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business advice - Craft Focus Magazine

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ethically sourced fabrics<br />

We all know about the horrible working conditions many people endure in third world<br />

countries so we feel it is important to think green By Phil Wheeler<br />

We are a family-run fabric <strong>business</strong> in Mid<br />

Wales and from there we run a shop and<br />

website supplying organic and Fairtrade cotton,<br />

colour grown cotton and bamboo, linen and<br />

silk fabrics to designers, shops and outlets<br />

throughout the UK and Europe. In order to do<br />

this, we work with growers, spinners, weavers<br />

and women’s cooperatives, herbal dyers, colour<br />

growers and designers in India and China.<br />

We are close to and have been involved with<br />

CAT, (Centre for Alternative Technology), who<br />

are the primary leaders in ecological thinking in<br />

the UK. I think it was the connection with CAT<br />

that was the primary factor in us searching out<br />

organic cotton.<br />

We started selling cloth for crafts, fashion<br />

and furnishing on a market stall 30 years ago.<br />

At the time there were fi ve stalls selling fabric<br />

and <strong>business</strong> was very good for all of us.<br />

Our four children all helped with the market<br />

stall giving them useful experience such as<br />

to acquire customer patience, service, and<br />

<strong>business</strong> skills, as well as how to cope with<br />

being cold, desperate for the loo, and tired<br />

whilst still having a sense of humour at the end<br />

of a long day!<br />

As the popularity of the markets began to<br />

fade, my wife Ann decided it was a good time<br />

to open a shop and so we opened Fabrics Ltd<br />

in Machynlleth. The shop is now run by our son<br />

Sam and sells huge range of unusual and varied<br />

cloth from patchwork to felt and haberdashery,<br />

designer curtain fabrics to fashion cloths.<br />

Ethical cotton<br />

Being in this environment, in this green valley<br />

and close to CAT we started looking at how<br />

the cotton fabric in our shop was produced<br />

and we were astonished to see what damage<br />

was caused to people and ecology. Millions of<br />

families farm cotton and 20,000 people die<br />

directly each year from the effects of toxic<br />

spraying of cotton and millions have their<br />

72 craftfocus<br />

“We saw on our visit that<br />

the small step of choosing<br />

organic and fair trade cotton,<br />

and choosing to connect<br />

with rather than exploit the<br />

people, can and does make<br />

a difference to the lives of<br />

many families”<br />

lives affected or seriously shortened (WHO).<br />

Worldwide about 25 per cent of pesticide<br />

spray is used on cotton, but agriculturally<br />

it accounts for only about 4 per cent of<br />

land use. The sprays used are often banned in<br />

the EU and are similar to the nerve gases used<br />

in WW1.<br />

Fabric Ltd sells lots of cotton based products<br />

On a trip to Kerala, India, Nancy Wheeler<br />

meets with a group of fashion students<br />

and so we had the dilemma of knowing we<br />

were damaging the people who produced<br />

the cotton for our fabrics. Now we are trying<br />

to promote organic cotton as an alternative<br />

and customers online and in the shop are<br />

increasingly turning to organic cotton.<br />

We make and import over one hundred<br />

plain and patterned organic and fair-trade<br />

cottons for clothing, furnishing and bedding as<br />

well as our own organic cotton towels. Most<br />

of the fabrics are made on hand looms and<br />

have the irregular texture and charm of silk.<br />

Many have the words ’organic cotton’ on the<br />

selvedge so that customers will perceive the<br />

difference and sometimes use the wording as<br />

decoration. We import colour grown cotton<br />

that is grown in shades of ochre and green and<br />

therefore requires no dyeing and herbal dyed<br />

cottons which are dyed with medicinal herbs<br />

and roots. We have bamboo fabrics, jerseys,

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