SPORTIEST

dining
Restaurants
Sébillon
april in Paris may be celebrated in the famous George Gershwin song, but January is a wonderful time to visit the city
for anyone who really loves to eat. Many of the classics of the French kitchen make for delectable winter eating, notably
France’s superb oysters and gigot d’agneau, or roast leg of lamb. if this sounds like your kind of meal, head for sébillon,
a charming long-running well-mannered brasserie that’s a favourite with a business power crowd at noon and wellheeled
locals in the evening. aside from the prompt good-humoured service and reasonable prices, what many
people come here for is the leg of lamb, which is carved from the bone tableside and served with stewed lingots,
or white beans. You’re welcome to ask for a second or, improbably, a third serving, too, but it’s better to build a more
moderate feast by starting with some oysters, they offer bivalves from three of the best producers in France, Pascal
Magné, Gillardeau, and Joël Dupuch. There are also many other choices on the menu, of course, including lobster
stuffed ravioli or duck foie gras to start, and then grilled sole or a filet with sauce Béarnaise. Finish up with the crepes
suzette, flambéed en salle too, and note that this engaging address is open daily for lunch and dinner, with last orders
in the evening at 11pm. – a.L.
20 ave Charles de Gaulle, 92200 Neuilly-sur-Seine, 01 46 24 71 31
Le Relais Plaza
With its elegant 1936 vintage art deco décor and well-heeled worldly clientele
frequently sprinkled with famous faces, this superb table at the Plaza athénée
Hotel on the avenue Montaigne is not only one of the chicest restaurants in Paris,
but with a kitchen under the supervision of alain Ducasse, it also serves some
seriously good Gallic comfort food. Maitre d’hotel Werner Küchler is one of the
savviest and most gallant restaurant czars in Paris, with an ability to compose the
dining room in a perfect social mise-en-scène at every service, and everyone who
works here follows his lead in terms of being exceptionally attentive and gracious.
Young chef Philippe Marc knows what makes the beautiful people happy, too,
including simple dishes like a salad of lamb’s lettuce (mâche, in French) with
artichoke hearts and black truffles and the scallop carpaccio, the sole meunière
with potato mousseline and sautéed spinach, roast chicken and a Viennese style
veal scallop. Desserts are made by Christophe Michalak, one of the great pastry
chefs of Paris, and the one not to miss is the sumptuous La religieuse Caramel au
Beurre salé, a superb caramel confection. Whether it’s for a celebratory lunch, a
special night on the town, or a business meal, this address is always the perfect
choice. – a.L.
21 ave Montaigne (8th), 01 53 67 64 00
Relais plaza photo © Eric Laignel
58 WHERE Paris i JaNUarY 2015