement of damaged hair (observed by electronic microscope) 

Test sample: 5% HYDROLYZED COIX SEED solution 

Procedure : 

Normal hair is put into hair dye solution for 20 

minutes, rinsed and dried by hot air (repeated 5 

times). 

Hair dye solution : 

7.40% hydrogen peroxide water (H2O2) (30%) 

4.45% ammonia water (28%) 

88.15% water 

Treatment: 

Damaged hair is put into sample solution for 20 

minutes, rinsed and dried. 

Damaged hair Hair treated with 5% 

HYDROLYZED COIX SEED 

Improvement of flexibility hair 

Test samples: 5% HYDROLYZED COIX SEED solution 

Procedure: normal hair is placed into shampoo solution for 1 minute (1% Sodium Polyoxyethylene 

Lauryl Ether Sulfate), rinsed, placed into sample solution for 5 minutes and rinsed again. 

Then hair is tied up and the speed of untying of hair (seconds) is evaluated. 

Second 0 Second 5 Second 6 

Control 

5% HYDROLYZED 

COIX SEED 

Control 

5% HYDROLYZED 

COIX SEED 

Control 

5% HYDROLYZED 

COIX SEED 

12 

11.2 

10 

8 

6 

4 

2 

0 

5.7 

Index of flexibility of hair 

5% HYDROLYZED COIX SEED solution 

Control 

HydroCoix 2007.04


1-4-8 NIHONBASHI-BAKUROCHO, CHUOKU, TOKYO, 103-0002, JAPAN 

TEL: 81-3-3661-1677 FAX: 81-3-3664-8620 

E-mail: inter@nikkol.co.jp 

www.nikkol.co.jp

Siratro Extract BG - Cosmesi.it

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