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September Rivah Visitor's Guide - The Rappahannock Record

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<strong>Rivah</strong> Fare<br />

Review<br />

<strong>The</strong> Sandpiper Restaurant<br />

If You Go<br />

850 <strong>Rappahannock</strong> Drive,<br />

White Stone<br />

435-6176<br />

Open<br />

Serving dinner<br />

Tuesday-Saturday<br />

5 pm until<br />

On the Menu<br />

Seafood, steaks, chicken,<br />

pasta, pork chops, soup,<br />

salad, dessert, full bar<br />

Did you know?<br />

Check out the prices of the<br />

wine by the bottle list. You<br />

can take home what you<br />

don’t finish-it’s a deal/steal!<br />

by Joanna Marcheti<br />

After journeying out<br />

to Heathsville and<br />

Westmoreland for this summer’s<br />

dining reviews, it was<br />

a pleasure to end the streak<br />

just minutes from my home at<br />

White Stone’s beloved Sandpiper<br />

Restaurant owned by<br />

Kelli Sullivan Moss.<br />

Anyone who’s ever driven<br />

by the popular local eatery has<br />

seen patrons lined up at the<br />

door at 5 p.m. sharp, waiting<br />

for their tables, so when my<br />

husband and I ventured out on<br />

a Wednesday, we weren’t at all<br />

surprised to find dinner in full<br />

swing with only a few vacant<br />

tables. We were promptly<br />

shown to one of these tables<br />

and took a moment to observe<br />

the subtle nautical decor of the<br />

interior, as well as the aroma of<br />

our dining neighbors’ entrees<br />

having just arrived.<br />

<strong>The</strong> menu is a seafood and<br />

land lover’s delight, offerings<br />

include salmon, ahi tuna, haddock,<br />

steamed shrimp, as well<br />

as the customer favorite, beer<br />

battered fried shrimp, certified<br />

black angus steaks-handcut in<br />

house, pasta, chicken and pork<br />

chops.<br />

<strong>The</strong> specials board in the<br />

lobby boasted creamy homemade<br />

soups and a ribeye with<br />

blue cheese butter and crispy<br />

onion rings. <strong>The</strong> options were<br />

overwhelming and we didn’t<br />

know where to start. Seafood<br />

versus steak was the big<br />

dilemma, as there were so<br />

many great options in each<br />

department. Recommendations<br />

26 <br />

<br />

from our server proved very<br />

helpful—several members of<br />

the staff have been there for<br />

over 20 years so don’t hesitate<br />

to ask for advice.<br />

We began our meal with the<br />

most amazing sweet red pepper<br />

soup with lump crabmeat. <strong>The</strong><br />

sweet creaminess of the soup<br />

sprinkled with pristine white<br />

lumps of crab had us wishing<br />

we had opted to each get our<br />

own cup. This soup has been a<br />

house specialty for almost 30<br />

years and is offered most evenings.<br />

One of the most memorable<br />

moments of our dining experience<br />

occurred as we were<br />

ordering our entrees. My husband<br />

was engaged in a serious<br />

debate with himself over<br />

whether to order the pork chop<br />

entree or the much talked about<br />

crabcakes. When he asked our<br />

incredible server, a Sandpiper<br />

legend herself—Maxine Carter,<br />

to assist him, she immediately<br />

suggested they do a customized<br />

combination platter for him<br />

which would include one of<br />

each. To say we were impressed<br />

with this accommodating offer<br />

would be a huge understatement.<br />

It came time for me to<br />

make a decision and for the<br />

sake of variety, I went with<br />

the kabobs—a combination of<br />

grilled jumbo shrimp, scallops,<br />

a four-ounce filet mignon and<br />

skewered grilled vegetables.<br />

For side items, I chose mashed<br />

potatoes, my husband ordered<br />

the rice, and both entrees<br />

included a house salad.<br />

After placing our orders, we<br />

each enjoyed a glass of the 14<br />

Hands Cabernet Sauvignon,<br />

chosen off the very reasonably<br />

priced wine list. Kelli says she<br />

takes pride in offering good wine<br />

at a reasonable price. She’ll also<br />

custom order wine if she doesn’t<br />

already carry it so just call.<br />

<strong>The</strong> salads appeared and we<br />

started in on the crisp radicchio<br />

and spring mix loaded<br />

with fresh, local veggies, topped<br />

with a creamy homemade ranch<br />

dressing. Shortly after finishing<br />

the salad course, our entrees<br />

arrived and we each found ourselves<br />

staring down heaping<br />

plates of surf and turf. My husband’s<br />

dish consisted of a beautifully<br />

cooked center cut pork<br />

chop, cut in-house, a good sized<br />

lump crabcake, rice peppered<br />

with shredded carrots and peas,<br />

and a small side of applesauce. I<br />

didn’t waste any time digging in<br />

to my plate of fresh grilled seafood,<br />

steak cooked to a perfect<br />

medium rare, grilled peppers,<br />

onions, tomatoes, and mushroom,<br />

and chunky Yukon gold<br />

mashed potatoes.<br />

Everything was fabulous and<br />

we enjoyed just enough of our<br />

dinners to preserve a tiny bit of<br />

room for dessert. Despite our<br />

planning we were still pretty<br />

stuffed, but this was my last<br />

dining review of the summer<br />

and I’ve tragically passed on<br />

dessert too many times to do it<br />

again. We were tempted by the<br />

huge old fashioned ice cream<br />

sundaes whizzing by on trays<br />

every few minutes available with<br />

fudge, caramel and butterscotch<br />

sauce, but as soon as I saw it<br />

on the specials board, I knew<br />

the bread pudding with vanilla<br />

sauce had to be mine. And the<br />

velvety sauce drizzled over the<br />

sweet, warm bread with hints of<br />

cinnamon and nutmeg did not<br />

disappoint. This is what Kelli<br />

calls “just a good old fashioned<br />

family recipe.”<br />

Kelli took over Sandpiper in<br />

2009 from her mother Carole,<br />

after her passing. Carole opened<br />

the restaurant in 1982 and Kelli<br />

reminisces about how hard her<br />

mother worked to transform the<br />

former barbecue pit and pool hall<br />

into the steak and seafood house<br />

she envisioned. She’s very hesitant<br />

to take credit for the success<br />

of the restaurant, saying it’s all<br />

owed to her mother, from whom<br />

she inherited this legacy. She<br />

says everything she knows, she<br />

attributes to her. She also credits<br />

her staff as another key ingredient<br />

to the restaurant’s success.<br />

Describing them “like a family,”<br />

it’s easy to understand why there<br />

are three or four employees that<br />

have been with the restaurant for<br />

25+ years.<br />

Her food philosophy is “Some<br />

of the best dishes you’ll ever eat<br />

are simple-and that’s what we<br />

do. We’re all about fresh, traditional,<br />

homemade fare.” Later<br />

when talking to Kelli, I learned<br />

that the kabobs, the crabcakes<br />

and the pork chops have all been<br />

on their menu for as long as the<br />

restaurant’s been open. But sorry<br />

folks, no magic ingredient crabcake<br />

tips here—Kelli says that<br />

like most recipes used at the<br />

restaurant, it’s a top secret recipe<br />

from her mom.<br />

Kelli says she “feels so<br />

blessed for this opportunity and<br />

so grateful to the locals as well as<br />

her staff for their continued loyal<br />

support for <strong>The</strong> Sandpiper.”

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