SA Express May 2013 magazine - Southafrica.to

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@ P L A Y In Another Era… THE HAMLETS OF HOGSBACK AND HAMBURG TEXT & IMAGES © NICK VAN DER LEEK Not only are Hogsback and Hamburg destinations far from the hustle and bustle of modern city life, they also leave time behind as Nick van der Leek recently discovered. 42 Indwe
@ P L A Y Hogsback Some landscapes are a dime a dozen. One passes through them unaffected, except for the urge to be somewhere else. But once in a while one comes across a very special place. It starts gradually, the charm, with glimpses of vivid caterpillars curled around sharp, white acacia thorns growing beside farm fences. Then more and more cows start appearing on the verges of the road, until even the road signs warn of their crossing. Goats scatter across a crest in the road, hog families turn up, and in the background, dozens of circular huts sprout out of the green earth like multicoloured toadstools. Finally, even the hillsides erupt with silver fountains and waterfalls. Where else in South Africa does the countryside come alive with such appeal? The Hamlet of Hogsback has such a distinct way of life for many reasons, chief among them is that it is not too easy to get to, located as it is more than 220 km from Port Elizabeth and about an hour from Grahamstown. Of course, once the effort has been made, the place feels a world apart from the usual tourist town. The ancient Afro-montane forests, the mists, the waterfalls, the abundance of green, all makes it feel very much like Tolkien’s Middle Earth. And while some of the more mischievous and imaginative locals would have you believe the area is home to Hobbits and Elves (and that Hogsback was the inspiration for Lord of the Rings), it is plausible, but not quite reality. On a local website, a reporter writes somewhat tonguein-cheek: “We have the mountains, the snows, the forests, the flowing streams – Hogsback is obviously the inspiration for Middle Earth. Many of our inhabitants also closely resemble trolls and dragons! How could some central Free State town Indwe 43
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SA Express May 2013 magazine - Southafrica.to

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