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Magazine “Insight” No.6 (PDF) - Carl F. Bucherer

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new products<br />

“The Manero Collection”<br />

Whereconsummatecraftsmanship<br />

and aesthetics meet.<br />

Back in antiquity, the Greek Xenophon<br />

defined the concept ofcraftsmanship and<br />

the advantages ofspecialization within certain<br />

areas thus: “For example, one craftsman<br />

makes men’sshoes, anothershoes forwomen.<br />

There are also places where one man can<br />

make alivingfromrepairing shoes, onefrom<br />

cutting the leather, another bysewing the<br />

uppers, and yet another who has nothing<br />

to do with any ofthis but simply putting the<br />

separate bits together. But, ofcourse,<br />

it’s logical that aman who works within a<br />

restricted area will do his job best.”<br />

awealth ofspecialists<br />

for asingle cause.<br />

This idea applies perfectly to the skills and<br />

craftsmanship involved in watchmaking.<br />

Numerous specialists, including watchmakers,<br />

engineers and designers, are responsible<br />

for the individual steps in the process<br />

of producing awatch. The watchmaker,<br />

for instance, isboth specialist and artist: the<br />

skilled individual who adjusts the micromechanical<br />

components sothat they fit<br />

together perfectly and then assembles them<br />

all by hand, i.e. “manually”.<br />

Manufacturing: inthe<br />

literal sense of the terM.<br />

The word “manufacture” originally derives<br />

from the Latin manus, hand, and factura,<br />

make. Referring to watch production, the<br />

same word –manufacture –inFrench<br />

describes acompany that designs, develops<br />

and produces its own movements from start<br />

to finish. Originally founded to do precisely<br />

this, amanufacture is often, to this day,<br />

the diametrical opposite ofindustrial mass<br />

production. The production process in a<br />

manufacture is divided into numerous steps<br />

between numerous specialists, just as the<br />

10 –InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6<br />

Greek Xenophon correctly defined it. When<br />

we consider the detailed manual labor involved,<br />

the meaning and significance of the<br />

word becomes clear.<br />

iMpressive…<br />

The consummate, tradition-steeped craftsmanship<br />

found at <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong> goes<br />

all the way back to 1919, the year inwhich<br />

company founder <strong>Carl</strong> Friedrich <strong>Bucherer</strong><br />

launched his first watch collection. Itis<br />

demonstrated toimpressive effect inthe<br />

Manero line from <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong>. “Manero”<br />

itself literally means “that which is<br />

guided by hand”. And, as the models inthe<br />

watch line confirm, the name says it all.<br />

Prime among them is the Manero Chrono-<br />

Perpetual. Its outstanding features include<br />

aperpetual calendar with correction-free<br />

display ofthe date, day of the week, month<br />

and moon phase. The mechanism is able to<br />

recognize the lengths ofthe various months<br />

and knows precisely when the next leap year<br />

is due. In view of its mechanical intricacy,<br />

this technical complication remains amajor<br />

challenge, but one towhich the specialists<br />

at <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong> are equal. Clearly: be-<br />

cause in 2012, the Lucerne-based manufacturer<br />

unveils what isalready the third version<br />

of this model.<br />

…anD branD new.<br />

But the other models inthe Manero family<br />

are noless convincing: the Manero Perpetual,<br />

for instance, has acorrection-free<br />

mechanism that overcomes the vagaries of<br />

the Gregorian calendar and will only require<br />

correction in 2100. Orthe Manero<br />

CentralChrono, which has an eye-catching<br />

new central chronograph display and was<br />

likewise unveiled by <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong> at this<br />

year’s Baselworld. Last, but not least, we<br />

should mention the Manero RetroGrade.<br />

Apart from the hour, minutes and seconds<br />

hands, the designers have cleverly arranged<br />

four additional displays and seven hands<br />

for maximum legibility.<br />

No matter whichmodel in <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong>’s<br />

Manero family you look atmore closely,<br />

they all combine sophisticated mechanics,<br />

aesthetic elegance and precision craftsmanship.<br />

It is good to know this combination<br />

still exists. And even better toknow that it<br />

comes naturally at<strong>Carl</strong> F.<strong>Bucherer</strong>.<br />

Making of: The illustrations of the Manero line were produced with the help ofwell-known Swiss artist<br />

Stephan Schmidlin inhis studio.

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