2005 SUSTAINABLE DEVELOPMENT REPORT

Green chemistry
The aim of green chemistry is the development
of raw materials and processes that
ensure maximum human and environmental
health and safety.
To achieve this goal, greater emphasis is
placed on the use of renewable raw materials
and the development of low ecotoxicity
biodegradable active ingredients in accordance
with the basic principles of green
chemistry published by Paul Anatas in 1998
(Anatas P., Warner J.C., Green Chemistry,
Oxford University Press, New York, 1998, p30).
In 2005, a certain number of “green process”
indicators were introduced at research level
to select, from the design phase, those
processes limiting the use of raw materials
and discharge levels.
A commitment to green chemistry
The priority focus is now on raw materials of
plant origin. However, in the raw material
selection process, L’Oréal R&D promotes the
performance of its cosmetic products. This
approach requires the use of raw materials of
non-vegetal origin, as well as raw materials
of vegetal origin.
When the use of “artificial” raw materials is
necessary, priority is given to those manufactured
using methods that are environmentallyfriendly,
using the definition defined by Delf
University (R.A. Sheldon, Puer Appl. Chem.
Vol. 72, 7, p 1233 (2000)). This priority approach
is further backed by the “green chemistry”
approach that was introduced in 2004.
The environmental impact of
our raw materials
In order to specify the environmental impact
of its activity, L’Oréal has set itself the goal
of strengthening the information about the
raw materials it uses in terms of the criteria
of persistence, bioaccumulation and ecotoxicity.
This approach was initiated in 2004 and is
scheduled for completion by the end of 2007.
In addition to internal expertise built up in
this area over many years, L’Oréal also taps
into the shared knowledge and reports
obtained jointly with the suppliers of these raw
materials in order to meet this commitment.
Sustainable Development Report_L’ORÉAL 2005
Green chemistry means prioritising renewable raw materials and processes that don’t harm the environment.
Furthermore, significant efforts have been
made to foster our cooperation in the area
of plant biomass recovery and the development
of environmentally friendly processes.
For example, L’Oréal joined the Agrice consortium,
in the Industry and Agri-resource
competitive sector.
Finally, a proactive stance has been adopted
with regard to our suppliers which has made
it possible to identify among the raw materials
in our portfolio those based on more
environmentally friendly processes, and we
work with our suppliers to define and implement
possible improvements.
This overall approach will be pursued in
2006. The introduction of green indicators
will allow us to track the progress made.
L’Oréal has set itself the target of:
■ measuring the environmental impact of the
used raw materials,
■ promoting the use of raw materials identified
as environmental friendly,
■ extending the evaluation of raw materials
considered necessary and relevant when the
evaluation (calculated or measured) results
in an unfavourable environmental profile,
■ substituting those raw materials with a confirmed
unfavourable environmental impact.
L’Oréal rejects the introduction of new raw
materials that have an unfavourable environmental
profile, such as substances classified
as ‘very persistant, very bio-accumulative’ and
‘persistent, bio-accumulative’, in compliance
with the future European REACH regulations,
and is also monitoring all known information
about the authorised substances it uses. For
example, although triclosan and musk ketone
are authorised, L’Oréal closely follows the
ongoing research so that it can react swiftly
if any environmental risks are found.
Including environmental, social and
societal issues in the selection of
our plant extracts
Aware that its activities may have an impact on
the population and balance of the regions where
the plant extracts in its raw materials are sourced,
L’Oréal has set itself the goal of improving
LEXICON
AGRICE (Agriculture for Green Chemistry
and Energy) is a French research programme
on bioproducts managed by ADEME-the
French agency for the environment and energy.
It promotes applied technology research. Its
prime concern is the replacement of products
of fossil origin with products of plant origin.
Triclosan is a broad-spectrum antimicrobial
agent which, up until now, has
not aroused any concern, but some
recent studies have indicated that it may
have the potential to disrupt certain
ecosystems. There is no scientific evidence
to restrict usage of this ingredient
in the specific application where it
is needed. However, we will continue to
examine any new information available.
Some recent research has shown that
among the artificial musks used in fragrances,
musk ketone presents a risk
for the environment, essentially through
aquatic contamination. A general analysis
of fragrant products is being carried
out to systematically detect among
those containing musk, the ones with
musk ketone, to enable substitution if
and when necessary.