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RUSSIA<br />

Soups have always played an important role in the Russian meal.<br />

The traditional range of soups such as shchi, borscht, ukha,<br />

rassolnik, solyanka, botvin`, okroshka, and teur' was enlarged in<br />

the 18th to 20th centuries by both European and Central Asian<br />

staples like clear soups, pureed soups, stews, and many others.<br />

Russian soups can be divided into at least 7 large groups:<br />

Cold soups based on kvas, such as teur', okroshka, and botvin'ya.<br />

Light soups and stews based on water and vegetables. Noodle<br />

soups with meat, mushroom, and milk. Soups based on cabbage,<br />

most prominently Shchi. Thick soups based on meat broth, with a<br />

salty-sour base like rassolnik and solyanka.<br />

Fish soups such as ukha and kal'ya. Grain- and vegetablebased<br />

soups.<br />

Main Dishes Meat<br />

In traditional Russian cuisine three basic variations of meat dishes<br />

can be highlighted: - large boiled piece of meat cooked in a soup<br />

or porridge, and then used as second course or served cold as a<br />

snack:<br />

Studen´ (or Kholodets) - Jellied chopped pieces of pork or veal<br />

meat with some spices added (pepper, parsley, garliñ, bay leaf) and<br />

minor amounts of vegetables (carrots, onions). The meat is boiled<br />

in large pieces for long periods of time, then chopped, boiled a few<br />

times again and finally chilled for 3-4 hours (hence the name)<br />

forming a jelly mass, though gelatine is not used because young<br />

meat contains enough glue substances. It is served with horse<br />

radish, mustard or grinded garlic with smetana.<br />

• Sub-product dishes (liver, caul fat, rennet), baked in pots together<br />

with cereals;<br />

• Whole animal (bird) dishes or it's part (leg), or large piece of meat<br />

(rump) baked on a baking tray in a stove, so called "zharkoye" (from<br />

the word "zhar" meaning "heat")<br />

As a garnish to meat dishes in the past the most<br />

common were porridges and cereals, in which<br />

the meat was boiled, later on boiled or rather<br />

steamed and baked root vegetables (turnips,<br />

carrots) as well as mushrooms; additionally the<br />

meat, without taking account its type, was<br />

garnished with pickled products - pickled<br />

cabbage (sauerkraut), sour and soaked apples<br />

(mochoniye yabloki), soaked cranberries,<br />

"vzvar"s. In modern day conditions baked<br />

vegetables to accompany meat dishes can be<br />

cooked in foil. Succus formed in the meat<br />

roasting as well as melted "smetana" or melted<br />

butter is used as gravy to pour on garnishing<br />

vegetables and porridges. Meat sauces i.e.<br />

gravies on flour, butter, eggs and milk, are not<br />

common for traditional Russian cuisine.<br />

Various minced meat dishes were adopted from<br />

other cuisines and became popular only in the<br />

nineteenth and twentieth centuries; for<br />

traditional Russian cuisine they are not typical.<br />

Kotlety (cutlets, meat cakes), a Western<br />

European dish popular in modern Russian<br />

households, are small pan-fried meatloaves,<br />

not dissimilar from Salisbury steak and other<br />

such dishes. Made primarily from pork and beef<br />

(sometimes also from chicken or fish), they are<br />

easily made and require little time. Milk,<br />

onions, ground beef, and pork are put in a bowl<br />

and whisked thoroughly until it becomes<br />

relatively consistent. Once this effect is<br />

achieved, the hands are usually powdered with<br />

flour to keep the mixture from sticking while<br />

you reach to form them into balls (or any shape<br />

you'd like, really) and then put into a hot frying<br />

pan to cook. When meat was in short supply, a<br />

portion of it could be substituted with bread to<br />

protect the size and flavour of the katlyeti.<br />

Pelmeni are a traditional Eastern European<br />

(mainly Russian) dish usually made with<br />

minced meat filling, wrapped in thin dough<br />

(made out of flour and eggs, sometimes with<br />

milk or water added). For filling, pork, lamb,<br />

beef, or any other kind of meat can be used;<br />

mixing several kinds is popular. Traditional<br />

Ural recipe requires the filling be made with<br />

45% of beef, 35% of lamb, and 20% of pork.<br />

Often various spices, such as pepper, onions,<br />

and garlic, are mixed into the filling. <br />

OPEN TRADE 52<br />

Oct-Dec 2007

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