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Magazine “Insight” No.6 (PDF) - Carl F. Bucherer

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PAtRAvi CALENdAR<br />

N o6<br />

BY CARL F. BUCHERER


iNSight Nº6<br />

3 Editorial bySascha<br />

Moeri, CEO <strong>Bucherer</strong><br />

Montres S.A.<br />

4 Feature Story:<br />

Patravi Calendar.<br />

6 Kurt Allemann –A<br />

portrait of aman of the<br />

first hour.<br />

10<br />

6<br />

10 New productS:<br />

The Manero Collection.<br />

17<br />

14 MarketNewS: Prince<br />

Jewellery &Watch<br />

Company Hong Kong.<br />

17 MarketNewS:<br />

London Jewelers Long<br />

Island, New York.<br />

22 SpoNSorShip:<br />

Fashion and style from<br />

SuitArt.<br />

24 FrieNdS oF the BraNd:<br />

Daniel Bernhardt –<br />

from Worblaufen to<br />

Hollywood.<br />

4<br />

24<br />

26 Impressions<br />

Baselworld 2012.<br />

28 catchiNg up with:<br />

Martin Husi, General<br />

Manager, <strong>Bucherer</strong><br />

St. Moritz.<br />

32 ViewpoiNt:<br />

Nature of the beast –<br />

Watch companies.<br />

14<br />

33 New productS:<br />

Alacria Mini TwoTone.<br />

Impressum<br />

iNSight by <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong><br />

Issue 6<br />

September 2012<br />

Publishedby<br />

<strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong><br />

abrand of <strong>Bucherer</strong> Montres S.A.<br />

Langensandstrasse 27<br />

CH-6002 Lucerne<br />

Tel. +41 41369 70 70<br />

Fax +41 41 369 7072<br />

insight@carl-f-bucherer.com<br />

www.carl-f-bucherer.com<br />

Editor-in-Chief<br />

Sara Gianella<br />

Editorial Team<br />

Sara Gianella<br />

Convensis Group, Stuttgart<br />

ArtDirection<br />

Brenneisen Communications, Basel


editorial<br />

Dear Reader<br />

Men –and, ofcourse, women –ofthe first hour are much in demand.<br />

They impress with astoical equanimity,the product ofyears<br />

of experience, ofwhich others can only dream. Nowadays, men of<br />

this caliber are few and far between. Business today is short-lived<br />

and all too often employees soon move ontodifferent pastures.<br />

Kurt Allemann isone of those men of the first hour. Hehas worked<br />

for the House of <strong>Bucherer</strong> for 35years and since 1998 he has been in<br />

charge of product development for the <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong> brand. His<br />

expertise inthe watch industry and his knowledge ofwatch development<br />

are probably unmatched. Iamdelighted, therefore, that<br />

he has chosen toshare his story with us on pages 6to9ofour latest<br />

issue of“InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong>”.<br />

On pages4and 5weare proud to presentthe PatraviCalendar,<br />

whichwas launched earlierthisyearand giveswearerstotal control<br />

over time throughoutthe entire year. ThePatravi Calendar features<br />

theCFB A1004, a<strong>Carl</strong>F.<strong>Bucherer</strong> functional module basedonour<br />

in-house CFBA1000 caliber. Apart from thebig date andday of the<br />

week displays,itfeaturesapractical calendar week display: all in all,<br />

anothermasterpiece developed andproducedbythe outstandingspecialistsinour<br />

ownworkshopsat<strong>Carl</strong>F.<strong>Bucherer</strong> Technologies.With<br />

ateamlikethembehindus, ouroutstanding performancecomes as<br />

no surprise:in2011, we recorded thebestresultsince thecompany’s<br />

foundation.<br />

Our350 points of sale in 25 countries clearlyplayamajor role in the<br />

achievementofresults like theseand we presenttwo of ourretailers<br />

in this issue. On theone hand,LondonJewelersinLongIsland, NY,<br />

whosefamily-ownedbusinesswithfivestoresisnow in thefourth<br />

generation.And on theother,the Prince Jewellery &WatchCompany<br />

in Hong Kong,one of themost successfuland best-known watchand<br />

jewelry dealersinthe metropolis,which took <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong> into its<br />

range in 2001. Workingwithpartnerslikethese fillsmewithpride.<br />

It’s thekindofstory youhearall thetime: theone aboutthe Swiss<br />

guywho tries hisluckinHollywood.Unlike most of thosestories,<br />

whichtendtoend back in Switzerland, Daniel BernhardtfromBern<br />

hasmadeitbig time.Asanactor much in demand in action and<br />

martialartsmovies, as afearless stuntman,and as apassionatephotographer.<br />

Despite hismanyyears in theUS, he hasalwaysmaintained<br />

hislinks with Switzerland. With hisfamily, butalsowith<strong>Carl</strong><br />

F. <strong>Bucherer</strong>.Thankstohis commitment as aFriendofthe Brand, he<br />

candependonperfect time management in Hollywood.Readmore<br />

abouthim on pages24and 25.<br />

Passion andperfection:those were thetwo characteristicsunderlying<br />

therefurbishment of the<strong>Bucherer</strong> storeinSt. Moritz in 2011.On<br />

pages28to31, thestore’s generalmanager Martin Husi explains<br />

what thenew shop design meansfor <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong> andSt. Moritz,<br />

lets us in on thekindofclients whovisit thestore,and givesushis<br />

tips forthe hotspots youcan’t afford to miss in St.Moritz.<br />

Iwishyou relaxing andinspiring reading!<br />

Best regards,<br />

SaschaMoeri<br />

CEO <strong>Bucherer</strong> Montres S.A.<br />

InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6 –3


Fe Feat atur ure st stor ory<br />

Pa Patra travi vi Ca Cale lend ndar ar<br />

Stylishlytakingthe weeks<br />

in itsstride.<br />

“Time iswhat aclock measures,” Albert<br />

Einstein once said. In order tomeasure<br />

time, wehave todivide itinto individual<br />

intervals. Today, we think ofitinterms of<br />

seconds, minutes, hours, days or months.<br />

However, it all becomes more problematic<br />

when we introducethe numbersofthe<br />

calendar weeks. Ayear, of course, comprises<br />

twelve months, but the number ofweeks<br />

varies. Some years we have 52 weeks, others<br />

53. The attempt tocreate asystematic<br />

calendar for the weeks inthe year dates back<br />

historically tothe development of the Gregorian<br />

calendar, which divided the year<br />

into 52 complete weeks, or 364 days. The<br />

remaining two or three days are then integrated<br />

either in an additional 53rd week<br />

4–InsIght by Ca <strong>Carl</strong> rl F. bu buCh Cher erer er Nº6<br />

or into the first week of the new year. As a<br />

result,every five or sixyears we have an extra<br />

week in the calendar. In a400-year cycle,<br />

we thus have 71 years with “leap weeks”, as<br />

they are known, and 97 leap years –those<br />

with 29 days in February.<br />

Different countries,<br />

Different waysofcounting.<br />

In the course ofhistory, different parts of<br />

the world have evolved different ways of<br />

counting the weeks in the year. In the US,<br />

for instance, the first calendar week ofthe<br />

year always starts onJanuary 1, regardless<br />

of what day ithappens to be. Itcan therefore<br />

be anything from one toseven days in<br />

length. Asaresult, there can bebetween<br />

52 and 54calendar weeks per year, of which<br />

at least one is an incomplete week. On<br />

top ofthis, the first day ofthe week in the<br />

US is always Sunday.


In the German-speaking part of the world,<br />

the calendar isbased on an international<br />

standard which states that the first calendar<br />

week of the year must have atleast four<br />

days. Inaddition, acalendar week always<br />

starts on Monday. However, the first orlast<br />

week of the calendar may overlap with the<br />

previous year orthe following one. This explains<br />

why the 29th, 30th and 31st ofDecember<br />

may becounted as part of the first<br />

week of the following year. Onthe other<br />

hand, itisalso possible for the 1st, 2nd and<br />

3rd ofJanuary to be counted with the last<br />

calendar week of the previous year. The advantage<br />

ofthis system isthat every year has<br />

either 52 or 53 complete,i.e.seven-day,weeks.<br />

aweekly calenDar<br />

for the wrist.<br />

The calendar week system isused internationallytomakethe<br />

yearmoremanageable,<br />

which isthe reason why this practical function<br />

has been integrated into anew model<br />

from <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong>.The PatraviCalendar,<br />

which ishoused in an eye-catching classical<br />

round case, isnot less timeless in terms of<br />

its functionality. To facilitate this, ithas a<br />

day ofthe week and big date display, as well<br />

as aweek ofthe year display. Just asits<br />

name suggests. The week of the year display<br />

is arranged inacircle around the dial inside<br />

the chapter ring. Asmall hand indicates the<br />

calendar week, regardless of the number of<br />

weeks inthe year. For the fascinating<br />

mechanism at the heart of the watch, the<br />

CFB A1004, made entirely in-house by<br />

<strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong>, isnot only able to show 52<br />

calendar weeks but also a53rd, whicheliminatesthe<br />

need for turning back the week<br />

display inthe relevant years. And because<br />

there are different ways of counting the<br />

weeks, the watch isavailable in twodifferent<br />

versions.<br />

is thereamore<br />

stylishway<br />

…<br />

…<br />

of displaying<br />

thecalendarweeks?<br />

The fact that the week calendar function can<br />

be integrated so easily into the caliber can<br />

be explained bythe in-house manufacturing<br />

concept adopted by <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong>. Like<br />

its predecessors, the CFB A1001, CFB<br />

A1002 and CFB A1003, the CFB A1004 is<br />

afurther development of the first movement<br />

manufactured in-house, the CFB A1000.<br />

This is clearly recognizable from the peripheral<br />

rotor, its patented dynamic shock-absorption<br />

(DSA) system and intelligent central<br />

dual adjusting system (CDAS). During<br />

the development of the CFB A1000, <strong>Carl</strong><br />

F. <strong>Bucherer</strong>’s design engineers went togreat<br />

lengths toensure that other functional modules,<br />

such as the week ofthe year display,<br />

could beintegrated readily into the movement.<br />

With this sophisticated function, which also<br />

takes the leap years into account, the Patravi<br />

Calendar is effectively a“timeless timekeeper”.<br />

Thanks to its classic elegance, this<br />

particular property is also optically under<br />

scored. The case, which is available instainless<br />

steel or18krose gold and is 42.6 mm in<br />

diameter, was specifically designed for individuals<br />

who prefer acircular case. The black<br />

or silver-colored dial is clearly arranged and<br />

hasthe appealingsimplicityofasportswatch.<br />

The big date is positioned at 11 o’clock, an<br />

unmistakable sign for <strong>Carl</strong> F.<strong>Bucherer</strong>.<br />

Anotherstriking featureisthe small seconds,<br />

which takes the form ofarotating disc in<br />

the dial. This does not protrude into the<br />

space occupied bythe week of the year display,<br />

thus guaranteeing optimum legibility.<br />

The harmonious picture is rounded off bya<br />

calfskin strap inblack or brown, or arobust<br />

stainless steel bracelet. All in all, anelegant,<br />

sporty-looking watch that expertly handles<br />

the passage of time –both functionally and<br />

optically –and does all credit to Albert<br />

Einstein’sdefinition of thefourthdimension.<br />

InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6 –5


po port rtra rait it<br />

Aman<br />

of th the firs rst ho hour.<br />

6–InsIght by Ca <strong>Carl</strong> rl F. bu buCh Cher erer er Nº6


“i don’twakeupfromadream<br />

at four in themorning<br />

becausei’vejusthad avision<br />

of aperfect,finishedwatch.”<br />

Kurt Allemann<br />

He can’t remember his first day at work, but<br />

he still has vivid memories ofthe interview.<br />

He was just 21. It was agray November day<br />

back in 1976 when he got onthe bus toride<br />

out to<strong>Bucherer</strong>’s head offices onthe perimeter<br />

of Lucerne’s town center. Thick fog lay<br />

all around andthe firstthing that confronted<br />

him inLucerne –despite the murk –was<br />

the unprepossessing sight of the freight yard.<br />

No. Itwas definitely not acase oflove at<br />

first sight for Kurt Allemann and Lucerne.<br />

Today, he can nolonger imagine life without<br />

Lucerne. He lives outside of town on the<br />

lake, where there is no need for him to look<br />

at the freight yard and, generally speaking,<br />

no fog. For 35years now, he has been based<br />

at <strong>Bucherer</strong> Group headquarters, and noone<br />

can imagine the business without Kurt Allemann.<br />

Because Kurt Allemann has been<br />

part of countless developments that have<br />

taken place within the company and equally<br />

many upheavals in the watch industry.<br />

One ofthe most decisive periods in<strong>Bucherer</strong>’s<br />

history was when it repositioned its own<br />

watches. The House of <strong>Bucherer</strong> had been<br />

manufacturing and distributing timepieces<br />

in its own name since 1919, striving always<br />

to live up to the most exacting standards<br />

in the traditional craft of watchmaking and<br />

jewelry-making. As afitting tribute to the<br />

company’s founder, <strong>Carl</strong> Friedrich <strong>Bucherer</strong>,<br />

and ameans of lending more weight toits<br />

expertise asamanufacturer, the company<br />

has produced and distributed its watches<br />

under the <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong> brand name since<br />

2001.<br />

“Insight by <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong>” caught upwith<br />

Kurt Allemann totake acloser look athis<br />

work, his motivation and his professional<br />

experience.<br />

Tell us:how didyou graduate from being<br />

awatchmakertoaproduct development<br />

specialist?<br />

allemann: Ijoined <strong>Bucherer</strong> as awatchmaker<br />

in1977 and worked in this capacity<br />

at all <strong>Bucherer</strong>’s stores in Switzerland. After<br />

six years, Itook over ashead ofquality control.<br />

Incoming brand name watches were<br />

unfailingly subject toanexhausting quality<br />

check. Back in those days, even the wellknown<br />

brands had nothing like the same<br />

high standards wehave now. Insome cases,<br />

we even had toreturn watches tothe manufacturer.<br />

After three years, Imoved to<br />

<strong>Bucherer</strong>’s purchasing department. Later,<br />

Iwas put incharge of product development<br />

for the gold watch department at<strong>Bucherer</strong>,<br />

at atime when wewere producing around<br />

20,000 pieces ayear. In 1997, Iwas first<br />

introduced to the <strong>Carl</strong> F.<strong>Bucherer</strong> project,<br />

which fascinated meright from the start.<br />

In 2001, Iwas involved in the repositioning<br />

of <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong> and since then I’ve been<br />

responsible for the brand’s product development.<br />

Hmm, now as Iamthinking about it,<br />

I’ve had afair number ofjobs with <strong>Bucherer</strong>.<br />

What wassoexcitingabout product<br />

developmentwith<strong>Carl</strong>F.<strong>Bucherer</strong>?<br />

Getting the chance to help build aninternational<br />

platform for awatch brand at this<br />

level issomething that only happens toyou<br />

once in alifetime, and Iwasn’t prepared<br />

to miss it. For me, working with specialists<br />

on building up the brand image of<strong>Carl</strong> F.<br />

<strong>Bucherer</strong> was very instructive. It developed<br />

out of<strong>Bucherer</strong> but had to establish its own<br />

unique identity.Back then wethought we<br />

were doingeverythingright buthad constant<br />

setbacks that showed us otherwise. It was a<br />

challenging process that was plagued by<br />

doubt. But in retrospect, you have tosay: it<br />

was afantastic thing todo.<br />

Whywas <strong>Bucherer</strong> watchesturnedinto<br />

the<strong>Carl</strong>F.<strong>Bucherer</strong>brand?<br />

<strong>Carl</strong> Friedrich <strong>Bucherer</strong> founded his company<br />

in 1888, and launched his first ladies’<br />

watch collection in 1919. Back then that<br />

was revolutionary, because he was one ofthe<br />

first tobet on the success of the wristwatch.<br />

However, the watches were only sold<br />

through <strong>Bucherer</strong> stores in Switzerland.<br />

Ifound this agreat pity because Iwas convinced<br />

from the start that the products<br />

would bewell received on markets worldwide.<br />

Atthat time, we’d already reached the<br />

same world-class level as other brands operating<br />

onglobal markets. Needless to say,<br />

Iwas over the moon in2001 when <strong>Bucherer</strong><br />

watches under the <strong>Carl</strong> F.<strong>Bucherer</strong> brand<br />

were repositioned and finally distributed<br />

globally. And I’ve lost none of that enthusiasm<br />

tothis day.<br />

Howcreative is theworkofaproduct<br />

developer?<br />

Creativity is certainly animportant part of<br />

it but you can’t always live itout to the full.<br />

Youdevelop aproduct for the good of the<br />

brand, not for yourself! Atthe start ofa<br />

development project wegive ourselves alot<br />

of room for creativity, because that’s when<br />

you’re likely to have the slightly crazy ideas.<br />

Then you start defining itmore clearly, soit<br />

complies with the brand image. Ultimately,<br />

awatch inthis price segment needs acertain<br />

appeal, soyou can’t take ontoo much<br />

risk. But it’s afact that weonly develop<br />

watches we’d buy ourselves.<br />

InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6 –7


portrait<br />

What arethe qualitiesyou need<br />

to developwatches?<br />

The most important, Ithink, are patience<br />

and persistence. Asthe word “development”<br />

suggests, it’s along, drawn-out process.<br />

Idon’t wake up from adream at four in the<br />

morning because I’ve just had avision of<br />

aperfect, finished watch. On the contrary:<br />

you have toquestion every single step.<br />

Ihave the sketches and designs lying next<br />

to me and constantly goback tothem.<br />

Awatch isonly finished when –and if –it<br />

finally goes onsale. This process may well<br />

last several months.<br />

Is it possible to generalize about good<br />

watchdesign?<br />

No. That depends entirely on the brand<br />

and its image. It’s probably easier to say<br />

what bad design is. The customer tells you<br />

8–InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6<br />

indirectly because he doesn’t buy the watch.<br />

On the other hand, it’s difficult to say generally<br />

what bad design looks like. Customers<br />

are rarely able tosay what it is they don’t<br />

like about awatch, but they can say that the<br />

watch asawhole doesn’t appeal tothem.<br />

Movementordesign: whichcomes first<br />

in theproductionofawatch?<br />

The first priority is always functionality:<br />

in other words, the movement. Youhave to<br />

understand what’s going oninside the watch<br />

before you approach the design. This makes<br />

you aware of the requirements and the<br />

limitations. Amovement will need aspecific<br />

height, and there’s no getting round that.<br />

What wasitlikeinawatchmaking workshop<br />

30 or 40 yearsago?Whatwas the<br />

atmosphere like?<br />

“thatwas themovement<br />

whichconvinced me our<br />

watchesweregoodenough<br />

to take on theworld.”<br />

Kurt Allemann<br />

Back then, weused to work with alot of<br />

external suppliers. We played the role of<br />

retailer, and offered amuch wider selection,<br />

ranging inprice from 200 to40,000 Swiss<br />

francs. From very basic watches toreally<br />

high-end jewelry watches. We were flexible<br />

and much more focused on sales than onthe<br />

brand structure. Wehad acertain customer<br />

or customer group inmind for every single<br />

timepiece, which meant we were able to<br />

meet any need or request. Our watches went<br />

on sale directly from product development.<br />

Four weeks later Ihad the first batch of<br />

sales figures and after six months Iknew<br />

whether we’d landed ahit or were facing<br />

aflop. This allowed us to act quickly and<br />

modify the potential duds.<br />

Butit’struethat<strong>Bucherer</strong>’stechnical<br />

achievements weren’t recognized formany<br />

years, were they?Takethe movement in<br />

theArchimedesPerpetual,for example.<br />

That was the movement which convinced<br />

me our watches were good enough to take<br />

on the world. We developed it in the late<br />

80s and it was on apar with the movements<br />

being produced bythe other well-known<br />

watchbrands. Unfortunately, <strong>Bucherer</strong> wasn’t<br />

exporting atthat time and there were no<br />

plans todosointhe near future, sowesold<br />

the movement and all the rights toanother<br />

brand. Istill regret that to this day.<br />

Howdid therepositioning of the<strong>Carl</strong>F.<br />

<strong>Bucherer</strong> brandin2001affectwatch<br />

production?<br />

For the <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong> brand weonly took<br />

the very best ofwhat wehad to offer in<br />

terms ofquality,functionality and design.<br />

Since our repositioning, we’ve attached<br />

more importance toautonomy. The design<br />

and form ofour product range are unique<br />

and very compelling.


What canyou tell us about theshape<br />

andformofyourwatches before andafter<br />

2001?<br />

Before repositioning the brand, we were<br />

more likely tofollow trends inthe watch<br />

industry.Wedoless of that today. Of course,<br />

we’llgoalong with something that’s generating<br />

apositive reaction from customers.<br />

But we’ve found our own distinctive style.<br />

Simply following atrend for the sake of it<br />

isn’t worthy ofour brand.<br />

Is thereasinglecharacteristic<br />

common to allthe watchfamilies from<br />

<strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong>?<br />

Yes, there is. Weuse different surfaces for<br />

all our lines, and combine highly polished<br />

and satin finishes. It’s very labor-intensive<br />

but itcreates an unbelievably beautiful<br />

interplay oftextures. As aresult, our watch<br />

families are very multifaceted. And, of<br />

course,inall four families youfeelthe quality<br />

andvalue associatedwith<strong>Carl</strong>F.<strong>Bucherer</strong>.<br />

Canyou tell us about onetypical feature<br />

that canbefound in the<strong>Carl</strong>F.<strong>Bucherer</strong><br />

brand?<br />

The mechanism that displays the big date<br />

in the Patravi line was developed in-house<br />

by <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong>. Let’s be honest: from<br />

acertain age, many customers are happy if<br />

the date shown on their watch dial isbig and<br />

easy to read. Apart from that, though, we<br />

wanted to create abig date whose position<br />

and design would be instantly recognizable.<br />

The mechanism in this particular form is<br />

not tobefound with any other brand.<br />

In the Alacria, onthe other hand, we have<br />

the flowing contours on the sides found<br />

in all three sizes: the Alacria Mini, Alacria<br />

and Alacria Diva. The form is highly unusual<br />

and very difficult tocopy. Of course,<br />

some people have tried, but the results are<br />

simply poor imitations.<br />

Is everything andanythingallowed<br />

in productdevelopment provided that<br />

it doesn’tdetract from thewatch’s<br />

functionality?<br />

We always start with the specifications.<br />

We establish whether we’re going to create a<br />

ladies’ oramen’s watch, and then decide on<br />

the functions, the materials and the appearance.<br />

This isfollowed bythe drawings and<br />

plans for the case, dial, hands and movement.<br />

Then weget down tothe technology.<br />

Along the way wemake modifications and<br />

occasionally have togoback astep. There<br />

are things wemay have found pleasing<br />

at one point but which for some reason no<br />

longer fit in with the overall picture.<br />

What makes a<strong>Carl</strong>F.<strong>Bucherer</strong>different<br />

from otherwatches?<br />

Attention to detail: and that, these days, is<br />

no longer agiven. Wegointo somuch detail<br />

and accept absolutely no compromises,<br />

certainly not for economic reasons!<br />

Wheredoyou see thewatch industry<br />

in 20 years?<br />

Forbrandsinthe top-pricebracket,not much<br />

is likely to change. Even 20 years from<br />

now, people will still appreciate traditional,<br />

high-precision Swiss craftsmanship.<br />

Howdoyou see the<strong>Carl</strong>F.<strong>Bucherer</strong><br />

brandin20or30years?<br />

Iknow exactly what our watches will look<br />

like 20 or 30 years from now, even if Iwill<br />

no longer bewith <strong>Carl</strong> F.<strong>Bucherer</strong>. The<br />

brand will continue togoits own way and<br />

even in the future will not bow togeneral<br />

trends or constraints. The mix of highquality<br />

traditional craftsmanship and jewelry-making<br />

will remain atthe center of all<br />

we do.<br />

Howhaveyou left your mark on the<br />

<strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong> brandinparticularand<br />

thewatch industry as awhole?<br />

I’ve left no mark on the watch industry.<br />

But Ihope that mywork has helped toput a<br />

hallmark on the <strong>Carl</strong> F.<strong>Bucherer</strong> brand.<br />

It was always mywish that the timepieces<br />

we make wouldembodyand radiatethe values<br />

of the family and the House of <strong>Bucherer</strong>. I<br />

believe we’ve achieved that. But whether it’s<br />

had alasting effect is something we’ll only<br />

know afew years from now.<br />

What hasimpressed youmost about the<br />

House of <strong>Bucherer</strong> in thepast35years?<br />

Aconscious awareness of tradition: it’s<br />

something we’ve cultivated for aslong as<br />

anyone can remember. I’ve also been impressed<br />

by our cultural and social values,<br />

which you can really feel. Decency and<br />

respect for others are central at all levels of<br />

the hierarchy. These values also manifest<br />

themselves in and with the <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong><br />

team, and are the virtues ultimately reflected<br />

in our products. It gives our work its beauty<br />

and value, and that makes me, personally,<br />

very proud.<br />

InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6 –9


new products<br />

“The Manero Collection”<br />

Whereconsummatecraftsmanship<br />

and aesthetics meet.<br />

Back in antiquity, the Greek Xenophon<br />

defined the concept ofcraftsmanship and<br />

the advantages ofspecialization within certain<br />

areas thus: “For example, one craftsman<br />

makes men’sshoes, anothershoes forwomen.<br />

There are also places where one man can<br />

make alivingfromrepairing shoes, onefrom<br />

cutting the leather, another bysewing the<br />

uppers, and yet another who has nothing<br />

to do with any ofthis but simply putting the<br />

separate bits together. But, ofcourse,<br />

it’s logical that aman who works within a<br />

restricted area will do his job best.”<br />

awealth ofspecialists<br />

for asingle cause.<br />

This idea applies perfectly to the skills and<br />

craftsmanship involved in watchmaking.<br />

Numerous specialists, including watchmakers,<br />

engineers and designers, are responsible<br />

for the individual steps in the process<br />

of producing awatch. The watchmaker,<br />

for instance, isboth specialist and artist: the<br />

skilled individual who adjusts the micromechanical<br />

components sothat they fit<br />

together perfectly and then assembles them<br />

all by hand, i.e. “manually”.<br />

Manufacturing: inthe<br />

literal sense of the terM.<br />

The word “manufacture” originally derives<br />

from the Latin manus, hand, and factura,<br />

make. Referring to watch production, the<br />

same word –manufacture –inFrench<br />

describes acompany that designs, develops<br />

and produces its own movements from start<br />

to finish. Originally founded to do precisely<br />

this, amanufacture is often, to this day,<br />

the diametrical opposite ofindustrial mass<br />

production. The production process in a<br />

manufacture is divided into numerous steps<br />

between numerous specialists, just as the<br />

10 –InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6<br />

Greek Xenophon correctly defined it. When<br />

we consider the detailed manual labor involved,<br />

the meaning and significance of the<br />

word becomes clear.<br />

iMpressive…<br />

The consummate, tradition-steeped craftsmanship<br />

found at <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong> goes<br />

all the way back to 1919, the year inwhich<br />

company founder <strong>Carl</strong> Friedrich <strong>Bucherer</strong><br />

launched his first watch collection. Itis<br />

demonstrated toimpressive effect inthe<br />

Manero line from <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong>. “Manero”<br />

itself literally means “that which is<br />

guided by hand”. And, as the models inthe<br />

watch line confirm, the name says it all.<br />

Prime among them is the Manero Chrono-<br />

Perpetual. Its outstanding features include<br />

aperpetual calendar with correction-free<br />

display ofthe date, day of the week, month<br />

and moon phase. The mechanism is able to<br />

recognize the lengths ofthe various months<br />

and knows precisely when the next leap year<br />

is due. In view of its mechanical intricacy,<br />

this technical complication remains amajor<br />

challenge, but one towhich the specialists<br />

at <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong> are equal. Clearly: be-<br />

cause in 2012, the Lucerne-based manufacturer<br />

unveils what isalready the third version<br />

of this model.<br />

…anD branD new.<br />

But the other models inthe Manero family<br />

are noless convincing: the Manero Perpetual,<br />

for instance, has acorrection-free<br />

mechanism that overcomes the vagaries of<br />

the Gregorian calendar and will only require<br />

correction in 2100. Orthe Manero<br />

CentralChrono, which has an eye-catching<br />

new central chronograph display and was<br />

likewise unveiled by <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong> at this<br />

year’s Baselworld. Last, but not least, we<br />

should mention the Manero RetroGrade.<br />

Apart from the hour, minutes and seconds<br />

hands, the designers have cleverly arranged<br />

four additional displays and seven hands<br />

for maximum legibility.<br />

No matter whichmodel in <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong>’s<br />

Manero family you look atmore closely,<br />

they all combine sophisticated mechanics,<br />

aesthetic elegance and precision craftsmanship.<br />

It is good to know this combination<br />

still exists. And even better toknow that it<br />

comes naturally at<strong>Carl</strong> F.<strong>Bucherer</strong>.<br />

Making of: The illustrations of the Manero line were produced with the help ofwell-known Swiss artist<br />

Stephan Schmidlin inhis studio.


InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6 –11


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ma mark rket et ne news ws<br />

Prince Jewellery&Watch Company.<br />

Hong Kongand the<br />

pulseofthe times.<br />

14 –InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6


It is acity offascinating opposites: situated<br />

on the southern coast of the People’s Republic<br />

ofChina, Hong Kong isone of the<br />

world’smost exciting and dynamic destinations.<br />

The special administrative region,<br />

whose name translates as“Fragrant Harbor”,<br />

is one ofthe most densely populated areas<br />

on earth, embracing the city districts of<br />

Hong Kong Island, Kowloon, the New<br />

Territories and 262 offshore islands. With<br />

over seven million inhabitants, the Asian<br />

metropolis succeedsincreatingaharmonious<br />

symbiosisbetween itstraditional cultural<br />

heritage and the pulsating pace ofmodern<br />

life. For it is here that western business and<br />

financial models meet head-on with traditional<br />

oriental culture, against abackdrop<br />

of towering skyscrapers, simple bamboo<br />

huts, breathtaking mountain peaks, an impressive<br />

harbor, panoramic beaches and picturesque<br />

little fishing villages. Experience<br />

Hong Kong once, particularly atnight, and<br />

you will always return. It is an international<br />

metropolis that offers tourists and inhabitants<br />

everything in the tiniest possible space:<br />

arts and culture, bars and restaurants,<br />

shopping, nature, sights and anever-ending<br />

nightlife.<br />

aDDress for watch lovers.<br />

Since 1984, in acity brimful with contrast,<br />

Jimmy Tang has worked tirelessly to establish<br />

the Prince Jewellery &Watch Company<br />

as one ofthe leading addresses for topquality<br />

watches and jewelry in Hong Kong.<br />

Atotal of 11 shops offering 60internationally<br />

renowned watch brands together with a<br />

wide choice of elegant jewelry attract Hong<br />

Kong’s own resident watch and jewelry<br />

lovers together with tourists from every corner<br />

ofthe globe. It is the company’s international<br />

clientele combined with its many<br />

years of experience in the business offirstclass<br />

mechanical watches that makes Prince<br />

such akey partner.<br />

InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6–15


©Maxim Blinkov /Shutterstock.com<br />

marketnews<br />

Mr. Joseph Chu, executive Director ofPrince Jewellery &Watch Company (left), and Mr. Jimmy Tang, Chairman and<br />

CeO of Prince Jewellery &Watch Company.<br />

prince Jewellery &watch<br />

company<br />

• ShopsB&C,GroundFloor,No. 58<br />

•Russell Street, Causeway Bay<br />

•Tel. +852 2776 0688<br />

•Shop 2, Ground Floor,<br />

Prestige Tower<br />

•23–25 Nathan Road, Tsimshatsui,<br />

Kowloon<br />

•Tel. +852 2739 2333<br />

the peak<br />

Hong Kong’s biggest sightseeing<br />

attraction. The spectacular view of<br />

the skyline, the world-famous<br />

harbor and the peninsula isoverwhelming.<br />

The trip tothe top on<br />

the legendary Peak Tram isunforgettable:<br />

climbing 373 meters, the<br />

road is so steep that the houses<br />

passing byoutside appear to be<br />

standing at an angle of45°.<br />

16 –InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6<br />

Insidertipsfor Hong Kong<br />

ifc mall<br />

With its luxury stores and wide<br />

range ofleisure-time activities, the<br />

shopping center isone of the big<br />

favorites with tourists onHong<br />

Kong Island. Atthe same time it is<br />

home to Hong Kong’s most luxurious<br />

hotel, the Four Seasons Hotel<br />

and Four Seasons Place.<br />

•8 Finance Street, Central<br />

•Tel. +852 2295 3308<br />

•www.ifc.com.hk<br />

aberdeen harbour<br />

Contrasts galore: Alongside the<br />

luxury yachts and the state-of-theart<br />

buildings, fishermen eke out a<br />

living with their traditional craft. In<br />

the evening, amirror-like surface<br />

on the sea creates amagical atmosphere.<br />

In Aberdeen Harbour is<br />

the biggest floating restaurant, the<br />

Jumbo, whose rather grand façade<br />

and dilapidated rear side deliciously<br />

underscore the city’s contrasts.<br />

times square hong kong<br />

Located onpulsating Causeway<br />

Bay, Times Square is one ofHong<br />

Kong’s most popular tourist attractions.<br />

With its countless boutiques<br />

and restaurants, the upscale mall<br />

attracts around 150,000 visitors<br />

daily.<br />

• 1Matheson Street,CausewayBay<br />

• Tel. +852 2118 8900<br />

•www.timessquare.com.hk<br />

harbour city<br />

With over 700 shops, around 50<br />

restaurants, bars and cafés, three<br />

star hotels and two cinemas, a<br />

major tourist attraction in Tsim Sha<br />

Tsui. Highlight: the integrated<br />

Gallery bythe Harbour, aunique<br />

feature for ashopping mall in<br />

Hong Kong.<br />

•3–27 Canton Road, Tsim Sha Tsui,<br />

Kowloon<br />

•Tel. +852 2118 8666<br />

•www.harbourcity.com.hk<br />

Many international brands not only appreciate<br />

the dealers asaninvaluable channel for<br />

boosting international awareness of their<br />

products but also asaway of opening upthe<br />

Chinese market.<br />

partnership with<br />

along-terM perspective.<br />

The Prince Jewellery &Watch Company<br />

is not only one of Hong Kong’s most prominent<br />

watch and jewelry retailers but also,<br />

in the light of the growth achieved in recent<br />

years, one of the city’s best known and most<br />

successful. The secret is its belief inidentifying<br />

smaller, particularly new, brands and<br />

then sparing noeffort toestablish them<br />

on the market. With this in mind, Prince<br />

took the Swiss watch manufacturing brand<br />

<strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong> into its portfolio in 2001.<br />

Astep that gave the company avery special<br />

significance as acommercial partner of<br />

<strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong>. The enormous trust<br />

shown byPrince Jewellery &Watch Company<br />

in the brand’s potential has resulted in<br />

extremely pleasing growth in the Chinese<br />

market that has remained undiminished to<br />

this day. And the fact that <strong>Carl</strong> F.<strong>Bucherer</strong>,<br />

acompany that seamlessly combines tradition<br />

with an unwavering quest for perfection,<br />

harmonizes ideally with Hong Kong is<br />

without question.<br />

sky100 hong kong<br />

observation Deck<br />

On the 100th floor of Hong Kong’s<br />

highest building, the International<br />

Commerce Centre (ICC), Sky100<br />

Hong Kong Observation Deck is<br />

the city’s highest indoor viewpoint<br />

and offers amind-blowing 360°<br />

bird’s-eye view of world-famous<br />

Victoria Harbour.<br />

• www.sky100.com.hk<br />

sha tin racecourse<br />

Opened in1978, the racecourse<br />

has capacity for 83,000 spectators<br />

and guarantees nerve-tingling<br />

speed, action and drama.<br />

avenue of stars<br />

Situated in Victoria Harbour, the<br />

Avenue of Stars recounts the 100year<br />

history ofHong Kong’s film<br />

industry and pays tribute to its<br />

heroesofthe silverscreen, primarily<br />

Bruce Lee. Fantastic view of the<br />

skyline.


marketnews<br />

Four generations<br />

of excellence.<br />

welcoMe to<br />

long islanD, new york.<br />

Long Island is located inthe southeastern<br />

part of New York, just east ofManhattan.<br />

It stretches northeast into the Atlantic<br />

Ocean, and is 125 miles long but only 23<br />

miles wide from its north shore toits south.<br />

The island covers anarea of1,377 square<br />

miles, and has apopulation of7.5 million,<br />

making it the largest and most populous<br />

island in the USand the 17th most populous<br />

island in the world. Whether your preference<br />

isfor abarefoot walk along the sandy<br />

white beaches, an adventurous excursion to<br />

afamous lighthouse, arelaxing afternoon<br />

tasting the finest vintages at alocal vineyard<br />

or atour ofthe stately rooms and gardens<br />

of the Gold Coast mansions, Long Island<br />

has itall.<br />

The Long Island economy is extremely<br />

prosperous. The Island boasts the largest<br />

industrial park in the US, the Hauppauge<br />

Industrial Park, where 1,300 companies<br />

employ more than 55,000 people. Long<br />

Island’s economy is made up of over 90,000<br />

businesses and appears to have escaped the<br />

worst ofthe downturn that has affected<br />

many other areas in the USinrecent years.<br />

The Island also has one ofthe lowest unemployment<br />

rates inthe nation, with avast<br />

number of employment opportunities inthe<br />

fields of electronics, biotechnology, medical<br />

andhealthcaresystems,computertechnology<br />

and gastronomy. But there are other reasons<br />

for its economic success: local residents are<br />

continuing to spend, home prices are rising<br />

at double-digit rates and Long Island’s<br />

office market is holding upextremely well.<br />

In addition to all this, Long Island’sproximity<br />

toNew York City makes it one of<br />

the most affluent areas in the country.The<br />

Island is home tosome ofthe country’s most<br />

luxurious mansions, with many wealthy<br />

residents making the popular resorts on<br />

Long Island their playground. Itexudes<br />

prosperity and has some of the highest real<br />

estate and property taxes inthe country.<br />

One example ofthis isthe fact that residents<br />

spend 50million dollars annually onflowers<br />

and landscape gardening.<br />

Some of the world’smost famous celebrities<br />

have called this exclusive island home atone<br />

time or another. They include Oscar winner<br />

NataliePortman,fashion icon DonnaKaran,<br />

luxury fashion designer Michael Kors,<br />

comedian Jerry Seinfeld, pop idol Mariah<br />

Carey and the music legend Billy Joel, to<br />

name but afew.<br />

InsIght by Ca <strong>Carl</strong> rl F. bu buCh Cher erer er Nº6 –17


marketnews<br />

lonDon Jewelers: how itall<br />

starteD.<br />

In the 1920s, Long Island, New York, was<br />

the center ofurban growth. Thousands<br />

of immigrants ofIrish, Italian and Jewish<br />

descent came here looking for jobs and a<br />

chance to make it big inthe world ofindustry.<br />

This was the origin ofthe enormous<br />

cultural diversity that still prevails onLong<br />

Island.<br />

In 1923 CharlesLondonfollowedhis dreams<br />

in the hope ofmaking anew life. Heemigrated<br />

from Europe and settled on Long<br />

Island’s North Shore, where he began servicing<br />

clocks for clients in the area. Soon he<br />

built upaloyal following of the wealthiest<br />

families along Long Island’sGold Coast,<br />

and in1926 was able to open his own storefront<br />

inGlen Cove, selling watches, clocks<br />

and fine jewelry.Itwas one ofthe most significant<br />

milestones in the family’s history.<br />

the faMily coMes together.<br />

London’s daughter Fran and her husband<br />

Mayer Udell later took over the business,<br />

which they handed down totheir son,<br />

Mark Udell, and his wife, Candy. Once the<br />

dynamic couple took over the family business,<br />

London Jewelers really flourished and<br />

evolved into an emblem of true luxury.Soon<br />

the store was attracting people from all over<br />

the world, offering the ultimate inluxurious<br />

jewelry and the finest timepieces from every<br />

corner of the globe.<br />

Candy and Mark’s children, Randi and<br />

Scott Udell, came onboard to share inthe<br />

18 –InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6<br />

family’s great success, becoming the fourth<br />

generation to carry onthe London Jewelers<br />

tradition.<br />

aperioD ofMaJor growth.<br />

In 1980 London Jewelers began expanding<br />

its business, and opened another branch at<br />

the Wheatley Plaza in Greenvale, New<br />

York. Expansion didn’t stop there, and this<br />

was the second store of what was to become<br />

atotal of five. Mark and Candy continued<br />

to build their empire and London Jewelers<br />

at The Americana in Manhasset opened<br />

shortly after the Wheatley store in 1984,<br />

becoming their flagship store.<br />

The Americana Manhasset, which iswidely<br />

referred toasthe Madison Avenue ofLong<br />

Island, isinaprime location amere twenty<br />

miles from Manhattan and fifty miles from<br />

the world-famous and exclusive Hamptons.<br />

This is where London’s hosts its extensive<br />

jewelry salon and watch salon, and has a<br />

mezzanine-level gift gallery, showcasing<br />

over 60 of the world’spremier luxury jewelry<br />

designers and fine timepieces. The vast selection<br />

of products by exceptional designers<br />

is perfectly suited tomeet the discerning<br />

tastes of London’s loyal clients.<br />

London Jewelers atthe Americana has a<br />

well-earned reputation as adependable<br />

source of exquisite gifts, where world-class<br />

brands are truly at home. This reputation is<br />

additionally underpinned by some of the<br />

most trusted and valued partnerships in the<br />

industry today, with <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong><br />

among them.<br />

Charleslondon,the founderoflondon Jewelers,pictured<br />

in frontofhis first storeinGlenCove,long Island.<br />

London’s family of loyal customers continues<br />

to grow as the company’s outstanding selection<br />

and unparalleled service consistently<br />

build relationships that last for generations.<br />

One ofthe reasons for this unusual degree<br />

of loyalty is the fact that customers know<br />

they can always rely onabsolute discretion,<br />

although it’s not atall unusual tocatch a<br />

glimpse of acelebrity at London Jewelers!<br />

The East Hampton and Southampton stores<br />

were another successful venture and another<br />

milestone for the London family. East<br />

Hampton opened its doors in 1996 and<br />

Southampton in 2002. These locations are<br />

mostly seaside resorts for affluent, seasonal<br />

globetrotters. The villages are busy all year<br />

Thelondon Jewelers boutique at theamericana Manhasset Mall in long Island is modern andstylish andstocksawideselectionoftimepieces by <strong>Carl</strong> F. bucherer.


ound but particularly inthe summer, when<br />

alarge number of events are held there. The<br />

atmosphere is in keeping with the laid-back<br />

sophistication typical of the Hamptons.<br />

carl f. bucherer<br />

hits long islanD.<br />

The <strong>Carl</strong> F.<strong>Bucherer</strong> brand isnow part of<br />

the range at all five branches of London<br />

Jewelers. It’s astrong partnership between<br />

twocompanies that share the same philosophy:<br />

that continuity and adeeply rooted<br />

family tradition combinetobuild thestrongest<br />

foundation for abusiness. London<br />

Jewelers and <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong> are two companies<br />

that are still family owned and run<br />

today, which makes the relationship between<br />

the twothat much more valuable and<br />

respected.<br />

“Weare proud to feature <strong>Carl</strong> F.<strong>Bucherer</strong>’s<br />

first-class timepieces inour watch salon.<br />

It’s agreat company towork with and the<br />

quality ofits products speaks for itself,”<br />

says Amanda Hollyday, Marketing Director<br />

at London Jewelers. Amanda continues,<br />

“<strong>Carl</strong> F.<strong>Bucherer</strong> takes atraditional starting<br />

point and makes it their own with their<br />

unique designs and refinements.”<br />

the nassau county<br />

Museum of art<br />

Located in aGeorgianRevival-style<br />

mansion over acentury old,the museum<br />

boasts145 acresofbothwild<br />

andformalgardens,featuring largescalesculpturesbysuchartists<br />

as<br />

Richard Serra, AlexanderCalderand<br />

TomOtterness.<br />

•One Museum Drive<br />

•Roslyn Harbor, NY11576<br />

•Tel. +1 516 484 9337<br />

americana Manhasset Mall<br />

Ahigh-end, open-air shopping<br />

center with over sixty specialty<br />

stores and restaurants featuring<br />

international fashion designer labels<br />

and luxury goods companies such<br />

as Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton,<br />

Donna Karan and Co. Special amenities<br />

and concierge services, including<br />

personal shoppers.<br />

•Northern Boulevard<br />

at Searingtown Road,<br />

•Manhasset, NY 11030<br />

•Tel. +1 516 627 2277<br />

Thefamily-run businessisalready in itsfourthgeneration.Fromleft: Scottudell,Jessica udell, Candyudell (proprietor),<br />

Zach udell, Mark udell(proprietor),Franudell,Mayer udell, randiudell andallyn udell.<br />

the future.<br />

The recent arrival of the fifth generation in<br />

the business heralds adynamic and successful<br />

future for the unique London tradition.<br />

The entire family atLondon Jewelers never<br />

ceases to evolve and continues to work<br />

towards further improvement atevery level.<br />

Insidertipsfor Long Island,New York<br />

oheka castle<br />

Located onthe Gold Coast of Long<br />

Island and built by financier and<br />

philanthropist Otto Kahn between<br />

1914 and 1919, the mansion is<br />

the second largest private home in<br />

the United States, comprising 127<br />

rooms and over 109,000 square<br />

feet, asoriginally configured.<br />

Member of the Historic Hotels of<br />

America with 32guestrooms and<br />

suites on the upper floors of the<br />

mansion, apopular wedding venue<br />

for socialites, celebrities, and dignitaries,<br />

and the backdrop to many<br />

photo shoots and Hollywood productions.<br />

Historic mansion tours of<br />

the estate and gardens possible.<br />

•135 West Gate Drive<br />

•Huntington, NY 11743<br />

• Tel. +1 631 659 1400<br />

Montauk point lighthouse<br />

Montauk is the oldest lighthouse<br />

in New York State and one ofthe<br />

island’s most conspicuous features.<br />

Open all year round, itoffers highly<br />

recommended museum and tower<br />

tours, and the 137-stair climb to<br />

the top ofthe tower isdefinitely<br />

worth the effort. This historic landmark<br />

has been part ofLong<br />

Island’s land and seascape for over<br />

200 years and still serves asan<br />

active aid tonavigation.<br />

•2000 Montauk Highway<br />

•Montauk, NY11954<br />

•Tel. +1 631 668 2544<br />

north fork wine tours<br />

Enjoy the perfect day: From shopping<br />

and walking tours ofthe North<br />

Fork’s historic villages to winetasting<br />

atthe area’s many famous<br />

vineyards and ameal atone of<br />

the North Fork’s fine restaurants.<br />

Group tours can betailored to your<br />

personal needs.<br />

Its members have plans for further growth<br />

and continue tostrive for excellence by<br />

serving aspioneers in the jewelry and watch<br />

industry.<br />

•131 Front Street<br />

•Greenport, NY 11944<br />

•Tel. +1 631 723 0505<br />

the hamptons<br />

Home to the rich and famous.<br />

Located onthe South Fork of the<br />

easternmost end of Long Island,<br />

the area encompasses the towns<br />

of Southampton and East Hampton,<br />

with their many hamlets and villages,<br />

including Sag Harbor, Water<br />

Mill and Bridgehampton. Miles<br />

of stunning beaches, museums,<br />

fine dining and celebrity-watching.<br />

InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6 –19


it �y?<br />

When you �y SWISS Business, anything ispossible. You’ll enjoy Swiss cuisine, great<br />

entertainment and then afully �at bed. For further information and bookings contact<br />

your travel agent or visit swiss.com<br />

Award winning:<br />

SWISS Business with<br />

fully �at bed


sp spon onso sors rshi hip<br />

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“Now and again, weget aclient who’s<br />

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22 –InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6<br />

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The company’s modern take on the tailoring<br />

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Switzerland’sleading supplier of made-tomeasure<br />

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The store in Zurich is only one oftwelve<br />

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employeesofSuitart aG andbuchererMontresS.a.<br />

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at acool 2.8 million dollars. It’s the sort<br />

of thing Qwould come up with for James<br />

Bond.<br />

InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6 –23


Fr Frie iend nds oF th the Br Bran and<br />

From From From Worblaufen…<br />

Worblaufen…<br />

Worblaufen…<br />

to to to<br />

CFB<br />

Hollywood. Hollywood. Hollywood.<br />

SEP 2012<br />

Wh What at ac acto tor do does esn’ n’t dr drea eam of ma maki king ng hi his care<br />

reer er in Hol Holly lywo wood od? Of be bein ing in invi vite ted to all<br />

th the gl glam amor orou ous A- A-li list st ev even ents ts, ru rubb bbin ing sh shou oullde<br />

ders rs wi with th th the wo worl rld’ d’s gr grea eat an and go good od, an and<br />

ap appe pear arin ing in all th the bi big ma magaz gazin ines es? On One<br />

th thin ing’ g’s fo for su sure re: as a bo boy, Da Dani niel el Be Bern rnha hard rdt<br />

ne neve ver ga gave Hol Holly lywo wood od a se seco cond nd th thou ough ght. t.<br />

Bu But it it’s ’s wh where ere he ea earn rns hi his li livi ving ng to toda day, as<br />

an ac acto tor. Fo For all th that at, fi film lms ha have fa fasc scin inat ated ed<br />

hi him fo for as lo long ng as he ca can re reme memb mber er. “G “Goi oing ng<br />

to th the mo movi vies es on Tues esda day aft after erno noon on wi with th<br />

my mo mom, m, si sitt ttin ing th there ere in th the da dark rkne ness ss an and<br />

be bein ing imm immer erse sed in th this is fa fant ntas asy wo worl rld: d: fo for<br />

me me, th that at was th the hi high ghli ligh ght of th the we week ek,” ,” he<br />

re reca call lls, s, ev even en no now, w, all th thes ese yea years rs la late ter. Bu But<br />

de desp spit ite th the fa fasc scin inat atio ion of th the si silv lver er sc scre reen en,<br />

he fi firs rst em emba bark rked ed on a co comparat ativ ivel ely so soli lid<br />

an and pr prac acti tica cal – “pro rope per” r” was the wo word rd hi his<br />

pa pare rent nts used fo for it – ap appr prentice cesh ship. In 1981 81,<br />

at th the ag age of 16, hestar arte ted tr trai aini ning as a<br />

te techni nica cal dr draftsm sman. Af After completing this,<br />

24 – InsIg InsIght ht by Ca <strong>Carl</strong> rl F. bu buCh Cher erer er Nº6<br />

Daniel Bernhardt<br />

he st stud udie ied ar arch chit itec ectu tura ral de desi sign gn. At th the<br />

sa same me ti time me, Da Dani niel el di disc scov overe ered th the ne next xt gr grea eat<br />

pa pass ssion ion in hi his li life: fe: ma mart rtia ial ar arts ts. He an and hi his<br />

ma mast ster er op open ened ed a ma mart rtia ial ar arts ts sc scho hool ol ne near ar<br />

Wo Worb rbla lauf ufen, hi his hom homet etow own an and pl plac ace of<br />

bi birt rth ne near ar th the ci city ty of Be Bern rn. In ma mart rtia ial ar arts ts,<br />

he be beli liev eved ed he ha had fo foun und a di disc scip ipli line ne he<br />

wo woul uld ch cher eris ish all hi his li life fe.<br />

a br brea eak –<br />

than thanks ks to gi gian anni ni ve vers rsac ace. e.<br />

Bu But th that at was no not to be be, an and hi his pl plan ans we were re<br />

sc scot otch ched ed by hi his go good od lo look oks. s. Fo Foll llow owin ing hi his<br />

di disc scov over ery by a mo mode del ag agen ency cy, he mo moved ved<br />

to Pa Pari ris at th the ag age of 21 to sp spen end ei eigh ght yea years rs<br />

st stan andi ding ng in fr fron ont of th the ca came mera ras fo for bi big<br />

fash shion ion la labe bels ls li like ke Th Thie ierr rry Mu Mugl gler er, Di Dior or,<br />

Mo Mont ntan ana an and Gi Gianf anfranc nco Fe Ferr rré. é. He th then en<br />

sp spent ayear inNewYo York rk, wh where ere he wa was al also so<br />

busy as a mo mode del doin ing sh shoo oots for magazines<br />

like Vogue, ELLE and GQ. But atthe back<br />

of hi his mi mind nd was al always hi his en enth thus usia iasm sm fo for<br />

th the ma mart rtia ial ar arts ts.<br />

Th Then en ca came me th the da day th that at ch chan anged ged ev ever eryt ythi hing ng<br />

an and ga gave hi him an op oppo port rtun unit ity to co comb mbin ine<br />

ac acti ting ng wi with th hi his ma mart rtia ial ar arts ts sk skil ills ls. At th this is<br />

pa part rtic icul ular ar ti time me, wel welll-kn<br />

know own ph photo otogr grap aphe her<br />

Br Bruc uce We Webe ber was in sea searc rch of a mo mode del fo for<br />

th the “L “Loo ooki king ng fo for Ki Kick cks” s” TV sp spot ot fo for Gi Gian anni ni<br />

Ve Vers rsac ace. e. At th the au audi diti tion ons, s, We Webe ber was so<br />

kn knoc ocke ked ou out by Be Bern rnha hard rdt’ t’s au auth then enti tic pr pres esen<br />

ence ce an and hi his ex extr trao aord rdin inar ary ta tale lent nt in th the<br />

ma mart rtia ial ar arts ts th that at he hir hired ed hi him fo for th the su supppo<br />

port rtin ing ro role le on th the sp spot ot. Th The le lead ad ro role le was<br />

be bein ing pl play ayed ed by no none ne ot othe her th than an ac acti tion on fi film lm<br />

fr fron ont ma man Je Jean an-C -Cla laud ude va van Da Damm mme. e. “I “It was<br />

an ex expe peri rien ence ce th that at im impr press essed ed me a lo lot an and<br />

fo for th the se seco cond nd ti time me in my li life fe it sh show owed ed me<br />

ho how mu much ch I lov loved ed th the mo movi vies es. From om th that at<br />

po poin int on on, I’ I’d ma made de my de deci cisi sion on: I was go goin ing<br />

to ge get in into to it it,” ,” re rela late tes Da Dani niel el Be Bern rnha hard rdt. t.


three leaDing roles<br />

plus awife.<br />

In 1993, following atape produced todemonstrate<br />

his martial arts expertise, he arrived<br />

at the Los Angeles Dream Factory onthe<br />

American west coast. Waiting for him was<br />

the producer ofthe cult martial arts movie<br />

“Bloodsport”. For the second, third and<br />

fourth parts ofthe movie heoffered him the<br />

leading role, which inthe first part had been<br />

played by Jean-Claude van Damme. Also<br />

present onthe set for the fourth part, which<br />

was shot in Bulgaria, was Canadian actress<br />

Lisa Stothard,who played theleading female<br />

role in the movie. Not long afterwards, she<br />

was also playing the leading role inDaniel<br />

Bernhardt’s life. He and the ex-model have<br />

been anitem since 1998 and married in<br />

2003. Today, they live with their daughter<br />

Bella in Beverly Hills.<br />

as precise asaswiss watch.<br />

Theprestigious 90210zip code in hisaddress<br />

sounds more glamorous than Daniel Bernhardtactuallyintended.<br />

Afterall,his favorite<br />

way ofspending his free time and switching<br />

off from the rigors of professional life is<br />

with his family out in the wilds of California.<br />

But itcomes as no surprise to learn that<br />

despite all the years he has spent in the<br />

USA hestill maintains close ties with Switzerland.<br />

“Switzerland’s my home and always<br />

will be. I’m Swiss and can’t beanything<br />

else. Mymom and brothers, who Ivisit on a<br />

regular basis, still live there. Without my<br />

Swiss roots, Iwouldn’t bewhat Iamtoday.”<br />

His ties with Switzerland are also strengthened<br />

by his role asaFriend ofthe Brand<br />

for the Lucerne watch manufacturers <strong>Carl</strong><br />

F. <strong>Bucherer</strong>. Herepresents the company’s<br />

products with acompelling blend of Swiss<br />

“down-to-earthness” and his own natural –<br />

not tomention highly attractive –image.<br />

He explains the passion he also feels for his<br />

involvement inthe brand asfollows: “Iadore<br />

the design, quality and traditional craftsmanship<br />

that gointo the timepieces made<br />

by <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong>. It’s got to the point in<br />

the morning where Ican’t decide which one<br />

to wear. That’s another reason why I’m so<br />

proud to be aFriend ofthe Brand for <strong>Carl</strong><br />

F. <strong>Bucherer</strong>,” explains Daniel Bernhardt.<br />

Apart from this, hepossesses one ofthe<br />

virtues that eminently qualify him to be an<br />

ambassador for awell-known watch brand<br />

and identify him asbeing Swiss through<br />

and through: “I’ve always been incredibly<br />

punctual. The idea of being late for anything<br />

is unthinkable, whether I’m in Switzerland<br />

or on the set in Hollywood.”<br />

It was there on the set that he met Canadian<br />

actor Keanu Reeves, when they both appeared<br />

in the science fiction movie, “The<br />

Matrix Reloaded”.Reeves played lead to<br />

Bernhardt, who was cast in the role ofbadguy<br />

agent Johnson. Bad guy? If your name’s<br />

Daniel Bernhardt and you’re as passionate<br />

about things asheis, arole like that isno<br />

problem. Welook forward to hearing more<br />

about his future projects.<br />

To be continued… In our next issue you<br />

can read about the hobby Daniel Bernhardt<br />

shares with Keanu Reeves and what happened<br />

onset with Jennifer Lopez, Jason<br />

Statham and Nick Nolte during the making<br />

of “Parker”.<br />

InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6 –25


impressions Baselworld 2012<br />

The <strong>Bucherer</strong><br />

family meT up<br />

on The carl f.<br />

<strong>Bucherer</strong> sTand<br />

aT Ba<br />

Baselworld ld<br />

20 2012.<br />

1 ta tanj nja Fr Frui uith thof of, Ge Gener neral al ma mana nage ger Bu Buch cher erer er Zu Zuri rich ch, wi with th Fr Fran ank<br />

m. ri rind nder erkn knec echt ht, ce ceo of ri rinsp nspee eed aG an and a ca carl rl F. Bu Buch cher erer er<br />

Fr Frien iend of th the Br Bran and. d. in th the ba back ckgr groun ound ur urs von ar arx (le (left ft), ), Ge Gener neral al<br />

ma mana nage ger Bu Buch cher erer er Ba Base sel, l, an and ma mart rtin in hu husi si, Ge Gener neral al ma mana nage ger<br />

Bu Buch cher erer er st. mo mori ritz tz.<br />

2 sa sasc scha ha mo moer eri, i, ce ceo Bu Buch cher erer er mo montr ntres es s. s.a. a., wi with th Je Jerr rry ts tsan ang, g,<br />

ho hono nora rary ry ch chai airm rman an an and ce ceo of Bu Buch cher erer er ho hong ng ko kong ng lt ltd. d.<br />

3 mu mukht khtar ar mo moham hammed med (r (righ ight) t), re regi gion onal al ma mark rket et dir direc ecto tor of<br />

Bu Buch cher erer er ho hong ng ko kong ng ltd. ltd.,<br />

eng engag ages es in a sa sale les pi pitc tch wi with th dea deale lers rs.<br />

4 Fr Fred edy Ba Bart rth (le (left ft), ), ca carl rl F. Bu Buch cher erer er Fr Frien iend of th the Br Bran and, d, dee deep in<br />

co conv nver ersa sati tion on wi with th dr dr. al albr brec echt ht ha haak ake, e, ex exec ecuti utive ve Vi Vice ce pr presid esiden ent<br />

te tech chno nolo logie gies of ca carl rl F. Bu Buch cher erer er.<br />

5 Fr Fran anz re reic ichho hholf lf, Ge Gener neral al ma mana nage ger Bu Buch cher erer er lu lugan gano, o, wi with th<br />

st step epha han sc schm hmid idlin lin, wo wood od sc scul ulpt ptor or an and ca carl rl F. Bu Buch cher erer er Fr Frien iend<br />

of th the Br Bran and. d.<br />

6 cu culin linar ary de dele lect ctat ations ions on th the st stan and, d, pr prep epar ared ed by st star ar ch chef ef sa sand ndro ro<br />

st stei eing ngru rube ber. r.<br />

7 Ge Gener neral al ma mana nage gers rs ge gett ttin ing to toge geth ther er: Jör Jörg st stra raub ub (le (left ft), ), Bu Buch cher erer er<br />

in inte terl rlak aken en, an and Jo Jose sef wi willin lliner er, Bu Buch cher erer er lu luce cern rne. e.<br />

8 sa sasc scha ha mo moer eri ga gave ve mu mura rat ya yaki kin an and Be Bern rnt ha haas as, bo both th fo form rmer er<br />

so socc ccer er in inte tern rnat ation ional als, s, a pe pers rson onal al pr prese esenta ntati tion on of th the ne new mod models els.<br />

9 hi high gh-r -ran anki king ng vi visi sito tor fr from om ho holl llyw ywood: ood: ar arno nold ld sc schw hwar arzene zenegge gger is<br />

th the pr prou oud ow owner ner of a pa patr trav avi tr trav avel elte tec. c.<br />

10 mu mura rat ya yaki kin, n, ca carl rl F. Bu Buch cher erer er Fr Frien iend of th the Br Bran and, d, wi with th Jör Jörg<br />

st stra raub ub an and sa sasc scha ha mo moer eri. i.<br />

11 35 ye year ars old old, 17 Ga Gaul ultm tmill illau au poin points ts an and st star ar ch chef ef in th the ep epoc oca<br />

re rest stau aura rant nt at th the fi five ve-s -sta tar wa wald ldha haus us Fl Flims ims mo moun unta tain in re reso sort rt &<br />

sp spa in Fl Flims ims, sw swit itzer zerla land: nd: sa sand ndro ro st stei eing ngru rube ber, r, ca carl rl F. Bu Buch cher erer er<br />

Fr Frien iend of th the Br Bran and. d.<br />

12 ke keep epin ing it in th the fa fami mily ly: Br Bruno uno Be Bena nagl glio io (le (left ft) ta talk lks sh shop op wi with th his<br />

so son di diego ego, goa goalk lkeep eeper er fo for th the sw swis iss na nati tion onal al so socc ccer er te team am.<br />

13 cl clau aude de Ju Jutz tzi (le (left ft), ), Ge Gener neral al ma mana nage ger Bu Buch cher erer er la laus usan anne ne, an and<br />

se seba bast stia ian ma mart rten en, re regi gion onal al ma mark rket et dir direc ecto tor wi with th ca carl rl F. Bu Buch cher erer er.<br />

26 –InsIght by Ca <strong>Carl</strong> rl F. bu buCh Cher erer er Nº6<br />

1<br />

2<br />

3


4<br />

5<br />

6<br />

7<br />

8 13<br />

9<br />

10<br />

11 12<br />

InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6 –27


catchinG upwith<br />

Avisit to St. Moritz inSwitzerland is something<br />

that has to be earned. Inthe truest<br />

sense ofthe word. First of all, ifyou go in<br />

high season –inwinter –and want to enjoy<br />

yourself, you’llneed enough ready cash.<br />

Andsecond, gettinguptoSt. Moritz at 1,856<br />

meters above sea level means you’ll have to<br />

surmount afew mountain passes and steep,<br />

winding roads. Orperhaps have the pleasure<br />

of doing so. Because en route to St. Moritz<br />

and inthe village itself, you cannot fail to<br />

be impressed by the fabulous natural surroundings,<br />

the breathtaking panoramas that<br />

embrace the Alps and the lake and, of<br />

course, the unique light. If figures are to be<br />

believed, you can look forward to 322 days<br />

of sunshine ayear. Small wonder, then, that<br />

the place teems with tourists, who descend<br />

on the Engadine mainly for the winter sport.<br />

With around 5,000 permanent inhabitants,<br />

the picturesque village expands to become<br />

the eighth-largest town in Switzerland<br />

during the winter months.<br />

breathtaking alpine<br />

backDrop…<br />

The start of winter tourism dates back to<br />

1864. For it was then that the first English<br />

28 –InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6<br />

visitors arrived for awinter vacation, atthe<br />

invitation of St.Moritzhotel pioneerJohannes<br />

Badrutt. Legend has itthat hemade abet<br />

with anumber ofEnglish guests staying<br />

at his “Kulm” hotel in summer. Heclaimed<br />

that the sun was so strong in winter, too,<br />

that you could walk around in shirtsleeves.<br />

And ifitwasn’t, he would pay for his guests’<br />

return trip toEngland. Needless to say,<br />

Badrutt won his bet and the English<br />

returned. Because even back then, Johannes<br />

Badrutt knew how to combine Alpine<br />

winter tourism with the expectations ofa<br />

cosmopolitan clientele.<br />

Since then, prominent visitors such as Henry<br />

Ford, Gunter Sachs, Marc Rich, the Shah<br />

of Persia, the entrepreneurial Agnelli family,<br />

IKEA founder Ingvar Kamprad and the<br />

twoGreek ship-owning families of Niarchos<br />

and Onassis have been among the regular<br />

guests. Attracted by the undisguised luxury<br />

of St. Moritz and its total discretion.<br />

…inachaMpagne cliMate.<br />

For inSt. Moritz luxury plays arole that is<br />

at least asimportant as the breathtaking<br />

spectacle ofunspoilt Nature. St. Moritz isa<br />

gathering ground for the rich and famous.<br />

St.Moritz<br />

Cosmopolitan chic and<br />

unspoilt Nature.<br />

Andevery year, thevillage hostssomehighly<br />

prestigious events, especially the St. Moritz<br />

Polo World Cup on Snow and the White<br />

Turf St. Moritz, an international horse racing<br />

meet, likewise held onsnow. The most<br />

exclusive address for aplace of your own –<br />

from acertain price category upwards –is<br />

the Via Suvretta, aroad that snakes up the<br />

mountain and, according tovarious sources,<br />

is number seven inalist of the world’srichest<br />

streets. For shopping you head tothe Via<br />

Serlas and the Via Maistra, where the boutiques<br />

of Chanel, Gucci, Louis Vuitton, Roberto<br />

Cavalli orPrada stand cheek by jowl.<br />

At the heart of this unique combination,<br />

another jewel glitters in its newfound glory:<br />

the luxurious store of traditional Swiss<br />

watch and jewelry retailers <strong>Bucherer</strong> is resplendent<br />

inthe Via Maistra, atthe heart of<br />

the village. The St. Moritz store was the<br />

first one in the <strong>Bucherer</strong> Group toberedesigned<br />

and fitted tocomply with the new<br />

store concept, and opened inNovember<br />

2011. Wecaught upwith Martin Husi,<br />

General Manager of the St. Moritz store,<br />

and asked him totell usmore about the new<br />

shop interior concept and the significance of<br />

a<strong>Bucherer</strong> store for St. Moritz.


Martin Husi,haveyou managedtosettle<br />

into thenew storeyet?<br />

husi: It’s almost like starting in anew job.<br />

Everything about itisnew, from the store<br />

room to the display areas. Ihad afew problems<br />

finding my way around initially, but in<br />

the meantime I’ve got used to it.<br />

Whywas thestore in St.Moritzofall<br />

places chosen as thefirst to integratethe<br />

newshopconcept?<br />

The St. Moritz branch was opened in 1931,<br />

making it one ofthe first ofatotal of 15<br />

stores in Switzerland, which iswhy it was<br />

more inneed ofarefurbishment than many<br />

of the others. Besides, Mr. <strong>Bucherer</strong> comes<br />

to St. Moritz very often for family reasons<br />

and wanted touse it to make apoint. The<br />

store isastatement about St. Moritz as a<br />

location.<br />

To whatextentdoesthe newstore concept<br />

differ from theold one?<br />

The entire store was gutted to the outer<br />

walls and totally redesigned. Now itextends<br />

over three open-plan floors, tiered like a<br />

staircase sothat one always has afull view<br />

of the interior. The uppermost section<br />

is home tohaute horlogerie –fine watchmaking,<br />

the middle is devoted exclusively<br />

to jewelry and the lowest area is amix of<br />

watches and jewelry.<br />

“the fine balancebetween<br />

glamor in my everyday life<br />

andsimplicityinmyprivate<br />

sphere keepsmehappy<br />

andcontent.”<br />

Martin Husi<br />

Thanks to the new store concept wealso<br />

have our“own” radiostation:Radio <strong>Bucherer</strong>.<br />

The station plays inthe background in all<br />

<strong>Bucherer</strong> stores with the new design. I’m always<br />

pleased when Ihear one of my favorite<br />

pieces ofclassical music being played.<br />

What do youparticularlylikeabout the<br />

newstore concept?<br />

I’m very taken by our entire new image.<br />

We’ve dusted out the cobwebs and it’s now<br />

much fresher and more spacious and simply<br />

makes you feel good. I’m particularly fond<br />

of the combination of materials and colors.<br />

And wehaven’t had asingle customer, either<br />

local oratourist, who’s found ittoo “chic”.<br />

Howhaveyou positioned <strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong><br />

in thenew storeconcept?<br />

<strong>Carl</strong> F. <strong>Bucherer</strong> plays avery prominent<br />

role. When you look at the outside display<br />

window, the brand simply cannot bemissed.<br />

As you enter the stores, the first thing that<br />

meets you on the right-hand side isanother<br />

display case dedicated to the Lucerne-based<br />

watch brand. After all, people should see<br />

your most beautiful items the moment they<br />

set foot inthe door. Or, to put itanother<br />

way: you never get asecond chance tomake<br />

afirst impression.<br />

What does it mean forSt. Moritz as a<br />

tourist destinationthat<strong>Bucherer</strong>now has<br />

amoremodernstore conceptatits premises<br />

in theVia Maistra?<br />

It’s awindow to aworldofluxury. Even if<br />

youdon’t want to go over thetop,you have to<br />

stay up with thefrontrunnersinSt. Moritz.<br />

Wheredoyourcustomers tend to come<br />

from?<br />

Seventy percent of our clientele are tourists,<br />

and very international. Insummer wehave<br />

lots of groups, with plenty ofAsians. In<br />

winter they are mainly Swiss, English, Russians<br />

and visitors from the Benelux states.<br />

The Italians are aspecial case: they still<br />

come to St. Moritz but they no longer buy<br />

quite somuch. Among other things, this is<br />

due tothe strength of the Swiss franc.<br />

Hasthe newstore conceptattracted any<br />

newcustomers?<br />

Idon’t think so. But itispossible that more<br />

people come in out ofcuriosity and notice<br />

that the new store has given <strong>Bucherer</strong> anew,<br />

fresher image. And for usthat’s anopportunity.<br />

Does <strong>Bucherer</strong> stillhaveany real<br />

competitioninSt. Moritz?<br />

And how! There’s astretch of luxury boutiques<br />

about 500 to 600 meters long next to<br />

the Palace Hotel. It’s packed with individual<br />

brands. But the fact we’re amultibrand<br />

company gives us acompetitive edge over<br />

them. Another big advantage for usisour<br />

in-house watch repair service and jewelry<br />

workshop. Iestimate that around 90 percent<br />

of the dedicated brand boutiques here in<br />

town come to us when they need watch or<br />

jewelry repairs. Particularly when they need<br />

fast service for day visitors. The Glacier<br />

Express doesn’t hang around waiting for<br />

passengers.<br />

Apart from that, visitors appreciate our<br />

long-serving staffand thepersonaltreatment<br />

they can expect when they pop in to see us.<br />

No one else inour industry can offer that<br />

kind of service inSt. Moritz.<br />

No doubt,you getlotsofprominent<br />

customersfromall over theworld. Is there<br />

anydifferencebetween thesales pitch<br />

youdelivertoaVIP andthe one you give to<br />

ordinary mortalslikeyou andme?<br />

That raises aquestion: what exactly do we<br />

mean by “prominent”? When is someone<br />

prominent? It’s all very relative. Let’s take<br />

Gianni Agnelli, for instance. Now for me,<br />

he was prominent because he worked hard<br />

InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6 –29


catchinG upwith<br />

and achieved alot in his lifetime. But he<br />

would drive up modestly to our store in a<br />

little Fiat Panda. People whose only interest<br />

is being part ofthe jet set are not necessarily<br />

the kind ofcustomers Iwant tosee in the<br />

store.<br />

Sometimes wedon’t immediately recognize<br />

celebrities, particularly if they come in<br />

wearing their skiing gear. Ionly recognized<br />

Liz Hurley, for example, when one ofmy<br />

staff tipped meoff. Besides, you don’t always<br />

have to make asong and dance ifsome<br />

famous person walks in.<br />

ristorante lastalla<br />

Italian and international cuisine in<br />

aunique, rustic setting.<br />

•Plazza del Mulin 2<br />

•Tel. +41 81837 58 59<br />

•www.lastalla-stmoritz.ch<br />

piano bar<br />

Oldest bar inSt. Moritz, legendary<br />

reputation, with lots of candlelight<br />

and live piano music.<br />

•Hotel Schweizerhof<br />

•Via dal Bagn 54<br />

•Tel.+41 81837 07 07<br />

•www.schweizerhofstmoritz.ch<br />

30 –InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6<br />

Do youtrain your people speciallyindealingwithprominent<br />

customers? If so,how?<br />

No, wedon’t do that. Our staff receive completely<br />

standard training and treat all our<br />

customers the same. Actually, well-known<br />

customers really appreciate the fact that we<br />

don’t behave differently towards them and<br />

treat them like normal customers. That’s<br />

one ofthe reasons why we have never closed<br />

the store for aprominent visitor.<br />

Insidertipsfor St.Moritz<br />

hotel languard<br />

Family-owned, home from home:<br />

an Engadine style hotel with<br />

breathtaking views ofthe lake and<br />

mountains.<br />

•Via Veglia 14<br />

•Tel. +41 81833 31 37<br />

•www.languard-stmoritz.ch<br />

faoro fashion boutique<br />

Awide range of functional casual<br />

clothing, shoes and accessories.<br />

•Plazza dal Mulin 8<br />

•Tel. +41 81833 36 45<br />

•www.faoro.ch<br />

Joy<br />

An internationally renowned<br />

fashion concept store with new<br />

and exclusive, avant-garde clothing<br />

from leading fashion centers.<br />

•Via Maistra 23<br />

•Tel. +41 81834 92 92<br />

•www.joystmoritz.com<br />

glattfelder<br />

Asmall family-owned company<br />

specializing in Iranian caviar and<br />

high-quality coffee and tea.<br />

•Via Maistra 3<br />

•Tel. +41 81837 39 39<br />

•www.glattfelder.ch<br />

Do youhaveany amusing anecdotesthat<br />

youcould tell us about aprominent visitor<br />

to your store?<br />

Ican’t really think of aspecific story about<br />

someone prominent on the spur ofthe moment.<br />

But I’ve got afunny one for you. The<br />

Palace Hotel called to inform that some<br />

Englishmen were on their way to buy some<br />

jewelry and watches from us. We could<br />

hardly believe our eyes when they got out of<br />

the Palace’s Rolls-Royce. They’d come<br />

directly from the spa and were wearing the<br />

bathrobes and slippers supplied bythe hotel.<br />

To top itall, itwas winter and 20degrees<br />

below zero.<br />

Muottas Muragl<br />

At 2,456 meters above sea level,<br />

one ofthe most beautiful vantage<br />

points in the Upper Engadine, with<br />

unmatched views over the lakes.<br />

paradiso-hütte<br />

Savor the mountain panorama at<br />

2,181 meters above sea level from<br />

the comfort ofyour lounger or<br />

around the fire.<br />

•Tel. +41 81833 40 02<br />

•www.el-paradiso.ch<br />

alphütte clavadatsch<br />

Acowshed until 1956, it is now a<br />

rustic alpine hut amidst the villas<br />

on the Suvretta slopes.<br />

•www.schweizerhofstmoritz.ch


Ve Vent ntur ura / Sh Shut utte terst rstoc ock. k.co com<br />

When youthink back to theearly days of<br />

<strong>Bucherer</strong>’s storeinSt. Moritz andyour<br />

starting your jobasGeneral Manager,<br />

whatwould yousay haschanged in that<br />

time?<br />

I’ve beenhere in St.Moritzfor over 20 years.<br />

When Ifirst came, Inever really noticed<br />

that <strong>Bucherer</strong> was so deeply involved in jewelry:for<br />

me it was only the watches. Apart<br />

from that, Ialways thought of St. Moritz as<br />

aplace for older people. But in the past ten<br />

years, we’ve really got out ofarut and caught<br />

up with the times. Everything’s much fresher,<br />

zappier and more youthful than it used<br />

to be. St. Moritz has really shaken off its<br />

dusty image. And the <strong>Bucherer</strong> store has<br />

moved with it.<br />

IonlyreallynoticethatI’vebeenhere so long<br />

and that the years are passing when some<br />

of our more elderly clients suddenly stop<br />

coming in. You start wondering whether<br />

they’re still alive. Youonly know for certain<br />

when the Christmas cards you’ve sent are<br />

returned.<br />

Today, St.Moritzrepresentsincredible<br />

luxury on theone hand and, on theother,<br />

nature at itspurest. Wheredoyou feel<br />

most comfortable?<br />

Ihave two different personalities. When<br />

Iput on my suit and tie in the morning I’m<br />

abusinessman who sells luxury items and<br />

gives people the feeling ofwealth. In my<br />

spare time, Iprefer tokeep itsimple. Ienjoy<br />

fishing and hiking, orgoing for rides on my<br />

motorbike. And there’s nothing Ilove more<br />

than sitting inour alpine hut on Marguns,<br />

looking down onCelerina at2,276 meters<br />

abovesea level, andallowingmygazetodrift<br />

over the mountains. This fine balance between<br />

glamor in my everyday life and simplicity<br />

inmyprivate sphere keeps mehappy<br />

and content.<br />

InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6 –31


Viewpoint<br />

TheNatureof<br />

TheBeast –<br />

Watch<br />

Companies.<br />

As a jou journ rnal alist ist wi with th mor more th than an 15 yea years rs of<br />

ex expe peri rien ence ce co cove veri ring ng th the wa watc tch in indu dust stry ry, I’ I’ve ve<br />

see seen tr tren ends, ds, wa watc tche hes an and wh whol ole co comp mpani anies es<br />

co come me an and go go.<br />

Wh What at’s ’s ho hot on one yea year is dé dépa pass ssé th the ne next xt.<br />

An And he hera rald lded ed fr fres esh, h, ne new de desi sign gns ar are of ofte ten<br />

on ones es th that at ap appe pear ared ed de deca cade des or ev even en ce cenntu<br />

turi ries es ag ago. o.<br />

Su Sure re, th the ne new st stuff uff is co cool ol an and ma makes kes fo for a<br />

go good od st stor ory, y, bu but mo most st in inte tere rest stin ing fo for me<br />

ar are th the qu qual alit ity co comp mpani anies es th that at ar are he here re fo for<br />

th the lo long ng ha haul ul. Ma Maki king ng a sp spla lash sh wi with th a co cool ol<br />

ne new wa watc tch ca catc tche hes pe peop ople le’s ’s at atte tent ntion ion, bu but<br />

es esta tabl blis ishi hing ng a co comp mpan any th that at is he here re to toda day an and<br />

wi will ll st stil ill be he here re tw twen enty ty yea years rs in th the fu futu ture re<br />

is a tr true ue ch chall allen enge. ge.<br />

I’ I’ve ve no noti tice ced th that at th there ere te tend nd to be tw two ki kind nds<br />

of co comp mpani anies es in th the wa watc tch in indu dust stry ry – th the<br />

on ones es th that at sp spen end bi big mo mone ney on ma mark rket etin ing, g,<br />

to tout utin ing th them emse selv lves es fr from om th the hi highe ghest st mo moun unta<br />

tain into top ab abou out th thei eir he heri rita tage ge, th thei eir am amba basssad<br />

sador ors an and th thei eir la late test st sp spla lash shy ev even ent, t, an and<br />

br bran ands ds wi with th tr true ue de dedi dica cati tion on to th the ar art of<br />

ti time meke keep epin ing, g, en ende deavo avori ring ng to ma make ke ev ever er<br />

mor more pr prec ecis ise, e, mor more co comf mfor orta tabl ble, e, mor more ca cappab<br />

able le wr wrist istwa watc tche hes. s.<br />

32 –InsIght by <strong>Carl</strong> F. buCherer Nº6<br />

I th thin ink we ne need ed bo both th ki kind nds of co comp mpani anies es in<br />

th this is bu busi sine ness, ss, an and I ap appr prec ecia iate te bo both th appr<br />

proa oach ches es. I mu must st ad admi mit, t, ho howe weve ver, r, th that at I am<br />

mor more in inte tere rest sted ed in th the on ones es wh who ar are se seri riou ous<br />

ab abou out wa watc tchm hmak akin ing an and no not ju just st ou out to<br />

ge gene nera rate te so some me ma mark rket etin ing noi noise se.<br />

I’ I’ve ve kn know own th the Ca <strong>Carl</strong> rl F. Bu Buch cherer erer br bran and fr from om<br />

th the ve very ry be begi ginn nnin ing an and ha have ve fol follo lowe wed it its<br />

gr grow owth th in into to th the le lead adin ing co comp mpan any it is to toda day. y.<br />

I to tour ured ed it its ma manu nufac factu ture re in Sa Sain inte te-C -Cro roix ix<br />

wh when en it was ju just st an em empt pty spa space ce – no now it it’s ’s a<br />

st stat ate-o e-off-ththee-ar<br />

art re resea searc rch an and de deve velop lopme ment nt<br />

an and ma manu nufac factu turi ring ng fac facili ility ty.<br />

By Ke Keit ith W. St Stra rand ndbe berg rg<br />

In Inte tern rnat atio iona nal Ed Edit itor or<br />

Wa Watc tch Jo Jour urna nal/ l/Eu Euro ropa pa St Star ar<br />

Th The gr grow owth th of th the br bran and ha has bee been st step ep by<br />

st step ep, or orga gani nic, c, an and wi with thou out th the sm smok oke an and<br />

mi mirr rror ors an and gl glit itz an and gl glam amou our of ot othe her<br />

br bran ands ds.<br />

Th Than ank go good odne ness ss fo for co comp mpani anies es li like ke Ca <strong>Carl</strong> rl F.<br />

Bu Buch cherer erer, br bran ands ds do doin ing th thin ings gs th the ri righ ght wa way<br />

fo for th the ri righ ght re reas ason ons, s, in th this is bu busi sine ness ss fo for th the<br />

lo long ng ru run. n. Ca <strong>Carl</strong> rl F. Bu Buch cherer erer, wi with th it its st stor orie ies<br />

of su subs bsta tanc nce, e, ma makes kes my job as a jou journ rnal alist ist<br />

th that at mu much ch ea easi sier er.<br />

“interesting formeare<br />

thequality companiesthat<br />

areherefor thelonghaul.”


New Products<br />

In<br />

perfectshape.<br />

In the Alacria Mini TwoTone, the Alacria<br />

ladies’ watch line from the House of <strong>Carl</strong> F.<br />

<strong>Bucherer</strong> has gained atop-quality timepiece<br />

with anumber ofattractive features.<br />

The exquisitely finished wristwatch, with<br />

its stylishly distinctive contrasting colors in<br />

silver and 18krose gold, is more than a<br />

mere timepiece. The dual-color combination<br />

transforms it into adiscreetly elegant piece<br />

of jewelry that will never goout of fashion.<br />

It means that the Alacria Mini TwoTone is<br />

not only the perfect choice for any occasion<br />

but also looks fabulous combined with your<br />

favorite silver or gold jewelry.<br />

With its strikingly sweeping lines, the<br />

Alacria Mini TwoTone remains faithful to<br />

the spirit ofthe charismatic Alacria family.<br />

Like all the other members ofthe line, the<br />

watch has arectangular case with convex<br />

sides and is aperfectly balanced expression<br />

of both divine and female beauty. And,<br />

thanks to the two-color combination, it<br />

adds afurther dimension: the captivating<br />

play of colors from the contrasting silver,<br />

stainless steel and 18 krose gold that runs<br />

across the dial, the case and bracelet.<br />

After all, beauty isamany-faceted thing.<br />

Dual colors.<br />

Precision mechanics.<br />

In terms ofdesign the timepiece, which<br />

harmoniously combines angular shapes with<br />

optically elongated lines and organically<br />

inspired contours, is decidedly classical: the<br />

rose gold indices and Roman numerals at<br />

6and 12 o’clock are bordered with three<br />

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Tone is not only chic but also an extremely<br />

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know, it’s good for awoman to have something<br />

she can always count on.<br />

iNSight BY CA CARL RL F. BU BUCH CHER ERER ER Nº6 –33


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