The Metropolitan Museum of Art Bulletin, v. 29, no. 7 (March, 1971)

.
By the twelfth century, the dalmatic had assumed
its standard form as a slightly flared,
shirtlike, one-piece garment with long, loose
sleeves, sometimes not sewn together beneath
the arm (Figure 15). It hangs to the calf with
,,slits part way up the side seams.
15. Dalmatic. Flemish, XV
century. Cut and voided
velvet, embroidery in silk
and metallic threads,
height from shoulder to
hem 46 inches. Rogers
Fund, 18.24.3
16. St. Martial and St.
Fabian. French (Poitiers),
about 1210-1220. Stained
glass, 31 x 157/2 inches.
The Cloisters Collection,
25.120.394
The pall ceased to be a strip of material
metal orlooped around the neck and became by the
eleventh century a horizontal loop worn about
the shoulder with vertical streamers hanging
front and back. It was usually decorated with
crosses but the number varied from two to
as many as eight (Figure 16).
17. Three crosiers. French,
XII, XIII, and XIV
centuries. Left and right,
ivory, heights 6/2 and 53/4
inches; center, champleve
enamel, total height 60 :
inches. Gift of J. Pierpont
Morgan, 17.190.232, 833,
164
Of the processional vestments, the crosier
showed the greatest variation in shape through-
'
out its development (Figure 17). It began as a .,
simple crook in the seventh century and then ~": /
became spiral shaped. As it developed it was
more and more elaborately ornamented with
figures and scenes enclosed in the spiral. Securing
the head of the staff was a knob of
metal or ivory, which also became increasingly
elaborate until, in the fifteenth century, it as- '-
sumed the form of an architectural canopy . I
from the top of which the crook protruded
(see Figure 1).
.-.F,