Studio PMC - Rio Grande

Embedding Argentium Silver
By Barbara Becker Simon
In the Spring 2006 issue of Studio PMC, I
wrote an article about firing sterling findings
in PMC. Since then, I have begun
implanting Argentium Sterling Silver, a
tarnish- and firescale-resistant sterling silver,
with good results. The main advantage
of Argentium is that it doesn't oxidize to
black during the firing. It just turns a bit
dull and it is an easy matter to bring it to
the desired finish. I recommend firing it
with PMC3 at 1110˚F (600˚C) for 45 to 60
minutes to prevent brittleness caused by
overheating.
Argentium also offers the possibility of
heat-hardening. After firing, heat the
piece to 580˚F (300˚C) for 45 to 60 minutes,
then allow to air cool. This step dramatically
increases the sterling's hardness,
making Argentium a good choice for findings
and other components that need to be
shaped prior to embedding in PMC.
Two Tricks
By Catherine Davies Paetz
1
Everyone has a little trouble
transferring their carefully cut
circles to a light bulb or other
domed surface to create lentils or
similar items. One day, I just put the clay
on the bulb first, then used the cutter
directly on the clay-covered light bulb
and cut my clean little circle, complete
with edges already pressed into place.
Talk about a light-bulb moment! No
more asymmetrical lentil halves! A perfect
circle every time.
Hadar's homemade PMC Sheet.
Pendant made with homemade
PMC Sheet.
2
I've been experimenting with
another water etching resist -
Delta Ceramcoat® Interior /
Exterior gloss varnish. It's a
water based polyurethane available in
craft stores. It dries more quickly than
wax and does not have the strong odor
of nail polish. Unlike wax, you can dry
this on a hot plate, although it air dries
fairly quickly as well.
The only trouble I've discovered is
that drying the design side face down
after applying the polyurethane can
make the clay a little more difficult to
wash away. I'm not sure why, but it only
seems to happen when the piece is heated
design-side down.
Make Your Own PMC Sheet
By Hadar Jacobson
If you don’t want your PMC Sheet to be
limited in size or texture, you can easily
make your own by mixing glycerin into
either Original PMC or PMC+. The
process is quite simple: roll a full package
to a thin layer, and smear glycerin onto it
with your finger to cover the entire surface.
Roll the PMC into a scroll and roll it
down with a rolling pin under a plastic
bag. The clay will be sticky at first and you
will need to scrape it off the work surface.
Use an extra scraper to scrape clay off the
scrapers. Keep rolling until the clay regains
its original consistency and does not stick
anymore.
To make the sheet, roll the clay two
cards thick, with no texture, over a texture,
or between two textures (to texture both
sides), and let it air dry. Keep whatever you
don’t use immediately in a sealed bag. It
will remain flexible for a long time.
Fall 2007 · 17