Waitomo and King Country tracks - Department of Conservation

ContentsIntroductionIntroduction 1Getting there 1Limestone landscape 2Speleothems 2The King Country 3Enjoying the outdoors safely 4Track classification 4Please remember 4Essential gear 4Track markers 5River crossings 5Dogs owners—please note 5Walks around Waitomo 6The Waitomo scenic drive 9Marokopa 10Kiritehere Beach 10Other walking tracks 11Mapara Wildlife Reserve 12Tawarau and Whareorino forests 13Wildlife 13History 14Tawarau tramping tracks 15Whareorino tramping tracks 17Whareorino accommodation 19Hunting and fishing 20About DOC 21Further informationBack coverThe Waitomo and King Country region is a magical place.Sculptured limestone outcrops, gorges and natural bridgesemerge through lush, green native forest, while underground,a world of ancient limestone formations and cave networks arehome to glowworms, subterranean rivers and waterfalls. Thisbooklet describes the walking and tramping tracks managedby the Department of Conservation (DOC) where you canexperience this unique limestone landscape—from the easywalks around Waitomo to the longer tramping tracks in theTawarau and Whareorino Forests.Getting thereWaitomo is just under 1 hour’s drive from Hamilton via StateHighway 3; it is 3 hours from Auckland, New Plymouth, Rotoruaand Taupo.The map below shows the location of some tracks. For walksaround Waitomo, refer to the map on pp. 6–7; for Tawarautramping tracks, refer to the map on p. 16; and for Whareorinotramping tracks, refer to the map on p. 18.Please note: The maps in this booklet are suitable for planningpurposes and navigating short walks only.Location guide and map indexTawarau TracksParataniwha.Photo: DOC.Cover photo: Double Falls Gorge, Tawarau Forest. Photo: Matt Brady1

The King CountryLimestone landscapeThe region’s distinctive limestone landscape began itsdevelopment 20–25 million years ago when the area wasjust below sea level. Shell fragments, coral and skeletons ofmany different sea creatures were buried on the sea floor, andgradually compacted and cemented together over time toproduce the layers of sedimentary rock known as limestone.12 million years ago, prolonged earth movements graduallyforced the limestone from beneath the sea, exposing it to thepower of rain. Limestone is soluble in rainwater—as rain falls onthe ground, the carbon dioxide in the soil turns rainwater intoa weak acid (carbonic acid). The percolating water corrodes thelimestone beneath the soil surface, eating its way through tinyfractures and cracks and slowly enlarging them by dissolvingthe rock. The peculiar landscape we admire today—the dolines(enclosed depressions), karren (fluted outcrops), arches,tunnels and caves—is collectively known as karst.SpeleothemsThe delicate and beautiful cave formations or speleothemsdevelop where water deposits calcite (calcium carbonate).These include stalagmites (which grow up from the cavefloor) and stalactites (which grow from the roof down), aswell as fragile straws and other unusual formations. Theirrate of growth varies, but is always slow. Speleothems areirreplaceable, so please take care not to damage theseprecious features.2Straw formations.Photo: DOC.Centred on Te Kuiti and the surrounding King Country,Ngāti Maniapoto iwi is part of the Tainui confederation, andmembers trace their whakapapa (genealogy) back to the arrivalof the Tainui waka (canoe), which landed at Kawhia some700 years ago.Early settlements were generally small and concentratedaround the coastal harbours and fertile river valleys where foodwas most plentiful. While important routes into the interiorexisted, the rugged hill country in between remained relativelyunsettled.Ngāti Maniapoto supported the King movement (orKīngitanga), which developed in the 1850s out of growingconcern over sale of Māori land. In the following decade, theysupported Māori fighting British troops in Taranaki and, underRewi Maniapoto, continued to resist the loss of land and tribalauthority when British forces advanced into the Waikato in1863–64. After the defence of Orakau in April 1864, a boundary/confiscation line (known as the aukati line) was establishedbetween Cambridge and Kihikihi. The area to the south becameknown as ‘Rohe Pōtae’ or the King Country—over which noEuropean could pass safely for almost 20 years.The King Country became a ‘state within a state’ and actedas a refuge for many Māori involved in the land wars. It wasnot until 1883, after successful negotiations between theGovernment and Maniapoto leaders, that the King Countrywas opened up to European settlement and access enabled theroute for the North Island main trunk railway to be surveyed.Opapaka Pā.Photo: DOC.3

Enjoying the outdoors safelyTracks are developed to different standards, catering for avariety of experiences. Choose the type of track that bestsuits the skills and abilities of your group. Be prepared forall types of weather and conditions with suitable clothingand equipment. Be sure to tell a friend or relative of yourintentions. Remember, safety is your responsibility.Track classificationShort walk: Well-formed, easy walking for up toan hour. There may be steps or slopes. Suitable forpeople of most ages and fitness levels. Walking shoesrequired.Walking track: Easy to moderate walking from afew minutes to a day. Track is mostly well formed,but some sections may be steep, rough or muddy.Walking shoes or light tramping/hiking bootsrequired.Tramping track: Challenging day or multi-daytramping/hiking. Mostly unformed, and may berough and steep. Suitable for fit, experienced andadequately equipped people. Expect stream and rivercrossings. Tramping/hiking boots required.Track markersOn public conservation land, several types of plastic trianglesmay be attached to trees beside the track. Walkers shouldfollow only the orange triangles. Other colours (e.g. pink oryellow) are for conservation management purposes (such aspossum control lines) and should not be followed.River crossingsIn the Tawarau and Whareorino Forests there are a number ofunbridged river crossings. Streams and rivers can rise rapidlyin times of heavy rain and become impassable. Check theweather forecast before you leave and have someone in yourgroup who knows how to safely cross a river.Dogs owners—please noteDogs are not permitted on the tracks described in thisbrochure because of the threat they pose to stock and wildlife.Exceptions include certified guide dogs and permittedhunting dogs.Walkers in Waitomo area.Photo: DOC.Please remember• Dress for the weather and be prepared for it to change.• Stay on the track and remain behind any barriers.• Some walks cross private land and are open to thepublic thanks to the goodwill of the landowner. Pleaserespect their property, keep to the track and avoiddisturbing animals.• Take a torch if you are going into caves or alongwalking tracks at night to see glowworms.• Fill up your vehicle with fuel at Otorohanga, Piopio orTe Kuiti—there are no service stations from Waitomo west.Essential gearYou need to be well prepared when walking or tramping in theoutdoors, especially on longer tracks. Have strong, comfortableshoes (or boots if tramping), warm clothing, a good raincoat,first aid kit, food and drink, a hat, and sunscreen.45

Walks around WaitomoAll track times are one way unless otherwise stated.1Opapaka Pā Walk (20 min, 1 km)Turn right into the Waitomo Adventure Centre car park, 7 kmfrom the Waitomo turnoff. This walk takes you up throughnative forest to a fence line, with plant identification labels alongthe way. Cross a stile onto farmland and then up a steep track tothe pā site. Keep to the fence line and be mindful of stock thatmay be in the paddock. The farm track may be slippery if wet.The pā was occupied by Ngāti Hia in the 1700s, and was the siteof a notable battle between Ngāti Hia and a war party led byTanetinorau. Defence structures (trenches) and kūmara pits areevident at the pā site.2Waitomo Walkway (1 hr 15 min, 3.3 km)Take a walk through classic limestone country where sculptedrocks, fluted outcrops and gorges are a natural and fascinatingpart of the landscape. The walkway is an easy grade except forsome short steep parts. It starts in Waitomo Village (oppositethe Discovery Centre) and passes up through bush and acrossfarmland before crossing the Te Anga Road beyond theWaitomo Glowworm Caves. From here, it follows the WaitomoStream through a mix of shady forest and open farmland toRuakuri Scenic Reserve (see ).4There are a number of sections along this track where you crossonto private land. Follow marker posts and use stiles whereprovided. Be aware of electric fences. The Waitomo Walkwaycan be prone to flooding in times of heavy rain. Along the banksof the Waitomo Stream you will see a major replanting projectundertaken by the community, DOC and Environment Waikatoto improve water quality and reduce the effect of erosion.3Waitomo Caves car park Walk (5 min, 0.5 km)An easy, pushchair-friendly walk that starts as part of WaitomoWalkway and then continues left along the banks of theWaitomo Stream to the Waitomo Glowworm Caves car park.4Ruakuri Caves and Bush Scenic ReserveFor both historical significance and sheer beauty, this stop is amust. 1 km from Waitomo Village, turn left at the roundaboutinto Tumutumu Road; the entrance to the reserve is 2 km alongon the right. Ruakuri Caves and Bush Scenic Reserve containsclassic limestone outcrops, caves, tunnels and beautiful forestwhere you may hear tūī and the screech of the New Zealandfalcon. The car park and large picnic area is the startingpoint for the Ruakuri walk and the end point for the WaitomoWalkway. The picnic area has two electric BBQs—a $1 coingives you 25 min of BBQ-ing pleasure.Tūī. Photo: Danica Devery-Smith.67

4Ruakuri Walk (45 min return, 1 km)A real highlight of the Waitomo area, this spectacular loopwalk takes you through a forested gorge, past natural sculptedcliffs and under low limestone arches. The track follows thestream and then winds up around a network of limestone bluffsand outcrops before descending down to the Ruakuri NaturalBridge viewing platform.The entrance to the viewing platform is dark, so take carewhen walking down the steps. The platform extends out overa large cavernous tunnel where you can see large speleothems(stalactites and stalagmites) and a stream running alongthe bottom.Glowworms illuminatethe banks of the trackat night. The best placeto see them is at eitherside of the main bridge,but please don’t touchas this will destroythem. Be sure to takea torch to help younegotiate the steps androcky outcrops. Whilethe walk is only 45 minreturn, allow yourselfmore time to take in itsmany special features.Ruakuri means ‘Den of Dogs’and was named by the chiefTanetinorau who was travellingthrough the area when oneof his party was attacked bywild kurī (Polynesians dogs)defending their den. The area isof much spiritual and culturalsignificance to Māori.Interpretative signage explainssome of the historical, cultural,geological and conservationfeatures of this area.The Waitomo scenic driveFrom Waitomo village, this 46-km scenic drive takes youthrough karst country to the historic west coast settlement ofMarokopa, with Kiritehere Beach a further 5 km south down thecoast. Along the way there are a number of short walks whereyou can explore caves, waterfalls, gorges and natural bridges,and if you look carefully in some of the rocks on these walks youwill find marine fossils that are millions of years old. You cantake in panoramic views of the King Country, and on a clear daysee Mt Tongariro and Mt Ruapehu. Allow a whole day to take inthe many special features on this drive.5Mangapohue Natural Bridge (20-min loop,0.7 km)Mangapohue Natural Bridge is a real highlight on the scenicdrive to Marokopa. It is 25 km from Waitomo Village. The5-min track to the left is pushchair-friendly and follows aboardwalk through an impressive limestone gorge that bringsyou underneath the natural bridge.The 17-m-high limestone arch, which spans the MangapohueStream, is all that remains of an ancient cave system. From herethe track becomes stepped and passes under the bridge, giving asuperb view of the ceiling studded with stalactite-like formationsand an excellent view back down the gorge. The track continuesfor about 15 min over farmland. Follow the marker posts aroundto the right and up the hill where you can see 25 million year oldfossilised oysters exposed in the limestone outcrops.Follow the marker posts until you cross a stile backinto the reserve to head back to the car park.6Piripiri Cave (5 min, 0.3 km)4 km on from Mangapohue NaturalBridge is the Piripiri Cave. A short walktakes you up through native bush andpast some limestone outcrops, and thendescends down to the cave entrance andviewing platform.8Circle: Looking at oysterfossils. Photo: DOC.Left: Ruakuri Bushwalk.Photo: DOC.7Marokopa Falls (10 min, 0.3 km)2 km on from Piripiri Cave, these 35 m high fallsare often described as the most beautiful in the country.Here the Marokopa River cascades over the undercut greywackebasement rock. Take the short walk through tawa and nīkau forestdown to the viewing platform. Don’t forget your camera.9

Marokopa15 km on from Marokopa Falls, you reach the coast andMarokopa village. Like many west coast beaches, this area ispopular for fishing (especially for kahawai when they swarminto the mouth of the river between January and May),whitebaiting, swimming and boating.Marokopa has a quiet, timeless feel, but its history is far fromtame. In the 1820s, the great chief Te Rauparaha headed southto Kapiti with 1500 Ngāti Toa people, realising they had toleave Te Arawa to avoid defeat at the hands of rival tribes. Onthe journey, Te Rauparaha stayed briefly at Marokopa andsome say it is here that his pregnant wife Te Akau gave birth totheir son Katu.Waikawau tunnel.Photo: DOC.In later years, Marokopadeveloped into a thrivingtownship where bushmenand roadworkersconverged to pick upsupplies. For many years,the King Country was, inlaw at least, a ‘dry’ area. ButMarokopa’s harbour accessencouraged a profitablebootlegging business andthe town’s two whiskyshops did a roaring trade.Marokopa Motor Camphas a basic shop, tent sites,cabins and backpacker accommodation: phone 07 876 7444.There is no cellphone coverage at Marokopa.Kiritehere BeachKiritehere, over the hill south of Marokopa, typifies the ruggedcharacter and isolation of New Zealand’s west coast. Despiteits remoteness and difficult access, many surfers consider thebeach their best kept secret. At low tide you can see fossilisedclams, mussels and scallop-like Monotis in the rocks at thesouth end of the beach.From Kiritehere, you can travel on down the coast to Awakinoand Mokau or backtrack towards Te Kuiti. If continuing south,stop at Waikawau, where a tunnel cut into the cliffs for theflax trade now provides access to this beautifully rugged andisolated beach.10Other walking tracksIf you have some extra time to spend in the King Country, tryout these short, easy-access walking tracks. Refer to the mapon p. 1 for the location of these tracks.8Te Raumauku Caves Walk (20 min return, 0.5 km)At the south end of Otorohanga turn west on to SH31.4 km along, turn left on to Honokiwi Road and at the top of thehill turn left onto Te Raumauku Road. Travel along the road for5 km until you see the track entrance and car park on yourright. This loop track descends down steep steps and throughnīkau forest and parataniwha undergrowth to a small cave andstream, before winding back up to the road. Look out for thegrove of king fern. When the track emerges at the road, turnleft and walk about 3 minutes back to your car.9Mangaotaki Walk(30-min loop, 0.8 km)Travel south from Te Kuiti onSH3 until you reach Piopioand turn right onto KeaSt. After 1 km turn leftinto Mangaotaki Rd.The MangaotakiTrack is about 8 kmalong this road. Thecar park and trackentrance are on theleft immediatelyafter the MangaotakiBridge. This gentleloop track winds its wayover tree roots and passesmany boulders along theway, as well as a gnarly old treeand towering kahikatea laden withepiphytes (plants that grow on other plants).10Waitanguru Falls Walk (15 min return, 0.2 km)Waitanguru Falls.Photo: DOC.The Waitanguru Falls are a further 11 km along from theMangaotaki Track. The car park and track entrance are onthe right.A well-graded, stepped track takes you down to a viewingplatform that looks out to this magnificent tiered waterfall.11

11Omaru Falls Walk (30 min, 1.7 km)12 km south of Te Kuiti, turn left at the Taumarunui / NationalPark junction on to SH4. The Omaru Road and Falls turnoff is19 km on the right-hand side and is clearly signposted. Crossthe stile and follow a farm track for a few hundred metres.After crossing another stile, the track enters bush filled withferns and young rimu, and follows a stream before crossing aswing bridge and reentering farmland.Follow the grassy track and orangemarkers. There is an idealpicnic spot next to the riverand a small terracedwaterfall. Continue upthe grassy track to thefalls lookout.The falls drop about45 m and are mostimpressive afterheavy rain.Omaru Falls.Photo: DOC.Right: Kōkako.Photo: Tamsin Ward-Smith.Mapara Wildlife Reserve12Mapara Track (1 hr return, 2.5 km)The Mapara Wildlife Reserve and Track is about 35 kmsoutheast of Te Kuiti. Turn on to Kopaki Road from either SH4or SH30 and then turn down Mapara South Road to the smallkiosk at the reserve entrance. Park on the side of the road, crossthe swingbridge and take the steep loop track to the right.A very successful kōkako recovery project started in the reservein 1989 and has been the model for many other conservationprojects around the country. The best time to hear theextraordinary call of the kōkako is at dawn and dusk; however,if you are patient you may hear and see them during the day.Take a pair of binoculars.12Tawarau and Whareorino ForestsTawarau and Whareorino Forests are two large, adjoiningtracts of forests in the Waitomo area. The various trackentrances are about a 1.5- hr drive from Hamilton.Tawarau Forest is west of the Waitomo Caves and is one of thebest remaining examples of a virgin forest growing in a karst(limestone) landscape. It is approximately 34 km from Waitomoto Speedies Rd and 38 km from Waitomo to Were Rd.Tawarau Forest is dominated by tawa, hīnau, kāmahi andrewarewa, and emerging podocarps such as rimu and miro. It isknown for its ‘cool climate’ vegetation, with Cordyline indivisa(mountain cabbage tree) growing at an unusually low altitude.Whareorino Forest lies 30 km southwest of Te Kuiti and is thelargest and one of the most significant forested areas in thewestern King Country. It is dominated by the Herangi Range.Whareorino features tawa, hīnau, kāmahi and rewarewa, as wellas podocarps, and is particularly special because of its rangeof vegetation, from coastal and lowland vegetation types tosubalpine and alpine. Its proximity to the west coast providesan unusually cold and moist climate. At the top of the HerangiRange, 600–800 m above sea level, the ridges are covered inlow scrub and kaikawaka, along with neinei, pepperwood andshrubs interspersed with areas of cushion bog. This vegetationis subalpine and uncommon in the King Country.WildlifeBoth forests are home to a variety of New Zealand birds,including falcon, grey warbler, tomtit, kererū/kūkū, rifleman,bellbird, whitehead and, in summer, long-tailed cuckoo. Therehave also been occasional sightings of kākā, kiwi and kōkako.Long-tailed bats frequent both areas and you may see themfeeding at dusk around the macrocarpa trees at Leitch’s Hut inthe Whareorino Forest.Bellbird on flax.Photo: Andrew Walmsley.13

Whareorino tramping tracks16Leitch’s Track (3 hr to hut)Access to Leitch’s Track is off Leitch Road via MangaotakiRoad (turn westwards at Piopio). From the car park at the endof Leitch Road, the track enters Whareorino Forest. A formersurveyed road, this popular and clearly marked track is wellgraded and the shortest route to Leitch’s Hut.17Mahoenui Track (3 hr to hut)This pleasant track follows the Awakino River from Barker’sfarm on Gribbon Road (please phone owners for access andparking permission first—07 877 8746) upstream to Leitch’sHut. (Gribbon Road is on the right, 22 km south of Piopio offSH3.) Follow the river north to the junction with the WaikawauTrack. Cross to the east bank of the Awakino and walk northfor 5 min to the hut. During winter and periods of heavy rain,the river may be too deep to cross. Check the weather forecastbefore walking this track.15Gorge Track (3 hr 30 min)This track follows Mangaohae Stream until it flows througha spectacular limestone gorge and enters the TawarauRiver. You can access this track from either Were Road orSpeedies Road. Both start by crossing farmland, so pleasefollow the markers and be mindful and respectful of stock.From Were Road end, the Tawarau / Double Falls Trackbranches off the Gorge Track across a swingbridge, afterapproximately 2 hrs. The main track continues down theriver to Speedies Road. The track can be muddy, so comeprepared. The Tawarau / Double Falls track junction isabout 1 hr 30 min from Speedies Road end. Blackberry Flat(500 m north of the Tawarau / Double Falls Track junction)is a good campsite, and there are several other attractivecamping sites in the forest. The Gorge Track was onceknown as the Kawhia to Mahoenui highway.Double Falls Gorge.Photo: Adrienne Grant.1617

Leitch's Hut. Photo: DOC.Whareorino accommodation18Waikawau Track (7 hr to hut)Turn into Crawford Road off Manganui Road. Park on thenorthern side of the Waikawau River on Maxwell’s farm(phone the owners for permission first—06 752 9891). Followthe markers along the Waikawau and Mangapa Rivers. This isa gradual climb with several river crossings. Continue up theWaikawau Saddle and then descend to Leitch’s Clearing. Followthe clearing down to the Awakino River, cross the river andwalk north along it for 5 min to Leitch’s Hut. During winter andperiods of heavy rain, the river may be too deep to cross. Pleasecheck the weather forecast before walking this track.19Mangatoa Track (4 hr to hut)From the car park on the Mangatoa Road saddle, walk alongthe gradually climbing track until you reach the Herangi Ridge.The track veers right and drops down past the Waikawau Trackjunction before taking you to Leitch’s Hut.Leitch’s Hut is available for overnight use. It is a StandardHut and sleeps 16 people. Mattresses, a wood-burning stovefor heating and a toilet are provided. You will need to carry aportable stove for cooking.Fees are charged per person per night—see www.doc.govt.nz/huts. Please purchase your tickets before your trip from DOCoffices or retailers displaying the ‘Backcountry Huts’ sign.Paying fees helps keep huts available for public use.There are many areas suitable for camping in Leitch’s Clearing.If you want to camp and use the hut facilities, you still need topurchase a hut ticket.Camping inLeitch’s Clearing.Photo: DOC.Kererū/kūkū.Photo: JohnGardiner.1819

About DOCDOC is responsible for conserving New Zealand’s natural andhistoric heritage on behalf of, and for the benefit of presentand future New Zealanders. Here in the Waitomo and KingCountry region (the Maniapoto Area), as in other parts ofthe country, DOC manages threatened species, minimisesbiosecurity risks, restores and protects historic and culturalsites on public conservation land, and promotes appropriaterecreational use and enjoyment of protected places. Whereverpossible, these functions are carried out in partnership with thecommunity and tangata whenua.Another large area of conservation land in the ManiapotoArea managed by DOC is Pureora Forest Park. The park offersopportunities for tramping, camping, mountain-biking, andhunting. For further information see www.doc.govt.nz.Fishing in theMangaohae Stream.Photo: DOC.Hunting and fishingRecreational hunting is a popular pastime in both Tawarau andWhareorino Forests. Tawarau has a moderate number of goats,and low numbers of pigs and deer. Whareorino has moderatenumbers of goats and pigs, and low numbers of deer. DOCundertakes goat control in both forests.You need a permit to carry a rifle or hunting bow, or to takea hunting dog onto conservation land. Permits and furtherinformation can be obtained from the DOC ManiapotoArea Office in Te Kuiti, Pureora Field Base or the WaikatoConservancy Office in Hamilton. Alternatively, you can obtaina permit online at www.doc.govt.nz/hunting.The Awakino River is popular for brown and rainbow troutfishing. It is closed for winter fishing and only fly fishing ispermitted above the SH3 bridge at Mahoenui. Rainbow troutare present in the Tawarau River and Mangaohae Stream (thesewaterways are also closed for winter fishing). All trout fishingrequires a licence, which can be obtained from the Auckland/Waikato Fish and Game Council and most sports shops.20Glowworm snares.Photo: DOC.Waitomo Caves Discovery CentreIn Waitomo village, the WaitomoCaves Discovery Centre includesthe official Visitor InformationCentre and is a good first port ofcall for finding out about the varietyof tours and activities available inWaitomo. The museum containsinteresting interactive displays andinformation about limestone caves,and includes an excellent filmabout the life of Waitomo’s mostfamous resident—the glowworm.• Protect plants and animals• Remove all rubbish• Keep streams and lakes clean• Camp with care• Please bury toilet waste• Keep to the track• Consider others• Respect cultural heritage• Enjoy your visitToitū to whenua Leave the land undisturbed21