How To Rebuild Your Small-Block Ford.pdf - Index of

Small-block Fords have been installed in virtually every type of vehicle going. Here is a custom.
installed '64 289 in a 1954 Jeep.
one coming out of the center of the
distributor cap, or the distributor-toamplifier
lead.
Remove the Hood-If you have an engine
compartment light, disconnect it first.
Before loosening the bolts, mark the hinge
locations relative to the hood. Do this by
tracing around the hinges at the hood
with a scriber, grease pencil or a piece of
chalk. A neat method of guaranteeing
that a hood goes back in exactly the same
position as it was before its hinge bolts
are loosened is to drill an 118-in. hole up
through both hinges and the hood inner
panel-don't go through the hood! To
reinstall the hood, bolt it loosely to the
hinges, insert an ice pick through the
holes in the hinge and hood to align it,
then tighten the bolts. The result-perfect
alignment. This will save you the trouble
of readjusting the hood when it is replaced.
Remove the front hinge bolts and
loosen the back ones while supporting the
hood. A helping hand comes in handyyou
on one side and him on the other.
Remove the back bolts and lift the hood
off. Place it out out of the way where it
won't get damaged. Stand it up in the
garage and wire the latch to a nail driven
in a wall stud. This will keep it from falling
over. Another trick is to put it on the
roof of your car. Protect the paint or
vinyl top by putting something between
the rear corners of the hood and the hood
latch and the roof. I assume your car will
be parked inside out of the wind, otherwise
don't try the hood-on-the-roof trick.
I'll generalize and let your common sense
fill the voids. The vehicle I used as an
example is a 1968 Mustang using a 302
loaded with accessories. About the only
thing it didn't have was an air-injection
Pump.
Before you immobilize your vehicle,
clean your engine and transmission to
remove as much dirt and grease as possible.
The most effective and simplest way of
doing this is with a can of spray degreaser
and some water. If your car is running,
take it to a car wash and just follow the
directions on the can. Or, use their degreasing
spray if one is available. Otherwise,
do it at home with a garden hose.
Take fair warning, what's on your engine
ends up under the car after you're finished,
so act accordingly. After you've finished
your engine it won't look like new, but it
will be a whole lot easier to work on.
Now, with your engine and transmission
clean and everything ready to go,
1'11 explain how to remove the engine
point-by-point :
Fender Protector-Put a fender protector,
or a suitable facsimile over each front
fender to protect the finish. In addition,
they are comfortable to lean on and your
tools won't slide off as easily.
Battery-If you have a standard transmission,
remove the battery and store it
in a safe place. If you have an automatic
transmission, disconnect the ground cable
at the battery, but leave the battery in
because it will be handy later on. Disconnect
the coil-to-distributor lead-the
'It's easier to work with a clean engine. A can of
spray degreaser and your garden hose will
do the job. Cover the carburetor to prevent
filling the engine and carburetor with water.
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